Glad to see a new video! I thought the aliens had gotten ya or something :) The compact rig is looking more and more impressive! If I ever get thetime to do one I am considering running wiring internal (like inside the square tube). I'm sure I can find or make grommets for where wire enter/exit. Also thought it might be neat to terminate somewhere liek at the front on the frame with some sort of industrial/automotive plug. It would be pretty easy to then make nice looking 'patch' cables from the frame to the controller box/pc.
Thanks for watching the video ! Yes, this rig should have a lot less 'clutter'.. You can make grommets by drilling out a hole in those plastic square tubing ends. That works too! Dave
Good to see you making video's again. I would run all the wires to the middle of the unit in your control box then your just running usb and power cable.
Great to see you back Dave! I love the wire management, gotta see if I can get something like that here I gotta get going building mine, just so much problems getting a UV joint here :D
Great to be back my friend! So I would recommend just finding a local automobile scrap yard - They usually take all the driveshafts out and put them in a pile. (I dont know why but.. they do that). I have seen them available on line or on Ebay but the prices are pretty high. - I got mine at a local scrap yard.. just picked out one that wasnt frozen with rust.. Dave
@Proximo011 another alternative is to source a truck or tractor PTO Uni Joint. This will give you the option of a generous mid frame to top frame spacing, allowing a normally underwhelming 3DOF wiper motor platform (small ranges of motion not so good with flight sim titles), to perform very well with flight sims because of the added range of motion you can introduce. Wiper motor style 3DOF's don't get highly rated for flight sims. Folks normally go with actuators for the range of motion required. The right Uni joint with a powerful DC motor with decent RPM and torque which will allow the use of longer motor levers, will get a humble 3DOF wiper motor (or similar DC motors) rig in the actuator ball park and not cost the earth compared to actuators. These Uni's (truck or tractor) can also be found in the grave yards of industry!
Very cool! Yall keep pluggin away at this stuff.. I am - I just ordered a few small parts this week and hopefully put them on the rig sometime soon.. another WIND BLower ( seaflow270 now I have two of these beasts to wire up ) www.amazon.com/dp/B0166S2PA2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Dave
Thanks for watching my friend! I'm just getting back to this rig after having to put the project on a 'shelf' for a few months.. New stuff coming up.. New GOOD stuff. I've found some pretty cool and very easy to implement wiring options thanks to the guys watching my channel.. I'll be sharing and showing them and USING them on this rig.. New video coming soon.. Hope you can tune in when I get it posted.. Dave
Thanks for watching.. I appreciate it.. Been quite a while since I was able to settle down with the other projects and get this rolling again! New stuff coming up next video.. I found some easier wiring options that may help someone out.. I'm going to be using them on the new video.. Tune in if you can! Dave
Thanks for watching Doctor.. I appreciate it! Yeah just getting back after building something else.. so Hopefully a new ERA with the GREEN thumbnail might help people look at the videos! Dave
Hi In short, for front ball bearings need friction/ machining resistant plate. Because motors need vertical support, because they want move weight (force equals reaction), ball bearings have small contact surface to supported all the weight, they will will create ditches pretty soon.
Your probably right.. I thought about that just now and will see what other solution I can come up with .. maybe a 'ditch' wont be so bad though.. I'll know after getting it up and testing it for a few weeks. I didnt have any issues with stability with the old rig . Potentially I could mount some skate wheels in front too if there is an issue.. We will see. Hope to bring out a new video soon.. Thanks for the comment, Gives me something to think about. Dave
Thanks for watching my friend! I'm just getting back to this rig after having to put the project on a 'shelf' for a few months.. New stuff coming up.. New GOOD stuff. I've found some pretty cool and very easy to implement wiring options thanks to the guys watching my channel.. I'll be sharing and showing them and USING them on this rig.. New video coming soon.. Hope you can tune in when I get it posted.. Dave
Impressive stuff. Ive not had a 3 dof unit, but i have also built some compact 2 dofs as well. Bit of planning and designing and you can have something set up in a small space.
These things are sooo cool once you get them running.. This one is a very compact rig - a lot of people were saying they don't have much space to put a motion rig, so decided to build one that only has a very small footprint.. Way easier to build a larger rig if you have the space.. Dave
@@DMAX_DIY I do indeed agree with and appreciate your choice to highlight compactness in your design as that is exactly why this is so cool to me, I've honestly scoured the internet in search of a build to influence my own and I've been following your work for a while, and this build has beyond delivered on what I thought was a worthy subscribe. Thank you for sharing your experience with us, I can't wait to see an update
Thanks for watching my friend! I'm just getting back to this rig after having to put the project on a 'shelf' for a few months.. New stuff coming up.. New GOOD stuff. I've found some pretty cool and very easy to implement wiring options thanks to the guys watching my channel.. I'll be sharing and showing them and USING them on this rig.. New video coming soon.. Hope you can tune in when I get it posted.. Dave
Thanks for watching and thank you for the comment! I'm just posting this one cause it's been a few months on hold due to building a screen room in the back yard.. So now I'm back to the 'build'.. Thanks again my friend! dave
Have a look at what prople do with 3d printers for cable management. Their way to roll in and roll out on a plastic "flexible ladder" seems like a good solution...
Thanks for watching my buddy! I'm just getting back to this rig after having to put the project on a 'shelf' for a few months. December is quite busy for everyone but Yeah I'm up for it! I've found some pretty cool and very easy to implement wiring options thanks to the guys watching my channel.. I'll be sharing and showing them and USING them on this rig.. New video coming soon.. Hope we can do an interview to start off the year Dave.. All the best! D
Yeah.. Your right.. I have TRANCE playing most of the time already.. So just stepping it up to a "CLUBBING" 180 BPM and increasing the volume should be no problemo.. Ahh the glow lights pulsing.. should be very cool..
Very cool.. It's a super great project, but it takes a few to make them. I attempted to document through this series all the critical dimensions with a tape measure as I built the frames etc.. If you start the series at the beginning, you'll see the tape measure..Here's the link.. Dave th-cam.com/play/PLO8l70qEp71MER1P0D-BBZza_gqzzmgp_.html
Thanks @ARTFLY ! Yeah.. things are finally cookin again.. Just trying to get this rolling.. I found a bunch of new (inexpensive tech) to help with the wiring this past few weeks and I'll be putting them all in the upcoming videos - they really make things a lot easier than what I've been doing as far as wiring it up.. so Hopfully making a new video soon before Christmas! Stay well my friend! Dave
Hi Dmax, what wire gauge are you using for the IBT-2? I bought some 10AWG but it's too big to fit in the connectors. Would 12AWG be enough to handle the amperage of the motors?
yes. I've tested the motors and the max I have seen spike about 9amps. so you would be safe to use 12 or maybe 16 AWG.. here is a chart 16-gauge wire 13 amps 14-gauge wire 15 amps 12-gauge wire 20 amps 10-gauge wire 30 amps hope that helps, Dave
Hello and I congratulate you on that great simulator. I have a problem with the SMC3 on my 2 dof. How do I solve that when I go to the end of the potentiometer travel, the motors cut off and everything remains off. I wait for answers and thank you very much
Great question.. but it sound like the SMC3 is doing what it supposed to do when the POT line intersects with the Max limits.. When that happens, it shuts off the motors. So play around with the CLIP limits (they might be orange in color) They have a function which should attempt to stop the motor and reverse the direction before the potentiometer reading hits the MAX limits (red line).. the max should just shut down the motors.. Hope that makes sense.. Dave
It´s amazing what you did, congratulations. Do you have a plan with measurements or something similar? I´d love to build it but i´m afraid to build something too big or too small, without ergonomics. Thank you so much, great work.
Hi Dave, great work. Love the new rig. Just one question. Im looking at building my next rig too. I'm interested in the position of the rods from the rotor arms of the motors coming all the way up to the frame near the steering wheel. What made you go for that design? I was wondering if the same effect could be achieved by a much shorter arm, lessening any inflection in the rod, given it would be so much shorter. Does increasing the height of the point of attachment lesson the impact of the rig being too top heavy? Thus decreasing any unwanted sway? Is it a better option to attach further up? Its got me thinking about my new build. Let me know what you think buddy. Thanks
Great question.. Ok.. so mechanical advantage.. That's the answer.. I learned from my experiments with the WW motors that they would not have any mechanical advantage when the the rods were low.. I hoped for the best but not strong enough.. When I placed them high up on the seat back, The motors had way more advantage due to the longer lever.. So the answer is mechanical advantage due to longer lever.. Thanks again for watching.. Dave
Thanks for watching.. I can only find them on EBay and if you search for 50:1 crab pot motors from the lister known as PGSAW.. I've bought them for the last 5 years from them.. It should the information in the video description.. They sell them from canada.. Dave
Here's the link.. You can find it about halfway down on the page.. also this is all the instructions for wiring and setting up everything.. D www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/smc3-arduino-3dof-motor-driver-and-windows-utilities.4957/
![[LIVE] BABYMONSTER(베이비몬스터) - DRIP | 두시탈출 컬투쇼](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UG05pxLGwzc/mqdefault.jpg)
Glad to see a new video! I thought the aliens had gotten ya or something :)
The compact rig is looking more and more impressive! If I ever get thetime to do one I am considering running wiring internal (like inside the square tube). I'm sure I can find or make grommets for where wire enter/exit. Also thought it might be neat to terminate somewhere liek at the front on the frame with some sort of industrial/automotive plug. It would be pretty easy to then make nice looking 'patch' cables from the frame to the controller box/pc.
@mdmlogin, this can definitely be done!
Thanks for watching the video ! Yes, this rig should have a lot less 'clutter'.. You can make grommets by drilling out a hole in those plastic square tubing ends. That works too! Dave
Good to see you making video's again. I would run all the wires to the middle of the unit in your control box then your just running usb and power cable.
Looking awesome Dave. I'm making some good progress also
Fantastic! And thanks for watching and commenting! Keep pluggin away! Dave
Great to see you back Dave! I love the wire management, gotta see if I can get something like that here
I gotta get going building mine, just so much problems getting a UV joint here :D
Great to be back my friend! So I would recommend just finding a local automobile scrap yard - They usually take all the driveshafts out and put them in a pile. (I dont know why but.. they do that). I have seen them available on line or on Ebay but the prices are pretty high. - I got mine at a local scrap yard.. just picked out one that wasnt frozen with rust.. Dave
@Proximo011 another alternative is to source a truck or tractor PTO Uni Joint. This will give you the option of a generous mid frame to top frame spacing, allowing a normally underwhelming 3DOF wiper motor platform (small ranges of motion not so good with flight sim titles), to perform very well with flight sims because of the added range of motion you can introduce. Wiper motor style 3DOF's don't get highly rated for flight sims. Folks normally go with actuators for the range of motion required. The right Uni joint with a powerful DC motor with decent RPM and torque which will allow the use of longer motor levers, will get a humble 3DOF wiper motor (or similar DC motors) rig in the actuator ball park and not cost the earth compared to actuators. These Uni's (truck or tractor) can also be found in the grave yards of industry!
That thank you text really made me smile …… amazing effort …… love every bit of this
Very cool! Yall keep pluggin away at this stuff.. I am - I just ordered a few small parts this week and hopefully put them on the rig sometime soon.. another WIND BLower ( seaflow270 now I have two of these beasts to wire up ) www.amazon.com/dp/B0166S2PA2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Dave
Can't wait to see it in action.
Thanks for watching my friend! I'm just getting back to this rig after having to put the project on a 'shelf' for a few months.. New stuff coming up.. New GOOD stuff. I've found some pretty cool and very easy to implement wiring options thanks to the guys watching my channel.. I'll be sharing and showing them and USING them on this rig.. New video coming soon.. Hope you can tune in when I get it posted.. Dave
Glad to see you back, D Max!! Rig’s looking great 👍 Keep it up 😎
Your the Best B! Thanks for watching.. hope to get it running soon! DMAX
Great video,good to see you back!
Thanks for watching.. I appreciate it.. Been quite a while since I was able to settle down with the other projects and get this rolling again! New stuff coming up next video.. I found some easier wiring options that may help someone out.. I'm going to be using them on the new video.. Tune in if you can! Dave
Great to see you back Dave, (AKA, the DON of fun stuff!). Great update and I love the new fancy thumbnail design. Very pro bro!
Thanks for watching Doctor.. I appreciate it! Yeah just getting back after building something else.. so Hopefully a new ERA with the GREEN thumbnail might help people look at the videos! Dave
Hi
In short, for front ball bearings need friction/ machining resistant plate.
Because motors need vertical support, because they want move weight (force equals reaction), ball bearings have small contact surface to supported all the weight, they will will create ditches pretty soon.
Your probably right.. I thought about that just now and will see what other solution I can come up with .. maybe a 'ditch' wont be so bad though.. I'll know after getting it up and testing it for a few weeks.
I didnt have any issues with stability with the old rig . Potentially I could mount some skate wheels in front too if there is an issue.. We will see. Hope to bring out a new video soon.. Thanks for the comment, Gives me something to think about. Dave
Looks pretty cool. Good Job!
Thanks for watching my friend! I'm just getting back to this rig after having to put the project on a 'shelf' for a few months.. New stuff coming up.. New GOOD stuff. I've found some pretty cool and very easy to implement wiring options thanks to the guys watching my channel.. I'll be sharing and showing them and USING them on this rig.. New video coming soon.. Hope you can tune in when I get it posted.. Dave
Heyyyy Dave glad to see a new video
Thanks for watching - It's great to get back to doing something fun instead of hammering nails.. Hopefully a new video soon too! Dave
Looks incredible 👌
Thanks for the comment! It looks like she's almost ready to test out.. I get some time this weekend to work on it.. Dave
@DMAX_DIY awesome stuff !! Moving the world !! I've send you a msg on Facebook 👌
@@pitstopdiy I'll check facebook tomorrow.. I am at work now. so cant but I appreciate it.. Dave
Impressive stuff. Ive not had a 3 dof unit, but i have also built some compact 2 dofs as well. Bit of planning and designing and you can have something set up in a small space.
Thanks for the comment! Yea this rig is 4 ft long so should fit in a pretty small space! Thanks for watching the video.. more to come soon.. Dave
Looking Good Dave.. Busy weekend Nice Job!
Thanks for the comment my friend! Thanks for watching and yes it was a busy weekend.. Hopefully I will be up and running with you guys soon!
Awesome work man, I need to get started on a motion build soon
These things are sooo cool once you get them running.. This one is a very compact rig - a lot of people were saying they don't have much space to put a motion rig, so decided to build one that only has a very small footprint.. Way easier to build a larger rig if you have the space.. Dave
@@DMAX_DIY I do indeed agree with and appreciate your choice to highlight compactness in your design as that is exactly why this is so cool to me, I've honestly scoured the internet in search of a build to influence my own and I've been following your work for a while, and this build has beyond delivered on what I thought was a worthy subscribe. Thank you for sharing your experience with us, I can't wait to see an update
wellcome back to you sir
Thanks for watching my friend! I'm just getting back to this rig after having to put the project on a 'shelf' for a few months.. New stuff coming up.. New GOOD stuff. I've found some pretty cool and very easy to implement wiring options thanks to the guys watching my channel.. I'll be sharing and showing them and USING them on this rig.. New video coming soon.. Hope you can tune in when I get it posted.. Dave
i'll be here @@DMAX_DIY
This looks so cool! Great job Dave. I'm suprised you dont have more subscribers
Awesome Comment my friend.. Probably cause It's a DIY project.. a lot of folks just want to buy stuff.. instead of DIY.. IDK.. Thanks again.. ! Dave
fantastic work.
Thanks for watching and thank you for the comment! I'm just posting this one cause it's been a few months on hold due to building a screen room in the back yard.. So now I'm back to the 'build'.. Thanks again my friend! dave
He’s back!!!!!!
Thanks for watching my friend! Good to be back!
Love the shop flags Dave !! 👍👍👍🏁🏁🏁
heck ya! Gotta Represent!
Have a look at what prople do with 3d printers for cable management. Their way to roll in and roll out on a plastic "flexible ladder" seems like a good solution...
Whats up Dave, great update man !! We got to jump on and do an interview soon. We would have some laughs !!
Thanks for watching my buddy! I'm just getting back to this rig after having to put the project on a 'shelf' for a few months. December is quite busy for everyone but Yeah I'm up for it! I've found some pretty cool and very easy to implement wiring options thanks to the guys watching my channel.. I'll be sharing and showing them and USING them on this rig.. New video coming soon.. Hope we can do an interview to start off the year Dave.. All the best! D
I think the glow lights are a missed opportunity, also you need to make a mod that plays eurobeat when you loose traction.
Yeah.. Your right.. I have TRANCE playing most of the time already.. So just stepping it up to a "CLUBBING" 180 BPM and increasing the volume should be no problemo.. Ahh the glow lights pulsing.. should be very cool..
@@DMAX_DIY try "Tokyo Drift / Eurobeat Remix"
Hey Dave
Great videos. I'm in process of making a 3 dof also. Could you share the dimensions for your rig. It would be very helpful .Thanks
Very cool.. It's a super great project, but it takes a few to make them. I attempted to document through this series all the critical dimensions with a tape measure as I built the frames etc.. If you start the series at the beginning, you'll see the tape measure..Here's the link.. Dave th-cam.com/play/PLO8l70qEp71MER1P0D-BBZza_gqzzmgp_.html
nice work
Thanks for watching. Hopefully I will have time to post up a few more videos before I go racing with it.. Dave
Welcome back man
Thanks! Just starting back on the rig after an extended break.. This rig should be great! Dave
B A C K !
G R E A T !
!GREETINGS!
Thanks @ARTFLY ! Yeah.. things are finally cookin again.. Just trying to get this rolling.. I found a bunch of new (inexpensive tech) to help with the wiring this past few weeks and I'll be putting them all in the upcoming videos - they really make things a lot easier than what I've been doing as far as wiring it up.. so Hopfully making a new video soon before Christmas! Stay well my friend! Dave
muito bom seu projeto
thanks you
Hi Dmax, what wire gauge are you using for the IBT-2? I bought some 10AWG but it's too big to fit in the connectors. Would 12AWG be enough to handle the amperage of the motors?
yes. I've tested the motors and the max I have seen spike about 9amps. so you would be safe to use 12 or maybe 16 AWG.. here is a chart
16-gauge wire 13 amps
14-gauge wire 15 amps
12-gauge wire 20 amps
10-gauge wire 30 amps
hope that helps, Dave
Hello and I congratulate you on that great simulator. I have a problem with the SMC3 on my 2 dof. How do I solve that when I go to the end of the potentiometer travel, the motors cut off and everything remains off. I wait for answers and thank you very much
Great question.. but it sound like the SMC3 is doing what it supposed to do when the POT line intersects with the Max limits.. When that happens, it shuts off the motors. So play around with the CLIP limits (they might be orange in color) They have a function which should attempt to stop the motor and reverse the direction before the potentiometer reading hits the MAX limits (red line).. the max should just shut down the motors.. Hope that makes sense.. Dave
It´s amazing what you did, congratulations. Do you have a plan with measurements or something similar? I´d love to build it but i´m afraid to build something too big or too small, without ergonomics. Thank you so much, great work.
Hi Dave, great work. Love the new rig.
Just one question. Im looking at building my next rig too. I'm interested in the position of the rods from the rotor arms of the motors coming all the way up to the frame near the steering wheel. What made you go for that design? I was wondering if the same effect could be achieved by a much shorter arm, lessening any inflection in the rod, given it would be so much shorter.
Does increasing the height of the point of attachment lesson the impact of the rig being too top heavy? Thus decreasing any unwanted sway?
Is it a better option to attach further up?
Its got me thinking about my new build.
Let me know what you think buddy.
Thanks
Great question.. Ok.. so mechanical advantage.. That's the answer.. I learned from my experiments with the WW motors that they would not have any mechanical advantage when the the rods were low.. I hoped for the best but not strong enough.. When I placed them high up on the seat back, The motors had way more advantage due to the longer lever.. So the answer is mechanical advantage due to longer lever.. Thanks again for watching.. Dave
Good Afternoon! Could you provide the file for the 3DOF simulator? I wanted the exact dimensions to each of the parts I should cut. Thanks
Do you have a link to those crab pot motors? Model number?
Thanks for watching.. I can only find them on EBay and if you search for 50:1 crab pot motors from the lister known as PGSAW.. I've bought them for the last 5 years from them.. It should the information in the video description.. They sell them from canada.. Dave
@DMAX_DIY thanks Dave!
Please give me a copy of SMC3 Windows Utilities, My sm3 is currently unusable with the motor3
Here's the link.. You can find it about halfway down on the page.. also this is all the instructions for wiring and setting up everything.. D www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/smc3-arduino-3dof-motor-driver-and-windows-utilities.4957/
Just a question, is this going to work with farming simulator 22?
Not sure.. i guess it depends on what type of tractor.
put the wires through the metal
If you want to sell that 1080 computer reply to this :)