Whirlpool Stuck Washer Plate Puller
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 พ.ย. 2024
- More information at wigglemylegs.com
This video shows a stuck Whirlpool wash plate being removed. I tried getting my allen wrenches with vice grips into the wash plate holes and pulling, gently tapping with hammer and small socket to break the rust bond, prying with mini pry tool and putty knife on other side. All failed. Then I made this puller. Hope you like it. The video is also on my Instagram @wigglemylegs.
I hope to add the remainder of the videos on this repair here and on my URL, as soon as I can get them edited. But this stuck wash plate is the difficult part of the repair.
Be sure to visit wigglemylegs.com and @wigglemylegs on Instagram.
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That's very creative. Thanks for sharing!
I had the same problem once and it took me a whole week trying different methods I saw in YT including this one to no avail. So I thought maybe I could try putting WD40 in the hole, I left if overnight. And to my surprise in the morning with one soft pull it easily got off.
Nice! I've theorized something similar as I'm 6 days into the struggle of trying to get this plate off. I definitely like your thinking!
Glad you like it Gary. Good fortune to you with your efforts.
@@christopherjaywolff6506 Welp, just tried and failed, instead of using Alan wrenches I used the right angle pick tools and just punched them through some thick strap and ran them over the top of a 2x4 with a scissors jack on top, and carefully jacked the strap up (trying not to lose an eye) but after a certain pressure one of the tools would pop out....back to the drawing board...
@@deathcar Darn!! If I remember correctly, this twist thing I tried helped keep my allen wrenches in the holes. I was thinking while trying it, that the allen wrenches were too far apart and might not be giving me enough upward force, but also noticed that once the cable started getting tight, and the twisting started getting lower and closer to the wash plate, there was virtually no chance of them coming out of the holes, unless something broke, or the vice grips let go. You can buy the plastic coated cable at your local hardware store by the foot. Got mine at ACE. Maybe pick up some vice grips too. Isn't it funny what humans do with their time and money? 😆 Also, it seems a pick tool might have a tapered tip coming to a point, so that isn't helping it stay in the hole I would guess. Kinda like using a 92 degree tool once you factor in the angle of the taper rather than a 90 degree allen without a taper. Good fortune to you again!!
I ended up doing something similar to your wire / plier Idea. I drilled a hole thru each blade 2" from center hub and laced the cable thru. it worked great and didn't use the vice grips (didn't have any)_
Way to go!! That's exactly the type of thing I was thinking I would have to do, when mine finally came off.
I had to brake mine and cut off the splines cuppler with a grinder
Bro you’re over engineering this😂
Hello. OK, FOllow the bouncing ball here, this is not that difficult. FIrt, remember the splines that connect the wash plate to the transmission are tapered! Prying up on ANY side of the plate only makes things worse since it pinches the splines together and all manner of yankiing on the edges simply tightens the two splines even more! Here is the best way that worked perectly for me: First, once you remove the center bolt, pour either heated white vinegar or a good spray of BLASTER around the bolt hole making certain it gets into the splie area. Let that soak in for at least an hour. Next, gently tap all around the center collar of the plate including tapping both sides of each impeller vane. NOT TOO HARD, just enough to break any corrosion between the two splie parts...make and female. Probably should NOT hit down onto where the bolt was...that will only further jam the splines together. Not doo. Now, take a GOOD pair of channel locks, tightly grip anywhere around the top edge of the bolt collar (the raised circle that surrounds the bolt), and yank up. Voila, it should come right out but make certain you pull it STRAIGHT UP and not torqued to one side of the other. All the other methods only worked againsT you. And when you are ready to replace the impeller or wash plate, make certain you take a good brass brush and clean out the splines as much as you can to remove any loose corrosion. Take a tooth brush soaked in blaster or WD40 to clean out the inside of the plate spines. Then, coat both splines with a good Anti Seize lubricant (Permatex is a good choice in the gray tube). Replace the wash plate or agitator and exercise up and down gently to evenly better distribute the lubricant. You are done. Relplace the bolt with the BLUE Lock Tite lubricant. Now if you need to remove it at a future date, repeating the above provess will allow the plate to be removed easily if even you need to do that. And no, the lube will not stain your clothes. It is fully encapsulated by the tight fit of the two splices. Enjoy.. Dr. Z (Lou)
Please forgive me, but this comment is fairly irrelevant. The bouncing ball was a gutter-ball so-to-speak, so no pins down. :) Also should mention this tourniquet method was used because all other methods employing Blaster spray for cold, and heat, and hammer tapping, and yanking had already been tried and completely failed. Many repair professionals who have come across this problem end up having to destroy the washplate. Also the washplate screw hole prevents getting WD-40 effectively into the splines. You'd have to fill the tub with WD-40 up to the top of the screw hole to soak the teeth. If you try to lift from next to the bolt hole as suggested with a single off-center channel lock contact point, the hand and arm variations in yanking movement from an off-center point, would be much sloppier than the tourniquet method I use with two contact points 180 degrees apart exerting even force on both sides without variance and without wobble. Plus, in the case of the machine in this video, it would not work. This comment seems more like one of my students trying to pass off an AI essay rather than learning something or maybe it's due to having too little experience. It is also possible this person's machine was only 6-12 months old and hadn't developed a rust weld for 12 years or more like us others that know better. God bless you all!!
@@christopherjaywolff6506 HI there. Thanks for the response, but all the other methods all end up with that male-female center spline "tower" being pinched. Not certain how this could help release the stuck splines. Another suggestion would be to not let the spline connections rust shut in the firt place. How, yo say? How about eveyy 6 months or so the owner remove the washplate or aritator, clean up both spline surfaces/ridges, apply new anit seize lubricant and reinstall! I think that would go a long way to prevent it from eing stuck permanently. I am a retired music educator but can think through most tasks given how uncompicated this particular one was. In the end, I guess "whattever works" is the operative term here. Dr. Z (Lou)
@@louiszagar1270 Thanks for getting me to revisit this. After freshly reviewing my video, I see I did not emphasize enough the prior attempts at removing this Wash Plate. After many side to side taps with a hammer, and pulling and yanking straight up by hand with the vice grip allen wrench combos, nothing worked. I sprayed WD-40 very liberally at the screw hole hoping it would find a way to the teeth. I lifted the edges of the plate and stuck screwdrivers, and mini-pry bar under the lip and tried to keep inserting thicker tools under the lip to lift it up. Absolutely failed. Then, as in past years of working on rusty parts, I decided to leave it overnight to let the WD-40 work. I sprayed it liberally again and left it a day. Returned the next day and again applied all the techniques mentioned above. Wouldn't budge. Got the spray can of Blaster and tried a bunch of that followed by the same lifting techniques. Wouldn't budge. Then I got my heat gun. Wouldn't budge. Then I tried switching much more quickly from Blaster cold to heat gun. Wouldn't budge. Then I spent hours on the Net and didn't find a solution other than cutting it out. So I figured as long as I'm going to destroy it, I'll use maximum force from this tourniquet method and possibly snap it in half or something. But as you see it finally came off. Really wasn't a pinching issue, just a rust weld. I was wrong not to have included this narrative in the original post. It is a disservice to say this Wash Plate removal is uncomplicated. It is very complicated to get enough force within the context of this repair. In my years of rust breaking only really old car parts have been similar to this, but those car parts can be addressed much more easily with WD-40, Blaster, and a torch, and tools. You're right about whatever works is good. While many don't have this much trouble with removal, my solution is for the people who need something above and beyond normal practices. Another exacerbating factor in creating this incredible rust weld is the tap hot water for this machine is set to 140 degrees and it has gotten heavy usage over many years. This method might also prevent the need for repair professionals to have to wait a day for WD-40 to soak. It is also a method that can be employed by men and women with less physical strength. So this tourniquet method isn't needed for many, but can be a relief to many as well.
Because of having to wait for parts to arrive, scheduling time, and laundry build-up, the decision for the original repair in the video here, was to not replace the Gear Case with motor shaft, and only replace the Basket Drive Gear and Wash Plate. It turns out in 2024 as we'd expect, that over the last two years, the old rusty teeth in the motor shaft had a tiny bit of play in them rather than tightly meshing with the new Basket Drive Gear and the new Wash Plate. This tiny inaudible play in the rusty teeth wobbled over two years undetected until the clicking noise started in about June-July 2024. The wobbly play was also starting to wreck the teeth of the new Basket Drive Gear and new Wash Plate that had been installed. It finally quit spinning when most of the rusty teeth sloughed off the motor shaft so it wasn't getting a grip. Therefore, this time, I replaced in August 2024, the Gear Case with new motor shaft and another new Basket Drive Gear and another new Wash Plate so all teeth are new and mesh tightly. Took videos and hope to post when there is time. And as you might expect, the Wash Plate was simple to remove after only two years on rusty teeth.
P.S. I noticed today the Wash Plate price was over $100 at the time of making the video, and now I see in September of 2024, they are $30-50. And if from repairclinic.com also come with a new screw with thread lock already applied.
i had to smash the thing apart then use a gear puller took over an hour
Genius
Thanks! The idea came to me from above. :)
Very Good!... #1 ✝ {11-21-2022}
Thanks. Glad you liked it.