Yes! Sharp advice, well articulated. I’m in the UK and I sharpen exactly like this. I tap the file to clear the swarf, I lift the file on the back stroke to prevent the teeth ‘knocking over’, I file ‘til it raises a burr and the burr falls off and I can't see the sharp edge, end on. I don’t use gadgets, except for a depth gauge file guide. And then I round off the back of the ‘flat’ on the top of the depth gauge to mimic the original profile - important on a chain without anti-kickback ramps like yours has. You stress the importance of correct height on the depth gauge (which you call a raker). Low depth gauges, exactly as you say) produces grabbing and vibration. And then your saw cuts without your having to apply any pressure. I'm always stressing this because by pushing on the saw to make it cut, you are gripping tighter. This exacerbates the effects of vibration, despite A/V mounts. Vibration damages tissues and can result in carpal tunnel syndrome or Reynaud’s syndrome (also known as whitefinger or HAVS). There is an operation for the first (painful and needs rehab afterwards plus time off work) but for Hand Arm Vibration Syndrome, it’s nerve damage. Nerves don’t regenerate, so it’s yours for life. Happy days. Keep posting, Tinman.
That is how my dad who had a sawmill taught me to sharpen 50 years ago and it still works all these years later. Now I am learning to square file and I think I like it. Heating fuel is going to be extra expensive this winter thanks to a certain persons policies so a great wood pile is a great money saver.
Man I really liked your video but it looks like you're left hand is more square with bar than the right. Not being a smartass , just an observation. I sharpen a chain the same way. The video was very informative, thanks !
I have been collecting firewood for some time. I saw a video of this guy north of the Arctic circle collecting firewood and he looked like he had enough for several years but it didn't stop him from collecting more. There is nothing like the radiant heat from a proper wood stove unless you are eating some bean with ham soup.
@@hillbilly4christ638 Iam in Ohio our winters as of late haven’t been to bad but bare minimum I keep 3 winter worth of wood all the time my thought was what if I get hurt or sick and can’t cut for a season atleast that way I have wood here that’s easy to get so I can heal up just my thought on multiple years of wood and it gives the wood time to season up good I like atleast a year season but 2-3 is better that way you know for a fact it’s as dry as it can be and it burns half again hotter seasoned 2 years versus 1 year just my opinion/thought lol
I switched to a 2 in 1 after going to buy a new file and being up sold the 2 in 1 and I'll never use anything else again. Saves having to go over the rakers and sharpens bloody awesome. I've sharpened chains that cut better than out of the box!
Good job! I used to grind the chains ! I switched to filing after I watched a Buckin Billy Ray video! It takes a while however once you master the file you’ll never go back I like to touch up the chain every time I gas up the saw! I bought a little stump vice to sharpen in the field!
A different observation from someone who has been hand sharpening chains for 50 years. The angle is easy when filing; the consistent height of the file in the tooth is the tricky part. It takes a conscious effort, and lots of practice to keep it the same stroke after stroke tooth after tooth, especially as the tooth wears and shortens. I have worn out dozens of chains over the years, and when there are only nubs of teeth left, every single one of my cutters are exactly the same, with a perfectly flat bottom and correctly shaped tooth. The key is using one of the cheap Oregon file guides wildland firefighters taught me to use 50 years ago. It does not take one second more to sharpen a chain with the guide; in fact, I contend it is faster because the only thing you need to pay attention to is the angle, and that's easy. The guide keeps the file at the proper depth on the tooth, and maintains that proper depth as as the tooth geometry changes with wear. If your free hand filed, worn out chain looks exactly the same as it did when it was new, only shorter, by all means, throw out the guide. If not, these $8 guides are a no-brainer that deliver both speed and perfect results.
Just came across this and I appreciate your insight. I've been heating my house with wood since 1984 and got into the electric sharpener gimmicks. It's nice to hand sharpen again. Oh, my wife heard the last of you video and the comment about a life changing experience...she said you've been in the woods way too long! Bwahaha! Then she gave me that "wink" ;)
Just came across this video, great information. I've used chainsaws some over the years but have recently gotten into cutting a lot of wood. I've been taking my chains to a local hardware store to have sharpened, it's on and off, the guy told me when I asked, do you check the rakers, he said nahhh, no need to. The last two sharpenings seem pretty bad, the chain don't last long, I get some shavings and some sawdust. The chains get hot quickly! I think I'll try this myself, I sharpen most everything else so why not this. Thanks for the video. You can teach an old dog new tricks 🤣
Buckin has for sure taught thousands of people to PROPERLY sharpen their chains. I thought I did a pretty good job. Self taught and 30 years of cutting firewood. After watching Buckin's videos I was like WOW really. Now my chains have never been sharper.
I'm a little late to your Chanel, but I'm loving the content! I have a suggestion for your winter cutting. My uncle used to customize chains for dirty hardwood., he would use his silvey grinder, take an old beat up chain, and change the top plate angle from the traditional 25-30° to somewhere between 15-20° with a touch lower on the rakers. This with a skip tooth chain would hit more like a chisel then a cutter, and the skip would give the momentum to pull through. It was an excellent chain fir hard wood, I even cut through a metal T post with a 346xp, full house 18" chain, that wad right behind my hing on a 22" eucalyptus blue gum that was planted on a fence line. That chain would hit rock and dirt in a flush cut and only dull 3 teeth. If you still have a grinder and some old chain, I suggest messing around with those degrees between milling chain, and the 30° popularized by logging semi soft wood, that is sold by oregon, stihl, and all the other popular brands.
I HAVE A BIG BELLY SO IM A GREAT CHAIN SHARPENER I GUESS ALL THOSE SUNDAY ROASTBEEF DINNERS HELPED ME OUT🤣🤣🤣👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽LOL ALL JOKES ASIDE GREAT VIDEO TINMAN GREAT WAY OF EXPLAINING THINGS TAKE CARE BUDDY
Awesome man I was wondering when you were gonna put a video up bud!!! Very nice video tinman. I cannot wait for your high-speed internet. Love to see some tinman live. Cannot wait.
Firewood is the bomb, sharpening a chainsaw is essential to this. This is a very good instructional vid. I have watched dozens of sharpening vids. You have covered everything here, I agree with the exercise thing for sure, I am 61 it is even more important now......thanks for this vid.
Is it me but I find great satisfaction in hand filing. My first attempts were a disaster !!! Like you after watching Buckin BR, my chainsaw now rips through logs like butter. Great video as usual . Wish I could give more than one👍
I was instructed to generally sharpen the teeth in such a manner that 1/8 of the file stands proud of the top of the tooth when passing through the gullet. Definitely wait until the burr forms and disappears, as mentioned. Was also under the impression that lowering the rakers in a uniform manner as a set, rather than per tooth, was a good way to ensure a smooth-cutting chain. I believe the assumption is that any teeth that are too high (needed less filing initially) will be dulled early (yes there is some chatter) and will be addressed at the next sharpening, haha. So far so good, on my end. Also, the file has a twist built in, so I rotate the file every 10 swipes or so instead of twisting. They seem to wear more evenly.
These are such informational videos that you have been putting out! I've learned so much about porting from you and The Ironhorse. In fact you two helped me port my first power saw with fantastic results. I always can't wait to see your new videos.
i've just been watching "guilty of treeson's" guide too square filing well worth a look they compared round and square came out 45% faster with square!!! really buckin is great on his filing and correct but square filing is like warp speeding your cutting! with the right angles it can make a more durable tooth edge, i was shockingly impressed!
Yes, I watched their video a month or so ago. I could not believe the difference in a new chain vs hand filed round file, and hand filed square filed. Time in the cut went from almost :30 seconds to less than :15. Why all the porting, etc chasing seconds when filing made a bigger difference.
First Steve, then Buckin, and he inspired me to learn this. Been loving your channel, and if I ever send my saw out, it’s coming to you. This helped me on the rakers man, I appreciate it.
Great video Tinman. Please explain to me the importance of pulling the starter cord out before killing the engine, I’m trying to learn all I can and really appreciate you
You mentioned needing to wear cheaters- they can actually help when sharpening a chain so you can see burrs on the chain that you might not catch with the naked eye. Nothing wrong with a little bit of eye protection at the same time. Thanks for this how to video and the encouragement to go out and make it happen.
Great information-thank you. I agree-life is better after cutting wood. Interested in how you “hop up” your saws! When I was a kid-I had a Rupp Dart Kart w a Mac91B motor that I windowed the piston on. It ran like a bat outta hell. I would coast backwards down our driveway, and the burn rubber all the way up until my dad finally told me to knock that shit off. I run a Stihl 441 Mag clearing my land here in Arkinsaw-How do we hop it up ? 🤔
between you and Buckin I finally "sharpened" my chain. I used to go through the motion of filling, but what a difference getting the Gullet will do for you.
Good video liked it a lot much better hat! Notice it looks like you use the same files as buckn his has the green ring at the end what brand are they? They seem to really take the metal off quick
WHAT? You weren't born knowing how to port? I knew a guy that did a little porting on his way out! Lol Great video Tinman. Thank you, you're appreciated.
I file the same way but I like to keep a file guide for the shop. After work I’ll sharpen all my chains free hand but then take a file guide and by tilting the guide back a little I can get a thinner edge on the top plate. It only takes a swipe or two after a full sharpen and it will be razor sharp. I kinda took that from guilty of treeson channel although he probably does it a little different.
I also use a sharpie to mark my start point, but soon i will have to have Chris sharpen the chains, because i know i wont be able to see the gullet in a few years. I was taught to put a sharpie coating into the gullet many years ago, to be able to see that i was getting the gullet and to check my angles, these are a few good tricks to help a person learn about sharpening a chain. How it works is the dot on top identifies the start point, the coloring of the gullet area shows how you are sharpening, so if you miss an area of the gullet, you will see the remaining sharpie mark, and need to either continue to sharpen or change your angle!
I hand file this way, and every 2 or 3 I run the Stihl 2 in 1. It's a matter of efficiency, keeps me in the game all day long. The Stihl 2 in 1 is not just for beginners, but a little slower and hand filing gets the gullet and the underside of the top plate a little better, imho.
Hey Tinman, just came to your channel via Buckin Billy , I cut lots of firewood for myself and others and I agree , you need a sharp chain, cutting with a dull chain is hard on the saw and hard on yourself
Morning sir, good sharpening tutorial here. A couple additional ideas. You were tapping the file - that's to clean it out folks. They load up quite quick and need to be cleaned. Speaking of files - they're relatively cheap - I buy them a box at a time and when they're even a wee bit dull they go away. Filing on the tailgate is about right for most people for height and ergonomics. If you take even a 2' long chunk of 6"x 6" or a tad bigger, cut a slot into it and drop the front of the bar in that slot while sharpening it'll squirm around less. Anyways, just thoughts from a semi-old guy who's been cutting firewood for 40+ years. Stay well Tinman.
Ya anything you can do to get that saw more stable while learning will help immensely! I’ll also tighten the chain on the bar before starting. Quite tight. Stops that bit of wiggle the chain gets on the bar. Just remember to loosen it again afterwards. Good tip there RC
Hand sharpening is the “peaceful” part of running MY saws. It’s when I get to take a break and assess myself for: tired, thirsty, hungry, or anything else for that matter. Heck, it gives my brain a chance to think about other things besides that big “potentially” dangerous thing that I’m running.
What brands of files do you recommend. I have used the oregon files from the big box stores and they dull rather quick and do not cut very fast. I get maybe three sharpening's out of them before they are toast.
After getting a 61 white top with a 272xp cylinder and piston and carb, then learning hand filing from Buckin, cutting wood is fun again. Now after watching your videos I'm going to have a go at doing a conversion AND a port job myself. Thank you!
It is Billy Ray that gave me a way for success. I just uploaded two video's paying homage to Buckin one is Bucking Red Oak in NH. and the other is Falling a red Oak with Humboldt in NH. Its good to hear an other say it the way it is. Thanks
I count out of ocd and to have an idea of how much I had to work that tooth if one take 30 and one take 15 then on takes about 30 I check my riders and oiler just helps me catch things before it's to late and damage the bar or kills the chain
Also, buying a machine like a chain grinder has a negative effect on the environment (collectively, it adds up). Blunt files can be thrown in the scrap steel bin and be recycled with a bit of energy, which may have come from the sun, or wind, etc. Just another tick for hand filing.
Like u said I used to hate filing my chains but now I love it. I'm gonna go file my chains now might go get wood tomorrow 🪵🪵🪵🪵🪵🪓 Thanks to you and Buckin' Billy Ray for the inspiration 👍😀
I find the oregon files are a smoother cut the husqvarna intensive cuts are great files but are an aggressive cutting file and dont seem to last as long as the oregon files ill get about 10 sharpenings on the oregon file on a 24" bar and only about 6-8 on the husqvarna
Thanks for the video I as well am way better at hand filling thanks to buckin. It has made me enjoy running a saw much more. If you want to try another file brand I like save edge they are pretty sharp and quick cutting. And I also like pferd they have many different cutting files
He’s got a video on tuning carbs and it’s a good one. The cliff notes: raise idle with screw until chain is whirring along. Adjust L jet until it is at peak velocity then back out just a hair to slow it down. Turn your idle back down. Check for 1-pull restart and saw running well laying on its side. Now tune your H jet so it has a raspy 4-stroke note as it maxes RPM, but cleans up when you sink it into wood. Tune carb only when saw is warmed up. (On H&L jets? In is lean, out is rich)
Sorry tin man... the stihl 2 in one sharpener is the best device I have ever used in 35 years in 4 strokes your chain rt before your eyes shapes into a brand new chain and files the rakers at the same time. You cannot tell the difference between a new chain and the one I filed, not to mention sharper than factory
Stay with it Kain👍it’s like learning how to play an instrument. Practice practice practice. What helped me the most other than this amazing community is this. Don’t let it get too far gone between sharpening’s. Touch it up after each tank or two. It’s far less daunting of a task and you’ll get more practice in a shorter span. Building up your muscle memory each time. Hope this helps🙂
@@shapeshifter7753 Thank buddy! Practice makes perfect....I still get a little confused on what file size to use also...is there a quick rule of thumb?
Kain Kustom Garage I don’t hear this mentioned ever but my experience is line up the bottom of your file to the second bend below your cutter. The top of your file should now be just above your cutting edge. That bend is also a guide😉keep filling following that bend in the side plate and you’ll always have the correct gullet profile😁 have a good look. She’s subtle but this helped me a lot! Mostly cause I deal with various brands and vintages of chain
Buckin changed the game once he start teaching people how to hand file it's way better then any guide tool. Plus is there really anything more relaxing then sitting down an filing
I just wanted to know, do you have any experience with a helicoil as a replacement for a stripped spark plug thread? I have killed mine because of stupidity and not paying attention. Maybe you can help me with that
There's only ONE way! Hand filing. This is it. I made a hand filing out of an old wood cable spool, an old 3.5" vise, and some old pieces of 2x4 and 2x12. Now I can sit on my ass while I hand file in the shop. It's pretty friggin sweet. Sittin on my ass, listenin to tunes, with a peench of snuff, and hand filing away. 👏🤣
Yes! Sharp advice, well articulated.
I’m in the UK and I sharpen exactly like this. I tap the file to clear the swarf, I lift the file on the back stroke to prevent the teeth ‘knocking over’, I file ‘til it raises a burr and the burr falls off and I can't see the sharp edge, end on. I don’t use gadgets, except for a depth gauge file guide. And then I round off the back of the ‘flat’ on the top of the depth gauge to mimic the original profile - important on a chain without anti-kickback ramps like yours has. You stress the importance of correct height on the depth gauge (which you call a raker). Low depth gauges, exactly as you say) produces grabbing and vibration.
And then your saw cuts without your having to apply any pressure. I'm always stressing this because by pushing on the saw to make it cut, you are gripping tighter. This exacerbates the effects of vibration, despite A/V mounts. Vibration damages tissues and can result in carpal tunnel syndrome or Reynaud’s syndrome (also known as whitefinger or HAVS). There is an operation for the first (painful and needs rehab afterwards plus time off work) but for Hand Arm Vibration Syndrome, it’s nerve damage. Nerves don’t regenerate, so it’s yours for life. Happy days.
Keep posting, Tinman.
That is how my dad who had a sawmill taught me to sharpen 50 years ago and it still works all these years later. Now I am learning to square file and I think I like it. Heating fuel is going to be extra expensive this winter thanks to a certain persons policies so a great wood pile is a great money saver.
Oh yeah! Square filing is great! I started to square file a bit more than year ago and i like it better! Thanks to Buckin'!
Man I really liked your video but it looks like you're left hand is more square with bar than the right. Not being a smartass , just an observation. I sharpen a chain the same way. The video was very informative, thanks !
I have been collecting firewood for some time. I saw a video of this guy north of the Arctic circle collecting firewood and he looked like he had enough for several years but it didn't stop him from collecting more. There is nothing like the radiant heat from a proper wood stove unless you are eating some bean with ham soup.
@@hillbilly4christ638 Iam in Ohio our winters as of late haven’t been to bad but bare minimum I keep 3 winter worth of wood all the time my thought was what if I get hurt or sick and can’t cut for a season atleast that way I have wood here that’s easy to get so I can heal up just my thought on multiple years of wood and it gives the wood time to season up good I like atleast a year season but 2-3 is better that way you know for a fact it’s as dry as it can be and it burns half again hotter seasoned 2 years versus 1 year just my opinion/thought lol
I switched to a 2 in 1 after going to buy a new file and being up sold the 2 in 1 and I'll never use anything else again. Saves having to go over the rakers and sharpens bloody awesome.
I've sharpened chains that cut better than out of the box!
Good job! I used to grind the chains ! I switched to filing after I watched a Buckin Billy Ray video! It takes a while however once you master the file you’ll never go back I like to touch up the chain every time I gas up the saw! I bought a little stump vice to sharpen in the field!
A different observation from someone who has been hand sharpening chains for 50 years. The angle is easy when filing; the consistent height of the file in the tooth is the tricky part. It takes a conscious effort, and lots of practice to keep it the same stroke after stroke tooth after tooth, especially as the tooth wears and shortens. I have worn out dozens of chains over the years, and when there are only nubs of teeth left, every single one of my cutters are exactly the same, with a perfectly flat bottom and correctly shaped tooth. The key is using one of the cheap Oregon file guides wildland firefighters taught me to use 50 years ago. It does not take one second more to sharpen a chain with the guide; in fact, I contend it is faster because the only thing you need to pay attention to is the angle, and that's easy. The guide keeps the file at the proper depth on the tooth, and maintains that proper depth as as the tooth geometry changes with wear. If your free hand filed, worn out chain looks exactly the same as it did when it was new, only shorter, by all means, throw out the guide. If not, these $8 guides are a no-brainer that deliver both speed and perfect results.
Just came across this and I appreciate your insight. I've been heating my house with wood since 1984 and got into the electric sharpener gimmicks. It's nice to hand sharpen again. Oh, my wife heard the last of you video and the comment about a life changing experience...she said you've been in the woods way too long! Bwahaha! Then she gave me that "wink" ;)
I thought i was good at filing till i watched your and billys videos . Thanks for the tips.
Yea buckin taught me how to file a wicked chain as well..even got my square filing on point ..now I'm hooked on square filed chain!!
I went to square and never looked back! Round is great but once I figured out the square it’s just as quick.
Hand filed square is tricker to learn but man does it cut gloriously.
Just came across this video, great information.
I've used chainsaws some over the years but have recently gotten into cutting a lot of wood.
I've been taking my chains to a local hardware store to have sharpened, it's on and off, the guy told me when I asked, do you check the rakers, he said nahhh, no need to.
The last two sharpenings seem pretty bad, the chain don't last long, I get some shavings and some sawdust.
The chains get hot quickly!
I think I'll try this myself, I sharpen most everything else so why not this.
Thanks for the video. You can teach an old dog new tricks 🤣
Buckin has for sure taught thousands of people to PROPERLY sharpen their chains. I thought I did a pretty good job. Self taught and 30 years of cutting firewood. After watching Buckin's videos I was like WOW really. Now my chains have never been sharper.
I'm a little late to your Chanel, but I'm loving the content! I have a suggestion for your winter cutting. My uncle used to customize chains for dirty hardwood., he would use his silvey grinder, take an old beat up chain, and change the top plate angle from the traditional 25-30° to somewhere between 15-20° with a touch lower on the rakers. This with a skip tooth chain would hit more like a chisel then a cutter, and the skip would give the momentum to pull through. It was an excellent chain fir hard wood, I even cut through a metal T post with a 346xp, full house 18" chain, that wad right behind my hing on a 22" eucalyptus blue gum that was planted on a fence line. That chain would hit rock and dirt in a flush cut and only dull 3 teeth. If you still have a grinder and some old chain, I suggest messing around with those degrees between milling chain, and the 30° popularized by logging semi soft wood, that is sold by oregon, stihl, and all the other popular brands.
I HAVE A BIG BELLY SO IM A GREAT CHAIN SHARPENER I GUESS ALL THOSE SUNDAY ROASTBEEF DINNERS HELPED ME OUT🤣🤣🤣👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽LOL ALL JOKES ASIDE GREAT VIDEO TINMAN GREAT WAY OF EXPLAINING THINGS TAKE CARE BUDDY
Yep my belly's my saw vice too 😂
Awesome man I was wondering when you were gonna put a video up bud!!! Very nice video tinman. I cannot wait for your high-speed internet. Love to see some tinman live. Cannot wait.
Good job. I like to mark the top of the first tooth I sharpen with a speck of paint or a sharpie so I know where I began.
Firewood is the bomb, sharpening a chainsaw is essential to this. This is a very good instructional vid. I have watched dozens of sharpening vids. You have covered everything here, I agree with the exercise thing for sure, I am 61 it is even more important now......thanks for this vid.
Is it me but I find great satisfaction in hand filing. My first attempts were a disaster !!! Like you after watching Buckin BR, my chainsaw now rips through logs like butter. Great video as usual . Wish I could give more than one👍
❤ couldn't agree with you more, handfiling is so therapeutic! Tinman is a real artificer!
Hi tinman. Nice wee add onto to the pick up truck also saw sounds awesome
A dull chain will heat up to the point of causing chain to stretch. That's why I always dress the chain when I re fuel.
I was instructed to generally sharpen the teeth in such a manner that 1/8 of the file stands proud of the top of the tooth when passing through the gullet. Definitely wait until the burr forms and disappears, as mentioned. Was also under the impression that lowering the rakers in a uniform manner as a set, rather than per tooth, was a good way to ensure a smooth-cutting chain. I believe the assumption is that any teeth that are too high (needed less filing initially) will be dulled early (yes there is some chatter) and will be addressed at the next sharpening, haha. So far so good, on my end. Also, the file has a twist built in, so I rotate the file every 10 swipes or so instead of twisting. They seem to wear more evenly.
Beautiful rendition. Turn the G into a C 💪🏻🪓🦾. Great work Tinman !!!!
Kindness and love
Looked just like BBR's vids. Nice job. I am now trying to hand file my own chains. Take Care, Stay Safe and Be Kind...
Another great video tinman. Good sharp chain extends the life of the powersaw👍🏼
Bless AWESOME 👏 video. Answered a lot of questions about guides or by hand. It’s by hand. Thanks 🙏
Can't argue with a chain cutting like that. Great job on the sharpening.
Those advanced cut Oregon chains are great for climbing saws. I swear by them. The husky progressive raker gauge gets them good
These are such informational videos that you have been putting out! I've learned so much about porting from you and The Ironhorse. In fact you two helped me port my first power saw with fantastic results. I always can't wait to see your new videos.
Thats awesome!! Sharing knowledge is what its all about!!
All I heard was “it helps to have a belly” and I instantly feel like I’m really good at sharpening now. Thanks for this video man, very helpful.
a sharp chain, saves gas, saves energy, saves time and makes work fun again. get that gullet.
i've just been watching "guilty of treeson's" guide too square filing well worth a look they compared round and square came out 45% faster with square!!! really buckin is great on his filing and correct but square filing is like warp speeding your cutting! with the right angles it can make a more durable tooth edge, i was shockingly impressed!
Yes, I watched their video a month or so ago. I could not believe the difference in a new chain vs hand filed round file, and hand filed square filed. Time in the cut went from almost :30 seconds to less than :15. Why all the porting, etc chasing seconds when filing made a bigger difference.
First Steve, then Buckin, and he inspired me to learn this. Been loving your channel, and if I ever send my saw out, it’s coming to you. This helped me on the rakers man, I appreciate it.
Since 1976 I've tried every gismo made. I also use only a file now.
Like you said, I've never seen a logger use nothing but a file.
That’s right!
When I get down to the witness marks that's when I goof around square filing
Thanx for the tips on pistons Tinman¡ Goin to try this on a couple XLs I have.
Great video Tinman. Please explain to me the importance of pulling the starter cord out before killing the engine, I’m trying to learn all I can and really appreciate you
You mentioned needing to wear cheaters- they can actually help when sharpening a chain so you can see burrs on the chain that you might not catch with the naked eye. Nothing wrong with a little bit of eye protection at the same time.
Thanks for this how to video and the encouragement to go out and make it happen.
Beautiful job on the file there Tinman. My filing is getting close. Still use one guide occasionally. Thanks for sharing
Great information-thank you. I agree-life is better after cutting wood. Interested in how you “hop up” your saws! When I was a kid-I had a Rupp Dart Kart w a Mac91B motor that I windowed the piston on. It ran like a bat outta hell. I would coast backwards down our driveway, and the burn rubber all the way up until my dad finally told me to knock that shit off. I run a Stihl 441 Mag clearing my land here in Arkinsaw-How do we hop it up ? 🤔
between you and Buckin I finally "sharpened" my chain. I used to go through the motion of filling, but what a difference getting the Gullet will do for you.
So...A deeper gullet will throw longer shaving/chip instead wasting energy on cutting it up again and throwing it.
Good video liked it a lot much better hat! Notice it looks like you use the same files as buckn his has the green ring at the end what brand are they? They seem to really take the metal off quick
Oregon files. That’s the only files that I’ve ever seen with the factory painted ends. It may just be a “Canadian” thing though. 😮
Love it tin man. I hit mine like that too. The wild thing I ported after ur steps cuts like maaaaaad
WHAT? You weren't born knowing how to port? I knew a guy that did a little porting on his way out! Lol Great video Tinman. Thank you, you're appreciated.
Great Video Tinman !! 😎
Even Ironhorse tells you watch Buckin to learn how to file good video Buckin taught us well he even had throw guides out 🤙👏👊
The truth!
Every one has to learn to do anything, practice makes perfect! Great info! Thanks for sharing buddy! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
I've spent a bunch of money to end up doing it the basic way.
@@ClintsHobbiesDIY haha, you ain’t by yourself!
I file the same way but I like to keep a file guide for the shop. After work I’ll sharpen all my chains free hand but then take a file guide and by tilting the guide back a little I can get a thinner edge on the top plate. It only takes a swipe or two after a full sharpen and it will be razor sharp. I kinda took that from guilty of treeson channel although he probably does it a little different.
I also use a sharpie to mark my start point, but soon i will have to have Chris sharpen the chains, because i know i wont be able to see the gullet in a few years. I was taught to put a sharpie coating into the gullet many years ago, to be able to see that i was getting the gullet and to check my angles, these are a few good tricks to help a person learn about sharpening a chain.
How it works is the dot on top identifies the start point, the coloring of the gullet area shows how you are sharpening, so if you miss an area of the gullet, you will see the remaining sharpie mark, and need to either continue to sharpen or change your angle!
Look at those chips! Thats a mighty good lookin chain.
Wise words. Thanks. i am 65 Still going in the shop.
I hand file this way, and every 2 or 3 I run the Stihl 2 in 1. It's a matter of efficiency, keeps me in the game all day long. The Stihl 2 in 1 is not just for beginners, but a little slower and hand filing gets the gullet and the underside of the top plate a little better, imho.
Hey Tinman, just came to your channel via Buckin Billy , I cut lots of firewood for myself and others and I agree , you need a sharp chain, cutting with a dull chain is hard on the saw and hard on yourself
Magnetic-Angle-File plate, has my saw chucking chips/string.... Very cheap/effective.
Morning sir, good sharpening tutorial here. A couple additional ideas. You were tapping the file - that's to clean it out folks. They load up quite quick and need to be cleaned. Speaking of files - they're relatively cheap - I buy them a box at a time and when they're even a wee bit dull they go away. Filing on the tailgate is about right for most people for height and ergonomics. If you take even a 2' long chunk of 6"x 6" or a tad bigger, cut a slot into it and drop the front of the bar in that slot while sharpening it'll squirm around less.
Anyways, just thoughts from a semi-old guy who's been cutting firewood for 40+ years. Stay well Tinman.
Ya anything you can do to get that saw more stable while learning will help immensely! I’ll also tighten the chain on the bar before starting. Quite tight. Stops that bit of wiggle the chain gets on the bar. Just remember to loosen it again afterwards. Good tip there RC
Hand sharpening is the “peaceful” part of running MY saws. It’s when I get to take a break and assess myself for: tired, thirsty, hungry, or anything else for that matter. Heck, it gives my brain a chance to think about other things besides that big “potentially” dangerous thing that I’m running.
Great video, learned a lot ! I also subscribe
Man your videos are so amazing and helpful thank you!
Hey there bud....do you know if Tony has a place to order those 90 degree heads that he sent you and Harvey? I want to order one of those...?
What brands of files do you recommend. I have used the oregon files from the big box stores and they dull rather quick and do not cut very fast. I get maybe three sharpening's out of them before they are toast.
I use to run Oregon and husky.. but switched to stihl files..and I like them much better
After getting a 61 white top with a 272xp cylinder and piston and carb, then learning hand filing from Buckin, cutting wood is fun again. Now after watching your videos I'm going to have a go at doing a conversion AND a port job myself. Thank you!
It is Billy Ray that gave me a way for success. I just uploaded two video's paying homage to Buckin one is Bucking Red Oak in NH. and the other is Falling a red Oak with Humboldt in NH. Its good to hear an other say it the way it is. Thanks
I count out of ocd and to have an idea of how much I had to work that tooth if one take 30 and one take 15 then on takes about 30 I check my riders and oiler just helps me catch things before it's to late and damage the bar or kills the chain
Also, buying a machine like a chain grinder has a negative effect on the environment (collectively, it adds up). Blunt files can be thrown in the scrap steel bin and be recycled with a bit of energy, which may have come from the sun, or wind, etc. Just another tick for hand filing.
Like u said I used to hate filing my chains but now I love it. I'm gonna go file my chains now might go get wood tomorrow 🪵🪵🪵🪵🪵🪓 Thanks to you and Buckin' Billy Ray for the inspiration 👍😀
I find the oregon files are a smoother cut the husqvarna intensive cuts are great files but are an aggressive cutting file and dont seem to last as long as the oregon files ill get about 10 sharpenings on the oregon file on a 24" bar and only about 6-8 on the husqvarna
Thanks for the video I as well am way better at hand filling thanks to buckin. It has made me enjoy running a saw much more. If you want to try another file brand I like save edge they are pretty sharp and quick cutting. And I also like pferd they have many different cutting files
Throw away those sharpening guides, now use this raker guide🤔
Nice wee video tinman
Love it ...Thank you and what brand files you using ???
THANK-YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR DEMOSTRATION SIR .
Billy Ray is the GOAT
Spot on!
Sharpening a chain is therapeutic .
I can’t do it this way. I have to turn the saw around to do the other teeth. I thought the rackers had to be a little bit lower than the teeth.
Great Video! Thanks to Buckin' and the Tinman!
Tinman how about a vid on grinding and what you use. Not an endorsement of grinder just a learning vid. Keep the vids coming. Be safe and be careful.
Could you do a video on the 200t how to fine tune a carburetor and what each setting do I’m having a hard time tuning my
He’s got a video on tuning carbs and it’s a good one. The cliff notes: raise idle with screw until chain is whirring along. Adjust L jet until it is at peak velocity then back out just a hair to slow it down. Turn your idle back down. Check for 1-pull restart and saw running well laying on its side. Now tune your H jet so it has a raspy 4-stroke note as it maxes RPM, but cleans up when you sink it into wood. Tune carb only when saw is warmed up. (On H&L jets? In is lean, out is rich)
I hand file as well.. make the chain pull into the log...
What chain company puts the witness mark on the chain.
I here your words Tinman. I don’t go to the gym for a workout I hit the wood pile!
Great video
I use a roller guide and seems to work
Sorry tin man... the stihl 2 in one sharpener is the best device I have ever used in 35 years in 4 strokes your chain rt before your eyes shapes into a brand new chain and files the rakers at the same time. You cannot tell the difference between a new chain and the one I filed, not to mention sharper than factory
HELP... I cannot find a 1/8 Round file at any hardware shore ( not in Lowes , not in Home Depot , not on Amazon ) for Mini chainsaw
Yup she cuts.oregon files from the big box stores don't last 3 files maybe great video
Oh yeah, I always mark wry chain where I start. 1 mark in each side I do.
Thanks Tinman! I'm still struggling with it !
Stay with it Kain👍it’s like learning how to play an instrument. Practice practice practice. What helped me the most other than this amazing community is this. Don’t let it get too far gone between sharpening’s. Touch it up after each tank or two. It’s far less daunting of a task and you’ll get more practice in a shorter span. Building up your muscle memory each time. Hope this helps🙂
@@shapeshifter7753 Thank buddy! Practice makes perfect....I still get a little confused on what file size to use also...is there a quick rule of thumb?
Kain Kustom Garage I don’t hear this mentioned ever but my experience is line up the bottom of your file to the second bend below your cutter. The top of your file should now be just above your cutting edge. That bend is also a guide😉keep filling following that bend in the side plate and you’ll always have the correct gullet profile😁 have a good look. She’s subtle but this helped me a lot! Mostly cause I deal with various brands and vintages of chain
@@shapeshifter7753 Cool! I'll try that!
Kain Kustom Garage god speed freind😎
Hello. Where can i buy a file like that with a green top? Thanks
It's am oregon file
Buckin changed the game once he start teaching people how to hand file it's way better then any guide tool. Plus is there really anything more relaxing then sitting down an filing
I just wanted to know, do you have any experience with a helicoil as a replacement for a stripped spark plug thread? I have killed mine because of stupidity and not paying attention. Maybe you can help me with that
What State are you in?
Good video mate the only file that does my head in is 4mm for my 200t so small and bendy lol good tips
Good video!
How to get a file that will cut the rakers . Mine just slides over
1st performance mod to a power saw, learn how to sharpen a chain properly ........ i also went up one size in file sizing it helped massively! .......
Ha! I clicked on this thinking it was a Buckin Billy Ray video.
There's only ONE way!
Hand filing. This is it.
I made a hand filing out of an old wood cable spool, an old 3.5" vise, and some old pieces of 2x4 and 2x12.
Now I can sit on my ass while I hand file in the shop. It's pretty friggin sweet.
Sittin on my ass, listenin to tunes, with a peench of snuff, and hand filing away. 👏🤣
Gamn sharpener works great fast and even
Clean your files with a wire brush or wire wheel on a bench grinder
Literally get 2x as many files cleaning the cutters out properly
Right on there. I use a file card. It’s sole purpose is to clean files
I can tell u rt now throw away your chain with the double rakers! For a guy that uses a saw alot, u would get way better performance
THAT IS WHY I TUNED INTO BUCKINS CHANNEL SO LONG AGO