Elite Direto Xr - issue - creaking, cracking - how to fix (repair)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- Elite Direto XR - creaking, cracking - repair, how to fix
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Wow. I was ready to order an XR when TH-cam presented me with the video and now I'm not sure. Seeing all the comments that it is not uncommon on Elite models makes me doubt my decision. It's not that the procedure looks complicated but I don't feel like opening the guts of my future trainer to do this because Elite didn't do a better job in the factory.
I could go with the Elite Justo. The higher price point might give the illusion quality control is better too but what is the guarantee to that?
Going with a Wahoo Kickr is still a step up in price and I don't think I want to spend that kind of money on a trainer. I'm in doubt here on what to do.
Thanks for the helpful video though.
I went to buy a trainer without getting to know the experiences of other users. So I was quite surprised when it broke after a few months of use. I took it for granted that I came across the wrong piece.
Finally I bought a Wahoo Kickr V5 which I got at a substantial discount on account of the fact that there is already a V6 since a year and there is even a new model Kickr Move. The difference between the 5 and the 6 is negligible so I did a good deal. Added bonus: the V5 has been out since 2020 so all structural kinks have been worked out giving me (hopefully) a trainer which I can enjoy without issues for a long time.
Thanks again @stanislav for your very instructive video
hört sich doch normal an und gut, als Kinder haben wir das extra so laut gemacht :D
Danke für's Video
Had mine for 2years. Cost just shy of 700£ which looking back was alot. Nice video makes my issue seem nothing to moan about. One thing im impressed is the fact this how to guide for this trainer is brand new! After two years of sweat the steel arms of mine direto is well rusted. So im touching them up with black hammer right metal paint! Thanks for the video! Happy cycling all ❤
There is an elite video explaining how to fix this issue. It is almost the same but without gluing the metalic pulley to the axle (they use loctite only for the small washer)
Some link to it, I'd love to see it.
Got a link?
Loosening the pulley nut as you did at 2:00 is a big no-no. Elite says to stop the rotation by holding the top pulley, at the hub. By doing it like you did, you are putting all the torque directly through the power meter which can very easily break or get damaged. It is only a thin rod about 4mm diameter and designed to twist slightly during accelerating the flywheel against the electromagnetic forces, not withstand torques presented by potentially seized nuts. Same goes for tightening at 7:00.
The axle is certainly not a thin rod with a diameter of 4 mm. Only the hole into which the quick release goes has a diameter of about 5 mm. The diameter of the axis is about 14 mm. It is a thick iron rod as seen in the video.
I would like to ask you for a link to the ELITE statement described.
@@stanislavpjatak That is only the part you see :) Behind the bearing it becomes narrow so that it will twist slightly under load. The amount of twist is measured optically to give a power reading, super accurately. It is a precision measuring device. You can see it here th-cam.com/video/6djcdU6WW0E/w-d-xo.html
Even if you are lucky and don't break it, it could plastically deform and throw off the accuracy.
@@hakonhalldorsson6673 Thanks for the link. The thin axis in the middle surprised me. From now on, I will be afraid to really step on the pedals during training. 🙂 In my case, the nut was undertightened, so I didn't need to exert much force to loosen it. I also didn't use a lot of force when tightening.
In the official video from ELITE th-cam.com/video/dMPX54XJsfc/w-d-xo.html they proceed in the same procedure as me, so probably the axle can withstand such pressure and will not deform. However, I will add a warning to my video.
@@stanislavpjatak Thank you for the Elite link. It is a year old, newer than when I carried out my repair. Surprising, I must say. The email I got from Elite guiding me through the steps said to leave the belt on and hold the big flywheel steady so no torque is going through the power meter. Also surprising that they don't specify a max torque tightening the nut and screw, but have a 2NM max on the small stop screw for the belt adjust pulley :) It is still good to know how things are built so that one can be careful when needed :)
i am looking to buy one and seeing here how easy it is to open and "fix" in case of small issues makes me wanna go for this one. at least now I know where to look in case anything goes wrong. nice video!
Thanks, I'm glad I helped
Obdivuji tvou odvahu se pouštět do takové opravy. Samozřejmě s tím padá záruka. Ale i po záruce by bylo lepší vymenit to opotřebené pero na hřídeli, než vytvořit nerozebíratelný spoj. Může to zkomplikovat další servis.
Tak trochu som bol k oprave donútený. Hneď po kúpe robil trenažér mierny hluk. Chcel som to vyriešiť cez reklamáciu, výmenou za nový kus. Nedalo sa to takto urobiť. Trenažér som mal poslať a čakať ako to dopadne. Či mi ho vrátia opravený, alebo pošlú peniaze. To pre mňa znamenalo byť týždne bez trenažéra. Tak som to nechal tak a jazdil. Hluk sa však postupne zvyšoval. Začal som to riešiť s talianmi s Elite. Posielal som in videá, oni mne rady v čom by asi mohla byť chyba. Poslali mi orech na výmenu, upravoval som nastavenie magnetov... Nakoniec som chybu odhalil. Napísali mi že to mám prilepiť. Takže neviem ako by to bolo so zárukou, keďže oprava prebehla so súhlasom výrobcu.
Rozmýšľal som aj nad výmenu pera, no nešlo vybrať z hriadele, poškodená bola aj drážka v pastorku. Tak som sa rozhodol pre lepenie.
@@stanislavpjatak Vypadá to, že pánové v Elite nemají technické vzdělání. Zapomněli na možnou výměnu ložisek na této hřídeli. Četl jsem o velmi malé životnosti těchto ložisek. Chtěl sem teď koupit Direto XR, ale asi zkusím jiného výrobce. Když jste komunikoval s centrálou Elite, kam jste měl odeslat Direto na servis? Do Itálie nebo prodejci na Slovensku?
Trenažér používam intenzívne (300 hod/rok) 3 roky a ložiska zatiaľ v poriadku. Reklamáciu som komunikoval s predajcom na Slovensku. Mal som to poslať im a ani by to následne poslali do Talianska. S technickým oddelením Elite som iba riešil možné príčiny hlučnosti.
Díky moc za info. Ještě zvážím co koupit.
Why glue it's unfixable after and it wouldn't last as long as being a steelwedge at a hardwarestore
The steel wedge was there from the factory and did not last. It worked out as you can see in the video. By taping it, the squeal was fixed, and I don't think I'll have to take the pinion off.
@@stanislavpjatak i saw but that would not last because the glue is so much softer than the steel my tip is to bye wedge steel can bye bye the meter or piece just round it of and it fits .
During the repair, I considered the possibility of using a steel wedge, but since there was an uneven groove inside the pinion, I could not make a wedge that would fit exactly there. That's why I decided to use glue. The glue is all around, not just in the groove. It is well fixed and after 18 months of frequent use the trainer does not creak. The repair served its purpose.
Great job !
However, if quality control had been done properly this trainer shouldn't have been shipped out without corrections.
Even the people doing the assembly could have easily spotted the issue.
I guess the were so much in a hurry to take advantage of the increased demand caused by the pandemic that they've cut corners.
It really shouldn't happen
thanks for the video. Do I understand correctly that something is missing in the construct for fixing? and because of this, clicks, whistles and unnecessary sounds?
It looks like a similar problem. Only whistles at a power of 300+ and a cadence of 90+. And it taps loudly when the voltage is released
I think that the pinion was not properly tightened during production and therefore gradually loosened and deformed. The pinion made those popping noises when it hit the wedge.
Ahoj. Mám otázku ohľadne tohto tvojho servisu. Chápem že to čo si urobil pomohlo ale otazka je že keďže si to nalepil epoxidom nebude neskor problém vymeniť ložiská? Ďakujem za tvoju odpoveď
Ahoj. Neviem Ti presne odpovedať. Možno sa mi podarí dať pastorok dole, možno sa bude dať oska vytiahnuť z opačnej strany... Ďalším možným problémom bude vytiahnutie a následné vloženie ložiska ak je tam nalisované. Ak taká situácia nastane, tak ju budem riešiť a urobím z toho video.
Hi, Im facing the same problem with my Elite Direct X and its getting louder. So glad I found the answers here. What is the glue that you were using? Can you recommend the type and brand cuz I need to repair mine cuz its so noisy that i can't do early morning rides without waking my family all up....
Hi, I used a two-component epoxy glue - Pattex. However, you can use other similar ones.
I'm having the same issue... Elite should be more carefull with the quality of their products!
How was the calibration affected after this fix? Any changes to power read out compared to another power source? I have the same problem though not quite as bad as yours...yet,
I dont want to mess up the tension setting if I do this fix. Thank you for the video!
After the repair, I calibrated the trainer and did not notice any changes compared to the state before the repair.
hello, i have a problem removing the body. i removed the nut with a 17 mm spanner but it won't come out of the flywheel. do you know how to solve the problem?
The problem with me was that the pinion was loose, that's why it was making a sound. If you can't get it down, it probably won't be loose and it shouldn't rattle, so I don't understand what the problem is.
Thanks for video. I too have same issue with my new Suito-T trainer. Let us know how your trainer goes with this repair.
The trainer works correctly after 7 months of repair.
@Roy-ud1db did you fix yours as well? I'm about to do it on my Suito as well. Let me know how it went and if it fixed it. Thanks! 🙏🏻
@@MiguelAugusto1982 Yeah, i sent mine back, and bought an XR instead.
You should calibrate your trainer after moving tensionernof the belt 😉
I calibrated it.
Funny kookaburra sound! Thx for maintenance!
I didn't know kookaburra, so I heard the sounds it makes and it's really similar
Hi, can't you make another woodruff key or shim it out in the grove then wedge the pully back on.
Hi, making a wedge and milling a new groove is more complicated for me. I don't have the necessary tools for that.
what is the size of the wrench/spanner required?
I don't remember that anymore. After disassembly, you try and choose the right one.
Thanks for sharing, is the beer optional? :)
Beer is mandatory :)
Would it be possible to remove it in the future after epoxy?
I hope there is no reason for that, but I think it will be possible.
Very helpful video. Thanks. How long had you used the XR before those noises appeared? Interesting. Similar problems with the Kickrs which have a similar construction. From experience, I know that Wahoo likes to send their units out from the factory with the belt too tight, obviously leading to premature bearing wear/noise. This situation is different. Kudos. Good fix. Just ordered a new XR. Will keep my fingers crossed. Regards.
Slight noise appeared immediately after purchase. I dealt with it with support and they wanted to replace my trainer as part of the claim. However, the replacement was supposed to last approximately one month, which was a very long time for me without a trainer. That's why I continued on a little noisier trainer. However, the noise gradually increased and after half a year, when the noise was already high, I decided to fix it.
The screw on the pinion was probably not properly tightened from the factory.
I'm trying to do this and the nut on the flywheel comes off but not the silver pulley. I'm not sure how to get this to work correctly.
Please write me the time in the video where I solve it, so that I know more precisely what it is about.
@@stanislavpjatak At 1:51, the nut on the flywheel comes off easily and the other nut stays in place for me.
Now I understand. Try to enable it by holding the big black wheel on which there is a V-belt. If the V-belt slips, tighten the tension pulley.
@@stanislavpjatak The nut is on there way too tight. I tried and I can't get a grip anywhere near good enough to hold the wheel in place. I'm going to try JB Welding the nut on the flywheel side. Not my favorite thing to do but if I can't get this fixed, I'll have to buy a new trainer anyway.
Ahoj, tiež mám Direto a pri miernom uvoľnení ťahu je počuť puknutie. Myslíš že to bude ten isty problém?
Ahoj, mne to rapčalo neustále nie iba po uvoľnení ťahu, takže to asi bude niečo iné. Ak by sa puknutia zosilňovali, alebo boli častejšie, tak by som rozobral len pravý kryt a pozrel či tam niekde nie je vôľa.
How long of a use and estimated hours/distance before this issue appeared?
It appeared right after the purchase. At first it cracked softly, later more and more. I assume that the screw was not tightened enough from the factory.
Than the factory didn't use the correct steel for their axelwedge next time you get a new one att the hardware store och steelsupplier that is a special steel but not expensive it's commonly used i every axel from small to extremely large ones
🍺@4:28 👍
I think I've certainly let my one go like this for too long
Me too, for a few months. That's why it got so bad there.
@@stanislavpjatak
I just finished servicing the trainer looks like it was successful fix,
The only thing different I used JB weld as the epoxy.
After this I did a complete re calibration of the trainer as I believe once you changed the belt you must recalibrate the unit
why u put epoxy ?
I have good experience with epoxy in various strong joints
No no no, need a new woodruff key! Or shim it out tap it back on tight. I
I do not understand what you wrote
it's a joke, not a propair repair. Glue doesn't have mechanical properties to whitstand forces generated by drivechain. Such a fix gonna break down after after few less than 30-50 hours of intensive training.
Wrong, it's repaired and functional. I fixed it in April 2021. Since then, I have been training on the trainer for about 240 hours. The trainer works flawlessly. A year after the repair, I will open it and check and record a video about it.
There are lots of types of applications for epoxy on vehicle repairs. I imagine this part with a human driving it should hold up quite well. SUCKS, but should hold up to a human's power output.
The key should be a tight fit in the keyway. Just looking at it you can see the gap. Poor quality control.
BTW this is like the BB30 fix with bearing retainer compound. It lasts about a year. The world isn't perfect.