Let's Get Curvy! Jazz up your cutting board with a curved insert (WnW #17)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I demonstrate how I took a plain straight cutting board and fitted in a wavy curve of wood strips. This takes your cutting board from ordinary to outstanding!
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You start with a cutting board "blank", then make a MDF template of the desired curve. Using a router with a collar + straight bit, you route out most of the curve, finish it up on the bandsaw and then on the router table with a pattern routing bit. And Finally, make some strips of wood and glue it all back together. If you want a second curve, you do it all over again.
More details and photos are on the project webpage.
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LINKS TO SOME OF THE ITEMS USED. (Affiliate links)
amzn.to/1QFHsxk -- Titebond III glue (Must be type 3, not type 2)
amzn.to/1jlEmnL - Hitachi M12V router (I have an earlier version of this router)
amzn.to/1YP3rXy - Irwin Quick-grip XP600 clamps
amzn.to/1QFHK7r - Clapham’s Beeswax Salad Bowl Finish
amzn.to/1jlEwvr - French Curve set
(again, not an exact match for what I have, but similar)
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GEAR I USE TO MAKE VIDEO:
amzn.to/1qPkvBp - Canon T5i
amzn.to/2aK7jZX - Inexpensive Quick Release tripod ball head (Very useful)
amzn.to/1SSwOmS - Sony Action Cam. (I use the HDR-AS15 which is discontinued -- cheaper than a gopro.)
amzn.to/267XM3M - Sony Live View video remote for Action Cam
amzn.to/1XC2D7l - Joby GorillaPod (Flexible small tripod)
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MORE MORE MORE:
www.wordsnwood.com
/ words.n.wood
/ wordsnwood
Music: audionautix.com/
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Your support it better than fine walnut: www.patreon.com/wordsnwood
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In this video I demonstrate how I took a plain straight cutting board and fitted in a wavy curve of wood strips. This takes your cutting board from ordinary to outstanding!
project webpage at wordsnwood.com/2015/curves/
You start with a cutting board "blank", then make a MDF template of the desired curve. Using a router with a collar + straight bit, you route out most of the curve, finish it up on the bandsaw and then on the router table with a pattern routing bit. And Finally, make some strips of wood and glue it all back together. If you want a second curve, you do it all over again.
----- ---------- ---------- ---------- ----------
LINKS TO SOME OF THE ITEMS USED. (Affiliate links)
amzn.to/1QFHsxk -- Titebond III glue (Must be type 3, not type 2)
amzn.to/1jlEmnL - Hitachi M12V router (I have an earlier version of this router)
amzn.to/1YP3rXy - Irwin Quick-grip XP600 clamps
amzn.to/1QFHK7r - Clapham’s Beeswax Salad Bowl Finish
amzn.to/1jlEwvr - French Curve set
(again, not an exact match for what I have, but similar)
----- ---------- ---------- ---------- ----------
GEAR I USE TO MAKE VIDEO:
amzn.to/1qPkvBp - Canon T5i
amzn.to/2aK7jZX - Inexpensive Quick Release tripod ball head (Very useful)
amzn.to/1SSwOmS - Sony Action Cam. (I use the HDR-AS15 which is discontinued -- cheaper than a gopro.)
amzn.to/267XM3M - Sony Live View video remote for Action Cam
amzn.to/1XC2D7l - Joby GorillaPod (Flexible small tripod)
Many more Woodworking Projects at: www.wordsnwood.com/
Check out my woodworking plans:
wordsnwood.com/plans/
You laid the project out in a way that was easy to follow. Thanks. You gave me a new idea to use going forward.
Clever idea using the opposite side of the template to steady your router. I can appreciate that.
One of the better explained videos out there on how to add design curves thank you 😁👍
Thank you for this video! I got an A on my project using this technique. So informative and easy to follow. Great job.
Totally awesome. Glad I bumped into this video. I’m saving it to try this myself, once I finish setting up my new shop.
Wow. That was awesome to watch. I collect handmade cutting boards and hang them like art. The more unusual they are the better.
Never done curved inlays before but going to give it ago 😊
me too..
Fantastic demonstration/explanation of the technique.
Paul Jenkins Thanks, Paul
Great job explaining everything thank you very much
Seeing you making a chopping board, I am also a beginner woodworker
I've been following along and I'm learning a lot
Cool, thanks
Art, I've gotta tell you. I've been a subscriber of yours now for about 6 months (guessing) and I really like your approach. Your sense of humor is great, your skills, practicality, etc are all great. I even liked the background music on this one. :) As a newer woodworker you've made it very approachable and fun. Just thought you'd like to know that you're inspiring others and I hope you continue to do it. Thank you.
+Mickey Griffith music is one of the most difficult parts of this whole video making adventure! ;-)
Very nicely done. That you for a clear instructional video
Thank you for a straight no nonsense vid that leaves no confusion! Awesome.
Great video. Nicely explained. Thanks.
Beautiful work! Thanks for sharing!
I make only end-grain cutting boards....will have to give this a try.
Looks great. Every informative. Thanks
Thanks for clearing that up. I was thinking about the curves and not the lines. Now we're on the same page! ;)
+woodstoney This was the best video I've seen that explains exactly how to put the curves in.
+StArFuRyZz thank-you!
Thank you. Been looking into adding this feature to some of my boards. I had never considered the difference if I have just bandsawed out a curve. the lines would never mate up.
Very nice and informative.
I have made a few cutting boards may have give this a try. I started using mineral oil & beeswax as a finish. Love how it brings out the grain. Nice project.
Thanks, Greg. The finish is so easy to use, and easy to later update.
Great job!
That's Awesome, a lot of cutting and re-gluing but they look great! I always wondered how that was done. Great video tutorial. Thanks!
I’ve got my cutting board in the clamps now. On Wednesday I’ll be doing the inlay.
-Todd
Nice work!
Thanks for the post!
Hi Art, I've seen this video a bunch of times and it's awesome. I plan on making an inlay cutting board just like yours very soon. Thanks so much!
very nice
Просто и классно! Хорошо, когда есть возможность купить разные породы дерева, чтоб сделать такую красоту. У нас такой возможности нет, поэтому смотрим видео и завидуем ))
Beauty work!
thank-you!
very nice and beautiful job ;) thank's for sharing
Great presentation!
very nice, thanks for sharing
awesome! thanks for the easy to follow video...might have to try this!
Awesome work and the best explanation of this technique I have seen to date. This scales up well too. I've made a few table tops using this technique
Joseph Laviolette Thanks, Joseph. This would be pretty awesome on the scale of a tabletop. I'd be even more terrified to cut it in half!!
Very good!!
dinael raymundo thank-you...
Learned something today. Thanks
You're welcome, it was a fun build.
Beautiful, thanks so much. I can't wait to try this myself.
Hey man, thats some good stuff right there.
Very well done. Very cool technique! I've got to try it! Thank you.
Crichly Thank-you
Awesome protect idea, i just finished my first cutting board and you sure made that glue up look a lot easier than it was for me. Nothing a belt sander and some sawdust with glue couldn't patch though.
Rawforlife77 thank-you -- Nice straight edges really help!
Muy bonito diseño ..espectacular saludos🇨🇴👍👍
Nice work.
Unique compared with all the boards I’ve watched being made. Hopefully the extra work is reflected in the price, but that’s a bit hard to imagine ???
Gorgeous work, Art! Question for ya! Why move to the bandsaw vs. routing with the straight bit all the way through? [Assuming the bit cut depth is long enough for the stock.] Thanks so much and keep up the incredible work.
That should work also.
Very good video
***** thank-you
Wonderful !!
gazt42 Thanks, I like them too!
Realmente, ficaram muito boas, eu também gosto do acabamento final, parece que a madeira ganha vida, os desenhos feitos e as madeiras utilizadas revivem e é admirável o resultado final, parabéns novamente aqui do Brasil.
obrigado pelas amáveis palavras!
Thank you. Lovely and inspiring. Can't wait to get started on it! PS. I make my own beeswax finish :)
beau travail c super bravo
Is there any other way to cut the curves without guide bushings?
Mineral oil, not linseed oil.
I love your idea & good job with the presentation.
Gostei!Parabéns!
José Roberto Thank-you!
Why do you hand plane the stripe before putting it into the planer? Wouldn't it be easier just to put it through the planer?
Thank you great idea and craftsmanship. Do you use juice groves
Sometimes: th-cam.com/video/j_NysM2lC7M/w-d-xo.html
Nicely done thanks for sharing I like the fish...
Keep up the great work God bless, By4Now Ken
I look forward to hear from you.
By the way I rang the bell I'm new here to your community💥👍💥
nice
When I do a project I'm going to be finishing it I also look forward to it coming alive at the end most definitely good job bro looks good thanks for sharing your knowledge
Have you thought about using flaxseed oil from the health food store and some beeswax and blend it up in a blender and make your own if you thought about doing that? Look forward to hearing from you God bless,By4Now Ken.
I'm new here to your community down in my videos I'm in the process of putting together a custom stump chair you might like to check that out God bless
Thanks. Nope, have never heard the flaxseed idea
I've seen a few people demonstrate this process, but no one ever explains why you can't do the whole depth with the router instead of finishing on the bandsaw and router table.
Great video Art. Thank you. How wide are the feature strips? 1" for a 3/4" thick cutting board with 1/8" excess on each side after glue up?
that sounds like it would work
Pardon my ignorance or lack of experience with woodworking, but why did you use a router first to cut the groove before splitting it with bandsaw? Just because you wanted to keep the same width of the board? Otherwise, i think you could have just split it with a jigsaw and then sand it. Just curious! Thank you!
You need to remove the same amount of wood that you later replace with the insert strip. Otherwise the two sides of the board are shifted apart and the lines do not line up.
Thanks for sharing this!
You make the cut using a 3 step procedure: guide & bit, band saw, trim bit.
Can this be done in one step with multiple depth passes:
guide & bit with scrap board underneath?
Thanks again...
GaslightAlley I learned it this way, and that's the only way I've done it.
It seems like you could do it that way, but I haven not tried it out. I wonder about tearout on the other side of the board?
GaslightAlley iv tried that, only problem with that method, it the side of the board without the pattern clamped to it needs some how supporting with hot-melt glue or double sided tape, or once you cut through at full depth, it gets fouled by the bit.
Full depth cutting would require real dilligence with router following the pattern, say three times. First couple times I tried this my router wandered (maybe operator inattention) and I had to start over (just cutting 1/4" deep)
nice ,,
So beautiful! Silly question.... how thick did you cut strips?
Thomas Kotch The strips need to add up to exactly the same width as the router bit. In this case 3/8" or .0375"
Divide that by five strips and each strip needs to be about .075 inches thick. (that is just a bit more than 1/16 inch, which would be .0625")
Did you have to soak the inlay pieces in hot water or anything to get them to bend smoothly? Or they just bent fine since they were so thin?
Thanks for the awesome video!
No soaking. They bend because they're thin. Also, the curve is fairly gentle.
Great video! I think I will try to do one like that in my shop. I do have a question for you...I have a Delta DC380 15" planer and I get a lot of snipe. I noticed that you were able to pass your boards through your lunchbox planer without any snipe at all? Any tips or tricks that you can recommend to fix my snipe problem? Thanks!
I find that the Dewalt DW735 has very minimal snipe. The tricks that I've heard to deal with snipe are:
1- flat infeed + outfeed tables
2- attach longer sacrificial pieces on each side of the cutting board, so they take the snipe
3- another version of #2 - feed sacrificial pieces in front and behind the board so that they take the snipe
Thanks Art. Great channel...I'm subscribed now.
Great video. How tight of a curve can you do with that thickness (~1/16th) strip?
It would depend, I think, on the properties of the hardwood. Some hardwood bends easier than others. I'm not an expert on that. I purposely stuck with gentle curves
Only pity is that you did not make it in end grain! It would have been so much more durable and valuable and worth the extra work. You would have to go to 40 mm thick, though. Your finish of wax only, fascinates me. Is it as good as using mineral oil? The boards look nice and the choice of woods are good.
end grain cutting boards are a lot more work. Thanks for the note
Have you done this with end grain cutting boards? Wondered if you then have to try and make the strips end grain as well. I also wanted to ask about your Dewalt planer. Do you get any snipe with it? I have a Stell City planer and I cannot seem to get rid of the snipe. I have it bolted to a 48" long solid infeed and outfeed and I still get snipe.
I've never done this with end-grain.
I get minimal snipe. Some people complain about snipe, but I rarely get much. I'm careful how I feed things, but I also sometimes just make sure my rough stock is long enough to not matter.
wordsnwood ah, I was wondering because you put the cutting board through. I would never be able to do that. I would get at least a 16th inch of snipe on both the leading and trailing edges.
Howard Springsteen I have an old Craftsman planer that I get snipe from. I just take a piece of 2x4, cut it to the same width as whatever I'm running through, and glue it to the ends. It can snipe the heck out of it and I don't care at that point. :)
to defeat snipe I hot glue sacrificial long sticks on the sides of my cutting boards when planing. Or as Art says, make a couple of your cutting board stock pieces longer than the final size, a little simpler than hot glue.
Savage
Amazing!!! what kind of bit did you use for finishing the corners?
+Dartin Cruz The edges were all finished with a small roundovr bit... I'm not sure of the exact size.
thanks A lot!!!
What is the thickness of the inserts how thick can you insert be?
This was all explained in the video, or in more detail in the accompanying web article.
The insert, in total width, needs to match the diameter of the router bit.
Can the inserts be 1/8 thick
The inserts need to add up to the same thickness as your router bit
I find 1/8" strips hard on bend depending on the curve. If you want 1/8 of the same wood, I'd do 2 1/16 side by side. It's not noticable unless you look real close.
I tried this today and made the curves too steep and could not bring the 2 pieces together. It was frustrating to throw it all away in the garbage can. RATS
I don't follow what you mean by "too steep". If your inlay piece is the exact same thickness as the router bit used to make the channel, then the pieces should fit together. Do you mean that the curve was too extreme and the inlay piece could not bend to fit?
Yes too, extreme and I could not bend to fit it. Back to the drawing board. Thanks
sometimes squeeze clamps just cant do the tight compressions needed. I find bar clamps with turnscrew do the job, after you get your squeeae clamps as tight as you can.
how could u use it as a cut board its so nice 😂😂
That is another reason for the finger hole -- I know that at least some of the cutting boards that I've made + given away over the years have been hung up on the wall on display.
+Wordsnwood (Art Mulder) now that you say that they would look pretty cool on a wall. who doesn't love more wood.
BA
Nice work but the whole process of the pattern escapes me when anyone owning a bandsaw should be able to follow a curvy line drawn on the cutting board to begin with. One's bandsaw should always be checked for level table and ensure it is perpendicular to the blade. If so, there'd be no need for the pattern process IMHO.
Please correct me if my thinking is in error.
Very nice looking boards!
+woodstoney Your thinking is in error. :-) :-)
First of all, few of us can exactly follow a curved line on the bandsaw, and any little wiggle in the cut will cause a problem.
But the main issue is that if you just cut a curve the board will look wrong. You need to REMOVE the same amount of wood that is replaced by the curved strips. By doing it that way all the straight lines of the board are preserved. If all you do is cut a curve to separate your cutting board, then all the lines of the board are going to offset by 3/8", which is the thickness of the stripe in this board.
Or just try it your way and tell me how it turns out. :-) Happy new year, and happy woodworking.
+woodstoney In addition to what Art said, your bandsaw is not going to cut a clean enough line for glue up. As soon as you sand it enough, you won't have the same edge on each piece. You'll never get your thin piece to mate up to both sides exactly.
Can we please stop uttering an unnecessary "so" at the start of every sentence? Geez.
at what thickness do you recommend cutting the strips at?
@@Itmovesme1 1/8” or less….
very nice