This video series has definitely come in handy a few times. However with your new an improved filming / editing skills I was curious if you would be interested in remaking this series or similarly a video on how to choose a carb for your application, and how you go about tunning it. I seem to always struggle with this and more than once with a scooter build have ended up buying multiple carbs until finding a good match.
helped a lot man... i have a first gen jog and i bought a 3kj carburetor for it but since the holes for the vacuum line and others are different then on the previous one i wasn't sure where to connect them.
Awesome video! this cleared up so much with a mystery carb i got... I dont want to replace because it's in almost new condition but i was able to track it down to a Lumix GC 90cc.. for a 2 stroke, granted i'm completely new to 2 stroke motors, i've been able to piece through the majority but i've been hesitant to run it only because it oddly has 2 oil inlets, one hose is 1/8" that seemingly goes to the oil pump, but then another brass one with a nipple/barb next to where you have your oil inlet on the carb (the carb with the brass elbow with no barb/nipple). Thanks to you i figured out that the fuel inlet is the cast inlet at the top (weird to see a fuel line with a cast inlet)... but i'm not sure about the two oil inlets. Its on a 90cc dinli, and i have an oil resevoir that connects directly to the cylinder behind the crankcase, the small 1/8 hose that comes from the pump to the carb... and that still leaves the one oil inlet open on the carb with nowhere to connect... some people said just to create a closed loop on the oil pump/cylinder connect so that it basically just cycles within that loop, and just cap off both ends on the carb (essentially i just connected a hose from the 1/8 inlet to the larger one (both on carb). here's a pic of the carb i'm talking about... Any idea as to whether it's ok to create a closed loop and/or cap the two oil inlets on the carb and just premix? or if i were to keep the oil pump connected, would i just cap the larger of the two oil inlets? thanks so much for your videos and in advance for any and all help! :) cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/atvconnection.com-vbulletin/614x450/lumixgcdinli_5e441bc4b1d1bb24065afdaac309cafc47c3db89.jpg
@@49ccscoot my 150 scooter has carb issues no matter what I do change main jet, needle position, fuel air screw etc I've been working on these for 10 years. So I ordered a kit. If the needle and seat are bad that will do it. The diagram has gas on it it's supposed to be dry.
I'm not sure what it has stock, but it may be marked on the jet. If not, a service manual may tell you. I'd get an assortment of jets so it can be dialed in better anyway.
Thanks for this vid, I have a Chinese 2 stroke scoot with I think the 14mm Mikuni(copy) carburettor and I’m having persistent flooding issues, I’ve taken the carb off over a half dozen times, cleaned it using carb clean spray, adjusted the float height, it works for a while but after a week or two the coughing and spluttering and not wanting to Rev comes back, I bought a new carb for it, and it will not even run on that, I’m at a loss as to what it may be, it either floods or starves.
@@49ccscoot The only things I’ve checked is the float height, I don’t know if one of the previous owners messed with it trying to get more power out of it and completely upset the setup. Do these have a clip setting on the Throttle needle? I haven’t checked that. The plug is white but then drips of fuel come out the overflow pipe on the carb. It’s happy to rev up to a half throttle, beyond that it loses power and sounds like the choke is on or something.
@@willswheels283 Unless it's one of those nifty EPA approved deals, it should have an adjustable needle. Being good up to, but not beyond, half throttle makes me think main jet.
Great video as usual,,,,I have both 50 and 150cc 4 strokes,,,,I just picked up a prescott 50i and the carb is shot, however I noticed that this carb has no vaccum line to it, just fuel in and out from petcock and vaccum to intake manifold, when I get the new carb do I just plug up any vaccum ports on carb or does this scooter require a special carb? Also, I usually get the $28 carbs from amazon both 18 and 24mm and have no issues with them at all, can you recommend a resonable priced carb that you think would out perform these carbs that would work on those bikes? Flat slide perhaps! Id hate to replace the throttle cable but I would do it,,,,TY for all your hard work.
You shouldn't need a special carb. Make your connection to the petcock and any other vacuum accessories and plug leftover ports. If the current carbs work, stick with 'em. I've never used a flat slide on these, but PWK is the popular choice. Often said to be harder to tune and doesn't stay in tune as well as a CV carb. The main advantage that I hear regularly is improved throttle response.
Great videos.i have a 2001 polaris scrambler 90 I have been working on for my kids the plug cap pops off on its own ordered a ngk like you suggested.but I have trouble getting fuel to the carb cleaned the petcock out and tank installed new gas lines and had to put the old ones back on.with a fuel filter on after the bowl is empty it will not refill.i took the carb apart and cleaned it.i do not want to tune anything until I get the plug cap which should be tomorrow.i did not use tygon fuel line.
Not sure if the tygon will make much difference there. Check your float height just to be sure it's not the issue. I don't think any of my carbs have had rubber to seal the needle... or do you mean the float needle? Float needle should either be rubber coated on the tip or have a rubber seal to interact with. If that was not sealing though, you'd get more fuel than you want and it would overflow not be low on fuel.
Very clear and concise video.I have a Kawasaki weed eater. The carb has no mixture adjustment. The problem I have is that for the engine to idle I have to set the throttle cable so the slide is way above the idle setting screw. Can you help me on this? Sorry that my carb is not the same as on your excellent video
ron martin Mhg I've only worked on my own weedwackers, which always had an idle speed screw. I'd start by trying to find an owner's or service manual to see if there is anything in there about it.
***** Thanks for the quick response. Mine has an idle screw . but it is doing nothing as the slide is way above it. I'll try to get a manual as you suggest.
There's plenty of videos for what you need I asked a 4 stroke question about a carb issue I forget he deals with 2- smokes. Like everything else I will figure it out. 😃😁
Thanks for the help,I have removed the cap have even blown in to the tank.the problem I believe is from the petcock to the top of the carb which is on the opposite side it drops about 1 inch.would the tygon line help,seeing it looks more flexible.the needle has no rubber top could some one have messed with the carb before I got it.
Hello, what could cause exhaust smoke coming out of carburator? Also the revs would go up hard/hesitating, it'll work if I set the mixture screw at 3 turns, and at full throttle the revs would go up and down, it'll lose power then gain it again.
There is no carburetor setting that will make smoke come out of the carburetor. An abundance of fuel may be part of the cause if it's actually fuel vapor/mist.
What a great series of videos. Very well explained with patience and detail. I will soon be going to Hawaii to visit my son and while I am there we have planned to install a big bore (70cc) for his GTX Turbocam (Chinese Jog variant). I think we just want to stick with the stock carb, what jets should we use? I would rather err on the side of rich than lean. Thanks again!!
Thank you. I would advise getting a jet kit for the carburetor and tuning it. I've never found that one jet size fits all. You can get a jet kit (part 114-50) from here for about $15 : www.partsforscooters.com/?partner=49CCSCOOT or buy them individually and you can find them as Mikuni VM11/22 from places like JetsRUs or RockyMountainATVMC. I've had good experiences repeatedly with all of those sellers, but there are plenty of places that carry them. Start big... 95 or so on the main jet. This is a four-stroke in the link, but here's a simple tuning process that works : th-cam.com/video/K5j8gHg5kMc/w-d-xo.html Leave the stock air box alone. Should be no need to remove the snorkel while using the stock carb unless it's a particularly small one (some stock air boxes use a tiny passage in the snorkel). Modifying the air box or using a pod filter will require much larger jetting.
Thanks man! You're a fountain of info. Sometimes I have to watch 2 or 3 times just to absorb it all. By spending all the time and money for the testing you do, I think you are saving people a lot of time and money.
i have a question about tuning carburetors. wen tuning the pilot and needle and the main jet. is there a curtain order that you have to tune it in. i know the pilot gottha tune first because its easier to tune once bike idles good. but what should i tune first. the main jet or the needle??? thanks alot for ur help. i love all ur videos.
Some like different orders. I generally just get a reasonable idle, then I work on the main jet for WOT and then go back to making sure it idles and then fiddle with the needle. Can be some back and forth. Some will focus on needle first. www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.html
Great videos.i have a 2001 polaris scrambler 90 I have been working on for my kids the plug cap pops off on its own ordered a ngk like you suggested.but I have trouble getting fuel to the carb cleaned the petcock out and tank installed new gas lines and had to put the old ones back on.with a fuel filter on after the bowl is empty it will not refill.i took the carb apart and cleaned it.i do not want to tune anything until I get the plug cap which should be tomorrow.please help
Hi. Im running a aprilia rs90 with track exhaust the bike runs very well on a 12mm carburetor. Would a 17mm carburetor improve the performance. Bare in mind the performance of the bike is already very good. Help with this question could free up more power and that would be amazing👍.
My instinct is that a 12mm carb is pretty small for a 90cc two-stroke. That said, I don't know anything specifically about that bike. I can tell you that with my mild 90cc Minarelli engines in scooters, I saw an increase in cooling (lower CHT) with a 19mm carb in place of a stock 16mm carb. Didn't really notice any measurable power increase.
Hi again I buy a PiaggioZip 50 2T I need to cleaning the carburettor when I finiz screw all both screws in a many full turns I need screw auto thank you again appreciate
Count the turns required to screw all the way in BEFORE you alter anything. Write those numbers down. That should be a starting point if the carb has worked before. Otherwise, 1.5-2.5 turns out for a starting point guess.
Very good thanks. The vacum port....is that supposed to be connected to a vacum hose or line ? Er is it one way valve in there and shall not be connected. I mean there is a vacume hose or line to my Vivacity Scooter and it is connekted....not on the original carburetor...but on the intake manifold. I guess there is a vacum system that needs to work properly to let the engine or carburetor work properly. Easy to get confused when buy chinese carb on e-bay...because they do not come with instructions that you gave us here ! Thx.
@@49ccscoot Thank you ! Ehhh can i ask if it is likely i have a faulthy vacuum in my scooter...because it dies exactely afther one kilomere a proximatly. I thought it is the stator and pick up coil... I thought i saw no spark when inspect...but could have seen wrong. When cold it starts and work again...until that kilometer...it shuts down like it was shot ! Maybe it drops some fuel....but the vakum valve maybe faulthy and shuts down the fuel when running...oposite to what it should do. I know...i kan test and see if the gasoline is comming down the line. Just asking anyway he he ! :-) Thought the pick up or stator could react to heat and than shut down ? Or if those ar faulthy...they just does not work on and of like this ? Ok ok...much writing. Take care and thx again ! :-)
@@Norwaywildlife Could be a fuel supply issue. I replace my vacuum petcocks with manual switches because I've never had a manual fuel shutoff fail. Could also be something like float height too low, and then it drains the bowl. That is more likely if it dies when you are using a lot of throttle. Ignition components can also fail when hot. Sometimes it's easiest to try and get it to fail close to home. So if it goes 1km and dies, ride 1/2 km and then turn around and head back home. Have whatever you need to do some tests ready. Spark is an easy one to test about anywhere, especially if you carry a spare plug. If it loses spark when it dies and it's back when it will refire, then you know you need to investigate the ignition system.
@@49ccscoot Hey again ! Scooter Talk. My Vivacity...i found out it is Vivacity 1 and 1999 model. I changed the stator today and pick up coil. The problem still exist he he...So...the technique about the valve...i going to replace next...as you mentioned. Vacuum Petcocks. Now...I have a strange thing. It starts perfectly on the kick start....but with el start...it will not start. Can it be the battery delivers too little amp ? It turns arround though... Or have you ever experienced that the key swich faults and gives the coil grounding when activating the electrical start engine ? Or in other ways...when activating the starter...it in same time grounds the coil ? Ok...I guess i have to see on the spark. But it starts easy and good on the kick now ! :-) If i can ask ! ? :-) Anyway...thank you very much for you previouse ansvere ! If my one kilometer drive and stop is not fixed afther vacuum replacement...the carb will be inspected next...It will turn out good he he :-) Wghen working...it is an exellent scooter ! :-)
Thanks for your explanation.My bike Yamaha FZR 250. i cleaned my mikuni carburator (4) and cleaned main jet,pilot jet and adjust air mixture 2.5 turns out from the closing point.Cleaned the air filter.My problem is 3 times failed my eco (smoke) test and result show more petrol consumption.but last years easily pass the eco test.My problem is need to reduce petrol.How can i adjust/reduce petrol flow ?please help.Thank
I have the carb on the right when the video first starts. I am apparently missing that chrome cap/socket head screw. I was wondering if its just a normal screw or it is a special screw?
Hey I've got an '87 50cc jog. Won't start. Replaced carb and petcock and spark plug. Still won't start. With starter fluid will only run while spraying fluid directly into the carb. Any ideas?
Sounds like you need to figure out where fuel is reaching. Is fuel making it to the carb for example and is it filling the bowl? Also, is the gas old. If the gas has sat for awhile, it may not be good enough for the scoot to run.
I have same carb but i dont know what jets i need for 80 ccm, it has 22 pilot jet and 62.5 main jet monted now so i ve seen on pz19jb carb specs found on internet 80 main and 57.5 pilot ....i am confused
Man I have a yamati xtm 90cc 2 stroke that I was told by the original owner was a Yamaha clone. He said he bought the auto choke from a Yamaha dealer when it broke. It's running rich fowling plugs. I just need to know of all the Chinese at vs are they mostly the same? I can work on atvs myself but I just don't know where to start as far as ordering parts and such. The carb looks like this, are there rebuild kits? If I knew this awesome atvs basics I'd have a good starting point.
I noticed vacuum port is covered , is it meant to be covered at all times or is that for protection since it's new , if it's not meant to be covered where does it lead too , thanks in advance
Hay hi, thanks for answering. But the filter isent the carb filter, the 1 i mean is connected through the exaust maybe the catalizer.. or the exaust fumes filter. Its just im not sure why water is dripping out, and yes its water, through the exaust... and what do you think about the engine exaust manofold, when i took the exaust off the hole by the engine was like half bunged up. Is it a restriction,? Or a carbon build up.? Or is that normal, with a 2T 50cc moped.? Thanks again
hey ghost rider, lol, i finally put the new carb today but i had a question, where does the rpms have to be when its idle, my wheel starts spinning at 3000 rpms, the wheel STOPS spinning at 2700 rpms, should i leave it at 2700 or i heard that the normal rpms is at 2000 rpms for a scoot, which one is it??
1500-2100RPM is the range mine are normally set in. Most will idle fine on the lower end of that, but getting the idle up to 2000RPM or so can help with charging if that's an issue. There's not one spec that's right for every scoot.
What is the easiest way to clean out a exhaust pipe and muffler I have a 2001 polaris scrambler 90 and it has a lot of oil build up in the pipe.the kids that owned it before never ran it enough to heat up the pipe to burn it off
my carb has an additional horizontal port that sits below the vertical vacuum port. I assume this is for the breather hose from the stock air box? Is it necessary to connect it?
Some have multiple vacuum ports or it could be something else. I've never had a breather hose on any of my two-stroke airboxes. See if you can find a diagram or pic of your machine to verify. If it's a vacuum port, it must either be connected or capped though.
I can't seem to find an example of any diagram with my exact air box (OEM Yamaha 3KJ horizontal minarelli) The examples I find are 90percent the same with the exception of the absent hose which my airbox has. The port on the carb that I am referring to often comes with a short 90 degree piece of open hose on the end of the port from the supplier and is not capped off. I don't know if that explains much @@49ccscoot
@@stemfilms901 That may be a vent then. There is usually a bowl vent (or 2) on carbs. Often with a downturned hose on it/them. If you check the carb out, you should be able to tell what's what. A vacuum port would have to go into the inlet tract. A bowl vent would lead to the bowl.
@@49ccscoot if in case it is a bowl vent, should I just leave the 90 degree hose on there as it came and just zip tie the hose from the airbox? Really confused about the purpose/placement of that air box hose lol
help i hav a dinli 100cc that is running too rich, there's petrol mist coming out of the air intake when running how can I fix this, it also goes to die out from time to time then it will run fine for a while then trys to die again
What is the fuel drain connected to? I am having problem with that pink fuel drain hose? Should it be attached to something? And it's for a Yamaha Zuma scooter. Thanks.
It's just there to redirect the fuel when you drain it so it doesn't spill on the engine. In some cases there's a drain valve on the end of it and the drain screw on the bowl is left open so it can be easily drained. I see that more on the four-strokes though.
Hi, the carb to the right, has a "chrome button" on the left side of the carb (opposit side of choke). What is this? On my carb, the chrome button is missing.. Can you run with out? /Rob
It's a bolt that doesn't do anything on this one. It's some sort of block off that they put on some and others don't have at all. I don't recall ever owning a carb like these that has an open passage there or makes use of whatever it was intended to be. So I guess the short answer is, you should be fine... as long as it's not an opening without anything in it that leads into the intake tract.
4:20 The oil injection, on mine its closed with a rubber cap. if i was to install a tank with just 2 stroke oil would it give the engine the proper mixture without me having to pre mix it and put it all in just one tank? I know a friends scooter did that but wonder if i can do that on mine (same carb). or am i just better off premixing?
I've been premixing all of mine for years and many many fill ups. You get used to it pretty quick. Keep the oil amounts needed for your desired mix ratio in your head or note them somewhere if needed. Carry oil in a container that's easy to read amounts on for measuring.
***** i just bought my first 2 stroke. and im computer smart engine dumb. the bikes ive had before where all GY6 4 Stroke chinese scooters. carb little messed up so i just bought a kit that included one. has a no rev cdi, a carb, coil, and filter. so hope to get it to idle tomorrow.
When it's running well, the 2T will probably only leave you missing the 4T scoots when you're putting more gas in. Not as fuel efficient, but lots of power potential. At 300lb my Tritons would carry me at around 40MPH cruising stock where the little TaoTao 4T only wants to do 30-35MPH. Good luck with the repairs/swap. Check out the forums (URL in vid) and there's a lot of tech info and a lot of us working on those engines there.
Hi iv been fixed to your videos a late. Great.. 2 questions pls help. Firstly i changed my exaust, ov my 50cc sx sachs, 2T. And notice the exit engine manifold hole , looked bunged up, is that a restriction, or carbon build up.? Should i just leave it.?. Secondly under my seat iv a black box coming from the exaust with a filter in it, dont no wat you call it. Lol. Sorry. Well the foam filter was black oiley,and wet. Plus iv noticed water drips alot from it, and fumes,, is that normal.? Wats it do.? Im stuck. Thanks. Keep up the great vids.
Not sure about the pipe. Trying to clean it should tell you. That's the airbox. Could be normal if it hasn't had attention in a while. Clean it and oil it with air filter oil and then see what it does. Water shouldn't be dripping from it though. Sure it's water?
Hi can you describe how the carb on the LEFT connects to the scooter? I am having an issue that there doesn't seem to be a place to connect the vacuum hose to from petcock, but the manifold hoses/connections I see online are all made for clamping to the outlet like the carb on the right. the one on the left, the one I have is "flat" so no where to clamp? basic it seems but can't figure it out so here I am. thanks
With the carbs shown, left on scoot (if you're sitting on the scoot, your left) should be fuel. On the center, facing upward, should be vacuum. On the right should be oil injection.
Hello, on my scooter the fuel drain hose is just pointing on the ground. is there some special place where it should be put, or its ok this way? i am kind of confused :), because as i removed the carburetor, the hose was just sitting there and it was not connected to something.
Some scoots have an end on the hose that works as a shutoff valve and the bowl drain is left open. Those usually have a hole to let them attach to one of the CVT cover bolt holes. Others just have a hose hanging down. As long as the hose is secure, that's OK.
These carbs are so cheap on eBay that there's no point in a rebuild kit, unless you happen to have one of the Mikuni carbs. Check out kaseaparts dot comm for a lot or replacement parts and I think they sell the carb parts or if it's not Mikuni just go on eBay and search Polaris 90 carb or something like that. Not all of the enrichers fit exactly the same. There's a chance the Yamaha enricher isn't right so it's always letting fuel by. Could just be jetted wrong too.
90GTVert, I have a 50cc with the carburetor that has the big silver headed carb that has the PZ-19 on it, the bolt is missing and I was wondering what that is for. Also When my scooter gets a bit warmer after starting it hesitates a lot when riding. It seams that if I throttle up and down really quickly it accelerates better, any ideas as to what I should look at?
Some carbs are simply cast sealed where that bolt is. Nothing to worry about unless you have an open path into the carb, in which case you must seal it. First is to be sure the carb is clean. Then evaluate your tune. Figure out where the hesitation is happening (at what throttle positions). If you watch this series of vids it should explain the various settings and throttle positions. 0 up to 1/8-1/4 throttle issues = idle mixture/pilot jet, 1/8-1/4 up to 3/4 throttle = needle profile or clip position, 3/4 to WOT = main jet. There are more things, but those are most common.
I'm helping a friend try and fix her carb on a TGB scooter that has a float bowl that's overflowing. The carb says Mikuni, but for the life of me I can't find the model and none of their float valves match up to this viton tipped one. It looks a LOT like this carb. Is it a knockoff Mikuni? Should I just not try to find a rebuild kit and just order one of these carbs off ebay and tune it?
This is a Mikuni knockoff. Unless a dealer can get you the part, replacing it is probably going to be the easy fix. Even on the clones some of the parts are similar but not quite the same so generally they get replaced if a cleaning can't save them.
help, my bike only runs decently on a low main jet where the plug is white. if I upjet my carb to get correct mixture my bike runs terrible. help please
+ItsTommmm Your plug could be too hot and not coloring or the runs may be too short to color it or maybe you should consider looking at the mixture ring if you're going to read plugs. Here's more tuning info : www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.html
i have a yamaha razz 50cc and want to buy a new carb coz the stock one is worn out and leaks fuel. i dont know how to check the carb size. the manual doesnt show. how do i measure the carb size?
I hope you can help me, (english isnt my language, so there will be some words that are spelled wrong. I have a cpi GTR 50, 2 stroke. The carburator is the same one you have! And the petcock, the flat end. My one is a dellorto 12 mm phv or sommething. But i bought that cpi from a guy who had the bike sitting for 7-8 years. The rubber that is between the carburator and airfilter was cracked, so it got more air than needed. So i quickly fixed that, and now i dosnt have air leaks, i started and idle fine, but i couldnt still drive it, if i give it more than 50% gas it just goes back to idle or shuts off. (not a fuel problem by the way, the bike is stock and fuel jets) then i cleaned the carburator and putted it back together, and now it only start with some help from a carburator cleaner and idles High, for 1 second, and then shuts off. But before i cleaned the carburator it idle fine. But i have to say this. The air adjustment screw is totally shot. U cant screw it in or out, i can see that the previos owner have messed with it. Do you think the problem is in the air adjustment screw? Every other things checks out fine without air leaking thrue, like the rubber thing that holds the carburator or the rubber thing between the carburator or airfilter. Thanks for your time, i had to write so much so you can understand easily.
Knowing that part of the carburetor is bad, I would replace the carburetor. If it's only the screw itself, then you could try to replace that. Don't bother if it's the body of the carb that is messed up.
Tks four your great video, just an question I have a Sym Fiddle version 1 from 1999 is have a stand carburetor I need to change the main jet up 10 a15% because I fit a 75cc cylinder Naraku soo I don't know the size the main jet the moment can you tell me Whitch size if you know and Whitch best size I can fit on four a good perfumance tks best regards: Berenguer
Secure it is the simple answer. Kinda hard to know without seeing it. You can join the forum (49ccscoot.proboards.com) and post with pics if you'd like. Random guess, tighten clamps.
Well the proplem is it doesn't have clamps, i lost the air filter because it doesn't have clamps i looked everywhere and i couldn't find them, btw your vids are super helpful for me because i rebuilt the engine and it didn't start very easily i thought i did it wrong but turns out someone messed with the idle screw so that's why i couldn't start it when it's cold.
Yamaha dealers or somewhere like kaseaparts should have stock replacement clamps. The carb/intake clamp could be replaced with a common worm gear hose clamp in a pinch.
+Billy Joel If the engine has been running and it's getting no oil it should seize and the piston and rings and cylinder should all show obvious scuffing. You can do a bleed procedure to make sure the pump is working or premix some fuel to run the scoot with and let it run with the hose off in a container to be sure oil comes out. The check valve back there is a very simple ball and spring. My favorite way to deal with premix is to remove the pump, promptly toss it into a trash can, and premix my fuel and oil.
If you're talking about one of the youth ATVs that has a Minarelli engine like the scoots, it should be pretty much a direct replacement. The carb should be tuned, but I'd want to tune it even getting a replacement right from the manufacturer.
Hi. I bougth a Benelli 2 stroke 50cc knew and the problem I'm facing it's the scooter it's hard to start. Sometimes it starts but the idle is so low that sometimes the enfgine dies. Sometimes to start it needs a little bit of throttle. The scooter was in the dealership one day and came with an high idle (2.000+) after warm. What it could be? The carburetor it's exactly the same in the right side when the video starts. I'd like to tune it myself but I don't know where to start at least the idle screw. The other screw I also leave it with 2 turns but what else needs to be done to have the scooter with best take off? The scooter also spents a lot of fuel!!! They told me that from factory the scooter came with two sizes of jet and they installed the bigger ones. Could be the source of all problems? The scooter it's all stock so...
nuno ribeiro It could be jetted wrong or need some other tuning or it could be something else. I'd start by watching the rest of these vids that show the idle mixture adjustment and other settings. Try the mixture adjustment and that may clear up you idle issues or at least improve them. There's also a simple trial and error tuning method that can be tried if you have a selection of jets. It's shown in the video in this link th-cam.com/video/K5j8gHg5kMc/w-d-xo.html . That is a four-stroke, but you can go through the same process with a 2T. If you can't seem to get it right and have lousy fuel consumption you may also want to make sure you have a good strong spark (blue/white and able to jump a large gap consistently) and be sure your reeds are sealing. You can remove the reed block and hold it up to light. If you see much light around the edges you can try flipping the reeds over or replacing them to see if they seal better. If reeds are damaged or don't seal well it will usually cause a rich condition.
I'll try that. The question here is that the scooter is new. The engine code seems the same you refer in your videos but I need to check. I'll tell them to install the smaller jet to see what appens.
From what I see in a quick search it should be similar. Sorry, we don't even get the Aerox in the US. The Zumas here are all 4Ts for the last few years.
Do you mean the little brass button in the mouth of the carb? Where you see holes in the inlet then there's one blocked off, or are you talking about something else?
Has anyone on here ever come across any problems with the auto choke on these carbs? I’m having trouble with my sons buzz 50 starts and runs but soon as you go to drive away it bogs down and cuts out. Won’t start again until you have switched the kill switch off and on again then it starts easy but cuts out shortly after. Carbs clean and fuels flowing but I haven’t dealt with a auto choke before so could it be electrical?
The automatic enricher heats up and expands to cover a port and stop enrichment. If you can shut the engine off and then fire it right back up, it shouldn't be the enricher because it's state shouldn't change that much by cooling for a second or two. If there is a timelapse till it starts again, giving then enricher time to cool and contract, then you are probably on the right track.
@@49ccscoot brilliant explanation thank you for that. That kind of reply earns a sub all day long👍🏻I might need to give the carb another strip down then and a more intricate clean. It sat for a bit with fuel in the carb I wouldn’t of thought it was long enough to coz any trouble but the new fuel really does solidify quick so maybe I’ve got a jet blockage somewhere. Thanks again
@@weebinniec If you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner, you may want to try that. I have had carbs that were cleaned thoroughly before and then worked after ultrasonic cleaning. It's not common, but easy enough if you have one around.
There's not a lot too it. Shut off fuel if not a vacuum petcock. Drain the bowl (screw on bottom of bowl usually). Unscrew the cap and remove the throttle cable (shown in one of these vids). Disconnect the fuel hose and oil and vacuum hoses if you have them. Unplug the connector for the electric choke. Then there should just be a clamp on the intake holding the carb on. Once that's loose, it should come off.
You can find tons of them searching something like Polaris 90 carb or Jog carb on eBay and just look at pics to make sure it's correct. Could go genuine and get a Mikuni VM16. Could buy a different carb like a Dellorto 19-21mm PHBG. Lots of options.
My fuel drain is draining fuel to much and when l start scooter it need to fill the bole it runs but dont want to rev after giving it gas after minut it start runing okey wants to rev, fuel consumption trow the roof
The good news is that a DellOrto PHBG 21mm is usually a pretty simple swap in place of the stock carb. No personal experience with the BWS100, but if the intake and airbox fit the same carb that I showed it should be easy enough and plenty of carb unless it's a high revving setup.
Great videos.i have a 2001 polaris scrambler 90 I have been working on for my kids the plug cap pops off on its own ordered a ngk like you suggested.but I have trouble getting fuel to the carb cleaned the petcock out and tank installed new gas lines and had to put the old ones back on.with a fuel filter on after the bowl is empty it will not refill.i took the carb apart and cleaned it.i do not want to tune anything until I get the plug cap which should be tomorrow.i did not use tygon fuel line.
Great videos.i have a 2001 polaris scrambler 90 I have been working on for my kids the plug cap pops off on its own ordered a ngk like you suggested.but I have trouble getting fuel to the carb cleaned the petcock out and tank installed new gas lines and had to put the old ones back on.with a fuel filter on after the bowl is empty it will not refill.i took the carb apart and cleaned it.i do not want to tune anything until I get the plug cap which should be tomorrow.please help
help i hav a dinli 100cc that is running too rich, there's petrol mist coming out of the air intake when running how can I fix this, it also goes to die out from time to time then it will run fine for a while then trys to die again
help i hav a dinli 100cc that is running too rich, there's petrol mist coming out of the air intake when running how can I fix this, it also goes to die out from time to time then it will run fine for a while then trys to die again
help i hav a dinli 100cc that is running too rich, there's petrol mist coming out of the air intake when running how can I fix this, it also goes to die out from time to time then it will run fine for a while then trys to die again
+Chris Carr I'd go through a full tuning process like this : www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.html I'd also recommend checking your reed valves prior to tuning.
Thanks so much dude,this vid and the following ones really, really, helped me out fixing my brother's scooter ! Merci beaucoup !
Glad to hear that they were of use!
This just saved me $100 plus dollars thank you very much
This video series has definitely come in handy a few times. However with your new an improved filming / editing skills I was curious if you would be interested in remaking this series or similarly a video on how to choose a carb for your application, and how you go about tunning it. I seem to always struggle with this and more than once with a scooter build have ended up buying multiple carbs until finding a good match.
helped a lot man... i have a first gen jog and i bought a 3kj carburetor for it but since the holes for the vacuum line and others are different then on the previous one i wasn't sure where to connect them.
Thanks, never gets old
Awesome video! this cleared up so much with a mystery carb i got... I dont want to replace because it's in almost new condition but i was able to track it down to a Lumix GC 90cc.. for a 2 stroke, granted i'm completely new to 2 stroke motors, i've been able to piece through the majority but i've been hesitant to run it only because it oddly has 2 oil inlets, one hose is 1/8" that seemingly goes to the oil pump, but then another brass one with a nipple/barb next to where you have your oil inlet on the carb (the carb with the brass elbow with no barb/nipple). Thanks to you i figured out that the fuel inlet is the cast inlet at the top (weird to see a fuel line with a cast inlet)... but i'm not sure about the two oil inlets. Its on a 90cc dinli, and i have an oil resevoir that connects directly to the cylinder behind the crankcase, the small 1/8 hose that comes from the pump to the carb... and that still leaves the one oil inlet open on the carb with nowhere to connect... some people said just to create a closed loop on the oil pump/cylinder connect so that it basically just cycles within that loop, and just cap off both ends on the carb (essentially i just connected a hose from the 1/8 inlet to the larger one (both on carb). here's a pic of the carb i'm talking about... Any idea as to whether it's ok to create a closed loop and/or cap the two oil inlets on the carb and just premix? or if i were to keep the oil pump connected, would i just cap the larger of the two oil inlets? thanks so much for your videos and in advance for any and all help! :)
cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/atvconnection.com-vbulletin/614x450/lumixgcdinli_5e441bc4b1d1bb24065afdaac309cafc47c3db89.jpg
Oil Inject 1 is a vacuum source. Cap it if it's not needed for something (like a vacuum petcock). Oil Inject 2 is the actual spot for oil injection.
@@49ccscoot my 150 scooter has carb issues no matter what I do change main jet, needle position, fuel air screw etc I've been working on these for 10 years. So I ordered a kit. If the needle and seat are bad that will do it. The diagram has gas on it it's supposed to be dry.
@@burt1758 Float height and needle/seat issues could be it. If you have another carb you could also see if the same happens to it.
I'm not sure what it has stock, but it may be marked on the jet. If not, a service manual may tell you. I'd get an assortment of jets so it can be dialed in better anyway.
Thanks for this vid, I have a Chinese 2 stroke scoot with I think the 14mm Mikuni(copy) carburettor and I’m having persistent flooding issues, I’ve taken the carb off over a half dozen times, cleaned it using carb clean spray, adjusted the float height, it works for a while but after a week or two the coughing and spluttering and not wanting to Rev comes back,
I bought a new carb for it, and it will not even run on that, I’m at a loss as to what it may be, it either floods or starves.
Have you checked the jetting in the new carb? Sometimes the jetting is way off of what you had or need in replacement carbs.
@@49ccscoot The only things I’ve checked is the float height, I don’t know if one of the previous owners messed with it trying to get more power out of it and completely upset the setup.
Do these have a clip setting on the Throttle needle? I haven’t checked that.
The plug is white but then drips of fuel come out the overflow pipe on the carb.
It’s happy to rev up to a half throttle, beyond that it loses power and sounds like the choke is on or something.
@@willswheels283 Unless it's one of those nifty EPA approved deals, it should have an adjustable needle. Being good up to, but not beyond, half throttle makes me think main jet.
@@49ccscoot Thanks mate for your help, I’m thinking along the same lines now as well, I’ll check the throttle needle.
Found out it goes to petcock but my , petcock doesn't have a vacuum line , do I need a different petcock ?
Great series, Thank you!!!
Nice tech,,,,,, thanks.
This video was actually:
"YOU HAVE A SMALLER CARB THAN YOU THINK"
Great video as usual,,,,I have both 50 and 150cc 4 strokes,,,,I just picked up a prescott 50i and the carb is shot, however I noticed that this carb has no vaccum line to it, just fuel in and out from petcock and vaccum to intake manifold, when I get the new carb do I just plug up any vaccum ports on carb or does this scooter require a special carb? Also, I usually get the $28 carbs from amazon both 18 and 24mm and have no issues with them at all, can you recommend a resonable priced carb that you think would out perform these carbs that would work on those bikes? Flat slide perhaps! Id hate to replace the throttle cable but I would do it,,,,TY for all your hard work.
You shouldn't need a special carb. Make your connection to the petcock and any other vacuum accessories and plug leftover ports.
If the current carbs work, stick with 'em. I've never used a flat slide on these, but PWK is the popular choice. Often said to be harder to tune and doesn't stay in tune as well as a CV carb. The main advantage that I hear regularly is improved throttle response.
Great videos.i have a 2001 polaris scrambler 90 I have been working on for my kids the plug cap pops off on its own ordered a ngk like you suggested.but I have trouble getting fuel to the carb cleaned the petcock out and tank installed new gas lines and had to put the old ones back on.with a fuel filter on after the bowl is empty it will not refill.i took the carb apart and cleaned it.i do not want to tune anything until I get the plug cap which should be tomorrow.i did not use tygon fuel line.
Not sure if the tygon will make much difference there. Check your float height just to be sure it's not the issue. I don't think any of my carbs have had rubber to seal the needle... or do you mean the float needle? Float needle should either be rubber coated on the tip or have a rubber seal to interact with. If that was not sealing though, you'd get more fuel than you want and it would overflow not be low on fuel.
Very clear and concise video.I have a Kawasaki weed eater. The carb has no mixture adjustment. The problem I have is that for the engine to idle I have to set the throttle cable so the slide is way above the idle setting screw. Can you help me on this? Sorry that my carb is not the same as on your excellent video
ron martin Mhg I've only worked on my own weedwackers, which always had an idle speed screw. I'd start by trying to find an owner's or service manual to see if there is anything in there about it.
***** Thanks for the quick response. Mine has an idle screw . but it is doing nothing as the slide is way above it. I'll try to get a manual as you suggest.
There's plenty of videos for what you need I asked a 4 stroke question about a carb issue I forget he deals with 2- smokes. Like everything else I will figure it out. 😃😁
Thanks for the help,I have removed the cap have even blown in to the tank.the problem I believe is from the petcock to the top of the carb which is on the opposite side it drops about 1 inch.would the tygon line help,seeing it looks more flexible.the needle has no rubber top could some one have messed with the carb before I got it.
Hello, what could cause exhaust smoke coming out of carburator? Also the revs would go up hard/hesitating, it'll work if I set the mixture screw at 3 turns, and at full throttle the revs would go up and down, it'll lose power then gain it again.
There is no carburetor setting that will make smoke come out of the carburetor. An abundance of fuel may be part of the cause if it's actually fuel vapor/mist.
Are the lines routed continuously downward to avoid major air pockets? Try taking the cap off of the tank and see if it fills.
What a great series of videos. Very well explained with patience and detail. I will soon be going to Hawaii to visit my son and while I am there we have planned to install a big bore (70cc) for his GTX Turbocam (Chinese Jog variant). I think we just want to stick with the stock carb, what jets should we use? I would rather err on the side of rich than lean. Thanks again!!
Thank you. I would advise getting a jet kit for the carburetor and tuning it. I've never found that one jet size fits all. You can get a jet kit (part 114-50) from here for about $15 : www.partsforscooters.com/?partner=49CCSCOOT or buy them individually and you can find them as Mikuni VM11/22 from places like JetsRUs or RockyMountainATVMC. I've had good experiences repeatedly with all of those sellers, but there are plenty of places that carry them.
Start big... 95 or so on the main jet. This is a four-stroke in the link, but here's a simple tuning process that works : th-cam.com/video/K5j8gHg5kMc/w-d-xo.html
Leave the stock air box alone. Should be no need to remove the snorkel while using the stock carb unless it's a particularly small one (some stock air boxes use a tiny passage in the snorkel). Modifying the air box or using a pod filter will require much larger jetting.
***** You're awesome! Thanks!
Stick with stock pilot?
Yeah, most likely the stock pilot jet will work fine. You may have to adjust the idle mixture screw or needle settings.
Thanks man! You're a fountain of info. Sometimes I have to watch 2 or 3 times just to absorb it all. By spending all the time and money for the testing you do, I think you are saving people a lot of time and money.
Please anyone can help . My carburetor from TGB 49 cc, 2t , 2008 scooter , is broken. What carburetor can I put instead ?
i have a question about tuning carburetors. wen tuning the pilot and needle and the main jet. is there a curtain order that you have to tune it in. i know the pilot gottha tune first because its easier to tune once bike idles good. but what should i tune first. the main jet or the needle??? thanks alot for ur help. i love all ur videos.
Some like different orders. I generally just get a reasonable idle, then I work on the main jet for WOT and then go back to making sure it idles and then fiddle with the needle. Can be some back and forth. Some will focus on needle first.
www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.html
Great videos.i have a 2001 polaris scrambler 90 I have been working on for my kids the plug cap pops off on its own ordered a ngk like you suggested.but I have trouble getting fuel to the carb cleaned the petcock out and tank installed new gas lines and had to put the old ones back on.with a fuel filter on after the bowl is empty it will not refill.i took the carb apart and cleaned it.i do not want to tune anything until I get the plug cap which should be tomorrow.please help
Should have a vid of installation,hoses connection,what to cap off etc..
Hi. Im running a aprilia rs90 with track exhaust the bike runs very well on a 12mm carburetor. Would a 17mm carburetor improve the performance. Bare in mind the performance of the bike is already very good. Help with this question could free up more power and that would be amazing👍.
My instinct is that a 12mm carb is pretty small for a 90cc two-stroke. That said, I don't know anything specifically about that bike. I can tell you that with my mild 90cc Minarelli engines in scooters, I saw an increase in cooling (lower CHT) with a 19mm carb in place of a stock 16mm carb. Didn't really notice any measurable power increase.
Hi again I buy a PiaggioZip 50 2T I need to cleaning the carburettor when I finiz screw all both screws in a many full turns I need screw auto thank you again appreciate
Count the turns required to screw all the way in BEFORE you alter anything. Write those numbers down. That should be a starting point if the carb has worked before. Otherwise, 1.5-2.5 turns out for a starting point guess.
Very good thanks. The vacum port....is that supposed to be connected to a vacum hose or line ? Er is it one way valve in there and shall not be connected. I mean there is a vacume hose or line to my Vivacity Scooter and it is connekted....not on the original carburetor...but on the intake manifold. I guess there is a vacum system that needs to work properly to let the engine or carburetor work properly. Easy to get confused when buy chinese carb on e-bay...because they do not come with instructions that you gave us here ! Thx.
Most likely it goes to a vacuum petcock so it automatically shuts off fuel supply when the engine isn't running.
@@49ccscoot Thank you ! Ehhh can i ask if it is likely i have a faulthy vacuum in my scooter...because it dies exactely afther one kilomere a proximatly. I thought it is the stator and pick up coil... I thought i saw no spark when inspect...but could have seen wrong. When cold it starts and work again...until that kilometer...it shuts down like it was shot ! Maybe it drops some fuel....but the vakum valve maybe faulthy and shuts down the fuel when running...oposite to what it should do. I know...i kan test and see if the gasoline is comming down the line. Just asking anyway he he ! :-) Thought the pick up or stator could react to heat and than shut down ? Or if those ar faulthy...they just does not work on and of like this ? Ok ok...much writing. Take care and thx again ! :-)
@@Norwaywildlife Could be a fuel supply issue. I replace my vacuum petcocks with manual switches because I've never had a manual fuel shutoff fail. Could also be something like float height too low, and then it drains the bowl. That is more likely if it dies when you are using a lot of throttle. Ignition components can also fail when hot. Sometimes it's easiest to try and get it to fail close to home. So if it goes 1km and dies, ride 1/2 km and then turn around and head back home. Have whatever you need to do some tests ready. Spark is an easy one to test about anywhere, especially if you carry a spare plug. If it loses spark when it dies and it's back when it will refire, then you know you need to investigate the ignition system.
@@49ccscoot Thank you ! :-) Super ! Appreciated ! :-)
@@49ccscoot Hey again ! Scooter Talk. My Vivacity...i found out it is Vivacity 1 and 1999 model. I changed the stator today and pick up coil. The problem still exist he he...So...the technique about the valve...i going to replace next...as you mentioned. Vacuum Petcocks. Now...I have a strange thing. It starts perfectly on the kick start....but with el start...it will not start. Can it be the battery delivers too little amp ? It turns arround though... Or have you ever experienced that the key swich faults and gives the coil grounding when activating the electrical start engine ? Or in other ways...when activating the starter...it in same time grounds the coil ? Ok...I guess i have to see on the spark. But it starts easy and good on the kick now ! :-) If i can ask ! ? :-) Anyway...thank you very much for you previouse ansvere ! If my one kilometer drive and stop is not fixed afther vacuum replacement...the carb will be inspected next...It will turn out good he he :-) Wghen working...it is an exellent scooter ! :-)
Thanks for your explanation.My bike Yamaha FZR 250. i cleaned my mikuni
carburator (4) and cleaned main jet,pilot jet and adjust air mixture 2.5
turns out from the closing point.Cleaned the air filter.My problem is 3 times failed my eco
(smoke) test and result show more petrol consumption.but last years
easily pass the eco test.My problem is need to reduce petrol.How can i
adjust/reduce petrol flow ?please help.Thank
I have the carb on the right when the video first starts. I am apparently missing that chrome cap/socket head screw. I was wondering if its just a normal screw or it is a special screw?
Is the makuni 14mm mixture screw adjusting air or fuel?
Just look at which side it's on. If the mix screw is on the air filter side, it's adjusting air. If it's on the engine side, it's adjusting fuel.
Hey I've got an '87 50cc jog. Won't start. Replaced carb and petcock and spark plug. Still won't start. With starter fluid will only run while spraying fluid directly into the carb. Any ideas?
Sounds like you need to figure out where fuel is reaching. Is fuel making it to the carb for example and is it filling the bowl? Also, is the gas old. If the gas has sat for awhile, it may not be good enough for the scoot to run.
I have same carb but i dont know what jets i need for 80 ccm, it has 22 pilot jet and 62.5 main jet monted now so i ve seen on pz19jb carb specs found on internet 80 main and 57.5 pilot ....i am confused
Man I have a yamati xtm 90cc 2 stroke that I was told by the original owner was a Yamaha clone. He said he bought the auto choke from a Yamaha dealer when it broke. It's running rich fowling plugs. I just need to know of all the Chinese at vs are they mostly the same? I can work on atvs myself but I just don't know where to start as far as ordering parts and such. The carb looks like this, are there rebuild kits? If I knew this awesome atvs basics I'd have a good starting point.
I noticed vacuum port is covered , is it meant to be covered at all times or is that for protection since it's new , if it's not meant to be covered where does it lead too , thanks in advance
Can be for vacuum petcock connection. If not used, it needs to be capped.
@3:50 adjustment screws.
Thanks for the overview @49ccScoot
Hay hi, thanks for answering. But the filter isent the carb filter, the 1 i mean is connected through the exaust maybe the catalizer.. or the exaust fumes filter. Its just im not sure why water is dripping out, and yes its water, through the exaust... and what do you think about the engine exaust manofold, when i took the exaust off the hole by the engine was like half bunged up. Is it a restriction,? Or a carbon build up.? Or is that normal, with a 2T 50cc moped.? Thanks again
I'd try cleaning the header and see what happens. Other sounds like emissions junk.
Ytit
hey ghost rider, lol, i finally put the new carb today but i had a question, where does the rpms have to be when its idle, my wheel starts spinning at 3000 rpms, the wheel STOPS spinning at 2700 rpms, should i leave it at 2700 or i heard that the normal rpms is at 2000 rpms for a scoot, which one is it??
1500-2100RPM is the range mine are normally set in. Most will idle fine on the lower end of that, but getting the idle up to 2000RPM or so can help with charging if that's an issue. There's not one spec that's right for every scoot.
What is the easiest way to clean out a exhaust pipe and muffler I have a 2001 polaris scrambler 90 and it has a lot of oil build up in the pipe.the kids that owned it before never ran it enough to heat up the pipe to burn it off
A lot of people use caustic soda. Google "caustic soda exhaust" or something like that and you'll find more detailed instructions.
my carb has an additional horizontal port that sits below the vertical vacuum port. I assume this is for the breather hose from the stock air box? Is it necessary to connect it?
Some have multiple vacuum ports or it could be something else. I've never had a breather hose on any of my two-stroke airboxes. See if you can find a diagram or pic of your machine to verify. If it's a vacuum port, it must either be connected or capped though.
I can't seem to find an example of any diagram with my exact air box (OEM Yamaha 3KJ horizontal minarelli) The examples I find are 90percent the same with the exception of the absent hose which my airbox has.
The port on the carb that I am referring to often comes with a short 90 degree piece of open hose on the end of the port from the supplier and is not capped off. I don't know if that explains much @@49ccscoot
@@stemfilms901 That may be a vent then. There is usually a bowl vent (or 2) on carbs. Often with a downturned hose on it/them. If you check the carb out, you should be able to tell what's what. A vacuum port would have to go into the inlet tract. A bowl vent would lead to the bowl.
@@49ccscoot if in case it is a bowl vent, should I just leave the 90 degree hose on there as it came and just zip tie the hose from the airbox?
Really confused about the purpose/placement of that air box hose lol
@@stemfilms901 That's where I'd start.
help i hav a dinli 100cc that is running too rich, there's petrol mist coming out of the air intake when running how can I fix this, it also goes to die out from time to time then it will run fine for a while then trys to die again
What is the fuel drain connected to?
I am having problem with that pink fuel drain hose? Should it be attached to something? And it's for a Yamaha Zuma scooter.
Thanks.
It's just there to redirect the fuel when you drain it so it doesn't spill on the engine. In some cases there's a drain valve on the end of it and the drain screw on the bowl is left open so it can be easily drained. I see that more on the four-strokes though.
Hi, the carb to the right, has a "chrome button" on the left side of the carb (opposit side of choke). What is this? On my carb, the chrome button is missing.. Can you run with out? /Rob
It's a bolt that doesn't do anything on this one. It's some sort of block off that they put on some and others don't have at all. I don't recall ever owning a carb like these that has an open passage there or makes use of whatever it was intended to be. So I guess the short answer is, you should be fine... as long as it's not an opening without anything in it that leads into the intake tract.
The carb on the right what is that silver screw? You never said what it was
It's a bolt that is blocking off a hole from the factory. Not something that you should touch.
4:20 The oil injection, on mine its closed with a rubber cap. if i was to install a tank with just 2 stroke oil would it give the engine the proper mixture without me having to pre mix it and put it all in just one tank? I know a friends scooter did that but wonder if i can do that on mine (same carb). or am i just better off premixing?
I prefer pre-mix. If you do convert you need a pump as well.
ah. thanks for the info. ill just stick to premix then. just remember to keep some 2 stroke oil with me incase i need to fill up while im out.
I've been premixing all of mine for years and many many fill ups. You get used to it pretty quick. Keep the oil amounts needed for your desired mix ratio in your head or note them somewhere if needed. Carry oil in a container that's easy to read amounts on for measuring.
***** i just bought my first 2 stroke. and im computer smart engine dumb. the bikes ive had before where all GY6 4 Stroke chinese scooters.
carb little messed up so i just bought a kit that included one. has a no rev cdi, a carb, coil, and filter. so hope to get it to idle tomorrow.
When it's running well, the 2T will probably only leave you missing the 4T scoots when you're putting more gas in. Not as fuel efficient, but lots of power potential. At 300lb my Tritons would carry me at around 40MPH cruising stock where the little TaoTao 4T only wants to do 30-35MPH.
Good luck with the repairs/swap. Check out the forums (URL in vid) and there's a lot of tech info and a lot of us working on those engines there.
Hi iv been fixed to your videos a late. Great.. 2 questions pls help. Firstly i changed my exaust, ov my 50cc sx sachs, 2T. And notice the exit engine manifold hole , looked bunged up, is that a restriction, or carbon build up.? Should i just leave it.?. Secondly under my seat iv a black box coming from the exaust with a filter in it, dont no wat you call it. Lol. Sorry. Well the foam filter was black oiley,and wet. Plus iv noticed water drips alot from it, and fumes,, is that normal.? Wats it do.? Im stuck. Thanks. Keep up the great vids.
Not sure about the pipe. Trying to clean it should tell you. That's the airbox. Could be normal if it hasn't had attention in a while. Clean it and oil it with air filter oil and then see what it does. Water shouldn't be dripping from it though. Sure it's water?
And with the engine exaust manifold, restrictions, oder cabon.
Hi can you describe how the carb on the LEFT connects to the scooter? I am having an issue that there doesn't seem to be a place to connect the vacuum hose to from petcock, but the manifold hoses/connections I see online are all made for clamping to the outlet like the carb on the right. the one on the left, the one I have is "flat" so no where to clamp? basic it seems but can't figure it out so here I am. thanks
With the carbs shown, left on scoot (if you're sitting on the scoot, your left) should be fuel. On the center, facing upward, should be vacuum. On the right should be oil injection.
Hello, on my scooter the fuel drain hose is just pointing on the ground. is there some special place where it should be put, or its ok this way? i am kind of confused :), because as i removed the carburetor, the hose was just sitting there and it was not connected to something.
Some scoots have an end on the hose that works as a shutoff valve and the bowl drain is left open. Those usually have a hole to let them attach to one of the CVT cover bolt holes. Others just have a hose hanging down. As long as the hose is secure, that's OK.
My 50cc scooter is using a lot of fuel fast. What do I do to adjust it? Thanks
Do some checks first. Make sure it's not leaking and that the float height isn't too high.
@@49ccscoot great thanks for the help and quick reply I will try this
These carbs are so cheap on eBay that there's no point in a rebuild kit, unless you happen to have one of the Mikuni carbs. Check out kaseaparts dot comm for a lot or replacement parts and I think they sell the carb parts or if it's not Mikuni just go on eBay and search Polaris 90 carb or something like that. Not all of the enrichers fit exactly the same. There's a chance the Yamaha enricher isn't right so it's always letting fuel by. Could just be jetted wrong too.
90GTVert, I have a 50cc with the carburetor that has the big silver headed carb that has the PZ-19 on it, the bolt is missing and I was wondering what that is for. Also When my scooter gets a bit warmer after starting it hesitates a lot when riding. It seams that if I throttle up and down really quickly it accelerates better, any ideas as to what I should look at?
Some carbs are simply cast sealed where that bolt is. Nothing to worry about unless you have an open path into the carb, in which case you must seal it.
First is to be sure the carb is clean. Then evaluate your tune. Figure out where the hesitation is happening (at what throttle positions). If you watch this series of vids it should explain the various settings and throttle positions. 0 up to 1/8-1/4 throttle issues = idle mixture/pilot jet, 1/8-1/4 up to 3/4 throttle = needle profile or clip position, 3/4 to WOT = main jet. There are more things, but those are most common.
*****
Thank you. I've watched all four and I have to agree with mikeonmicshow "Very well explained with patience and detail."
Thanks!
I'm helping a friend try and fix her carb on a TGB scooter that has a float bowl that's overflowing. The carb says Mikuni, but for the life of me I can't find the model and none of their float valves match up to this viton tipped one. It looks a LOT like this carb. Is it a knockoff Mikuni? Should I just not try to find a rebuild kit and just order one of these carbs off ebay and tune it?
This is a Mikuni knockoff. Unless a dealer can get you the part, replacing it is probably going to be the easy fix. Even on the clones some of the parts are similar but not quite the same so generally they get replaced if a cleaning can't save them.
help, my bike only runs decently on a low main jet where the plug is white. if I upjet my carb to get correct mixture my bike runs terrible. help please
+ItsTommmm Your plug could be too hot and not coloring or the runs may be too short to color it or maybe you should consider looking at the mixture ring if you're going to read plugs. Here's more tuning info : www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.html
thanks, i'll have a look
i have a yamaha razz 50cc and want to buy a new carb coz the stock one is worn out and leaks fuel. i dont know how to check the carb size. the manual doesnt show. how do i measure the carb size?
+abdulrahim fazal Measure the inside diameter of the carb on the intake/engine side.
got it. its a 12mm carb
I hope you can help me, (english isnt my language, so there will be some words that are spelled wrong.
I have a cpi GTR 50, 2 stroke.
The carburator is the same one you have! And the petcock, the flat end. My one is a dellorto 12 mm phv or sommething.
But i bought that cpi from a guy who had the bike sitting for 7-8 years. The rubber that is between the carburator and airfilter was cracked, so it got more air than needed. So i quickly fixed that, and now i dosnt have air leaks, i started and idle fine, but i couldnt still drive it, if i give it more than 50% gas it just goes back to idle or shuts off. (not a fuel problem by the way, the bike is stock and fuel jets) then i cleaned the carburator and putted it back together, and now it only start with some help from a carburator cleaner and idles High, for 1 second, and then shuts off. But before i cleaned the carburator it idle fine.
But i have to say this. The air adjustment screw is totally shot. U cant screw it in or out, i can see that the previos owner have messed with it. Do you think the problem is in the air adjustment screw?
Every other things checks out fine without air leaking thrue, like the rubber thing that holds the carburator or the rubber thing between the carburator or airfilter.
Thanks for your time, i had to write so much so you can understand easily.
Knowing that part of the carburetor is bad, I would replace the carburetor. If it's only the screw itself, then you could try to replace that. Don't bother if it's the body of the carb that is messed up.
Are these found in keeway scooters
Yeah, the ones with Minarelli clone (1E40QMB) engines should have the same type of carb.
Tks four your great video, just an question I have a Sym Fiddle version 1 from 1999 is have a stand carburetor I need to change the main jet up 10 a15% because I fit a 75cc cylinder Naraku soo I don't know the size the main jet the moment can you tell me Whitch size if you know and Whitch best size I can fit on four a good perfumance tks best regards: Berenguer
nice
Hi, my carburetor falls out of it's place when i hit a big pothole, so what can i do to prevent that?
Secure it is the simple answer. Kinda hard to know without seeing it. You can join the forum (49ccscoot.proboards.com) and post with pics if you'd like. Random guess, tighten clamps.
Well the proplem is it doesn't have clamps, i lost the air filter because it doesn't have clamps i looked everywhere and i couldn't find them, btw your vids are super helpful for me because i rebuilt the engine and it didn't start very easily i thought i did it wrong but turns out someone messed with the idle screw so that's why i couldn't start it when it's cold.
Yamaha dealers or somewhere like kaseaparts should have stock replacement clamps. The carb/intake clamp could be replaced with a common worm gear hose clamp in a pinch.
Thank you so much bro
Similar to the 2-stroke yamaha Zuma 50, correct?
Yes.
i dont think the nipple for my carb is taking oil. how can i tell for sure?
+Billy Joel If the engine has been running and it's getting no oil it should seize and the piston and rings and cylinder should all show obvious scuffing. You can do a bleed procedure to make sure the pump is working or premix some fuel to run the scoot with and let it run with the hose off in a container to be sure oil comes out. The check valve back there is a very simple ball and spring. My favorite way to deal with premix is to remove the pump, promptly toss it into a trash can, and premix my fuel and oil.
I have the same carburetor why is leaking from the air filter
Float height is my first guess.
Can u use a 49cc Chinese scooter carb on a 70cc ATV
If you're talking about one of the youth ATVs that has a Minarelli engine like the scoots, it should be pretty much a direct replacement. The carb should be tuned, but I'd want to tune it even getting a replacement right from the manufacturer.
Hi. I bougth a Benelli 2 stroke 50cc knew and the problem I'm facing it's the scooter it's hard to start. Sometimes it starts but the idle is so low that sometimes the enfgine dies. Sometimes to start it needs a little bit of throttle. The scooter was in the dealership one day and came with an high idle (2.000+) after warm. What it could be? The carburetor it's exactly the same in the right side when the video starts. I'd like to tune it myself but I don't know where to start at least the idle screw. The other screw I also leave it with 2 turns but what else needs to be done to have the scooter with best take off? The scooter also spents a lot of fuel!!! They told me that from factory the scooter came with two sizes of jet and they installed the bigger ones. Could be the source of all problems? The scooter it's all stock so...
nuno ribeiro It could be jetted wrong or need some other tuning or it could be something else. I'd start by watching the rest of these vids that show the idle mixture adjustment and other settings. Try the mixture adjustment and that may clear up you idle issues or at least improve them. There's also a simple trial and error tuning method that can be tried if you have a selection of jets. It's shown in the video in this link th-cam.com/video/K5j8gHg5kMc/w-d-xo.html . That is a four-stroke, but you can go through the same process with a 2T. If you can't seem to get it right and have lousy fuel consumption you may also want to make sure you have a good strong spark (blue/white and able to jump a large gap consistently) and be sure your reeds are sealing. You can remove the reed block and hold it up to light. If you see much light around the edges you can try flipping the reeds over or replacing them to see if they seal better. If reeds are damaged or don't seal well it will usually cause a rich condition.
I'll try that. The question here is that the scooter is new. The engine code seems the same you refer in your videos but I need to check. I'll tell them to install the smaller jet to see what appens.
Buying it new I'd expect the seller to provide a scooter in good working order without my input.
You are right. I'll go there and they have to install the smaller jet's and tune the carb.
How many turns do you recomend for a stock 50 2 stroke? Today I'll go there and at least I want the smaller jet's.
Is this the same carburetor as on an Yamaha Aerox 2014 R?
From what I see in a quick search it should be similar. Sorry, we don't even get the Aerox in the US. The Zumas here are all 4Ts for the last few years.
!what are those pins where the air filter goes pls help
Do you mean the little brass button in the mouth of the carb? Where you see holes in the inlet then there's one blocked off, or are you talking about something else?
Has anyone on here ever come across any problems with the auto choke on these carbs? I’m having trouble with my sons buzz 50 starts and runs but soon as you go to drive away it bogs down and cuts out. Won’t start again until you have switched the kill switch off and on again then it starts easy but cuts out shortly after.
Carbs clean and fuels flowing but I haven’t dealt with a auto choke before so could it be electrical?
The automatic enricher heats up and expands to cover a port and stop enrichment. If you can shut the engine off and then fire it right back up, it shouldn't be the enricher because it's state shouldn't change that much by cooling for a second or two. If there is a timelapse till it starts again, giving then enricher time to cool and contract, then you are probably on the right track.
@@49ccscoot brilliant explanation thank you for that. That kind of reply earns a sub all day long👍🏻I might need to give the carb another strip down then and a more intricate clean. It sat for a bit with fuel in the carb I wouldn’t of thought it was long enough to coz any trouble but the new fuel really does solidify quick so maybe I’ve got a jet blockage somewhere.
Thanks again
@@weebinniec If you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner, you may want to try that. I have had carbs that were cleaned thoroughly before and then worked after ultrasonic cleaning. It's not common, but easy enough if you have one around.
Need help taking mines off a ADLY atv 90cc
There's not a lot too it. Shut off fuel if not a vacuum petcock. Drain
the bowl (screw on bottom of bowl usually). Unscrew the cap and remove
the throttle cable (shown in one of these vids). Disconnect the fuel
hose and oil and vacuum hoses if you have them. Unplug the connector for
the electric choke. Then there should just be a clamp on the intake
holding the carb on. Once that's loose, it should come off.
90GTVert got the bottom off need help with the other part, thanks looking forward to seeing the video
th-cam.com/video/KXxxJrA5hNY/w-d-xo.html
90GTVert got it off , it's not worth cleaning do you know what size carb and where to get it ? It's for ADLY atv 90cc 2t
You can find tons of them searching something like Polaris 90 carb or Jog carb on eBay and just look at pics to make sure it's correct. Could go genuine and get a Mikuni VM16. Could buy a different carb like a Dellorto 19-21mm PHBG. Lots of options.
My fuel drain is draining fuel to much and when l start scooter it need to fill the bole it runs but dont want to rev after giving it gas after minut it start runing okey wants to rev, fuel consumption trow the roof
Please reply
It sounds like you need to check your float height. th-cam.com/video/xBCzVg4kUN0/w-d-xo.html
dangg this means i have a 14mm carb on my bws 100!😢
The good news is that a DellOrto PHBG 21mm is usually a pretty simple swap in place of the stock carb. No personal experience with the BWS100, but if the intake and airbox fit the same carb that I showed it should be easy enough and plenty of carb unless it's a high revving setup.
@1:25
Plz tell me
Answered on your original post. Gotta give me a little time... I do like to sleep occasionally.
Great videos.i have a 2001 polaris scrambler 90 I have been working on for my kids the plug cap pops off on its own ordered a ngk like you suggested.but I have trouble getting fuel to the carb cleaned the petcock out and tank installed new gas lines and had to put the old ones back on.with a fuel filter on after the bowl is empty it will not refill.i took the carb apart and cleaned it.i do not want to tune anything until I get the plug cap which should be tomorrow.i did not use tygon fuel line.
Great videos.i have a 2001 polaris scrambler 90 I have been working on for my kids the plug cap pops off on its own ordered a ngk like you suggested.but I have trouble getting fuel to the carb cleaned the petcock out and tank installed new gas lines and had to put the old ones back on.with a fuel filter on after the bowl is empty it will not refill.i took the carb apart and cleaned it.i do not want to tune anything until I get the plug cap which should be tomorrow.please help
help i hav a dinli 100cc that is running too rich, there's petrol mist coming out of the air intake when running how can I fix this, it also goes to die out from time to time then it will run fine for a while then trys to die again
help i hav a dinli 100cc that is running too rich, there's petrol mist coming out of the air intake when running how can I fix this, it also goes to die out from time to time then it will run fine for a while then trys to die again
help i hav a dinli 100cc that is running too rich, there's petrol mist coming out of the air intake when running how can I fix this, it also goes to die out from time to time then it will run fine for a while then trys to die again
+Chris Carr I'd go through a full tuning process like this : www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.html
I'd also recommend checking your reed valves prior to tuning.
+90GTVert thanks I'll give it a try