Dude. I just want to say that your channel is a gold mine. I have extensive background in software and security, but almost zilch in hardware. Not only am I flying through your videos and learning from the ground up, but I'm also - for the first actual time - interested in 3D printers as well. Once I learn all of the Elegoo components and get a feel for the basics, I'm probably doing 3D printers next. Thank you SOOOO much! Keep doing what you're doing.
It is good to see this new H2 has gotten a few improvements. I have (not in use anymore) the original H2. It was fine as long as filament was loaded. But it jammed up about 50% of the time when unloading/loading filament.
This extruder has been my work horse since the new year started and its been the perfect solution for me. I just wish the mounting options were better.
One thing worth to mention: regular revo/revo6 heaters have a 104 semitec thermistor which has a different resistance curve than a 3950k thermistor commonly used on creality and most other brands like sovol, elegoo, artillery, flsun, tronxy or kingroon. Anycubic and prusa use the 104 semitec thermistor. Both thermistors are close enough, but still deviate like 10 or more degrees at set 220. So make sure you get the right heater (revo cr has the 3950k) for most optimal drop in experience
The most amazing things is that 3950 thermistor (13 in marlin) used in v6 heatblock of regular BIQU H2 V2S is not actually 3950, but 4100. It's thermal table sits right between true 3950 and 104 semitec themistors.
Do you feel that the direct drive with the shorter retraction settings gives you better quality prints when printing with silk filaments? I've been struggling a lot with silks, and after running many many tests and tweaking settings, and much research, I'm about ready to give up on silk altogether. I'm going to try using your retraction settings listed here on my one ender pro with a creality direct drive to see if it works better, but I'd love to hear your thoughts. Thanks so much for your channel. I hope you come to the East Coast RepRap at the end of September, I'd love to thank you in person for being such a great teacher in this hobby.
I love the video. I am using the Revo with an OMG DM1 extruder. I love it. But it is not as easy as you make it sound to change nozzles. Because… if the nozzle has melted plastic on it you will have to break the seal around the edge before you will be able to unscrew the nozzle. BUT I love the Revo system much better that the standard way of heat tightening. Much easier!!
i just swapped out my original H2 since it was causing problems after problems. While i still really like the overall design and functionality, i got only bad experience with the quality control on Biqu side. Worn out grub screws on delivery, overtightened screws on the sides, etc. So, to put it in Teaching Tech's words: "a great extruder IF you get working one".
Thanks for the review, yes i been looking to move to that driect drive on the ender 5. Question do you have to unload thw filament to remove the nozzle? Keep the dad jokes comming
Hi! You can unload the filament before swapping if you want to, but you can also cut the filament off at the top of the extruder and set the filament loading lever to the "I want to load filament" position (releasing the tension on the drive gears). Then unscrew the nozzle and pull it out, along with the little bit of filament that's still in it. Cut the filament off at the top of the Revo nozzle after it's out, and then next time you install that nozzle, purge what's in the nozzle as you're loading new filament.
I have the H2 v2 (non-S, non-Revo) and it's one of the most reliable in my inventory. However, it did require a disassembly and readjustment of the gears, before which it was awful.
Hi, thanks for catching that -- and sorry about leaving those off! They're linked in the description now, but for convenience, they're here, too: • Parts Cooling Duct from this set: www.printables.com/model/275250 • H2 Mount Plate: www.printables.com/model/376604
For the Ender-3 V2 or other printer with a 4040 extrusion for the Y axis, you can also remove the 4 bolts holding that extrusion in place, and move the whole Y axis forward by one set of screw holes, bolting the extrusion's rear holes to the front holes in the bottom of the frame. The Y axis will then only be held on by two screws instead of four, but it works fine.
@@BV3D never thought of that, thanks. I do have a question tho I used pressed clips to secure the ends of the belt but its not as nice as the original. Is there a specialized tool for it?
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Dude. I just want to say that your channel is a gold mine. I have extensive background in software and security, but almost zilch in hardware. Not only am I flying through your videos and learning from the ground up, but I'm also - for the first actual time - interested in 3D printers as well. Once I learn all of the Elegoo components and get a feel for the basics, I'm probably doing 3D printers next. Thank you SOOOO much! Keep doing what you're doing.
It is good to see this new H2 has gotten a few improvements. I have (not in use anymore) the original H2. It was fine as long as filament was loaded. But it jammed up about 50% of the time when unloading/loading filament.
This extruder has been my work horse since the new year started and its been the perfect solution for me. I just wish the mounting options were better.
That looks awesome, I am currently rocking a Sprite pro on my Ender 3v2.
Nice, detailed review Bryan! Thank you for sharing!
A lot of cool information about the new drackdrive
One thing worth to mention: regular revo/revo6 heaters have a 104 semitec thermistor which has a different resistance curve than a 3950k thermistor commonly used on creality and most other brands like sovol, elegoo, artillery, flsun, tronxy or kingroon. Anycubic and prusa use the 104 semitec thermistor.
Both thermistors are close enough, but still deviate like 10 or more degrees at set 220. So make sure you get the right heater (revo cr has the 3950k) for most optimal drop in experience
The most amazing things is that 3950 thermistor (13 in marlin) used in v6 heatblock of regular BIQU H2 V2S is not actually 3950, but 4100. It's thermal table sits right between true 3950 and 104 semitec themistors.
BV3d, BQ, H2 V2s E3D Revo,...or, for short.. this thingie! LOLOLOLOLO
Do you feel that the direct drive with the shorter retraction settings gives you better quality prints when printing with silk filaments? I've been struggling a lot with silks, and after running many many tests and tweaking settings, and much research, I'm about ready to give up on silk altogether. I'm going to try using your retraction settings listed here on my one ender pro with a creality direct drive to see if it works better, but I'd love to hear your thoughts. Thanks so much for your channel. I hope you come to the East Coast RepRap at the end of September, I'd love to thank you in person for being such a great teacher in this hobby.
I love the video. I am using the Revo with an OMG DM1 extruder. I love it. But it is not as easy as you make it sound to change nozzles. Because… if the nozzle has melted plastic on it you will have to break the seal around the edge before you will be able to unscrew the nozzle. BUT I love the Revo system much better that the standard way of heat tightening. Much easier!!
I don’t know if I overlooked it, but I can’t find the link for the cooling fan you used.
Good points ❤
Thanks, I have a H2V2S that I haven't installed yet, this info will help
i just swapped out my original H2 since it was causing problems after problems. While i still really like the overall design and functionality, i got only bad experience with the quality control on Biqu side. Worn out grub screws on delivery, overtightened screws on the sides, etc. So, to put it in Teaching Tech's words: "a great extruder IF you get working one".
Thanks for the review, yes i been looking to move to that driect drive on the ender 5. Question do you have to unload thw filament to remove the nozzle? Keep the dad jokes comming
Hi! You can unload the filament before swapping if you want to, but you can also cut the filament off at the top of the extruder and set the filament loading lever to the "I want to load filament" position (releasing the tension on the drive gears). Then unscrew the nozzle and pull it out, along with the little bit of filament that's still in it. Cut the filament off at the top of the Revo nozzle after it's out, and then next time you install that nozzle, purge what's in the nozzle as you're loading new filament.
I have the H2 v2 (non-S, non-Revo) and it's one of the most reliable in my inventory. However, it did require a disassembly and readjustment of the gears, before which it was awful.
Wheres the links for the part cooling fan....and the carrier....not on here and ive been checking since you put this video out...
Hi, thanks for catching that -- and sorry about leaving those off! They're linked in the description now, but for convenience, they're here, too:
• Parts Cooling Duct from this set: www.printables.com/model/275250
• H2 Mount Plate: www.printables.com/model/376604
Thanks 👍 😊
I solved the 10 mm printing area loss by printing y axis extension and custom longer belt.
For the Ender-3 V2 or other printer with a 4040 extrusion for the Y axis, you can also remove the 4 bolts holding that extrusion in place, and move the whole Y axis forward by one set of screw holes, bolting the extrusion's rear holes to the front holes in the bottom of the frame. The Y axis will then only be held on by two screws instead of four, but it works fine.
@@BV3D never thought of that, thanks.
I do have a question tho
I used pressed clips to secure the ends of the belt but its not as nice as the original. Is there a specialized tool for it?
Day 1 of bring back more Arduino Uno projects please!
Great review as usual, Bryan. Are you okay, though? You sounded a little hoarse.
Nay, I recorded this one at like 6 in the morning. My voice wasn't quite awake yet.
'Promo SM'