Hi everybody im having this problem with my 1770 pro where sometimes i hear some sort of zzz in the background in my right headphone and is kinda of annoying, other times it get fixed alone but do u know how could i fix it and what could it be the problem?
It depends - if the buzz is in time with the beat then it may be an issue with the headphones like a hair stuck in the driver. If it a constant then it is probably an issue with the amp / source
Yeah, open up and check, i had the exact same issue, and when i opened it up i found a piece of hair, i removed it and it got fixed imediately... Just open up and check 😅
Thank you for the video! One driver died last night and while i tried to swap the drivers to see if its drivers or cables fault, the 3 wires connecting the XLR to the driver where cut off. I will try to solder them back but i cant remember which colour goes to the inputs of the xlr. Can you help?
So I have had 2 pairs of these and both had problems with one driver. I looked online and it seems to be a pretty common problem with rattling drivers and drivers that stops working or start to sound lower than the other one. The weird thing is that the DT 1990's doesn't seem to have this problem at all but they are supposed to share the same driver? What do you think could be the cause of this? Could the closed design maybe create some type of pressure on the driver making it break or something? On both my pairs the problem have come and then disappeared quite randomly. On my first pair the right driver would make a click noise and then become quieter than the other one and you could hear it distort for a while, and sounded like there were a hair on the driver, until it went back to normal. It often happened when I stood up or moved my head forward. It wasn't the cable or anything, it came from the driver. On my second pair I had this problem from the start, the first time I put my headphones on I could hear that rattling sound but in the left driver instead, it then disappeared for a month and suddenly one day the same driver was a lot quieter moving the stereo image to the right. I thought it finally broke so I contacted the store that I bought them from for a refund, but a little later when I listened to them again they fixed themselves, just like my first pair would do. So here I am not knowing what to do. Seems like there's something wrong with the Tesla drivers, but if the DT 1990's and the 1770's use the same drivers then that shouldn't be it. If you look up reviews of this headphone a lot of people are talking about this exact same problem, look up the reviews on Amazon for example. Do you have any idea of what could be the problem?
No. I don't know. I have herd of people having the odd issue with them. We did have a pair in recently that we thought had an issue with the driver being too boomy in the bass but it turned out to be the pads had degraded and needed replacing rather then a driver issue. Until I have seen a faulty pair I will not be able to diagnose the issue. I don't think the issue will be because they are in a closed enclosure. It may be a use case thing, where people with the 1770 are playing them louder for longer than people with 1990. I know the 1990 can be a little harsh at high volumes or maybe the type of person that buys the 1990 is less likely to report an issue online. It may be that they are built but different teams at the factory or it may just be blind luck. I'm just guessing
@@CustomCans Thanks for the answer. I'm very sensitive to high volume so I never play my headphones particularly loud, and also on the second pair I got, the problem was present from the first second that I tried the headphones brand new. The DT 1770's are also closed so they are more efficient than 1990's and should require lower volume overall. On my first pair I remember I could touch the outer cup and sometimes trigger this problem, it clicked and boom the driver would sound distorted. It felt like the driver was somehow connected to the cup and putting pressure on the cup would somehow put pressure on the driver and make it distort. I saw in this video that the driver indeed rests against the outer cup, maybe that tension could have something to do with it? I have to re-watch your 1990's video and see if those drivers are also held by the outer cup in the same way. Could you maybe do a video where you compare the differences between the 1770 and the 1990? I have been searching for a headphone that suits me for so long and finally found it, but now it has these annoying problems instead, I don't want to give up on it. EDIT: Even 2 other people in this comment section talks about driver failure out of 24 comments. I feel pretty sure that this isn't a user error, something is wrong with the design, I just don't know what.
Do you have any experience with ''MASSDROP X BEYERDYNAMIC DT 177X GO'' ? Would have been cool to see how they differ from the original. I hear that the 177x does right on everything the 1770 does ''wrong''.
I have not tried it but yes it should be fine - they are the same size. The only thing that may be tricky is that you will have to mod or replace the headband cable
I'm looking to mod my Dt 1990 pro and make it closed back. Now that I moved into an apartment complex, all the surrounding noise comes into my music and having a pair of closed back headphones would be ideal. Rather than spending another 500-600 dollars, I looked into buying the DT 1770 pro housing cups from the spare parts page but I'm always sent to an error not found page. Taking them apart looks rather easy, now I just have to find a way to close them off from the inside. Thanks! 😄
Yes - think they have the same drivers - you would just need to like the inside of the earcup with something like dynamat to seal it off and possibly leave one small hole to act like the bass port on the 1770 - you may also need to change the pads
Sad to see it's that much more obnoxious to take apart the headband than the DT770's. I hope at very least the plastic cover and sliders are more durable, where the DT770's could break within 1-2yrs of heavy use. I ended up getting a 3d printed replacement after the second pair broke within around a year, especially because of that $40+ price tag(after shipping).
I think that may be rarer than you think. We get a lot of DT770 and DT990 in for repair, many are 10+ years old and the cable seems to be the thing that goes on them. It is verry rare for us to get some with headband issues. But... that are not designed to fit the heads of cows .. :) perhaps we are just lucky or maybe it is a sun damage thing, in the UK we rarely see the sun. I have seen a lot of people selling 3d printed headband parts so it must be a regular problem for some people. The latest ones do have a different clicker mechanism
Well, around the time I used them quite often(mid 2010's ish), I saw one tech youtuber posting on twitter about his slider casing cracking(990's I think, same slider though), and when mine broke, I had found 3 different files for 3d printed replacements for it with at least a few comments on them. It's also a ridiculously easy repair as long as you have the screw driver, so I can't see many requesting repair for that compared to soldering. As well for me Beyerdynamics provided the first replacement I received for free as it cracked during the warranty period. From everything I saw and the 2 sliders that cracked on my DT 770 Pros, it always cracks on the inside right square between the screws, so I guess that spot receives the most stress from flexing.
Thank you! I got a new pair of 1770s and the cable to the right cup was twisted and pointed straight to my scalp which was very irritating. Removed the 2 screws off the hinges and twisted it once, they came off really easily fortunately.
What would you use to reattach the mini-xlr input after melting that glue? Just hot glue? Seems like it'd be super messy, lol. I ask because I need to replace that input, and am not sure what to use to secure it in place. Need something that will keep it there, but won't be a pure pain in the ass to remove if I ever need to replace it again...
It could be the cable, socket, internal wiring or the driver - you would be best off buying a cheap multemeter and testing the parts for continuity and shorts
@@CustomCans I changed places with the drivers and no matter how and where I hook it, one doesn't work. Can the driver be repaired or must it be replaced ...?
Hi! Thank you for the video @CustomCans. I got exactly the same issue as you @petar_crni872 (left side is out - right side works on my DT 1770 Pro). Product guarantee is expired of course! Internal wires look good and multimeter does not give any clue :( . Did you figure it out?
My problem was that the cover of my headphones clicked when I pressed it, I was worried that it was something related to the electronics or the plate, your video helped me understand this and calm down.
é boa tarde como que eu faço para achar a peça de reposição para deter 1990 o meu queimou um alto-falante e eu não sei como compra eu sou brasileiro
Search for beyerdynamic 916825
Hi everybody im having this problem with my 1770 pro where sometimes i hear some sort of zzz in the background in my right headphone and is kinda of annoying, other times it get fixed alone but do u know how could i fix it and what could it be the problem?
It depends - if the buzz is in time with the beat then it may be an issue with the headphones like a hair stuck in the driver. If it a constant then it is probably an issue with the amp / source
Yeah, open up and check, i had the exact same issue, and when i opened it up i found a piece of hair, i removed it and it got fixed imediately...
Just open up and check
😅
iria me ajudar como que eu faço para comprar o alto falante
europe.beyerdynamic.com/system-kit-dt-1990.html
Thank you for the video! One driver died last night and while i tried to swap the drivers to see if its drivers or cables fault, the 3 wires connecting the XLR to the driver where cut off. I will try to solder them back but i cant remember which colour goes to the inputs of the xlr. Can you help?
Thank you for making this video, I needed to replace the Bow cable. Your video made repairing my DT1990 pro a little easier. Thanks
Glad it helped
So I have had 2 pairs of these and both had problems with one driver. I looked online and it seems to be a pretty common problem with rattling drivers and drivers that stops working or start to sound lower than the other one.
The weird thing is that the DT 1990's doesn't seem to have this problem at all but they are supposed to share the same driver? What do you think could be the cause of this? Could the closed design maybe create some type of pressure on the driver making it break or something?
On both my pairs the problem have come and then disappeared quite randomly. On my first pair the right driver would make a click noise and then become quieter than the other one and you could hear it distort for a while, and sounded like there were a hair on the driver, until it went back to normal. It often happened when I stood up or moved my head forward. It wasn't the cable or anything, it came from the driver.
On my second pair I had this problem from the start, the first time I put my headphones on I could hear that rattling sound but in the left driver instead, it then disappeared for a month and suddenly one day the same driver was a lot quieter moving the stereo image to the right. I thought it finally broke so I contacted the store that I bought them from for a refund, but a little later when I listened to them again they fixed themselves, just like my first pair would do.
So here I am not knowing what to do. Seems like there's something wrong with the Tesla drivers, but if the DT 1990's and the 1770's use the same drivers then that shouldn't be it. If you look up reviews of this headphone a lot of people are talking about this exact same problem, look up the reviews on Amazon for example.
Do you have any idea of what could be the problem?
No. I don't know. I have herd of people having the odd issue with them. We did have a pair in recently that we thought had an issue with the driver being too boomy in the bass but it turned out to be the pads had degraded and needed replacing rather then a driver issue. Until I have seen a faulty pair I will not be able to diagnose the issue. I don't think the issue will be because they are in a closed enclosure. It may be a use case thing, where people with the 1770 are playing them louder for longer than people with 1990. I know the 1990 can be a little harsh at high volumes or maybe the type of person that buys the 1990 is less likely to report an issue online. It may be that they are built but different teams at the factory or it may just be blind luck. I'm just guessing
@@CustomCans Thanks for the answer.
I'm very sensitive to high volume so I never play my headphones particularly loud, and also on the second pair I got, the problem was present from the first second that I tried the headphones brand new. The DT 1770's are also closed so they are more efficient than 1990's and should require lower volume overall.
On my first pair I remember I could touch the outer cup and sometimes trigger this problem, it clicked and boom the driver would sound distorted. It felt like the driver was somehow connected to the cup and putting pressure on the cup would somehow put pressure on the driver and make it distort.
I saw in this video that the driver indeed rests against the outer cup, maybe that tension could have something to do with it? I have to re-watch your 1990's video and see if those drivers are also held by the outer cup in the same way.
Could you maybe do a video where you compare the differences between the 1770 and the 1990?
I have been searching for a headphone that suits me for so long and finally found it, but now it has these annoying problems instead, I don't want to give up on it.
EDIT: Even 2 other people in this comment section talks about driver failure out of 24 comments. I feel pretty sure that this isn't a user error, something is wrong with the design, I just don't know what.
Do you have any experience with ''MASSDROP X BEYERDYNAMIC DT 177X GO'' ? Would have been cool to see how they differ from the original. I hear that the 177x does right on everything the 1770 does ''wrong''.
No I don't sorry but if anyone sends some in I will try to get a video
@custom cans did you get a 177x in the meantime, i would also be interested to know if there are any internal Changes.
Hey i am Wodering if you can use the CASE DT 1770 PRO witch you can order at Beyerdynamic and build you dt 770 Hardware (Speaker) in ?
I have not tried it but yes it should be fine - they are the same size. The only thing that may be tricky is that you will have to mod or replace the headband cable
I'm looking to mod my Dt 1990 pro and make it closed back. Now that I moved into an apartment complex, all the surrounding noise comes into my music and having a pair of closed back headphones would be ideal. Rather than spending another 500-600 dollars, I looked into buying the DT 1770 pro housing cups from the spare parts page but I'm always sent to an error not found page. Taking them apart looks rather easy, now I just have to find a way to close them off from the inside. Thanks! 😄
Yes - think they have the same drivers - you would just need to like the inside of the earcup with something like dynamat to seal it off and possibly leave one small hole to act like the bass port on the 1770 - you may also need to change the pads
Sad to see it's that much more obnoxious to take apart the headband than the DT770's. I hope at very least the plastic cover and sliders are more durable, where the DT770's could break within 1-2yrs of heavy use. I ended up getting a 3d printed replacement after the second pair broke within around a year, especially because of that $40+ price tag(after shipping).
I think that may be rarer than you think. We get a lot of DT770 and DT990 in for repair, many are 10+ years old and the cable seems to be the thing that goes on them. It is verry rare for us to get some with headband issues. But... that are not designed to fit the heads of cows .. :) perhaps we are just lucky or maybe it is a sun damage thing, in the UK we rarely see the sun. I have seen a lot of people selling 3d printed headband parts so it must be a regular problem for some people.
The latest ones do have a different clicker mechanism
Well, around the time I used them quite often(mid 2010's ish), I saw one tech youtuber posting on twitter about his slider casing cracking(990's I think, same slider though), and when mine broke, I had found 3 different files for 3d printed replacements for it with at least a few comments on them. It's also a ridiculously easy repair as long as you have the screw driver, so I can't see many requesting repair for that compared to soldering. As well for me Beyerdynamics provided the first replacement I received for free as it cracked during the warranty period. From everything I saw and the 2 sliders that cracked on my DT 770 Pros, it always cracks on the inside right square between the screws, so I guess that spot receives the most stress from flexing.
Very interesting! I liked the bass tuning tip . Keep making videos by taking apart headphones! I also liked the video showing cable tips.
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it and yes I am hoping to do atleast one a week until I run out of models we modify here at custom cans
Thank you! I got a new pair of 1770s and the cable to the right cup was twisted and pointed straight to my scalp which was very irritating. Removed the 2 screws off the hinges and twisted it once, they came off really easily fortunately.
Lucky it was an easy fix ;)
@@CustomCans Yep. Was afraid I had to open up the whole headphone for a sec there :)
What would you use to reattach the mini-xlr input after melting that glue? Just hot glue? Seems like it'd be super messy, lol.
I ask because I need to replace that input, and am not sure what to use to secure it in place. Need something that will keep it there, but won't be a pure pain in the ass to remove if I ever need to replace it again...
Our technician puts IPA on the hot glue and it pops off or you can re heat it with a hot air gun and remove it
@@CustomCans Thanks
Thank you very very much!!!
I have a DT 1770 PRO but the left side does not work and the right side works, is it up to the driver or maybe it's something else ..?
It could be the cable, socket, internal wiring or the driver - you would be best off buying a cheap multemeter and testing the parts for continuity and shorts
@@CustomCans I changed places with the drivers and no matter how and where I hook it, one doesn't work.
Can the driver be repaired or must it be replaced ...?
@@Unknown_Disaster I'm not. I sold them ..
Hi! Thank you for the video @CustomCans. I got exactly the same issue as you @petar_crni872 (left side is out - right side works on my DT 1770 Pro). Product guarantee is expired of course! Internal wires look good and multimeter does not give any clue :( . Did you figure it out?
Thank you!
Very informative...!!
Thanks ;)
Thank you very much! You helped me!
My problem was that the cover of my headphones clicked when I pressed it, I was worried that it was something related to the electronics or the plate, your video helped me understand this and calm down.
Glad it helped ;)