Great job on video! I would recommend using a peak adapter for dynamic testing of pulsar and CDI. More accurate readings. DVOM will provide inaccurate information leading to unnecessary repairs.
Absolutely the best I've found on you tube!! Thank you!! To add 3 weeks later, this vid helped me narrow down the no-spark issue I had on a Chinese youth ATV I acquired. It had a bad CDI box.
Excellent video & very well explained. After trying everything for 2 weeks your video helped me discover the problem in minutes. The pickup gap had simply become too large, so I bent it down as close as I could and it works perfect now. TIP: when replacing the stator make sure to set the gap right! I replaced it and had the same problem because the gap was still too large. Thank you very much!
Very helpful video. It helped me a lot. I had a bad connection in de green cable that I overlooked. The situation was that I had a unrestricted CDI that was working and an original, restricted CDI that was not working. My first conclusion was that the original CDI was defect but when I bought another one it had the same issue. The difference is that the unrestricted has a short circuit between ground and the sensor that is on the clutch to measure the speed. The sensor is a coil so the unrestricted did work because it used the ground through the coil. The restricted CDI has no short circuit between the speed coil pin and the ground pin so it did not work. When I watched the video I located the white connector with the green cable (ground) and it just fell apart. I soldered the green ground cable and all was good! All CDI’s work correctly now. Thx 4 the video.
hey I got the reverse problem, maybe you have some solution: I recently bought an unrestricted CDI and the scooter doesn't start with it (it is new and should work). It does start with the original one. I mailed the supplier and they said it might be the pickup not giving enough spark. Can it be something else?
@@cogitoergocogito5032 i do not think the pick-up is the issue. Check if you have a spark. If you have a spark then I think the timing must be off from the new CDI. Not much you can do about that I think. If you do not have a spark, the CDI is bad.
Yea! I think you are correct. I tried it on a good pickup today. you need at least 4 to 6 volts for noid lite. also looks like we are dealing with micro amps for current. Thanks for the reply!
Thank you for the help, the stator was exactly my problem. I had replaced the ignition coil, spark plug, and CDI internal circuitry until I watched this video. Learning how to check the stator was crucial. I found my stator was the problem, ordered a replacement from Amazon and that worked. Kids are off again terrorizing my neighborhood in their go-kart. Thank-you so much!
Dude you saved the day again, i was checking according to this video and i noticed there was no ground to the CDI, this is a honda 100cc horizontal engine, ohm readings in this one are very similar to yours Thanks
thanks guy ,you just helped me fix my 150cc kazuma ATV in afew min,first one I messed with and I ck the gap on the reluctor and it was wayyyyyy off and rusty.it would fire here and there and sometime it wouldn't start at all a hit and mis.but now I cleaned it and set it with a cc it fires everytime.thanks
Good video - most of what he went over I knew but it was interesting to see what values he was seeing voltage wise. I have a 2001 Yamaha ATV that will sometimes die - and typically backfire when it does. After 10 or 15 minutes it will normally start back up. I could not find anywhere what the voltages should be on the output of the pickup coil - or the input voltage to the CDI - or even how to really measure them. So I looked at the signals with an oscilliscope - this might be useful info for some . For the input voltage from the stator - that pretty much a sine wave (at least from my stator) so the VOM meter should read that pretty accurately. The pickup voltage it will not - it is not a sine wave - not even close. If you *know* what a VOM reading should read for a given engine - even though it not actually correct - that fine - it can be useful as a comparison. I did not have that info. The scope shows a +11VDC peak - goes to zero for a bit - than a -11VDC peak - goes back to zero for a bit. For a complete cycle the wave form is at zero voltage for perhaps 30 or 40 percent of the time. It no wonder a VOM will give no reading or very low reading on that type of non-sine wave. You can get a much more accurate reading if you connect a "Voltage Peak Reading Adapter" - VPA - to your meter - rmstator has one - on Amazon - it pricey - $50 - but you can also find that kind of adaptor for half of that easily on ebay. It converts a voltage (to DC) to closer to what the peak voltage is. For me the plus and minus 11V signal displays on my VOM (with the VPA in series) as 5.5VDC (cranking), 9VDC (idle), and 15VDC at hi RPM. You can also use the VDA and find a useful "baseline" voltage for the signal from the CDI to the coil. The oscilliscope shows a very short duration pulse from +5VDC to -12.5 - to fire the plug. A VOM by itself would not capture that pulse. Using the VPA with a VOM I got 2.5VDC cranking, 2.36VDC at idle, and 3.1VDC at hi RPM. RMSTATOR has a pretty detail troubleshoot guide using a VPA. I may have found my problem - may be the stator. Both 49ccscoot VOM reading for the stator voltage to the CDI input and what Rmstator says in their troubleshooting flowchart is WAY above what I'm seeing. Using just a VOM (the VPA is not really needed since what you are measuring it a sine way) I get 2.5VAC at idle - and amost 8VAC at hi RPMs. Way way below what scoot is seeing on his scooters.
This is a great video, succinct and to the point. I always start with cleaning up grounds so I know my other numbers are good but this is my first time dealing with exciter coils and pickup coils (magnetos). Keep up the great work!
Black/red is generally the exciter output. It's dedicated to providing power to the CDI on models with AC CDIs. White and yellow are charging and lighting outputs for the battery, headlights, auto-enricher etc...
TBH I'm not sure. The signal may come from the leading or trailing edge, so if you were to use a reluctor of a different length centered in the same position then it would change timing. Otherwise, not sure.
i have a 150cc that used to run ok and then the dash, made of fiberglass started to crack and dismember itself , causing certain switches that were mounted on them to falter and break off. I lost my headlight and was forced to splice inorder to get home one night. Well apparrantly the splice caused the battery to drain and because I have ran the splice from a hot black wire from the high bean switch, which was one of few still attached to the fiberglass surrounding the left handlebars. Well that just fucked everything up. Once I stopped that connection, I was forced to get jumps with cables, and everytime it seemed to take longer to get the motor started. I also noticed that the run off line from the carb floats was starting to really get bigger each time I was in need of starts. Now, with a fresh battery, spark still from the plug, this SOB wont turn over. I have taken the carb off 5 times to ensure the jets werent clogged, and that the floats were allowing fill up and when that occured , the gas was being shut off the flow to the carb. WTF did i do????
If it's not getting any fuel, then you may have a petcock problem (failed or lack of vacuum supply) or a pinched or clogged hose or filter. If it's getting gas, try checking compression. Valves need periodic adjustments too and when they're out of adjustment it often makes them hard to start. th-cam.com/video/s0K-ytyjOFg/w-d-xo.html
Your average everyday business card is ten thou thick. We use them in setting the coil gap on mowers ALL the time. oil filter boxes work too. or a matchbook... You know that particular weight of paper.
Nice tut. Do you have an idea of a good place to find oversights to various makes diameter and stack specs of ignition packs (backplates, flywheels, stators, breaker/switch and coils) ? I have a bit (!) of an old timer ignition custom upgrade invention project at hand and all I have found so far with the shop parts, are "compatibilities" for so and so vehicles. My hog´s so far beyond end production that I cant find neither parts or documentations. I need to find something amongst todays makes closest fits, I need oversights of geometrics... Heeelp ! :D
Man great vid I'll try this I have been charging my battery at the end of the day every day for the past month because if I don't some time the next day it will loss power I did not know were to start but thankx for the vid I'll start with this.
CandyFishRave This is not what you should be checking for charging issues. The exciter and pickup coils are for spark/ignition. Check these videos out for more help there : th-cam.com/video/AZbg-krvZM4/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/xS58b5jZ0ic/w-d-xo.html
49ccScoot my scooter doesnt turn off from the key, checked the ignition switch is good but the minus from the ignition is not (white and black) does not have continuity till the grey CDI
The CDI is ultimately what shuts off the spark, so if the CDI doesn't receive the signal to stop, then you will have to find out if you've got a wire disconnected or broken. Also make sure there is a good ground to the kill switch.
Do stator run in oil I have a suzuki gz250 street bike took the cover off oil came out,I read some run in oil keeps it cool,some say it doesn't thanks for the video
I recently bought a second hand 50cc gy6 and i'm having a strange electrical problem I think could be the stator. One headlight is brighter than the other on low beam, on high beam only the brighter headlight works. When side lights are selected the taillight is bright, when i switch to headlights the tail light dims to almost nothing. Finally today i noticed when idling on my commute I noticed if I turned my headlights on the idle would drop and stall the scooter if I didn't rev it. Could this be the stator or something else? thanks for looking.
Dim lights at idle and headlights affecting the idle (making it idle lower) are normal for the AC powered lighting systems. Adjusting the idle may help both. For the rest, I'd start with checking out the wiring. The lights probably have the same power source from the switch, so I wouldn't suspect the stator for uneven lighting levels.
Ok I've started looking over the wiring and opened up the wiring harness protective cover through the under seat area and there's a few wires spliced together then covered in black tape, is this Chinese build quality or something the previous owner has done you think? i'm going probably go to test the stator outputs from this video and your other video for the charging and lighting checks just for piece of mind in the mean time
no spark is usually bad cdi so try to borrow from any scooter atv snowmobile chainsaw that has similar looking cdi as for gy6 normal china scooter or replace it first. can also heat the cdi to fix it like in oven google it for temps and times.
Perhaps reason for having so many different specs is because different Chinese scooter manufacturers use different stators, got to find out what stator type was originally used on the scooter manual is for then you can map resistance values to that particular stator (not scooter). e.g. 49cc GY6 come with 3 types of stators that are easy to distinguish by looking at the connector type 1 has NO ground (green) wire, type 2 has ground (green) wire, type 3 has no ignition/cdi wire.
Good luck with that. I can tell you from personal experience that you find stators of the same style that are wrapped different. Some will fill each winding and some cheap out and leave room for more. When you've got that going on, it's gonna be real tough to find anything you can be sure is accurate.
The gap helped me immediately with brand new stator, cdi, regulator, starter...but only getting 21.4 volts when cranking on fully charged battery on a 125cc ducar engine. Any pointers? Bike fires up and runs after resetting pickup gap but is stator not up to snuff?
Scooter pickup coils should output anywhere from 1 - 10 VAC depending on RPM. You need to use a peak hold meter to see this. The meter you're using won't show this since the signal transitions are too brief to register correctly which is why you're getting a low reading.
hi, excellent video, i have 150gy6 (vento phr4) do you know how much watts does an 8-pole stator produce?? I am thinking of installing a set of 35w h4 lamps (70w total) and I don't know if the stator produces enough energy. How should I measure the output in watts of the stator?
90GTVert I don't get any spark from the coil . It try's to turn over but no spark.i tried changing the coil and Cdi and still nothing It's getting gas . The kill switch I believe works. It won't turn on with it off but try's to start when it's switched on ...
I have an ATV that only has a pickup coil . I got the same 145ohm reading at the wire butt conector . But once I connect it and check resistance at the CDI conector unplugged I get 4ohm . Is the wiring bad ? Also I crank the engine but get not voltage reading . Any help? Thank you!
Where does your Black/Red wire go to? I have both from stator. I have mate to CDI. (CDI > Blue/White - Blue/Yellow > Stator) On my CDI on the 2 PIN. I only have the bottom with Black coming out going to ignition.
@90GTvert I ended up purchasing a malossi over range kit bec my stock cvt was having too many slipping issues. I had a question for you, do I need a different stroke crank or anything else different to run the 103cc big bore kit on the 1e40qmb? Thanks again for your help
fastmalibu01 Yes. You need to use a crank with a 45mm stroke if you wish to get 103cc from a 54mm bore kit. It will take quite a bit of clearance work to fit the 90cc+ crank and cylinder onto stock 49cc cases unless you get lucky and have the 1E40FM or 1E40QMB-A that are sorta oddball engines. Lots of info : 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/10392/cutting-cases-accept-cranks-matching
For a spark plug, I always put in a new plug or known good plug. For wires, you can check resistance and make sure their connections are secure. Coil resistance specs should be in a service manual. The CDI is another swap out. I don't know of a way to test them without some special CDI tester.
The scooter I have has sat inside for a long time because it wouldn't start. Everyone says the cdi, the stator, bla bla bla... I went through all of that. Switches, stator, cdi, wiring... I did find some problems but when I got it to turn over finally, the starter would turn, then not turn, so I took it off to clean it and bench test it. The starter bearings were bad and sticking. It has sat for 5 years after 2 mechanics charged me to check out, told me it was cdi and stator... for a bad starter that not one mechanic ever mentioned to check or checked themselves. Sometimes it is a mechanical issue. Check the moving parts...lmfao
Thanks for the info. The bike im working on is a Qlink Axon50. It does not have a green ground wire coming off of the stator. Is it grounded to the motor? Also im getting continuity between the engine block and all wires coming from the stator. does this mean it has melted the wires the ground on the stator?
@@49ccscoot thanks for the reply. These Chinese brands are hard to find but I’m going to remove the coil and see if the wires were burned together and shorted.
I can understand the awareness of valves, but gosh dang, a week ago, it was running like a champ, driving Interstate 15 in Vegas to work n back.. So what's the reason why the float levels, when full, aren't delaying fuel from continuing, but yet I do a blow check , personally & when floats hit full, I cannot blow into intake of fuel line.
So you're asking why fuel continues to flow into the carb, I assume overfilling it, even though you can blow into the fuel inlet and it stops the airflow? Maybe the float height is set too high.
So Joey, if you were me and all you have witnessed is a constant cranking without the engine turning over, all though, knowing there is spark from an engine that less than a week ago was flying strong until vandalized,,,,, what would be your next move?? I am staring at the carb now, which I have taken off 6 times now and I am wondering is there something simple, like the needle valves not properly positioned, or is the idle screw not lowered enough ,,,, as to why its not turning over?? Should the butterfly valve be open on the idle screw as a pre start up [position and how far is the mix screw supposed to be?? I mean, am I flooding the carb so bad that its being choked?? SHIT MAN!
@@49ccscoot There is no kill switch and the ignition switch is new. I have noticed however that both terminal on the coil seem to go to ground on the continuity setting of my meter. I have several other coils and they all seem to do the same?
@@motorcyclejunkie7564 Find out which pin of the CDI uses a ground to switch between run/kill and see what it is doing. You'll need to find out if yours is ground to kill or ground to run.
Hello , nice tutorials , i myself into scooter tuning , but i was wondering , do you modify respecting road rules or to obtain a very fast scooter? Sorry i'm from europe and i don't know about traffic code there ..
+Talents Seeker Thanks. In the US each state has it's own laws regarding scooters. Some states you can legally be a 70cc and still be able to ride without a motorcycle license, some you can't pass 50cc. Speed limits vary, but most are 25-35MPH for a 50cc scooter. Some have HP limits. The main thing here is that there aren't tons of scooters in most areas like the rest of the world, so we don't have cops running around with mobile dynos or really cracking down... yet.
ahh ok , i understand now ;) Here in italy you can find a lot of modified scooters , not legal but cops here are not too strict xD Anyway would you like to see some videos of the fastest scooters from here ? If you'd like i could propose settings , just idk which brands you got in US
I watch vids from Europe somewhat regularly. Wish we had the crazy twin cylinder builds and that stuff here, but such a small portion of the population rides scooters, let alone heavily modifies them. A member of my forum did graft a 125cc dirtbike engine to a CVT and build a sprinter from the ground up though and drag race it. Not on the level of some of the stuff over there, but still doing ~80MPH in the 1/8 mile on a low budget. There are some high end Malossi/S6 builds at the NASRA (small US scooter racing organization) events, but it's just not on the level or scale of the Euro scene.
damn it's such a shame because i'msure US have a lot of potential in terms of number of people that could join and better building tools , you can anyway order from a retailer site here and deliver it there. You just need the same replacement we use and i'm sure you'll have an eu scooter
I don't think it helps that a lot of people think scooters are a joke here. Only for people that can't afford a car or have lost their license in some states. With gas being somewhat reasonably priced, cheap compared to Europe, and having so much open area (like for me it's 10 miles to much other than a gas station), people will continue to not take scooters seriously for a while to come.
Hey .. First i found your tube very helpful; But i still have no spark after i bought a new stator and pickup .. i got 75 volts from old and new stator. But for the life of me i can't get any juice thru the pickup . it has a good wire checked that out. but no voltage . I even opened the mounting holes to move closer to the reluctant magnet, .015 close as i can get. seems they like to have at .030. but closer would be better . After installing a new stator and p/u and still no voltage , i have to believe the new p/u is NO good. PLEASE HELP Denny
Do both the new and old stators give you nothing on the pickup? If the pickup on the old one will show voltage, you could swap it to the new stator or just use the old one since it's giving you plenty of voltage from the exciter coil. You can get pickups alone for roughly $5 online. th-cam.com/video/XR-cYzh2__Y/w-d-xo.html
Nope not all have continuity test. I'm working on one where the owners multi meter doesn't have continuity. It has AC and DC volts DC current ohms and diode test. I had to use my fluke which has that and additional testing for transistor and capacitance and coil.
Not to the rectifier/regulator. To the CDI for a trigger signal. You can watch this happen with a voltmeter. It has nothing to do with charging/lighting.
I have a genuine buddy 50cc that ran fine and lost spark. The black and red wire from the stator is showing 40 volts, the pickup coil is showing 0.34 volts. still not sure if I should order a new stator.
Get a manual and check the coil according to specs. Try a new spark plug. If you have a spare CDI, try it. Make sure there is no ground on the kill wire when the key is on. If there is, you may have a faulty ign or kill switch.
It's possible. If it has a strong spark (jumps a large gap like and HEI or adjustable tester or an old plug with the ground strap bent back) then I don't tend to focus on the ignition, but it could be timing related. Try holding the throttle different ways and see if it will fire then. If it gets flooded, holding it WOT will help. Sometimes I'll take the spark plug out and spray in a little carb cleaner or a couple drops of gas. Lately I've just been using an unlit propane torch in the airbox inlet to see if it will fire with a little extra fuel.
How can I tell if my scooter was supposed to have a DC or AC cdi? Previous owners changed a bunch of stuff around and they had no clue what they were doing...
Depends how much it's modded. Worst case, you'd have to try to find out from a manual or someone else with that make/model/year. Otherwise, if the stator has an exciter coil to charge the CDI then it should be AC. If the CDI is getting power via the battery then it is DC. DC CDIs tend to be large compared to AC.
@@49ccscoot it's bone stock. It has a dc cdi on it right now but they changed it. The messed the wiring up because none of the lights work. But I've heard that dc scooters don't have regulators because it's built into the cdi. And also the right plug only has 1 wire on DC setups. But mine has 2. The power to the headlights/rectifier goes up with throttle so that would make it a AC scoot wouldn't it?
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoXYzQ61tRM/mqdefault.jpg)
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](/img/tr.png)
![GY6 AC vs DC Stator/CDI [ How does it work? What is best? ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oKtFJaJh_kw/mqdefault.jpg)
Great job on video! I would recommend using a peak adapter for dynamic testing of pulsar and CDI. More accurate readings. DVOM will provide inaccurate information leading to unnecessary repairs.
Absolutely the best I've found on you tube!! Thank you!!
To add 3 weeks later, this vid helped me narrow down the no-spark issue I had on a Chinese youth ATV I acquired.
It had a bad CDI box.
So glad I found this video, I never considered pickup gap and you never hear anyone talking about a good ground. Great video, very clear and concise!
Great video, thumbed up and wish I could rate 5stars
Excellent video & very well explained. After trying everything for 2 weeks your video helped me discover the problem in minutes. The pickup gap had simply become too large, so I bent it down as close as I could and it works perfect now.
TIP: when replacing the stator make sure to set the gap right! I replaced it and had the same problem because the gap was still too large. Thank you very much!
Very helpful video. It helped me a lot. I had a bad connection in de green cable that I overlooked. The situation was that I had a unrestricted CDI that was working and an original, restricted CDI that was not working. My first conclusion was that the original CDI was defect but when I bought another one it had the same issue. The difference is that the unrestricted has a short circuit between ground and the sensor that is on the clutch to measure the speed. The sensor is a coil so the unrestricted did work because it used the ground through the coil. The restricted CDI has no short circuit between the speed coil pin and the ground pin so it did not work. When I watched the video I located the white connector with the green cable (ground) and it just fell apart. I soldered the green ground cable and all was good! All CDI’s work correctly now. Thx 4 the video.
hey I got the reverse problem, maybe you have some solution: I recently bought an unrestricted CDI and the scooter doesn't start with it (it is new and should work). It does start with the original one. I mailed the supplier and they said it might be the pickup not giving enough spark. Can it be something else?
@@cogitoergocogito5032 i do not think the pick-up is the issue. Check if you have a spark. If you have a spark then I think the timing must be off from the new CDI. Not much you can do about that I think. If you do not have a spark, the CDI is bad.
@@citroenraspdideveed9243 thank you so much for your reply
This is one of the best channels ever.
This is the best video that I've found. Easy to follow. Good job !!
Yea! I think you are correct. I tried it on a good pickup today. you need at least 4 to 6 volts for noid lite. also looks like we are dealing with micro amps for current. Thanks for the reply!
Thank you for the help, the stator was exactly my problem. I had replaced the ignition coil, spark plug, and CDI internal circuitry until I watched this video. Learning how to check the stator was crucial. I found my stator was the problem, ordered a replacement from Amazon and that worked. Kids are off again terrorizing my neighborhood in their go-kart. Thank-you so much!
Glad it helped and the neighborhood is no longer safe! lol
Dude you saved the day again, i was checking according to this video and i noticed there was no ground to the CDI, this is a honda 100cc horizontal engine, ohm readings in this one are very similar to yours
Thanks
Glad you got it figured out.
thanks guy ,you just helped me fix my 150cc kazuma ATV in afew min,first one I messed with and I ck the gap on the reluctor and it was wayyyyyy off and rusty.it would fire here and there and sometime it wouldn't start at all a hit and mis.but now I cleaned it and set it with a cc it fires everytime.thanks
Glad to help!
Good video - most of what he went over I knew but it was interesting to see what values he was seeing voltage wise. I have a 2001 Yamaha ATV that will sometimes die - and typically backfire when it does. After 10 or 15 minutes it will normally start back up. I could not find anywhere what the voltages should be on the output of the pickup coil - or the input voltage to the CDI - or even how to really measure them. So I looked at the signals with an oscilliscope - this might be useful info for some . For the input voltage from the stator - that pretty much a sine wave (at least from my stator) so the VOM meter should read that pretty accurately. The pickup voltage it will not - it is not a sine wave - not even close. If you *know* what a VOM reading should read for a given engine - even though it not actually correct - that fine - it can be useful as a comparison. I did not have that info. The scope shows a +11VDC peak - goes to zero for a bit - than a -11VDC peak - goes back to zero for a bit. For a complete cycle the wave form is at zero voltage for perhaps 30 or 40 percent of the time. It no wonder a VOM will give no reading or very low reading on that type of non-sine wave. You can get a much more accurate reading if you connect a "Voltage Peak Reading Adapter" - VPA - to your meter - rmstator has one - on Amazon - it pricey - $50 - but you can also find that kind of adaptor for half of that easily on ebay. It converts a voltage (to DC) to closer to what the peak voltage is. For me the plus and minus 11V signal displays on my VOM (with the VPA in series) as 5.5VDC (cranking), 9VDC (idle), and 15VDC at hi RPM. You can also use the VDA and find a useful "baseline" voltage for the signal from the CDI to the coil. The oscilliscope shows a very short duration pulse from +5VDC to -12.5 - to fire the plug. A VOM by itself would not capture that pulse. Using the VPA with a VOM I got 2.5VDC cranking, 2.36VDC at idle, and 3.1VDC at hi RPM. RMSTATOR has a pretty detail troubleshoot guide using a VPA. I may have found my problem - may be the stator. Both 49ccscoot VOM reading for the stator voltage to the CDI input and what Rmstator says in their troubleshooting flowchart is WAY above what I'm seeing. Using just a VOM (the VPA is not really needed since what you are measuring it a sine way) I get 2.5VAC at idle - and amost 8VAC at hi RPMs. Way way below what scoot is seeing on his scooters.
good camera work, good audio, good explanations. nice job !
Thanks!
Just wanted to say thank you very much for the step-by-step tutorial it was super useful
Great video! Very informative... no other videos ever mention the gap... I almost replaced my stator until I watched this. I'm so thankful
This is a great video, succinct and to the point. I always start with cleaning up grounds so I know my other numbers are good but this is my first time dealing with exciter coils and pickup coils (magnetos). Keep up the great work!
Thank You, I finally found the cause of my no spark from this video.
Thank you. clear and concise without all the hype.
Thanks.
Best service presentation ever
Great video , thanks . Do you know what the levels are for the white and yellow and the differences between white , yellow , black/red . Thank you
Black/red is generally the exciter output. It's dedicated to providing power to the CDI on models with AC CDIs. White and yellow are charging and lighting outputs for the battery, headlights, auto-enricher etc...
hi thx ,tested solenoid , it's bad ,I got a new replacement. will test today.
does the length of the reluctor affects the ignition timing? or the signal sent to the cdi?
TBH I'm not sure. The signal may come from the leading or trailing edge, so if you were to use a reluctor of a different length centered in the same position then it would change timing. Otherwise, not sure.
Thank you very much for this tutorial! Best regards from Ukraine!!
That was a very good tutorial on how to do this. Thank you!
Great info and presented well. Thank you
Thanks that was very informative I will use the information to get this Chinese atv started
very useful, i needed to kow what kind of voltage to expect from the pickup for my yamaha motorcycle
i have a 150cc that used to run ok and then the dash, made of fiberglass started to crack and dismember itself , causing certain switches that were mounted on them to falter and break off. I lost my headlight and was forced to splice inorder to get home one night. Well apparrantly the splice caused the battery to drain and because I have ran the splice from a hot black wire from the high bean switch, which was one of few still attached to the fiberglass surrounding the left handlebars.
Well that just fucked everything up. Once I stopped that connection, I was forced to get jumps with cables, and everytime it seemed to take longer to get the motor started. I also noticed that the run off line from the carb floats was starting to really get bigger each time I was in need of starts.
Now, with a fresh battery, spark still from the plug, this SOB wont turn over. I have taken the carb off 5 times to ensure the jets werent clogged, and that the floats were allowing fill up and when that occured , the gas was being shut off the flow to the carb.
WTF did i do????
If it's not getting any fuel, then you may have a petcock problem (failed or lack of vacuum supply) or a pinched or clogged hose or filter. If it's getting gas, try checking compression. Valves need periodic adjustments too and when they're out of adjustment it often makes them hard to start.
th-cam.com/video/s0K-ytyjOFg/w-d-xo.html
Should I have continuity between the yellow and white wire coming from stator?
Your average everyday business card is ten thou thick.
We use them in setting the coil gap on mowers ALL the time.
oil filter boxes work too. or a matchbook... You know that particular weight of paper.
this was helpful gonna try it now. thank you
Very nice video!
Nice tut.
Do you have an idea of a good place to find oversights to various makes diameter and stack specs of ignition packs (backplates, flywheels, stators, breaker/switch and coils) ?
I have a bit (!) of an old timer ignition custom upgrade invention project at hand and all I have found so far with the shop parts, are "compatibilities" for so and so vehicles.
My hog´s so far beyond end production that I cant find neither parts or documentations. I need to find something amongst todays makes closest fits, I need oversights of geometrics... Heeelp ! :D
Sounds like that would be a useful resource... but I have no idea where you'd find that. Sorry.
Thanks for your sharing knowledge!
Man great vid I'll try this I have been charging my battery at the end of the day every day for the past month because if I don't some time the next day it will loss power I did not know were to start but thankx for the vid I'll start with this.
CandyFishRave This is not what you should be checking for charging issues. The exciter and pickup coils are for spark/ignition. Check these videos out for more help there :
th-cam.com/video/AZbg-krvZM4/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/xS58b5jZ0ic/w-d-xo.html
Thanks 👍 for the info 👍
Good explanation
Thanks a lot
fabulous video..no ego just plain facts...thank you
Great video, good and stable camera, very fine description, thank you
Best explained video,good on man.from Ireland.
49ccScoot my scooter doesnt turn off from the key, checked the ignition switch is good but the minus from the ignition is not (white and black) does not have continuity till the grey CDI
The CDI is ultimately what shuts off the spark, so if the CDI doesn't receive the signal to stop, then you will have to find out if you've got a wire disconnected or broken. Also make sure there is a good ground to the kill switch.
Thank you so much! I found what I'm looking for.
Very very nicely done. Thank you.
Very informative and helpful. 👍
Do I hear Nicolas Cage?
;-)
Good explanation
Do stator run in oil I have a suzuki gz250 street bike took the cover off oil came out,I read some run in oil keeps it cool,some say it doesn't thanks for the video
Some run in oil and some don't. All of the smaller stuff that I'm used to is dry, but I'm not familiar with the GZ250.
Good vid. I have a Suzuki Z50 kids quad. It starts, runs lovely until you rev it. No power and very slow. Could this be the pick up?
It's possible. Could also be something like a clogged main jet.
Very informative video. Thanks
is it normal to have overload on the exciter coil on VAC? or is it just a bad stator?
I recently bought a second hand 50cc gy6 and i'm having a strange electrical problem I think could be the stator. One headlight is brighter than the other on low beam, on high beam only the brighter headlight works. When side lights are selected the taillight is bright, when i switch to headlights the tail light dims to almost nothing. Finally today i noticed when idling on my commute I noticed if I turned my headlights on the idle would drop and stall the scooter if I didn't rev it. Could this be the stator or something else? thanks for looking.
Dim lights at idle and headlights affecting the idle (making it idle
lower) are normal for the AC powered lighting systems. Adjusting the
idle may help both. For the rest, I'd start with checking out the
wiring. The lights probably have the same power source from the switch,
so I wouldn't suspect the stator for uneven lighting levels.
Ok I've started looking over the wiring and opened up the wiring harness protective cover through the under seat area and there's a few wires spliced together then covered in black tape, is this Chinese build quality or something the previous owner has done you think? i'm going probably go to test the stator outputs from this video and your other video for the charging and lighting checks just for piece of mind in the mean time
Thank you so much for this video
Thanks for watching! Glad if it helped.
no spark is usually bad cdi so try to borrow from any scooter atv snowmobile chainsaw that has similar looking cdi as for gy6 normal china scooter or replace it first. can also heat the cdi to fix it like in oven google it for temps and times.
Perhaps reason for having so many different specs is because different Chinese scooter manufacturers use different stators, got to find out what stator type was originally used on the scooter manual is for then you can map resistance values to that particular stator (not scooter). e.g. 49cc GY6 come with 3 types of stators that are easy to distinguish by looking at the connector type 1 has NO ground (green) wire, type 2 has ground (green) wire, type 3 has no ignition/cdi wire.
Good luck with that. I can tell you from personal experience that you find stators of the same style that are wrapped different. Some will fill each winding and some cheap out and leave room for more. When you've got that going on, it's gonna be real tough to find anything you can be sure is accurate.
That's why i love chinese scooter
Thanks for the info
The gap helped me immediately with brand new stator, cdi, regulator, starter...but only getting 21.4 volts when cranking on fully charged battery on a 125cc ducar engine. Any pointers? Bike fires up and runs after resetting pickup gap but is stator not up to snuff?
If it runs and you aren't experiencing misfires or low power, then it should be fine.
What if i have a DC system and the pickup coil has 2 wires coming from it?? How do I do the voltage test on that??
You may need to do a resistance check on that.
Great knowledge
When you are checking the ac voltage, what are you connecting the leads to
One to ground and one to whatever wire you want to check the voltage on.
@@49ccscoot ok thank you, I wasnt sure if it went to common, ground or across
Another good vid Brent
TheAmishSasquatch Thanks!
Scooter pickup coils should output anywhere from 1 - 10 VAC depending on RPM. You need to use a peak hold meter to see this. The meter you're using won't show this since the signal transitions are too brief to register correctly which is why you're getting a low reading.
Great Video! Thanks!
Could a bad stator lead to random engine cutoffs/engine cutoff while barely giving throttle?
It's possible. Anything in the ignition system could.
hi, excellent video, i have 150gy6 (vento phr4) do you know how much watts does an 8-pole stator produce?? I am thinking of installing a set of 35w h4 lamps (70w total) and I don't know if the stator produces enough energy. How should I measure the output in watts of the stator?
great info thanks ... everything checks out but still no spark
There's still the coil, CDI, and spark plug... as well as kill switches.
90GTVert I don't get any spark from the coil . It try's to turn over but no spark.i tried changing the coil and Cdi and still nothing It's getting gas . The kill switch I believe works. It won't turn on with it off but try's to start when it's switched on ...
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/647/start-troubleshooting?page=1&scrollTo=8057
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/4666/easy-guide-spark-condtions
I have an ATV that only has a pickup coil . I got the same 145ohm reading at the wire butt conector . But once I connect it and check resistance at the CDI conector unplugged I get 4ohm . Is the wiring bad ? Also I crank the engine but get not voltage reading . Any help? Thank you!
Where does your Black/Red wire go to? I have both from stator. I have mate to CDI. (CDI > Blue/White - Blue/Yellow > Stator) On my CDI on the 2 PIN. I only have the bottom with Black coming out going to ignition.
Black/red is the exciter coil's output to the CDI to charge it. Usually it goes to a red/black or black/red wire.
Great video thanks for this good information
do you know what kind of amps a pickup coil puts out? I am wondering if a node light may work for a pickup test.
No idea what kind of amps the pickup may output. I think you're better off with a multimeter than a noid light.
Great Video. THANK YOUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU!!! This helped a LOT!!!
Glad it helped!
How long do you let the copper spay set and dry when you spay the gaskets
+marc ~1min
Thanks for uploading. I love TH-cam so much😁
@90GTvert I ended up purchasing a malossi over range kit bec my stock cvt was having too many slipping issues. I had a question for you, do I need a different stroke crank or anything else different to run the 103cc big bore kit on the 1e40qmb? Thanks again for your help
fastmalibu01 Yes. You need to use a crank with a 45mm stroke if you wish to get 103cc from a 54mm bore kit. It will take quite a bit of clearance work to fit the 90cc+ crank and cylinder onto stock 49cc cases unless you get lucky and have the 1E40FM or 1E40QMB-A that are sorta oddball engines. Lots of info :
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/10392/cutting-cases-accept-cranks-matching
I'm getting zero AC voltage and zero continuity on the Red and Black wire. The Blue and White are in spec. Will this cause a no spark condition?
Red and black is the exciter coil. That's what gives the CDI the power to make a spark. If it's not putting anything out, it can't make spark.
@@49ccscoot Thank you
So i have power on the pick up and resistance. And power from the stator. Does this mean it must be cdi? How do I test spark plugs or leads
For a spark plug, I always put in a new plug or known good plug. For wires, you can check resistance and make sure their connections are secure. Coil resistance specs should be in a service manual. The CDI is another swap out. I don't know of a way to test them without some special CDI tester.
Hi I measured 118 ohm on the cable from the pickupare these measurements normal?
Great video! So well explained, thumbs up bro!
Learn alot, thank you, best video I seen on checking the stator, God bless
Great job. Great explanation.
The scooter I have has sat inside for a long time because it wouldn't start. Everyone says the cdi, the stator, bla bla bla...
I went through all of that. Switches, stator, cdi, wiring... I did find some problems but when I got it to turn over finally, the starter would turn, then not turn, so I took it off to clean it and bench test it. The starter bearings were bad and sticking.
It has sat for 5 years after 2 mechanics charged me to check out, told me it was cdi and stator... for a bad starter that not one mechanic ever mentioned to check or checked themselves.
Sometimes it is a mechanical issue.
Check the moving parts...lmfao
Thank you .
Thanks for the info. The bike im working on is a Qlink Axon50. It does not have a green ground wire coming off of the stator. Is it grounded to the motor? Also im getting continuity between the engine block and all wires coming from the stator. does this mean it has melted the wires the ground on the stator?
Some don't use a ground wire. You'll need to see if you can find specs for that model. There are different configurations of stators.
@@49ccscoot thanks for the reply. These Chinese brands are hard to find but I’m going to remove the coil and see if the wires were burned together and shorted.
Did you maybe try to put universal CDI on piaggio 125cc 2006 and what tipe? I appreciate any help.
Sorry. Never worked with any Piaggios. Someone on the forum may be able to help you. 49ccscoot.proboards.com
90GTVert ok.thanks anyway. You helped me to understand the sistem. Have a nice weakened:)
Thank God for you. This is helping me so much
I can understand the awareness of valves, but gosh dang, a week ago, it was running like a champ, driving Interstate 15 in Vegas to work n back..
So what's the reason why the float levels, when full, aren't delaying fuel from continuing, but yet I do a blow check , personally & when floats hit full, I cannot blow into intake of fuel line.
So you're asking why fuel continues to flow into the carb, I assume overfilling it, even though you can blow into the fuel inlet and it stops the airflow? Maybe the float height is set too high.
So Joey, if you were me and all you have witnessed is a constant cranking without the engine turning over, all though, knowing there is spark from an engine that less than a week ago was flying strong until vandalized,,,,, what would be your next move?? I am staring at the carb now, which I have taken off 6 times now and I am wondering is there something simple, like the needle valves not properly positioned, or is the idle screw not lowered enough ,,,, as to why its not turning over??
Should the butterfly valve be open on the idle screw as a pre start up [position and how far is the mix screw supposed to be?? I mean, am I flooding the carb so bad that its being choked?? SHIT MAN!
I gave you a like..and I subscribed myself
Done all these checks. Getting 1 - 2 volts at pickup. No spark. Checked gap, replaced pickup, stator, CDI and coil. Still no spark! What else is left?
Check the ignition switch and kill switch. Perhaps they are disabling the ignition.
@@49ccscoot There is no kill switch and the ignition switch is new. I have noticed however that both terminal on the coil seem to go to ground on the continuity setting of my meter. I have several other coils and they all seem to do the same?
@@motorcyclejunkie7564 Find out which pin of the CDI uses a ground to switch between run/kill and see what it is doing. You'll need to find out if yours is ground to kill or ground to run.
@@49ccscoot Thanks, I'll take a look
dio af 18 bick ake speed gear well akath solution akak denna puluwan da akath hariyana akak hari ka manna
Hello , nice tutorials , i myself into scooter tuning , but i was wondering , do you modify respecting road rules or to obtain a very fast scooter? Sorry i'm from europe and i don't know about traffic code there ..
+Talents Seeker Thanks. In the US each state has it's own laws regarding scooters. Some states you can legally be a 70cc and still be able to ride without a motorcycle license, some you can't pass 50cc. Speed limits vary, but most are 25-35MPH for a 50cc scooter. Some have HP limits. The main thing here is that there aren't tons of scooters in most areas like the rest of the world, so we don't have cops running around with mobile dynos or really cracking down... yet.
ahh ok , i understand now ;) Here in italy you can find a lot of modified scooters , not legal but cops here are not too strict xD Anyway would you like to see some videos of the fastest scooters from here ? If you'd like i could propose settings , just idk which brands you got in US
I watch vids from Europe somewhat regularly. Wish we had the crazy twin cylinder builds and that stuff here, but such a small portion of the population rides scooters, let alone heavily modifies them. A member of my forum did graft a 125cc dirtbike engine to a CVT and build a sprinter from the ground up though and drag race it. Not on the level of some of the stuff over there, but still doing ~80MPH in the 1/8 mile on a low budget. There are some high end Malossi/S6 builds at the NASRA (small US scooter racing organization) events, but it's just not on the level or scale of the Euro scene.
damn it's such a shame because i'msure US have a lot of potential in terms of number of people that could join and better building tools , you can anyway order from a retailer site here and deliver it there. You just need the same replacement we use and i'm sure you'll have an eu scooter
I don't think it helps that a lot of people think scooters are a joke here. Only for people that can't afford a car or have lost their license in some states. With gas being somewhat reasonably priced, cheap compared to Europe, and having so much open area (like for me it's 10 miles to much other than a gas station), people will continue to not take scooters seriously for a while to come.
Low pick up signal is giving low spark output or no out put, ?
Most likely no output or intermediate output (missing).
@@49ccscoot Thanks,
Did the voltage test on the pickup wire and it has 0 volts. Is this a bad stator?
If it's done as shown, then very likely yes. Make sure there's nothing else going on like a cut wire or ground missing.
do the web site have Honda click manuals for phillpine scooter let me know thank
Great video. thanks
Great job. Thanks for the help
Hey .. First i found your tube very helpful; But i still have no spark after i bought a new stator and pickup .. i got 75 volts from old and new stator. But for the life of me i can't get any juice thru the pickup . it has a good wire checked that out. but no voltage . I even opened the mounting holes to move closer to the reluctant magnet, .015 close as i can get. seems they like to have at .030. but closer would be better . After installing a new stator and p/u and still no voltage , i have to believe the new p/u is NO good. PLEASE HELP Denny
Do both the new and old stators give you nothing on the pickup? If the pickup on the old one will show voltage, you could swap it to the new stator or just use the old one since it's giving you plenty of voltage from the exciter coil. You can get pickups alone for roughly $5 online.
th-cam.com/video/XR-cYzh2__Y/w-d-xo.html
Turns out the kick stand needs to be up for spark! Who would have thought. Thx Denny
thx denny
Nope not all have continuity test. I'm working on one where the owners multi meter doesn't have continuity. It has AC and DC volts DC current ohms and diode test. I had to use my fluke which has that and additional testing for transistor and capacitance and coil.
Thanks
The CLOSER the gap from pick up/reluctor gap THROWS more electric(a/c) to RECTIFIER? the wider GAP lessen the AC throw?
Not to the rectifier/regulator. To the CDI for a trigger signal. You can watch this happen with a voltmeter. It has nothing to do with charging/lighting.
Oowww sorry i forgot the cdi. So i need to see 50VAC to 59VAC? at .015 inch?
Whatever the distance, you want to see around 0.5VAC from the pickup or more and 50VAC or more from the others.
I have a genuine buddy 50cc that ran fine and lost spark. The black and red wire from the stator is showing 40 volts, the pickup coil is showing
0.34 volts. still not sure if I should order a new stator.
Get a manual and check the coil according to specs. Try a new spark plug. If you have a spare CDI, try it. Make sure there is no ground on the kill wire when the key is on. If there is, you may have a faulty ign or kill switch.
problem atv, have new spark plug and spark,compression good and fuel, engine cranking but wont start
can the CDI be the problem?
It's possible. If it has a strong spark (jumps a large gap like and HEI or adjustable tester or an old plug with the ground strap bent back) then I don't tend to focus on the ignition, but it could be timing related. Try holding the throttle different ways and see if it will fire then. If it gets flooded, holding it WOT will help. Sometimes I'll take the spark plug out and spray in a little carb cleaner or a couple drops of gas. Lately I've just been using an unlit propane torch in the airbox inlet to see if it will fire with a little extra fuel.
How can I tell if my scooter was supposed to have a DC or AC cdi? Previous owners changed a bunch of stuff around and they had no clue what they were doing...
Depends how much it's modded. Worst case, you'd have to try to find out from a manual or someone else with that make/model/year. Otherwise, if the stator has an exciter coil to charge the CDI then it should be AC. If the CDI is getting power via the battery then it is DC. DC CDIs tend to be large compared to AC.
@@49ccscoot it's bone stock. It has a dc cdi on it right now but they changed it. The messed the wiring up because none of the lights work. But I've heard that dc scooters don't have regulators because it's built into the cdi. And also the right plug only has 1 wire on DC setups. But mine has 2. The power to the headlights/rectifier goes up with throttle so that would make it a AC scoot wouldn't it?