Great Video! I thought I was the only one.. I use a small round file with the point ground off and roll it to port it out- BAM- oil on the chain. Cooler, smoother, longer chain life.. Yet when I mentioned it to our Stihl dealer he looked shocked and started talking about designers with engineering degrees and voiding warranties on new saws. All I said was "wow- common sense ain't common I guess."
I have a Husqvarna 450 Rancher that has had an oiling problem from day one. Even when It was new the chain was always dry and I would having to stop cutting and pour oil on the chain. Ended up replacing the entire oil pump but that didn't help. After seeing this video I drilled the oil holes to about twice the diameter of the factory holes and this solved my oiling problem. Thanks for the video.
You reaffirmed what my mentor old time logger taught me. He always started the saw and checked on the end of a cut to make sure oil was slinging of the end of the bar. He also said to fill bar oil to max but fuel mix to 3/4 or less so I would run out of fuel but still have bar oil. Thank you sir. Be safe and be careful
Ironhorse, I fell timber for over 30 years most of which was on the west coast! I've ran a 36" bar a ton and this is what I learned. I started useing used engine oil for bar oil and my bar life was greatly extended. The myth is that engine oil is to thin. Its absolutely not true. I have tested in a big cut with many professional fallers who questioned me and after a cut my bar was cool to the touch whereas there bar would be fairly warm. The difference is bar oil is bio degradable and engine oil isn't. Put bar oil in your engine and see how fast it wipes out your bearings. Used engine oil has lubricating properties far superior to bar oil. Enouph so that I went from wearing out a bar every few months to useing a bar for well over a year. Have a great day sir and thank you for your vast knowledge that you share
I was thinking the same thing I said man these hole on the bar are too small . I said wow I'm glad veterans like you share your knowledge. now I know what needs to be done to my bar, it was leaking too much oil and not getting enough to my chain.
You're a boss Ironhorse...great tip that I will do on all my saws now. Thanks again for all your knowledge and also for answering the email I sent you right away. You're one of the few real guys out there. All the best and God bless
Spot on Harvey. I’m old west coast logger. Ran oilers wide open. Old guy showed me to drill bars out like that back in the 80s. Oil is cheaper than bars and chains totally agree. Solid sound advice brother. God Bless
Good one. I've been making paper bar plate gaskets to keep the leakage down and help hold the bar, and I like the results. I tried duct and electrical tape, but the adhesive turns to slime with the oil. Plain brown paper bags work well, but copier paper works well too, and you can use the plate to trace out the slot and holes with a pencil in a pinch or put the plate on the printer/copier and print onto heavy print paper or cardstock. Then stack or fold a few layers and cut out a bunch with an X-acto and gasket/leather punch set while watching videos. I keep a sandwich bag of them in my saw kit for each saw. I'm also careful to clean the bar and plates of all sawdust residue with paper towels and carb cleaner. The gaskets seem to help hold the bar from shifting up/down with less severe nut torque as well. I can't believe I never thought to open up the bar feed holes. Seems obvious once you know it, but it's not. Thanks! I have a new project on my list!
Thanks for the great tip Harvey. Maybe the bar makers leave the hole smaller so people that don’t know this trick will buy more bars as they wear out prematurely. You are looking good Harvey👍👍👍
Harvey, this video is perfect for me. I have an old 272xp that I thought had an oil pump problem. Figured out the Oil pump was just fine. I just wasn’t getting it to my bar like I knew it should be. This video here helped me out. Thank you
That's what I'm talking about, thank you so much for your time and like always your help. God bless you and your family and all your followers. With love Jay small
This is just what I was thinking needs to be done on my new Echo CS620PW 27" that I've installed a new Oregon 36" bar and Archer ripper for milling. Thanks for sharing the simplicity of it.
Great information Ironhorse! Some of your more expensive bars are opened up more! It does make a big difference! Keeping the area clean also with good oil! Thank you & God Bless your family! 🇺🇸🙏🇺🇸🙏🇺🇸🙏
Great info!! Thank you for sharing. I have see those pained bars with the hole very restricted with paint alone. Good idea before just tossing "new " bars on.
First off, I've learned a lot from you, and am grateful for your videos. As a bonus to your knowledge, your voice and demeanor are just relaxing in general and put me at ease. Now for the meat and taters- the newer style Oregon Power Match bar has been real grime collector in my experience. Brand new bar with a brand new chain, and it still fills the rail up with gunk incredibly quickly. Is this a fluke deal, or have others been experiencing the same thing? My Stihl bars don't seem to collect anywhere near the amount of gunk as the Oregon. Going to buy a Christmas tree bit right now to try and help this bar out a bit. Thanks again brother!
Great tips sir i been doin my bars had not thought of the bar plates until u demonstrated it!! I see new bar plates an permatex happen to my 3 main work saws 4sure!!! 066mag 395xp ms461!! Thank u sir.
Excellent advice 👍 I run Stihl 029 and one 250c they always oiled very well. I keep them surgically Clean and my chains are always wet. Thanks for doing this 👍🌲🔥
Thank you for for sharing your knowledge passed down from Mr Bob Johnson. It's a shame that so many people try to hide things from everyone else in order to keep a secret. I love you and people just like you. You're a truly wonderful person who makes my world better. THANKS AGAIN
Hey Man! I've been watchin for over a year. An I believe you have given me the itch. To tear into a chainsaw. An I have seen your Holzfforma video. So really! You have helped me decide. To get a Holzfforma G660 with a 28 inch bar. Because I think that is a weird size for a bar. Had a Stihl MS660 with a 32in bar a few years back. An I really liked it. But the price. Scary considering what we are goin through down in the States. Anyway! I figure I'll run it for awhile. An the next time I get a few bills ahead. Take what the Ironhorse has taught me. An show my Buddies what a ported saw is. I've lost all the wise ole guys I used to run with. Pulling logs with a horse. Off some pretty rough country. Just to get a couple hundred a peace. After loadin an haulin on an old wore out Chevy one ton an a trailer. Thats all we had. But I wouldnt trade those days for nothin in this world. An you remind me of a time long gone now. I love you man. Thank you!
Great tip Harv. I’ve drilled out a couple of oil holes but nothing that big. Now I know the trick, use a dremel to shape the hole instead of a drill bit making it perfectly round. You know something is wrong when your tuning your saw, running it high rpm which means it’s pumping oil and you find a lot of oil running out of the saw behind the bar cover. That oil should have been carried down the bar rail and slung off the end. I’ll have to re-examine the hole alignment, how well it seals to the bar, and size/shape of the oiling hole. Thanks Harvey.
Love it Harv. I am in the process if fitting a bar that's designed for an echo onto a husky. I'm gettin closer to it lining up with the use of a dremel. Thank you for sharing your tips. Love ya brother. 🌲❤🌲👊🪓
That was very valuable information Harvey !!! Thank you 😊 Oh by the way my blood sugar was 103 this morning 🌄 and no diabetic meds !!! Just diet!!! 😊😊😊😊🌎🌞👍👍👍👍👍
It's like you read my mind... Sunday afternoon I was testing a 371 for a buddy and found the bar wasnt getting oil. The brand new bar which I ordered in for him the oil passage was not connected at all to the groove of the bar. Good thing I found the problem before he put the saw in his new mill he ordered... I have a secomd new bar for the same guy that has a similar issue, they list the bar fits his saw but the oiler does not line up with anything on the bar. I have to mod it like you show. That's what happens with stuff like that where they list so many saws a bar fits.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, I hate a hot chain and bar, I will be modifying all my slow oiling kit..... not the Sachs Dolmars, they are fine but the Stihl I find are mean with the bar oil.
Thank you for this video you may have just solved my problem I'm going to drill that out and make it a little bigger replace plate Shield thank you sir. God bless
Another tip from an old hand, When placing a chain on a bar, use a pumper oil can to pre-oil the bar groove top, nose, and bottom with chain'n bar oil. Just like in your truck or car motor, the initial "dry start" will create fast wear. I see "experts" all the time on TH-cam putting new chain on new bars DRY and the reving it up, I guess they like filing the burr off the sides of the bar...
Thank you so much. You helped me big time. It seems like when you lift the tip of the bar before tightening the bar nuts on a chain adjustment or replacement, that a small bar oiler hole may not align perfectly with the oiler slot in the case. A bigger hole fixes this issue nicely. Cheers & Godspeed... 8^)
I've actually used RTV behind the plate you mentioned and on homeowner saws I have also made gaskets on the bar, used tape in layers to get the thickness I wanted and shape. Then put RTV down and used a card swiped over the tape to remove any extra RTV wait 5min remove tape and let it sit overnight. And bam oils flowing again. Bar must be cleaned before you do anything. But I'll definitely be opening up the holes from this point on. From Wisconsin Thanks for the Tip Iron Horse
Hary , im so happy you found out what has been making you feel like sh-t . Not to happy about the cure . Its not to bad as long as you get good fish ,, I have a fishmarkeet near me that sells fresh fish from the straits of mackinaw. Lake mi or Huron. The next time I m there I'll send you some frozen in dryice. All the good Stuff. Thanks for the video ol buddy
Not a problem I've personally had but I do see the issue and it makes good sense, if ur hole is relatively same as oil pump output...hey you got oil UNCLE HARVE ! LOVE YOU BUDDY, been cutting g down a big pecan snag out over my weld shop...been a lil harry but shes down and bucked shew..
Great tip.I been around long enough to know that one..cost of bars are threw the roof..as is bar oil..but it does really make stuff last longer..I fling lots myself..12$ a gallon gotta make a man puke. 👍👍
Great Video! I thought I was the only one.. I use a small round file with the point ground off and roll it to port it out- BAM- oil on the chain. Cooler, smoother, longer chain life.. Yet when I mentioned it to our Stihl dealer he looked shocked and started talking about designers with engineering degrees and voiding warranties on new saws. All I said was "wow- common sense ain't common I guess."
I have a Husqvarna 450 Rancher that has had an oiling problem from day one. Even when It was new the chain was always dry and I would having to stop cutting and pour oil on the chain. Ended up replacing the entire oil pump but that didn't help. After seeing this video I drilled the oil holes to about twice the diameter of the factory holes and this solved my oiling problem. Thanks for the video.
You reaffirmed what my mentor old time logger taught me. He always started the saw and checked on the end of a cut to make sure oil was slinging of the end of the bar. He also said to fill bar oil to max but fuel mix to 3/4 or less so I would run out of fuel but still have bar oil. Thank you sir. Be safe and be careful
Thumbs up. Its common since. Its like they manufacture the hole small so you buy more bars and chains.
Yet you cant spell SENSE correctly. Pathetic.
Ironhorse, I fell timber for over 30 years most of which was on the west coast! I've ran a 36" bar a ton and this is what I learned. I started useing used engine oil for bar oil and my bar life was greatly extended. The myth is that engine oil is to thin. Its absolutely not true. I have tested in a big cut with many professional fallers who questioned me and after a cut my bar was cool to the touch whereas there bar would be fairly warm. The difference is bar oil is bio degradable and engine oil isn't. Put bar oil in your engine and see how fast it wipes out your bearings. Used engine oil has lubricating properties far superior to bar oil. Enouph so that I went from wearing out a bar every few months to useing a bar for well over a year.
Have a great day sir and thank you for your vast knowledge that you share
I was looking at that, when I built my West Coast saw, I was thinking, jeez that hole sure is small. Great tip.......k
I was thinking the same thing I said man these hole on the bar are too small . I said wow I'm glad veterans like you share your knowledge. now I know what needs to be done to my bar, it was leaking too much oil and not getting enough to my chain.
You're a boss Ironhorse...great tip that I will do on all my saws now. Thanks again for all your knowledge and also for answering the email I sent you right away. You're one of the few real guys out there. All the best and God bless
Spot on Harvey. I’m old west coast logger. Ran oilers wide open. Old guy showed me to drill bars out like that back in the 80s. Oil is cheaper than bars and chains totally agree. Solid sound advice brother. God Bless
Thanks a bunch , this old dog learned something ,,,,today.
Good one.
I've been making paper bar plate gaskets to keep the leakage down and help hold the bar, and I like the results. I tried duct and electrical tape, but the adhesive turns to slime with the oil. Plain brown paper bags work well, but copier paper works well too, and you can use the plate to trace out the slot and holes with a pencil in a pinch or put the plate on the printer/copier and print onto heavy print paper or cardstock. Then stack or fold a few layers and cut out a bunch with an X-acto and gasket/leather punch set while watching videos. I keep a sandwich bag of them in my saw kit for each saw. I'm also careful to clean the bar and plates of all sawdust residue with paper towels and carb cleaner. The gaskets seem to help hold the bar from shifting up/down with less severe nut torque as well.
I can't believe I never thought to open up the bar feed holes. Seems obvious once you know it, but it's not. Thanks! I have a new project on my list!
Thanks for the great tip Harvey. Maybe the bar makers leave the hole smaller so people that don’t know this trick will buy more bars as they wear out prematurely. You are looking good Harvey👍👍👍
Spot on!
Thank you so much with this great information, I for one will be trying both of your suggestions as soon as I can. Cheers…
Dear Iron horse, love your videos. Looking forward to all your videos and the new future its going to be rough but you can do it I have faith in you!!
One o the most informative saw vids ive seen in a while . Thanks Mr Harvey . Dony boy great about actually sharing too
Thank you bunches! I always look forward to your videos!
been learning so much from watching you share your years of experience in these videos, absolutely amazing and humbling. thank you so much
Awesome Tip, thanks for taking the time to share the knowledge you have. It really helps.
Thanks Harvey, Appreciate passing on your wisdom.
So true Harvey! Great vid.
Harvey, this video is perfect for me. I have an old 272xp that I thought had an oil pump problem. Figured out the Oil pump was just fine. I just wasn’t getting it to my bar like I knew it should be. This video here helped me out. Thank you
I knew all this friend....but you do what l can't,explaine it...l belive you helped many today. Thanks Ironhorse!
Thanks for all the tips .Harvey.
Solid gold advice and demonstrations, thanks so much for your time and effort 👍👌👏
That's what I'm talking about, thank you so much for your time and like always your help.
God bless you and your family and all your followers. With love Jay small
This is just what I was thinking needs to be done on my new Echo CS620PW 27" that I've installed a new Oregon 36" bar and Archer ripper for milling. Thanks for sharing the simplicity of it.
Glad to see you out and about.
You’re a wealth of knowledge. Thanks for the advice.
Great information Ironhorse! Some of your more expensive bars are opened up more! It does make a big difference! Keeping the area clean also with good oil! Thank you & God Bless your family! 🇺🇸🙏🇺🇸🙏🇺🇸🙏
Great info!! Thank you for sharing. I have see those pained bars with the hole very restricted with paint alone. Good idea before just tossing "new " bars on.
Thank you sir for your time and advise. God bless.
First off, I've learned a lot from you, and am grateful for your videos. As a bonus to your knowledge, your voice and demeanor are just relaxing in general and put me at ease. Now for the meat and taters- the newer style Oregon Power Match bar has been real grime collector in my experience. Brand new bar with a brand new chain, and it still fills the rail up with gunk incredibly quickly. Is this a fluke deal, or have others been experiencing the same thing? My Stihl bars don't seem to collect anywhere near the amount of gunk as the Oregon. Going to buy a Christmas tree bit right now to try and help this bar out a bit. Thanks again brother!
Thanks for the tip Harvey, i'm definitely going to keep that in mind!
Excellent idea! When I am in hardwood milling the chain heats up quick. Thanks Iron Horse.
Hey Harv thanks for the vid. Very helpful info that will be used.
Great tips sir i been doin my bars had not thought of the bar plates until u demonstrated it!! I see new bar plates an permatex happen to my 3 main work saws 4sure!!! 066mag 395xp ms461!! Thank u sir.
Excellent advice 👍 I run Stihl 029 and one 250c they always oiled very well. I keep them surgically Clean and my chains are always wet. Thanks for doing this 👍🌲🔥
Thanks for all the great content!
Great video, Harvey. I've been doing the same thing for a couple years now. It really works wonders!
Thank you for sharing some of your knowledge, really appreciate your time, great job 👍
Thank you for for sharing your knowledge passed down from Mr Bob Johnson. It's a shame that so many people try to hide things from everyone else in order to keep a secret. I love you and people just like you. You're a truly wonderful person who makes my world better. THANKS AGAIN
Hey Man! I've been watchin for over a year. An I believe you have given me the itch. To tear into a chainsaw. An I have seen your Holzfforma video. So really! You have helped me decide. To get a Holzfforma G660 with a 28 inch bar. Because I think that is a weird size for a bar. Had a Stihl MS660 with a 32in bar a few years back. An I really liked it. But the price. Scary considering what we are goin through down in the States. Anyway! I figure I'll run it for awhile. An the next time I get a few bills ahead. Take what the Ironhorse has taught me. An show my Buddies what a ported saw is. I've lost all the wise ole guys I used to run with. Pulling logs with a horse. Off some pretty rough country. Just to get a couple hundred a peace. After loadin an haulin on an old wore out Chevy one ton an a trailer. Thats all we had. But I wouldnt trade those days for nothin in this world. An you remind me of a time long gone now. I love you man. Thank you!
Great tip. Thanks much. Will be doing that in the morning.
Great tip as always especially with sealing behind the plate
Great tip Harv. I’ve drilled out a couple of oil holes but nothing that big. Now I know the trick, use a dremel to shape the hole instead of a drill bit making it perfectly round. You know something is wrong when your tuning your saw, running it high rpm which means it’s pumping oil and you find a lot of oil running out of the saw behind the bar cover. That oil should have been carried down the bar rail and slung off the end. I’ll have to re-examine the hole alignment, how well it seals to the bar, and size/shape of the oiling hole.
Thanks Harvey.
Love it Harv. I am in the process if fitting a bar that's designed for an echo onto a husky. I'm gettin closer to it lining up with the use of a dremel. Thank you for sharing your tips. Love ya brother. 🌲❤🌲👊🪓
That was very valuable information
Harvey !!! Thank you 😊
Oh by the way my blood sugar was 103 this morning 🌄 and no diabetic meds !!! Just diet!!!
😊😊😊😊🌎🌞👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks, good advice! I have the same problem of not getting enough oil to the chain. Now I can fix it.
Good info, thanks Harvey. Hope you're going well.
Que grande!!!! Muy buena informacion!!!! Saludos desde Chubut, Patagonia Argentina!
Good information, I'll try opening the hole up for the next load of logs. Thanks
Thanks for sharing your tips very appreciated
Thanks for the great information, and videos, really appreciate
This makes perfect sense, thanks!
Great video thanks for posting.. I've been having problems with mine even after replacing the oil pump!
Absolutely fantastic idea always learning thank you very much
Modding some bars tomorrow
Wow, this is going to help me a lot! Thanks😁
It's like you read my mind... Sunday afternoon I was testing a 371 for a buddy and found the bar wasnt getting oil. The brand new bar which I ordered in for him the oil passage was not connected at all to the groove of the bar. Good thing I found the problem before he put the saw in his new mill he ordered... I have a secomd new bar for the same guy that has a similar issue, they list the bar fits his saw but the oiler does not line up with anything on the bar. I have to mod it like you show. That's what happens with stuff like that where they list so many saws a bar fits.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, I hate a hot chain and bar, I will be modifying all my slow oiling kit..... not the Sachs Dolmars, they are fine but the Stihl I find are mean with the bar oil.
Thanks, excellent video
Thank you for this video you may have just solved my problem I'm going to drill that out and make it a little bigger replace plate Shield thank you sir. God bless
Thank you. I was having problems with my 272 and now I have a solution.
Great educational video!!!
Thanks very much sir great videos
So crazy my father used to do this and I did it on my 461 works great 👍
Men i run saws now 30 + years, and my small one stihl is a 440...+064 and a 660 . fuc.. i leared a lesson. thx a lot. greetings from germany
Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom
Thank you! I noticed how small the hole was on my bar and you reaffirmed my thought on drilling it out.
great info, thanks for sharing :)
Thank you sir for the enlightenment
Amazing... Thank you so much
That's great to know and it does really work, thank you appreciate the tip.
Another tip from an old hand, When placing a chain on a bar, use a pumper oil can to pre-oil the bar groove top, nose, and bottom with chain'n bar oil. Just like in your truck or car motor, the initial "dry start" will create fast wear. I see "experts" all the time on TH-cam putting new chain on new bars DRY and the reving it up, I guess they like filing the burr off the sides of the bar...
I agree! Always pre oil a new bar!
Thank you so much. You helped me big time. It seems like when you lift the tip of the bar before tightening the bar nuts on a chain adjustment or replacement, that a small bar oiler hole may not align perfectly with the oiler slot in the case. A bigger hole fixes this issue nicely. Cheers & Godspeed... 8^)
Just want to let you know sir that I am a new subscriber to your channel and I really appreciate your time and your knowledge ..
Excellent tip.
Thanks great information 👍
Superb,,I'm a novice but love me saw this really helps
Mate love your videos
Thank you sir I learned a lot
Appreciate the knowledge you have shared my friend. Getting hard to find people that is willing to share what they know. Thank you sr. ❤️🌲🌲🌲❤️
Never thought of making the hole on the bar bigger. Thank you for this!
Screw them small holes. Really great video. :) thankyou IRONHORSE
Thank you Sir 👍
Thanks Harvey!!!!!!!!!!
I've actually used RTV behind the plate you mentioned and on homeowner saws I have also made gaskets on the bar, used tape in layers to get the thickness I wanted and shape. Then put RTV down and used a card swiped over the tape to remove any extra RTV wait 5min remove tape and let it sit overnight. And bam oils flowing again. Bar must be cleaned before you do anything. But I'll definitely be opening up the holes from this point on. From Wisconsin Thanks for the Tip Iron Horse
Hary , im so happy you found out what has been making you feel like sh-t . Not to happy about the cure . Its not to bad as long as you get good fish ,, I have a fishmarkeet near me that sells fresh fish from the straits of mackinaw. Lake mi or Huron. The next time I m there I'll send you some frozen in dryice. All the good Stuff. Thanks for the video ol buddy
Thank you very much. I'll try that. 🙂
Great tip, from Western Australia.
Excellent tip of the day.
Good tip! Thx
Thank you. Great tip. I'm enjoying an old 045AV thanks to you Harvey 😊👍
Not a problem I've personally had but I do see the issue and it makes good sense, if ur hole is relatively same as oil pump output...hey you got oil UNCLE HARVE ! LOVE YOU BUDDY, been cutting g down a big pecan snag out over my weld shop...been a lil harry but shes down and bucked shew..
Love your content
This was great info thankyou.
Your welcome!
Thank you!!!
Love watching ur video s
Thank you brother
Great tip.I been around long enough to know that one..cost of bars are threw the roof..as is bar oil..but it does really make stuff last longer..I fling lots myself..12$ a gallon gotta make a man puke. 👍👍
Nice one, short and sweet