Looks like a very nice & clean install, I had 10kw of solar installed with 2 x 5 kw inverters to cover a Skillion roof over our main kitchen, dining & family area and get about 65kw/day presently in sunny Queensland, Australia, a huge bonus for us is that it shades this roof area and has reduced the internal room temperature on hot days enormously and we can feel & see a 5C-7C temp change either side of our back door. Cheers
That is one nice advantage of solar panels on the roof. They act as shade and reduce the solar load on the building. This has the added advantage of reducing AC power requirements. Thanks for giving some real world numbers for people to understand the impact.
Excellent presentation, Dave. Concise, to the point, with a very clearly outlined installation procedure, so anyone with a reasonable level, of DIY competency, could achieve a similar outcome. It won't be the last video, of yours, I watch. Thanks.
This is a diabolical Installations no respect for Heat and safety. If anyone is injured the insurance companies would not pay out.There should be guard rails on the roof and a scaffolding to work from.plus they are also required to wear safety harness
i was thinking the same, particularly with the open overhangs left on the ends. i'm sure the plastic caps are not really a seal, but ideally a few small holes along the way would be beneficial i think. until leaves and crud clog them anyhow.
The part you forgot was to get a utility inspection. You cannot activate grid tie solar without the utiliy's permission. Other than that, this is the best explanation I've ever seen for grid tie solar installation.
I find it hilarious that the professional was the only person wearing the proper FALL protection. Kids were up there on the pitch of the roof with nothing but tennis shoes and play clothes. I think that you should stress safety first when doing a job. I enjoyed the video. Accidents happen in a split second.
Hey, I just wanted to say "Thank you" for your incredibly detailed videos. I'm going through a bit of "analysis paralysis" at the moment, but it's awesome seeing your different installs, and the reasoning behind why you used one product over the other.
I can relate. When I was planning for my original install I was overwhelmed with all the options. At some point I decided to just move forward with something I was confident would work. Looking back, as you have seen in my videos, I could have done lots of things better, however, it was still worth it. To find the actual perfect solution would take more analysis than is practical. Good luck!
Excellent video. Appreciate your references to the code. Might add that the code requires a minimum of six inches of wire tail at junction boxes. Keep up the good work.👍
Thank you very much for including a detailed parts list! Looks like 10k for key compoments + a couple thousand for quality tools and extras like conduit. I need a 9kw system on my shingle roof in Arizona. Thanks again.
@@ProjectsWithDave I am having my asphalt shingle, vented roof replaced. Is there anything I can ask the roofers to do to make my DIY solar install easier after they are done? Thanks
Very good, detailed instructions. My utility requires a second meter (a solar production meter and the original revenue meter) so I am at a standstill trying to figure out who can install that and what it will cost.
Great insight shared; however, it's crucial to emphasize the importance of safety measures by ensuring that children are not allowed access to the roof or top, fostering a secure environment for everyone involved.
But you do have to admit that the savings kids can give you on project costs are CRAZY. 💵💵 For a couple of candy bars they'll work all day! If you let them use the power tools, you can even skip the pop tarts! Harness 'em up and turn 'em loose! *Note to the Secretary of the US Dept of Labor: No child labor was used in the composition of this parody. 😊
This panel can put out close to 100 watts th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
Also the International Building Code says that there needs to be 36 inches of walkway on both ends of the panels for fire fighters to access the roof (from gutter to the peak).
Thank you Maypower2029- great work . I have seen the same saving over the past few months we have had solar panels on our roof which you helped me install when i was recommended by you on the comment section (43 panels). Last year we had $300 in electricity bills - that's it! Maypower2029 is great!
Awesome. It looks like that main disconnect turns off the house and also the shop. Some might think that's overkill but in the end it will disconnect the PV power supply which is what the inspector is looking for. I might do the same setup for my shop pv system. Minus the optimizers is what I'm leaning towards right now.
Why the Power Optimizers; Dave is very detailed and has done the calc on ROI (Lifeitme $/kWh generated with & without PO) so there must be a reason. I didn't see any shading concerns on this shed.
Three reasons. 1). The panels are used, so they don't all have the same output. A low performing panel would reduce the whole string. 2). There is significant shading from nearby trees that sweeps across in the morning and afternoon. 3). It's on a roof so there has to be module level shutdown anyway.
Thanks! Sagging is probably the biggest concern in climates where there is snow that could snag the wires when it slides down the roof. Otherwise, the risk is, having the wire wear through the insulation and short against the roof at some point.
0606’24/1901h 🇺🇸 Roof assembly of PV panels looks neat and tidy. Thank you. Terminating cables could use ferrules thus avoiding Copper strands spreading and or injuring (breaking off) from the contact. Use of synthetic grease at all joints highly advised, avoiding future formation of Cu sulfation at the outdoor moisture areas.
Why use a lock nut on top when the nut underneath the L bracket is plain ? I'd either add some thread locker to the lower nut or replace it with a lock nut
I'm trying to figure out which wires to you for the back of the solar panel. Because there's wires that actually be sottering on those Pacific wires I'm looking for.
Thank you Dave for the detail installation of the panels for DYI, I don't recommend anyone scanning the Energy Pal Code unless you want to be over charge with a design for your home?
Please give some detail on your experience with EnergyPal. All the customers I talked to have had a positive experience. I only want to recommend high value resources for people. Thanks!
A couple of suggestions, especially for the diy'er and maintenance of the system. Especially with SanTan Solar panels and equipment, which are generally not manufacturer warranted, but with only a one year SanTan warranty. Is One, to go with one less panel per string giving more room on the sides, and Two, giving at least 18" between each horizontal string so you don't have to disassemble as much when components fail, much easier maintenance. With a dark metal roof, questionable solar panels and optimizers, all these will cook in the summer! I will be very surprised if you don't have at least ten failures over the next ten years. You should make it so you can just Easily and Safely get to that one panel or component/ optimizer and replace it yourself, without disassembling most of the system, in some cases, to diagnose and or repair!?
interestingly enough, a (especially shiny, not matte/dull finish) black metal roof actually expels heat better than an asphalt roof, but yes, there could be more "heat soak", and a of a loss in production/efficiency from the panels due to that, it will be better than an asphalt shingle roof which absorbs, holds and convects, provided the air flow around the panels is maintained.
What jumps out is a very common costly mistake - butting up two rows of panels flush. Looks neat, but it's simply......wrong! Even in Ohio, it gets fairly toasty in the summer, solar panels don't like heat, so ventilation is paramount. Leave a two inch gap for ventilation and get another 5% free output, extend the life of the panels to boot.
I'm sure a wider gap between rows would be helpful in this configuration and would have been easy to apply. However, I'm thinking that would complicate snow shedding. The snow would start to fill the gap and back up on the top row, possibly causing some structural loading issues.
Might I suggest adding FERRULES to your Stranded Wires / Cables in your junction BOX before clamping them into your DIN Rail connectors / terminals ? ...
While not necessary, they do make for a nice clean connection. I've been using them more and more lately. I like to use them for anything 10 AWG and below. This is the set I'm using now: amzn.to/3Jr3Pe8
If I recall correctly, I just picked it up at Lowes or one of the other big box stores. Did I give the dimensions for the box? Two inches seems shallow, you just need something to fit under the panels. You should have more than 2" to work with for the depth.
There is shade in the morning and afternoon that creeps across the roof. Also the panels are used so the output varies quite a bit from panel to panel.
Let me start by saying I am impressed with your dedication to answering comments. You have some great informative videos, thank you for sharing. Have you had any experience with snapNrack solar panel mounting system?
Thanks for the feedback! I have not tried the SnapNrack system. I see some pro's and cons at first glance. It could be cheaper since you don't have cross rails, although those mounts look very expensive. It looks challenging to set the second row of panels by wedging them under an already secured clamp, I'm not sure how well that would work without trying it. Probably my biggest issue with the system is the lack of flexibility to change the panels later. With a rail system if you upgrade the panels later you can adjust the pitch with no issue, with this system, all the mounts are fixt in place to match the exact size of your original panels. Also, you have a lot more holes in your roof. It's an interesting concept though.
How well does the K2 racking System holdup to severe weather conditions such as 150+ MPH winds and tornadoes ? Simply screwing into the roof tin does not seem sound enough ! The long bolt variation into the wood purlins appears to be a better solution... but begs the question: Does that system create an airfoil 'wing' that might increase aerodynamic lift, helping to pull the roof off in a hgh wind condition ? What do the engineers ( P. Eng.) say ?
The system as installed is certified for 90+ MPH winds. You can substantially increase the wind capacity by reducing the spacing between bolts if desired or required for the wind loads in your region.
22:30 Plus and minus terminals are awfully close. Arent there risk of HV DC arcing? Isnt better idea to use MC4 connectors inside that junction box? 13:55 Those clips look loose, arent there a risk that wind is going to move those wires and chew trough the isolation after 10 years and arc to frame?
The terminals are rated for much higher voltage than we are passing through them. I did some testing on these blocks, you can see the results in this video: th-cam.com/video/uS8cqppAy7s/w-d-xo.html The clips snap into the channel, and even though the set position is flexible, it is not easy to remove them.
You cant make loops with wires if you want maximal efficiency. They heat up due to induction. We had to rewire 400 panels due to same exact installation. In case something catches fire or melts you will not be able to cash the warranty. And warranty is 20 years on some plants. So be very careful not to loop any wires. It will be major pain in the ass in case something goes wrong.
Well, the intention was to focus on how to install on a roof. Also, K2 was kind enough to send support to make sure I was able to give you the best information possible. Hopefully it was still helpful for everyone. Thanks for the feedback.
Are you running each string all the way to the inverter and if so could you eliminate the junction box and just put a waterproof connector at the end of your conduit? Love your approach to this. I’ve watched several times because I’m putting up a similar array in the next few weeks.
Yes they are home runs to the inverter. At one point the inverter was going to be mounted closer to the string end point and I was going to make it one unbroken home run without a junction box just as you suggested. Less chance for failure. However, the longer run was easier to do with a junction box.
Hi Dave - I have seen many projects where the racking is drilled into the sheathing irrespective of whether there is a rafter or a purlin. is this wrong?
This metal roof has not sheathing under it so each fastener had to hit a purlin. In my experience, most mounting systems require hitting a structural member. I suppose it would be possible to attach to the sheathing if you had enough attachment points, but it would require significantly more which would be cost prohibitive. I guess the short answer is; I would attach to structure.
Awesome video Dave! Relatively short and concise. You guys make it look super easy. Used Iron Ridge previously but will look into the K2 system on the next install. Curious, how long did it take to install from start to finish?
Thanks! It's not an accurate assessment because it takes significantly more time to video every step. We installed all the racking and optimizers on the first day, all the solar panels on the next day, then it took about a day to do the inverter, wiring and final panels.
Is it possible to hook up 2kw of solar panels to assist a (4kw) HVAC system connected to the grid still? That way the solar panels will partially supply the electricity and lower the electricity bill? Thanks in advance.
You can install a system like the one in this video that simply offsets any power usage. There are also heat pump systems out there that can run directly from solar like this one: signaturesolar.com/eg4-hybrid-solar-mini-split-kit-energy-star-certified-air-conditioner-heat-pump-ac-dc-12000-btu-seer2-22-1800-watts-of-solar-pv-kit-e0011/?ref=SALE
clear installation details, what i cant understand is that in the beginning of the video you give safety-instructions about using a gear to work on a roof and then there are two kids on the roof without any protection. ont of them is stepping backward to the top of the roof without looking back and almost getting to the point of tripping over the nok
k2 systems installer can you tell me more about the final adjustments you made to meet the panels to the roof? what tool do you recommend for the installer to locate the rafter affectively
With the 120% rule, I see the 40 amp breaker for the pv input but I’m a bit confused. Where is the 200 amp breaker and could you please elaborate when you say “generally 40 for PV and 200amp for Input” what is that input to which you are referring? I assumed if your panel max is 240amps you would put about a 200 amp double breaker?
It's an interesting video. But I don't understand the feasibility of placing a solar station on this roof, even with optimizers. What is striking is the constant shading. What losses from shading are predicted?
Hi, love your videos! I noticed you used PVC conduit inside. However, I thought metal conduit is needed inside. Is this allowed because of the optimizers and automatic shut down with the inverter?
Thanks for the encouragement. I'm a mechanical engineer not an electrician, maybe there's an electrician out there that has some insight on your expectation for needing to use metal conduit. All the installations I have done and had inspected used PVC inside and out with no issues.
This is the BEST presentation that shows the actual DIY installation & the hardware and every bit and piece of the system.
TY to all who did the job.
I second this sentiment. Great video! Excellent amount of detail without the fluff. Thank you Dave!
I was recently quoted $47k for a system, so needless to say I'm here to learn how to DIY it! LoL Thanks for the solid instruction.
You can do it!
Looks like a very nice & clean install, I had 10kw of solar installed with 2 x 5 kw inverters to cover a Skillion roof over our main kitchen, dining & family area and get about 65kw/day presently in sunny Queensland, Australia, a huge bonus for us is that it shades this roof area and has reduced the internal room temperature on hot days enormously and we can feel & see a 5C-7C temp change either side of our back door. Cheers
That is one nice advantage of solar panels on the roof. They act as shade and reduce the solar load on the building. This has the added advantage of reducing AC power requirements. Thanks for giving some real world numbers for people to understand the impact.
I have been watching a lot of Solar install videos and yours is by far the best and most detailed complete install video I have seen, thanks.
I appreciate the thought involving kids as they are exposed to multiple things other than academics.
Best solar videos on the web. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Wow, thanks!
love every detail in the video . glad you include ur kid to join this project
Excellent presentation, Dave. Concise, to the point, with a very clearly outlined installation procedure, so anyone with a reasonable level, of DIY competency, could achieve a similar outcome.
It won't be the last video, of yours, I watch. Thanks.
This is a diabolical Installations no respect for Heat and safety. If anyone is injured the insurance companies would not pay out.There should be guard rails on the roof and a scaffolding to work from.plus they are also required to wear safety harness
great work, they should add holes on the rails so that the water doesn't accumulate
i was thinking the same, particularly with the open overhangs left on the ends. i'm sure the plastic caps are not really a seal, but ideally a few small holes along the way would be beneficial i think. until leaves and crud clog them anyhow.
The part you forgot was to get a utility inspection. You cannot activate grid tie solar without the utiliy's permission. Other than that, this is the best explanation I've ever seen for grid tie solar installation.
Thanks for pointing that out. We had the utility inspection and approval, it just wasn't included in the video.
I'm beyond excited as I've been creating my own diy system and been binging your videos!
I like the way solar panels are installed so much.
I find it hilarious that the professional was the only person wearing the proper FALL protection. Kids were up there on the pitch of the roof with nothing but tennis shoes and play clothes. I think that you should stress safety first when doing a job. I enjoyed the video. Accidents happen in a split second.
A very nice illustration. I definitely learned a lot by your video. In the K2 is the way to go
Hey, I just wanted to say "Thank you" for your incredibly detailed videos. I'm going through a bit of "analysis paralysis" at the moment, but it's awesome seeing your different installs, and the reasoning behind why you used one product over the other.
I can relate. When I was planning for my original install I was overwhelmed with all the options. At some point I decided to just move forward with something I was confident would work. Looking back, as you have seen in my videos, I could have done lots of things better, however, it was still worth it. To find the actual perfect solution would take more analysis than is practical. Good luck!
Excellent video. Appreciate your references to the code. Might add that the code requires a minimum of six inches of wire tail at junction boxes. Keep up the good work.👍
Thank you very much for including a detailed parts list! Looks like 10k for key compoments + a couple thousand for quality tools and extras like conduit. I need a 9kw system on my shingle roof in Arizona. Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful!
@@ProjectsWithDave I am having my asphalt shingle, vented roof replaced. Is there anything I can ask the roofers to do to make my DIY solar install easier after they are done? Thanks
I don't have any tips at this time. Maybe someone else has a suggestion for you.
@@Carter_MoodyYou might consider relocating vents / penetrations if that helps maximize your roof area available for panels.
hi dear friend, we are solar panels system factory, may i have your email or whatsapp please? More details will be sent accordingly.
Those EJOT bolts are amazing. Just received mine. Genius!
Dave you are one of the best youtubers I ever watched since it began ! Thanks so much !
Wow, thanks!
The kids were my favourite part. ❤❤❤❤❤
Another awesome video Dave. You make it look so easy.
You even stand like Crispin Glover in Back to the future!
a ladder lift is the better way you can even make your own, great job guys
A lift would be nice...
I love the racking system, it looks very easy to use.
I've used it on multiple installs now and I like it a lot. The components are interchangeable and well thought out.
Very good, detailed instructions. My utility requires a second meter (a solar production meter and the original revenue meter) so I am at a standstill trying to figure out who can install that and what it will cost.
Wow! Can you use the Inverter data collection system as the "second meter"?
I really needed to hear this thank you Lord for this teaching
Great insight shared; however, it's crucial to emphasize the importance of safety measures by ensuring that children are not allowed access to the roof or top, fostering a secure environment for everyone involved.
But you do have to admit that the savings kids can give you on project costs are CRAZY. 💵💵
For a couple of candy bars they'll work all day! If you let them use the power tools, you can even skip the pop tarts! Harness 'em up and turn 'em loose!
*Note to the Secretary of the US Dept of Labor: No child labor was used in the composition of this parody. 😊
Always becareful of a DC Ark between your terminals😁👍🏻 stay safe out there
This panel can put out close to 100 watts th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
Also the International Building Code says that there needs to be 36 inches of walkway on both ends of the panels for fire fighters to access the roof (from gutter to the peak).
Pretty awesome video! Congrats to your kids!!!! Good job!
1.13.23 Very good Dave. Thanks you for making this video.
Simple, complete and clear, much appreciated
Nice set-up! San Tan is awesome, that's where we got our panels and mounting rack.
the 120% rule is about the busbar in the panel, which for most 200A load centers is rated for 225A.
Thankyou for adding that clarification.
Wow, that's a lot of roof. Love it.🙃🙃
Best tutorial I've seen so far. Well done!
You can make a jig for the height of the rail off of the roof with a small block of wood.
Good idea.
Thank you Maypower2029- great work . I have seen the same saving over the past few months we have had solar panels on our roof which you helped me install when i was recommended by you on the comment section (43 panels). Last year we had $300 in electricity bills - that's it! Maypower2029 is great!
Amaizing presentation. Thank you.
such a detailed video . Hats off
Really well done how too thanks for putting this out there!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome. It looks like that main disconnect turns off the house and also the shop. Some might think that's overkill but in the end it will disconnect the PV power supply which is what the inspector is looking for. I might do the same setup for my shop pv system. Minus the optimizers is what I'm leaning towards right now.
This was a really nice video. Loved all the details.
Glad you enjoyed it!
How does that many 400w panels produce only 800w?
What am i missing?
Even if sun is low, that doesn't make any sense 🤔
beautiful system beautiful setup. Great explanation and please keep up the good work!!!!
Why the Power Optimizers; Dave is very detailed and has done the calc on ROI (Lifeitme $/kWh generated with & without PO) so there must be a reason. I didn't see any shading concerns on this shed.
Three reasons.
1). The panels are used, so they don't all have the same output. A low performing panel would reduce the whole string.
2). There is significant shading from nearby trees that sweeps across in the morning and afternoon.
3). It's on a roof so there has to be module level shutdown anyway.
Thanks Dave 🙏🏼
I like videos like this, let me join in learning, thank you and greetings from Indonesia
Thanks for watching!
Nice job dave thanks for sharing
Nice setup Dave. Now I worry about my wires sagging under the panels.
Thanks! Sagging is probably the biggest concern in climates where there is snow that could snag the wires when it slides down the roof. Otherwise, the risk is, having the wire wear through the insulation and short against the roof at some point.
0606’24/1901h 🇺🇸 Roof assembly of PV panels looks neat and tidy. Thank you. Terminating cables could use ferrules thus avoiding Copper strands spreading and or injuring (breaking off) from the contact. Use of synthetic grease at all joints highly advised, avoiding future formation of Cu sulfation at the outdoor moisture areas.
Thanks, I have started using ferrules on all my connections. They do greatly improve the connection integrity.
Why use a lock nut on top when the nut underneath the L bracket is plain ? I'd either add some thread locker to the lower nut or replace it with a lock nut
I'm trying to figure out which wires to you for the back of the solar panel. Because there's wires that actually be sottering on those Pacific wires I'm looking for.
Rock solid video. Title was not a lie.
Awesome video!! You regularly exceed my expectations!! 👍
BTW professionally made, very helpful videos and intruction and thanks for that!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Dave for the detail installation of the panels for DYI, I don't recommend anyone scanning the Energy Pal Code unless you want to be over charge with a design for your home?
Please give some detail on your experience with EnergyPal. All the customers I talked to have had a positive experience. I only want to recommend high value resources for people. Thanks!
Just use 6x L bracket for each panel screwed onto roof. Done. Easy, cheap, quick.
A couple of suggestions, especially for the diy'er and maintenance of the system. Especially with SanTan Solar panels and equipment, which are generally not manufacturer warranted, but with only a one year SanTan warranty. Is One, to go with one less panel per string giving more room on the sides, and Two, giving at least 18" between each horizontal string so you don't have to disassemble as much when components fail, much easier maintenance.
With a dark metal roof, questionable solar panels and optimizers, all these will cook in the summer! I will be very surprised if you don't have at least ten failures over the next ten years. You should make it so you can just Easily and Safely get to that one panel or component/ optimizer and replace it yourself, without disassembling most of the system, in some cases, to diagnose and or repair!?
Thanks for your suggestions.
interestingly enough, a (especially shiny, not matte/dull finish) black metal roof actually expels heat better than an asphalt roof, but yes, there could be more "heat soak", and a of a loss in production/efficiency from the panels due to that, it will be better than an asphalt shingle roof which absorbs, holds and convects, provided the air flow around the panels is maintained.
What jumps out is a very common costly mistake - butting up two rows of panels flush. Looks neat, but it's simply......wrong! Even in Ohio, it gets fairly toasty in the summer, solar panels don't like heat, so ventilation is paramount. Leave a two inch gap for ventilation and get another 5% free output, extend the life of the panels to boot.
I'm sure a wider gap between rows would be helpful in this configuration and would have been easy to apply. However, I'm thinking that would complicate snow shedding. The snow would start to fill the gap and back up on the top row, possibly causing some structural loading issues.
20% rule is to prevent maximum load it goes both ways. 200amp panel max is 160 both generation or use
Might I suggest adding FERRULES to your Stranded Wires / Cables in your junction BOX before clamping them into your DIN Rail connectors / terminals ?
...
While not necessary, they do make for a nice clean connection. I've been using them more and more lately. I like to use them for anything 10 AWG and below. This is the set I'm using now: amzn.to/3Jr3Pe8
Super Clean Installation
Thank you
Thanks a lot! how would instructions and materials change if they were installed on shingles?
Simply replace the EJOT roof bolt with a style designed for shingles. They come with a flashing for tucking under the shingles.
Great step by step presentation. I have 1 question: where did you get the 5 x 5 x 2 junction box? I have had no luck find one this size.
Thanks
If I recall correctly, I just picked it up at Lowes or one of the other big box stores. Did I give the dimensions for the box? Two inches seems shallow, you just need something to fit under the panels. You should have more than 2" to work with for the depth.
Very detailed video, thank you for sharing your god given knowledge brother, more projects to come 🙏
Thanks!
Great Project. Great Stuff Dave
the roof looks like it's pretty clear from tree shading. was the optimizer necessary?
There is shade in the morning and afternoon that creeps across the roof. Also the panels are used so the output varies quite a bit from panel to panel.
OK, Solar Edge optimizers are good, I didn't know that Sant Tan sold them?
They do not sell SolarEdge, these were purchased through Unbound Solar.
Let me start by saying I am impressed with your dedication to answering comments. You have some great informative videos, thank you for sharing. Have you had any experience with snapNrack solar panel mounting system?
Thanks for the feedback! I have not tried the SnapNrack system. I see some pro's and cons at first glance. It could be cheaper since you don't have cross rails, although those mounts look very expensive. It looks challenging to set the second row of panels by wedging them under an already secured clamp, I'm not sure how well that would work without trying it. Probably my biggest issue with the system is the lack of flexibility to change the panels later. With a rail system if you upgrade the panels later you can adjust the pitch with no issue, with this system, all the mounts are fixt in place to match the exact size of your original panels. Also, you have a lot more holes in your roof. It's an interesting concept though.
Love the mold on the north side of your house
How well does the K2 racking System holdup to severe weather conditions such as 150+ MPH winds and tornadoes ?
Simply screwing into the roof tin does not seem sound enough !
The long bolt variation into the wood purlins appears to be a better solution... but begs the question: Does that system create an airfoil 'wing' that might increase aerodynamic lift, helping to pull the roof off in a hgh wind condition ?
What do the engineers ( P. Eng.) say ?
The system as installed is certified for 90+ MPH winds. You can substantially increase the wind capacity by reducing the spacing between bolts if desired or required for the wind loads in your region.
Great content as usual. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for posting.
22:30 Plus and minus terminals are awfully close. Arent there risk of HV DC arcing? Isnt better idea to use MC4 connectors inside that junction box?
13:55 Those clips look loose, arent there a risk that wind is going to move those wires and chew trough the isolation after 10 years and arc to frame?
The terminals are rated for much higher voltage than we are passing through them. I did some testing on these blocks, you can see the results in this video: th-cam.com/video/uS8cqppAy7s/w-d-xo.html
The clips snap into the channel, and even though the set position is flexible, it is not easy to remove them.
Anazing vedeo to do install solar Amazing I loved it thanks
You cant make loops with wires if you want maximal efficiency. They heat up due to induction. We had to rewire 400 panels due to same exact installation. In case something catches fire or melts you will not be able to cash the warranty. And warranty is 20 years on some plants. So be very careful not to loop any wires. It will be major pain in the ass in case something goes wrong.
Good video. Panels weigh about 50lbs each. Do you recall what the barn pole spacing and purlin size were for the roof? Thx
I believe it was 2'
would you connect the ground wire from the panel to the inverter that will get connected to ground wire in the main panel?
The inverter and the main panel are connected to the same ground rod.
Dave, this felt more like a K2 infomertial, 🤣
Well, the intention was to focus on how to install on a roof. Also, K2 was kind enough to send support to make sure I was able to give you the best information possible. Hopefully it was still helpful for everyone. Thanks for the feedback.
This was perfect for us, K2 solar students 😂😂😅😅😅😂🤣
but you have panels on top right? How come the water enters the rail trench and sinks the cable?
It is a great! Thank you.
I thought that code says all DC wiring from roof mounted solar systems shall be run through metal raceways?
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the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
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Are you running each string all the way to the inverter and if so could you eliminate the junction box and just put a waterproof connector at the end of your conduit? Love your approach to this. I’ve watched several times because I’m putting up a similar array in the next few weeks.
Yes they are home runs to the inverter. At one point the inverter was going to be mounted closer to the string end point and I was going to make it one unbroken home run without a junction box just as you suggested. Less chance for failure. However, the longer run was easier to do with a junction box.
Hi Dave - I have seen many projects where the racking is drilled into the sheathing irrespective of whether there is a rafter or a purlin. is this wrong?
This metal roof has not sheathing under it so each fastener had to hit a purlin. In my experience, most mounting systems require hitting a structural member. I suppose it would be possible to attach to the sheathing if you had enough attachment points, but it would require significantly more which would be cost prohibitive. I guess the short answer is; I would attach to structure.
Awesome video Dave! Relatively short and concise. You guys make it look super easy. Used Iron Ridge previously but will look into the K2 system on the next install. Curious, how long did it take to install from start to finish?
Thanks! It's not an accurate assessment because it takes significantly more time to video every step. We installed all the racking and optimizers on the first day, all the solar panels on the next day, then it took about a day to do the inverter, wiring and final panels.
Do you have a link for the DIN rail connector?
Is it possible to hook up 2kw of solar panels to assist a (4kw) HVAC system connected to the grid still? That way the solar panels will partially supply the electricity and lower the electricity bill? Thanks in advance.
You can install a system like the one in this video that simply offsets any power usage. There are also heat pump systems out there that can run directly from solar like this one: signaturesolar.com/eg4-hybrid-solar-mini-split-kit-energy-star-certified-air-conditioner-heat-pump-ac-dc-12000-btu-seer2-22-1800-watts-of-solar-pv-kit-e0011/?ref=SALE
clear installation details, what i cant understand is that in the beginning of the video you give safety-instructions about using a gear to work on a roof and then there are two kids on the roof without any protection. ont of them is stepping backward to the top of the roof without looking back and almost getting to the point of tripping over the nok
k2 systems installer can you tell me more about the final adjustments you made to meet the panels to the roof? what tool do you recommend for the installer to locate the rafter affectively
I am just curious and know nothing about power, but if you are back feeding the system, if there is power outage, can this back feed the power grid?
No, the system shuts down in a power outage. That is required by code.
With the 120% rule, I see the 40 amp breaker for the pv input but I’m a bit confused. Where is the 200 amp breaker and could you please elaborate when you say “generally 40 for PV and 200amp for Input” what is that input to which you are referring? I assumed if your panel max is 240amps you would put about a 200 amp double breaker?
There is no 200A breaker. The 40A breaker is for the 7.6kW inverter output, not directly related to the solar array size.
Great video instruction on racking & panel mounting for DIY!!
MANY THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEOS!
Glad it was helpful!
24:09 The gland connectors not secured properly. Nice build!
27:31 OK it's fixed now... :)
Thanks for checking the details. I was missing a part and had to fix it later. If I showed everything the video would be several hours long... : )
It's an interesting video. But I don't understand the feasibility of placing a solar station on this roof, even with optimizers. What is striking is the constant shading. What losses from shading are predicted?
It was understood the shading would be a negative in this setup. However, it was the only practical location for installation.
For your region in the USA are you required to make sure at least 3 feet from the edge of the roof and gables?
My building department did not require that, but that doesn't necessarily mean it isn't a requirement.
Hi, love your videos! I noticed you used PVC conduit inside. However, I thought metal conduit is needed inside. Is this allowed because of the optimizers and automatic shut down with the inverter?
Thanks for the encouragement. I'm a mechanical engineer not an electrician, maybe there's an electrician out there that has some insight on your expectation for needing to use metal conduit. All the installations I have done and had inspected used PVC inside and out with no issues.
Ya betul sekali , penjelasan ya sangat jelas, saya suka sekali dengan penjelasannya
Thanks for another great video.