How to Shoot in Manual Mode on your Camera
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 พ.ค. 2024
- Shooting in manual mode is the best way to gain full control over the look of your photos. Choosing the right settings is more than just properly exposing your photo. By adjusting the shutter speed, ISO, and aperture, you can creatively affect the look of each photo.
Every image comprises a shutter speed, aperture, and ISO.
Simply put, the shutter speed controls how long the camera's sensor is exposed to light. The longer the shutter speed, the more light hits the sensor, and the more motion blur can be captured. Shorter shutter speeds are generally used to freeze motion.
The aperture controls how open or closed the lens blades are while shooting. Opening your aperture (lower number) allows more light to hit the sensor and also increases background blur. This is ideal for things like portraits and product imagery, where you'd want the subject to stand out from its surroundings. On the other hand, closing the aperture down (higher number) will increase the depth of field, allowing you to achieve an image that is sharp from front to back. Generally, landscape photographers like to close their aperture down to achieve more of their image in focus.
Lastly, the ISO controls how much (if any) light is added to the image. The higher the ISO, the more light is added. However, this has a drawback: You'll experience increasing noise levels as you raise the ISO. It is generally recommended to leave your ISO at your camera's base ISO (usually between 64 and 125) unless you absolutely must raise it.
Balance these three settings, and you'll be taking the perfect exposures in no time!
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Noise is a function of low signal (light). High ISO only amplifies noise, but does not cause noise.
Correct, this is the technical way of explaining it!
@@AustinJamesJackson would be a great lead in to discuss ISO invariance
plus the 'BASE ISO' is not always the min ISO available in the settings...
so while he's giving good advice for beginners, it might be useful to let them know that these days cameras will produce photos w/ insensible noise @ ISO 400 and in most cases even ISO 800 is perfectly fine, especially during daytime..
Manual mode by itself is great, however, throwing in auto iso for dynamic situation shooting may be one of the best overall ways to go.
I always steer away from auto ISO, as it can occasionally burn you if you aren't paying attention.
@@AustinJamesJackson definitely could in some situations. Though rarely am I in settings where it goes over 1600 and not paying attention to adjust otherwise. 1600 is a pretty clean iso these days
@@AustinJamesJacksonthrow zebras on and you’ll never have that happened.
@@AustinJamesJackson well yeah but that can also be bad advice in some situations. you are going to get a better image if you use 1/100 and iso 1000 then 1/10 and iso 100 plus today in lets say lightroom there is ai denoise that works well when the image is well lit and the iso is not above like 6400
You have the best shorts for photography in the game
Glad you think so!!
After dealing with advices like this one, having your iso always at 100, I've missed opportunities of taking photos with the settings I wanted, like a faster shutter speed..so, now use auto iso almost all the time. It's better a grainy photo than the photo I could not shoot with the aperture or shutter speed I wouldn't want. Just remove noise in post processing in lighroom or Dxo.
Why not just use the shutter speed or aperture you want and adjust ISO accordingly?
@@AustinJamesJackson auto iso does that after all. My camera is a Nikon d3500 and has no dedicated button to change the iso, you have to dive into the settings menu.
Well exactly. But sometimes you have to keep up with the action of people really fast. It's best to use continuous shutter speeds . If you're in manual mode, your going to get a shot if you can adjust the camera settings or use two or more camera bodies with different lenses really fast. Clients have the same amount of patience as people in the drive thru at a fast food restaurant. And it's getting worse. They want results right now.
i had this conversation w/ people over time... best way to get over the 'fear' of noise is to actually test the camera + lens and see what level is acceptable to You.
these days most cameras will produce excellent results @ ISO400 and even higher.
I shoot with manual and auto iso, also because iso doesn't affect the creative outlook of the photo
This is all somehow useful advice, however ine of the interesting thing you can learn is that even noise can be used for creativity and doesn't need to get eliminated at all costs
This is true!
I have really been enjoying Aperture Priority with auto iso and a minumum shutter speed.
That can work if you are paying close attention! Just want to make sure the ISO doesn’t creep up on you.
The ISO 100 rules is kinda confusing for most people at first. Alright you can get more details etc but when learning photography I think it’s best to first understand aperture and shutter speed.
I recommend manual only for special types of scenes or for some cool effects. Aperture or shutter speed priority combined with auto ISO are pretty reliable and most cameras will drop to ISO 100 when there’s enough light.
And keep in mind that each sensor reacts differently to ISO noise and most of the newer once get great details even on ISO 800-1600.
In short: if you can shoot at ISO 100 do it, but it isn’t a must in my opinion😉
Well said!
Right on. Shooting in manual can be pretty scary leading up to a shoot. But I do like to do it a lot. Don't be drinking or on drugs when you are doing that. Lol.
You need every brain cell in your head to pull it off. When my clients offer me a drink, I always refuse. Manual mode is critical thinking.
ISO changes the camera sensor’s sensitivity to light, it does not digitally add light…
In the film days you’d be correct, but technically in digital it doesn’t work that way.
@@AustinJamesJackson I’ll fill in the slightly vague reply for you.
Turning up the ISO increases the gain of the amplifiers of each photosite. It works very similar to turning up the volume on speakers. The higher the volume the more sound is produced but at the same time you amplify and increase noise. There is no digital light being added.
@@ChrisBaitsonagreed, Digital is the wrong word. Digital means 0s and 1s. ISO adds light by boosting the electronic signal
Glad I subbed
Thank you!!
Succinct, clear & to the point. Many, many thanks good sir. ❤
Glad it was helpful!
Love how you said: Base ISO. Because photo is pretty basic at 100 for perfect images in most camera's. Video isn't. It's a whole different story how ISO works and why BT.709 is 400-1600 base iso and Clog3 is 800 or 3200 base iso
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Love your video. Very informative
Thanks!
base ISO is not always the choice. check your camera's signal to noise diagram, but yes, in general, you won't see significant difference on small screens/prints.
Thanks!
I appreciate your photography videos Mr. Young Willem Dafoe
Glad you like them!
so random lol, they look literally nothing alike
ISO does not digitally (0s and 1s) add light; it's electrical -- as in gain, and the more you add, the more noise from the signal it brings
Correct!
im sick of these basic tutorials give us something more advance....theres already alot of tutorials out there for beginners
lol… plenty of more advanced tutorials on my channel if you look around.
Question: how do you effectively capture more light keeping ISO at 100 but with fast shutter speed and higher aperture? Would it depend completely on the shutter speed??
you need a strobe. you can’t add more light with out adding more light. raise your iso or shoot with a tripod and lower you shutter speed. raising your iso in camera is better than pushing the image in light room especially if you’re shooting jpeg
You can’t get more light without slowing the shutter down, opening aperture, or raising ISO.
You can't do that without using a flash or other light source. Also I would question what kind of situation calls for needing both fast shutter speed and high aperture in the dark.
ISO is the voltage applied across the sensor. More voltage results in amplified noise in the image
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I don't think he understood your comment :), ISO doesn't add noise, it simply amplifies already existing sensor noise.
ISO doesn't add noise, it just makes the noise more visible. Low light on the sensor is what creates noise.
@@stretch90 Yes, the higher ISO, the more voltage is applied across the sensor to make it more sensitive to low-light
The ISO doesn't add the noise. It reveals it. Noise comes from an underexposed photo.
4. Focus Control
That’s important too!
@@AustinJamesJackson Not bashing the vid. I know the Big 3 or the Triangle, was the main purpose of the vid in explaining manual.
Always shooting at base ISO is a terrible advice
When possible I ALWAYS do. I only raise the ISO if I need more light or want to play with a faster shutter speed. Why raise the ISO if not necessary?
@@AustinJamesJackson it's not about manually adjusting higher ISO but actually letting the camera pick the appropriate ISO, in most cases auto ISO is the way to go
Always having your camera at base iso is pretty amateur level advice.
Watching a video on how to shoot in manual is meant for amateurs…?
@@AustinJamesJackson you are not getting my point. Rarely do you see a top tier photographer suggesting to stick to base iso.
In today’s world of post processing it’s massively more beneficial to retain detail, noise is easy to fix in post.
Increasing exposure in post is the same as increasing ISO in the field. For that reason, I shoot at base ISO as much as possible and brighten in post if needed. But more often than not, I don’t need to do either one since I can just increase my shutter speed to let in more light.
@@AustinJamesJackson I suggest to experiment with usable range vs base in unideal conditions just focusing on final detail.
Bumping up exposure in post is absolutely not the same as increasing iso when you are shooting.
Increasing iso while shooting allows you to capture more detail, where pumping up exposure in post can only reveal detail your sensor was able to capture.
A caveat is using a tripod and remote shutter I suppose, but for handheld auto iso is absolutely worth using.
If you’re using a modern digital camera that is ISO-invariant, increasing aperture in the field vs increasing exposure in post will yield the exact same results. Check out “ISO-invariant” on TH-cam or Google and you’ll get a lot more info than I can reply with in a short caption.
Wtf this sound at 0:00 of the clip? Minus my ears.
😂