Very cool video. I am always interested in new ways to do cutting boards for my kids teachers and other friends and family members. I had not yet thought of doing "inlay" like this.
Thank you mike I been wanting to do this and I was making way to much out of it in my mind you just made the light bulb go on you have gained a sub I am glad u found you Thanks again, Claude
Yep, it's not super difficult. It just takes some care, as well as time for all of the glue-ups. But it's worth the effort because it looks pretty nice in the end.
Beautiful work Michael! Your video has been a wonderful guide through my first in-layed cutting board. Curious why move to the bandsaw instead of routing with a straight bit all the way through the cut? [Assuming the cut depth on the bit can cover the full thickness of the work material.] Thanks so much!
Nice build. However would have been good to mention Scott Lewis' article in Fine Woodworking. I'm not sure if he developed the technique but he certainly popularized it. There is nothing wrong with leaving the boards in the clamps overnight, but it is not necessary. TBIII sets in about an hour. For normal glue ups I routinely go the next step in that amount of time. I'm a little more conservative with boards with curved inlays and wait maybe two hours. Thanks for sharing.
In the beginning of the video you said you couldn't just make a cut and put in the inlay strip because the lines wouldn't match, and yet you make a wider cut with the router bit and everything lines up. Could you explain that please. I would definitely love to try this but am a little puzzled. Thank you in advance. Incidently your work was beautiful.
I think I understand the kerf issue buy was wondering if the only limitation in the inlay thickness is that is at least as thick as the kerf is wide. In other word could you put a 1/2" layered inlay into a 1/4" routed kerf?
This explains everything. Thank you. Just one question….(I was watching in CC in a microbrewery lol)…how do you mill your strips so small without blowout? Do you pre purchase those from a specialty hardware store?
I made the strips by cutting them on my bandsaw and then finishing them to the thickness I needed with my drum sander. That gives good control of the thickness without any concern about tear-out.
This is a really good video thank you 😊👍 in fact I liked it so much I bought the company 🤔😲 No just joking, but I did subscribe and I have clicked the like button too 👍 Greetings from Poland Glen 😊👍
Thanks for the comment! Yes, embedding a piece of wood into another piece and only going part way through would be a more traditional inlay. The method I used is sometimes referred to as a through inlay.
I have the hardest time rejoining the boards once I get everything in place. They always slide around and never seem to go back as easy as videos.. Any suggestions?
It can definitely be tricky to keep the pieces from sliding around. One thing that helps is to use a clamp from one end to the other, but kind of on an angle so that it helps to pull the two pieces that you're gluing into position to make sure that the ends line up. I usually put little pencil lines onto the board before clamping so that I know how to get everything lined up. That doesn't stop the slipping, but at least it gives me a target. Having another person to help hold things in place can be a big help as well.
I love your boards and have started making my first five boards for Christmas. I have a question? after getting everything milled cut glued checked for square and level and sanded ( And it was longer than 20 min, I can't seem to make anything in 20 min) I found that the wood isn't level..... The boards are tippy on one end. Please help I've spent so much time and money. :(
I know how frustrating it can be when this happens. One of the potential causes is not working on a perfectly flat surface when assembling and clamping the board. This can cause it to end up with a twist in it. You can plane or sand the corner(s) of the board on one side to flatten it and then run it through a planer or drum sander with the newly flattened side on the bottom. That usually does the trick without requiring too much time or effort. I hope that works for you!
Yes, each inlay is exactly the same thickness as the width of the router bit. However, I used two different router bits for this one. If I remember correctly, I used a 1/2" plywood bit for the walnut and maple inlay whereas I used a 1/4" bit for the padauk inlay and the walnut-only inlay, so that's why they have different thicknesses.
It was primarily due to my wife's suggestion. She likes the boards to be thinner so they're not too heavy when used as serving trays. I don't think it would any harder to make a thicker board. It would just require more material.
Thanks for the video! Great job! Please don’t feel the need to put in background music. It’s just the same 16 bars over and over and it get monotonous! Listening to the work is just fine!
A better technique would be using a template router bit that's the same thickness as the "inlay". This reduces the need to move the template and would remove the "sharpness" of that walnut strip.
The router is important to cut the wood so that the slot ends up being the exact size as the thickness of the wood laminations that will be inserted, and you want that cut to have very clean edges. It would be very difficult to do that with a bandsaw to have a precise thickness all the way along the cut and to also have smooth edges along the cut line. It would undoubtedly result in small gaps along the edge of the laminated portion, which wouldn't look very good.
@@Woodumakeit I don’t understand why the slot cut with the router needs to be the exact same width as the inlays. I’ve watched several through inlay videos and read lots of comments in which the maker says that the slot cut with the router bit has to be the exact same width as the inlay. But no one has explained why this is required. I can’t understand why it matters because you’re cutting the board in half and then using the trim bit to remove the bottom of the slot. Since you’re using the trim bit to remove all the material in the slot anyway, why does the original width of the slot even matter? Can you explain please?
because for the pieces to go back together properly you have to put back the exact width of wood that you removed otherwise the curves won't nest back together if that makes sense@@gradyleewhite
as noted already this is lamination not inlay! My only gripe is the curves aren't "fair" - the original templates might have been drawn with a batten to fair curves? The hoggs, draw my focus. Lots of energy for a cutting board!!! thanks for posting.
About 5 years ago I made about 9 of these, exactly as you did. 5 Pictured on the link. I beveled the bottom edges to ease picking up the boards. www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/48115649958/in/dateposted/
Actually going to try this weekend to build one.
Wonderful instruction video with great music Thanks!
your teaching style is right on! simple, quick, and most importantly, clear. thank you for taking the time to share.
Thank you so much! I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Very nice workmanship. I love watching you work.
Yes I would! That looks outstanding.
Yes I would make it after being inspired by this video. Thanks.
Mike, thank you for a well explained video. It's a nice way to throw some challenge into a basic cutting board. Heck yeah, I'd make it.
Beautiful work
Very cool video. I am always interested in new ways to do cutting boards for my kids teachers and other friends and family members. I had not yet thought of doing "inlay" like this.
Thanks! I'm glad it gave you another idea.
Thank you mike I been wanting to do this and I was making way to much out of it in my mind you just made the light bulb go on you have gained a sub I am glad u found you
Thanks again, Claude
I'm glad my video helped. Thank you for subscribing! Mike
As usual from you another great video and build. Well Done.
TC, Barry (ENG)
Thank you, Barry!
Great work. Really make it seem so achievable
Yep, it's not super difficult. It just takes some care, as well as time for all of the glue-ups. But it's worth the effort because it looks pretty nice in the end.
Un excelente trabajo
Parabéns felicidades ficou show
Always enjoy your projects!
Thank you!
Wicked NIce Job!!!
very nice
absolutely beautiful work.
beautiful work, thanks for the show
Thank you, Ed!
Yes nice job.
I sure will try
Thanks for the video and I love how you answer questions posed to you. Subscribed and looking forward to more videos
Thanks!
Great tutorial. Gets a like and a sub.
Thanks for subscribing!
Love does cutting board great job.👍
Parabéns pelo seu belo projeto. Aprendi com você. Eu agradeço.
Beautiful work Michael! Your video has been a wonderful guide through my first in-layed cutting board. Curious why move to the bandsaw instead of routing with a straight bit all the way through the cut? [Assuming the cut depth on the bit can cover the full thickness of the work material.] Thanks so much!
Nice build. However would have been good to mention Scott Lewis' article in Fine Woodworking. I'm not sure if he developed the technique but he certainly popularized it.
There is nothing wrong with leaving the boards in the clamps overnight, but it is not necessary. TBIII sets in about an hour. For normal glue ups I routinely go the next step in that amount of time. I'm a little more conservative with boards with curved inlays and wait maybe two hours.
Thanks for sharing.
Can you do something similar with a strip of copper? I'm trying to figure out how to add a copper line into a recipe book holder. Thank you!
What a great TH-camr 😄 Like the shirt too.
Haha. Thanks!
In the beginning of the video you said you couldn't just make a cut and put in the inlay strip because the lines wouldn't match, and yet you make a wider cut with the router bit and everything lines up. Could you explain that please. I would definitely love to try this but am a little puzzled. Thank you in advance. Incidently your work was beautiful.
Very nice!
LOVE the shirt :)
Excellent presentation stile.
I like it, subscribed.
Thank you!
I think I understand the kerf issue buy was wondering if the only limitation in the inlay thickness is that is at least as thick as the kerf is wide. In other word could you put a 1/2" layered inlay into a 1/4" routed kerf?
Parabéns muito bom o vídeo...
شكرا لك ابداع ابداع ابداع
With this the borard loose strength? Can I use this technique on a dinner table??
Very cool
I'm not sure if I missed something but could you explain why you didn't cut through with the router? does it tear out the other side?
This explains everything. Thank you. Just one question….(I was watching in CC in a microbrewery lol)…how do you mill your strips so small without blowout? Do you pre purchase those from a specialty hardware store?
I made the strips by cutting them on my bandsaw and then finishing them to the thickness I needed with my drum sander. That gives good control of the thickness without any concern about tear-out.
This is a really good video thank you 😊👍 in fact I liked it so much I bought the company 🤔😲 No just joking, but I did subscribe and I have clicked the like button too 👍
Greetings from Poland
Glen 😊👍
Haha! good one!
Hey Mike, all in all I like your videos. Any chance you can find some additional background music?
Haha, it does get a little repetitive, doesn't it? I'll have to figure out how to change it up a bit.
When you are rounding edges do the end grain first, then move to the sides
Awesome technique. What's the other traditional inlay? Not cutting the wood all the way through?
Thanks for the comment! Yes, embedding a piece of wood into another piece and only going part way through would be a more traditional inlay. The method I used is sometimes referred to as a through inlay.
+Wood U Make It Thank you. It appears the through method seems a bit easier for beginners like myself.
I have the hardest time rejoining the boards once I get everything in place. They always slide around and never seem to go back as easy as videos.. Any suggestions?
It can definitely be tricky to keep the pieces from sliding around. One thing that helps is to use a clamp from one end to the other, but kind of on an angle so that it helps to pull the two pieces that you're gluing into position to make sure that the ends line up. I usually put little pencil lines onto the board before clamping so that I know how to get everything lined up. That doesn't stop the slipping, but at least it gives me a target. Having another person to help hold things in place can be a big help as well.
I like em! Thanks. :-)
I love your boards and have started making my first five boards for Christmas. I have a question? after getting everything milled cut glued checked for square and level and sanded ( And it was longer than 20 min, I can't seem to make anything in 20 min) I found that the wood isn't level..... The boards are tippy on one end. Please help I've spent so much time and money. :(
I know how frustrating it can be when this happens. One of the potential causes is not working on a perfectly flat surface when assembling and clamping the board. This can cause it to end up with a twist in it. You can plane or sand the corner(s) of the board on one side to flatten it and then run it through a planer or drum sander with the newly flattened side on the bottom. That usually does the trick without requiring too much time or effort. I hope that works for you!
Is each through inlay the same thickness as the router bit. It seems the 3 piece inlay is thicker than the solid inlays Optical illusion perhaps.
Yes, each inlay is exactly the same thickness as the width of the router bit. However, I used two different router bits for this one. If I remember correctly, I used a 1/2" plywood bit for the walnut and maple inlay whereas I used a 1/4" bit for the padauk inlay and the walnut-only inlay, so that's why they have different thicknesses.
Is it a reason why you did this with a thinner cutting board? Is it much harder with a thicker board?
Very very nice board great job!!
It was primarily due to my wife's suggestion. She likes the boards to be thinner so they're not too heavy when used as serving trays. I don't think it would any harder to make a thicker board. It would just require more material.
Thanks for the video! Great job! Please don’t feel the need to put in background music. It’s just the same 16 bars over and over and it get monotonous! Listening to the work is just fine!
your design is awesome. this is not an inlay though, its a lamination...
yes i will make it cuz i can
👏👏👏
Everytime I try to clamp the strips of wood I crack them...
I've had that happen with certain types of wood. My solution to that was to cut them thinner.
A better technique would be using a template router bit that's the same thickness as the "inlay". This reduces the need to move the template and would remove the "sharpness" of that walnut strip.
yes, This one I make.
lots of work. But my children would talk about it after me gone.
As someone has said this is a lamination not an inlay, I can't understand why the router is necessary, why not just cut the profile with the bandsaw?
The router is important to cut the wood so that the slot ends up being the exact size as the thickness of the wood laminations that will be inserted, and you want that cut to have very clean edges. It would be very difficult to do that with a bandsaw to have a precise thickness all the way along the cut and to also have smooth edges along the cut line. It would undoubtedly result in small gaps along the edge of the laminated portion, which wouldn't look very good.
@@Woodumakeit I don’t understand why the slot cut with the router needs to be the exact same width as the inlays. I’ve watched several through inlay videos and read lots of comments in which the maker says that the slot cut with the router bit has to be the exact same width as the inlay. But no one has explained why this is required. I can’t understand why it matters because you’re cutting the board in half and then using the trim bit to remove the bottom of the slot. Since you’re using the trim bit to remove all the material in the slot anyway, why does the original width of the slot even matter? Can you explain please?
because for the pieces to go back together properly you have to put back the exact width of wood that you removed otherwise the curves won't nest back together if that makes sense@@gradyleewhite
Seemed easy, until I chipped out a huge chunk of maple on the table router.
as noted already this is lamination not inlay! My only gripe is the curves aren't "fair" - the original templates might have been drawn with a batten to fair curves? The hoggs, draw my focus. Lots of energy for a cutting board!!! thanks for posting.
About 5 years ago I made about 9 of these, exactly as you did. 5 Pictured on the link. I beveled the bottom edges to ease picking up the boards. www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/48115649958/in/dateposted/
Did you copycat that from some one else or did they copycat from you. I' seen others exactly like that! Oh well the more the merrier!
You can use Stodoys plans. The best plans and very detailed instructions. You can learn a lot from them and do it yourself.
I've heard good feedback about the Woodglut plans.
My adventure with the tree began with projects from Woodglut.
Its called laminating wood, not inlay, and I thought you were a woodworker
If the pattern is on both sides it ain't Inlay. There's no skill in that