For a 1st timer you are doing a good job. Just check you put the throttle cables the right way around. But, stop listening to people who are telling you to only use OEM tools, they are giving you BS. good luck.
Thank you. its a steep earning curve and still spotting other issues to resolve! i think its going to be a while before the bike it finished! but useable will do for now!
under the fuel cap there's a small hole to drain any rain water - be certain that isn't blocked up or you're heading back to rustville. Brilliant effort so far - watching with interest.
You have to right temperament for this type of work. Patience, methodical, questioning but not surcomming to gorilla tactics. You are doing a very good job. Thanks for posting
When you put fuel through the tank again let it go into the carbs switch off the petrol at the tank and drain the carbs again so you have no crap in them and also make sure there is no water in the carbs do not leave the bike out in the rain as it looks like the tank let's water in it
If you are using the bike all year round then you will probably need the carb heaters. They were not fitted for all markets. They are there to prevent carb icing (as the engine is running, fuel from the carbs takes heat with it from the carb body as drawn into the engine - the carb body lands up very cold and that freezes moisture from the air in the carb causing issues - problem in cold damp weather but if it gets too cold there is not enough moisture in the air to freeze so no longer a problem). A tiny amount of water in the fuel is not going to bend rods. But it will stop the engine running. Not sure you will find a much better condition tank. Possible someone has lined it previouslym and some of the linings will fail over time with modern fuels.
That gunk that`s come out of the tank could be a badly installed chemical tank lining process. I had this on my old bike, same colour and a "rubbery" texture.
As you have a manual, have you set the float heights? should be 17mm from carb body to top of float. Also the air screws 1 and 3/4 turns out from LIGHTLY fully in. You could have bench balanced the carbs of the bike to get the butterflies as near the same .You will have to use vacuum gauges on the bike .Make sure the throttle cables have a little bit of play when you adjust them so they dont pull when you turn the bars before you put tank back bud.
Also dont bin those fuel tap filters you found in the tank, they look ok as spares and are still of use i had to get triumph ones to use couldnt find any exept for more expense from suzuki.
Than you for this, very useful. I was told i may not need to adjust the air screw as I didnt touch them, im going to get the bike running and see how that plays out. I did adjust the floats. Is this essential?
@@newmotorcycleguy if you have set the float heights as the manual as i said yeah good as to the airscrews ,well you didnt remove them when cleaning carbs?? As you dont know what setting they are at i would check them. Alot of people on forums have issues with poor running and ask advice on their bandits and alot of it is down to setting up adjustment of airscrews and balancing carbs.Its easier to do airscrews with carbs off as you can see the turns better,but you can do it on bike ,just need a short flathead screwdriver bit and maybe a small socket to hold it. its awkward if you got big mitts lol, but worth doing. Screw them in GENTLY till they seat and stop,dont force them!! Then count 1and 3/4 turns back out ,thats standard set, you can tweek each one later with it running to give the highest idle individually its in manual how, even 2 turns each would be ok to start moving each one at a time, in and out to find best point . Airscew underneath infront of float bowls in their tunnels ,burny fingers time with bike running have fun!
A screwdriver flathead bit that is narrow along the flat if you see what i mean as the airscrew slot isnt as long as some bit heads,i filed down one on each side a little to fit.
@@newmotorcycleguy if you have adjusted or altered the float heights,you do need to check they are at the height stated in the manual. If they are too low, that will cut off petrol flow/supply to the engine to quickly.If the float height is too high, you run the risk of petrol flowing out of the overflow.
I think for a first attempt, you have done well with the carbs. Not an easy job due to needing 3 hands the same size as a 2 year old!lol. That much crap coming out has to be an old tank liner. The addition of ethanol has caused endless problems for older bikes. I reckon that’s what has caused the old liner to fail. Modern liners are generally able to cope with ethanol. Just a thought , with the throttle operation issue you are having. Have you got the cables to the correct pulley & not got the open/pull cable on the close pulley & vice/versa? Also once you have solved that, before you replace the tank, check & adjust if necessary the cable free play. Looking forward to the next episode, hopefully all back together. It will take a few seconds on first start up for the fuel to get to the plugs to fire it up, so don’t fret if it doesn’t fire immediately.
Thank you for this comment. its been a scary thing to take something like this apart with no experience or knowledge other than holding a spanner! lol I though it may have been some kind of liner, its totally destroyed! and the tank is full of it! no wonder this poor bike was running so badly! I just hope the bike understands I'm trying to help!
you can filter your white vinegar so you can reuse it, Can use paint filters
Thank you!
For a 1st timer you are doing a good job. Just check you put the throttle cables the right way around. But, stop listening to people who are telling you to only use OEM tools, they are giving you BS. good luck.
Thank you. its a steep earning curve and still spotting other issues to resolve! i think its going to be a while before the bike it finished! but useable will do for now!
under the fuel cap there's a small hole to drain any rain water - be certain that isn't blocked up or you're heading back to rustville. Brilliant effort so far - watching with interest.
thank you for that comment, i didn't know about this, ill check it!
Evapo-rust is great stuff. But you seem to have done well with the vinegar.
Well done, please keep it coming. Thanks.
that was going to my choice till i found vinegar. I think if it needs any more it'll be a secondhand tank after i view it!
Seems to be going well, fingers crossed it continues Pete.
Thanks, im still at it!
You have to right temperament for this type of work. Patience, methodical, questioning but not surcomming to gorilla tactics.
You are doing a very good job.
Thanks for posting
Thank you for the comment and kind words! there has been times i wanted to go full on gorilla though!! lol
When you put fuel through the tank again let it go into the carbs switch off the petrol at the tank and drain the carbs again so you have no crap in them and also make sure there is no water in the carbs do not leave the bike out in the rain as it looks like the tank let's water in it
this bike will be under cover at home and at work.
If you are using the bike all year round then you will probably need the carb heaters. They were not fitted for all markets. They are there to prevent carb icing (as the engine is running, fuel from the carbs takes heat with it from the carb body as drawn into the engine - the carb body lands up very cold and that freezes moisture from the air in the carb causing issues - problem in cold damp weather but if it gets too cold there is not enough moisture in the air to freeze so no longer a problem).
A tiny amount of water in the fuel is not going to bend rods. But it will stop the engine running.
Not sure you will find a much better condition tank. Possible someone has lined it previouslym and some of the linings will fail over time with modern fuels.
Thank you for the comment. two of the barbs have the heater attachments missing so ill have to locate some.
That gunk that`s come out of the tank could be a badly installed chemical tank lining process. I had this on my old bike, same colour and a "rubbery" texture.
thanks, this sound exactly like the same stuff! what a waste of a thing to do, i wonder why they did it.
Bilt hamber Deox-c is good for removing rust.
Thank you, ill look at this stuff.
@@newmotorcycleguy 👍👌
As you have a manual, have you set the float heights? should be 17mm from carb body to top of float. Also the air screws 1 and 3/4 turns out from LIGHTLY fully in. You could have bench balanced the carbs of the bike to get the butterflies as near the same .You will have to use vacuum gauges on the bike .Make sure the throttle cables have a little bit of play when you adjust them so they dont pull when you turn the bars before you put tank back bud.
Also dont bin those fuel tap filters you found in the tank, they look ok as spares and are still of use i had to get triumph ones to use couldnt find any exept for more expense from suzuki.
Than you for this, very useful. I was told i may not need to adjust the air screw as I didnt touch them, im going to get the bike running and see how that plays out. I did adjust the floats. Is this essential?
@@newmotorcycleguy if you have set the float heights as the manual as i said yeah good as to the airscrews ,well you didnt remove them when cleaning carbs?? As you dont know what setting they are at i would check them. Alot of people on forums have issues with poor running and ask advice on their bandits and alot of it is down to setting up adjustment of airscrews and balancing carbs.Its easier to do airscrews with carbs off as you can see the turns better,but you can do it on bike ,just need a short flathead screwdriver bit and maybe a small socket to hold it. its awkward if you got big mitts lol, but worth doing. Screw them in GENTLY till they seat and stop,dont force them!! Then count 1and 3/4 turns back out ,thats standard set, you can tweek each one later with it running to give the highest idle individually its in manual how, even 2 turns each would be ok to start moving each one at a time, in and out to find best point . Airscew underneath infront of float bowls in their tunnels ,burny fingers time with bike running have fun!
A screwdriver flathead bit that is narrow along the flat if you see what i mean as the airscrew slot isnt as long as some bit heads,i filed down one on each side a little to fit.
@@newmotorcycleguy if you have adjusted or altered the float heights,you do need to check they are at the height stated in the manual. If they are too low, that will cut off petrol flow/supply to the engine to quickly.If the float height is too high, you run the risk of petrol flowing out of the overflow.
👍👍👍👍
thank you
I think for a first attempt, you have done well with the carbs. Not an easy job due to needing 3 hands the same size as a 2 year old!lol. That much crap coming out has to be an old tank liner. The addition of ethanol has caused endless problems for older bikes. I reckon that’s what has caused the old liner to fail. Modern liners are generally able to cope with ethanol. Just a thought , with the throttle operation issue you are having. Have you got the cables to the correct pulley & not got the open/pull cable on the close pulley & vice/versa? Also once you have solved that, before you replace the tank, check & adjust if necessary the cable free play.
Looking forward to the next episode, hopefully all back together. It will take a few seconds on first start up for the fuel to get to the plugs to fire it up, so don’t fret if it doesn’t fire immediately.
Thank you for this comment. its been a scary thing to take something like this apart with no experience or knowledge other than holding a spanner! lol I though it may have been some kind of liner, its totally destroyed! and the tank is full of it! no wonder this poor bike was running so badly! I just hope the bike understands I'm trying to help!
I would put some thinners through that petrol tank but let it soak over night
thank you
@@newmotorcycleguy it kills rust 👍
Petrol doesn`t compress. I bent a con rod due to cylinder filling with petrol due to bad carburettor.
yes, i was wrong, thank you, its the small amount changing form with the spark. I hope that doesn't happen to me though!
Buy a old bike and usually work follow, then you learn to know your bike 😅
Yep, I'm doing my nest on a wrench!
Make sure you olny ues e5 petrol as the new e10 is not any good for that bike when i frist had my bandit uesd e10 and run like dog 💩
Thank you for the comment. Yeah, ive heard this before, i live near a place that sells E5.