Just to add my experience. 2013 Escape 1.6. My son was driving it home and the engine died. The instrument display said the transmission not in park. The lights would come on inside, but no dash lights. Miles showed up on display, but nothing else. Would not start. Had to use the override switch in the shift lever to put it into neutral and drug it home. Watched many videos. Checked: battery-it was ok, 1 year old Mega fuses- ok, ohm check and voltage checked. Even swapped 2 50A-all good. Major grounds-generally looked like crap (northern tier salted roads), but checked good otherwise. Cleaned and moved on. With no other major things or any available indications, I decided to check the start circuit, starting with the key circuit. Quickly found the Ignition Switch Fuse (F78 on BCM) was blown. Replaced it and car worked as advertised. Tried to drive it, and the fuse blew again. Began shooting wires after the fuse to find short. Checked to key and back. Looked for shorts to ground, none found. Shook harnesses and connectors, no shorts found. Began looking for other potential shorts associate with the floor shifter, instrument panel, pedals (for the heck of it.) To my surprise, found a Ford Remote Start System DNA-9 GEN-2 stuffed up under the driver’s side. Had bought the car used and was told there was no remote start. Was surprised because the wiring checked good following the diagrams for no remote start. Due to the shoddiness of the installation as well as manufacture dates on these remote start parts, this system was installed at least two years after the car was manufactured. Started researching my car problems with this Ford remote starter. Found a post for a 2015 Escape with the same problems. (His remote start stopped working and even the key wouldn’t work. Found F78 blown.) He disconnected the Ford DNA-9 GEN-2, replaced the fuse and it worked. He opened the box and found corrosion all over the board. I disconnected the remote start, replaced the fuse, everything worked fine. Did many laps around a local addition, no more problems. I opened the Ford DNA-2 GEN-2 and found a blown diode. Since this remote start box has been removed, I have had no further problems. Hope this helps if all the rest doesn’t.
Wow you had to go through a lot of stuff. Glad you were able to find out the problem. South Main Auto on TH-cam complains about after market remotes. He says they rip apart the steering column and you usually have a problem. Again glad you were able to fix the issue.
Just had exactly what he was dealing with, with my 3014 ford escape and it was 100% the fuse. Always start with this first before anything else if your car does this
Great learn for him. He researched. Wiggle test. Kudos. Amazon has some inexpensive Multimeters... be weary of the battery state of charge. 12.6 and up. 1st check.
Instead of just replacing more than one fuse like you did you could just use a multimeter and check to see if there is voltage drop across the fuse. Connect the black probe to ground and then with the ignition on, but the car not started, use the red probe and check the input voltage at the top of the fuse and you should see around 12V for it. Then check the output voltage at the bottom of the fuse and you should see around 12V too. What you would have saw when you got to the 50A mega fuse that was bad was 12V at the top and a much lower number at the bottom. Doing it this way you know the exact condition of each fuse and you just replace the bad one. Also, if someone just tests for continuity they will miss this issue. You have to check the input and output voltage to see the issue. Hope my comment helps someone!
Thank you for your helpful reply. I can’t believe how many people have watched this video with the same problem. And I don’t have a big channel like others do.
@@stayoutsideandexplore6280 no problem! You should send the stats to Ford and demand a recall. Some people have had this vehicle stall on the highway so if that happens it is a safety concern for sure. Not just for when it happens but who wants to be broken down on the road these days with all the distracted drivers texting, etc.? The risk of someone coming aboard you at speed is real!
I’m not an expert mechanic and I don’t play one on TV. However my wife’s suv has been running without a problem for over a year now. So I must of done something right.
I’m not an expert mechanic and I don’t play one on TV. However my wife’s suv has been running without a problem for over a year now. So I must of done something right.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Just to add my experience. 2013 Escape 1.6.
My son was driving it home and the engine died. The instrument display said the transmission not in park. The lights would come on inside, but no dash lights. Miles showed up on display, but nothing else. Would not start.
Had to use the override switch in the shift lever to put it into neutral and drug it home.
Watched many videos.
Checked:
battery-it was ok, 1 year old
Mega fuses- ok, ohm check and voltage checked. Even swapped 2 50A-all good.
Major grounds-generally looked like crap (northern tier salted roads), but checked good otherwise. Cleaned and moved on.
With no other major things or any available indications, I decided to check the start circuit, starting with the key circuit. Quickly found the Ignition Switch Fuse (F78 on BCM) was blown. Replaced it and car worked as advertised. Tried to drive it, and the fuse blew again.
Began shooting wires after the fuse to find short. Checked to key and back. Looked for shorts to ground, none found. Shook harnesses and connectors, no shorts found.
Began looking for other potential shorts associate with the floor shifter, instrument panel, pedals (for the heck of it.) To my surprise, found a Ford Remote Start System DNA-9 GEN-2 stuffed up under the driver’s side.
Had bought the car used and was told there was no remote start. Was surprised because the wiring checked good following the diagrams for no remote start.
Due to the shoddiness of the installation as well as manufacture dates on these remote start parts, this system was installed at least two years after the car was manufactured.
Started researching my car problems with this Ford remote starter. Found a post for a 2015 Escape with the same problems. (His remote start stopped working and even the key wouldn’t work. Found F78 blown.)
He disconnected the Ford DNA-9 GEN-2, replaced the fuse and it worked. He opened the box and found corrosion all over the board.
I disconnected the remote start, replaced the fuse, everything worked fine. Did many laps around a local addition, no more problems.
I opened the Ford DNA-2 GEN-2 and found a blown diode.
Since this remote start box has been removed, I have had no further problems.
Hope this helps if all the rest doesn’t.
Wow you had to go through a lot of stuff. Glad you were able to find out the problem. South Main Auto on TH-cam complains about after market remotes. He says they rip apart the steering column and you usually have a problem. Again glad you were able to fix the issue.
@@stayoutsideandexplore6280 I just hope that it can help someone chasing similar issues.
Thank you. Great help. Just fixed my daughter's 2015 Ford Escape with the same issue.
Just had exactly what he was dealing with, with my 3014 ford escape and it was 100% the fuse. Always start with this first before anything else if your car does this
Great learn for him. He researched. Wiggle test. Kudos. Amazon has some inexpensive Multimeters... be weary of the battery state of charge. 12.6 and up. 1st check.
Instead of just replacing more than one fuse like you did you could just use a multimeter and check to see if there is voltage drop across the fuse. Connect the black probe to ground and then with the ignition on, but the car not started, use the red probe and check the input voltage at the top of the fuse and you should see around 12V for it. Then check the output voltage at the bottom of the fuse and you should see around 12V too. What you would have saw when you got to the 50A mega fuse that was bad was 12V at the top and a much lower number at the bottom. Doing it this way you know the exact condition of each fuse and you just replace the bad one. Also, if someone just tests for continuity they will miss this issue. You have to check the input and output voltage to see the issue. Hope my comment helps someone!
Thank you for your helpful reply. I can’t believe how many people have watched this video with the same problem. And I don’t have a big channel like others do.
@@stayoutsideandexplore6280 no problem! You should send the stats to Ford and demand a recall. Some people have had this vehicle stall on the highway so if that happens it is a safety concern for sure. Not just for when it happens but who wants to be broken down on the road these days with all the distracted drivers texting, etc.? The risk of someone coming aboard you at speed is real!
😊 thank you
Great video.. thanks for the advice. What brand fuse did u end up grabbing? Been looking on Amazon but cannot find 50 amp mega fuse
AMI-MIDI Fuse on amazon.
omg im going to check maga 9 i never even knew that diagrahm existed im going to kick myself since i already bought another BCM , if it works
That's not a schematic! You don' t understand how cars work, no point in making a video!
I’m not an expert mechanic and I don’t play one on TV. However my wife’s suv has been running without a problem for over a year now. So I must of done something right.
I’m not an expert mechanic and I don’t play one on TV. However my wife’s suv has been running without a problem for over a year now. So I must of done something right.
This helped me absolutely none lol lots of talking but no help