BUILDING THE ULTIMATE 4X4 REAR END FOR MY BARRA SWAPPED LANDCRUISER - Barra T FJ 45/ 80 series Ep#17
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2024
- Build episode #17 for my XR6 Turbo Barra powered FJ 45 / 80 Series Toyota Landcruiser. In this video:
- I finish up the rear end of the tray
- I Design and Build a waterproof overextension draw
More frequent updates on Instagram: @swindelhurst
Build Sponsors: barratheworld.com/
Music:
1.
Track: JNATHYN - Dioma [NCS Release]
Music provided by NoCopyrightSounds.
Watch: • JNATHYN - Dioma [NCS R...
Free Download / Stream: ncs.io/Dioma
2.
Cyberpunk Dynamic Sport by Infraction [No Copyright Music] / Almost Evil - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
You deserve more subscribers. This is some proper content on TH-cam. And is clear your putting in more effort than others. Love the work man
Thanks Bjay, I'm in my own lane building my dream car in my shed and bringing you along for the ride so I'm glad you enjoy it!
I look forward to each video, I think you've used your space well and I wouldn't have done it differently
Love that you're an engineer and showing how well you can design something and build it yourself and really enjoy it. Quality content bro🙌🏼👌🏼
Thanks mate, loving every second of it!
This channel get more legit by the day. Nice rebrand
Good work
You talented enough to know what you’re doing
Hahah not sure about that
So keen for every video, great channel. Awesome work
Cheers Nathan :)
Love the videos mate. Good music, good editing and cracking informative content. Your approach to your work and design is a pleasure to watch
Cheers Angus, glad you are enjoying them!
@@DesignedandBuilt you could definitely make a go at full time you tuber with your skills. Keep it up
Watching you makes me feel dumb 🤣 Your always thinking 10 steps ahead. Can't wait for the next episode. Great work.
Haha I have been thinking about it for a few weeks by the time the episode comes out, cheers Sammy.
Fantastic work mate! Love your attention to detail, look forward to see it finished. keep up the great work!
Every addition to the build is quality in design and application. Looking forward to more
Cheers David!
Draw has come up mint, I think you've killed the hole build so far mate, inspiring and educating viewers at the same time. When this build is finished I hope you show us what it can do, Rock crawling, Mud slinging and a couple tar pulls!. Great job!.🇦🇺
Thanks Sean, appreciate the kind words :) haha we'll get some videos of it out on the tracks, maybe not everytime I take it out but I promise I'll get some!
Great name for the channel
Used to build waterproof boxes, you did a great job. I'd also build an aluminum heat shield down the side of your drawer. I'd make it like a 3 sided box, top, side and bottom.
Thanks mate, I like that heat shield Idea, would be good next to the water tank/fuel tank as well!
I dunno about the drawer needing a heat shield. Looks like 50mm space easy. Then you have 40mm between the box and the drawer. I'd bet your time could be better spent somewhere else.
MudRaider, it's better to over engineer something than to find out you could have done it sooner. The exhaust only has to catch in a reversing situation when he's doing hill climbs out in the mud, and then it's a cheap form of insurance.
Great idea and design , ticks all the boxes
Thanks Ad man!
Looking great! Just a thought with the in fill panel if you put the number plate on you will need a number plate light that will stick out a bit. Would it look a bit better to box it back in a bit with a similar angle in to the corner of the tray and headboard angle?
Hey Allen, yeah reflecting on it that could be the go. I might just whack a number plate on and see how it looks now that I’ve built it, if it’s average I’ll do what you are suggesting!
Nice work. I like the hoops under the tail lights and the dog flap ;)
Thanks Rhys!
Love the rebrand 👌🔥
I have those tail light I really like them very bright and cool indication pattan
Can't wait to get them wired up and see for myself!
Great name for the rebrand of the channel. That rear draw is awesome, having it weather proof will be well worth the effort. Keep up the great work and awesome content coming mate 🤙🏻
Thank you Geoff, hoping its submersible for deep crossings but maybe thats wishful thinking ha
That's one tidy draw Rich, well done mate 🙌
Cheers Aaron! :)
Awesome work
Thank you!
Really enjoying your build, and build commentary, well dome so far mate, regards,from Cape Town, South Africa.
Cheers Russell!
Love the tray mate one question though
Nember plate light ?? On the flap ??
You could always bring a rhs section for the I fill with a bit of space for the drawer to slide out whilst still missing the drawer. If you make the water tank depending on size I recommend using some baffles in the tank
Cheers Sean, yep I was thinking on the the flap, if it doesn't work for whatever reason I think I'll do something similar to your idea! I think I'll get a poly one made up for me and get some baffles like you suggested!
Awesome work and great video ! Just subscribed keen to keep watching 👌
Thank you!
awesome work mate! been following the build. wish i knew how to use cad! would help so much with my future build!
No better time to learn than now! Will help with your future build :)
You're building something you can be proud of and you'll be able to look back on the clips when you're old and grey! Have you thought about adding a number plate light and light for your draw so you can see whats in it at night?
Thanks mate! Yep thought about number plate lights on the flap. Hadn’t thought of draw lights though, that’s a cool idea!!!
Heck, with all the TIG work your doing, and since there's room, build an indented box into the folding plate. Have enough room for the light and the plate, I can't imagine it needing to be much more than 40mm to fit the light.
Great idea! Would look pretty cool I reckon.
The draw not being in middle of tray is messing with my ocd
100 percent, me too!
Epic!
Haha thank you 🙌🏽
Idea that i would consider:
Dont have a cowling at all, then once the draw is pulled out a sealed rigid lid folds sideways (could double as table). This would be alot lighter and also not have any of the wasted space as mentioned. Downsides could be stopping draw slides from getting muddy (maybe build custom slide with sealed roller bearings?)
Thanks Murray, definitely considered that first up as it has the benefits you mentioned! I think stopping dirt/sand getting into the sliders is a pretty hard problem to solve, would love to see it done though!
عمل راقي جدا
For my circumstances I would have incorporated a towbar, as much as they compromise departure angle they can look good and act as a rear slider, also allowing the draw to come out further to be slightly longer. But that draw looks awesom what an effort
Yeah cheers Daniel, I'm hoping to have a removable towbar on it, I don't think it'll get much use but would be good once in a while!
You've probably already thought of it but when you remake the draw front to suit the rubber seal will you still have the clearance from the tray? Awesome work as always 👍
Cheers Joseph! Yeah it’s going to be super tight but should be right!
mate sorry I'm a late watch on this one. Hyped on the new name change its ootg! Loving how informative an well edited each ep is keep top the content and quality!
Thanks mate
Great job Richard BUT if you're going to enlarge the face plate on the draw will it now hit the tray frame because it's now bigger !!! What about just flat stick on rubber on the inside draw face to mate up with the surface the original seal was going to go on as a draw seal. Love the new channel name as well mate. Seeya Rob
Cheers Rob, I reckon it will clear with the bigger face!
I like the way you make your parts rather then buy and bolt on !
Cheers Russ, I really thoroughly enjoy making stuff :)
Hence the design and built title I guess
Off topic question Richard, but is the experience you are gaining designing and building your own designs helping you do your week day job? Most professional engineers are on the tools as much as you are, and that experience I would think would seriously assist you in your professional career.
Hey Rod, I think it definitely helps me be a better engineer on a day to day. If nothing else I have a better understanding of every part of the car because I've touched them all and put them together!
Nothing more important than departure angle
Thanks Tom, OOTG.
great job mate. are you able to drop a link to those cad files for the slides and while tail lock ect. cheers
Is that the plazaman employee from tiktok? Lol you've got one of the best welders helping you out, I thought this was supposed to be stressful and backyardy
Ha nah it’s not. Sorry who I are you talking about?
Looks sick. Is there a reason you didn’t make the drawer wider to fill in the gap between the taillights
The exhaust!
I would suggest bracing your coils before putting ur water tank on top
Not planning on it mate! 80 Series are pretty good in comparison to patrol
Coming long we’ll !
I am about to pick up my 40 and she runs and drives, just aesthetically look untidy without bar work. I am looking into fabricating a bar but am torn, so I replicate the ARB style high centre hoop and a complete no hoop tube bar?
Which way are you heading on yours ?
Hey Patrick, I’m going for a very minimalistic bar through LCS 4x4, because I have so much tube work up the front It won’t have the hoops!
Might have out the pinch weld join at the top, rather than bottom. Slightly less chance of water ingress.
Might look shitter though as you’d see it. Nice work mate
Yeah thats the ticket, Almost an extra 300mm of water wading before unbroken seal. Like that idea. Will be implementing it.
if you make the drawer faceplate bigger to accommodate the seals, will it fit under the tray?
It should be, it'll be on the tight side thats for sure!
The further you mount you number plate under the tray the less fines you incur,
PoPo can’t determine depth of your number plate driving directly behind you.
Ha very true!!!
Hey mate love you content it’s grouse, love what you do, also where can I get one of those stencils for the plasma cutter ? Is that something you designed and got laser cut yourself ?
Hey mate, yeah I just got it lasered. DM me if you want one!!
Are you going to brace the coil towers to handle all the weight?
Wasn't planning on it at the stage, had any experience with it?
Nice progress mate. You might have a issue with number plate light sticking out on that back fascia?
Hi Royden, cheers, yeah I haven't gotten that far yet but hopefully I'll be able to figure something out.
Do an old school frenched number plate with pencil led light
Hey mate I’m a boilermaker and trying to get more into the design side of things, just wondering what software you use? And also what did it cost to get the draw laser cut and folded? I’m building a new tray for my Ute and half thinking by the time I get parts laser cut and folded I’m going to be better off just getting someone else to build the draw and boxes for me. Thanks mate, love the content!
I use Solidworks, Around $400 in cutting and folding. The cheapest sealed draws I have seen are around the $1200 mark but just weren’t the right dimensions for me. Any excuse to get on the TIG!
what was the steal size for the tailing protecters
75mmX25mmX2 or 3mm
are you putting a canopy on it
Yep! We'll get around to building one eventually.
Why didn't you angle the front of the draw with little vertical top section (100mm) for number plate. This would give bigger draw and still have same departure angle
Hey Oliver, love the idea, did think about something similar but I thought the seal would be hard to make, kept it simple for the first go! Maybe next time!!
Didn't warp that rear beam welding the hinge recesses in? I cringed when I watched it as I caused a pain in the arse doing the same thing adding in some recessed nuts when I built mine but it was in a lighter RHS section. The rear looks mint now with that infill.
It's already kind of warped from when I was welding my tray, planning on Straigtening it out when I weld down my checker-plate ! I don't think the recesses did it any harm.
Good vid again Richard. I was wondering , if you widen your draw face by the few millimetres as you said, will you still clear the rear rail of the tray ?
I think so! Unconfirmed, I can probably drop the mounts by a few mm to compensate if it's an issue.
You could of put the seal on the inside of the rear draw door
That’s a good idea! I think would still need a sealing surface like I have!
This is fucking sick
Only one thing is the draw shits me because it’s off centre, other than that
Can ya build my tray 😂
Haha I know right, annoys me as well but once its black you won't be able to tell!
Obviously, your build, your choice, but here's my $0.02 worth.
I also have an 80 chassis based ute. I went away from a mounted water tank, it didn't get used enough to justify the space it took up, I now run with plastic gerry can style water on the tray, when needed. In the space above the rear diff, I now run three N70 size batteries, two paralleled for the winches and a single start/run battery. Both to shift their weight down and to get weight off the front axle.
Speaking of axles, the Nissan rear(assumingH230, not the mega weight, H260), is only an upgrade, if you're going to run an LSD, honestly, Toyota never masterminded the LSD, if you're going a locker, the 80 is the better axle setup, with a couple of mods.
Front, 80 bearings and brakes are far superior to Nissan. Four pot, vs two pot brakes and take a look at the bearing spread, between 80 and Nissan.
If you're going to run a front locker, there's a guy in Melbourne, who builds front diffs, to suit, the much stronger Nissan centre and uses 80 axle tubes/CV's/brakes etc. The TJM locker to suit the bigger Nissan centre, will accept the side gears out of the Toyota TJM locker, allowing you to use stock 80 axles. Without his permission, I won't mention his name publicly, but reply and I'll get you his details, via Facebook or similar.
Also, if you've already bought you T/Case adapter, a Nissan centre pumpkin rear diff, won't work with an offset rear 80 T/Case. Strength wise, plenty of people, running big power through both the Nissan and the 80, without issues, that said, Nissan GQ/GU cases are generally cheaper, but 80 allows for low range, two wheel drive, awesome if you need to reverse boats, caravans etc.
Really enjoying your build, except that it makes me want to change some stuff, I previously, thought I was happy with.
Hey Aaron, appreciate the detailed comment. I plan on running one in the bay and then a LiPo in the cab.
Planning on running a H260 rear and lockers. I have actually seen something similar and think I know who you're talking about, pretty cool stuff really I would be worried about spare parts if something went wrong. I like the idea of all nissan or all toyota. I have seen an 80 series transfer with GU diffs, trying to make the GU transfer work, I like the fact that it is manual as I have heard of the 80 series motors breaking. Also you can get reduction gears for them at some extra cost. Big pro for me is also GVM upgrade which is part of a long term plan for the car. I'm working through all the issues now and not even sure I can make it work due to tailshaft length/angle so watch this space!
@@DesignedandBuilt
Cheers for the reply..... but now you've got me thinking....
There is full manual, part time 4WD 80 T/Cases around, but they are rare(ish).
If you're going for a GVM upgrade, I assume you're going to use the leaf spring, full floating axle H260. How are you going to deal with the 100(and something)mm less width?? Correcting the width, with billet hubs, spacers, puts the WMS outside the outer bearing race. I'd be interested to learn, if that's actually a problem, from an engineering perspective.
If you're talking about the coil H260, I was pretty sure they very similar(+/-80kgs) load rating to the 80 rear axle.
If you're going to get axle brackets, cut and bent, to suit the Nissan rear into the 80, there would be a small market for them, including me. Similar small market, for axle width correcting billet hubs, if doable, for the GU leaf spring crowd, to correct front to rear track width.
Looking forward to seeing which way you go.
@@aaronnoyb as you seem pretty clued up on the issue mate and I am struggling to get information anywhere, I thought that the load ratings for the axles are:
H260 Coil. 2270 kg
H260 Leaf. 2650 kg
H233 Rear 1800 kg
80 series rear 1800 kg
I am struggling to find the correct information though. I am planning on using a H260 coil rear and making brackets to suit the 80 series.
@@DesignedandBuilt
I can't find my factory manual for the 80, but I'm pretty sure rear axle capacity was 2300kg in Australia, for full floating rears. The US 80's were 3970lbs/1800kgs for semi floating rears.
Pretty sure the 75/79 series utes, list the rear axle capacity at 2300kgs, leaf springs, but using the same bearings(and hubs on the 75) as the 80 setup.
I don't want to discourage you from the H260 coil idea, as I'd be very keen on buying a set(or 2) of brackets, if you can make it work.
Looking forward, to seeing which way you go.
Not to worry I’ve gone ahead and done it anyway. The compliance place I have seen with my own eyes has the 80 axle at 1800kgs, h260 rear 2300kg. I guess compliance plates can change over the years and for models and variants. Cheers, hopefully I’ll upload the video this week!
Honestly I've forgotten what channell used to be called lol
Just my name mate, nothing important!
that draw not being center is a bit ocd
Haha I know mate, does my head in as well!
Would you like to share your cad drawing happy to pay you for them
Hey Mate, DM me on instagram.
@@DesignedandBuilt will do
Looks like a fun project can't watch it with the drama music...
It is a fun project! Personal preference when it comes to music and can't please everyone unfortunately :(
Dimensions please Bro mm?
Dimensions for the draw?
Yes please and whaddaya recon the tray will weigh finished?? Great content keep it up !!