I don't hand my camera to family members firstly, and second, if a family member does use it, they are only using the wired or wireless trigger release and pressing it. They never touch the camera. EVER! lol NEVER EVER!
I'm a professional photographer IE I support my family with my work. 90% of the time I shoot aperture priority with auto ISO with a minimum shutter of 250 (1000 for sports and action). The only time I use manual mode shooting is when I'm using flash or strobes.
I ditched manual a long time ago, now I am shooting in aperature priority, with minimum shutter speed set depending on the situation, and auto ISO, the only thing I touch during shooting is the exposure compensation dial.. this way I still have all the control I need, but I gain it a lot quicker!
My teacher of the basic photography class was a professional event photographer and he said he uses aperture priority 95% of the time. That broke the illusion of 'you need manual mode' instantly for me and that really helped my motivation to continu. I'm really thankful that I got that info as a beginner back then because I'm also a 95% aperture priority person now not being distracted by anything else than what I what I'm actually capturing.
@@ThaGamingMisfit just please provide us a example of “Aperture Priority” 95% of the time? I will agree, although I personally have not eliminated the other 2 sides of the Triangle! Although I do enjoy the thought of 95% Aperture if it can equalize the other 2 sides of the Triangle.
@@Triplebuc50 My teacher mainly did event photography, both indoor and outdoor. I'm an amateur and using AP feels very relaxing, there are very few cases where I regret using it.
I shoot mostly bears and birds for my wildlife and find manual to be completely useless.......both subjects can move very fast from deep shade to open sunlight in woodland environments and there is never time to re-adjust or the shot gets missed. I personally love AV w auto ISO w my thumb kissing the exp comp wheel for instant corrections.
I find the priority modes are still too variable from shot to shot. And this is bad when editing hundreds of photos for a wedding. Plus if i have to worry about exposure compensation i might as well go manual. I usually shoot at 1/160 or higher (unless I'm using flash which let's me shoot slower) but i need to be in control of depth of field because i might be shooting a group versus an individual and in control of iso. I could limit the iso range for any priority modes but i find it just faster to adjust for the situation in the moment because there are times im going to have to "break rules".
Hey thanks for writing down your thoughts, really appreciate that! It's good that you have found something that works best for you and if it does the trick for you, then that's perfect! There's definitely not one mode that will do it all for everyone and for sure, in many of cases manual mode is the go-to. Have you tried manual mode with auto ISO and then limiting the max ISO to something the camera is comfortable with?
We are trying nicely to help you out. Wedding shooter want to have consistency because it help in the back end processing. Try shooting a 2-4 day Indian wedding on different auto modes. you will spend extra hours because no two frames are the same. Does this mean there are not parts of the day you can use like program mode. sure. Plus flash work in more better in manual mode. @@SightseeingStan
Inside, for a wedding with very consistent light, that makes a lot of sense. Set it and forget it. But when you follow the procession outside, where the light isn't nearly as consistent, a cloud may roll over or people move in and out of the shadows, you will be constantly compensating (call it what you will), just like photographers using other modes.
Exactly. Shutter speed should always be set to the slowest possible given the conditions. So in dark conditions you only really have to adjust the ISO as your compensation variable because shutter will be fixed to avoid motion blur. And in bright conditions you can set ISO to base and use shutter speed as your compensation variable. In these cases you have one compensation variable so why use aperature priority if it still has one compensation variable, exposure compensation? The different modes can be a surprisingly similar amount of work to manage.
Old school here. I began shooting in the 60s when knowing what you were doing was a valuable asset. Until the Nikon F3, I had never shot a 35mm camera on anything but manual. I do not use program mode and would not dream of letting the camera pick the ASA/ISO for me. Even with my digital cameras, they will be set on manual or aperture mode and a Sekonic digital spot meter has a place in my Domke bag.. 60+ years as a professional with 32 years as a studio owner has taught me that there is always something new to learn! A very good, well thought out video!
If you are shooting in bright light, I find the manual mode with auto iso is the best. Especially if you are shooting moving objects as in wildlife photography. You can choose the best shutter speed and aperture, .iso will be automatically adjusted.
@@jimmason8502 you set aperature and shutter manually... you just let camera set exposure automatically and its for me the best solution.... I usually keep aperature wide open cuz i love that bokeh and that keeps ISO lowest. Also if camera auto ISO is too high i can only reduce shutter a little bit and ISO goes down aswell, so i dont lose much quality of image.
@@jimmason8502 This is true, but with some camera systems you put the camera in manual and then set auto ISO, so technically you can say it's manual with auto ISO. Whether the camera sets it or we do, we are always "forced" to use one of the three settings (aperture, shutter speed or ISO) to get the right exposure (or exposure we want), so one could make the arguement that in a way we are never 100% manual. We can set two, but the nature of photography will force the third on us if we want a certain exposure.
To me auto-ISO in manual mode is the best all around. I typically leave my aperture wide open (unless I need the extra sharpness or DOF) and usually just adjust shutter speed based on both light and subject. On DSLRs it was more of a pain, but with live view on mirrorless cameras there isn’t much of a chance to mess up exposure. In the outdoors with lots of sunlight I will usually just set my ISO to 100 and control exposure with shutter speed. So I am switching back and forth between full manual and manual with auto-ISO.
You might know already, but some cameras have ISO 64 and 100 but perform best at 200. Also if your camera has this option it adds to your way of shooting: You can set your camera to it's preferred ISO and also set a shutter speed slow limit (depending on how long a lens you're using) so that longer exposures than the limit set, are the point at which the ISO starts to automatically go up.
I also find manual mode with Auto ISO the best way to go. You get control over shutter speed and aperture at the same time usually getting an optimal exposure
Been a wedding photographer for a few years now, started with manual and still use manual. Sometimes i want to do shutter drag and sometimes i just get a specific look that auto wouldn't allow me. It took some getting used to, but you quickly learn to adjust the settings. At this point, it would just feel weird to switch to auto, though i wouldn't knock someone who's just starting for using auto.
I use to shoot in aperture priority mode most of the time with exposure compensation and happy with it. Sometimes I use shutter speed priority for certain situations like panning again with exposure priority. I use manual mode with manual focus for astro photography only.
This is an excellent primer for using digital cameras. I've been using analog film cameras for over 5 decades. I know what I'm doing. Digital types - not so much. I've read the manuals, and ... blah blah blah ... I just forget. This vid really makes things a comprehensive review. Well done! No BS or nonsense - just the facts!
Do this if you are an action photographer, like wildlife and sports Set your camera to Manuel mode set your speed to freeze the action Birds for example 2000/ of a second, open the aperture to max for background blur then set ISO to AUTO! for best results this is the magic for sports and wildlife! And you will never miss the action! the camera auto selects the ISO in accordance with what you need to freeze the action! this is AUTO mode without the AUTO Mode!
Best video of the week! I’ve been watching seemingly hundreds of videos and this one was very handy and took the fear of a new camera a7iii away from me. Thank you! I’ll go try it out tomorrow!
All anyone needs to take into account is the time factor. If you have time with no pressure then Manual is the way. If you do not have time or you are out and about with your scene changing quickly then one of the semi modes would be the choice. Studio work manual everytime.
I mainly shoot in manual mode for the type of photography I do. In fact, I have to shoot in manual mode for some things. But there's times when the light changes too fast or I'm moving my camera around and the light changes that way. But instead of using aperture priority mode, I use manual mode with auto ISO. I prefer to be in control of 2 of my settings whenever possible. Aperture and shutter speed are the two most critical parts of the exposure. ISO is just an amplification of light or the exposure.
Wholly agree I shoot bands and auto modes are easily fooled by dynamic lighting changes. I would rather be underexposed by 1 or 2 stops than have motion blurred shots . I should also use manual focus more than I do to avoid the focus being spoofed by mic stands and drummers kit.
There's a reason that aperture priority was the default for film SLRs for decades. It makes the most sense for 99% of uses other than stroking people's egos.
The 35mm format in cameras allow more options. Some of us that came from film are still left and learned how manual and a meter worked. Flash in those days were manual as well. Great training. I feel too many entering into the field want it easy and not have to learn the basics of light both natural and flash.
It's important to understand how each setting affects the image but if all they do is shoot random snapshots there is really no point in using manual. Time and time again I get shots thare 1/4000 with iso 6400 because they wanted to shoot manual while lacking the fundamentals
As one of those that started in the 80s with a fully manual mechanical film camera, I really appreciate shiftable program AE and exposure compensation.
Good advice. Learn how it works and why. But full manual is really a misnomer. For any given exposure you can set two things. The third will be forced on you.
I like full control of everything. I only shoot in manual mode. I don’t think just because manual mode you’re a pro. It gives you the opportunity to learn how to deal with every situation you come across. And for me I like full access of everything. That’s just me
I keep my camera in P if I have no idea what I might see ... it'd get me a first shot while I work put what'd be better then I just have to roll the wheel by the shutter to change the shutter/aperture balance. Auto modes are great for changeable moments, but when it's all static, M is the best.
TY! I used to teach beginning photographers. They usually said I shoot manual. When I asked why they would say pros shoot in manual. I’d say there was a time when that was true but in today’s cameras there are better modes depending on what look you want. To prove I’d let them shoot in manual while I shot in program. It usually took them at least 3 shots to get a good exposure. Case closed. From there they would listen to me.
When it's a lazy day and I just want to experiment I use the manual mode and study the results of my photos. But in stressful situation I use program mode. For scenes of seas, waterfalls, I prioritize shutter speed and for landscape, I switch to aperture priority.
I shoot weddings mostly in Aperture Priority, auto ISO and minimum shutterspeeds locked in. WB at 3500K indoors and 5500K outside. All flash work is done in 100% manual I don't have time for changing settings as I'd miss shots I wanted. I believe getting the shot and removing any inconsistencies in post is preferable to getting consistent shots and missing some.
The advantage to shooting in manual really comes into play when you are editiing. If all the exposures in a series of photos are exactly the same, then batch editing is a breeze.
I am glad I eventually found how to use program mode with the other settings ! There are different settings for different situations . Program mode is a great compliment to the others ! The camera is a complete tool now ! Thanks for posting this !
HELLO STAN! I really enjoyed your video and what you do! Recently took your advice and did an experiment, we shoot with an Olympus E-500 with External Flash 1/250 f.8 at 400 ISO. EV Compensation is +2 points. Picture was nice, the Histogram showed image exposed properly! Did the same experiment with Auto ISO and the picture came out dark! So in my situation where we Photograph Rock Bands that are pretty much stationary with a little bit of movement by the drummer and colored LCD Stage Lights everywhere! Manual 400 ISO is the preferred setting!
What a fantastic Video !! I’m still learning and just that rule about doubling your focal length for shutter speed I did not know !! This explains why my handheld shots of my child are so hit and miss when she’s moving around for getting a good focus. Thanks ever so much !! I can’t wait to try this out.
Finally, some light has been shed for me with this video. I make artisan jewelry and need to take photos of my product so I recently bought a new camera and some lenses. I am new to photography think point and shoot to mirrorless camera new. I know the most VIP for me to learn is the exposure triangle and get familiar with my new mirrorless camera button function and settings. I have watched many YT videos and I take lots of notes. This is a learning curve for me and I am enjoying this part of my journey, but it wasn't until I watched this video you made that let some "Light" in. You made it easier for me to understand the different Modes function on my camera. I know one day I will look back and wonder why it seemed so confusing at first. Thank you I am a new subber. I appreciate your video/s Angel from The Bay Area, Silicon Valley, CA USA
In Sony P mode, it is an override mode where the camera chooses everything, but you can override whatever you please. If set to auto ISO, you can choose both f-stop and shutter speed. So it can be fully automatic, or you can choose two of the modes manually and let the camera do the rest. Manual mode is for controlling all three. Other brands have different implementations.
Yes. Setting ISO to a fixed level and let the camera do the rest is IMO one of the easiest ways to work fast with a camera and ensure that you have at least great quality. It works with basically all cameras that way. Even with the most basic pocket cameras. They will just look awful if the camera goes above ISO 200.
As a landscape photographer, when I shoot handheld, aperture priority reigns king when I know the slowest shutter speed will still give a sharp image, however when focus stacking and other forms of blending, its much easier to shoot in manual while on a tripod.
Nice 👍. When people tell me “I only shoot in manual” I usually wonder, if they know what they are doing. It sound to me as if they actually want to say “I am a great photographer”. Why are there P, A, S, M and auto iso on every pro camera?As you perfectly explain: For a reason! 🤩. One of the few situations where I prefer full manual without auto iso is indoors, when the room light - once measured - does not change, in order to achieve consistency in a series of pictures. Like what you would also do with a hand held light meter and measure the light source - not the reflected light (as the camera does).
@@jimmason8502if it's not manual mode then why the hell would Nikon call it manual mode? Auto ISO is a menu setting on most cameras and not a wheel you can spin like shutter and aperture anyway. You're thinking of the term "full manual" which isn't a mode, it's in reference to being in control of the full triangle manually. That being said I shoot manual mode with auto ISO a lot and only go full manual if I'm in an environment with lighting that never changes.
You are both right. Technically, if you are allowing the camera to set any of the equation AUTOMATICALLY you aren't shooting in manual. However, some camera systems require that you put the camera in "manual" mode in order to access auto iso. Thus Nikon says you are shooting in "manual" mode with "auto" iso. Technically a contradiction in terms! Who cares? As long as it works for you? I usually shoot in Flexible (fv) mode on Canon. 90% of the time I am using it as auto iso, I set the shutter and aperture. I sometimes say I am shooting manual with auto iso. I sometimes say I'm shooting in flex mode. I sometimes say just auto iso. Who cares what I call it, as long as I don't call it late for dinner! And it works!😂
Thanks. I never used program mode, but sometimes it's exactly what I need. For instance, a few weeks ago I was walking around central Rome. The light was constantly changing, and there were lots of shadows. I gave up and just put it in auto mode because I didn't have enough time to make manual adjustments every time while navigating the busy streets. I would have had the time to make a single adjustment, though, to capture what I wanted.
Haven't done manual mode since the old 36mm days. I usually use A or S mode. A when I want a specific aperture, aka depth of field and S when I want to freeze or blur moving subjects. Cameras are pretty good these days and fill in the blanks and it's so much quicker to get the right setting for a good shot. When doing stationary subjects I tend to take several photos with different settings just so I have more options later in post.
Thank you it sounds simple the way you have described it but I still can’t get the numbers into my head everyone explains differently ,I have watched lots of videos ,maybe I am just to old being over 70 I am practising with av but still have a lot of blurred photos maybe I need a try pod. I don’t want to do a lot of photography it’s just I bought a Pentax years ago a k500 which possibly wasn’t the right choice, but it fit my hands well to grip onto I always used auto but because it’s winter. I had a lot of time on my hands and decided to start to learn to do it in Manual mode, but found that there was too many parameters so tried p and now av Thanks 😊
I had a coworker who swore by Program mode and loved it and he did a pretty decent job getting photos, but as an old timer I had so much trouble trusting anything but M mode. I started when we were shooting B&W and developing our own film and my camera at the time didn't do well in tough lighting situations so M mode was all I used. I couldn't even trust autofocus until I bought a Sony A99.
Well explained use of each mode. Every new photographer should see this video. Even long time shooters would find this video handy like a refresher course.
I’m a flash studio photographer. Manual is all I use as the others are worthless when full control is needed based on the settings my 7 - 9 strobes are running. When shooting outdoors in available light I’m using either priority mode or manual using a remote camera control app.
I use full auto often. especially with events. My alternative is to set a manual exposure and to adjust the shutter as needed. Auto is especially useful out of doors for events if the light keeps changing - so sun in and out of the clouds.
Full-time commercial photographer. Only use manual. Not that makes it right or wrong. Prob 90% of my jobs I shoot tethered so it is so easy to fix things quickly. Also, sometimes I am sharing zoom / remote screen and I want to cut down the "bad" images before someone else gets to judge. Today cameras are so incredibly good at adjustments I can see how using Priority Mode makes some jobs that much easier.
The full auto mode is needed in two cases: 1. for beginners, to be quite sure they're not gonna blew it; 2. for the situations where the absolute priority is to shoot "in no time".
8:24 QUESTION: According to the rule if I'm using 35mm lens the shutter speed while shooting handheld should be at least 1/70. But if I'm using that lens on a crop sensor then for example on NIKON a 35mm would be an equivalent of 50mm lens (actually 35*1,5 = 52,5 but whatever). So if shooting on a crop sensor is that the focal length that should be used in that equation? So 35mm * 1,5 crop = 2x focal length which would mean that 35mm lens would still be a minimum of 1/100?
Good question! It would still be a 35mm lens, the crop doesn't change the focal length. Think of it as the crop would be like you would crop in your image in Photoshop.
@@RafalBorowskiWhen setting shutter speed to negate camera shake, the important thing is the field of view. So a 35mm lens on an APSC size sensor will have the field of view of a 52mm lens. The minimum shutter speed should generally be the reciprocal of your focal length, or on this case, you're effective focal length (relative to a full frame sensor) or 1/52. So, if you have 1/50 or 1/60, use that. This is the first place I've ever heard to use TWICE the reciprocal of the focal length, but faster is better for reducing the effect of camera motion.
I LOVE shooting in full manual, but it's not always the right mode to use. Today I went out shooting with a friend who's interested in photography, so I gave him my backup camera and explained some things as we went. Full manual is a lot of fun, but it takes me longer to get the shot when I also try to talk to my friend and get the settings in the camera correct at the same time. Manual with auto ISO is something I also really like. But today was an aperture priority day. I figured if we both were in the same mode and could swap cameras, it would be the easiest. I also set the minimum ISO to 400, so we'd have less blurry shots while still getting very clean images. Also it snowed a lot over the past days, so I set both cameras' exposure compensation to +1 stop. When considering you kind of have to do that, full manual doesn't make much of a difference anymore. But even if I didn't, it's still just 1 stop which is easy enough to fix in post. We both had a lot of fun and honestly, I don't think there were more than a handful of shots I would've gotten a lot better with manual settings
I have a Canon m6 mark II. I use FV mode. I set ISO to auto. Now I really can control Aperture and Shutter Speed. It's all on the touchscreen. No more finding the right button. I use back button focus in auto-focus or focus peaking for manual focus. I learned how to use my Canon SL2 in manual mode, I rarely use manual anymore.
When I shoot in a studio, I shoot manual becasue I am controlling the lighting. When I shoot outdoors or at an event, I choose a priority mode. E.g., aperture priority if I want to maintain the same depth of field whatever shutter speed the camera picks. Took a while for me to realize that.
@@白-u6d It depends, I have used HSS for fill flash at times. It's good for softening shadows in bright sunlight. And yes you can but I prefer not to use flash outdoors except in the example above when the Sun casts a shadow on the subject's face due to a hat.
@@jefffiore7869 which mode you prefer to use with flash. for my self i used manual mode but for some time the sunlight is keep changing so need to keep checking the expose. it annoying me
@@jefffiore7869 my flash mode is manual and my try to use tv mode but the expose are not constant darker or brighter. i need some way that can more convenient when using flash
Manual mode with auto ISO for me. Too often I find needing aperture priority and shutter priority within the same photo shoot, sometimes even just brief moments apart. Too cumbersome to switch back and forth. Manual mode is quite quick and easy. Not sure why anyone would avoid it. But, to each his own. There is no “wrong” approach
If you are experienced enough to use it, Manual with auto ISO is the best way to have full control over the results. Combined with ETTR (Expose To The Right) you also have full control over the lowest possible noise level, even with high ISOs. Which results in the best technical quality of your pics.
I have found that by using Auto ISO, You can set your aperture to give the depth of field you want, & then set a fast enough shutter speed to suit the scene you are shooting. This is probably only available on the more advanced cameras. When looking through the view finder you can see the ISO changing as you pan around. ISO changing as the metereing looks at different reflective light value.
I shoot landscape and critter photos and use Aperture mode. Typically F8 for the critters to give depth. And low F with low ISO for landscape to even out the darkness and brightness.
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In the old analogue days you didn’t change iso, that was fixed in film so professional photographers changed f stop and shutter.
The only thing that is important! Is the final result! Not what you know! Not using the best camera gear etc! That is the key! I can back that up 100's of times!
I like playing with manual mode to get a feel for how everything affects the shot, but I always have to take a few throw away test shots before it's dialed in, and that simply can't happen whenever I need to shoot things that might happen in the spur of the moment. Like child and pet photography. If I have to move around quickly at different angles, the light sources can change a lot and I have no room for taking test shots all the time. I don't mind the camera having to make quick ISO adjustments on the fly, but I do usually like to lock in my shutter speed (or at least have a minimum to reduce blur, I don't go below 1/80 when handheld if I can help it) and aperature. What would be cool is to set min/max ranges and then have auto adjust within that. Like if aperature below 4 isn't desired, and shutter below 1/80 isn't desired, or ISO above 2400 or whatever. This way I can avoid the camera going to extreme ends of any of the settings, that would be interesting. Another caveat of automatic OR manual settings is when a flash is introduced. If you have a speedlight or a special flash on or off the camera, then automatic exposure settings won't work since the camera doesn't know about the huge flash about to enter the scene. Unless I'm mistaken or maybe my camera doesn't have the right settings, when I use flashes, I pretty much have to go manual.
@sightseeingstan Wooooww, I learned a crap load from this video! Im so happy I learned something from TH-cam, I thought I B was going to have to take a class with someone to sit down with me and take me step by step! Thank you so much! 🙏🏾❤️
Manual if you want total creative control, all other settings if you are amazed by everything that comes out of your camera right now. You will know when it’s time to switch lol.
manual with a handheld meter - that way you'll be in charge of exactly what is being metered. most cameras do some kind of averaging thing or some kind of 'smart' metering thing.. but who exactly set up this 'smart' metering pattern and what were they shooting? what's smart for landscapes is not so smart for street photography - for instance
For me Manual mode with auto iso is magic.I have full controll over 2 of the most important things, and i let the camera handle the iso. You need experience to use it properly ofc.
9:10 Don't forget, in those bright daylight situations, if you want a slow shutter speed (e.g., for silky-looking waterfalls), and the aperture won't close down any further, and the ISO is at its lowest possible setting, you can still prevent overexposure with the appropriate neutral density (ND) filter. Why these aren't just built in to stills or hybrid cameras (especially for video where shutter speed should usually be a constant double-the-frame-rate, or 180 degree, setting) is beyond me.
Professional video cameras (ENG style) do have built in ND filters, right in front of the image sensor. I guess the reason they are not built into photo cameras is available space.
@@Havanu81 Maybe someone should send Sony the memo then, b/c they have that in their midrange FX6 cinema camera, and I think in their higher-end FX9 as well.
@@ebinrockFX6 and above series cameras are often used in a reportage/documentary setting or for lower budget small screen ad campaigns where pure image quality matters less and the crews are small. The big boys mostly use RED or ARI cameras, and have an assistant and a seperate focuspuller who take care of batteries, lenses, footage and filters. Hence the lack of build-in ND's for those bodies.
And yes, mirrorless cameras tend to prioritize size over features, which is also why they lack XLR inputs and better screens/EVF's. And rigging becomes a necessity to get the most out of those sensors. Which is something I actually like a lot, the modularity is what makes them so versatile to carry and operate in different circumstances.@@generalgrafx
Good explanation. But one thing I never see addressed in these videos is the impact of Image Stabilization on minimum shutter speed selection. That is, can the 1/100th speed with a 50 mm lens be say 1/15th with a four stop IS camera?
Of course IS helps, the minimum shutter speed is just a rule to keep in mind. You can also just focus on keeping the cam steady when shooting at lower shutter speed. It's the knowing that matters.
What? 1/100 s is 1/100 s. How could be 1/15 s? That make no sense. Now you will have to learn what shutter speeds you can use with and without IS. I typically use 1/60s without and 1/30 s with going longer if needed. Those are times where I feel confident to get a shake free shot with a single shot.
Thank you for this video! Thank you for showing all this on a Sony, I dont compare a phone with a camera, but your vid helped me to understan (better) the Xperia 1 V camera menu. Thank you for tips !
I can shoot in manual mode but usually only do it for Astro photography, OR if it’s a low light area and I want a specific look that the camera’s computer doesn’t auto do. Other than that I think aperture priority is best
I shoot with auto ISO. I set the shutter speed and aperture. Camera auto sets the ISO. This gives me creative control depending on the conditions, then bracket exposures.
Around 0:55 you state that manual means you have to set "Aperture", "Shutter" and "ISO" manually. At least on my Sony camera (7RV) I shoot in manual with e.g. "Aperture" and "Shutter" set manually while "ISO" can still be auto. For landscape I usually use aperture priority, but for e.g. portrait photography where I want to take control of bokeh/dof and exposure I always use manual mode with either ISO set to auto so I can check if lighting is correct or set manually if I want to underexpose to a certain level. There are many cases where neither aperture nor shutter priority will work because you loose control of either shutter speed (moving objects in frame?) or bokeh/dof (foreground/background separation?). I think it's really bad to recommend aperture priority for e.g. wedding photography, because the camera will often use way too low shutter speeds for people moving the slightest bit in non-ideal lighting situations and you would get photos full of motion blur. In this case using manual with e.g. aperture set to 2.8, shutter to 250 and ISO to auto (you don't always need ISO 100) is a good way to go. I know you can also go for aperture priority and choose a min. shutter speed next to ISO on auto, but then you aren't far away from using manual anyway.
I always shoot fully manual - except where I want to focus on one or two things and let the camera do the rest. High contrast scenes such as dance performances are a speciality and because you usually have bright subjects against a dark background, you set aperture and shutter speed and only adjust ISO manually as the lighting varies. If I pull out a tripod for Macro, I switch to live-view DOF preview - set the aperture, stay in Av and let the camera decide on shutter speed - unless I need to freeze motion or wind shake. Squeeze the right ISO for the conditions in Auto ISO - unless I can't freeze my subject. Backup plan is HSS flash. The key isn't which mode you are using but what you are trying to achieve. If full auto does it - who am I to say it's wrong. Just apply your attention to where it will make the biggest difference and use the technology where it can speed your creativity up. Execute whatever you've practiced and are good at! - or practice it if it's worth getting good at.
It is good to learn what the P mode does in your specific camera. On my EOS M50 it keeps the shutter speed at 1/60 s or shorter. This means I use it with lenses without IS but not with IS lenses when it is dark. On my older EOS M it is 1/30 s so I did just the opposite. I think the camera should decide it based on whether you have IS or not. On Canon cameras you can set the camera so that if you in the shutter priority mode select a too short shutter speed, it will lengthen it until the exposure is right. On mirrorless cameras you can detect if the shutter sped s way wrong on the brightness of the viewfinder or the screen. (This can be disabled if needed)
From a professional PJ that has shot anything and everything, and often on the same day: Pros shoot manual or aperture priority. Either full control or if shutter speed is not a concern, depth of field control. Auto mode and program modes mean giving up all control (and results in very boring photos). Shutter priority means giving up creative control of DOF. Again, resulting in boring photos. Auto ISO is also a no-go as this can create different looks from shot to shot (noise levels, and depending on camera, color shifts from ISO to ISO) making editing a hassle and batch editing impossible. Set a reasonable ISO for the situation and work with it. Being a pro is all about consistency and consistent outcomes.
Summed up nicely - depends on the situation you’re in. But I’d also might add it depends on what you’re shooting with as well. For example, I shoot a lot of worship services and concerts. My first digital camera shooting those events was a Nikon D5000 and my lenses were not fast and though it was a capable camera, in those situations A and S mode were challenging. The exposures were either off or the image quality not good due the high ISO so for me manual mode was a better option. I shot manual for those events with the D5000, D300 and the Sony a6000. When I got the Sony a7ii and better lenses several years later I still shot manual yet it was largely because I was accustomed to it by then. When I got the 7s I kind of split between manual and A mode but now that I’m on the a9 it’s almost always A mode for the same events yet I will switch to manual if I run into a situation during the shoot where I think I need it. What I’m shooting with now is far more capable than my three early bodies and lenses so A mode for me isn’t a big deal it comes down to choice for whatever I’m dealing with but back then for what I was doing manual mode was a necessity. I wouldn’t necessarily say that pros always or not always shoot in manual but that they evaluate each situation they are in and make a determination on using manual mode or figuring they can get away without it - depending on the creativity of course.
I started digital back in 2006 using P mode then 10 years later I went to Av mode..every once in a while M mode, now this year I am starting M mode with auto iso
Which usually doesn't happen outdoors with wildlife! When that fox kit runs into the shadows during a burst, it's nice to know that, while the exposure may not be perfect, perfect, it will at least be in the ballpark giving me a usable image.
I find for my wildlife photography manual mode with auto iso works perfectly well with the changing light conditions. When a bird pops in and out of the open/shadows auto iso keeps up well. May have to adjust the exposure compensation accordingly for small adjustments
I used to work as a portrait photographer.. In the studio I usually used manual mode. 125'th of a sec, F7,1 and ISO 100. And then I just adjusted the strobes. Outdoors I almost never use manual. Either A or TV (yes, I own mostly Canon). And auto IOS set at a max at 3200.
I use manual all the time and set my iso to auto this way I control the shutter and aperture and allow the camera to adjust the iso to get the correct exposure
Can I give a shout-out for shooting manual BUT with auto ISO set if your camera will allow it (my Nikon will)? You can then set both the aperture and the shutter speed as you think appropriate and let the camera take care of the ISO. Unless you're one of those photographers who stick to ISO 100 it really frees you up. Either set the max ISO to whatever you're OK with or set it to something insane and just keep an eye on it.
For me, it completely depends on what im doing. I go through all the modes dependent on what im shooting that day. Nowadays, i tend to only go full manual if it's a landscape, i love the calm, relaxed time of setting it all up. 100% agree with the automode if i hand it to my wife lol😅
Thanks for this. Well done. Been out of any sort of serious photography for a while because I travel a lot and don't want to haul gear around BUT 2 days ago I bought a Sony A 6400 c/w the 18-135 mm OSS kit lens. I'm carrying one lens only and this lens seems like a decent "do all" with certain limitations. So after shooting the same subject indoors with the same natural light at the same distance in Auto, then AP, then SP, with this lens, (auto WB and ISO) the Auto shot was crap and the AP and SP were far better. Years ago I shot mostly in AP mode and after watching this video and shooting this comparison I believe I'll go back to this. Now, to answer your question. My next issue is the myriad of auto focus functions available. So many. What do they do? When do I use them? Will my wife divorce me when her tea cup is in focus and her face isn't? This inquiring mind wants to know. Keep up the good work.
Very good question regarding the focus modes. That will be a whole other video to explain it! I'll add it to the list 😉👍 Hopefully the wife doesn't divorce you in the meantime! 😅
My best camera is Sony A7 iii at this time. I use manual mode. Often times I set a range for the ISO, say 100 to 5000. The problem I have if I set it for Aperture Priority Mode is often times the shutter speed is too slow. The moving images in low light (live music [usually no flash/strobe]) are blurry due to shutter speed being too slow. If I understood some comments correctly some of you are able to set a shutter speed range on your camera (s). As in for example on a given frame = 1/80 min to 1/4000 max. As far as I know I do not have that option on any of the cameras I have (Sony A7 iii, Sony A900, Sony A6400, and Sony A6000). thank you
Shutter Priority of fixed 1/180 shutter speed, Auto ISO, Auto White Balance, and variable exposure compensation setting for fast action models in an indoor fashion show with uneven ambient lighting on the catwalk, or ever changing light effects. For me, the transition between dim/ low lighting to bright indoor lighting with sports fast moving subjects will be best compensated by this combination of semi-automatic settings (off flash/ no flash used).
💡What other topics would you like to see in the next videos? 👇
Low light settings with people moving.
Thank you! 📷
a walk thru on how to take good pictures of objects
You can make a video about how shallow depth of field and different lens sizes work with portrait photography.
How to get optimal photos in sports photography
How to edit photos using Lightroom and Photoshop
Auto Mode: the setting to choose when you're handing your camera to a family member.
Not gonna hand my camera to anyone 😂
I feel stupid for never doing this before
Lol 😅
I don't hand my camera to family members firstly, and second, if a family member does use it, they are only using the wired or wireless trigger release and pressing it. They never touch the camera. EVER! lol NEVER EVER!
@@up-close I *used* to hand the camera to family members in Auto mode, but not since everybody in the family got smartphones!
I'm a professional photographer IE I support my family with my work. 90% of the time I shoot aperture priority with auto ISO with a minimum shutter of 250 (1000 for sports and action). The only time I use manual mode shooting is when I'm using flash or strobes.
I ditched manual a long time ago, now I am shooting in aperature priority, with minimum shutter speed set depending on the situation, and auto ISO, the only thing I touch during shooting is the exposure compensation dial.. this way I still have all the control I need, but I gain it a lot quicker!
Same here!
Nice to hear you have found a way that works good for you 👍👍
Me too!
This is the way
That is the exact setup I use most of the time. It works any time I'm not doing macro or night shooting.
I shoot 90% of my photos in aperture priority, both for still subjects and for action.
My teacher of the basic photography class was a professional event photographer and he said he uses aperture priority 95% of the time. That broke the illusion of 'you need manual mode' instantly for me and that really helped my motivation to continu. I'm really thankful that I got that info as a beginner back then because I'm also a 95% aperture priority person now not being distracted by anything else than what I what I'm actually capturing.
@@ThaGamingMisfit just please provide us a example of “Aperture Priority” 95% of the time?
I will agree, although I personally have not eliminated the other 2 sides of the Triangle! Although I do enjoy the thought of 95% Aperture if it can equalize the other 2 sides of the Triangle.
@@Triplebuc50 My teacher mainly did event photography, both indoor and outdoor. I'm an amateur and using AP feels very relaxing, there are very few cases where I regret using it.
For wildlife I've been using Manual with Auto ISO and that's worked great for me.
I shoot mostly bears and birds for my wildlife and find manual to be completely useless.......both subjects can move very fast from deep shade to open sunlight in woodland environments and there is never time to re-adjust or the shot gets missed. I personally love AV w auto ISO w my thumb kissing the exp comp wheel for instant corrections.
I find the priority modes are still too variable from shot to shot. And this is bad when editing hundreds of photos for a wedding. Plus if i have to worry about exposure compensation i might as well go manual. I usually shoot at 1/160 or higher (unless I'm using flash which let's me shoot slower) but i need to be in control of depth of field because i might be shooting a group versus an individual and in control of iso. I could limit the iso range for any priority modes but i find it just faster to adjust for the situation in the moment because there are times im going to have to "break rules".
Hey thanks for writing down your thoughts, really appreciate that! It's good that you have found something that works best for you and if it does the trick for you, then that's perfect! There's definitely not one mode that will do it all for everyone and for sure, in many of cases manual mode is the go-to.
Have you tried manual mode with auto ISO and then limiting the max ISO to something the camera is comfortable with?
We are trying nicely to help you out. Wedding shooter want to have consistency because it help in the back end processing. Try shooting a 2-4 day Indian wedding on different auto modes. you will spend extra hours because no two frames are the same. Does this mean there are not parts of the day you can use like program mode. sure. Plus flash work in more better in manual mode. @@SightseeingStan
Inside, for a wedding with very consistent light, that makes a lot of sense. Set it and forget it. But when you follow the procession outside, where the light isn't nearly as consistent, a cloud may roll over or people move in and out of the shadows, you will be constantly compensating (call it what you will), just like photographers using other modes.
Exactly. Shutter speed should always be set to the slowest possible given the conditions. So in dark conditions you only really have to adjust the ISO as your compensation variable because shutter will be fixed to avoid motion blur. And in bright conditions you can set ISO to base and use shutter speed as your compensation variable. In these cases you have one compensation variable so why use aperature priority if it still has one compensation variable, exposure compensation? The different modes can be a surprisingly similar amount of work to manage.
@@markarnold8308what do you charge to shoot a multi-day Indian wedding? Most wedding photogs in the west are at the event for 4-6 hours
Old school here. I began shooting in the 60s when knowing what you were doing was a valuable asset. Until the Nikon F3, I had never shot a 35mm camera on anything but manual. I do not use program mode and would not dream of letting the camera pick the ASA/ISO for me. Even with my digital cameras, they will be set on manual or aperture mode and a Sekonic digital spot meter has a place in my Domke bag..
60+ years as a professional with 32 years as a studio owner has taught me that there is always something new to learn! A very good, well thought out video!
If you are shooting in bright light, I find the manual mode with auto iso is the best. Especially if you are shooting moving objects as in wildlife photography. You can choose the best shutter speed and aperture, .iso will be automatically adjusted.
Auto ISO is not manual mode.
It can be@@jimmason8502
@@jimmason8502 you set aperature and shutter manually... you just let camera set exposure automatically and its for me the best solution....
I usually keep aperature wide open cuz i love that bokeh and that keeps ISO lowest.
Also if camera auto ISO is too high i can only reduce shutter a little bit and ISO goes down aswell, so i dont lose much quality of image.
@@jimmason8502 This is true, but with some camera systems you put the camera in manual and then set auto ISO, so technically you can say it's manual with auto ISO.
Whether the camera sets it or we do, we are always "forced" to use one of the three settings (aperture, shutter speed or ISO) to get the right exposure (or exposure we want), so one could make the arguement that in a way we are never 100% manual. We can set two, but the nature of photography will force the third on us if we want a certain exposure.
@@jimmason8502are you new to photography?
To me auto-ISO in manual mode is the best all around. I typically leave my aperture wide open (unless I need the extra sharpness or DOF) and usually just adjust shutter speed based on both light and subject. On DSLRs it was more of a pain, but with live view on mirrorless cameras there isn’t much of a chance to mess up exposure. In the outdoors with lots of sunlight I will usually just set my ISO to 100 and control exposure with shutter speed. So I am switching back and forth between full manual and manual with auto-ISO.
You might know already, but some cameras have ISO 64 and 100 but perform best at 200. Also if your camera has this option it adds to your way of shooting: You can set your camera to it's preferred ISO and also set a shutter speed slow limit (depending on how long a lens you're using) so that longer exposures than the limit set, are the point at which the ISO starts to automatically go up.
Usually, maximum aperture doesn't give the best results with any lens, try closing down at least one stop.
I also find manual mode with Auto ISO the best way to go. You get control over shutter speed and aperture at the same time usually getting an optimal exposure
Another idea in bright sunlight is to use A to fix your lens at its sharpest aperture. On my favourite lens this is f4 or F5.6
@@lorenzomoro1970 Hence why I said typically...also I buy expensive glass so I can shoot wide open and not care if I am wide open.
Been a wedding photographer for a few years now, started with manual and still use manual. Sometimes i want to do shutter drag and sometimes i just get a specific look that auto wouldn't allow me. It took some getting used to, but you quickly learn to adjust the settings. At this point, it would just feel weird to switch to auto, though i wouldn't knock someone who's just starting for using auto.
I use to shoot in aperture priority mode most of the time with exposure compensation and happy with it.
Sometimes I use shutter speed priority for certain situations like panning again with exposure priority.
I use manual mode with manual focus for astro photography only.
This is an excellent primer for using digital cameras. I've been using analog film cameras for over 5 decades. I know what I'm doing. Digital types - not so much. I've read the manuals, and ... blah blah blah ... I just forget. This vid really makes things a comprehensive review. Well done! No BS or nonsense - just the facts!
Do this if you are an action photographer, like wildlife and sports Set your camera to Manuel mode set your speed to freeze the action Birds for example 2000/ of a second, open the aperture to max for background blur then set ISO to AUTO! for best results this is the magic for sports and wildlife! And you will never miss the action! the camera auto selects the ISO in accordance with what you need to freeze the action! this is AUTO mode without the AUTO Mode!
Best video of the week! I’ve been watching seemingly hundreds of videos and this one was very handy and took the fear of a new camera a7iii away from me. Thank you! I’ll go try it out tomorrow!
Happy to hear it! 🙌
Didn't know that rule about shutter speed vs focal length when shooting handheld. Learned a lot, thanks
Someone finally explained it very well! Thank you
I'm glad you enjoyed the video, Dustin! Thanks for leaving a comment 👍
I need to set this information in a continuous loop to listen in my sleep.. thanks, Stan..
All anyone needs to take into account is the time factor. If you have time with no pressure then Manual is the way.
If you do not have time or you are out and about with your scene changing quickly then one of the semi modes would be the choice.
Studio work manual everytime.
Totally agree with that!
I mainly shoot in manual mode for the type of photography I do. In fact, I have to shoot in manual mode for some things. But there's times when the light changes too fast or I'm moving my camera around and the light changes that way. But instead of using aperture priority mode, I use manual mode with auto ISO. I prefer to be in control of 2 of my settings whenever possible. Aperture and shutter speed are the two most critical parts of the exposure. ISO is just an amplification of light or the exposure.
Agreed, and on some sports I'll lock down WB and ISO if I'll be shooting high FPS for consistancy in editing.
Wholly agree I shoot bands and auto modes are easily fooled by dynamic lighting changes. I would rather be underexposed by 1 or 2 stops than have motion blurred shots . I should also use manual focus more than I do to avoid the focus being spoofed by mic stands and drummers kit.
There's a reason that aperture priority was the default for film SLRs for decades. It makes the most sense for 99% of uses other than stroking people's egos.
My old Konica TC was shutter-priority. My Canon/Nikon buddies thought it was weird.
@@drumhaver223 They're fun to use! I really enjoy them
The 35mm format in cameras allow more options. Some of us that came from film are still left and learned how manual and a meter worked. Flash in those days were manual as well. Great training. I feel too many entering into the field want it easy and not have to learn the basics of light both natural and flash.
Very true, it's important to learn as much as possible. But it's great to have these different modes that can make that learning process easier! 😊
It's important to understand how each setting affects the image but if all they do is shoot random snapshots there is really no point in using manual. Time and time again I get shots thare 1/4000 with iso 6400 because they wanted to shoot manual while lacking the fundamentals
As one of those that started in the 80s with a fully manual mechanical film camera, I really appreciate shiftable program AE and exposure compensation.
Yea started shooting in the 70s so good training but because of that, It took me a while to embrace priority modes
Good advice. Learn how it works and why. But full manual is really a misnomer. For any given exposure you can set two things. The third will be forced on you.
I like full control of everything. I only shoot in manual mode. I don’t think just because manual mode you’re a pro. It gives you the opportunity to learn how to deal with every situation you come across. And for me I like full access of everything. That’s just me
I keep my camera in P if I have no idea what I might see ... it'd get me a first shot while I work put what'd be better then I just have to roll the wheel by the shutter to change the shutter/aperture balance.
Auto modes are great for changeable moments, but when it's all static, M is the best.
@@LMActionsports Am I wrong in suggesting Manual Mode is difficult in continuous ACTION, like Sports ?
TY! I used to teach beginning photographers. They usually said I shoot manual. When I asked why they would say pros shoot in manual. I’d say there was a time when that was true but in today’s cameras there are better modes depending on what look you want. To prove I’d let them shoot in manual while I shot in program. It usually took them at least 3 shots to get a good exposure. Case closed. From there they would listen to me.
When it's a lazy day and I just want to experiment I use the manual mode and study the results of my photos. But in stressful situation I use program mode. For scenes of seas, waterfalls, I prioritize shutter speed and for landscape, I switch to aperture priority.
I shoot weddings mostly in Aperture Priority, auto ISO and minimum shutterspeeds locked in. WB at 3500K indoors and 5500K outside.
All flash work is done in 100% manual
I don't have time for changing settings as I'd miss shots I wanted. I believe getting the shot and removing any inconsistencies in post is preferable to getting consistent shots and missing some.
I'm just getting started and bought a used camera without a manual and this video was so helpful for understanding these different settings!
Glad it was helpful!
The advantage to shooting in manual really comes into play when you are editiing. If all the exposures in a series of photos are exactly the same, then batch editing is a breeze.
Only applicable on a scene by scene basis where the environment is consistent or controlled.
@@phant0mdummy yeah this doesnt play so well when you have to move around
I am glad I eventually found how to use program mode with the other settings ! There are different settings for different situations . Program mode is a great compliment to the others ! The camera is a complete tool now ! Thanks for posting this !
Nice to hear you found the video helpful 👍
HELLO STAN!
I really enjoyed your video and what you do! Recently took your advice and did an experiment, we shoot with an Olympus E-500 with External Flash 1/250 f.8
at 400 ISO. EV Compensation is +2 points. Picture was nice, the Histogram showed image exposed properly! Did the same experiment with Auto ISO and the picture came out dark! So in my situation where we Photograph Rock Bands that are pretty much stationary with a little bit of movement by the drummer and colored LCD Stage Lights everywhere!
Manual 400 ISO is the preferred setting!
What a fantastic Video !! I’m still learning and just that rule about doubling your focal length for shutter speed I did not know !! This explains why my handheld shots of my child are so hit and miss when she’s moving around for getting a good focus. Thanks ever so much !! I can’t wait to try this out.
Glad it was helpful!
Finally, some light has been shed for me with this video. I make artisan jewelry and need to take photos of my product so I recently bought a new camera and some lenses. I am new to photography think point and shoot to mirrorless camera new. I know the most VIP for me to learn is the exposure triangle and get familiar with my new mirrorless camera button function and settings.
I have watched many YT videos and I take lots of notes. This is a learning curve for me and I am enjoying this part of my journey, but it wasn't until I watched this video you made that let some "Light" in. You made it easier for me to understand the different Modes function on my camera.
I know one day I will look back and wonder why it seemed so confusing at first. Thank you I am a new subber. I appreciate your video/s Angel from The Bay Area, Silicon Valley, CA USA
Glad you liked the video 👍
In Sony P mode, it is an override mode where the camera chooses everything, but you can override whatever you please. If set to auto ISO, you can choose both f-stop and shutter speed. So it can be fully automatic, or you can choose two of the modes manually and let the camera do the rest. Manual mode is for controlling all three.
Other brands have different implementations.
Yes. Setting ISO to a fixed level and let the camera do the rest is IMO one of the easiest ways to work fast with a camera and ensure that you have at least great quality.
It works with basically all cameras that way. Even with the most basic pocket cameras. They will just look awful if the camera goes above ISO 200.
As a landscape photographer, when I shoot handheld, aperture priority reigns king when I know the slowest shutter speed will still give a sharp image, however when focus stacking and other forms of blending, its much easier to shoot in manual while on a tripod.
Nice 👍. When people tell me “I only shoot in manual” I usually wonder, if they know what they are doing. It sound to me as if they actually want to say “I am a great photographer”. Why are there P, A, S, M and auto iso on every pro camera?As you perfectly explain: For a reason! 🤩. One of the few situations where I prefer full manual without auto iso is indoors, when the room light - once measured - does not change, in order to achieve consistency in a series of pictures. Like what you would also do with a hand held light meter and measure the light source - not the reflected light (as the camera does).
There are people who were told to shoot manual to they put the wheel on M but do not know to set the parameters so they get random results.
When in manual mode you do not have to control all 3 sides. You can use auto ISO on manual. It is used by sports photography all the time.
You are correct, auto ISO is pretty great to use when in manual mode
@@SightseeingStan It's not manual mode if you let the camera change the exposure for you, it's auto ISO mode.
@@jimmason8502if it's not manual mode then why the hell would Nikon call it manual mode? Auto ISO is a menu setting on most cameras and not a wheel you can spin like shutter and aperture anyway. You're thinking of the term "full manual" which isn't a mode, it's in reference to being in control of the full triangle manually.
That being said I shoot manual mode with auto ISO a lot and only go full manual if I'm in an environment with lighting that never changes.
You are both right. Technically, if you are allowing the camera to set any of the equation AUTOMATICALLY you aren't shooting in manual. However, some camera systems require that you put the camera in "manual" mode in order to access auto iso. Thus Nikon says you are shooting in "manual" mode with "auto" iso. Technically a contradiction in terms! Who cares? As long as it works for you? I usually shoot in Flexible (fv) mode on Canon. 90% of the time I am using it as auto iso, I set the shutter and aperture. I sometimes say I am shooting manual with auto iso. I sometimes say I'm shooting in flex mode. I sometimes say just auto iso. Who cares what I call it, as long as I don't call it late for dinner! And it works!😂
I love your stage, background color, lighting!!! Your camera angle is different than everyone else's!!!! I love it!!! ❤
Thanks 👍
Aperture mode for portraits and sports! Shutter Priority for concerts! Done!
Sounds like a good plan! 👍
Thanks. I never used program mode, but sometimes it's exactly what I need. For instance, a few weeks ago I was walking around central Rome. The light was constantly changing, and there were lots of shadows. I gave up and just put it in auto mode because I didn't have enough time to make manual adjustments every time while navigating the busy streets. I would have had the time to make a single adjustment, though, to capture what I wanted.
Haven't done manual mode since the old 36mm days. I usually use A or S mode. A when I want a specific aperture, aka depth of field and S when I want to freeze or blur moving subjects. Cameras are pretty good these days and fill in the blanks and it's so much quicker to get the right setting for a good shot. When doing stationary subjects I tend to take several photos with different settings just so I have more options later in post.
Thank you it sounds simple the way you have described it but I still can’t get the numbers into my head everyone explains differently ,I have watched lots of videos ,maybe I am just to old being over 70 I am practising with av but still have a lot of blurred photos maybe I need a try pod. I don’t want to do a lot of photography it’s just I bought a Pentax years ago a k500 which possibly wasn’t the right choice, but it fit my hands well to grip onto I always used auto but because it’s winter. I had a lot of time on my hands and decided to start to learn to do it in Manual mode, but found that there was too many parameters so tried p and now av Thanks 😊
I had a coworker who swore by Program mode and loved it and he did a pretty decent job getting photos, but as an old timer I had so much trouble trusting anything but M mode. I started when we were shooting B&W and developing our own film and my camera at the time didn't do well in tough lighting situations so M mode was all I used. I couldn't even trust autofocus until I bought a Sony A99.
Everyone will definitely have their own prefered way of shooting. Whatever works and gets you the results is what's best! 👍
Well explained use of each mode. Every new photographer should see this video. Even long time shooters would find this video handy like a refresher course.
Appreciate that! 👍👍
this was a very helpful video. much appreciated!
Glad it was helpful!
I’m a flash studio photographer. Manual is all I use as the others are worthless when full control is needed based on the settings my 7 - 9 strobes are running. When shooting outdoors in available light I’m using either priority mode or manual using a remote camera control app.
I use full auto often. especially with events. My alternative is to set a manual exposure and to adjust the shutter as needed. Auto is especially useful out of doors for events if the light keeps changing - so sun in and out of the clouds.
Full-time commercial photographer. Only use manual. Not that makes it right or wrong. Prob 90% of my jobs I shoot tethered so it is so easy to fix things quickly. Also, sometimes I am sharing zoom / remote screen and I want to cut down the "bad" images before someone else gets to judge. Today cameras are so incredibly good at adjustments I can see how using Priority Mode makes some jobs that much easier.
Agreed! There is no right or wrong. Everyone has their preferences and workflow. But some jobs can for sure benefit from some of these modes 👍
The full auto mode is needed in two cases: 1. for beginners, to be quite sure they're not gonna blew it; 2. for the situations where the absolute priority is to shoot "in no time".
It still is better to use P though maybe if you have set back button focus then full auto would be a good way to disable it temporarily.
I use TAv mode most of the time and I get excellent results. I set the shutter speed and aperture and the camera will select the iso speed.
The video did not cover this mode, although it is a useful one.
8:24 QUESTION: According to the rule if I'm using 35mm lens the shutter speed while shooting handheld should be at least 1/70. But if I'm using that lens on a crop sensor then for example on NIKON a 35mm would be an equivalent of 50mm lens (actually 35*1,5 = 52,5 but whatever). So if shooting on a crop sensor is that the focal length that should be used in that equation? So 35mm * 1,5 crop = 2x focal length which would mean that 35mm lens would still be a minimum of 1/100?
Good question! It would still be a 35mm lens, the crop doesn't change the focal length. Think of it as the crop would be like you would crop in your image in Photoshop.
Ah... ok, thanks for the answer@@SightseeingStan
Wayyyyyy overthinking that for a 35mm prime lens..
@@RafalBorowskiWhen setting shutter speed to negate camera shake, the important thing is the field of view. So a 35mm lens on an APSC size sensor will have the field of view of a 52mm lens. The minimum shutter speed should generally be the reciprocal of your focal length, or on this case, you're effective focal length (relative to a full frame sensor) or 1/52. So, if you have 1/50 or 1/60, use that. This is the first place I've ever heard to use TWICE the reciprocal of the focal length, but faster is better for reducing the effect of camera motion.
depends on if you have ibis/lens stabilizer. if not yea, usually twice the focal length.
Been Manual mode for many years now I have moved over to Aperture Priority and will only go back in certain circumstances.
I LOVE shooting in full manual, but it's not always the right mode to use. Today I went out shooting with a friend who's interested in photography, so I gave him my backup camera and explained some things as we went. Full manual is a lot of fun, but it takes me longer to get the shot when I also try to talk to my friend and get the settings in the camera correct at the same time. Manual with auto ISO is something I also really like. But today was an aperture priority day. I figured if we both were in the same mode and could swap cameras, it would be the easiest. I also set the minimum ISO to 400, so we'd have less blurry shots while still getting very clean images. Also it snowed a lot over the past days, so I set both cameras' exposure compensation to +1 stop. When considering you kind of have to do that, full manual doesn't make much of a difference anymore. But even if I didn't, it's still just 1 stop which is easy enough to fix in post.
We both had a lot of fun and honestly, I don't think there were more than a handful of shots I would've gotten a lot better with manual settings
I have a Canon m6 mark II. I use FV mode. I set ISO to auto. Now I really can control Aperture and Shutter Speed. It's all on the touchscreen. No more finding the right button. I use back button focus in auto-focus or focus peaking for manual focus. I learned how to use my Canon SL2 in manual mode, I rarely use manual anymore.
When I shoot in a studio, I shoot manual becasue I am controlling the lighting. When I shoot outdoors or at an event, I choose a priority mode. E.g., aperture priority if I want to maintain the same depth of field whatever shutter speed the camera picks. Took a while for me to realize that.
how about with the flash when the environment keeps changing
how about with the flash when the environment keeps changing
@@白-u6d It depends, I have used HSS for fill flash at times. It's good for softening shadows in bright sunlight.
And yes you can but I prefer not to use flash outdoors except in the example above when the Sun casts a shadow on the subject's face due to a hat.
@@jefffiore7869 which mode you prefer to use with flash. for my self i used manual mode but for some time the sunlight is keep changing so need to keep checking the expose. it annoying me
@@jefffiore7869 my flash mode is manual and my try to use tv mode but the expose are not constant darker or brighter. i need some way that can more convenient when using flash
Manual mode with auto ISO for me. Too often I find needing aperture priority and shutter priority within the same photo shoot, sometimes even just brief moments apart. Too cumbersome to switch back and forth. Manual mode is quite quick and easy. Not sure why anyone would avoid it. But, to each his own. There is no “wrong” approach
If you are experienced enough to use it, Manual with auto ISO is the best way to have full control over the results. Combined with ETTR (Expose To The Right) you also have full control over the lowest possible noise level, even with high ISOs. Which results in the best technical quality of your pics.
Excellent explanations using Aperture, Shutter, Manual and Program modes. Tia!
Glad it was helpful!
I have found that by using Auto ISO, You can set your aperture to give the depth of field you want, & then set a fast enough shutter speed to suit the scene you are shooting. This is probably only available on the more advanced cameras. When looking through the view finder you can see the ISO changing as you pan around. ISO changing as the metereing looks at different reflective light value.
Thanks for sharing these excelent and very clear explanations!
Glad it was helpful!
I shoot landscape and critter photos and use Aperture mode. Typically F8 for the critters to give depth. And low F with low ISO for landscape to even out the darkness and brightness.
In the old analogue days you didn’t change iso, that was fixed in film so professional photographers changed f stop and shutter.
The only thing that is important! Is the final result! Not what you know! Not using the best camera gear etc! That is the key! I can back that up 100's of times!
Thank you soooo much I haven’t found a good video till you ima new photographer😅😅 but thank you soo much for this explanation😊❤
Happy to help!
I like playing with manual mode to get a feel for how everything affects the shot, but I always have to take a few throw away test shots before it's dialed in, and that simply can't happen whenever I need to shoot things that might happen in the spur of the moment. Like child and pet photography. If I have to move around quickly at different angles, the light sources can change a lot and I have no room for taking test shots all the time.
I don't mind the camera having to make quick ISO adjustments on the fly, but I do usually like to lock in my shutter speed (or at least have a minimum to reduce blur, I don't go below 1/80 when handheld if I can help it) and aperature.
What would be cool is to set min/max ranges and then have auto adjust within that. Like if aperature below 4 isn't desired, and shutter below 1/80 isn't desired, or ISO above 2400 or whatever. This way I can avoid the camera going to extreme ends of any of the settings, that would be interesting.
Another caveat of automatic OR manual settings is when a flash is introduced. If you have a speedlight or a special flash on or off the camera, then automatic exposure settings won't work since the camera doesn't know about the huge flash about to enter the scene. Unless I'm mistaken or maybe my camera doesn't have the right settings, when I use flashes, I pretty much have to go manual.
@sightseeingstan Wooooww, I learned a crap load from this video! Im so happy I learned something from TH-cam, I thought I B was going to have to take a class with someone to sit down with me and take me step by step! Thank you so much! 🙏🏾❤️
Glad you enjoyed it!
Manual if you want total creative control, all other settings if you are amazed by everything that comes out of your camera right now. You will know when it’s time to switch lol.
manual with a handheld meter - that way you'll be in charge of exactly what is being metered. most cameras do some kind of averaging thing or some kind of 'smart' metering thing.. but who exactly set up this 'smart' metering pattern and what were they shooting? what's smart for landscapes is not so smart for street photography - for instance
Manual mode - great when there is time to adjust. When running and gunning.... one of the more automatic modes are better.
For me Manual mode with auto iso is magic.I have full controll over 2 of the most important things, and i let the camera handle the iso. You need experience to use it properly ofc.
Thank you for this video...from an ABSOLUTE beginner!!!!
Glad it was helpful! 👍
@@SightseeingStan Do you have any videos on editing monochorme using Lightroom? Thank you!!
and....are you on Instagram?
9:10 Don't forget, in those bright daylight situations, if you want a slow shutter speed (e.g., for silky-looking waterfalls), and the aperture won't close down any further, and the ISO is at its lowest possible setting, you can still prevent overexposure with the appropriate neutral density (ND) filter. Why these aren't just built in to stills or hybrid cameras (especially for video where shutter speed should usually be a constant double-the-frame-rate, or 180 degree, setting) is beyond me.
Optical quality perhaps? Pros often dont use variable ones.
Professional video cameras (ENG style) do have built in ND filters, right in front of the image sensor. I guess the reason they are not built into photo cameras is available space.
@@Havanu81 Maybe someone should send Sony the memo then, b/c they have that in their midrange FX6 cinema camera, and I think in their higher-end FX9 as well.
@@ebinrockFX6 and above series cameras are often used in a reportage/documentary setting or for lower budget small screen ad campaigns where pure image quality matters less and the crews are small. The big boys mostly use RED or ARI cameras, and have an assistant and a seperate focuspuller who take care of batteries, lenses, footage and filters. Hence the lack of build-in ND's for those bodies.
And yes, mirrorless cameras tend to prioritize size over features, which is also why they lack XLR inputs and better screens/EVF's. And rigging becomes a necessity to get the most out of those sensors. Which is something I actually like a lot, the modularity is what makes them so versatile to carry and operate in different circumstances.@@generalgrafx
Thank You, very detailed explanation in an easy to understand manner.
Glad it was helpful!
Good explanation. But one thing I never see addressed in these videos is the impact of Image Stabilization on minimum shutter speed selection. That is, can the 1/100th speed with a 50 mm lens be say 1/15th with a four stop IS camera?
Of course IS helps, the minimum shutter speed is just a rule to keep in mind. You can also just focus on keeping the cam steady when shooting at lower shutter speed. It's the knowing that matters.
What? 1/100 s is 1/100 s. How could be 1/15 s? That make no sense. Now you will have to learn what shutter speeds you can use with and without IS. I typically use 1/60s without and 1/30 s with going longer if needed. Those are times where I feel confident to get a shake free shot with a single shot.
You are a good teacher. Thanks
Great presentation... clear and to the point
Glad it was helpful!
This video was very helpful. Thanks so much.
Glad it was helpful!
THANKS FOR TAKING US BACK TO BASICS! :)
You bet!
Thank you for this video!
Thank you for showing all this on a Sony, I dont compare a phone with a camera, but your vid helped me to understan (better) the Xperia 1 V camera menu. Thank you for tips !
Do digital cameras always take movies in Auto mode? Thanks.
I can shoot in manual mode but usually only do it for Astro photography, OR if it’s a low light area and I want a specific look that the camera’s computer doesn’t auto do. Other than that I think aperture priority is best
Nice 👍 Yea manual for astro is key!
I shoot with auto ISO. I set the shutter speed and aperture. Camera auto sets the ISO. This gives me creative control depending on the conditions, then bracket exposures.
Around 0:55 you state that manual means you have to set "Aperture", "Shutter" and "ISO" manually. At least on my Sony camera (7RV) I shoot in manual with e.g. "Aperture" and "Shutter" set manually while "ISO" can still be auto. For landscape I usually use aperture priority, but for e.g. portrait photography where I want to take control of bokeh/dof and exposure I always use manual mode with either ISO set to auto so I can check if lighting is correct or set manually if I want to underexpose to a certain level. There are many cases where neither aperture nor shutter priority will work because you loose control of either shutter speed (moving objects in frame?) or bokeh/dof (foreground/background separation?). I think it's really bad to recommend aperture priority for e.g. wedding photography, because the camera will often use way too low shutter speeds for people moving the slightest bit in non-ideal lighting situations and you would get photos full of motion blur. In this case using manual with e.g. aperture set to 2.8, shutter to 250 and ISO to auto (you don't always need ISO 100) is a good way to go. I know you can also go for aperture priority and choose a min. shutter speed next to ISO on auto, but then you aren't far away from using manual anyway.
I always shoot fully manual - except where I want to focus on one or two things and let the camera do the rest.
High contrast scenes such as dance performances are a speciality and because you usually have bright subjects against a dark background, you set aperture and shutter speed and only adjust ISO manually as the lighting varies.
If I pull out a tripod for Macro, I switch to live-view DOF preview - set the aperture, stay in Av and let the camera decide on shutter speed - unless I need to freeze motion or wind shake. Squeeze the right ISO for the conditions in Auto ISO - unless I can't freeze my subject. Backup plan is HSS flash.
The key isn't which mode you are using but what you are trying to achieve. If full auto does it - who am I to say it's wrong. Just apply your attention to where it will make the biggest difference and use the technology where it can speed your creativity up.
Execute whatever you've practiced and are good at! - or practice it if it's worth getting good at.
Great tutorial for beginners.
Glad you think so!
It is good to learn what the P mode does in your specific camera. On my EOS M50 it keeps the shutter speed at 1/60 s or shorter. This means I use it with lenses without IS but not with IS lenses when it is dark. On my older EOS M it is 1/30 s so I did just the opposite. I think the camera should decide it based on whether you have IS or not.
On Canon cameras you can set the camera so that if you in the shutter priority mode select a too short shutter speed, it will lengthen it until the exposure is right. On mirrorless cameras you can detect if the shutter sped s way wrong on the brightness of the viewfinder or the screen. (This can be disabled if needed)
From a professional PJ that has shot anything and everything, and often on the same day: Pros shoot manual or aperture priority. Either full control or if shutter speed is not a concern, depth of field control. Auto mode and program modes mean giving up all control (and results in very boring photos). Shutter priority means giving up creative control of DOF. Again, resulting in boring photos. Auto ISO is also a no-go as this can create different looks from shot to shot (noise levels, and depending on camera, color shifts from ISO to ISO) making editing a hassle and batch editing impossible. Set a reasonable ISO for the situation and work with it. Being a pro is all about consistency and consistent outcomes.
Really sick work during the Manual section at the end
Summed up nicely - depends on the situation you’re in. But I’d also might add it depends on what you’re shooting with as well. For example, I shoot a lot of worship services and concerts. My first digital camera shooting those events was a Nikon D5000 and my lenses were not fast and though it was a capable camera, in those situations A and S mode were challenging. The exposures were either off or the image quality not good due the high ISO so for me manual mode was a better option. I shot manual for those events with the D5000, D300 and the Sony a6000. When I got the Sony a7ii and better lenses several years later I still shot manual yet it was largely because I was accustomed to it by then. When I got the 7s I kind of split between manual and A mode but now that I’m on the a9 it’s almost always A mode for the same events yet I will switch to manual if I run into a situation during the shoot where I think I need it. What I’m shooting with now is far more capable than my three early bodies and lenses so A mode for me isn’t a big deal it comes down to choice for whatever I’m dealing with but back then for what I was doing manual mode was a necessity. I wouldn’t necessarily say that pros always or not always shoot in manual but that they evaluate each situation they are in and make a determination on using manual mode or figuring they can get away without it - depending on the creativity of course.
I normally shoot in auto ISO and sometimes in aperture priority. Great video!
Nice! Thanks for leaving a comment 👍
I'm not a pro photographer but I normally shoot auto or aperature priority then go to to manual if I want a specific shot or effect.
Nice! 👍 What do you shoot?
Great video, very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
I started digital back in 2006 using P mode then 10 years later I went to Av mode..every once in a while M mode, now this year I am starting M mode with auto iso
Manual mode is helpful when the light does not change in the scene. You set it once and then take all pictures with proper exposure.
That is true 👍
Which usually doesn't happen outdoors with wildlife! When that fox kit runs into the shadows during a burst, it's nice to know that, while the exposure may not be perfect, perfect, it will at least be in the ballpark giving me a usable image.
I find for my wildlife photography manual mode with auto iso works perfectly well with the changing light conditions. When a bird pops in and out of the open/shadows auto iso keeps up well. May have to adjust the exposure compensation accordingly for small adjustments
my preference is manual mode with auto iso and exposure comp wheel.
Exactly my preference too.
Manual mode
- One wheel for speed
- One wheel for aperture
- One wheel for exposure compensation
- Iso Auto
Manual mode is for unique situations in a studio only.
I used to work as a portrait photographer.. In the studio I usually used manual mode. 125'th of a sec, F7,1 and ISO 100. And then I just adjusted the strobes. Outdoors I almost never use manual. Either A or TV (yes, I own mostly Canon). And auto IOS set at a max at 3200.
yes I also set manual and auto iso
I use manual all the time and set my iso to auto this way I control the shutter and aperture and allow the camera to adjust the iso to get the correct exposure
Thanks for sharing! Great way of shooting as well
Can I give a shout-out for shooting manual BUT with auto ISO set if your camera will allow it (my Nikon will)? You can then set both the aperture and the shutter speed as you think appropriate and let the camera take care of the ISO. Unless you're one of those photographers who stick to ISO 100 it really frees you up. Either set the max ISO to whatever you're OK with or set it to something insane and just keep an eye on it.
Yep for sure! Good point 👍
For me, it completely depends on what im doing. I go through all the modes dependent on what im shooting that day. Nowadays, i tend to only go full manual if it's a landscape, i love the calm, relaxed time of setting it all up. 100% agree with the automode if i hand it to my wife lol😅
For future videos - can you show us how you film, and get that onto / into your editing software. So simple but not for a beginner 🙌🏼
Thanks for this. Well done.
Been out of any sort of serious photography for a while because I travel a lot and don't want to haul gear around BUT 2 days ago I bought a Sony A 6400 c/w the 18-135 mm OSS kit lens. I'm carrying one lens only and this lens seems like a decent "do all" with certain limitations.
So after shooting the same subject indoors with the same natural light at the same distance in Auto, then AP, then SP, with this lens, (auto WB and ISO) the Auto shot was crap and the AP and SP were far better. Years ago I shot mostly in AP mode and after watching this video and shooting this comparison I believe I'll go back to this.
Now, to answer your question. My next issue is the myriad of auto focus functions available. So many. What do they do? When do I use them? Will my wife divorce me when her tea cup is in focus and her face isn't? This inquiring mind wants to know.
Keep up the good work.
Very good question regarding the focus modes. That will be a whole other video to explain it! I'll add it to the list 😉👍 Hopefully the wife doesn't divorce you in the meantime! 😅
My best camera is Sony A7 iii at this time. I use manual mode. Often times I set a range for the ISO, say 100 to 5000. The problem I have if I set it for Aperture Priority Mode is often times the shutter speed is too slow. The moving images in low light (live music [usually no flash/strobe]) are blurry due to shutter speed being too slow. If I understood some comments correctly some of you are able to set a shutter speed range on your camera (s). As in for example on a given frame = 1/80 min to 1/4000 max. As far as I know I do not have that option on any of the cameras I have (Sony A7 iii, Sony A900, Sony A6400, and Sony A6000). thank you
Shutter Priority of fixed 1/180 shutter speed, Auto ISO, Auto White Balance, and variable exposure compensation setting for fast action models in an indoor fashion show with uneven ambient lighting on the catwalk, or ever changing light effects. For me, the transition between dim/ low lighting to bright indoor lighting with sports fast moving subjects will be best compensated by this combination of semi-automatic settings (off flash/ no flash used).
Holy crap this video just made me understand how to work my Sony camera!!!