Just a note: if you get a bucket of water, start your ground rod in the dirt, add water, ull rod back out, pour in water, shove the rod in and out a few times, pull rod out, pour in water, shove rod in, work it up and down, pull out, pour in water, and keep the process going. You'll be amazed how fast it will go down, even in hard dirt, without using a oat driver or sledge hammer.
What so many DIY'ers do is show every detail of how to bolt it down, and then glance over the electrical install because they don't REALLY understand electricity yet. The creator is going to have to assure me I am not wasting my time before I finish watching this. ....I know how to bolt something down. What the world needs is a clear understanding of the electrical part.
Man, i hand installed 180 roof screws in a wooden roof by hand since my screw driver was not powerful enough to torque them in. Thiugh my ellbows would pop. Thanks for the video. Good to see.
Excellent video. 32:12 Although the breaker is back-fed when it's turned on, the micro-inverter can't produce power on the terminal side if it's switched off. It's still good to mark it, but reason being, grid-tied microinverters only can amplify the grid's 60 hz signal. They do not have he capability of creating their own AC wave. You can think of them as a rudimentary 60hz audio amplifier being powered by the solar panels. That is how they stay "in sync" with the grid wave. They don't try to make their own 60hz and somehow keep that perfectly in sync.
@@anthonyrstrawbridge Sorry, but it's just 30 years of electrical engineering, reverse engineering equipment and reading schematics. I'm sure there is something out there if you google how a grid tie inverter works but I don't have any links handy. I do have a few taken apart in my basement that I've had to troubleshoot.
This panel can put out close to 100 watts th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
As this was a “grid tied system” the manner in which you made connections and gave instruction was excellent. One caution: whenever turning breakers on or off, one needs to have the panel box cover on and use your non-dominant hand to maneuver the breaker while your face should be turned away from the panel. This will ensure that, should the breaker fail and explode, you don’t lose your most needed hand, the explosion doesn’t damage your face, and you have a chance at surviving an explosion that would maim or kill you. Safety first. Otherwise, excellent video. Keep up the great informative work.
Hi Dave. My name is Aaron Odibo, am from Nigeria and i love what you are doing and am more inspired. I will like to follow you up and get to know things better
Pre-drilling holes into wood is something of an art. Many drill too bigger hole to suit the wood in use. Softer woods like pine only need small hole aroun half diamter at max. Harder woods like pre-drill that matches the diamter of the thread shank. Wood screws squeeze out the wood and compress it to make strong thread bite.
Absolutely outstanding. This was an incredibly educational video. I hope to be able to do the same thing after winter thanks for sharing and educating.
Incredible the work you have done Dave, and all by yourself. I encourage people to install solar panels. I already installed them through a company since I didn't dare to do it myself like you did and it was worth it. Greetings from Spain🙂
Another idea for driving the grounding rod: use a T-post driver. When you get close to the ground turn it upside down and keep pounding. It worked better for me than the hammer.
I've got two sets of panels installed, one facing SW and the other NE. People have commented the NE set is pointless but on cloudy days there is so much diffraction in the clouds they both produce the same amount of power. That's why I got the NE set - cloudy days when the SW ones won't output enough.
Really interesting video on mounting your panels and grid tie inverters. But your regs and UK regs are so different.. Hope you get the best out your system.
Well done 👍. Your video and insight just saved me thousands as I’m working on my own solar project. I’m grateful and wish you and your beautiful family the best. I have subscribed on your page and will be watching. All I need now is information on your vendor since I’m in Puerto Rico and prices here are unreasonable. Thanks again, Rubén
Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful. If you are looking for micro inverters, there are lots of options. Just find a reputable company that serves your region.
Use the heel of the forks to push the rod in.. not the tip. Nice end results. 10k + watts.. sweet. Your not to OCD about wire management.. I like that. Close the cover and nobody sees it. I like your work. I'm wondering if some micro inverters would help my system.
Here's a hint for grounding rods. Start off as deep as you can get it with without having to do a lot of work, add a little water around the grounding rod, wait 5 or 10 minutes and hammer it in some more, continue process until desire depth.
I installed 3 arrays of Enphase M250's in 2015. My code inspector let me use air conditioner shut offs for each array, then directly to the breaker box. He wanted a ground, I said nope. As long as I installed them by the enphase book I didn't need a ground. The ground was through the enphase trunk and each inverter chassis. I won the argument. East, West and South, 9000 watts.
Love the video's. But, did I see that correctly, you tied the ground rods from the shed to the ground rods of the house? I thought that was a big no-no.
Excellent video, details at every step. One glaring omission (pun intended) is the cost. Knowing exactly how much you spent for the rails and hardware would be outstanding. I'm sure it's not disclosed for a reason?
Can you do a teardown video of a RevoPower Rebel? I've been using my rebel for 3 years and it's survived 2 hurricanes!!!! It kept my wife and daughters safe and comfortable at home during the last storm, want to see your thoughts now!
Nice setup!! I wish I had that many kW of solar because I just bought an EV. I simply don't have the usable space in my yard or on my house for many more solar panels.
Great video.. didn't understand a single "technical" word you were used, but entertaining. This is A LOT of solar...for another $20k you could be fully off grid with a few batteries.
This guy is moments away from experimenting with batteries. I foresee a sol-ark and fortress install in this mans future, likely in the shed he just installed solar onto. Can't wait to see what he comes up with.
For future grounding rod driving, u prob have a hammer chisel, there's an attachment for 20bucks to use it on grounding rods. If u dont have an electric chisel, u can get one from harbor freight for 60-90 bucks. Plug in version. I got a battery one, love it for this(sds plus adapter). Was watching my neighbor smack a rod in the other day, and went out there and did it for him, he said it took him about 30mins to get it down the 2 feet lol, took 10 mins get it the rest of the 6 feet or so for me, hit a rock or 2... lol busted right through them. Well worth it, u can use it for setting rebar and other things.
I just jumped into solar this month and it's addictive and costly. I didn't go with a DIY and purchase all the gear separately but I do like all the option out there. I went with the BLUETTI AC500 & B300S setup. I picked up 2 PV400 panels, cables, and their charging enhancer. I think it would be cheaper to DIY by looking at the prices. For instance, a B300S LiFePO4 battery was 1799 for a 3072kWh and that's their current presale offer. Once they get on their website, it will 2399. Looking at other LiFePO4 batteries, they run around 1500 to 1899 and it's slightly over 5kWh. I really liked the compact batteries that can be installed in these cabinets. I will be looking and designing something later as I learn more. What I'm having an issue with is what panels to get. There are so many on the market and most I would say is great but some are not. I don't want a small or large panel but a medium size panel that's very efficient. Not enough power in the smaller ones but the larger ones are too big and heavy but have the power. I'm looking at panels I can lift and move. I don't have all the space you have unless I was out on my dad's ranch. Do you have any good panel you could recommend in the 180 to 300+ range? The 400 to 500+ watts are large and heavy from what I'm seeing. I would like to have about 3000 watts of solar input on the AC500 Inverter. I'm hearing series is the best way. I can bring in two strings to the inverter and one string into each battery. Lastly, how does one figure the size of their extension cabels from the invertor to the panels? You have a nice setup their. I wished I would have jumped into this a few years ago bit better late than never.
Small panels are much more expensive per watt than the larger panels. If you are ok with going used, SanTan solar has some medium sized panels at a good $/Watt. They are rated for around 250W but expect them to perform like 200W panels. I have done some testing with them in this video: th-cam.com/video/qu4iGxBhqzs/w-d-xo.html Unless you are going more than 100 feet, 10AWG wire should be fine for your extension cables. Make sure you don't string too many in series and exceed the input voltage on your MPPT. You can see some detail on that topic in this video: th-cam.com/video/ZFbKtGSkhsE/w-d-xo.html Finally you can watch my DIY solar generator build here: th-cam.com/video/OwfGLu8IY_M/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps. Thanks!
@@ProjectsWithDave Thank you! I will watch these videos later this evening. I don't mind paying more for a panel. I would prefer new panels over old ones. I'm just trying to get the most solar input with the 2 MPPT controllers in the AC500. It's 150v max per MPPT. 300v total. I can't exceed or it will be the most expensive paper weight I ever owned. :) Finding the right panel while getting each string to achieve around 1500 watts is what's taking me the most time. I have to stay under that 150v as you mentioned. I will definitely be staying under 100' for the cable. I'm shooting for 50' but no more than a 100'. I can go with bigger cable if I need too. A little more costly but that's okay. Are you using solid or stranded in your cables? It's crazy how so many people out there have systems like yours. Blows my mind to see all those batteries but I get it. It can pay for itself and you don't have to worry about relying on the system which is what I like the most. Electric rates are not getting any cheaper. I appreciate the response. I subbed to keep learning. I'm patient and don't mind long videos.
A few comments: I don’t see a need for the micro inverters for the regular guy, because I don’t see any overhanging branches or things that would shade your panels. The other question I have is regarding grounding, I’ve read and seen some videos where a lot of people say it’s a waste of time to ground. Saying that if lightning hit, it would destroy your panels anyway! It would be nice to have some definitive video made on grounding, I can’t seem to find any. 🖖 I think I would just turn off my solar gear if lightning storm hit and go back on the grid. Then wait for the storm to pass before turning it back on.
The microinverters allow you to easily create an array of any size. You can start with one inverter and one solar panel if you want and then add to the system later. The panels you add in the future don't have to be the same because each micro inverter is a system all by itself. Depending on where you live, ground rods may be required regardless of their value in improving lightening risk. You should check with your inspector for your area and layout.
Too much effort, and I was curious to see if my prediction of poor West facing production was accurate. Turns out it was an accurate prediction... : ) I may turn it in the future to face SW.
From California...it is now recommended by insurance to not put solar on your roof...if you have...check that every bolt is sealed every year. Roofs are leaking because the sealant cracks. Put them on an awning and shed roof 👍👍
If insurance companies are running, that's a good indication it's a risky endeavor. It's their job to know risk. I recommend ground mount unless you have no other choice.
Fun project! I am about to install my system and am looking forward to everything other than the panel install, lol! Since my inverter (SA 15k) will easily allow me to AC couple through it, I've decided to add on some cheap micro-inverters and extra panels I have set aside. I was thinking about installing them fairly vertical to capture more sun in the winter, which is really about the only time my system might be marginal for meeting my production requirements. Like your shed install, I'll add this stuff after everything else is up and running.
Galvanic corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals, such as aluminum and stainless steel, come into contact with one another. The electrochemical reaction between the two metals can cause oxidation and deterioration of both surfaces, leading to costly and potentially dangerous damage. What are your experience about it?
@@ProjectsWithDave seems pointless but for maintenance and future work its quite smart, especially mounting the micro inverters for ease of installation.
Thanks Dave. Great video. Wiring AC is always my weakness. Can I ask why the backfeed breakers always go to the opposite side of where the main lines come in? Wouldn't it also work if it was near where are the main lines coming?
When attaching the leads from the solar panels to the breakers in the shed, I noticed you were wearing gloves, but no mention of the possible hazard of handling lines coming directly from a solar panel array exposed to direct sunlight. Is this as dangerous as it looks, or am I missing something?? Aside from that one question, a great and informative video. Here in Southern California, we have a 10 year old 20 panel array, and just added a new 9 panel array, fed independently to our main breaker panel. So far, looks good.
Thanks. The leads from the microinverters don't provide AC power until connected to the grid. I did confirm that with a meter before touching them though. : )
When do we use optimisers... What's the difference between using a single inverter and using micro inverter.... when are charge controllers used... what's the difference between off grid and on grin solar system....can u do a step by step installation of a single inverter and same with the micro inverter
I use a rubber squeegee on a long pole when I'm feeling ambitious. However, it's typically not worth the time if you have south-facing panels with a good tilt angle they will clear themselves. You can watch more detail on the topic in this video: th-cam.com/video/vY3PufzPUnI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video! I've been following you and have now decided to do my own Rack System 30Kw With NEP and 550W bifacial. I'll be using the NEP BDM-1000 in 6 series of 10 units. my question.. I'm getting a combiner box with 6 inputs and 1 output. (I'm looking at similarities for mine) So when you come off the pigtail, before your combiner/breaker box, on the roof where you connect to the conduit-- What Wire AWG? did you have in that conduit that you ran (19:43) from that the pigtail that plugs into it and runs to the breaker/combiner box? For my system- as I mentioned, I would basically have 6 of those lines running to my breaker/combiner box with 6 x 20 Amp fuses since the amps of panels will be 13.11 and will have 420V (a perfect scenario) if I'm doing 6 groups of 10 in series. Or would you bring those in and make them series-parallel before going into the breaker box as one unit? Thank you
It looks like each NEP BDM-1000 will handle two panels and with this unit you can have 3 units on each branch. For 54 Panels that would result in 27 pairs of panels and 9 branch circuits consisting of 3 units each. Your combiner panel would need nine 20A 240VAC breakers. Something doesn't match with what you have written above. Either way, the conductors in my conduit running from the roof to the panel were the NEP provided pigtail for the series loop. I had a short run and low current, so 12AWG would be sufficient. The distance you are running and the current you expect to carry are the key factors in determining the conductor size. You can use a tool like this one to help size your conductors: www.omnicalculator.com/physics/wire-size
Very nicely done and informative video - thanks for that... One question: my understanding is that micro inverters are designed to shutoff if grid power goes down so as to not backfeed onto the grid. Is there a way to keep the solar system feeding your house when grid power goes down (obviously this can only happen in daylight hours)?
It is really very informative video. can you also give a cost of the breakup of the parts used. and you mentioned about using the bi facial panel. what is the minimum distance to be maintained from the reflective surface to get the maximum benefit.
You can see the cost breakdown here: th-cam.com/video/InSpYqB-efE/w-d-xo.html There's no maximum distance from the roof. The further away you can get it the better the performance will be.
@@ProjectsWithDave Your video was fabulous. Can you do a step by step setup for Van Life vans , like even just with the photos of the equipment that is needed , Solar panels to battery to inverter and wiring to run a, fridge, 2-burner stove/oven , a fan, lights , heater.? Thank you
Isn’t the bus bar limit 20% over in a backfeed situation? If you have a 200amp panel, the max backfeed you could do would be a 40 amp breaker. Anything over that would need side taps on the meter side of the panel feed. I’m not sure this is safe.
So I have a large, mostly southern facing roof on my barn... But my home doesn't have a suitable basement for a solar setup. Could I install everything in the barn and just run large cables from the barn to the main panel in the house? Are you aware of any example installations like that? Interested in a new target site in PA for a solar install series? 😂
Interested to see how the bifacial gain works with 5" off a white roof. Looking at doing an install early next year so my choices are ground (more $) or on the garage roof.
My initial results show some improvement but not nearly as much as the ground mounted setup. I'll bring the numbers once I have some statistically significant data.
very pertinent remark MB Fishing, I think that Dave misunderstand the concept of bifacial panels. They make more sense when rows of panels are placed with an angle to support and spacing between rows. So they cam collect sunlight diffused by the ground . This video installation is equivalent to "normal" panels i.e. having white sheet at the back.
Interesting you should say place solar at different directions. I was told my house was the wrong angle so did it all myself now my solar come in best about 3pm right till sunset really good for when I’m home from work and need the power
Placing panels at different angles and orientations has a significant impact on performance and timing of power delivery. You can see some analysis I did on the topic in this video: th-cam.com/video/J7xnY84Ch1E/w-d-xo.html
Super informative and well explained, with a very good balance of detail, and your camera/drone assistant is doing a great job showing the steps and progress! Just found your channel researching bifacial panels and I'll definitely stick around. Will you be measuring temps on your test? I gather that the performance of bifacial panels is quite sensitive to temperature.
@@ProjectsWithDave Fantastic! Thanks for the reply and for sharing your findings with us. And congrats again for this great resource, keep it up and this channel will no doubt grow fast (provided youtube's algorithm winds blow favorably)
Well done and concise how to! Love seeing the family help, and the accurate assessment of their value! Your micro inverter setup is interesting, I have a shed I’m looking to add solar too and hadn’t considered micro inverters. It currently has under ground service to my house panel and it’d be nice to back feed over it (6 AWG L1 and L2, 6 AWG ground) - cant push much DC over the ~ 120’ run, but AC I could. Quick question, why were the ground rods required but neutral bonding was not?
Thanks! I am not an electrician, you should consult your local inspector with your electrical plans before you move forward. Since you already have a 6 AWG ground wire you may not need separate ground rods. You only bond the neutral where your power is landing, the main panel at the house.
If you are in an area where code is required, and possibly for insurance issues in case something bad happens, and most definitely the electric co would officially poo-poo it, backfeeding as such is not going to pass. The electric co and fire department want point of entrance disconnect which you can't provide, and the electrician appreciates it too ;) The inverters do have live monitoring disconnect, but that doesn't meet code by itself. As long as you never generate more than you typically use, there isn't much issue for DYI smart folks. If you do generate more, your meter may register a fault and/or may charge you for the excess production as modern non netgen meters only go forward.
Lots of great information. Advice on video editing, try not to oversharpen/over process the video. Difficult to watch with edge ghosting on tablet / TV screen. Had to switch to phone to try and watch the rest. But really good info!
Thanks for the feedback. Maybe you could clarify what "edge ghosting is"? Was it the whole video or just certain parts? Maybe there is a TH-cam video on preventing it? Editing is not my strength, I did some shadow reduction and increased the contrast to make it easier to see the connections especially in the load centers and it looked fine on my monitor and TV. Thanks for your help!
Very interesting video, thank you for your knowledge. out of subject question but regarding your roof, are the insulation panels installed on a roof full of wood or just cross beams ? Thank you
Wonderful videos. Thank you! Is there any advantage to a bifacial on a roof mount? I am considering putting a system up on a very old house which has no roof issue, perfect South facing and higher than anything around (no shading). The only issue is making old chimneys safe. I have already lowered their height but need to strengthen them because they were built in the mid 1800's and the mortar is fragile. I am very leery of installers who want to sell things and I have no easy way of checking them easily. My time is limited and I have no ability to answer multiple phone calls after putting in a query for a quote. Thanks again😀
In general I wouldn't spend extra to put bifacial on the roof. I set up a "best case" scenario with this white shed roof. You can see the results in this video: th-cam.com/video/mzqjCsZKUYQ/w-d-xo.html
Outstanding video! Thank you for sharing. I would love your thoughts on your ROI. My home electrical usage cost on the grid verses a solar system that is comparable would be about 18 years for my ROI. I’m having a hard time with those numbers. Thank you
I would not install a system that took more than 7 years to pay back. That's my personal target. Another thing to consider, the average person doesn't stay in the same home for more than 7 years.
Hey Dave, do you have an Amazon link where I can buy the clips mentioned at 3:46 min. mark, the type that will slide on the edge of the solar panel? Thank you for your videos, I am definitely learning a lot.
I am thinking about putting solar on my shed to power only the shed. What happens to the system when I’m not using any power from the panels? Will not be grid tied and I am thinking to use micro inverters to make wiring easy, maybe add batteries later. Thanks.
The only system that I know of that can use micro inverters without a grid tie connection is the Enphase IQ8. Most off-grid systems require some battery capacity to balance intermittent loads. Either way, if you aren't using the power, it is just dissipated at the panels as heat.
hello great video, what would you recomend as my bulk voltage setting on my inverter, i have a 24v100H lithium battery with a charge voltage of 25v and a discharge cut off voltage of 16.5v...... cant figure how to set the bulk charge voltage in my 3kva inverter
Nice job! Why microinverter system ILO string inverter? You mentioned a tree , so possible shading? More points of potential problems with more equipment, right?
1) Roof mounted equipment needs to have module level shutdown, so I had to have some module at each panel anyway. 2) I already had AC run to the shed so It was easy to integrate. 3) I had mismatched panels for my testing 4) I wanted module level monitoring 5) I wanted to have easy expansion in the future 6) The inverters are very low cost Hope that helps. Thanks!
So the NEP gateway is not required to commission? You can get these inverters for about $100 at the moment. That's cheap AF for a dual channel micro inverter.
I thought the bi-facial panels were meant to recapture reflected light that has passed through the panel from the top. Wouldn't mounting it closest to the reflecting surface be more efficient? Although I do like allowing plenty of airflow t prevent the drop in efficiency due to heat.
@@ProjectsWithDave I'm sure I saw something a year or so ago when I first heard about bifacial panels that was saying the light passed through the panl and then was reflected, but everything I'm looking at now is saying what you are saying. Maybe my memory was wrong, or the video I saw was wrong. But yes, that makes sense. Thanks for the response.
One thing I would say is installing panels overhanging the edge of a roof is not a good plan. If the wind gets under the panels it can crack the panels or even lift them right off the roof. Normally you would leave about 12" of roof exposed all round to prevent this problem.
I agree, extending past the roof is probably not good standard practice. However, this is just my small shed project so I just made sure the racking was well secured and the panels face the prevailing wind. Keep in mind, on a ground array the panels catch all the wind.
@@ProjectsWithDave Yes it's true that on a ground array the panels potentially take more stress but they are normally held in a solid frame to keep stress away from the panels. If I were you I would add some extra bracing to the edges of the panels so if the wind does get under them the stresses are better distributed. That aside it's a pretty good little project. The electrical side was very well explained and carried out.
I’m pretty sure that green wire from micro inverters goes to the neutral and never to the ground. Also, having multiple grounds per site may cause problems unless it is properly designed. It is hard to judge without knowing layout of your property, so I would recommend getting a professional opinion on your setup.
In your video at 24:04, it appear that you used pipe ground clamps instead of acorn style clamps. Please confirm that the clamps you used are listed for “direct burial.” It’s not clear in the video and it’s important for a DIY channel to convey the correct information. Thank you and good work.
It's expensive to add battery storage. However, I have added a small emergency backup battery system in this video: th-cam.com/video/BzMAW8kW0CU/w-d-xo.html
Hi Dave, thanks for the videos that you are putting out, very informative. Did you need to get new permit from your local authorities for your small project on the roof of the shed? Thanks.
Do you use conductive grease to protect the ground mounts from corrosion causing resistance between ground grounding mount and the grounding rod being used for earth ground.
Very educational but what happens when the PV Panels create more power than you are using? (Is that in another TH-cam Video?). Also do you intend to add batteries for power storage?
It's grid-tie, so it gets feed back into the grid. You can see how it works for me in this video on net metering: th-cam.com/video/IwUK1dNJ3n8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video. Very good explanation for why you do what you do. I assume there is a module you have at the house to AC couple the microinverters to, correct? I am a HAM radio operator and know that some solar installs cause a lot of interference. One guy wasn’t able to operate a radio with the solar install a city block away. I am not sure if they used optimizers (the DC version of micro inverter) or what you used. Are you a ham radio operator? If so, can you tell me what sort of RFI the solar causes? I realize you have other things on your plate, so not a big deal. I would be willing to bring my radio in my truck to your place if you were local. As I remember the problem for the other radio operator, he stated that the noise went away when the sun went down. Thanks again for all your videos. Makes me think I could do one of these. All the best!
Thanks! I do not have a ham radio, or any RFI detection equipment, If I get some at some point I'll check it for you. There is no special module needed for AC coupling. The inverters automatically detect and synchronize with the grid.
Great video. I have a quick question. When you replaced the 40 amp breaker from you utility distribution panel with a 60 amp , did you take in consideration the 120% rule ( NEC705.12(B)(2)(3)(b)) of the NEC? I saw your main breaker is 200amps but I can’t tell the amp rating of your busbar from the video. Make sure you are still in compliance by changing the solar array breaker from 40 to 60 amps.
I'm a solar installer .............. Ya did a great job pal ............ very neat work ... Thank you from Dublin Ireland
Just a note: if you get a bucket of water, start your ground rod in the dirt, add water, ull rod back out, pour in water, shove the rod in and out a few times, pull rod out, pour in water, shove rod in, work it up and down, pull out, pour in water, and keep the process going. You'll be amazed how fast it will go down, even in hard dirt, without using a oat driver or sledge hammer.
Thanks for the tip!
yep...thats the trick....works really well
Yes, Thanks for the tip! I'm going to try it with my ground rods for my electric fence to keep the critters out of my vegetable garden!
Yeah...Arizona hasn't gotten the memo about the water trick. #caliche
I did it the hard way too! Doh!
What so many DIY'ers do is show every detail of how to bolt it down, and then glance over the electrical install because they don't REALLY understand electricity yet.
The creator is going to have to assure me I am not wasting my time before I finish watching this.
....I know how to bolt something down. What the world needs is a clear understanding of the electrical part.
Are you saying there was insufficient detail on the electrical portion? What would you like more detail on?
Man, i hand installed 180 roof screws in a wooden roof by hand since my screw driver was not powerful enough to torque them in. Thiugh my ellbows would pop. Thanks for the video. Good to see.
Excellent video. 32:12 Although the breaker is back-fed when it's turned on, the micro-inverter can't produce power on the terminal side if it's switched off. It's still good to mark it, but reason being, grid-tied microinverters only can amplify the grid's 60 hz signal. They do not have he capability of creating their own AC wave. You can think of them as a rudimentary 60hz audio amplifier being powered by the solar panels. That is how they stay "in sync" with the grid wave. They don't try to make their own 60hz and somehow keep that perfectly in sync.
Nice explanation, I always wondered how the syncing was done
Ditto. I wondered about that too.
Can you post references or links. I'd like to read more about this specifically. ,✌️
@@anthonyrstrawbridge Sorry, but it's just 30 years of electrical engineering, reverse engineering equipment and reading schematics. I'm sure there is something out there if you google how a grid tie inverter works but I don't have any links handy. I do have a few taken apart in my basement that I've had to troubleshoot.
This panel can put out close to 100 watts th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
One thing to consider: the areas of greatest uplift are along the edges and ridge of the roof. If possible, keep the array back from those edges ~12".
As this was a “grid tied system” the manner in which you made connections and gave instruction was excellent. One caution: whenever turning breakers on or off, one needs to have the panel box cover on and use your non-dominant hand to maneuver the breaker while your face should be turned away from the panel. This will ensure that, should the breaker fail and explode, you don’t lose your most needed hand, the explosion doesn’t damage your face, and you have a chance at surviving an explosion that would maim or kill you. Safety first. Otherwise, excellent video. Keep up the great informative work.
Hi Dave. My name is Aaron Odibo, am from Nigeria and i love what you are doing and am more inspired. I will like to follow you up and get to know things better
Pre-drilling holes into wood is something of an art. Many drill too bigger hole to suit the wood in use. Softer woods like pine only need small hole aroun half diamter at max. Harder woods like pre-drill that matches the diamter of the thread shank. Wood screws squeeze out the wood and compress it to make strong thread bite.
Absolutely outstanding. This was an incredibly educational video. I hope to be able to do the same thing after winter thanks for sharing and educating.
Glad it was helpful!
Incredible the work you have done Dave, and all by yourself. I encourage people to install solar panels. I already installed them through a company since I didn't dare to do it myself like you did and it was worth it. Greetings from Spain🙂
Thanks! I haven't been to Spain yet, would love to visit your country sometime.
Thank you Dave
Another idea for driving the grounding rod: use a T-post driver. When you get close to the ground turn it upside down and keep pounding. It worked better for me than the hammer.
Good idea, I figured that would work better, but I don't have one.
What? Just use a hammer drill with ground rod cup
I use a piece of old 1/2" water pipe with metal plate welded into end, use a dolly to smak on with out too much deformation of the rod end.
What!! A hammer drill attachment! How did I not know about this? Does it work well? Like this one? amzn.to/3Uso3bk
@@ProjectsWithDave yes i used those for years at my old job it made running ground rods super simple
DAVE, The most complete, comprehending presentation on youtube by far!!! Hat Down
Thanks!
I've got two sets of panels installed, one facing SW and the other NE. People have commented the NE set is pointless but on cloudy days there is so much diffraction in the clouds they both produce the same amount of power. That's why I got the NE set - cloudy days when the SW ones won't output enough.
If you need to be producing power on cloudy days and you have no other place to put panels, I guess that makes sense.
Really interesting video on mounting your panels and grid tie inverters.
But your regs and UK regs are so different..
Hope you get the best out your system.
Love your videos. You've been a major driver in me deciding to install my own 13kW system!!
Awesome! I'm glad I could inspire you!
Well done 👍. Your video and insight just saved me thousands as I’m working on my own solar project. I’m grateful and wish you and your beautiful family the best. I have subscribed on your page and will be watching. All I need now is information on your vendor since I’m in Puerto Rico and prices here are unreasonable. Thanks again,
Rubén
Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful. If you are looking for micro inverters, there are lots of options. Just find a reputable company that serves your region.
Another interesting video, Dave! Also thanks for linking to the racking. It looks like it's very easy to use and sturdy.
Thanks! The ground array racking was easy to install and I have had no issues with it even in 60+mph winds.
Use the heel of the forks to push the rod in.. not the tip. Nice end results. 10k + watts.. sweet. Your not to OCD about wire management.. I like that. Close the cover and nobody sees it. I like your work. I'm wondering if some micro inverters would help my system.
Wow so much information. This is the BEST video I've seen re solar power ever. Simply awesome and thanks for sharing
Glad it was helpful!
The perfect design combined with the perfect explanation. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Here's a hint for grounding rods. Start off as deep as you can get it with without having to do a lot of work, add a little water around the grounding rod, wait 5 or 10 minutes and hammer it in some more, continue process until desire depth.
Thanks for the suggestion!
I installed 3 arrays of Enphase M250's in 2015. My code inspector let me use air conditioner shut offs for each array, then directly to the breaker box. He wanted a ground, I said nope. As long as I installed them by the enphase book I didn't need a ground. The ground was through the enphase trunk and each inverter chassis. I won the argument. East, West and South, 9000 watts.
Thank you brother. You just blessed my socks off with more inspiration. God bless you and yours.
Yes solar is very addictive. I just had to add a battery to my system for that elusive night time production. Cheers
I'm working on a battery backup solution for a future video.... keep watching 😀
If you are using Bi-facial panels it is better to leave a space between them to allow some light to pass through.
My rails weren't long enough for that, but maybe it's something I will have to experiment with later.
Thanks for the videos. Ive built a off grid power system for our home with the help of you guys on youtube thanks for sure
Love the video's. But, did I see that correctly, you tied the ground rods from the shed to the ground rods of the house? I thought that was a big no-no.
You're absolutely correct! We call that perilous deed a grounding loop!
Excellent video, details at every step. One glaring omission (pun intended) is the cost. Knowing exactly how much you spent for the rails and hardware would be outstanding. I'm sure it's not disclosed for a reason?
Not omitted, just in a separate video, you can watch it here: th-cam.com/video/InSpYqB-efE/w-d-xo.html
Great job! Easy to understand tutorial. Keep them coming. Sincerely, Mark Martin
Can you do a teardown video of a RevoPower Rebel? I've been using my rebel for 3 years and it's survived 2 hurricanes!!!! It kept my wife and daughters safe and comfortable at home during the last storm, want to see your thoughts now!
Nice setup!! I wish I had that many kW of solar because I just bought an EV. I simply don't have the usable space in my yard or on my house for many more solar panels.
Great video.. didn't understand a single "technical" word you were used, but entertaining. This is A LOT of solar...for another $20k you could be fully off grid with a few batteries.
I may get there some day, but when you consider high demand days combined with low production weeks, it takes quite a bit to be fully off grid.
This guy is moments away from experimenting with batteries. I foresee a sol-ark and fortress install in this mans future, likely in the shed he just installed solar onto. Can't wait to see what he comes up with.
Quite the prediction... You can see a preview of batteries at the end of this video: th-cam.com/video/InSpYqB-efE/w-d-xo.html
Ahh, victron, very nice! Instead of critical loads backup, go for full behind-the-meter; stack two sol-arks with 75 kwh.
One step at a time... : )
For future grounding rod driving, u prob have a hammer chisel, there's an attachment for 20bucks to use it on grounding rods. If u dont have an electric chisel, u can get one from harbor freight for 60-90 bucks. Plug in version. I got a battery one, love it for this(sds plus adapter). Was watching my neighbor smack a rod in the other day, and went out there and did it for him, he said it took him about 30mins to get it down the 2 feet lol, took 10 mins get it the rest of the 6 feet or so for me, hit a rock or 2... lol busted right through them. Well worth it, u can use it for setting rebar and other things.
Someone else mentioned that method. Thanks for the tip!
I just jumped into solar this month and it's addictive and costly. I didn't go with a DIY and purchase all the gear separately but I do like all the option out there. I went with the BLUETTI AC500 & B300S setup. I picked up 2 PV400 panels, cables, and their charging enhancer. I think it would be cheaper to DIY by looking at the prices. For instance, a B300S LiFePO4 battery was 1799 for a 3072kWh and that's their current presale offer. Once they get on their website, it will 2399. Looking at other LiFePO4 batteries, they run around 1500 to 1899 and it's slightly over 5kWh. I really liked the compact batteries that can be installed in these cabinets. I will be looking and designing something later as I learn more.
What I'm having an issue with is what panels to get. There are so many on the market and most I would say is great but some are not. I don't want a small or large panel but a medium size panel that's very efficient. Not enough power in the smaller ones but the larger ones are too big and heavy but have the power. I'm looking at panels I can lift and move. I don't have all the space you have unless I was out on my dad's ranch. Do you have any good panel you could recommend in the 180 to 300+ range? The 400 to 500+ watts are large and heavy from what I'm seeing. I would like to have about 3000 watts of solar input on the AC500 Inverter. I'm hearing series is the best way. I can bring in two strings to the inverter and one string into each battery. Lastly, how does one figure the size of their extension cabels from the invertor to the panels? You have a nice setup their. I wished I would have jumped into this a few years ago bit better late than never.
Small panels are much more expensive per watt than the larger panels. If you are ok with going used, SanTan solar has some medium sized panels at a good $/Watt. They are rated for around 250W but expect them to perform like 200W panels. I have done some testing with them in this video: th-cam.com/video/qu4iGxBhqzs/w-d-xo.html
Unless you are going more than 100 feet, 10AWG wire should be fine for your extension cables. Make sure you don't string too many in series and exceed the input voltage on your MPPT. You can see some detail on that topic in this video: th-cam.com/video/ZFbKtGSkhsE/w-d-xo.html
Finally you can watch my DIY solar generator build here: th-cam.com/video/OwfGLu8IY_M/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps. Thanks!
@@ProjectsWithDave Thank you! I will watch these videos later this evening. I don't mind paying more for a panel. I would prefer new panels over old ones. I'm just trying to get the most solar input with the 2 MPPT controllers in the AC500. It's 150v max per MPPT. 300v total. I can't exceed or it will be the most expensive paper weight I ever owned. :) Finding the right panel while getting each string to achieve around 1500 watts is what's taking me the most time. I have to stay under that 150v as you mentioned. I will definitely be staying under 100' for the cable. I'm shooting for 50' but no more than a 100'. I can go with bigger cable if I need too. A little more costly but that's okay. Are you using solid or stranded in your cables? It's crazy how so many people out there have systems like yours. Blows my mind to see all those batteries but I get it. It can pay for itself and you don't have to worry about relying on the system which is what I like the most. Electric rates are not getting any cheaper. I appreciate the response. I subbed to keep learning. I'm patient and don't mind long videos.
You wan to use stranded PV cable if it will be exposed to sunlight. Most of my related videos have links in the description for PV wire.
@@ProjectsWithDave Thank you for the information! I'll make sure to look through the description of your videos. That's very helpful.
🇨🇦 Excellent video. One of the best I have seen with a great parts list. Thanks
A few comments: I don’t see a need for the micro inverters for the regular guy, because I don’t see any overhanging branches or things that would shade your panels.
The other question I have is regarding grounding, I’ve read and seen some videos where a lot of people say it’s a waste of time to ground. Saying that if lightning hit, it would destroy your panels anyway!
It would be nice to have some definitive video made on grounding, I can’t seem to find any. 🖖
I think I would just turn off my solar gear if lightning storm hit and go back on the grid. Then wait for the storm to pass before turning it back on.
The microinverters allow you to easily create an array of any size. You can start with one inverter and one solar panel if you want and then add to the system later. The panels you add in the future don't have to be the same because each micro inverter is a system all by itself. Depending on where you live, ground rods may be required regardless of their value in improving lightening risk. You should check with your inspector for your area and layout.
Great video. Lots of good info. Curious why you wouldn’t turn the shed before the install so the panels would be ideally faced to the south?
Too much effort, and I was curious to see if my prediction of poor West facing production was accurate. Turns out it was an accurate prediction... : )
I may turn it in the future to face SW.
From California...it is now recommended by insurance to not put solar on your roof...if you have...check that every bolt is sealed every year. Roofs are leaking because the sealant cracks. Put them on an awning and shed roof 👍👍
If insurance companies are running, that's a good indication it's a risky endeavor. It's their job to know risk. I recommend ground mount unless you have no other choice.
Fun project! I am about to install my system and am looking forward to everything other than the panel install, lol! Since my inverter (SA 15k) will easily allow me to AC couple through it, I've decided to add on some cheap micro-inverters and extra panels I have set aside. I was thinking about installing them fairly vertical to capture more sun in the winter, which is really about the only time my system might be marginal for meeting my production requirements. Like your shed install, I'll add this stuff after everything else is up and running.
Sounds like you have it under control. Good Luck!
Galvanic corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals, such as aluminum and stainless steel, come into contact with one another. The electrochemical reaction between the two metals can cause oxidation and deterioration of both surfaces, leading to costly and potentially dangerous damage. What are your experience about it?
Excellent video. And yes, brother, you are blessed.
great work with engineering the small walkway onto the roof.
😂
@@ProjectsWithDave seems pointless but for maintenance and future work its quite smart, especially mounting the micro inverters for ease of installation.
I have learned a lot through this video. Good job!
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks
Thanks Dave. Great video. Wiring AC is always my weakness. Can I ask why the backfeed breakers always go to the opposite side of where the main lines come in? Wouldn't it also work if it was near where are the main lines coming?
Yes, it would work. However, placing the inputs at opposite ends of the bus bar reduces the max current any one portion of the bus bar would see.
When attaching the leads from the solar panels to the breakers in the shed, I noticed you were wearing gloves, but no mention of the possible hazard of handling lines coming directly from a solar panel array exposed to direct sunlight. Is this as dangerous as it looks, or am I missing something?? Aside from that one question, a great and informative video. Here in Southern California, we have a 10 year old 20 panel array, and just added a new 9 panel array, fed independently to our main breaker panel. So far, looks good.
Thanks. The leads from the microinverters don't provide AC power until connected to the grid. I did confirm that with a meter before touching them though. : )
When do we use optimisers... What's the difference between using a single inverter and using micro inverter.... when are charge controllers used... what's the difference between off grid and on grin solar system....can u do a step by step installation of a single inverter and same with the micro inverter
Thank you for taking the time to make this very informative video 👍❤️🙏
Most definitely you are a very blessed man to have a loving wife and children. God is good, for this was His design.
Very nice job! How to clean the snow off the collectors without damaging them?
I use a rubber squeegee on a long pole when I'm feeling ambitious. However, it's typically not worth the time if you have south-facing panels with a good tilt angle they will clear themselves. You can watch more detail on the topic in this video: th-cam.com/video/vY3PufzPUnI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video! I've been following you and have now decided to do my own Rack System 30Kw With NEP and 550W bifacial. I'll be using the NEP BDM-1000 in 6 series of 10 units. my question.. I'm getting a combiner box with 6 inputs and 1 output. (I'm looking at similarities for mine) So when you come off the pigtail, before your combiner/breaker box, on the roof where you connect to the conduit-- What Wire AWG? did you have in that conduit that you ran (19:43) from that the pigtail that plugs into it and runs to the breaker/combiner box? For my system- as I mentioned, I would basically have 6 of those lines running to my breaker/combiner box with 6 x 20 Amp fuses since the amps of panels will be 13.11 and will have 420V (a perfect scenario) if I'm doing 6 groups of 10 in series. Or would you bring those in and make them series-parallel before going into the breaker box as one unit? Thank you
It looks like each NEP BDM-1000 will handle two panels and with this unit you can have 3 units on each branch. For 54 Panels that would result in 27 pairs of panels and 9 branch circuits consisting of 3 units each. Your combiner panel would need nine 20A 240VAC breakers. Something doesn't match with what you have written above. Either way, the conductors in my conduit running from the roof to the panel were the NEP provided pigtail for the series loop. I had a short run and low current, so 12AWG would be sufficient. The distance you are running and the current you expect to carry are the key factors in determining the conductor size. You can use a tool like this one to help size your conductors: www.omnicalculator.com/physics/wire-size
Very nicely done and informative video - thanks for that... One question: my understanding is that micro inverters are designed to shutoff if grid power goes down so as to not backfeed onto the grid. Is there a way to keep the solar system feeding your house when grid power goes down (obviously this can only happen in daylight hours)?
Yes. Enphase has a solution with the new IQ8 that can sustain some loads without grid connection or a battery.
@@ProjectsWithDave thanks so much Dave
It is really very informative video. can you also give a cost of the breakup of the parts used. and you mentioned about using the bi facial panel. what is the minimum distance to be maintained from the reflective surface to get the maximum benefit.
You can see the cost breakdown here: th-cam.com/video/InSpYqB-efE/w-d-xo.html
There's no maximum distance from the roof. The further away you can get it the better the performance will be.
Please make a cost analysis video? Also, Could you post the total cost as a pinned post?
I will work on a cost breakdown.
@@ProjectsWithDave Your video was fabulous. Can you do a step by step setup for Van Life vans , like even just with the photos of the equipment that is needed , Solar panels to battery to inverter and wiring to run a, fridge, 2-burner stove/oven , a fan, lights , heater.? Thank you
Ohio
I'm working on a home backup that will be applicable for your Van Life setup in the next few weeks.
Awesome work on this project! Thank you bro!
Beautiful workmanship!
Nice project with the kids
Isn’t the bus bar limit 20% over in a backfeed situation? If you have a 200amp panel, the max backfeed you could do would be a 40 amp breaker. Anything over that would need side taps on the meter side of the panel feed. I’m not sure this is safe.
So I have a large, mostly southern facing roof on my barn... But my home doesn't have a suitable basement for a solar setup. Could I install everything in the barn and just run large cables from the barn to the main panel in the house? Are you aware of any example installations like that? Interested in a new target site in PA for a solar install series? 😂
This was not easy to do ...lets not get crazy. But you did a fantastic job at giving the average joe a better chance at doing this themselves.
Very well explained video. Great job!
Thank you!
For flexible cables you should use a cable lug (german "Kabelschuh") to avoid damage!
Interested to see how the bifacial gain works with 5" off a white roof. Looking at doing an install early next year so my choices are ground (more $) or on the garage roof.
My initial results show some improvement but not nearly as much as the ground mounted setup. I'll bring the numbers once I have some statistically significant data.
@@ProjectsWithDave Thanks, looking forward to that data. I would think the west facing install will influence the back side gain as well.
very pertinent remark MB Fishing, I think that Dave misunderstand the concept of bifacial panels. They make more sense when rows of panels are placed with an angle to support and spacing between rows. So they cam collect sunlight diffused by the ground . This video installation is equivalent to "normal" panels i.e. having white sheet at the back.
You are damn right, solar is addictive
Interesting you should say place solar at different directions. I was told my house was the wrong angle so did it all myself now my solar come in best about 3pm right till sunset really good for when I’m home from work and need the power
Placing panels at different angles and orientations has a significant impact on performance and timing of power delivery. You can see some analysis I did on the topic in this video: th-cam.com/video/J7xnY84Ch1E/w-d-xo.html
Super informative and well explained, with a very good balance of detail, and your camera/drone assistant is doing a great job showing the steps and progress! Just found your channel researching bifacial panels and I'll definitely stick around. Will you be measuring temps on your test? I gather that the performance of bifacial panels is quite sensitive to temperature.
Thanks! I usually do measure temperature. I'll have to see if there is a significant temperature impact.
@@ProjectsWithDave Fantastic! Thanks for the reply and for sharing your findings with us. And congrats again for this great resource, keep it up and this channel will no doubt grow fast (provided youtube's algorithm winds blow favorably)
Well done and concise how to! Love seeing the family help, and the accurate assessment of their value! Your micro inverter setup is interesting, I have a shed I’m looking to add solar too and hadn’t considered micro inverters. It currently has under ground service to my house panel and it’d be nice to back feed over it (6 AWG L1 and L2, 6 AWG ground) - cant push much DC over the ~ 120’ run, but AC I could.
Quick question, why were the ground rods required but neutral bonding was not?
Thanks! I am not an electrician, you should consult your local inspector with your electrical plans before you move forward. Since you already have a 6 AWG ground wire you may not need separate ground rods. You only bond the neutral where your power is landing, the main panel at the house.
If you are in an area where code is required, and possibly for insurance issues in case something bad happens, and most definitely the electric co would officially poo-poo it, backfeeding as such is not going to pass. The electric co and fire department want point of entrance disconnect which you can't provide, and the electrician appreciates it too ;) The inverters do have live monitoring disconnect, but that doesn't meet code by itself.
As long as you never generate more than you typically use, there isn't much issue for DYI smart folks. If you do generate more, your meter may register a fault and/or may charge you for the excess production as modern non netgen meters only go forward.
Lots of great information. Advice on video editing, try not to oversharpen/over process the video. Difficult to watch with edge ghosting on tablet / TV screen. Had to switch to phone to try and watch the rest. But really good info!
Thanks for the feedback. Maybe you could clarify what "edge ghosting is"? Was it the whole video or just certain parts? Maybe there is a TH-cam video on preventing it? Editing is not my strength, I did some shadow reduction and increased the contrast to make it easier to see the connections especially in the load centers and it looked fine on my monitor and TV. Thanks for your help!
Hi, I was wondering if you can make a video how to add additional solar panels to the existing solar system.
You can watch this video on my expansion of my system: th-cam.com/video/IZjISqEWglU/w-d-xo.html
Very interesting video, thank you for your knowledge. out of subject question but regarding your roof, are the insulation panels installed on a roof full of wood or just cross beams ? Thank you
The roof is corrugated steel, then felt, then 1/2" OSB, then rafters.
Well done.thank's too much. I'm following you from sudan.
Awesome! Thanks!
Wonderful videos. Thank you! Is there any advantage to a bifacial on a roof mount? I am considering putting a system up on a very old house which has no roof issue, perfect South facing and higher than anything around (no shading). The only issue is making old chimneys safe. I have already lowered their height but need to strengthen them because they were built in the mid 1800's and the mortar is fragile. I am very leery of installers who want to sell things and I have no easy way of checking them easily. My time is limited and I have no ability to answer multiple phone calls after putting in a query for a quote. Thanks again😀
In general I wouldn't spend extra to put bifacial on the roof. I set up a "best case" scenario with this white shed roof. You can see the results in this video: th-cam.com/video/mzqjCsZKUYQ/w-d-xo.html
Outstanding video! Thank you for sharing. I would love your thoughts on your ROI. My home electrical usage cost on the grid verses a solar system that is comparable would be about 18 years for my ROI. I’m having a hard time with those numbers. Thank you
I would not install a system that took more than 7 years to pay back. That's my personal target. Another thing to consider, the average person doesn't stay in the same home for more than 7 years.
do you have any video that talk about the differences between the old style electrical sub-panel vs the new style that required by new code?
Sorry, no I don't.
Hey Dave, do you have an Amazon link where I can buy the clips mentioned at 3:46 min. mark, the type that will slide on the edge of the solar panel? Thank you for your videos, I am definitely learning a lot.
Thanks for the feedback. You can find the clips on the components page on my website towards the bottom: projectswithdave.com/components/
get some flush cutters for those zip ties. made those things lethal lol
well done. Greetings from Brazil!!
Thanks! I lived in Brazil for a while when I was younger. Lots of great memories from that time.
I am thinking about putting solar on my shed to power only the shed. What happens to the system when I’m not using any power from the panels?
Will not be grid tied and I am thinking to use micro inverters to make wiring easy, maybe add batteries later. Thanks.
The only system that I know of that can use micro inverters without a grid tie connection is the Enphase IQ8. Most off-grid systems require some battery capacity to balance intermittent loads. Either way, if you aren't using the power, it is just dissipated at the panels as heat.
Nice job.. very clean .. amazing. Instructions.
hello great video, what would you recomend as my bulk voltage setting on my inverter, i have a 24v100H lithium battery with a charge voltage of 25v and a discharge cut off voltage of 16.5v...... cant figure how to set the bulk charge voltage in my 3kva inverter
The manual for your battery should tell you what the charge settings should be. If not, contact the manufacture.
Nice job! Why microinverter system ILO string inverter? You mentioned a tree , so possible shading? More points of potential problems with more equipment, right?
1) Roof mounted equipment needs to have module level shutdown, so I had to have some module at each panel anyway.
2) I already had AC run to the shed so It was easy to integrate.
3) I had mismatched panels for my testing
4) I wanted module level monitoring
5) I wanted to have easy expansion in the future
6) The inverters are very low cost
Hope that helps. Thanks!
Excellent video. Thx for sharing.
So the NEP gateway is not required to commission? You can get these inverters for about $100 at the moment. That's cheap AF for a dual channel micro inverter.
I thought the bi-facial panels were meant to recapture reflected light that has passed through the panel from the top. Wouldn't mounting it closest to the reflecting surface be more efficient? Although I do like allowing plenty of airflow t prevent the drop in efficiency due to heat.
Light doesn't pass through the panel. A larger gap leaves more space for light to reach the back side by reflection of surrounding surfaces.
@@ProjectsWithDave I'm sure I saw something a year or so ago when I first heard about bifacial panels that was saying the light passed through the panl and then was reflected, but everything I'm looking at now is saying what you are saying. Maybe my memory was wrong, or the video I saw was wrong. But yes, that makes sense. Thanks for the response.
One thing I would say is installing panels overhanging the edge of a roof is not a good plan. If the wind gets under the panels it can crack the panels or even lift them right off the roof. Normally you would leave about 12" of roof exposed all round to prevent this problem.
I agree, extending past the roof is probably not good standard practice. However, this is just my small shed project so I just made sure the racking was well secured and the panels face the prevailing wind. Keep in mind, on a ground array the panels catch all the wind.
@@ProjectsWithDave Yes it's true that on a ground array the panels potentially take more stress but they are normally held in a solid frame to keep stress away from the panels. If I were you I would add some extra bracing to the edges of the panels so if the wind does get under them the stresses are better distributed. That aside it's a pretty good little project. The electrical side was very well explained and carried out.
I’m pretty sure that green wire from micro inverters goes to the neutral and never to the ground. Also, having multiple grounds per site may cause problems unless it is properly designed. It is hard to judge without knowing layout of your property, so I would recommend getting a professional opinion on your setup.
Green goes to ground. You can see the wiring diagram on the project page for this video: projectswithdave.com/diy-solar-shed/
In your video at 24:04, it appear that you used pipe ground clamps instead of acorn style clamps. Please confirm that the clamps you used are listed for “direct burial.” It’s not clear in the video and it’s important for a DIY channel to convey the correct information. Thank you and good work.
Thanks for the reminder, not all clamps are rated for direct burial.
Karen much
Was there any reason why you didn't add any battery storage...?
It's expensive to add battery storage. However, I have added a small emergency backup battery system in this video: th-cam.com/video/BzMAW8kW0CU/w-d-xo.html
@@ProjectsWithDave Thanks Dave, this is just what I was looking for...
Hi Dave, thanks for the videos that you are putting out, very informative. Did you need to get new permit from your local authorities for your small project on the roof of the shed? Thanks.
Do you use conductive grease to protect the ground mounts from corrosion causing resistance between ground grounding mount and the grounding rod being used for earth ground.
I did not.
Very educational but what happens when the PV Panels create more power than you are using? (Is that in another TH-cam Video?). Also do you intend to add batteries for power storage?
It's grid-tie, so it gets feed back into the grid. You can see how it works for me in this video on net metering: th-cam.com/video/IwUK1dNJ3n8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video. Very good explanation for why you do what you do. I assume there is a module you have at the house to AC couple the microinverters to, correct? I am a HAM radio operator and know that some solar installs cause a lot of interference. One guy wasn’t able to operate a radio with the solar install a city block away. I am not sure if they used optimizers (the DC version of micro inverter) or what you used. Are you a ham radio operator? If so, can you tell me what sort of RFI the solar causes? I realize you have other things on your plate, so not a big deal. I would be willing to bring my radio in my truck to your place if you were local. As I remember the problem for the other radio operator, he stated that the noise went away when the sun went down. Thanks again for all your videos. Makes me think I could do one of these. All the best!
Thanks! I do not have a ham radio, or any RFI detection equipment, If I get some at some point I'll check it for you. There is no special module needed for AC coupling. The inverters automatically detect and synchronize with the grid.
Great video. I have a quick question. When you replaced the 40 amp breaker from you utility distribution panel with a 60 amp , did you take in consideration the 120% rule ( NEC705.12(B)(2)(3)(b)) of the NEC?
I saw your main breaker is 200amps but I can’t tell the amp rating of your busbar from the video. Make sure you are still in compliance by changing the solar array breaker from 40 to 60 amps.
Good question. Yes, my distribution panel is 400A so it meets the requirement. Thanks!
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Any concern with wind getting under those panels, overstressing the mounts, and sucking the panels off?
They are rated for about 100mph winds. Any more than that and it's a tornado, and the shed is gone anyway.. : )
Great job! thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Most tin is fastened in the valley anyways its actually better than fastening to the rib.
How are the middle panels secured to the rails? Just the mid clamps? I'm putting 5 solar panels in one row.
Yes, just the mid clamps. For 5 panels in one row, you need 4 end clamps and 8 mid clamps