Simple, don't use cleats, use clips, as in the olden days. Then you can even walk if you wish without fearing of slipping or falling over or having a waddling style walk.
With my size 50 feet, other factors come into play when fitting cleats. Things like not hitting chainstays or the front wheel when cornering. Maybe Conner can do a video on fitting cleats for riders with big feet.
Check out the position of cleats on your current cycle shoes - fore/aft and angle. Use this as a guide to the placement of the cleats on your new shoes. And here's another tip: I've done a lot of long distance cycling, and have found that moving the cleats farther back relieves "hot foot" by transferring the contact point to the widest part of the foot and reducing pressure on nerves in the foot.
I think it would be more of a coincidence if you had just been given a unicorn and were trying to learn how to shoe it. GCN is generally streamed to cyclists
With the current 24k views of this video and, let's say, an average cyclist changes his/her cleats once a year, there are 67 viewers of this clip who are changing their cleats today.
Good tips. Thank you. On the cleat bolts I use thread lock instead of grease. I have had the unfortunate experience of having a couple of bolts drop out of the cleat while riding, leaving me with only one left. Unclipping was impossible because the cleat just spun on the one bolt. Very dangerous and it proved to be quite embarrassing. It caused me to fall over while attempting to unclip and then flail around like a beached fish until I could get my shoe off my foot. Quite the sight.
Great video...... been putting on my own cleats with years but when I was new to cycling and needed them replaced...... I asked them and I never had ANY knee problems then or now!!! But this just speeds up the whole process for me!!! Thanks 😀
A great video for someone who has never worn cycling shoes before (Don't tell anyone but I used toe clips for years). The advice given in the video is perfect. Everything was aligned and secured, I was clipped to my pedals and set off to explore this new world only to end up in a heap on the floor having not got more than 2 meters still attached to my bike!! So funny. All the gear and absolutely no idea. :-)
Learning to get in and out of cleats is an adventure. You know what else was challenging after I thought I had built up my confidence with getting in and out of the cleat? Doing it while going uphill LOL!!!
I thought that all SPD-SL cleats were the same. Boy did I ever find out differently. I bought a pair of Bontrager shoes, had them fitted with SPD-SL cleats which came with the pedals. Fast forward to many rides and countless GCN TH-cam videos on just about everything (the answers to all of learning curves), I decided to invest in power meters. I purchased a pair of Garmin RS200 SPD-SL power meters. They arrived yesterday, so I thought I would just be changing out the pedals and off I would be with using them. Not the case. The Bontrager cleat shape is different from the Garmin shape. Which brought me to watching yet another fabulous video for do-it-yourself cleat installation.
My feet roll in towards the bike due to years of football ankle injuries - to prevent this I now use adjustable insoles to support the bridge of my feet. This has stopped the issues I was having plus my knees now track properly when cycling. One of the benefits of having a proper bike fit session.
Something I didn't hear you say that I would say is more important than anything. Once you have fitted your new cleats if you had no issues with your shoe/cleat position previously then when you mount up and your trainer pay attention not only to the way you look, but do you feel like you want to turn your foot. Or you feel like you need to adjust your foot. Or your knee feels a little tight. I find if you pay close attention to this you will be able to dial both cleats in perfect your legs and knees will tell you exactly where they need to be.
If you are not a pro rider or someone who is chasing marginal gains the easiest way to place your cleats in a position that is kind to your knees is to smash the fore/aft as far back as possible (closest to the heel). This will give less leverage on knee/achilles tendon. The most important part is the angle of the cleat, the trick to sit on a bench with your knees at 90 degrees and feet floating in the air is a good starting point to realize the natural position of your feet. But the easiest way to know that your angle of the cleat is correct is to be on the bike and make sure that you have equal float for your foot to move both in and out in all positions in your pedal stroke. I.e. wiggle your heel left and right at top of pedal strike, quarter past, bottom and quarter to and make sure you have float in all positions.
The best bit of info for me was dangling your feet to see if the turn inward or outward and the appropriate adjustment. That will protect my knees I think.
A pretty good video except 1 thing. The claimed loss in efficiency when bringing the cleat futher back is just false. Bringing the cleat futher back stabilises the ankle joint, limiting the degrees of movement there. This can benifit the efficiency for some riders, it only limits short jump intervals.
Only drawback to having the cleat further back, even as far back as you can get it, is it may hinder you being able to pedal at high cadences. But the average rider shouldn't be trying to emulate the super high pedaling cadences of some of the pros anyway, as they may not benefit as much due to their general lower fitness level and aerobic capacity. Otherwise, it won't cause you injury, as inaccurate placement further forward might.
@@achn2b couldnt agree more. I have seen some riders with their cleat pretty far back spinning at 105 rpm, but that's quite rare. It can trigger problems for people having slight leg length differences (because the footangle can provide some wiggleroom there) but having the cleat too far forward is a far greater risk.
Moreover in short riders riding short cranks the further back cleat position will lower the saddle height and allow a more aero position. If on a tt bike the furthest back position is the most powerful
This. I place my cleats (or feet on flat pedals) far back to relieve stress from my achilles tendons on long endurance rides and while working full time as a bike messenger. Being as comfortable as possible as long as possible is priority in these situations.
The Look cleats shown in the video have a rubber plug in the middle, which can be screwed to the sole and stay there when you have to change cleats next time. So no need to draw on your shoes just to keep the position with new cleats.
Very useful, thanks! You'd think there'd be some rule of thumb for cleat position, like say one-third along the shoe or something, but I've never heard of one so always just guess. I'd never thought of actually feeling for foot bones!
... I use "MTB" Shimano cleats ( cause I like being able to walk at the rest-stops or into buildings as sometimes you are not allowed to w/ "road-bike shoes/cleats) ... now ... a trick ... after you have installed the cleats ... remove the inside "footbed" ... and cover the slots on the inside w/ tape ... ( I hate wet socks from walking in damp grass in the morning)
I use 5Nm torque. I got to this figure by tightening to what I would describe as tight using one of those blue handled Allen key, rode an hour and tightened, repeating 3 times you get to the stage it doesn’t nip up a bit. They don’t work loose at that and will come out easily even when the bolt head is damaged from walking on it! That measured 5 Nm.....just checked. Now I’ve got that figure I don’t need to fanny about again lol
I use 2 bolt SPD cleats and 4nm when first fitting to new shoes, then ride, adjust, ride etc... and when happy with position I tighten them to 5nm. I haven’t had any problems with removing them later (even years later) nor any becoming loose at all.
Worth saying having your cleats too far back is NOT inefficient. There have been a few studies that showed no efficiency loss with having your cleats along way back. Many bike fitters will tell you there are nearly no disadvantages to a very rearward clear position. Adam Hansen and Alex Doswett’s both have their cleats quite far back.
It is still below freezing in Idaho Falls most of the time, but I saw the first road cyclist of Spring today! I'm a velomobile (no ice on the road) or fat tire (ice on the road) commuter. I'm not a road cyclist. Road cyclists only come out when there is no chance of ice, and they pedal ultralight UCI legal triangle bikes that have nothing on them. When the snow and ice arrives, they all disappear while cycling commuters continue to pedal on. So, I know Spring is on the way! The road cyclists are starting to come back!
Instead of using grease I use clear silicone glue on my cleat bolts, this does two things keeps out 100 percent of water and or moisture so now no rusted stuck in bolts and even if a bolt would become loose it cannot back out on it's own and become lost.
I wish I saw this video last week. I put the cleats on my new shoes and I developed some soreness on the outside of my right foot (the cuboid) after a 20 miles ride. I think there is some adjustment work to do.
Really helpful. One question: When you angle the cleats for your feet, you obviously have to move one side or both away from the centre point you've set up. Should the movement be equal on the inside and outside of the foot, or should the movement away from the centre point be more on one side that the other?
@@krug123 Not necessarily because when you angle the cleat according to the individual, it will move the pre-marked position for pedal axle to ball of foot alignment.
I disagree with cleats back causing problems. There’s quite a bit of research (Steve Hogg for one) into cleats back or even mid foot cleat position in reducing load on the calves and engaging the glutes more, which becomes an exercise in fast twitch v slow twitch muscle fibres. Top end speed might be ever so slightly impacted, but no need to sprint when your pushing power for longer than everyone else and off the front. I ride bont vaypors with cleats back. Lower saddle height, lower front end, lower centre of gravity. Give it a try 👍
I would happily listen to Steve or anyone trained by him over generic tosh.. Cleats rearward and saddle lower as a result, solved years of issues I had stemming from foot instability
So this video has definitely come at the perfect time for me. But I could really do with a run down on the different types of cleats you can get (especially for a beginner). And also what else I need to buy, so obviously the shoes, the cleats and then do I buy a separate part for the bike? Cycling is a minefield!
Pedals that match the cleats you want to use. For instance in Manon's video she'll be using Look Keo pedals. Other popular options are: Shimano SPD-SL (triangular shaped road cleats like the Looks), Shimano SPD (much smaller cleat, more common in mountain biking and cyclocross because they're much less sensitive to getting a bit of dirt and grime in them, also popular with commuters because the shoes tend to be easier to walk in), Speedplay (small disc-shaped pedal that clips into the cleat), and Look Delta (very similar to Look Keo but an older chunkier design, popular nowadays because Peloton indoor bikes use them). Also, the shoe you choose will depend on the cleat system you chose, specifically the number of holes needed. Look and SPD-SL need 3 holes in a triangular shape, SPD needs 2 holes side-by-side, Speedplay needs 4 holes but can be adapted to a 3 hole shoe.
@@krug123 thanks so much! This is super useful. So I can pick a shoe that is comfortable for me. And then find the perfect cleats? In your opinion and experience, what is the best all rounder cleats to go for, for a beginner to road cycling?
@@laurenjohns8185 i went for ShimanoSPD-SL pedals with Shimano yellow SPD SL Cleats. Yellow means the maximum float and float means the amount of movement you can have between cleat and pedal. For beginners you need more movement to feel comfortable. One thing i also did was to loosen off the clip spring on the pedal a little to allow for easier clip in and out. Makes you less panicky when first learning to use clip-in.
Thank you gcn. I am new to the world of cycling, so I have now invested in a copy of the maintenance bike book and am as far as page 25 Item 12 and 13 are I feel wrong.
Modern cycling shoes have very stiff soles meaning it doesn’t really matter where the pedal is under the shoe in terms of power transfer. A rearward position can ease strain on the calf, prevent the toes curling inside the shoe and is certainly not inefficient. Having a very rearward clear position also lengthens the effective saddle height, meaning you can lower your saddle (and therefore your bars) which means better aerodynamics.
Shimano's instructions say to draw a line from the mark on one side of the shoe to the other. Then put the center of the cleat on that line or a little toward the rear of the shoe.
@@craigherriot4026 You are right, Craig. I should have mentioned that this line is diagonal, not perpendicular to the center line of the shoe. Still, where the line crosses the center of the shoe is the starting point for placing the cleat. So, the cleat ends up somewhat to the rear of the ball of the big toe.
nice video. of course we apply a bit or pressure to get in and out in pedals. how tight should screws be into the shoe. i was surprised there's no specification in the shoe/cleat instructions. comment below states 5-6nm. is it right?
Thanks so much for the videos; really approachable for a beginner like me. You asked for questions and I have one... the marks on my tape from the balls of my feet are too far away from the marks on the cleats! They simply won't meet up so where do I go from here please? K
You mention having one leg longer than the other, but what if your feet are different length, which is quite common? I have just had 2 years of knee pain and physio after I had set the fore aft in relation to each foot with spd cleats
What top tips do you have for setting up your cleats? Let us know in the comments below!
Duct tape your shoes to the pedals. Do it once, do it right!
Buyin shoes with cleat memory. You will do the work just the first time
Simple, don't use cleats, use clips, as in the olden days. Then you can even walk if you wish without fearing of slipping or falling over or having a waddling style walk.
@@robertrjm8115 That in fact is exactly what I use.
Screw the fuckers on and go
With my size 50 feet, other factors come into play when fitting cleats. Things like not hitting chainstays or the front wheel when cornering. Maybe Conner can do a video on fitting cleats for riders with big feet.
Check out the position of cleats on your current cycle shoes - fore/aft and angle. Use this as a guide to the placement of the cleats on your new shoes. And here's another tip: I've done a lot of long distance cycling, and have found that moving the cleats farther back relieves "hot foot" by transferring the contact point to the widest part of the foot and reducing pressure on nerves in the foot.
Those black shoes 🔥🔥
I was also very happy to not see white shoes for once...
Actually very helpful, just tried fitting myself for the first time a few weeks ago. Didnt know i could get so much wrong!
I am about to do my first ever self adjustment. I guess I better wish myself good luck.
The nice thing with SPD cleats is that it leaves a mark on the soles of your shoes so you can position the new ones easily :)
This is beyond coincidence I just got new cleats and I am not joking thank you so much GCN
Literally same 😂
Only thing is that she didn't really spend time saying that one should put the little line of the cleat between the two marks you did with the pen
I think it would be more of a coincidence if you had just been given a unicorn and were trying to learn how to shoe it. GCN is generally streamed to cyclists
omg me too
With the current 24k views of this video and, let's say, an average cyclist changes his/her cleats once a year, there are 67 viewers of this clip who are changing their cleats today.
When GCN uploaded a video that you litteraly need right now. I'm starting to think there watching us! Lol
Good tips. Thank you. On the cleat bolts I use thread lock instead of grease. I have had the unfortunate experience of having a couple of bolts drop out of the cleat while riding, leaving me with only one left. Unclipping was impossible because the cleat just spun on the one bolt. Very dangerous and it proved to be quite embarrassing. It caused me to fall over while attempting to unclip and then flail around like a beached fish until I could get my shoe off my foot. Quite the sight.
Do i need to use torque wrench on Shimano rc5 carbon?
This happened to me not so long ago. Not fun.
just had that happen this week - had to take the shoe off to get off my bike
Manon is such a charmer!
Great video...... been putting on my own cleats with years but when I was new to cycling and needed them replaced...... I asked them and I never had ANY knee problems then or now!!! But this just speeds up the whole process for me!!! Thanks 😀
Always love Manon's vids
Your a star Manon, cheers
A great video for someone who has never worn cycling shoes before (Don't tell anyone but I used toe clips for years). The advice given in the video is perfect. Everything was aligned and secured, I was clipped to my pedals and set off to explore this new world only to end up in a heap on the floor having not got more than 2 meters still attached to my bike!! So funny. All the gear and absolutely no idea. :-)
Learning to get in and out of cleats is an adventure. You know what else was challenging after I thought I had built up my confidence with getting in and out of the cleat? Doing it while going uphill LOL!!!
Right on time. Just got new shoes,, cleats and pedals. Thanks, Manon!
I thought that all SPD-SL cleats were the same. Boy did I ever find out differently. I bought a pair of Bontrager shoes, had them fitted with SPD-SL cleats which came with the pedals. Fast forward to many rides and countless GCN TH-cam videos on just about everything (the answers to all of learning curves), I decided to invest in power meters. I purchased a pair of Garmin RS200 SPD-SL power meters. They arrived yesterday, so I thought I would just be changing out the pedals and off I would be with using them. Not the case. The Bontrager cleat shape is different from the Garmin shape. Which brought me to watching yet another fabulous video for do-it-yourself cleat installation.
My feet roll in towards the bike due to years of football ankle injuries - to prevent this I now use adjustable insoles to support the bridge of my feet. This has stopped the issues I was having plus my knees now track properly when cycling. One of the benefits of having a proper bike fit session.
I have just never felt like the fit is quite right so I am going to give this a go! Thanks for the simple explanation and easy to follow video GCN!
Something I didn't hear you say that I would say is more important than anything. Once you have fitted your new cleats if you had no issues with your shoe/cleat position previously then when you mount up and your trainer pay attention not only to the way you look, but do you feel like you want to turn your foot. Or you feel like you need to adjust your foot. Or your knee feels a little tight. I find if you pay close attention to this you will be able to dial both cleats in perfect your legs and knees will tell you exactly where they need to be.
I have always dreaded this chore thank you Miss Lloyd
thank you! this is sooo much easier to understand than those in writing blogs i've found so far
This Helped a lot. Thank you GCN
I just got my first set of petals that take clips. This will be very useful. Thank you!
This is very helpful, I have a huge crush on Manon not gonna lie.
That drawing around old cleats idea is genius thanks :)
I've learnt a lot from you, I like the way you talk straight forward and thank you so much 🙂
If you are not a pro rider or someone who is chasing marginal gains the easiest way to place your cleats in a position that is kind to your knees is to smash the fore/aft as far back as possible (closest to the heel). This will give less leverage on knee/achilles tendon. The most important part is the angle of the cleat, the trick to sit on a bench with your knees at 90 degrees and feet floating in the air is a good starting point to realize the natural position of your feet. But the easiest way to know that your angle of the cleat is correct is to be on the bike and make sure that you have equal float for your foot to move both in and out in all positions in your pedal stroke. I.e. wiggle your heel left and right at top of pedal strike, quarter past, bottom and quarter to and make sure you have float in all positions.
The best bit of info for me was dangling your feet to see if the turn inward or outward and the appropriate adjustment. That will protect my knees I think.
A pretty good video except 1 thing. The claimed loss in efficiency when bringing the cleat futher back is just false.
Bringing the cleat futher back stabilises the ankle joint, limiting the degrees of movement there. This can benifit the efficiency for some riders, it only limits short jump intervals.
Only drawback to having the cleat further back, even as far back as you can get it, is it may hinder you being able to pedal at high cadences. But the average rider shouldn't be trying to emulate the super high pedaling cadences of some of the pros anyway, as they may not benefit as much due to their general lower fitness level and aerobic capacity. Otherwise, it won't cause you injury, as inaccurate placement further forward might.
@@achn2b couldnt agree more. I have seen some riders with their cleat pretty far back spinning at 105 rpm, but that's quite rare. It can trigger problems for people having slight leg length differences (because the footangle can provide some wiggleroom there) but having the cleat too far forward is a far greater risk.
Moreover in short riders riding short cranks the further back cleat position will lower the saddle height and allow a more aero position. If on a tt bike the furthest back position is the most powerful
This. I place my cleats (or feet on flat pedals) far back to relieve stress from my achilles tendons on long endurance rides and while working full time as a bike messenger. Being as comfortable as possible as long as possible is priority in these situations.
Short, well informed with the information very clear. Good video
Can always rely on gcn to explain something simply in a few minutes. Thank you so much!!!
Thank you for this, I needed this, I have not worn clip-ons for many years. This was helpful, thank you.
What a perfect timing! I got a new DMT shoes with new cleats, amazing :D
Thank you!!!! New shoes arrived today and picked them up before a rode!
Let’s see what happens!!!! 🚴
The dangling legs trick. Brilliant.
Just got new shoes! And I forgot to put grease in!!! Thanks for the reminder Manon. :)
Chalk! Use chalk to draw the outline of the old cleat. Brushes off easily. 😀
The Look cleats shown in the video have a rubber plug in the middle, which can be screwed to the sole and stay there when you have to change cleats next time. So no need to draw on your shoes just to keep the position with new cleats.
wowww beautiful manon...!
Got my cleats fitted at the bike shop, came here just for Manon.
Thank you on the tips on greasing the bolt hole. Gonna apply some anti sieze on mine.
Mannon ❤️❤️❤️
This was very helpful! Thank you GCN as always!
What good instructional video. Nice work, I shall be putting this into practice shortly!
This is so helpful, my last ride I had to get a ride home because my feet cramped up, now I won't have to worry about it
Very useful, thanks!
You'd think there'd be some rule of thumb for cleat position, like say one-third along the shoe or something, but I've never heard of one so always just guess. I'd never thought of actually feeling for foot bones!
... I use "MTB" Shimano cleats ( cause I like being able to walk at the rest-stops or into buildings as sometimes you are not allowed to w/ "road-bike shoes/cleats) ... now ... a trick ... after you have installed the cleats ... remove the inside "footbed" ... and cover the slots on the inside w/ tape ... ( I hate wet socks from walking in damp grass in the morning)
Should a correct torque setting be used to tighten the screws, to avoid the screws coming loose or possibly stripping the threads with overtightening?
A correct toque should always be used when tightening anything. But I’m sure you’ll be fine without.
I use 5Nm torque. I got to this figure by tightening to what I would describe as tight using one of those blue handled Allen key, rode an hour and tightened, repeating 3 times you get to the stage it doesn’t nip up a bit. They don’t work loose at that and will come out easily even when the bolt head is damaged from walking on it! That measured 5 Nm.....just checked. Now I’ve got that figure I don’t need to fanny about again lol
I use 2 bolt SPD cleats and 4nm when first fitting to new shoes, then ride, adjust, ride etc... and when happy with position I tighten them to 5nm. I haven’t had any problems with removing them later (even years later) nor any becoming loose at all.
Great video ! I have a gravel bike. Could you do the same with gravel bike shoes and shimano spd ?
I thought for a moment I saw Rosamund Pike on GCN.... good job Manon now I know my set up is kinda slightly wrong :)
Worth saying having your cleats too far back is NOT inefficient. There have been a few studies that showed no efficiency loss with having your cleats along way back. Many bike fitters will tell you there are nearly no disadvantages to a very rearward clear position. Adam Hansen and Alex Doswett’s both have their cleats quite far back.
Fully agree here James, less power loss and also moves the pivot point rearward helping keep to keep the heel down especially with a larger foot. :)
Always love her accent 😍
She doesn't have an accent! She's speaking English. That's what English sounds like. LOL
Thank you! Great job!
"The Sticking out bits" That's classic1
"Industry term"?
such a babe! thanks for the video! cleat fitting is such a pain
I addicted to your voice :) !!
It is still below freezing in Idaho Falls most of the time, but I saw the first road cyclist of Spring today! I'm a velomobile (no ice on the road) or fat tire (ice on the road) commuter. I'm not a road cyclist. Road cyclists only come out when there is no chance of ice, and they pedal ultralight UCI legal triangle bikes that have nothing on them. When the snow and ice arrives, they all disappear while cycling commuters continue to pedal on. So, I know Spring is on the way! The road cyclists are starting to come back!
Look beautiful today manon!!
This is brilliant - thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
i ❤️ manon 🚴❤️
Really useful video. Thanks!
Good tips Manon! Now I want new shoes....
Instead of using grease I use clear silicone glue on my cleat bolts, this does two things keeps out 100 percent of water and or moisture so now no rusted stuck in bolts and even if a bolt would become loose it cannot back out on it's own and become lost.
Nice shoes! Good video. Thanks.
I wish I saw this video last week. I put the cleats on my new shoes and I developed some soreness on the outside of my right foot (the cuboid) after a 20 miles ride. I think there is some adjustment work to do.
Very good. Will use this tutorial to fit my new cleats onto my new shoes I purchased this winter. Thanks alot Manon!
Great to hear!
Thank You! 🥰
The all black Pinarello 😍
Really helpful. One question: When you angle the cleats for your feet, you obviously have to move one side or both away from the centre point you've set up. Should the movement be equal on the inside and outside of the foot, or should the movement away from the centre point be more on one side that the other?
If you think about it, all that really changes is the front-back position of the newly-angled cleat.
@@krug123 Not necessarily because when you angle the cleat according to the individual, it will move the pre-marked position for pedal axle to ball of foot alignment.
Please. When I can start use cleats and clips?
Nice video; good suggestions
Old me: Surely I won't learn anything new in a 6-minute video, don't you just guess the right position? Me now: Mind blown and knowledge increased!
I disagree with cleats back causing problems. There’s quite a bit of research (Steve Hogg for one) into cleats back or even mid foot cleat position in reducing load on the calves and engaging the glutes more, which becomes an exercise in fast twitch v slow twitch muscle fibres. Top end speed might be ever so slightly impacted, but no need to sprint when your pushing power for longer than everyone else and off the front. I ride bont vaypors with cleats back. Lower saddle height, lower front end, lower centre of gravity. Give it a try 👍
I would happily listen to Steve or anyone trained by him over generic tosh..
Cleats rearward and saddle lower as a result, solved years of issues I had stemming from foot instability
So this video has definitely come at the perfect time for me. But I could really do with a run down on the different types of cleats you can get (especially for a beginner). And also what else I need to buy, so obviously the shoes, the cleats and then do I buy a separate part for the bike? Cycling is a minefield!
Pedals that match the cleats you want to use. For instance in Manon's video she'll be using Look Keo pedals. Other popular options are: Shimano SPD-SL (triangular shaped road cleats like the Looks), Shimano SPD (much smaller cleat, more common in mountain biking and cyclocross because they're much less sensitive to getting a bit of dirt and grime in them, also popular with commuters because the shoes tend to be easier to walk in), Speedplay (small disc-shaped pedal that clips into the cleat), and Look Delta (very similar to Look Keo but an older chunkier design, popular nowadays because Peloton indoor bikes use them). Also, the shoe you choose will depend on the cleat system you chose, specifically the number of holes needed. Look and SPD-SL need 3 holes in a triangular shape, SPD needs 2 holes side-by-side, Speedplay needs 4 holes but can be adapted to a 3 hole shoe.
@@krug123 thanks so much! This is super useful. So I can pick a shoe that is comfortable for me. And then find the perfect cleats? In your opinion and experience, what is the best all rounder cleats to go for, for a beginner to road cycling?
@@laurenjohns8185 i went for ShimanoSPD-SL pedals with Shimano yellow SPD SL Cleats. Yellow means the maximum float and float means the amount of movement you can have between cleat and pedal. For beginners you need more movement to feel comfortable. One thing i also did was to loosen off the clip spring on the pedal a little to allow for easier clip in and out. Makes you less panicky when first learning to use clip-in.
I made the same video on my channel only for mtb and there were two Steve Hogg methods
Tip - Tightening torque for most cleats should be 5 - 6 N·m
Surprised there wasn't any discussion of the cleat bolt tightness. Too loose also has its dangers.
My first GCN video
Thank you gcn. I am new to the world of cycling, so I have now invested in a copy of the maintenance bike book and am as far as page 25 Item 12 and 13 are I feel wrong.
Useful one
This lady is such an amazing presenter. So knowledgeable and friendly.
Good tips.
I love you Manon
Manoooonnn 💕💕💕
I have seen some who advocate for a very rearward cleat position. I have never had the nerve to try it. Could you address the topic at some point?
Modern cycling shoes have very stiff soles meaning it doesn’t really matter where the pedal is under the shoe in terms of power transfer. A rearward position can ease strain on the calf, prevent the toes curling inside the shoe and is certainly not inefficient. Having a very rearward clear position also lengthens the effective saddle height, meaning you can lower your saddle (and therefore your bars) which means better aerodynamics.
My sticking out bits are different on each side of my foot. Which one should I align the cleat to?
Shimano's instructions say to draw a line from the mark on one side of the shoe to the other. Then put the center of the cleat on that line or a little toward the rear of the shoe.
@@craigherriot4026 You are right, Craig. I should have mentioned that this line is diagonal, not perpendicular to the center line of the shoe. Still, where the line crosses the center of the shoe is the starting point for placing the cleat. So, the cleat ends up somewhat to the rear of the ball of the big toe.
nice video. of course we apply a bit or pressure to get in and out in pedals. how tight should screws be into the shoe. i was surprised there's no specification in the shoe/cleat instructions. comment below states 5-6nm. is it right?
I see Manon.. I click
Well crap...I slapped my cleats right on my shoes and went for a ride 🤣
Thanks so much for the videos; really approachable for a beginner like me. You asked for questions and I have one... the marks on my tape from the balls of my feet are too far away from the marks on the cleats! They simply won't meet up so where do I go from here please? K
Can you do a video for spd onto mountain bike shoes please
I got my setup wrong, caused me loads of problems in just a few weeks of cyclo-cross training
Thank you very much very interesting me
Just received the same DMT’s yesterday lollll how appropriate
love manon
Lodi ❤️
You mention having one leg longer than the other, but what if your feet are different length, which is quite common? I have just had 2 years of knee pain and physio after I had set the fore aft in relation to each foot with spd cleats
Great, informative video. Charming hostess.
Great video. Do you have any different recommendations for Clipless pedal setup? I'm using Shimano SPD-56 with Lake MX-176 Wide.
Love it
Hope it helped
Wow!
MucOff tape!
Must buy! 🙄
Lightweight and easy to operate. Very convenient.