I’m new to chainsaws and trying to learn to sharpen. I’ve already ruined one of my chains in the process of learning. That one step you said about doing your weak side first and moving around the saw so I’m always using my right hand when sharpening has been a game changer for me. I’ve watch two of the videos you have on sharpening. Thank you for this.
Thank you Richard for an excellent video. I’ve always had trouble with coordination with my left hand, and I totally agree with the frustration factor that sets in. I am going to try your tip on starting with my bad side first. I must admit that is really a good idea, since it’s always better to to finish off with confidence in the file. I will confess that my files are usually used up until I watch a video like yours and then I’ll breakdown and buy some new ones. I still keep thje old ones for other file work on equipment that just needs a bit of centering. I’m sure if I watch the video a couple more times I can bring myself to part with useless files and a whole bunch of other parts that I was sure I could use someday.
@@Sethhaun78 Nothing wrong with a grinder. With some fine tuning an patience, a grinder can almost do as good as hand filing. The harder Tecomec wheels are 10X better than the standard wheels.
My files stay sharp longer if I do two thiengs. One, I oil the file before use. Two I wipe or card the file after each side of a chain sharpening. The oil I use is tread cutting oil, but I am not sure it matters. It keeps the filings from packing the file. One thing about your filing that had me wondering is the great number of strokes you were using, Three or four and I am done unless the saw had been eating dirt or great grand-dads fence nails. You were doing a great job of staying on the level and that is rare on TH-cam demos Thanks!
More good info. I always replace my chains way before getting to the mark on the cutting tooth. Because I run vintage saws, which many do not have a replaceable sprocket, I replace the chain before it stretches so far that it eats up the sprocket teeth. Some clutch drums are very hard to find. I do have several of my biggest, and least used saws, that have worn chains, so I will try out your filing tips when I next service them. On my most used saws, I use the PHERD 2 in 1 file with great results. I am not a pro and just do firewood and tree management. I have used Vallorbe files for a long time, but have found the PHERD files are better. How about doing a comparison !
I have both Vallorbe and Pferd Classic Cut on my bench and the Pferd are definitely better. They cut faster and they last longer. They're more expensive but it's worth it IMO. Once you start using the Pferd it's hard to go back to the Swiss files. I feel like even a pretty well used Pferd file cuts better than a brand new Vallorbe
Actually when the raker depth gsuge gets put on top it can dull the teeth we just sharpened that hardend steel.pressed down does dull the tip..i use gordys gauges and take it off so not to dull it .all them years never knew that
I feel my filing skills are pretty good but the issue I have is the I get terrible kick back on chains I have sharpened. I’ve dicked around with filing the racker tooth but still have issues. thoughts?
Have a look at one of your chains and see if you are filing into the chassis. You may have too much hook. Are you using a tool to set the the height of the raker? That's my best guess.
David, if you are using a stihl 2 in 1 file you won't ever get the chain to not be grabby or want to kick back unless you're in soft wood. It's a nightmare when you try to bore cut when using the 2 in 1 tool. If you gotta use the 2 in 1 you can take the raker file out and still use it but it won't drop the rakers and you'll be fine. I use a west coast saws raker guage and it's fine. Best though is grinding them so everything is perfect
I find this to be a common problem...there are specialized tools to true them up but I've always just clamped the bar in a vice and use a draw filing stroke to even them out. I probably have better angle control than most due to being a professional knife sharpener that works freehand. It's pretty easy for me to hold correct angles
I keep watching these sharpening videos and I see everyone using the 7/32 files on there 3/8 chain but when you go to stihl dealer or anywhere else the recommend you use the 13/64 why is this? And what the hell is all the other holes and angles for on the raker gauge you showed I have the same ones and always wonder what all the BS Is on there for
13/64 files do a fine job. They actually do a better job towards the end of the tooth. The smaller diameter allows you to keep the proper hook without getting too far into the chassis. On the last filing or two you could even get down to a 3/16 file meant for .325 chain. To most, it's just a preference using a 7/32 file. Some major brands of file don't make a 13/64. I personally like the Vallorbe files.
Those holes on the top are sighting edges for filing angle: 10°, 30°, 35°. 10° is for ripping chains. On the left side of the gauge there is a bar groove cleaner and scale for measuring the groove depth of the guide bar. The holes on the side are sighting edges for side plate angle of the chain (e.g. 75°).
@@elpolaco7654 Yeah I knew about the grove cleaner and the depth gauge on them just was curious what all the other ones was for thanks for the info much appreciated
@@richardflagg3084 Thanks I have since bought both I have one chain I’m using the 7/32 file on and another saw and chain I’m using the 13/64 on just and experiment to see which might cut faster I’m my trees in Pennsylvanian and if I can tell a difference in the sharpness on either one. I run the 7/32 on an MS400 25 inch lite bar and the 13/64 on a MS261 20 inch lite bar. So far I haven’t noticed much difference but soon I plan to get a double bevel flat file and give square grinding a go. Just waiting until I get about half way through the chain saw in another video the square filing is easier after you get down to the half way point.
Great explanation, Richard.
I’m new to chainsaws and trying to learn to sharpen. I’ve already ruined one of my chains in the process of learning.
That one step you said about doing your weak side first and moving around the saw so I’m always using my right hand when sharpening has been a game changer for me.
I’ve watch two of the videos you have on sharpening. Thank you for this.
Thanks!
Clear and concise. Much thanks.
A very good tutorial on this subject, and much appreciated.
Very good, simple and to the point explanation👍🏻
👍 Great video Richard.
Great information Richard!🤩🤩
Hope it helps. Once you understand what you're doing wrong, you'll get better faster. Good luck and happy cutting!
Hey Richard, thanks for the vid
Thank you Richard for an excellent video. I’ve always had trouble with coordination with my left hand, and I totally agree with the frustration factor that sets in. I am going to try your tip on starting with my bad side first. I must admit that is really a good idea, since it’s always better to to finish off with confidence in the file. I will confess that my files are usually used up until I watch a video like yours and then I’ll breakdown and buy some new ones. I still keep thje old ones for other file work on equipment that just needs a bit of centering. I’m sure if I watch the video a couple more times I can bring myself to part with useless files and a whole bunch of other parts that I was sure I could use someday.
Where do you think I got the wore out files for the video? Lol!! Why I have a tumbler full of old files, I have no idea. Thanks for the kind words.
But need a grinder time wise.its fun sometimes to just good old hsndfile. But I'm so buisy tree service landscaping and mowing buisness. Alone to boot
@@Sethhaun78 Nothing wrong with a grinder. With some fine tuning an patience, a grinder can almost do as good as hand filing. The harder Tecomec wheels are 10X better than the standard wheels.
Uncle Richard teach’n all his hard headed nephews a lil something on a Saturday morning!! Thank ya!
😂😂😂 Whaaaaas up?!
@@cajun3197
Man, just laying low, stay’n outta trouble 😎
You stihl on outage? I’ve ran that 2511t a couple hours yesterday…. It’s sooo impressive!
@@darrellpeak2914 still got 2 outages going. 😑😂😂😂
@@cajun3197 saw crackers feening hard for a new vid from you!!
Enjoy you videos chap 🤘
Thank You!
Rich very good points.
Just could not use a double bevel file on them rakers.
Happy and safe cutting.
My files stay sharp longer if I do two thiengs. One, I oil the file before use. Two I wipe or card the file after each side of a chain sharpening. The oil I use is tread cutting oil, but I am not sure it matters. It keeps the filings from packing the file. One thing about your filing that had me wondering is the great number of strokes you were using, Three or four and I am done unless the saw had been eating dirt or great grand-dads fence nails. You were doing a great job of staying on the level and that is rare on TH-cam demos Thanks!
Great tip on file maintenance!
These stihl chains are hard on my files have stihl files echo files and Swiss made from baleys,and double bevel.+and triangle or 8 side edges
Have you tried the stihl 2 in 1 file guide? I also bought some soft grip magnetic jaws for my vise as I hate marring my stihl light bar..
More good info. I always replace my chains way before getting to the mark on the cutting tooth. Because I run vintage saws, which many do not have a replaceable sprocket, I replace the chain before it stretches so far that it eats up the sprocket teeth. Some clutch drums are very hard to find. I do have several of my biggest, and least used saws, that have worn chains, so I will try out your filing tips when I next service them. On my most used saws, I use the PHERD 2 in 1 file with great results. I am not a pro and just do firewood and tree management. I have used Vallorbe files for a long time, but have found the PHERD files are better. How about doing a comparison !
OK! I'll do it. Thanks for the idea
I have both Vallorbe and Pferd Classic Cut on my bench and the Pferd are definitely better. They cut faster and they last longer. They're more expensive but it's worth it IMO. Once you start using the Pferd it's hard to go back to the Swiss files. I feel like even a pretty well used Pferd file cuts better than a brand new Vallorbe
I’m guilty of trying to get something out if worn to hell chains and files. Great tips 😎
Ты написал чушь!
@@kost9354 👍🏽
👍🆙🐊
@@Doc-Cole_Trickle-of-Chainsaws 😉 hey buddy. Guy above says I typed nonsense 😂😂😂
@@cajun3197 he just doesn't understand sawdorkian😏🙂😀🤣
Спасибо 🙏💕 за видео! 🎥
Actually when the raker depth gsuge gets put on top it can dull the teeth we just sharpened that hardend steel.pressed down does dull the tip..i use gordys gauges and take it off so not to dull it .all them years never knew that
That first chain can is definitely salvageable. Plenty of metal left. You knew you would get a little flack about it. 😁
Just turn this upside down if you’re right or left handed it works
I'm stubborn and irrational when it comes to chains. I would've sharpened that first chain 😬
Get the gullet!
get the gullet..... gullet gang
What file handles are those?
Where did you get those aluminum file handles???
I made them on the lathe.
Nicely done! Wish I could find those for sale somewhere. Keep up the always informative videos Richard!!
I feel my filing skills are pretty good but the issue I have is the I get terrible kick back on chains I have sharpened. I’ve dicked around with filing the racker tooth but still have issues. thoughts?
Have a look at one of your chains and see if you are filing into the chassis. You may have too much hook. Are you using a tool to set the the height of the raker? That's my best guess.
@@richardflagg3084 I’m using a Stihl 2-1 file that sharpens the tooth and raker
@@davidkrajcovic5018 Those do a great job. Probably the best sharpening "gadget" on the market.
David, if you are using a stihl 2 in 1 file you won't ever get the chain to not be grabby or want to kick back unless you're in soft wood. It's a nightmare when you try to bore cut when using the 2 in 1 tool. If you gotta use the 2 in 1 you can take the raker file out and still use it but it won't drop the rakers and you'll be fine. I use a west coast saws raker guage and it's fine. Best though is grinding them so everything is perfect
@@jeremylyons6252 thank you for the reply and guidance,
You will get a curve cut also if the bar rails are not even.
I find this to be a common problem...there are specialized tools to true them up but I've always just clamped the bar in a vice and use a draw filing stroke to even them out. I probably have better angle control than most due to being a professional knife sharpener that works freehand. It's pretty easy for me to hold correct angles
Sounds like a pain in the ass! I'm just going to buy a new chain.
👍🆙RF
I keep watching these sharpening videos and I see everyone using the 7/32 files on there 3/8 chain but when you go to stihl dealer or anywhere else the recommend you use the 13/64 why is this? And what the hell is all the other holes and angles for on the raker gauge you showed I have the same ones and always wonder what all the BS Is on there for
13/64 files do a fine job. They actually do a better job towards the end of the tooth. The smaller diameter allows you to keep the proper hook without getting too far into the chassis. On the last filing or two you could even get down to a 3/16 file meant for .325 chain.
To most, it's just a preference using a 7/32 file. Some major brands of file don't make a 13/64. I personally like the Vallorbe files.
@@richardflagg3084 сделайте видео, программу🎥 об MS260 и заточки еë цепи 325!!! Пожалуйста😫🙏🙏💓
Those holes on the top are sighting edges for filing angle: 10°, 30°, 35°. 10° is for ripping chains.
On the left side of the gauge there is a bar groove cleaner and scale for measuring the groove depth of the guide bar.
The holes on the side are sighting edges for side plate angle of the chain (e.g. 75°).
@@elpolaco7654 Yeah I knew about the grove cleaner and the depth gauge on them just was curious what all the other ones was for thanks for the info much appreciated
@@richardflagg3084 Thanks I have since bought both I have one chain I’m using the 7/32 file on and another saw and chain I’m using the 13/64 on just and experiment to see which might cut faster I’m my trees in Pennsylvanian and if I can tell a difference in the sharpness on either one. I run the 7/32 on an MS400 25 inch lite bar and the 13/64 on a MS261 20 inch lite bar. So far I haven’t noticed much difference but soon I plan to get a double bevel flat file and give square grinding a go. Just waiting until I get about half way through the chain saw in another video the square filing is easier after you get down to the half way point.