Hello. OK, FOllow the bouncing ball here, this is not that difficult. FIrt, remember the splines that connect the wash plate to the transmission are tapered! Prying up on ANY side of the plate only makes things worse since it pinches the splines together and all manner of yankiing on the edges simply tightens the two splines even more! Here is the best way that worked perectly for me: First, once you remove the center bolt, pour either heated white vinegar or a good spray of BLASTER around the bolt hole making certain it gets into the splie area. Let that soak in for at least an hour. Next, gently tap all around the center collar of the plate including tapping both sides of each impeller vane. NOT TOO HARD, just enough to break any corrosion between the two splie parts...make and female. Probably should NOT hit down onto where the bolt was...that will only further jam the splines together. Not doo. Now, take a GOOD pair of channel locks, tightly grip anywhere around the top edge of the bolt collar (the raised circle that surrounds the bolt), and yank up. Voila, it should come right out but make certain you pull it STRAIGHT UP and not torqued to one side of the other. All the other methods only worked againsT you. And when you are ready to replace the impeller or wash plate, make certain you take a good brass brush and clean out the splines as much as you can to remove any loose corrosion. Take a tooth brush soaked in blaster or WD40 to clean out the inside of the plate spines. Then, coat both splines with a good Anti Seize lubricant (Permatex is a good choice in the gray tube). Replace the wash plate or agitator and exercise up and down gently to evenly better distribute the lubricant. You are done. Relplace the bolt with the BLUE Lock Tite lubricant. Now if you need to remove it at a future date, repeating the above provess will allow the plate to be removed easily if even you need to do that. And no, the lube will not stain your clothes. It is fully encapsulated by the tight fit of the two splices. Enjoy.. Dr. Z (Lou)
I appreciate your input. Now let me start by saying, I have experimented withall different methods. Even to the point of using a hole saw and using a puller. Now what you have said is particularly correct about the corrosion. I actually have more than one video dealing with different techniques. Airbags, BarKeepers Friend or CLR to break the corrosion bond between the two parts. I would be careful with vinegar as it could cause more rusting. Once the wash plate is seated, it will continue to rust. Once you are ready to install the new wash plate, I coat the inside of the wash plate with grease. That will stop any moisture from getting in between the splines. I definitely don’t recommend loc tite. I would recommend an anti seizing thread, not something to lock in even more. The fire/heat expands the metal. I actually have two different ones using fire. Fire is fast and easy. I do appreciate your input. Thanks for watching!
@@appliancerepairshorts Thanks for your reponse. I agree on the BLue LocTIte though. Maybe just a touch or so. Luckily, the bolt is quite long so I doubt it will be coming loose as long as you torque it properly....no need to use an impacft driver, just snyg it up and then no more than a quarter turn. Good to go. Lou
Here is one without damaging. I have dealt with all kinds. Believe me, not sure if you’re a tech or not, but they are not all the same. Some places have different water and customers use different types of detergents. You can’t sum them up as in your case.
So maybe THIS is the answer since I still can't get mine off. A new one is around thirty two dollars online, and I'd rather light it on fire (just to punish it)and melt it into hell than go through this continual hassle. I'm trying to install the metal machine drum to fix the wobbling from the plastic POS. Of note, the nut came off very easily and my Whirlpool WTW5000DW1 machine isn't so bad that I still can't use it. My thought before I burn it off is to continue to use it as normal on the hot wash cycle with a load of clothes. Maybe it will just release itself over time. I'm not in a hurry, but I am vindictive against machines that do not cooperate with me. I bought them. Therefore, they report to ME. 🎉
I’m actually uploading a video right now. I have another one that I’m doing the tub hub. I used the torch and sometimes you get lucky. I was able to save it. I’m uploading it later today. Make sure it is not your suspension rods.
@@appliancerepairshorts That's a great point which I had tested last week. I did test the suspension rods by giving the "quick push". They immediately bounced one time and stopped. It's very similar to a suspension on a vehicle, which is something i'm used to working on. If shocks on a car continue to bounce, they're bad. To double check,I went into Home Depot and looked at new machines and performed the same test.
You are a good technician!!
I appreciate your kind words
Hello. OK, FOllow the bouncing ball here, this is not that difficult. FIrt, remember the splines that connect the wash plate to the transmission are tapered! Prying up on ANY side of the plate only makes things worse since it pinches the splines together and all manner of yankiing on the edges simply tightens the two splines even more! Here is the best way that worked perectly for me: First, once you remove the center bolt, pour either heated white vinegar or a good spray of BLASTER around the bolt hole making certain it gets into the splie area. Let that soak in for at least an hour. Next, gently tap all around the center collar of the plate including tapping both sides of each impeller vane. NOT TOO HARD, just enough to break any corrosion between the two splie parts...make and female. Probably should NOT hit down onto where the bolt was...that will only further jam the splines together. Not doo. Now, take a GOOD pair of channel locks, tightly grip anywhere around the top edge of the bolt collar (the raised circle that surrounds the bolt), and yank up. Voila, it should come right out but make certain you pull it STRAIGHT UP and not torqued to one side of the other. All the other methods only worked againsT you. And when you are ready to replace the impeller or wash plate, make certain you take a good brass brush and clean out the splines as much as you can to remove any loose corrosion. Take a tooth brush soaked in blaster or WD40 to clean out the inside of the plate spines. Then, coat both splines with a good Anti Seize lubricant (Permatex is a good choice in the gray tube). Replace the wash plate or agitator and exercise up and down gently to evenly better distribute the lubricant. You are done. Relplace the bolt with the BLUE Lock Tite lubricant. Now if you need to remove it at a future date, repeating the above provess will allow the plate to be removed easily if even you need to do that. And no, the lube will not stain your clothes. It is fully encapsulated by the tight fit of the two splices. Enjoy.. Dr. Z (Lou)
I appreciate your input. Now let me start by saying, I have experimented withall different methods. Even to the point of using a hole saw and using a puller. Now what you have said is particularly correct about the corrosion. I actually have more than one video dealing with different techniques. Airbags, BarKeepers Friend or CLR to break the corrosion bond between the two parts. I would be careful with vinegar as it could cause more rusting. Once the wash plate is seated, it will continue to rust. Once you are ready to install the new wash plate, I coat the inside of the wash plate with grease. That will stop any moisture from getting in between the splines. I definitely don’t recommend loc tite. I would recommend an anti seizing thread, not something to lock in even more. The fire/heat expands the metal. I actually have two different ones using fire. Fire is fast and easy. I do appreciate your input. Thanks for watching!
@@appliancerepairshorts Thanks for your reponse. I agree on the BLue LocTIte though. Maybe just a touch or so. Luckily, the bolt is quite long so I doubt it will be coming loose as long as you torque it properly....no need to use an impacft driver, just snyg it up and then no more than a quarter turn. Good to go. Lou
Here is one without damaging. I have dealt with all kinds. Believe me, not sure if you’re a tech or not, but they are not all the same. Some places have different water and customers use different types of detergents. You can’t sum them up as in your case.
Whirlpool washer Wash Plate Removal | Fast Easy and Effective | Stuck Wash Plate
th-cam.com/video/OI5sZ7NZGug/w-d-xo.html
So maybe THIS is the answer since I still can't get mine off. A new one is around thirty two dollars online, and I'd rather light it on fire (just to punish it)and melt it into hell than go through this continual hassle. I'm trying to install the metal machine drum to fix the wobbling from the plastic POS.
Of note, the nut came off very easily and my Whirlpool WTW5000DW1 machine isn't so bad that I still can't use it. My thought before I burn it off is to continue to use it as normal on the hot wash cycle with a load of clothes. Maybe it will just release itself over time. I'm not in a hurry, but I am vindictive against machines that do not cooperate with me. I bought them. Therefore, they report to ME. 🎉
I’m actually uploading a video right now. I have another one that I’m doing the tub hub. I used the torch and sometimes you get lucky. I was able to save it. I’m uploading it later today. Make sure it is not your suspension rods.
@@appliancerepairshorts That's a great point which I had tested last week. I did test the suspension rods by giving the "quick push". They immediately bounced one time and stopped. It's very similar to a suspension on a vehicle, which is something i'm used to working on. If shocks on a car continue to bounce, they're bad. To double check,I went into Home Depot and looked at new machines and performed the same test.
@@texasaggieproud exactly!! Just like a car. I also tell customers to do that in Lowe’s or Depot