Thanks Zack for the video . For those who are interested in the build. Here is the list. Jdm k24a . Type -s oil pump , 50 degree vtc, Hasport full mounts 70a , Skunk2 header , Invidia q300 full exhaust , J35 Thorttle body /port match to rbc mani, Hybrid racing cold air intake, Hybrid racing battery relocation, Hybrid racing upper radiator hose, Aem dryflow intake cover, Mishimoto Radiator , K-tuned radiator cap , Hybrid racing dress up bolts , Tuned on Hondata flash pro, 10w30 full synthetic, Made 250hp 220tq ( 91pump) (tuned by Andy from asm) , Brand new A/c compressor , Brand new A/c condenser , Has Heat/ AC , [transmission} Rebuild z3 transmission, (SynchroTech carbon synchros rebuild kit - w/ brand new 2nd gear) , Exedy stage 1 clutch - brand new clutch plate, New Oem throw out bearing , Brand new Oem clutch fork , 12lbs competition flywheel , Acuity shifter bushing , Speed factory detent springs , Speed factory gear selector spring , Oem clutch master cylinder (upgraded version) , Mdp clutch bracket, Hybrid racing short shifter v3. (Red), Hybrid racing shift knob , Oem honda tranny fluid . [Suspension/ wheels] Tiens flex z coilovers K-tuned front control arm K-tuned lower ball joint w/ roll center adjuster Spoon ridged collars Moog - front and rear sway bar endlinks Spc rear camber arm Arp Extended front lugnut studs Mugen GP rims w/ 5mm spacer on front Mugen gp wheel spec 18x7.5 +48 Volks rays racing lugnuts / oem locking lugnuts Michelin pilot sport 4s - 225/40R18 Progress rear sway bar 22mm R1 concept Slotted rotors ( Geomet All four ) R1 concept Oe brake pads Goodrich stainless steel brake lines [Interior] Braum racing seats Braum seat sliders Planted rails Cf steering wheel Red Jdm Steering wheel badge Stock radio Jbl gto 629 speakers all around [Exterior] Oem hfp front lip , Mugen rep side skirt, Oem Mugen rear lip , Real Honda front badge , Password jdm yellow fog lights , 30% window tint, Carbon fiber vinyl roof/ trunk wrap , Redbull livery , Carbon fiber PasswordJdm wing gurney flap
How you managed to get 250hp with stock internals amazes me. I have literally the exact same mods on the motor. Just dropped off my civic today for tuning. Im hoping for 220ish but 250 sounds very nice lol
Honda having manual transmission issues? That's pretty strange, they hardly have manual transmission problems. It's usually the automatics that fail quite often.
The K series manuals are known for transmission issues, especially 2nd and 3rd gear. Some of that is certainly caused by abuse, but plenty of people have had those problems on new cars too.
I feel like their 6 speeds have 2nd and 3rd issues but not always… their old skool 5 speeds were bulletproof. But I still feel like 3rd gear on all Hondas from all ages engages weird sometimes. I’ve driven hundreds of stick Hondas and Toyotas. Toyota shifters felt like crap but always engaged, Honda shifters felt amazing but sometimes would be … CRUNCHY!
Mines used to grind badly going into 2nd and 3rd until I started using Amsoil Synchromesh fluid. It even stopped gear pop out. That and some solid shifter bushings helped a lot
Or by a misfire, imbalanced flywheel, or some other problem. I have a K24A2 in my 04 Civic with deleted balance shafts, a lightweight flywheel, and polyurethane mounts and it's a very smooth running engine.
You get a lot more vibrations because of the oil pump. The type s and type r pumps don't have balance shafts, which the whole purpose is to reduce vibration. Both my car and my friends car are k24 swapped, and we both noticed more vibration since we did our swaps. Especially mine since I have 88a hasport mounts. If you have stock mounts, it's noticeable, but tolerable. Mine sucks for daily driving now, but I'm getting used to it. I had the 88a hasport mounts since before I did my k24 swap. It vibrated a lot, but not that bad. In hindsight, I should have bought 62a or 70a mounts. But back then, I wasn't intending of doing a k24 and oil pump upgrade
@@glenc2353 I put the Type S oil pump on my K24A2 and it doesn't vibrate excessively like that one seems to. About the only noticeable (but not dramatic) vibrations are at idle and I think that's because it's not tuned yet, not from the balance shaft delete. There are no significant vibrations while driving though. Mine is in an 04 Civic sedan with Innovative 60A mounts though. I don't want or need ultra stiff mounts at stock power levels on a daily driver.
@@averyalexander2303 your tune may be a factor. When I ran my car for the first couple weeks after my swap, I was still on my old tune. It vibrated like crazy and the idle kinda sucked. Drove fine though. As I was doing my tuning through yoshtuned, it was running better and better after each update. When we were done, it ran so smooth and nice. Still vibrates a lot, but not nearly as bad as before the tune. Also, if you tune it and it's vibrating a lot at idle, maybe have them bump the idle up a tiny bit. That might help. I'm still tracking down a couple rattles and fixing with foam or glue. Rattles when cold by the plastic cowl. Had to bend the abs module and lines a little because they were vibrating on the frame. Light by sunroof rattles. Dashboard rattles a little but I think i fixed that. The vibration doesn't bother me but the noise does. It's okay because I just drive it to work and I never have passengers.
@@glenc2353 @glenc2353 Good to know. I'm on the stock Kpro K24A2 base map and it seems to work alright, but the idle isn't totally smooth. It's by no means rough or annoying to drive, just not quite as smooth as it could be. I noticed that the ignition timing jumps around constantly at idle, which could be a factor or maybe that's normal for the K series. I set my idle at 700 RPM, which seems to be about as low as it will happily go. No significant rattles, the 7th gens have pretty tight interiors.
Hopefully if thing go well I plan on picking up a 2013 cr-z this weekend that I will be k swapping or J swapping early next year mostly because I miss my old rsx and I’m getting back into the Honda game.
Pretty cool build. People hate on em but they're fun, reliable cars. Easy to modify and maintain. Not something I'd want for a road trip but for a fun around town car that also gets good mpgs, very nice.
Yes but that engine can be modded to make disgusting power and fwd is not a bad drivetrain you can fit a lsd to it to give it more grip or tune the suspension
I'm guessing the original K20 blew up or something. Otherwise this swap wouldn't be worth it for the minimal gains. I've had cars with both these motors and the K20 was slightly better in both stock and slightly modded configurations.
Minimal? Isn't it like 270bhp (at the crank) for a K24/K20 Frank (full bolt on) compared to ~240bhp for a K20 (full bolt on). I dunno. I guess the review car is still using the stock K24 head which flows less than the K20 head, which is where it loses out. I still prefer the higher-revving K20 by far myself though, but I can see the appeal of K24/K20 Franks and full-stock TSX K24s (because they are cheap and have more displacement). I guess the idea of using the full TSX^ engine here (just with the oil pump & 50 degree VTC) is to keep the cost down. ^ JDM Accord engine
@@TassieLorenzo oh yeah, I can 100% see the benefit to the K24 block/K20 head combo. But if I understood the video correctly, this video has a straight K24 swap. While I loved my K24, I couldn't imagine spending the money to swap it into an SI unless something was wrong with the original motor. They are just too similar.
@@glenc2353 Are you sure, or does it just feel faster because there's more torque? It's easy to be "fooled" as such. It depends on how much of a Honda-ey 'chasing the redline' driving style you had before, lol. I found the K24/K20 Frank combo felt more torquey, but that the safe rev limiter of 7500rpm always came up way too soon and was much less fun. [I like modern twin-scroll turbo engines that only rev to 6000-6500rpm even less! Albeit it was only the Renault F4R, not the Honda K20C1... Effortless but such less fun. :( ]
Thanks Zack for the video .
For those who are interested in the build. Here is the list.
Jdm k24a .
Type -s oil pump ,
50 degree vtc,
Hasport full mounts 70a ,
Skunk2 header ,
Invidia q300 full exhaust ,
J35 Thorttle body /port match to rbc mani,
Hybrid racing cold air intake,
Hybrid racing battery relocation,
Hybrid racing upper radiator hose,
Aem dryflow intake cover,
Mishimoto Radiator ,
K-tuned radiator cap ,
Hybrid racing dress up bolts ,
Tuned on Hondata flash pro,
10w30 full synthetic,
Made 250hp 220tq ( 91pump)
(tuned by Andy from asm) ,
Brand new A/c compressor ,
Brand new A/c condenser ,
Has Heat/ AC ,
[transmission}
Rebuild z3 transmission,
(SynchroTech carbon synchros rebuild kit - w/ brand new 2nd gear) ,
Exedy stage 1 clutch - brand new clutch plate,
New Oem throw out bearing ,
Brand new Oem clutch fork ,
12lbs competition flywheel ,
Acuity shifter bushing ,
Speed factory detent springs ,
Speed factory gear selector spring ,
Oem clutch master cylinder (upgraded version) ,
Mdp clutch bracket,
Hybrid racing short shifter v3. (Red),
Hybrid racing shift knob ,
Oem honda tranny fluid .
[Suspension/ wheels]
Tiens flex z coilovers
K-tuned front control arm
K-tuned lower ball joint w/ roll center adjuster
Spoon ridged collars
Moog - front and rear sway bar endlinks
Spc rear camber arm
Arp Extended front lugnut studs
Mugen GP rims w/ 5mm spacer on front
Mugen gp wheel spec 18x7.5 +48
Volks rays racing lugnuts / oem locking lugnuts
Michelin pilot sport 4s - 225/40R18
Progress rear sway bar 22mm
R1 concept Slotted rotors ( Geomet All four )
R1 concept Oe brake pads
Goodrich stainless steel brake lines
[Interior]
Braum racing seats
Braum seat sliders
Planted rails
Cf steering wheel
Red Jdm Steering wheel badge
Stock radio
Jbl gto 629 speakers all around
[Exterior]
Oem hfp front lip ,
Mugen rep side skirt,
Oem Mugen rear lip ,
Real Honda front badge ,
Password jdm yellow fog lights ,
30% window tint,
Carbon fiber vinyl roof/ trunk wrap ,
Redbull livery ,
Carbon fiber PasswordJdm wing gurney flap
How you managed to get 250hp with stock internals amazes me. I have literally the exact same mods on the motor. Just dropped off my civic today for tuning. Im hoping for 220ish but 250 sounds very nice lol
@@DavidLopezcruz08 I got lucky and my guess is it’s just a healthy motor
not sure what other car youtuber is this consistent keep it up👏🏼👏🏼
My favorite part of the video was his reaction to the rear seats and trunk😂😂😂
Honda having manual transmission issues? That's pretty strange, they hardly have manual transmission problems. It's usually the automatics that fail quite often.
A lot of si’s grind gears
The K series manuals are known for transmission issues, especially 2nd and 3rd gear. Some of that is certainly caused by abuse, but plenty of people have had those problems on new cars too.
I feel like their 6 speeds have 2nd and 3rd issues but not always… their old skool 5 speeds were bulletproof. But I still feel like 3rd gear on all Hondas from all ages engages weird sometimes. I’ve driven hundreds of stick Hondas and Toyotas. Toyota shifters felt like crap but always engaged, Honda shifters felt amazing but sometimes would be … CRUNCHY!
Mines used to grind badly going into 2nd and 3rd until I started using Amsoil Synchromesh fluid. It even stopped gear pop out. That and some solid shifter bushings helped a lot
@@averyalexander2303 That’s not really true more of cmc and slave that’s causes these problems at least on the 8th gen si
The vibrations are probably due to super stiff polyurethane mounts, not that the engine sits higher.
Or by a misfire, imbalanced flywheel, or some other problem. I have a K24A2 in my 04 Civic with deleted balance shafts, a lightweight flywheel, and polyurethane mounts and it's a very smooth running engine.
You get a lot more vibrations because of the oil pump. The type s and type r pumps don't have balance shafts, which the whole purpose is to reduce vibration. Both my car and my friends car are k24 swapped, and we both noticed more vibration since we did our swaps. Especially mine since I have 88a hasport mounts. If you have stock mounts, it's noticeable, but tolerable. Mine sucks for daily driving now, but I'm getting used to it. I had the 88a hasport mounts since before I did my k24 swap. It vibrated a lot, but not that bad. In hindsight, I should have bought 62a or 70a mounts. But back then, I wasn't intending of doing a k24 and oil pump upgrade
@@glenc2353 I put the Type S oil pump on my K24A2 and it doesn't vibrate excessively like that one seems to. About the only noticeable (but not dramatic) vibrations are at idle and I think that's because it's not tuned yet, not from the balance shaft delete. There are no significant vibrations while driving though.
Mine is in an 04 Civic sedan with Innovative 60A mounts though. I don't want or need ultra stiff mounts at stock power levels on a daily driver.
@@averyalexander2303 your tune may be a factor. When I ran my car for the first couple weeks after my swap, I was still on my old tune. It vibrated like crazy and the idle kinda sucked. Drove fine though. As I was doing my tuning through yoshtuned, it was running better and better after each update. When we were done, it ran so smooth and nice. Still vibrates a lot, but not nearly as bad as before the tune. Also, if you tune it and it's vibrating a lot at idle, maybe have them bump the idle up a tiny bit. That might help. I'm still tracking down a couple rattles and fixing with foam or glue. Rattles when cold by the plastic cowl. Had to bend the abs module and lines a little because they were vibrating on the frame. Light by sunroof rattles. Dashboard rattles a little but I think i fixed that. The vibration doesn't bother me but the noise does. It's okay because I just drive it to work and I never have passengers.
@@glenc2353 @glenc2353 Good to know. I'm on the stock Kpro K24A2 base map and it seems to work alright, but the idle isn't totally smooth. It's by no means rough or annoying to drive, just not quite as smooth as it could be. I noticed that the ignition timing jumps around constantly at idle, which could be a factor or maybe that's normal for the K series. I set my idle at 700 RPM, which seems to be about as low as it will happily go. No significant rattles, the 7th gens have pretty tight interiors.
Hopefully if thing go well I plan on picking up a 2013 cr-z this weekend that I will be k swapping or J swapping early next year mostly because I miss my old rsx and I’m getting back into the Honda game.
Pretty cool build. People hate on em but they're fun, reliable cars. Easy to modify and maintain.
Not something I'd want for a road trip but for a fun around town car that also gets good mpgs, very nice.
K24 all the things
My 8th gen civic cup holder handles a trenta size drink from starbucks with ease!
oh snap. I'm hyped for this.
6:02 -- that's art!
The k24 is much better. I have a k24 8th gen and I would refuse to believe that it was better than the k20 for years until I got it
Not usually a fan of that generation of Hondas, but that's pretty cool!
If it makes the owner happy, good for him. It's still a FWD economy car but it's his money and it looks well done.
Yes but that engine can be modded to make disgusting power and fwd is not a bad drivetrain you can fit a lsd to it to give it more grip or tune the suspension
@@herniagamingthese already come with an lsd stock
The vibrations are because of his hasport mounts, not the different motor
Come drive my 2007 Civic Si sedan that’s supercharged.
can i?
Love that thing 👌👌
Your my answer.
It’s fine
For starters it isn’t an inline 4
It is an L4
@@Lil_Red_FA5 according to Google. And my 10+ years of automotive mechanic skills....it's actually both. Nice try.
I bought my wheels from this civic owner!
Do a first gen tsx manual if possible
He has my RSX type s manual on the eventual list. And I live 35 minutes away from this civic review guy!
I'm guessing the original K20 blew up or something. Otherwise this swap wouldn't be worth it for the minimal gains.
I've had cars with both these motors and the K20 was slightly better in both stock and slightly modded configurations.
Minimal? Isn't it like 270bhp (at the crank) for a K24/K20 Frank (full bolt on) compared to ~240bhp for a K20 (full bolt on). I dunno. I guess the review car is still using the stock K24 head which flows less than the K20 head, which is where it loses out. I still prefer the higher-revving K20 by far myself though, but I can see the appeal of K24/K20 Franks and full-stock TSX K24s (because they are cheap and have more displacement). I guess the idea of using the full TSX^ engine here (just with the oil pump & 50 degree VTC) is to keep the cost down.
^ JDM Accord engine
@@TassieLorenzo oh yeah, I can 100% see the benefit to the K24 block/K20 head combo. But if I understood the video correctly, this video has a straight K24 swap. While I loved my K24, I couldn't imagine spending the money to swap it into an SI unless something was wrong with the original motor. They are just too similar.
It's a huge difference. Like a whole new car. I did the k24 swap on my civic with the type r oil pump and 50°vtc gear, and it's way faster.
@@glenc2353 it's not a huge difference. I've had both. You sure something wasn't messed up with your K20?
@@glenc2353 Are you sure, or does it just feel faster because there's more torque? It's easy to be "fooled" as such. It depends on how much of a Honda-ey 'chasing the redline' driving style you had before, lol. I found the K24/K20 Frank combo felt more torquey, but that the safe rev limiter of 7500rpm always came up way too soon and was much less fun. [I like modern twin-scroll turbo engines that only rev to 6000-6500rpm even less! Albeit it was only the Renault F4R, not the Honda K20C1... Effortless but such less fun. :( ]
Max Verstappen Japanese edition
A lot of misinformation in this video about the k24.
9k rpm k24 won't last long 😬😬😬
i seen this car before lol
No it sucked because you didnt open it up once video sucked