Don't Ruin Your AMS!! Bambu Lab X1C 1 Year Review!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- Bambu Lab is having their 2nd Anniversary Sale so I know a ton of people are getting brand new printers! I've had mine for a little over a year now and I've learned a TON about this printer, including advice on how to take care of your AMS and be hassle free!
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I bought the A1 mini during the anniversary sale!! I'm so excited to receive it in the mail soon!
It’s a great deal.
It's believed the AMS fuel gauge works by measuring the distance of filament used between full rotations the RFID tag makes.
This is my understanding as well
I get the fuel gauge showing even when I have no BL filament in the AMS, it never changes though!
From my understanding it finds the tag in a certain spot, then shoots filament down to the ams hub sensor, it knows what that length is and counts the revolutions of the tag to work out roughly how much is left
Thats brilliant!
Perfect timing. I was just looking at these and needed a good review.
You're the best ❤
I use the “X1C Hotend Quick Swap Plug grips” (3d printed from Makerworld) which make swapping the nozzle on the X1C much easier, the grip provides a handle to grab the JST connector so it can be pulled out without additional tools and not pulling on the wires. The Fan cable had been giving me the most trouble before I installed the grips.
Unplugging is easy, for me too it's plugging back in the fan cable, the ribbon cable never wants to line up right the first time
This is my favourite comment I've stumbled across on TH-cam. Nothing is cooler to me as a designer than randomly finding people who like your design.
Great video. I just got the P1S combo and man I love it. Amazing prints just out of the box.
I have about 8000 hours between my 2 X1Cs. Using cardboard spools for 90% of printing. When they get low, drop an 8oz ball bearing in the hub. You MUST clean the interior of the AMS during your monthly maintenance. (You ARE doing monthly maintenance, right everyone?!) 😊
I’m getting the hack rf case, looks great
Yeah it's fantastic!
I enjoyed the video! I too was surprised at how much faster and easier to use than my retired Robo R1+. It’s a game changer. The software/firmware was great to start with and continues to get better. I have a Kickstarter X1C with AMS and have 1700 hours using the Cool Plate for PLA printing. I used Windex as the release agent from day 1. The original Cool plate is on sticker 2. I also have a second Cool Plate now which comes in handy for large prints. I pull the plate and start another print while the other cools down. Removing large prints from a cold Cool Plate cuts down on the bubbling of the sticker. I have an unused Bambu PEI Plate; early on I thought I might need one, but the Cool Plate works just fine. From what I can tell I believe I spend less time cleaning and prepping my build plate than PEI users. Windex is fast and easy. I wash the plate with soap and water occasionally.
I have had ZERO problems with the cool plate sticker I put on a year ago. It is still useable and with zero damage and around 2000 prints on it. Just recently did I finally pull out my textured PEI and I love that as well, and neither have ever given me a single problem and this was my first printer.
I to migrated from Creality the CR10s though. The Bambu X1C has been a compete game changer for me too and I couldn't agree more the most reliable I've ever owned too.
you can use a plastic ring to go over the edge of the cardboard spools so that the ams can grab it better by the rollers.
Few month ago I bought P1P because I want to print the pwnagotchi case. I love that printer!!
The fuel gauge is an estimate of the outer diameter of the filament bundle. A large roll will have a larger diameter of the bundle of filament. A smaller roll vice versa. It tracks how many meters of filament per rotation (detecting the tag, not detecting, then detecting it again) and by doing some math and a lookup chart for BBL spools, it gives estimates
It's in the name. The cool plate will not heat up a room as much as any other plate. If it's summertime, cool plate is what makes the difference between a 72 degree room and an 80 degree room. Also I use windex on the cool plate and it works great. no glue needed.
What filament brand do you mainly print with?
With the Holo plates sometimes I get a glass like finish but then sometimes I can also spot some layer lines, I picked Textured PEI in the settings as I read that a little more squish is applied when using that plate, it did not solve the issue.
Have you any idea how the Z can be adjusted to achieve a little more squish to the plastic?
I've got about 1000hrs on my P1S in about 9 months (I use it a lot, lot of long prints etc), and I've been printing and building printers since late 2011 and I can say a few things on it having had a few issues in that time (some self inflicted and some due to design issues with it). In terms of clogged AMS, I've never had to go to a teardown of it but I have heard people find it easy enough to do (I do a bit of a dance of removing any other rolls, ejecting the PTFE from the printer and then finding where it's bound up and getting it to feed backwards).
In terms of cardboard spools - they don't leave any residue behind tbh, I just had a look in my AMS after going through maybe 16 rolls of filament in a row of cardboard and there's nothing in there dirt or dust wise. They are in printed rings though - some slip when trying without them. the cardboard is the same stock as the centres of the polymaker rolls that bambulabs use. If you're fine with the abrasion they take from filament there's no real issues with the whole cardboard ones imho. They also don't bounce when they're nearly empty either, at least no more than a plastic one or a Bambu one. Lots of manufacturers do refills in the same way (BambuLabs weren't innovative in any way here), even on cardboard spools or self printed spools!
The measurement thing is on the Wiki - "The RFID reading process can also be used to estimate the remaining filament. The working principle is to estimate the percentage of the remaining filament on the spool by the length of the filament sent out after the RFID tag on the spool rotates a full circle. The complete 1kg filament roll is 100% capacity by default."
If there's a takeaway here - don't be afraid of cardboard spools, sure there's no fuel gauge, and you might need some rings, but they are recyclable. Also, print the silica gel inserts for the AMS, take them out and microwave them (take the gel out and put into a microwave safe container and be careful they get VERY hot) when it starts showing moisture on the BambuStudio/OrcaSlicer/hygrometer or prints go weird. They really work well.
Oh and give the carbon rods a wipe from time to time, it's good to remove the dust.
@TalkingSasquach what do you think about controlling an hackrf1 through the flipper zero?
1100 hours deep and I love it
Also gold pei is disgusting 😂
Liquid glue is good and cool plate is good ❤
Thnx for the love
850 hours?! You need to step it up my friend, I've had mine for almost a year with over 2,900 hours! 🤣🤣 And I work out at sea for over half a year, so basically I've printed 2,900 hours in less than 6 months. 😁 But it's all good, just teasing, thanks for the video. 😁
Agreed, I need to step up my game!
That printer ran 66% of the time in that 6 months.
😱
@@recoveryguru When I'm home from sea my printer runs constantly. LOL.
5:48 By using the cool plate you reduce your typical electrical bill consumption. I don't use it, but I know that for some folks that's just an enough reason.
I'll buy this as a genuine positive for the cool plate.
My new P1S came with the gold plate
I love that plate!
The only benefit of the Cool Plate is when you're doing precise tolerance PLA parts. The average user won't notice a difference because most of us don't use it for that.
Fun fact, when I was doing high-detail first layer prints on my holo-plates, I did use the cool plate settings. The thing is that you don't actually need the cool plate to use the cool plate settings.
@@TalkingSasquach I'm talking specifically about elephant's foot. Since the Cool Plate is so cool, you generally don't get any of the potential elephant's foot like you may with the other plates that require hotter temps.
Don't get me wrong, 99% of the time, I used the textured gold pei plate. You just asked to be convinced about the cool plate lol
great video
Only thing I would recommend is keep up with maintenance on your carbon rods. Mine failed around 1500hrs and I cleaned them a decent amount. It wasn’t a super fun replacement but I got mine back up and going and it prints like new again.
Good to know! I appreciate you!
4:29 the image is incorrect for bambulab hotends, there isn't a thermal insulator as proposed.
Yah, kinda just got a generic hot end diagram, you are entirely correct.
Do we get your top must have prints ?
Just bought p1s and ams is jamming all the time with the bambu spools that came with the printer. Now Im waiting for the ball bearings which i ordered to weigh the spools down. Hope it will work.
6:15 What about z-offsets? The textured pei is set to -0.02mm as default. So if you by chance should select another plate in the slicer than textured pei / high temperature plate and have the texpei on the bed you would be 0.02mm too high for proper adhesion.
for users like me who run a custom start gcode to have different offsets for different filaments for specific plates (alot of else ifs ;) disabling the buildplate detection will render this entire work moot.
good energy in the video sir :)
Cool Plate at 45°C sticks like Hell
Try Nano Polymer, it’s awesome and doesn’t really leave any residue.
Nope, i never used card board spools in my ams units. They’re always broken anyway. They were an early rushed plasticity afterthought to the X1 i guess. The ams lite is so much better. It just works.
Good god those cases are legit!
are new portapack videos coming?
I'm working on getting my amateur radio license for that
Where can i find the hack rf case print files? Thx
makerworld.com/en/@ZR_CrackiiN/profile
Iirc Textured plates can’t be used with auto flow calibration, which is the only trade off worth paying attention to
True but you can do that one time before and then use it
nice shirt
Just use soapy water, ever installed vinyl decals, stickers, tint,etc?
For the cool plate just use purple glue stick
i would love to have a 3d printer but they cost too much
You can get a Bambu Lab A1 Mini for $200 right now!
I only use to cool plate to save on electricity on long prints, but yes it sucks. Have to use glue stick on it every time or it really sucks trying to get bits of PLA off of it.
My P1s only reads one of the four slots at any given time. No clue as to why.
Bro! You need 3D LAC instead of any glue stick. 1,000x better than anything else I have tried. It sprays on like hair spray and prints just pop off. Best thing I ever used for bed adhesion.
Also, Hydra mod is the best upgrade for ams! It lets you use smaller spools with 4 different spots for the rollers.
And as for the fuel gage. Each roll has a serial number and when you send a print to the printer, it uses the estimate generated in Bambu studio or orca slicer and subtracts that from 1000g if it’s brand new.
No i believe thats not correct, i have the opinion my x1c printer can somehow measure a used spool
Textured PEI ftw.
I run the AMS light with Polymaker spools. I have yet to have a major issue.... yet.
Yeah with the AMS light, you do rock any spools is my understanding
@@TalkingSasquach I have seen some people complain about issues. Hopefully I don't have any, so far so good!
Hi
Hello
Do Kali Linux content
Bambu lab won't get my money until they remove the requirement that all prints go through them.
Print on LAN mode and you're basically offline
POPCOIN😋
wadiyatalkinabeet?
@@TalkingSasquach yenayenayenaye
First!
Ok you won😢
On an alt!!!
First again and second
You where not first
Great job!
Bambu support is shit, in Europe atleast.
Sure, their support is great if you're an "influencer" or otherwise get free stuff from them. Talk to regular people and it's not quite as rosy a picture. And absolutely Apple being closed keeps me and other people from ever using their stuff.
If you're ever interested in donating old stuff to me. Id appreciate it. I'm broke.
I hate the glue stick and am more of a tape guy haha BUTTTTTTT IMO why a dual side gold plate 🙄🙄 im ONLY bitching because the TPU sticks wayyyyy to good im sure other reasons but even a cold plate with a roll on glue and set of sheets......................... for $1500 HELL even just a gold / cold plate out of the box....
For cardboard I used 1inch side maskingtape and im sure it will be fine that way. I do have the nicer inland carboard spool though too...
Yeah, agreed that dual gold is a bit redundant. I have all of the Bambu plates so it's not a big deal, but it would be nice if it was dual sided