I had this issue out of nowhere. Passenger low beam went out. Then came back, then drivers side went out, then both went out and stayed out. Hi beamms and indicators all worked. Daytime running lights worked through the low beam bulb so i knew it was either wiring or the control module. 400 dollars later im installing the new module today. Hope this is the appropriate fix for my issue, since fuses and relays are all good. I doubt the issue would be presenting like it has if the relay was bad, considering both relays would have to go out at the exact same time for this to occur. Thanks for the video. It makes this whole process alot easier knowing where the CM is located.
Thanks for the video. I hope it will help. One thing…I changed out both headlights about a year ago because they were cloudy etc. They were not simple to change out on my 07’. Had to remove the front bumper shroud, and move a bunch of stuff out of the way to access. Took me probably 3-4 hours. Glad it was simple and easy for you though.
Thank you for your video. Here is the current situation with my 2009 2.5 XT Outback. Had to replace the alternator yesterday. Before replacing it, the dashboard warning lights for parking on brake, battery warning light, and flashing S/I/S# limp mode, no headlights, but car ran fine otherwise. Also replaced rear wire harness due to broken wires at the hinge of the hatchback. After replacing the alternator, still no headlights. Following your measurements. I have voltage (power) on one side (?) of each of the two 15 A fuses in the engine compartment, fuses intact. Power on each of the 7.5A fuses under the dash. **No power on the 10 A Lamp/IG fuse under the dash. ** I just ordered the daytime running light module. You had no power on the two 15 A headlight fuses under the hood ( I have power there on one side of each fuse). Any suggestions on next steps while I wait for the RLM are appreciated.
Interesting finding. All six bulbs were blown out on my 2009 Outback. Headlights, daytime running lights/brights, fog lights. Taillights are ok. I think it was a surge of voltage. The chain of events... broken wires in the passenger side rear hatchback door (a common problem on Subaru); they were likely broken for a while and finally shorted out, then the alternator suddenly went bad, and when it did, all kinds of warnings lights on the dash in addition to the battery warning light. Replaced the alternator No headlights, daytime running lights, or fog lights. OK, "there is no way all bulbs burnt out..." Yes, there is if there was a voltage spike that did not get caught by the fuses. Strange. Anyway, I was replacing the daytime running light module (very hard to find) and decided to check the bulbs. They were all bad, all six of them. They all worked fine before the incident with the dash warning lights and alternator. Perhaps there is another root cause that killed everything, but hopefully not. I will replace all the bulbs tomorrow and see if i can test the electrical system some more.
How did you get the Headlight Relays out of the underhood fuse block to check for power? Those damn things are in snapped in there so tight, I don't want to break the plastic. Suggestions?
thank you, for this training module, if you care to call it that. i'm old school vehicles, and recently given a 2005 outback, driving to work low beams worked at 7pm at night, leaving work 9am the next day showed in glass in front of me reduced driving illumination. after 1.5 hour drive from work and stopping at a store before home, saw the reflection that driving lights not functioning' (ie reduced low beam mode daylight hours now), After a couple hours of needed sleep and a snow storm coming, realized low beam or daytime driving lights still not operational. have fogs and high beams, but don't want to blind my oncoming drivers either. going to give this a try. do you know why Subaru did this style of negative power switching? only Triumph did this before, and did not work well
Great video, took a while to find something useful but thankful I’m here. I followed along and everything was the same of yours until I got to the daytime running light module. My blue/green wire worked but the blue with yellow tracer didn’t have any power. In fact, I only got power at two points- the blue green in top left corner and the ride wire in bottom right. Is replacing the module the next step ? Any advice?
My grandson's 2010 outback low beams are out, everything else works. No juice at the fuse under the hood.... Is it the same process for a 2010? Module looks different. Thanks!
I'm having an issue with my drivers side headlight,all other lights work and I've tried replacing the drivers side with 2 different new bulbs now,Does anyone know what would cause just the single light not to work ?
Have the same issue. One of the pins the relay plugs into is dead. But mine is a 2013 and the wiring is different under the steering column. Spent a while looking under there today, trouble shooting and got nowhere. I looked at the wire diagrams on the internet but it's like trying to read Chinese to me. No clue what I'm looking at. If you see this comment in the next few days and you have any suggestions, I'd love to hear em.
have a strange one, occasonally the headlamps stay on parked and ignition off. Now that I know where the module is.. 03 is basically the same. Not mine, but it's the same model and year.
My 2007 Subaru Outback LLbean edition doesn’t have any power getting to the whole center consul. My navigation box underneath the drivers seat got submerged in water earlier this year. It started smoking and burnt the one of the connectors. I have bought a used navigation system as well as cord connector. Didn’t do anything. I’ve been trying to figure out this project for awhile. There are other things that don’t work. The car doesn’t lock from the keys. The head lights only work when they are turned off. Any thoughts?
This is an excellent video on how to diagnose headlight/drl problems on these. I would like to provide a similar service someday. I worked on an 08 tribeca. These are my notes and reminders: 4:20 you have two big ones (power to lights) and two little ones (switched side). I marked the two positive terminals with a paint pen so as not to get confused. If you don't have ground on the other little one, check continuity to the drl module. 4:50 On the tribeca I worked on, It's behind the dash on the left side, approximately 6 inches behind the dimmer switch. 6:10 I provided ground to the blue with yellow wire while the connector was plugged in. I was able to verify the lights operated normally. Initially I just checked for continuity between the little one and the white drl connector 6:26 he is applying battery positive to the ground wire. Same as he did to check the small one. Be careful not to touch anything with your test light! 7:03 I also checked continuity of all the wires from the combination switch to the drl module. There's some parallel circuits so I'm not sure if there's other checks you should do.
Both my brights are out on 09 Impreza. The 15A fuse is not getting power and my high beam relay only has one prong with power. Any help would be amazing
I have no power coming from the black connector to the module. You found power which led you to believe the module was the issue. What might my issue be?
When I check the fuses under the hood I get power when the key is turned but no power when the key is not turned. I couldn't tell if you had the key turned when you checked.
If all lights are off can I automatically assume daylight module is faulty, also is there. Another module that needs to be replaced considering all lights off not just headlights, also lights quit working after keyless auto start was uninstalled, it didn't come with car, I had installed and then didn't like it anymore so when removing it they claim they messed something up and then lights quit working. What do you suggest, can I automatically assume I need to replace daylight module, will that only fix headlights or all lights. We noticed some lights burned out by burn mark residue when replacing some of the lights. After replacing lights they still didn't work so obviously there's no power, I'm thinking module needs to be replaced.
I have a 2007 outback with identical problem. Cannot find the replacement PN 84067XA02A. Any ideas for bypassing the module? Lot's of delete DTR lights options with a working module. How about a complete bypass?
hi my 2008 outback has similar problems and i could not fix it no fuse problems no module problem no switch problem no riley problem i am going crazy is there anything else i need to check or should i go over all the fuses pls help?????
Would anyone know about those blue looking relay switches are for located right of the fuses under steering wheel? Usually they are for dealerships to know only.
I have a test light. Don't know much so can you tell me what you are connecting the other end to? I think I need to replace my turn signal switch. My high beams keep turning themselves on and I play with the turn signal arm and get them of, only they turn back on while driving or when I put a turn signal on. I watched another video and it's a matter of a few screws so I'm doing it myself.
Ann it definitely sounds like a bad switch. The other end of the test light is connected to either ground or positive, when testing for positive or ground respectively.
I have a 2006 Subaru Legacy and my low beam headlights doesnt work, i checked the fuses , under good, inside the cabin ,relays etc etc ,and still no power???? Do you know whats my problem 🤔🤔🤔🤔
Dude, I don’t have any power to my head lights, blower fan and dashboard gauges. Plus my alternator is not charging my battery. Fuses are ok, but there are fusible links in the headlight harness. The vehicle is a mid 80s Nissan.
Hey man. So I skipped everything and bought the module. Still didn’t work. So I did all of the tests you did and I don’t have ground at the black module connector. I have a repair manual, but I can’t work my way though it to find where the ground should go. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hey Fred. Pin #8 on the Black connector (Orange wire with a White stripe), as well as Pin #1 on the White connector (also Orange with a White stripe, since the two pins are connected downstream in the harness), will be grounded when either one of the following is true: A) the Lighting switch at the end of the turn signal stalk is in the "Headlight" position B) the Dimmer & Passing Switch is in the "Pass" position (turn signal stalk pulled straight back toward the rear of the vehicle as far as it will go). Hope this helps.
I watch six different peoples videos and they all skip how they got that little black electrical connector cap off. I tried for a half an hour and finally gave up so I’m driving around without one of the lower beams. I am know it’s hard to get a camera in there but you can’t just show people after the fact that it’s off you have to show them how it disconnects. Good video but if you don’t show people detail then they haven’t seen the whole process. It is fine I’m so frustrated with it I’m gonna go ahead and pay the mechanic $200 to change a lightbulb ha
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
I had this issue out of nowhere. Passenger low beam went out. Then came back, then drivers side went out, then both went out and stayed out. Hi beamms and indicators all worked. Daytime running lights worked through the low beam bulb so i knew it was either wiring or the control module. 400 dollars later im installing the new module today. Hope this is the appropriate fix for my issue, since fuses and relays are all good. I doubt the issue would be presenting like it has if the relay was bad, considering both relays would have to go out at the exact same time for this to occur. Thanks for the video. It makes this whole process alot easier knowing where the CM is located.
Thanks for the video. I hope it will help. One thing…I changed out both headlights about a year ago because they were cloudy etc. They were not simple to change out on my 07’. Had to remove the front bumper shroud, and move a bunch of stuff out of the way to access. Took me probably 3-4 hours. Glad it was simple and easy for you though.
I usually never comment but you're the man for making this video!
thanks adam sandler
Ooh geez lol 😆
Bruh
Last fuse was blown! Replaced and happy! Needed the small win today. Thanks!
Now that was interesting because you did use only the test light and got it done. I like that one
Thank you for your video. Here is the current situation with my 2009 2.5 XT Outback. Had to replace the alternator yesterday. Before replacing it, the dashboard warning lights for parking on brake, battery warning light, and flashing S/I/S# limp mode, no headlights, but car ran fine otherwise. Also replaced rear wire harness due to broken wires at the hinge of the hatchback. After replacing the alternator, still no headlights. Following your measurements. I have voltage (power) on one side (?) of each of the two 15 A fuses in the engine compartment, fuses intact. Power on each of the 7.5A fuses under the dash. **No power on the 10 A Lamp/IG fuse under the dash. ** I just ordered the daytime running light module. You had no power on the two 15 A headlight fuses under the hood ( I have power there on one side of each fuse). Any suggestions on next steps while I wait for the RLM are appreciated.
I will also check the actual headlight bulbs, but the chances of all of them going bad at once is slim
Interesting finding. All six bulbs were blown out on my 2009 Outback. Headlights, daytime running lights/brights, fog lights. Taillights are ok. I think it was a surge of voltage. The chain of events... broken wires in the passenger side rear hatchback door (a common problem on Subaru); they were likely broken for a while and finally shorted out, then the alternator suddenly went bad, and when it did, all kinds of warnings lights on the dash in addition to the battery warning light. Replaced the alternator No headlights, daytime running lights, or fog lights. OK, "there is no way all bulbs burnt out..." Yes, there is if there was a voltage spike that did not get caught by the fuses. Strange. Anyway, I was replacing the daytime running light module (very hard to find) and decided to check the bulbs. They were all bad, all six of them. They all worked fine before the incident with the dash warning lights and alternator. Perhaps there is another root cause that killed everything, but hopefully not. I will replace all the bulbs tomorrow and see if i can test the electrical system some more.
Thanks for the help! You did a great job filming in those tight spaces much appreciated
How did you get the Headlight Relays out of the underhood fuse block to check for power? Those damn things are in snapped in there so tight, I don't want to break the plastic. Suggestions?
Thank you !! This issue has been so annoying to deal with
Do you know you can check both sides of the fuse for power without taking them out? Probe the contacts on the upper side.of the Fuse
Great video, sorted out the problem on my daughters car (replaced blown fuse)
Haha just bought a wrx and this saved me having to take it to a shop. Thank you!
Excellent job, your diag. was through and easy to follow. Keep up the good work.
I'm having this exact same issue with an 02 Legacy and I've been scratching my head. I'm gonna give this a shot and see if that fixes it.
thank you, for this training module, if you care to call it that. i'm old school vehicles, and recently given a 2005 outback, driving to work low beams worked at 7pm at night, leaving work 9am the next day showed in glass in front of me reduced driving illumination. after 1.5 hour drive from work and stopping at a store before home, saw the reflection that driving lights not functioning' (ie reduced low beam mode daylight hours now), After a couple hours of needed sleep and a snow storm coming, realized low beam or daytime driving lights still not operational. have fogs and high beams, but don't want to blind my oncoming drivers either. going to give this a try. do you know why Subaru did this style of negative power switching? only Triumph did this before, and did not work well
thank you mexican adam sandler
Great video, took a while to find something useful but thankful I’m here. I followed along and everything was the same of yours until I got to the daytime running light module. My blue/green wire worked but the blue with yellow tracer didn’t have any power. In fact, I only got power at two points- the blue green in top left corner and the ride wire in bottom right. Is replacing the module the next step ? Any advice?
Thank you! everything i need is a trip to the wreckers!! :3
Adam Sandler Does Cars - very helpful video. Thanks!!
I'm having the same problem did your high beams still work before u change that module
My grandson's 2010 outback low beams are out, everything else works. No juice at the fuse under the hood....
Is it the same process for a 2010? Module looks different. Thanks!
I'm having an issue with my drivers side headlight,all other lights work and I've tried replacing the drivers side with 2 different new bulbs now,Does anyone know what would cause just the single light not to work ?
Have the same issue. One of the pins the relay plugs into is dead. But mine is a 2013 and the wiring is different under the steering column. Spent a while looking under there today, trouble shooting and got nowhere. I looked at the wire diagrams on the internet but it's like trying to read Chinese to me. No clue what I'm looking at. If you see this comment in the next few days and you have any suggestions, I'd love to hear em.
Ok i didn't know about that module, I was getting ready to replace my switch on the steering column
How fid you get the headlight relays out? Those housings make it so i cant get it with my hands or simple pliers
have a strange one, occasonally the headlamps stay on parked and ignition off. Now that I know where the module is.. 03 is basically the same. Not mine, but it's the same model and year.
My 2007 Subaru Outback LLbean edition doesn’t have any power getting to the whole center consul. My navigation box underneath the drivers seat got submerged in water earlier this year. It started smoking and burnt the one of the connectors. I have bought a used navigation system as well as cord connector. Didn’t do anything. I’ve been trying to figure out this project for awhile. There are other things that don’t work. The car doesn’t lock from the keys. The head lights only work when they are turned off. Any thoughts?
3:35 the lamp/ignition is for the reverse lights (i dont know if it has other circuits on it)
This is an excellent video on how to diagnose headlight/drl problems on these. I would like to provide a similar service someday.
I worked on an 08 tribeca. These are my notes and reminders:
4:20 you have two big ones (power to lights) and two little ones (switched side). I marked the two positive terminals with a paint pen so as not to get confused.
If you don't have ground on the other little one, check continuity to the drl module.
4:50 On the tribeca I worked on, It's behind the dash on the left side, approximately 6 inches behind the dimmer switch.
6:10 I provided ground to the blue with yellow wire while the connector was plugged in. I was able to verify the lights operated normally. Initially I just checked for continuity between the little one and the white drl connector
6:26 he is applying battery positive to the ground wire. Same as he did to check the small one. Be careful not to touch anything with your test light!
7:03 I also checked continuity of all the wires from the combination switch to the drl module. There's some parallel circuits so I'm not sure if there's other checks you should do.
Both my brights are out on 09 Impreza. The 15A fuse is not getting power and my high beam relay only has one prong with power. Any help would be amazing
Adam all my lights are off, by replacing daylight module, will that fix the problem?
Thanks for helping me!
Did the high beams work just not the low beams?
I have no power coming from the black connector to the module. You found power which led you to believe the module was the issue. What might my issue be?
When I check the fuses under the hood I get power when the key is turned but no power when the key is not turned. I couldn't tell if you had the key turned when you checked.
If all lights are off can I automatically assume daylight module is faulty, also is there. Another module that needs to be replaced considering all lights off not just headlights, also lights quit working after keyless auto start was uninstalled, it didn't come with car, I had installed and then didn't like it anymore so when removing it they claim they messed something up and then lights quit working. What do you suggest, can I automatically assume I need to replace daylight module, will that only fix headlights or all lights. We noticed some lights burned out by burn mark residue when replacing some of the lights. After replacing lights they still didn't work so obviously there's no power, I'm thinking module needs to be replaced.
I would check the wiring they removed, I bet they clipped something from the stalk.
Get your 12v light or a multimeter and work backwards
I have a 2007 outback with identical problem. Cannot find the replacement PN 84067XA02A. Any ideas for bypassing the module? Lot's of delete DTR lights options with a working module. How about a complete bypass?
Shoot me an email, I can track one down
hi my 2008 outback has similar problems and i could not fix it no fuse problems no module problem no switch problem no riley problem i am going crazy is there anything else i need to check or should i go over all the fuses
pls help?????
Bro I’m desperate, how did you get the relays out?? I can’t get mine out, thanks
use water pump pliers (adjustables) carefully
Would anyone know about those blue looking relay switches are for located right of the fuses under steering wheel? Usually they are for dealerships to know only.
Thank you!
I have a test light. Don't know much so can you tell me what you are connecting the other end to? I think I need to replace my turn signal switch. My high beams keep turning themselves on and I play with the turn signal arm and get them of, only they turn back on while driving or when I put a turn signal on. I watched another video and it's a matter of a few screws so I'm doing it myself.
Ann it definitely sounds like a bad switch. The other end of the test light is connected to either ground or positive, when testing for positive or ground respectively.
How about if is just the driver side HL,but the high beams work fine?
Are these headlights xenon?
For me it's the module. Never knew it was inside the cab
My 5006 Legacy does not have High Beam lights. Seems the running lights and low beam are working Ok. Tried changing both bulbs, but no help. Need help
When you pull the high beam stalk, does the blue high beam indicator illuminate on your gauge cluster?
I have a 2006 Subaru Legacy and my low beam headlights doesnt work, i checked the fuses , under good, inside the cabin ,relays etc etc ,and still no power???? Do you know whats my problem 🤔🤔🤔🤔
Have you checked for power coming from the daytime running light module?
Dude, I don’t have any power to my head lights, blower fan and dashboard gauges. Plus my alternator is not charging my battery. Fuses are ok, but there are fusible links in the headlight harness. The vehicle is a mid 80s Nissan.
Im having issues with my fog lights. Fuses look good, tested the connector that goes to the bulb and there's no power
Check power at the fuse
Hey man. So I skipped everything and bought the module. Still didn’t work. So I did all of the tests you did and I don’t have ground at the black module connector. I have a repair manual, but I can’t work my way though it to find where the ground should go. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hey Fred. Pin #8 on the Black connector (Orange wire with a White stripe), as well as Pin #1 on the White connector (also Orange with a White stripe, since the two pins are connected downstream in the harness), will be grounded when either one of the following is true:
A) the Lighting switch at the end of the turn signal stalk is in the "Headlight" position
B) the Dimmer & Passing Switch is in the "Pass" position (turn signal stalk pulled straight back toward the rear of the vehicle as far as it will go).
Hope this helps.
I watch six different peoples videos and they all skip how they got that little black electrical connector cap off. I tried for a half an hour and finally gave up so I’m driving around without one of the lower beams. I am know it’s hard to get a camera in there but you can’t just show people after the fact that it’s off you have to show them how it disconnects. Good video but if you don’t show people detail then they haven’t seen the whole process. It is fine I’m so frustrated with it I’m gonna go ahead and pay the mechanic $200 to change a lightbulb ha
Youuu can do it Adam sandler
How did you pull the relays out mine won't budge
Erik Peterson they are terrible! I ended up trimming the side of the fuse box and using an angled pick. Terrible design.
@@I_Do_Cars Word! Thank you!
😆😆. I don’t know what a burnt light fuses looks light
Welp, I'm having the same issue but both of my fuses under the hood are getting power.
I guess this isn't my answer
😭😭😭
If you turn over the fuse box cover it has a diagram of what is what