Hi Bob, I came back to watch your easy to understand instructions as I have a leaking bathtub faucet with hot water. I have been a subscriber for many years and even spoke with you on phone about a bigger plumbing problem where you helped me and I was able to complete the project, so thanks again and keep up the good work, and God bless. Shahzad
OK , Bob, well done sir. I particularly liked your tip on leaving the valve stem "fully open" when inserting, and what would happen when you didn't do this. Well, Bob, I didn't leave it fully open and I am doing this again but I understand why now ! Thank you !
OMG, thank you for this video. I was led to believe I was going to have to cut a big hole in my wall to get to all of this stuff. Now I know the tools I need to do it right, to do it simply, and without having to slice and dice my wall. THANK YOU!
Bob - great video thank you. Question I have a Pfizer three-way valve. The old one I’m replacing is upside down. I’ve read that this matters but I can’t seem to understand why! The new valve instructions say absolutely nothing about the orientation! I have a new one that I’m installing with the same issue. Does installing the valve body upside down matter one way or the other? Shower and tub are specifically stamped on either side of the diverter valve body. Why wouldn’t they make this usable in both directions I don’t understand!! So simple question - does it matter whether it’s installed upside down? Thank you
If you install the shower body upside down you will have to rotate the diverter stem to allow the water to flow from the tub spout (normal position). When you install it in the correct orientation the water normally flows from the tub spout, when you rotate the diverter stem it flows from the shower. In order to drain down the shower riser pipe you'll still have to place the diverter in the neutral position in order for it to drain. ( same as when installed in the correct position).
@@BobsPlumbingVideos - thanks for the awesome reply. Appreciate it. I guess I’m still confused though. The way I see it and I’m probably missing some thing - The shower is normally counter clockwise and the tub is normally clockwise when installed right side up. When installed upside down the shower will be clockwise and the tub will be counterclockwise. I don’t see any issue other than the reversal of the diversion with functionally how the unit works. In either case you still have to go to the neutral position to drain the water in the riser to the shower. So bottom line it appears to make no difference whatsoever other than reversal of where the shower position is and where the tub position is. Correct? Thank you
Hey Bob great video. Quick question. I removed my cold stem as instructed in the video. When I went to remove the seat there was none. Just a round flat something in there. Shouldn't there be a seat? Thanks!
Hi Bob, your video is so clear and easy to follow. My question is, could I replace my shower faucet handles with a different brand from the one installed? Are those stems and seats universal sizes for the 3 handle types? My existing faucets are from price Pfister and would like to replace with a different brand.
Hi Bob, I enjoyed your video. I just installed a new Gerber 3 handle faucet and it drips for about 30 seconds after its shut off. Would you have any suggestions for how to fix that?
Bob, I have a Price Pfister 23078 shower valve manifold. It leaks behind the wall at the base of the diverter where it meets the manifold while in the 'tub mode' but not while in the shower selection . Does this suggest that my diverter should be replaced again?
From your description (bear in mind I can't see what your seeing) I would replace the divert-er. This valve is similar to the Gerber valve in the video. If the gasket that sits up against the valve body or manifold as you call it were compromised, it would leak regardless of the tub or shower position.
You cannot, must be manufacturer specific. Take a look at this link, www.kissler.com/Downloads/Faucet%20Stems_B.pdf. You may be able to identify who's part it is.
mine drips cold water. after replacing the right stem, it stopped for a day but then started to leak again. took it out and put it back in. still leaking cold water
Thanks for a quick reply. I did, but part 2 does not address that specific age issue. By old, I mean at least 30 years old. Recently my utility sink faucet had to be replaced do to the valves being seized and not removable do to corrosion. That might be the issue with these bath tube valve stems. If it turns out they have seized what option(s) to loosen them might there be?
Comozo I’ve worked on these shower and tub valves that were 25/30 years old and as far as I can remember I was always able to remove the stems with the deep sockets featured in the video. Our water in N.Y. Is pretty good and have very little calcium and or mineral build up which can be a problem in some parts of the country. Sometimes I’ll get lucky and the valve body is set forward enough that the stems aren’t buried in the wall. I can then just use a channel lock or pipe wrench to remove them.
Which threads are you referring to? In general I don't use Teflon on the threads of faucet stems because they usually come with some kind of fiber washer like the one in the video. You have to make sure you don't loose it when you're removing the stem from the wall. I use the silicone lube to make the parts easily make up and or remove them in the future. I also will lube up the entire stem before installing it just for smoother operation .
Hi Bob. I just installed a brand new 3-handle faucet and the diverter doesn't seem to allow air into the pipe after turning off the shower so the pipe never empties and it will still be dripping 24 hours after turning it from shower mode to tub mode. Would this be an issue with the diverter cartridge or the plumbing that the valves screw into?
With a three valve shower body it's always good practice to place the middle diverter in the neutral position so the shower riser can empty. If you don't, you may find an annoying drip util the shower riser empties. If you're sure the riser is drained down and it continues to drip, you most likely have a leak on the hot or cold water side of the shower body.
What is you have a leak in the wall.? I have this going down into my kitchen. I didn’t think to change the seat? I did change the washer but still had a leak I the wall.
If you have a leak in the wall, the seat has little to do with that problem. Seats will keep the faucet from dripping. For a leak in the wall, I would look to make sure the packing nuts are tight and not leaking. Also, make sure no water is getting in around the chrome sleeves. You make have to caulk all openings around the three stems.
Our shower has a 3-way and the hot water was leaking a lot of water. We bought new parts because we ruined the brass using pliers to turn the hot water on and off. After installing a new seat, valve stem, and new handle, the stem becomes loose and/or unthreaded when the water is turned on. Any suggestions as to why this is happening?
When installing a stem, make sure it's in the fully opened position so it can fully be tightened. If it's in the "halfway" position, you won't be able to fully tighten it and it will back out of the shower body.
I use to drill out the screw and re-tap the stem. In todays world, I just break off the handle and install a new stem and handle. Much more cost effective unless you have the time!
my daughter has a three valve shower, the hot and cold both leak when we try shutting them off and the diverter doesn't divert enough water to shower head, so I replaced the rubber washers, the still leak and they get tore up fast. so I replaced both seats but they still leak. also replaced entire diverter valve to push more water to shower, but my daughter thinks all water should be going to shower but some of it is still leaking from spigot, so she bought a new diverter spigot to help with shower flow but she is not satisfied, I am going out of my mind
This video is specific to the Gerber brand which has removable seats. Some manufacturers do not have seats that can be removed. If they don’t come out, you would need a seat dressing tool. That’s a subject for another video.
Hi Bob, I came back to watch your easy to understand instructions as I have a leaking bathtub faucet with hot water. I have been a subscriber for many years and even spoke with you on phone about a bigger plumbing problem where you helped me and I was able to complete the project, so thanks again and keep up the good work, and God bless. Shahzad
THE PHOTO USED IS A DECEPTION, CAN YOU PLEASE MAKE A VIDEO ON TO REPLACE THE WHOLE VALVE UNIT BEHIND THE WALL?
THANK YOU
OK , Bob, well done sir. I particularly liked your tip on leaving the valve stem "fully open" when inserting, and what would happen when you didn't do this. Well, Bob, I didn't leave it fully open and I am doing this again but I understand why now ! Thank you !
I learned the hard way as a young man Brooks! Thanks for watching! Regards, Bob.
OMG, thank you for this video. I was led to believe I was going to have to cut a big hole in my wall to get to all of this stuff. Now I know the tools I need to do it right, to do it simply, and without having to slice and dice my wall. THANK YOU!
Bob - great video thank you. Question I have a Pfizer three-way valve. The old one I’m replacing is upside down. I’ve read that this matters but I can’t seem to understand why! The new valve instructions say absolutely nothing about the orientation! I have a new one that I’m installing with the same issue. Does installing the valve body upside down matter one way or the other? Shower and tub are specifically stamped on either side of the diverter valve body. Why wouldn’t they make this usable in both directions I don’t understand!! So simple question - does it matter whether it’s installed upside down? Thank you
If you install the shower body upside down you will have to rotate the diverter stem to allow the water to flow from the tub spout (normal position). When you install it in the correct orientation the water normally flows from the tub spout, when you rotate the diverter stem it flows from the shower. In order to drain down the shower riser pipe you'll still have to place the diverter in the neutral position in order for it to drain. ( same as when installed in the correct position).
@@BobsPlumbingVideos - thanks for the awesome reply. Appreciate it. I guess I’m still confused though. The way I see it and I’m probably missing some thing - The shower is normally counter clockwise and the tub is normally clockwise when installed right side up. When installed upside down the shower will be clockwise and the tub will be counterclockwise. I don’t see any issue other than the reversal of the diversion with functionally how the unit works. In either case you still have to go to the neutral position to drain the water in the riser to the shower. So bottom line it appears to make no difference whatsoever other than reversal of where the shower position is and where the tub position is. Correct? Thank you
Hey Bob great video. Quick question. I removed my cold stem as instructed in the video. When I went to remove the seat there was none. Just a round flat something in there. Shouldn't there be a seat? Thanks!
Hi Bob, your video is so clear and easy to follow. My question is, could I replace my shower faucet handles with a different brand from the one installed? Are those stems and seats universal sizes for the 3 handle types? My existing faucets are from price Pfister and would like to replace with a different brand.
Unfortunately not, they're all brand specific. I learned hard way! LOL!
Just the video I was looking for, well put sir. Can I use plumber's putty to cover the space around the stem?
I do if it's not and overly large opening, in which case I'll water based use silicone caulk.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Got it thank you!
Hi Bob, I enjoyed your video. I just installed a new Gerber 3 handle faucet and it drips for about 30 seconds after its shut off. Would you have any suggestions for how to fix that?
Assuming everything is OK with the repairs, It going to trickle for a minimum of 30 to 45 seconds before it comes to a complete stop. Normal stuff!
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thanks Bob : )
Bob, I have a Price Pfister 23078 shower valve manifold. It leaks behind the wall at the base of the diverter where it meets the manifold while in the 'tub mode' but not while in the shower selection . Does this suggest that my diverter should be replaced again?
From your description (bear in mind I can't see what your seeing) I would replace the divert-er. This valve is similar to the Gerber valve in the video. If the gasket that sits up against the valve body or manifold as you call it were compromised, it would leak regardless of the tub or shower position.
Excellent video easy to understand thank you very much
Thanks for checking it out, much appreciated!
Love your videos very educational. You stated you were going to do a video on diverter valve removal but I don't see it.
You mean this ? th-cam.com/video/KjmAZjfpEq8/w-d-xo.html
Thank you
Great tips. Better than my tech school back when
Thank you Sir!
Lifesaver with this video.
Hope it helped you out!
Can you replace one brand of stem with another? I have no idea what kind of stem I have? Is there a way to match the threading?
You cannot, must be manufacturer specific. Take a look at this link, www.kissler.com/Downloads/Faucet%20Stems_B.pdf. You may be able to identify who's part it is.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos thanks. That pdf stem catalog helped me identify my problem child.
@@nickguitarguy1 Excellent!
Back again here after a year. I noticed there's is a hole on the left side of the wall where the stem goes. Wish I can send you a picture
You can, send it to : info@robertsessaplumbing.com
mine drips cold water. after replacing the right stem, it stopped for a day but then started to leak again. took it out and put it back in. still leaking cold water
Do you have a video instructing how to remove old stem valves?
Did you check out part one of this two part series? Should be a link in the description below the video.
Thanks for a quick reply. I did, but part 2 does not address that specific age issue. By old, I mean at least 30 years old. Recently my utility sink faucet had to be replaced do to the valves being seized and not removable do to corrosion. That might be the issue with these bath tube valve stems. If it turns out they have seized what option(s) to loosen them might there be?
Comozo I’ve worked on these shower and tub valves that were 25/30 years old and as far as I can remember I was always able to remove the stems with the deep sockets featured in the video. Our water in N.Y. Is pretty good and have very little calcium and or mineral build up which can be a problem in some parts of the country. Sometimes I’ll get lucky and the valve body is set forward enough that the stems aren’t buried in the wall. I can then just use a channel lock or pipe wrench to remove them.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thanks. I live in MD. Water here is on the low side.
Bob, is there a general rule when to use silicone lube and when to use teflon (PTFE) tape on the threads?
Which threads are you referring to? In general I don't use Teflon on the threads of faucet stems because they usually come with some kind of fiber washer like the one in the video. You have to make sure you don't loose it when you're removing the stem from the wall. I use the silicone lube to make the parts easily make up and or remove them in the future. I also will lube up the entire stem before installing it just for smoother operation .
Hi Bob. I just installed a brand new 3-handle faucet and the diverter doesn't seem to allow air into the pipe after turning off the shower so the pipe never empties and it will still be dripping 24 hours after turning it from shower mode to tub mode. Would this be an issue with the diverter cartridge or the plumbing that the valves screw into?
With a three valve shower body it's always good practice to place the middle diverter in the neutral position so the shower riser can empty. If you don't, you may find an annoying drip util the shower riser empties.
If you're sure the riser is drained down and it continues to drip, you most likely have a leak on the hot or cold water side of the shower body.
Should I use teflon tape on the seat threads? Some of the videos I've watched show using teflon tape on the seat and the stem threads.
Gretchen, as a rule I don't unless I suspect an issue with an older shower body. It won't hurt to use Teflon, so go for it! HAPPY PLUMBING!
where do I buy the 3 way pfister shower valve? Are they all universal or do I need to check my old ones model number?
Try faucetsdirect.com, faucetdepot.com!
What is you have a leak in the wall.? I have this going down into my kitchen. I didn’t think to change the seat? I did change the washer but still had a leak I the wall.
If you have a leak in the wall, the seat has little to do with that problem. Seats will keep the faucet from dripping. For a leak in the wall, I would look to make sure the packing nuts are tight and not leaking. Also, make sure no water is getting in around the chrome sleeves. You make have to caulk all openings around the three stems.
Could this be a reason why the water doesn't goest off?
Our shower has a 3-way and the hot water was leaking a lot of water. We bought new parts because we ruined the brass using pliers to turn the hot water on and off.
After installing a new seat, valve stem, and new handle, the stem becomes loose and/or unthreaded when the water is turned on. Any suggestions as to why this is happening?
When installing a stem, make sure it's in the fully opened position so it can fully be tightened. If it's in the "halfway" position, you won't be able to fully tighten it and it will back out of the shower body.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos, Great...thanks for your fast response. We'll try it as you suggested and I'll let you know the results...thanks, Bob.
Thanks Bob. I can do all of it. Problem is to finde parts. I need seed.
Thank you for your detail and well thought out videos. You helped me a lot
Thank You Wilson, I appreciate you checking out my videos! Regards, Bob.
Thanks so much Bob! Wish me luck!
Good Luck!
What if the handle screw can’t come off..then how to remove it..thanks
I use to drill out the screw and re-tap the stem. In todays world, I just break off the handle and install a new stem and handle. Much more cost effective unless you have the time!
@@BobsPlumbingVideos thank you very much
my daughter has a three valve shower, the hot and cold both leak when we try shutting them off and the diverter doesn't divert enough water to shower head, so I replaced the rubber washers, the still leak and they get tore up fast. so I replaced both seats but they still leak. also replaced entire diverter valve to push more water to shower, but my daughter thinks all water should be going to shower but some of it is still leaking from spigot, so she bought a new diverter spigot to help with shower flow but she is not satisfied, I am going out of my mind
Send a couple picture's to info@bobsplumbingvideos.com. I'll see if I can help you!
Thanks Bob. I'll give it a try.
🏆
what if there are no seat screws? all i see is straight pipe . SOS.
This video is specific to the Gerber brand which has removable seats. Some manufacturers do not have seats that can be removed. If they don’t come out, you would need a seat dressing tool. That’s a subject for another video.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos I appreciate your time. Thete are no seat screws. just straight pipe.
nice video,thanks in advance
+Mario Rowland You're Welcome!
god bless thank you
Thanks Richard, glad I could help! Regards, Bob.