Thank's a lot,this really clears things up for me on a Dellorto carb I was having trouble adjusting,just wasn't sure why the idle wouldn't come down after a rev,now i get it.
yes they usually do so at two beats but if you hear that when he unscrews they actually sound like he is getting too much fuel and vice versa. they might be a 4 stroke carburetor sitting on
Hello, I have a problem, I have a Peugeot Speedfight 1 100cc that recently seized up/heat seized. It was not tuned. I then changed the cylinder, piston etc. It now starts up right away, but after a while it dies all of a sudden (as if you had turned off the key) and then I can start it right up again, this usually happens when I go over 60 km/h or uphill. When I changed the cylinder etc, I also cleaned everything thoroughly, such as the carburettor, intake, new air filter, new fuel filter (there was no fuel filter before) new spark plug. I also removed the oil pump and put a metalplate with a gasket over the hole instead, I now mix the oil directly into the gasoline. Some other info that might be important. - When I drive over 60 km/h, it starts to make a noise from the variator (CVT), it´s sounds quite a lot. - When it died, I tried to start it again while it was rolling and then it started right away, but it made a noise from the variator, like something "let go" that had been seized up, like a rubber sound, maybe from the belt. - The variator belt touches the variator cover on the inside and has grinded a cut in the metal. - In the variator, where the weights are, the belt does not go down to the bottom of the wheel. - The clutch bell had turned blue from the heat. - The place where the connecting rod attaches to the crankshaft had turned blue from heat. - There was no fuel filter on it before. But i now saw there is an internal fuel filter in the gastank, can it affect the vacuum if you now have 2 fuel filters.
2 strokes are so annoying to set up I have the idle perfect when it’s hot but it’s hard to keep running when cold as the idle is lower I can’t seem to get a perfect balance on it unfortunately guess I’ll just stick to blipping throttle when cold
Lol so true, my rs 125 starts immediately and idles well until it's below like 10 then it needs full choke then at 3-4 degree it does not start. Now trying to use it in the early morning in the uk is fun
I have this problem and don't know how to adjust them properly. Atm mine goes grear up to 10/h but when I give gas it goes slower and if I gave more gas it dies... please help😢
Dude that sounds pretty off par all the way through my thoughts you need to learn it up by 1 quarter to on half turn then play with idle screw sounds much cleaner there's also a differance when under throttle been ridden just my opinion I think your a bit of par there decelerating you should always have a slight slowness to to deceleration not bam straight down I believe your happy medium is slight,y ascew just my opinion mind you what size engine are you working with for a start
Don't listen to this guy at all.. he's got them backwards... Your idle screw (witch u can tell easily when it's off by screwing it all the way in or out and seeing that it moves your needle in the center.. this screw will always located center of needle) and your mixer screw will always be on the outer side.. this will control air mixer all the way in will shut off air, all the way out will increase air flow.. mixer screw will never move the needle in any way.. also.. if u notice that your mixer screw runs best all the way out and is alittle loose then u need to replace your pilot jet by one step down.. same vise versa.. if it's all the way and runs best with no air you need to move to a bigger pilot jet... Your welcome...
I do have to say though he does explain what the bike does in a good lamens terms . For beginners you should def note that.. but understand he's not changing the mixer screw he's changing the idle screw... Easiest way to note this is by taking the carb off and watching the needle move, or just seeing that that screw actually aligns with the needle housing..
Are you familiar with these carbs Aaron? Seems that we are all wrong about the screw positions, even Dellorto who make them. We all bow to your greater knowledge. www.49ccscoot.com/pics/90ccExperiment/454.jpg
Think i have an issue with the idle screw... I can screw it out all the way... does nothing... if I screw clockwise all the way then it starts to increase rpm.. it's a phb21 ... think it's not ok calibrated. Thank you for your answer.
Thank's a lot,this really clears things up for me on a Dellorto carb I was having trouble adjusting,just wasn't sure why the idle wouldn't come down after a rev,now i get it.
Mate love this video tuning my 172 zip been a bloomin headache this video made it much much easier
Thanks. Great video. Crystal clear. Gets it drummed into the noggin easier.
Glad it helped!
Best vid on this subject to date, big thanks Sticky!! I'd be keen to learn more about that powerjet set up too...
Nice video buddy. Very clear and simple instruction.
most excellent vid - less is more comes to mind, a 2 smoker can tell you whats wrong if you just listen :)
Thank you so much for this ! amazing. All this has to be done with the engine fully warm right? maybe after a ride?
Yes very important the bike is up to temp already!
No you're right it has to be done when it's cold
Cheers,best vid,and I’m a dirt biker !...
when u turn out the air screw u make the mixture leaner not richer.if cant adjust it properly then try different angle needles.
yes they usually do so at two beats but if you hear that when he unscrews they actually sound like he is getting too much fuel and vice versa. they might be a 4 stroke carburetor sitting on
Yes but this is a mixture screw, not an air screw. The operation is the opposite and the video explains that.
Good description of this. Does that screw ever come loose with vibrations? It seems very easy to turn?
Springs
Hi on my gurtner carb you turn it right towards fuel and left for air nor the other way round
Hello, I have a problem, I have a Peugeot Speedfight 1 100cc that recently seized up/heat seized. It was not tuned. I then changed the cylinder, piston etc. It now starts up right away, but after a while it dies all of a sudden (as if you had turned off the key) and then I can start it right up again, this usually happens when I go over 60 km/h or uphill.
When I changed the cylinder etc, I also cleaned everything thoroughly, such as the carburettor, intake, new air filter, new fuel filter (there was no fuel filter before) new spark plug. I also removed the oil pump and put a metalplate with a gasket over the hole instead, I now mix the oil directly into the gasoline.
Some other info that might be important.
- When I drive over 60 km/h, it starts to make a noise from the variator (CVT), it´s sounds quite a lot.
- When it died, I tried to start it again while it was rolling and then it started right away, but it made a noise from the variator, like something "let go" that had been seized up, like a rubber sound, maybe from the belt.
- The variator belt touches the variator cover on the inside and has grinded a cut in the metal.
- In the variator, where the weights are, the belt does not go down to the bottom of the wheel.
- The clutch bell had turned blue from the heat.
- The place where the connecting rod attaches to the crankshaft had turned blue from heat.
- There was no fuel filter on it before. But i now saw there is an internal fuel filter in the gastank, can it affect the vacuum if you now have 2 fuel filters.
Please help me.
Regards
Andree.
Perfect...cheers buddy ":0)
Brill thanks bud 👍👍👌
great video mate
good video, good explanation
I have a 2010 Aprilia RS 125.
Can you do a video showing what the jets look like and their names please
Got bike runninging much better 👍😁👍
Awesome, thanks
2 strokes are so annoying to set up I have the idle perfect when it’s hot but it’s hard to keep running when cold as the idle is lower I can’t seem to get a perfect balance on it unfortunately guess I’ll just stick to blipping throttle when cold
Lol so true, my rs 125 starts immediately and idles well until it's below like 10 then it needs full choke then at 3-4 degree it does not start. Now trying to use it in the early morning in the uk is fun
@@noname-wo9yy haha same here and when mine does eventually start it smokes like crazy as it’s flooded the engine 🙄😂
Thank you and Well done
excellent thank you. I'm actually trying to tune my Dell'Orto VHSB34 on Rotax senior evo kart.
Yer I’m doing it on my rs with the same carb I’m a bit lost is the vhsb have a air or mixture screw?
Hello, at idle the trottle let a little bit air through? and the needle let fuel through?
I have this problem and don't know how to adjust them properly. Atm mine goes grear up to 10/h but when I give gas it goes slower and if I gave more gas it dies... please help😢
Clean the main jet in your carb
what is tick over?
What jet sizes are you running ? What type of engine? cheers from across the pond!
Any response on this video still guys need some tips here
What kind of tips?
@@ScooterLabUK I’ve fit a rage 6 70s kit and bigger card and can’t stop it bogging out when it’s started
Dude that sounds pretty off par all the way through my thoughts you need to learn it up by 1 quarter to on half turn then play with idle screw sounds much cleaner there's also a differance when under throttle been ridden just my opinion I think your a bit of par there decelerating you should always have a slight slowness to to deceleration not bam straight down I believe your happy medium is slight,y ascew just my opinion mind you what size engine are you working with for a start
Is that a power jet ?
Don't listen to this guy at all.. he's got them backwards... Your idle screw (witch u can tell easily when it's off by screwing it all the way in or out and seeing that it moves your needle in the center.. this screw will always located center of needle) and your mixer screw will always be on the outer side.. this will control air mixer all the way in will shut off air, all the way out will increase air flow.. mixer screw will never move the needle in any way.. also.. if u notice that your mixer screw runs best all the way out and is alittle loose then u need to replace your pilot jet by one step down.. same vise versa.. if it's all the way and runs best with no air you need to move to a bigger pilot jet... Your welcome...
I do have to say though he does explain what the bike does in a good lamens terms . For beginners you should def note that.. but understand he's not changing the mixer screw he's changing the idle screw... Easiest way to note this is by taking the carb off and watching the needle move, or just seeing that that screw actually aligns with the needle housing..
Are you familiar with these carbs Aaron? Seems that we are all wrong about the screw positions, even Dellorto who make them. We all bow to your greater knowledge. www.49ccscoot.com/pics/90ccExperiment/454.jpg
Jetex carbs work in an opposite manner, screw in to richen.
On 2 stroke its regulate air Flow.
On 4 stroke it regulate fuel.
too much talking
too fast
and crapy pronunciation
but thanks anyway
Shut up
Think i have an issue with the idle screw... I can screw it out all the way... does nothing... if I screw clockwise all the way then it starts to increase rpm.. it's a phb21 ... think it's not ok calibrated. Thank you for your answer.