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More or less yes, because of pixel density, their x-y resolution would be mostly the same, there might be a slight difference but not one that would be noticable.

It really does! xD

I'm glad to hear that it has been going well, adhesion can be tricky depending on the material you use and a bunch of other factors, I'm glad to hear that you were able to resolve it.

hey im planning on ordering one any advices?

I have realised this as well, the CR-10 SE seems to be a lot more sturdy, will be testing that out soon as well. But the overall printing quality doesn't seem to be affected too much even though the hot end isn't the most stable.

It's actually a Hell Boy model, but the framing does indeed make it look a little strange

Agreed

I don't have a profile unfortunately, but I would think that it has something to do with your retraction or flow settings. The flow settings are automatically calculated by Cura, so try playing around with the retraction distance and speed, a good starting place would be 35mm/s for speed, and 5mm for distance. Hope that helps

Because the build plate was brand new, no adhesive was needed, but otherwise, I would use standard hairspray just to give it a light coat before heating the bed. For PLA and PETG, that usually is more than enough to keep the print on the bed, in addition to the correct bed temperature of course.

Yes it should, this Box 2.0 is advertised to work with nearly any creality printer, and some printers running certain open source firmwares.

We offer technical support as well, you can send us an email to support@3dprintingstore.co.za so one of our technicians can help you with getting that file ready for printing

Oh really! That's really good to know, thanks for telling me

I was having some super funky issues with prints and contacting support led me to manually adjusting the screw as well as I threw some washer in-between the build plate and the bracket cause I seemed short? Almost printing alot better now but having some crazy issues like I'm using phrozen 8k resin at .03 layer height and any exposure time under 3seconds the print won't even bother to build up

I have personally not yet tried using non Anycubic film, but the lifespan of FEP film can be long if you work carefully, and if you don't have too many failures that might cause damage. I personally don't believe it should be a problem using other FEP film, you will just have to dial in the first layer settings for whichever film you decide to use.

@@3DPrintingStorecoza thankyou for the reply and for the insight. That helps.

Hi there! Yes, you are able to use both the pause at hight and filament change features in Cura on the KE. You can just create a custom profile for the KE using the SE as your base, then copy and paste the beginning and end G-Code from Creality Print to that profile in Cura to make sure that everything else works as well.

Its all good, It is a multi coloured filament roll, so throughout the spool of filament, it has a gradient of different colours.

It depends on you would need exactly, you can get larger and smaller stepper motors, different drivers etc. This exact system would put you back about R2200

@@3DPrintingStorecoza Thanks. Always wanted to give a CNC a spin. I also heard of some conversions available for the Ender 3 printer to convert to CNC. Something else you guys could look into and MUCH easier to setup.

Will do so! Yea, this video is for those who want to build their own custom rigs but aren't too sure of the wiring and components. If you get a Cron Craft, most (Nearly all) of these steps have already been take care of

@@3DPrintingStorecoza OOO! And while you at it, do the Creality Laser engraver attachment! That also looks interesting!

I am glad that you enjoyed the video. I would highly recommend getting the vibration compensation sensor which I mentioned in the video along with the printer, at higher speeds, this printer does unfortunately show ghosting and ringing a bit. But with the compensation sensor, you should be able to completely or mostly get rid of all the ghosting and ringing.

@@3DPrintingStorecoza Ok. Thank you. I have bought this printer and been waiting for it to arrive. Your review helped me to choose it. Keep up the content!

That's not a bad idea, you just to make sure that you clean out the bottle thoroughly to make sure you don't mix the old resin with the new one.

This is actually my obstacle before deciding to buy this printer. This thought did cross my mind, have you done it yourself?

I'm glad you liked the video! The filament colour is "Rainbow Kingfisher", it is one of our own CRON filaments

The Webcam is sold separately yes, but Creality also has a "Smart kit 2.0", which has the box 2.0 and the webcam together.

The Creality Box 2.0 does indeed work with different types of USB cameras yes, I apologise if I didn't answer all of your questions in this video.

Im soorry bro Im not atacking you but more like aiming at creality for making products that do not work together but a random 1080 camera will work with something like the 2.0 Box makes no sense to me. They even pretty much advertise their products to work together when the truth is that one thing will not work unless its paired with another specific thing even if the functionality is and parts are identical to one another. Look at all the different versions of Box they have.@@3DPrintingStorecoza

I completely forgot to do so, here is the link to the download on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6428358

Glad I could help!

@@3DPrintingStorecoza I’m subbing!

Photon workshop is available on mac, you just have to copy to the usb key

Enjoy it!

Glad you enjoyed it!

I'm glad to hear that you are enjoying your printer! We either use Ultimaker Cura or Creality Print to slice our files, for both Wanhao and Cron PLA, a nozzle temp of 200°C is perfect, and a bed temp of 60°C should be fine as well, that can drop to 45°C of you want. Print at speeds of about 300mm/s as this is the fastest reliable speed for the K1, simple parts could be printed at faster speeds as there is less that can go wrong, but that is up to your judgement. I hope these settings can assist you a little, if you have something else you are curious about, feel free to ask anytime

@@3DPrintingStorecoza Awesome. Thanks again. Weird though as I print my Cron and Wanhou on my CR6 at 210... But all good...

@@DeanosRides 10°C above or below 200°C should still work perfectly fine, anything more than that will start creating some issues with the finish of the print.

@@3DPrintingStorecoza Yea, anything below 200 becomes a bit of a mess! 🤣🤣 Thanks for the help guys! You guys are truly awesome to deal with!

I'm sorry to hear that, one thing I might suggest that could help is to lower the retraction speed of the bed, it could be that the force created when the build plate rises up is too much for the adhesion. A speed of around 5mm/s or even down to 2mm/s should be good, this will make the print take slightly longer though. Hopefully this helps a bit

Since the recording of this video, Creality Print came out in which you can slice your print and upload it to your Creality Cloud. So you no longer have to slice it and manually upload it to the SD card and insert it into the Box 2.0, which is a huge improvement.

use creality print on your pc, you can send straight to the printer then by un ticking the exact printer box and selecting your, then tick send file after selecting LAN/WAN from the slicer screen. the files will also be backed up onto the micro sd thats in the creality box

Yes, it works with nearly every Creality 3D printer

It is not technically necessary, but air assist helps improve the detail of the cut, and keep the lens cleaner for longer, on that same note, honeycomb bedding helps not leave scorch marks on the back of cuts and helps you avoid engraving whatever backplate you use, in this case the bottom of the printing bed.

That helps so much! Also can you plug the 10w laser directly in to the ender 3s1 pro without using the control box or only the 5 and 1w?

@@AlexOscarsWorld I don't have an answer for you yet, but our guys will be testing it out today to see if it is possible

Hi just curious did it work?

Our technical team couldn't get to it last week unfortunately, they said they will try to get to it today, so I will let you know later if they do and what they figure out.

The standard Halot Mage is quite a bit cheaper and all of its printing specs are exactly the same, it just doesn't have the pump or the USB port for the Nebula camera, which makes it not too bad of an option for me.

The fumes from resin printers can cause headaches, nausea, and many asthmatic symptoms. So you would rather want it in a well ventilated room, or a different room to you entirely. Some people are completely unbothered by the smell or fumes, but most people are affected by it.

The reason was because my camera can only record up to 29 minutes, and the dragon print was 7 hours+ and printed overnight so I couldn't record the printing process, I can assure you that the dragon was printed on the M5s.

@@3DPrintingStorecoza But you never even showed the dragon. 🙄 so suspect.

@@alvinjones593 I unfortunately only had footage of the print once it was finished, my camera only records for 29 minutes, and because the print was over 6 hours, I couldn't record the process, I apologise if this caused confusion.

It works with all Creality printers yes, if you are worried about the USB connection port, the box comes with a converter to USB-C