THANK YOU SO MUCH D MAX.... Bar none best tutorial I ever watched on the subject , even after going through hundreds of posts on xsimulator I always ended up confused and with unanswered question. I'm getting ready to strt my build and this is extremly helpful sir! LEGEND!
Thanks Fred! Yeah me too! That's why I'm posting the stuff and doing a few more build ups.. It's confusing and hopefully a few videos will help out some guys like you and I wish I had seen some in the beginning! I am doing a new series which adds some bigger motors so check back in when you have time my friend! Dave
You, Sir, are a total legend for doing this!!! I'm just following along - and it's all going fine so far! Just about to mount Hall Effect pots to spindle!
Thanks Jason! I've got the rig ready to power up.. (but I'm out of town) so this weekend should be running and seeing how well those motors work.. If they dont have enough power.. I'll move them back to get mechanical advantage.. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for making this! A 2DOF seat mover is the next thing on my DIY list so this video tutorial is absolutely invaluable. If you’re ever in Aus I owe you many beers!
Thanks for the video. I like to learn how things work rather than just following along. I've seen many videos where people just show their rig working or show what they did but not how they did it. This is exactly what I was looking for.
Well Thanks for commenting! Yeah I got sick of just seeing stuff working with no real explanation so I figured out would make videos that would have helped me out in the beginning of all this.. Glad you liked it my friend! DMAX
So glad I came across this, motion rig has always been the goal, and i love building stuff. Doing the research now, then the hard part, convincing the wife,lol
Well, I know what you mean Ray. I had to buy a few things and spread it out over time so she really didn't notice until I was building it in the garage! Thanks for the comment my friend! DMAX
Ah man Thanks so much! Yep, I'm back to business again! although the 'business' makes no money.. I guess it's just funny 'business' .. Thanks for taking a look.. DMAX
That a great comment my friend! I know it was a long video, but there was a lot of detail people need to know before 'diving' into a project like this.. DMAX
Finishing up my virtual pinball project now. Looks like I have my next project in the pipeline now :) Thinking 3 DOF. Loved this guide. Very in depth, you explained all the important things. Most of all, after watching, I think I have a solid grasp on the basics. I think Ill be doing a lot of googeling and reading/watching today. I got the bug!
Yeah.. the 'bug' is even harder to shake off once your actually moving in VR.. forget it.. I'm designing a new rig for people that only have a small amount of space. so a more compact 3DOF rig.. I got the motors on my workbench, I got the steel ordered .. cant wait! Should be great.. And I will post the build on this channel.. Step by step once again cause my other videos could have been a bit better.. I'm not rushing through stuff anymore.. Thanks for you comments and kind words.. ✌
So far I built a wooden rig and put vibration motors of old controllers under the gas and braking pedal and the the steering wheel to give me feedback for wheelspin, blocked wheels, understeer etc. Also built with an arduino uno and a controller board. Such a motion plattform will be my next project, when I have the time and money.
That's cool Mo He.. I personally like the haptic feedback motors on the rig because in VR you need a bit more feedback. Stay tuned, I'm working on a new series.. Compact motion sim.. I'm going through it all as best I can step by step. th-cam.com/play/PLO8l70qEp71MER1P0D-BBZza_gqzzmgp_.html
Thanks for the comment. Yeah that's why I made the video.. There seemed to be alot of 'grey area' videos out there so I figured I would set the record straight.. Appreciate the Like my friend! DMAX
Not being a handyman, this is a bit above my head Mr D (as far as putting it all into practice, not your video tutorial). But glad to see you helping others who have the "tinkering" bug. Have you been O.K., as I was wondering why I hadn't seen a video for a while?
SR! Thanks for taking a look.. Yep I'm doing good just was pretty busy for last month so no time to post anything.. Hope your doing good and I hope the video can shed some light and make it a bit easier for anyone wanting to do this.. DMAX
Simtools Pro. I hope you are fully recovered. Just did my first practical step into building my rig. Bought a couple of motor controllers (BTS7960B), arduino uno r3 clones and some other stuff to help out on the build. Thanks for your videos (reviewing some of the old ones to check the wiring details). Following the steps of a viewer from your channel, I'm trying to buy some steering motors but having some trouble finding some suitable models, but since the electronics will take about a month to arrive, I'm not in a real rush :)
Luis! Good to see your comment! I am 'recovered' .. took a month but Back at it again. So I understand that folks want to save money by using WW motors.. I just could not get the response I expected out of the. That's why I upgraded to 24 volt (more voltage= more force).. I tried and tried to use these $10 motors.. but for real If you want to move your rig and your body you need a bit more .. The Steps I use in the video and the electronics always work.. even with $10 motors.. but the ones I use and 'trust' are those Crab pot motors 50:1 ratio.. Keep pluggin away.. Get good motors 2 wire.. you will be glad you did.. Dave
@@DMAX_DIYHi Dmax great videos! thanks you! I live in the UK and there doesn’t seem to be much of a crabbing scene over here as there is in canada, because I can’t see any of those motors for sale 😅 could you recommend anything else that I could find in the UK or from ali express? much appreciated 😊
A boys dream, love the explanation simple and easy to understand... other channels just show building with expensive kits.. btw the ost type music kept my attention😂😊.
Oh just in time... I was watching your videos earlier this morning. I'm in the beginning research stage right now, gathering parts. You came just in time with the wiring part. It's exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much! If I could offer you one piece of constructive criticism, You may want to consider removing the music from your instructional videos that have a ton of "Paint by the Numbers." A video like this, a person tends to start/pause start/pause while doing the arduino and wire connection steps, the music muffles your voice out in some spots when you are away from the camera. Otherwise Thanks for a great video!
Thanks Dennis! I just bought a wireless mic but it didn't work right so I had to "CRINGE" while editing and hope for the best. Glad I posted it yesterday as it seems to have given a few folks some clarity on the details and procedures involved. None of them are particularly difficult, but if someone 'sees' it happening, they have more confidence.. DMAX
Thank you so much for taking the time to explain this process in such a helpful manner. I would like to see your main rig and how you made that as well as any other SIM racing projects or builds that you have completed or are working on. I do not subscribe to very many channels but you sir have earned it
Andrew, Thanks for taking a look.. I appreciate your comment. I'm kind of the same way in subscribing so thanks. I plan to go over the main rig in a bit more detail than I did here in this video.. th-cam.com/video/rfB93iPcQvk/w-d-xo.html but truth be told, I really didn't even know that I could post anything on youtube back then so I did not actually record much.. Just some stuff for my friends and relatives.. But in 2022..I will be doing a video on it trying to capture the DIY parts as best as I can.. Thanks again my friend! DMAX
Awesome video my guy! Your explanation on how to program everything was extremely informative. I'm just this side of computer illiterate and still followed along.
Great Comment Big Chris.. I really wanted to slow down a bit and not rush through everything.. If I were watching I would want to actually understand A-Z.. Glad you could watch.. More coming up so please check back.. Dave
@@BOBOTHEBANDIT Thanks for the kind comment my friend! Hope it helps out. The info is out there but nobody seemed to make a video.. so thought I would streamline the process and shine some light.. DMAX
I love how in depth and detailed you get with these simulation builds its so amazingly awesome! One Day I hope to own a simulation chair build just like you ;-)! Keep up the great work!! Thanks for sharing!! Stay Awesome!! See you soon!!
Thanks for the comment my friend! I appreciate it for sure! Hope to help some folks out through the grey area that no one talks about when building a SIM RIG DMAX
Thanks for the comment. Just trying to fill in the grey areas I found when I was building my first motion rig. I have two more videos on this series and one to go.. DMAX
Sir! Definitely I'm going to try this. Just finished my diy f1/gt wheel and pedals with force feedback and it's amazing. Now trying to 🤔 about the seat mover to complete the rig with the oculus headset😍
thank you so much Dave for your time to make this tutorial i am building my 1st rig and this is gonna add another element of immersion to it thanks for your help
Thanks for commenting Diecast! I appreciate it.. Yeah just take a look around on the channel videos.. I have made like 50 or 60 of them.. It's kind of a hobby - making motion simulators.. So feel free to ask any questions on the latest video - cause that's where YT tells me someone asks a question.. latest video: th-cam.com/video/KrTEpgaQViQ/w-d-xo.html
Hey Dave, George here in Oklahoma, really enjoying your videos on the seat mover project. A man has to have a project or 2 and I see you have your hands full. Looking forward to the next video! But hey do take your time and don't short anything out! I was thinking about those WS wiper motors as well appeared to be a little small. Those new ones, well er uh can't wait to see how you manage to mount them. later man.😉
Hello, awesome video. I would appreciate your help, since I am stuck with my project, also with 3 engines. I have assembled everything and it does not work. The doubt I have is with the Hall potentiometers, the one I use is a normal 10K potemciometer, but they do stop, I don't know if yours rotates infinitely without limits?
That was pretty quick considering I just posted this video. The Hall effect Pot will turn infinitely but there is a 'sweet spot' where arduino gets the position reading from. I would suggest only connecting one motor and IBT (if that's what your using) and making sure you can get the green line - POT reading - to move on SMC3. When that's good, let me know cause (also make sure your comm ports match up like on the video) DMAX
@@DMAX_DIY Hello, the green line coincides with the center, it lets me adjust the potentiometer to the center, but it keeps doing strange things to me. The motor turns very slowly, when it wants, turning more than necessary, without a stop. I have already tried with another Arduino UNO and it does the same. The port is perfect, I have copied your parameters from the SMC3. What else can I review? Thank you anyway
@@RicardoGonzalez-kn8gz Ok, so that suggests the Arduino is running SMC3.ino file. I ended up soldering my connections on the IBT-2 in this example because I wasn't making a good connection to some of the pins.. Once I did that, it acted like it should. Have you posted the issue on X-simulator? Those guys are real wizards to solving strange issues.. I will tell you that every time I have had something undesired go on, it was a loose connection.. On my 3DOF rig, I soldered everything.
@@DMAX_DIY Hello, In the end I managed to get 2 motors to work, but motor 3 only turns me in one direction. With the SMC3 when you put it in Triangle, the motor or potentiometer makes the rise, but when it goes down, it does not move, if I move the potentiometer manually to its initial position, it will do the same again, it is as if it lacked some command in the program Do you know what it can be? THANK YOU!!
@@RicardoGonzalez-kn8gz Thanks for the question my firend! Yeah, from my experience, It could be a loose connection.. That's why I soldered all my connections (drove me crazy). Possibly you need to swap +- on the motor side .. it could be going the wrong way.. The guys a x-simulator.net may have more advice. DMAX
Thanks for watching and you fabulous comment.. Humbled. I just am having a fun and sharing how cool all this stuff is.. I race it every week on line against a lot of people .. not the fastest guy out there but I am having the most fun.. and they all know it.. hahah Dave
I know this tutorial will help a lot of people! Thanks for using your engineering genius for good 😎 I died laughing with the dog popups 😂 Great work as always!
RUF RUF!! Oh wow.. I did not hear them when I was recording and I think they were reacting to the sound of the motors spinning!! Thanks so much for the comment !!! DMAX
GREAT STUFF DMAX! Very inspiring. I'm working on mine using wiper motors as well. Then I saw a more recent post from you where you decided to upgrade your design because it wasn't powerful enough. Too bad I already bought the wiper motors hahaha. But with some research I'm thinking of using a 24V supply for my 12V wiper motor. Theoretically this should double the RPM and increase the torque although there could be some risk of overheating if each motor would run continuously at high speed for over a minute which I don't think happens in a simrig. Would really want to hear your thoughts on this before I give it a go. thanks again!
Hey Rio.. YT did not tell me you had posted a comment so I was looking at the old comments and saw yours just now.. Ok. Your wiper motors may be way more powerful than the ones I used so I would try that first. They do work.. ( I ended up making some 'mechanical advantage' modification to get those small motors to work ok ) But The 24V motors may work better.. Hopefully I get a video out this weekend to see how much better they may be.. Check back.. I'm not sure on the 24V supply to a 12 v motor.. SO.. the internet says " If you run a 12v motor from 24v its current drain and speed will still depend on the mechanical loading. However under no load it will now run at twice the speed at which it originally ran with 12v. Heating in the motor is still related to the current - so you can still run it at its full rated mechanical load/current " which means to me.. go try it.. it may overheat the motors but ya don't know till you try.. Also..put an emergency on/off switch or breaker so if it starts burning down.. you can shut it off. Let me know.. I will do an experiment in a future video on this.. Dave
Thanks for watching Wesley.. YT did not let me know you commented till today.. Crazy.. Yeah you can build something cool if you just give it a shot! DMAX
Thanks a lot! Your video made me confident making my first seat mover. Mine is mostly finished, however the motor/ POT direction is causing me some trouble: 1. do i need to reverse the POT since it's facing each others? or it's taken care by the arduino? 2. do i need to mount both POT in same direction? like 2.5V position facing the same direction? these problems are killing me, knowing my seat mover is that close to working
Well it's easier to reverse the motor (in my case) than the pot because the pot is soldered. You can reverse the motion in the simHUB software just by clicking a button. So as long as the actually move the motors in any direction, reversing the direction can be reversed easily by click a box on the sim HUB software.. Yeah I've been where you are at and once you get everything to actually move, the sim Hub will help you set it up. DMAx
@@DMAX_DIY thanks for the reply, I accidentally burnt my motor driver and the backup one, luckily it’s arriving tmr. Another question is which direction the POT should face? Like both facing the rear of the chair with 2.5V position? Or other direction?
@@DGworksIvan So the hall effect pots have the unique ability to spin around without limits unlike a wirewound pot. So as long as you can attached them to the motor shaft, it doesnt matter which way they go. Plus you can swap directions in the simtools software.
Hey Dave, loving the content and how you explain everything in an easy to understand manner. In your opinion, could 6x wiper motors be used to create a 6DOF platform ?, would this require doubling or tripling the Arduino’s etc ?. Cheers, keep up the great work!!!
Thanks for watching Scott.. Ok, so from what I've been able to test, no the wiper motors I had were not powerful enough .. it's all about the motors.. the arduino can control 3 motors and the IBT-2's can handle up to 43 amps each.. the wipers probably max out around 4 amps maybe.. with a 6DOF all the weight is ON the motors.. they would probably just sit there and overheat.. I'm doing a 6DOF this winter so hopefully you can tune in.. Right now I'm doing a series on a 3dof compact rig.. Thanks again my friend! Dave
@@DMAX_DIY Thanks for the response Dave. I was considering a ball screw type actuator system in the hope of lessening the load on the wiper motor, I’ve taken your advice on board and may run a test setup just to rule it in or out. Thanks again
Hi Dave. Sorry to bother you. I have an important question. When using wiper blade motors, do I wire the high and low speed together to the ibt 2 controller? Or only the high speed? Tia
So, the big thing is that you are only using the wire to the high speed and the wire to the low speed.. No ground wire. Be sure to isolate the ground like I showed in the first video or something will short out. Also if you have industrial motors, they should only have two wires and those connect to the IBT MOTOR side.. For WW motors You hook the high speed and low speed wire to the MOTOR side of the IBT.. I have a new video coming tomorrow night which shows a little bit more.. Thanks for the question. Dave
Great tutorial! I'm just beginning my motion sim rig journey. I'm getting hung up on which power supply to buy. Are you just using a 12v battery? Or is there some kind on computer power supply that would run off computer power? I have read the FAQ about server power supplies, but it didn't sink in. Thanks for all the informative videos!
Great Question Chad. Yeah I was a bit confused by the server power supply info I have found because they are usually trying to invert it to 12VDC . I figured a simple Truck battery would eliminate all the guesswork. It does, it's simple, never shuts off and has more power (amps) than server power supplies. I also run a 4 amp trickle charger *battery tender.. The combo has run my rig for almost two years now without any issues.. Dave
Great toturial. im having fun figgering all out. Only problem i encounter today is that i get readings form potmeters. only my motor will not use. Trying a standalone arduino program to rotate the motor wil work. Only Smc3 won't enable the motor. More digging required :)
So the Pot's I use are linked in the description which are hall effect 10K .. You could use wire wound 10k's too and try that.. Just with the wirewound ones, they only rotate a little bit.. the hall effect ones have no physical limits. Keep pluggin away. Let me know how it goes! DMAX
@@DMAX_DIY i think i found my problem. I am using a moto monster shield board. Instead of ib2. But the pinout is totaly different. Cant find the right pinout yet but i think i am on something now. Thanx for the tip!
Yeah.. I have not used the MM board.. I have one running one SEAFLOW FAN but have not been able to get it to work correctly.. The IBT-2's seem to work better for ME.. Although I am going to get those Rolls Royce motor controllers the *Sabertooth 2x60* 2 motors @ 60 amps.. Here is a video from 6 degrees of freedom.. I am going to make the same thing I hope.. Except out of Carbon fiber.. th-cam.com/video/q4G71M5L5Yo/w-d-xo.html
Fantastic video. Really helpful. Thanks. Looking forward to having a go at upgrading my static rig. Quick question on the potentiometer if that's ok. Lots of different kinds available and it's quite confusing for me as a newbie 😕 the potentiometer you show has 180 degrees of travel but I thought somewhere you mentioned 360 degrees being best?? Would you still recommend this potentiometer or a different one?
Hi Simon.. good point.. ok, so best to get a hall effect pot, which can spin 360 degrees.. BUT -- you want one that has only 180 degrees of sensor.. the useful amount of rotation for the motor is only 180.. Illl see if i can get the part number for you here.. I order through DIGI Key Hall Effect Potentiometers DIGI-Key and others PN 987-1392-ND
This is just what I needed. Thanks so much for doing this. Im on the lookout for motors. I see yours are 180W. I have 2 30W motors but I'm guessing this wil not be enough. What is the recommended Power, Torque and RPM?
Thanks for the question Jason.. I was looking for 60:1 motors at 12VDC but all I could find was super expensive 'motion dynamics' from Australia. But I did find the crab pot motors that some of the guys in x-simulator.net were using. I got those and they were about $150 cheaper each motor. I have had good success.. I'm not sure how well these WW motors will work.. I am testing them out. I should know in the next few days! Just got the wiring done this afternoon.
So, after a week of gathering parts, and waiting for the mailman. I started to get things together, but I have a bunch of questions for some people can answer. #1. I automatically went to SMC3.ino version 1.0 thinking that the "newest is the best." I could not get the motor to move at all. I then watched the D MAX video and he used version 0.7 .ino, this worked good for me and the motor started moving good and the green line followed the blue line while using a small 12v motor (not big enough for a sim). I WAS SO HAPPY!!! Is there a known problem with version 1.0 .ino versus 0.7 version of SMC3 or a major change? I'm going to investigate this further! #2. I have 2 heavy duty motors from an old 1980's big satellite dish system. Very powerful to move a dish full of Michigan winter snow. The motors work good when running them off a big battery and work in reverse when the polarity is reversed. No problems with the motors directly to the battery. When I hook a motor up to replace the little 12v motor. All I get is "hunting" or chatter. I can see the green sensor line go from bottom to top in a constant pattern. I set KP at 400, the rest at 0, I then slowly move PWMMAX up very slowly. At first I will get silence and then chatter. Very difference results with these motors versus the small ones. Are there some good defaut KP numbers to work with? Have people run into motors that just will not work with this stuff? #3. In the documentation is mensions that Motor #1 & Motor #2 will have the same settings. Does motor 1 and 2 work as one unified set? I was thinking motor 1 (roll left roll right) / motor 2 (up . down) / motor 3 (yaw. side to side)? Does one like #2 motor have reversed polarity to work with the #1 motor? I noticed in D MAX video 1 and 2 motors perform 2 functions, both up/down & combination high/low to roll the seat? #4 Motor #3 is used for the yaw on the roller skate wheels, right? Thank you, everyone and D MAX! ~Dennis
Hi Denis! Happy to see you got it moving. for Q3, the sample rate for motor 1 and 2 are higher than for motor 3.. But motor 1 and motor 2 run totally independent of each other. Just the sample rate is a little slower for motor three. But I use motor three for TL and it's just fine for me. Q4.. Yes motor three for yaw. Q1.. Maybe ask the x-simulator.net guys.. They probably would know if there is a big difference between .7 and 1.0 Q2.. I had that happen from time to time, maybe you need more MINIMUM pulse width? Again, the x-sim.net guys would probably know what direction to point you in. The big motors run on 12V? Sounds like they are not showing the position of the motor shafts for some reason. I would make post a thread on x-simulator. you can upload screenshots and that may help solve cause they know pretty much everything about this.. Dave
Also, If the motors take off in the wrong direction, the potentiometers will go quickly out of their operating range.. Try swapping the motor leads.. I had to do that today on my 2DOF seatmover build. One motor worked fine, the other went as you described.. I swapped the leads and the pot stayed with it.. Let me know DMAX
Hello, first of all I want to thank you for your great contribution. I have been collecting information for weeks to do something similar (for MSFS2020) and what you say is true, that there is a lot on paper but nothing explained in this way. All this that you explained took many doubts out of my head. In Argentina, where I live, the prices of moving seats are extremely expensive and I have the illusion of building one with two small motors like the one you showed at the beginning. My main question is whether the reduction mechanism will withstand the force of the movement (I don't know if it has plastic or iron or alloy gears, so its durability could be questioned) although it is the cheapest thing I can buy anyway. The mechanical part does not worry me because I have manual skills and equipment to cut and weld. Maybe I should first do a test using instead of the bridge that controls the motor, put two small servo motors that come in the Arduino kits to see if it works as I want. The other thing that worries me is HOW DO I make the system interact with that flight simulator. I would appreciate any feedback from you. Once again, thank you very much for sharing such valuable information and greetings from the South of Argentina!
Great comments and Yeah I was in the same boat before I just started trying to build one of these things. A lot of questions.. But I can tell you that if you head over to x-simulator.net There are about 200 people over there who are building, or who have built these motion sims and they know everything. Just search around the forums and i can guarantee the answers are there for you. My 12V crab pot motors have nylon gears I'm pretty sure. I've been running them for over 2 years and driving them pretty hard with the full frame rig. They just keep working fine. I thought.. Oh I'm sure they will wear out.. But no.. they have not.. Hope any of that helps you out my friend!
Good question my friend! I have only tried it with the UNO R3.. There are several types of uno. But only the R3 version works with SMC3 and Simtools and the IBT motor controllers. Or at least that's what the X-simulator forum seems to indicate. So I have only purchased the R3's.. I have heard that other Uno variations do not work correctly so I didnt look into those versions. Hope that helps you.. Dave
My name is Julio and I'm from Brazil, I'm building a simulator for myself and I'm having doubts regarding the engines you used, can you give me the specifications or the link to where you got it. Hi congratulations for the channel helped me a lot. Thanks.
Julio, I have my doubts too. I got them maybe 15 years ago. I'll try and find the best mechanical advantage for the motors if they are unable to push the seat around. On my 3DOF, I use industrial grade 50:1 motors, which are plenty powerful. Stay tuned cause I'm mounting them up the WW motors in the next episode and we shall see how they work
@@DMAX_DIY Thanks for the help, just one more doubt your industrial engines and ww engines are 12v or 24v? I'll look forward to the next video. And once again congratulations for the channel, I really liked your explanations.
@@jclordeiro The simplest solution is 12V. So the industrial crab pot motors 50:1 are 12VDC.. So are the WW motors. and I run them off a 12V truck battery.. More than enough amps with this type of setup. DMAX
Hi, thanks for the tutorial, I was at a car scrapyard today and got two window wiper motors 18$ each. I was thinking of building a 2dof rig for vr (no screen mounted) but I’m not sure if they can handle the force required. How do i know/sense if they are to weak?
Great question.. If they are too weak, they will not push your chair convincingly enough. I did a series on the 12 v WW motors and mine were not strong enough even when I adjusted the mechanical advantage. I did end up getting two wheelchair motors and they seemed up to the task.. Dave
@@DMAX_DIY did you try to increase the voltage to a higher value? I think the motors are rated for 12V but if i over voltage them they rotate faster. May i ask you how you got hold of wheelchair motors?
@@chaldean7043 The Wheelchair motors are 24 volts (typical of wheelchair motors from what I understand) I got them off ebay for about $60 bucks I think.. two wires each motor That's all you need. So the power supplies I ordered from amazon were 24 Volt power supplies. 1 per motor. If I were to run them off battery power, I would use two 12 v batteries in series which would provide the 24 volts. more voltage seems to equal more torque. as the 24 volt motors have some real punch. I did do a 'series' of videos on this if you want to take a look.. here is a link th-cam.com/play/PLO8l70qEp71PVzlkKte8PsuzhqgLL_suv.html Dave
Good question.. Probably. Since the motors will attempt to travel in either direction. One side will short to ground. I would recommend just getting commercial motors instead of WW motors. Hopefully that helps.. Dave
Thanks for the question. I don't know for sure about that one.. It seems like a good idea but I'm getting a little old for a chasing the $$.. I do appreciate the comments because that's one way for me to get feedback. DMAX
I'll check with the folks at Xsimulator.net. they would know. My experience is with 12VDC.. Simple and easy. I know there are guys who are running server power supplies with the 12VDC output. When they give me some info, I'll post it here. I'm sure it can work, I just did not go that route to keep it simple. Dave
Ok.. The basics are here on this x-simulator.net page. take a look here is the link www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/smc3-arduino-3dof-motor-driver-and-windows-utilities.4957/
Thank you for sharing your knowledge I am your student when it comes to building a simulation rig. The work you do really is helpful. If was not living in South Africa and you were close to where I live, you would be my best friend and mentor. I would learn as much as i could from you. Thank you and God bless you.
@@tshepolaka8132 Tshepo.. thanks for commenting.. keep pluggin away.. I have a new vid coming out probably on wedenesday.. hopefully help some people out.. Kudos to you and yours.. Dave
Good question.. SO the Yellow line is a representation of the pulses that the arudino is telling the IBT-2 to put out.. so it changes a lot from what I see. I am coming out with a video this weekend which I am messing around with the PWMAX settings.. and the PWMIN.. It's pretty good.. I tried to move things around a lot more in my new video so Yall can see what these things do.. Hopefully it will shed some light on it for you or at least give you the experience to see how these setting affect the motor in real time.. I've been trying to do the new series a bit more slower so people can see what everything does.. Or at least that's my effort.. So May 14th or 15.. All I gotta do is edit the footage and send it.. let me know if you have a chance to watch .. Dave
Hello friend, I have this problem. When I turn a potentiometer, both motors work at the same time, and if I turn the other potentiometer the same thing happens. What could it be?
that's pretty confusing for me. somehow both inputs to the arduino a0 a1 are getting the same signal perhaps. Try hooking up only one motor at a time. Connect one. and test, then disconnect it and test the other motor. I've not had that issue before. Dave
I have a problem I can't figure it out please help. It looks like the IBT2 aren't sending out the 12V to move the motors.what I am doing wrong here. I'm connected to a 12v car battery the 12v are going in but they are not coming out the IBT2???
Sorry, TH-cam did not let me know you typed a question.. (not sure why they do this..) BUT lets go over this and get you going. I would connect up ONE motor first and get it working. So start with the Comm port.. What comm port does windows say? Then type that into the SMC3 utlity tool INI file.. (theres only two lines to that file if I remember). Be sure to download and install the ARDUINO sketch next.. With the Arduino Sketch uploaded and the SMC3 utility INI file modified for the Com port, you should be able to start SMC3 and it should see the arduino.. Let me know if you got that far. DMAX
Love your videos, just one little tip... sometimes the background music too much foreground music ;) Which makes it more difficult to hear you ;) Specially for non native english like me :)
@@boywilmsen3067 Thanks for the comment. I've built like 4 of these and the first one turned out perfect but I really had a time figuring out everything so that's why I did this video. It covers the 'grey' areas which I did not understand until after I built one. Take a look at my 3DOF build.. I used more powerful motors but the same setup as the WW motors ..DMAX
@@DMAX_DIY yeah watched that one too i think, where you started with windshieldwipers and replaced them with stronger ones. What I like about that setup is the yaw, many of them, like the SFX100, seem to be missing that, right?
@@boywilmsen3067 The traction loss motor was the game changer for me.. So much more like a real car.. I run in VR so any tactile movement like TL is super helpful and of course totally awesome. I really like those crab pot motors. But Motion dynamics in Australia makes more powerful 60:1 motors. But they are pretty pricey.. Like $250 ea.. If I build a 6DOF, I'll probably pony up the cash for those cause a 6DOF is not 'resting' on a u-joint like my rig does.. DMAX
1 Year later but not to late . With the release of GT7 vor PSVR2 on Sony PS5 i was looking for something like your Projects , in this video you talk about the potenziometer and the Chase when you turn it . This is the PID Controller , right ? Need to build on . How many kg can this construction lift ... depend on speed and force ? Could be that the small one s are enough , because i only use vr , so i can build my Rig much lighter . Greets
it can get pretty heavy using steel.. i am planning on weighing all the major frames on the new series i am making. yes pid controller. i not sure how much it can lift. but that's a good idea to test.
Yeah I'm having the same issue.. I dont know for sure. I may order some 360's and test them.. I would think the 360's will be fine.. cause You are only moving the motors less than 180 anyway.. Let me know I'm frustrated with not being able to order the 180's but FYI the 180's have a 180 'dead spot' so I think the 360's will work. Dave
@@DMAX_DIY hi i got my test version up and running but the range from the 360`s is to big. because of that i can`t setup the max limits for the motors because 255 is half of what the sensor reads. do you know if there is a way to double the sensor reading or multiply it?
@@d33fNL Ok.. so that makes sense about the 360 as opposed to the 180 ones. I would think there is a way to look in the arduino code and see where it reads the sensor. maybe doubling or dividing by 2 might work.. I just checked again and the 180 Pots are still on back order.. I was able to get some 180 degree 10 K pots in one day from amazon so maybe consider that if the code thing doesnt work. Dave
hi Dave hope you are well sorry to bother but i have a technical question you may or may not have had this.. i connected my transformer to my rectifier and got 26.5 vdc (input says 27v max) coming out when i connect to the ibt2 boards and check voltage again i have 39.9 vdc at the ibt2 have you had this and is it normal? there were no smells or burning anywhere by the way many thanks in advance rico
its a little hot for those IBT2's I think.. BT2 BTS7960B BTS7960 43A Motor Driver Specifications: - Input Voltage: 6 ~ 27Vdc. Driver: Dual BTS7960 H Bridge Configuration. Peak current: 43-Amp. PWM capability of up to 25 kHz. Control Input Level: 3.3~5V. Control Mode: PWM or level. Weird that the input to IBT is higher than output of rectifier. Is there an adjustment on the rectifier to lower the voltage?
Hey, I ran into a bit of problem. So I bought all the components i need, and i could also set up the build. However my potentiometers are not the bests for this job. So they can be rotated like 10 times (Vishay Spectrol Precision Potentiometer 534-11203) which means they are really precise, but then it means my motor has to turn like 4 times to get to the Target line in the SMC3. So everything works fine, except this. The potmeter won't turn enough on its own scale compared to the target motion in the SMC3. Do you guys have any idea how could i scale up the potmeter's values, or any other? Or do I have to buy new sensors? :S (Totally noob for electricity, but enthusiastic :D)
Easiest way, just order the 180 degree hall effect ones. They can rotate endlessly but only have a sweet spot of 180.. You only use maybe 160 of it maybe 180 if you set up everything perfect.. But yeah if you have to turn it 4 times to get the SMC to the target line, I would either make some type of gear to spin it faster which may be difficult or go on ex simulator.net and ask those guys to help modify the arduino code to make it respond to your pot position. One guy had 360 degree pots and he was able to do it.. however yours may not have a simpler solution other than to order the 180 degree ones.. But after you get them.. your good to go! so let me know what you decide in case someone else has the same issue.. Dave
Good question.. Short answer is no.. wires not included.. you can get 26 guage wire on amazon pretty cheap. The bigger wires - that control the motors are 16 gauge, you can find that a the big home improvement store.. Keep watching the videos, I include as much info as I can remember to include as far as where to get stuff.. etc.. Dave
@@ow3nnnh I'm not sure about that.. I found those PS's by trolling around the xsimulator.net forum.. some guys were using them and I thought i could give them a try.. They seemed to do the trick and have not tripped due to overcurrent when I was using them.
Great question.. I actually get asked that a lot.. Ok.. so all the cars around you eventually wreck or stop working and end up in Salvage Yards. You just need to find the closest one near your house and go there and ask for a 'driveshaft'.. they will usually have a pile of them.. Be sure to check to make sure the U joints (there will be two of them) are not frozen with rust.. Just make sure you can move them around a bit.. The last one I bought cost $20 bucks US.. It has a u joint near the transmission and another by the differential. Second option - You can buy a complete one on EBAY but it costs a lot more.. (but it's probably brand new).. Let me know if you find have success finding one.. Oh.. They usually come off of most TRUCKS, VANS and CARS that have RWD.. those are the most sturdy ones.. Also.. watch my latest series if you have time .. DAVE th-cam.com/play/PLO8l70qEp71MER1P0D-BBZza_gqzzmgp_.html
I have been watching your videos for a long time, made various size simulators and now want to go deeper. I'd like to control the simulator directly via an accelerometer (mpu6050). Alas it is a coding scenario which is beyond me. I thought maybe Rene might be able to assist, unless you know of anyone else who can assist?
Well that's pretty cool.. I dont know that chip but maybe post it up on the x-simulator.net forum. I'm trying to find time to control some sea flow blowers using the IBT but every time I find the 'time' to work on it.. Life happens.. So I'm on pause for now.. Go and see what those guys at x sim may have already done it.. all the best D
Go to system.. Look at the COM ports, plug in the arduino. Write down which COM port it's on. Then In SMC3, go to the SMC3.config file and change the com port to whatever your Arduino is recognized on.. Look at about 30 minutes into this video, I show it there. th-cam.com/video/5Du7pbOSe_Y/w-d-xo.html
@@DMAX_DIY it works, everything is working good now, the problem we had was that the tubing we used to connect the potentiometer to the motor was a little bit lose so it was throwing off the reading on the SMC3 so we replace and everything started working just fine. We are in stand still right now due to a surgery but once we are full recovery we will get back to it. We can wait to have it all done. I personally wanted to thank you for your help and all your videos the are very help full. Thank You again.
@@emanuelortiz3667 Wishing a speedy recovery to your family Emanuel! I'm glad the videos helped and things are working ! Awesome.. Tune back in when you have a chance my friend! Dave
good question Mika.. probably cause they were just too weak.. i bought them back in the 1990s and used them for Halloween props.. maybe they had to many hours on them. I did complete an 24v wheelchair setup that worked pretty good also another 12 volt 50:1 build if you have time to look th-cam.com/play/PLO8l70qEp71PVzlkKte8PsuzhqgLL_suv.html and the 12 volt compact simulator videos are here th-cam.com/play/PLO8l70qEp71MER1P0D-BBZza_gqzzmgp_.html
im having problem with upload smc3 ino to adruino . " error complilation of 'void setup". that will be appreciated anyone can help. thousand thanks in advence.
Make sur the Simtools is set to the same comm port as the SMC3.. And be sure to close SMC3 before starting up SImtools.. Let me know if that helps. Dave
Now I'm confused.. I perhaps did not present the information very well. The main thing I found with the motors I used was that they were not convincingly powerful enough for my liking. If the motors were bigger, that may have helped. I had like 8 of those motors lying around and always wanted to try them. I can assure you though. I did cut one of the wires to eliminate a path to ground through the motor windings.
THANK YOU SO MUCH D MAX.... Bar none best tutorial I ever watched on the subject , even after going through hundreds of posts on xsimulator I always ended up confused and with unanswered question. I'm getting ready to strt my build and this is extremly helpful sir! LEGEND!
Thanks Fred! Yeah me too! That's why I'm posting the stuff and doing a few more build ups.. It's confusing and hopefully a few videos will help out some guys like you and I wish I had seen some in the beginning! I am doing a new series which adds some bigger motors so check back in when you have time my friend! Dave
Great video Brother, I think I might have a new project, can't wait for part 2, and nice shirt buddy!
Thanks for the comment Denis! Air Force Vet and Sir Spats Vet here.. Worked on P2 for a couple hrs today.. should be out soon! DMAX
@@DMAX_DIY Hey Big D it's Hippy LOL
@@hippysplace Hey Brother! Cool to have you take a look at the latest vid! DMAX
You, Sir, are a total legend for doing this!!! I'm just following along - and it's all going fine so far! Just about to mount Hall Effect pots to spindle!
Thanks Jason! I've got the rig ready to power up.. (but I'm out of town) so this weekend should be running and seeing how well those motors work.. If they dont have enough power.. I'll move them back to get mechanical advantage.. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for making this! A 2DOF seat mover is the next thing on my DIY list so this video tutorial is absolutely invaluable. If you’re ever in Aus I owe you many beers!
Thanks William. Glad I could help and yep.. Ill take you up on that offer ! DMAX
Thanks for the video. I like to learn how things work rather than just following along. I've seen many videos where people just show their rig working or show what they did but not how they did it. This is exactly what I was looking for.
Well Thanks for commenting! Yeah I got sick of just seeing stuff working with no real explanation so I figured out would make videos that would have helped me out in the beginning of all this.. Glad you liked it my friend! DMAX
This is my jam !!! Stuck in lockdowm with nothing to do .. this ^ 🙏 thank you for this !
Nice timing then! Yeah it's been a weird year and a half.. Posting up part two this weekend hopefully. DMAX
So glad I came across this, motion rig has always been the goal, and i love building stuff. Doing the research now, then the hard part, convincing the wife,lol
Well, I know what you mean Ray. I had to buy a few things and spread it out over time so she really didn't notice until I was building it in the garage! Thanks for the comment my friend! DMAX
Welcome back to the world of uploads my friend. You been missed. As usual a very fascinating watch.
Ah man Thanks so much! Yep, I'm back to business again! although the 'business' makes no money.. I guess it's just funny 'business' .. Thanks for taking a look.. DMAX
You make this seem so easy an explain everything in detail makes feel like can do it too thanks
That a great comment my friend! I know it was a long video, but there was a lot of detail people need to know before 'diving' into a project like this.. DMAX
If I could do it - you can do it !!!
@@ARTFLY I agree ART FLY, Ya just gotta give it a shot.. Once that baby starts moving with the game.. It's all over man! DMAX
Love it Dave. But your making me to excited about my build lol. I'm gonna spend money before I'm ready lol. Bookmarked this one. Cheers buddy.
Thanks Terry! Yeah, come on back when your ready to build.. and if you have any questions just ask right here on the page! DMAX
Thats amazing stuff there Dave. My biggest respect for you to be able to learn all that stuff.
Thanks JURacing! I doing my best to communicate all the 'grey' areas I encountered while building my motion sim.. I appreciate it my friend! DMAX
This is absolutely awesome keep the good videos coming so Beneficial
Thanks Letsgetit! Great name btw.. Yeah I will I have a lot more planned. Thanks again for stopping by and taking a look.. DMAX
Finishing up my virtual pinball project now. Looks like I have my next project in the pipeline now :) Thinking 3 DOF. Loved this guide. Very in depth, you explained all the important things. Most of all, after watching, I think I have a solid grasp on the basics. I think Ill be doing a lot of googeling and reading/watching today. I got the bug!
Yeah.. the 'bug' is even harder to shake off once your actually moving in VR.. forget it.. I'm designing a new rig for people that only have a small amount of space. so a more compact 3DOF rig.. I got the motors on my workbench, I got the steel ordered .. cant wait! Should be great.. And I will post the build on this channel.. Step by step once again cause my other videos could have been a bit better.. I'm not rushing through stuff anymore.. Thanks for you comments and kind words.. ✌
So far I built a wooden rig and put vibration motors of old controllers under the gas and braking pedal and the the steering wheel to give me feedback for wheelspin, blocked wheels, understeer etc. Also built with an arduino uno and a controller board. Such a motion plattform will be my next project, when I have the time and money.
That's cool Mo He.. I personally like the haptic feedback motors on the rig because in VR you need a bit more feedback. Stay tuned, I'm working on a new series.. Compact motion sim.. I'm going through it all as best I can step by step. th-cam.com/play/PLO8l70qEp71MER1P0D-BBZza_gqzzmgp_.html
Thanks for doing this video. Very informative, easy to follow. I feel confident that I understand the basics of how the setup works.
Thanks for the comment. Yeah that's why I made the video.. There seemed to be alot of 'grey area' videos out there so I figured I would set the record straight.. Appreciate the Like my friend! DMAX
Not being a handyman, this is a bit above my head Mr D (as far as putting it all into practice, not your video tutorial). But glad to see you helping others who have the "tinkering" bug.
Have you been O.K., as I was wondering why I hadn't seen a video for a while?
SR! Thanks for taking a look.. Yep I'm doing good just was pretty busy for last month so no time to post anything.. Hope your doing good and I hope the video can shed some light and make it a bit easier for anyone wanting to do this.. DMAX
Simtools Pro. I hope you are fully recovered. Just did my first practical step into building my rig. Bought a couple of motor controllers (BTS7960B), arduino uno r3 clones and some other stuff to help out on the build. Thanks for your videos (reviewing some of the old ones to check the wiring details). Following the steps of a viewer from your channel, I'm trying to buy some steering motors but having some trouble finding some suitable models, but since the electronics will take about a month to arrive, I'm not in a real rush :)
Luis! Good to see your comment! I am 'recovered' .. took a month but Back at it again. So I understand that folks want to save money by using WW motors.. I just could not get the response I expected out of the. That's why I upgraded to 24 volt (more voltage= more force).. I tried and tried to use these $10 motors.. but for real If you want to move your rig and your body you need a bit more .. The Steps I use in the video and the electronics always work.. even with $10 motors.. but the ones I use and 'trust' are those Crab pot motors 50:1 ratio.. Keep pluggin away.. Get good motors 2 wire.. you will be glad you did.. Dave
@@DMAX_DIYHi Dmax great videos! thanks you! I live in the UK and there doesn’t seem to be much of a crabbing scene over here as there is in canada, because I can’t see any of those motors for sale 😅 could you recommend anything else that I could find in the UK or from ali express? much appreciated 😊
A boys dream, love the explanation simple and easy to understand... other channels just show building with expensive kits.. btw the ost type music kept my attention😂😊.
Oh just in time... I was watching your videos earlier this morning. I'm in the beginning research stage right now, gathering parts. You came just in time with the wiring part. It's exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much! If I could offer you one piece of constructive criticism, You may want to consider removing the music from your instructional videos that have a ton of "Paint by the Numbers." A video like this, a person tends to start/pause start/pause while doing the arduino and wire connection steps, the music muffles your voice out in some spots when you are away from the camera. Otherwise Thanks for a great video!
Thanks Dennis! I just bought a wireless mic but it didn't work right so I had to "CRINGE" while editing and hope for the best. Glad I posted it yesterday as it seems to have given a few folks some clarity on the details and procedures involved. None of them are particularly difficult, but if someone 'sees' it happening, they have more confidence.. DMAX
Thank you so much for taking the time to explain this process in such a helpful manner. I would like to see your main rig and how you made that as well as any other SIM racing projects or builds that you have completed or are working on. I do not subscribe to very many channels but you sir have earned it
Andrew, Thanks for taking a look.. I appreciate your comment. I'm kind of the same way in subscribing so thanks. I plan to go over the main rig in a bit more detail than I did here in this video.. th-cam.com/video/rfB93iPcQvk/w-d-xo.html but truth be told, I really didn't even know that I could post anything on youtube back then so I did not actually record much.. Just some stuff for my friends and relatives.. But in 2022..I will be doing a video on it trying to capture the DIY parts as best as I can.. Thanks again my friend! DMAX
Awesome video my guy! Your explanation on how to program everything was extremely informative. I'm just this side of computer illiterate and still followed along.
Great Comment Big Chris.. I really wanted to slow down a bit and not rush through everything.. If I were watching I would want to actually understand A-Z.. Glad you could watch.. More coming up so please check back.. Dave
Well done Dave m8. That's a great design. I would love to have a go of that rig. Keep up the great posts iam looking forward to part 2!
Thanks my friend! It's cool to be able to show people how they might make things like this.. I'll be posting up part two hopefully this weekend.. DMAX
@@DMAX_DIY yeah m8 its great to share this hobby. Your a very knowledgeable guy. This will help alot of people!
@@BOBOTHEBANDIT Thanks for the kind comment my friend! Hope it helps out. The info is out there but nobody seemed to make a video.. so thought I would streamline the process and shine some light.. DMAX
I love how in depth and detailed you get with these simulation builds its so amazingly awesome! One Day I hope to own a simulation chair build just like you ;-)! Keep up the great work!! Thanks for sharing!! Stay Awesome!! See you soon!!
Thanks for the comment my friend! I appreciate it for sure! Hope to help some folks out through the grey area that no one talks about when building a SIM RIG DMAX
DMaxx You’re My Hero. Thank you for this Video.
Thank you for the comment pyroblaze13! I hope it helps out. Part 2 coming up soon.. DMAX
That's awesome. Very in-depth and makes sense.
Thanks for the comment. Just trying to fill in the grey areas I found when I was building my first motion rig. I have two more videos on this series and one to go.. DMAX
Oh wow! This was so helpful!! Thanks so much DMax!!
Thanks for watching Nick.. I hope the new series helps out too.. Just posted up episode #1.. take a look if you have time..
Sir! Definitely I'm going to try this. Just finished my diy f1/gt wheel and pedals with force feedback and it's amazing. Now trying to 🤔 about the seat mover to complete the rig with the oculus headset😍
Oh that's some nice KIT you got there Cesar! I have the Rift CV1 and absolutely love VR with motion!
This is so helpful, have subbed so that I don’t miss anymore of your content
Thanks James! Were all in this together.. Just Doing our best to help out and have some fun!! DMAX
thank you so much Dave for your time to make this tutorial i am building my 1st rig and this is gonna add another element of immersion to it thanks for your help
Thanks for commenting Diecast! I appreciate it.. Yeah just take a look around on the channel videos.. I have made like 50 or 60 of them.. It's kind of a hobby - making motion simulators.. So feel free to ask any questions on the latest video - cause that's where YT tells me someone asks a question.. latest video: th-cam.com/video/KrTEpgaQViQ/w-d-xo.html
Hey Dave, George here in Oklahoma, really enjoying your videos on the seat mover project. A man has to have a project or 2 and I see you have your hands full. Looking forward to the next video! But hey do take your time and don't short anything out! I was thinking about those WS wiper motors as well appeared to be a little small. Those new ones, well er uh can't wait to see how you manage to mount them. later man.😉
Thanks for the comment my friend! Yeah those new motors should be great! I'll hook them up this weekend if I get the time! Thanks again! Dave
amazing tutarial, been searching for a good guide to try it my self and man your videos will make that happen :D
Good deal my friend! Thanks for the comment! Once you get one up and running, you'll be very happy! DMAX
Thank you for your video. Although I'm not confident in doing it myself but I do enjoy your video. Subscribed, Liked and shared.
I appreciate the comment my friend! Just trying to help out the DIY community! DMAX
Thanks for the video! I've been looking for something like this.
Thanks for taking a look.. Next one coming out tomorrow night my friend! DMAX
Great stuff! Following to build this myself on a similar Playseat Evolution chassis.
Thanks for taking a look.. That sounds like an EPIC project! I got two additional videos out on this so take a look if you have time! DMAX
Hello, awesome video.
I would appreciate your help, since I am stuck with my project, also with 3 engines.
I have assembled everything and it does not work.
The doubt I have is with the Hall potentiometers, the one I use is a normal 10K potemciometer, but they do stop, I don't know if yours rotates infinitely without limits?
That was pretty quick considering I just posted this video. The Hall effect Pot will turn infinitely but there is a 'sweet spot' where arduino gets the position reading from. I would suggest only connecting one motor and IBT (if that's what your using) and making sure you can get the green line - POT reading - to move on SMC3. When that's good, let me know cause (also make sure your comm ports match up like on the video) DMAX
@@DMAX_DIY Hello, the green line coincides with the center, it lets me adjust the potentiometer to the center, but it keeps doing strange things to me. The motor turns very slowly, when it wants, turning more than necessary, without a stop.
I have already tried with another Arduino UNO and it does the same.
The port is perfect, I have copied your parameters from the SMC3.
What else can I review?
Thank you anyway
@@RicardoGonzalez-kn8gz Ok, so that suggests the Arduino is running SMC3.ino file. I ended up soldering my connections on the IBT-2 in this example because I wasn't making a good connection to some of the pins.. Once I did that, it acted like it should. Have you posted the issue on X-simulator? Those guys are real wizards to solving strange issues.. I will tell you that every time I have had something undesired go on, it was a loose connection.. On my 3DOF rig, I soldered everything.
@@DMAX_DIY Hello, In the end I managed to get 2 motors to work, but motor 3 only turns me in one direction. With the SMC3 when you put it in Triangle, the motor or potentiometer makes the rise, but when it goes down, it does not move, if I move the potentiometer manually to its initial position, it will do the same again, it is as if it lacked some command in the program Do you know what it can be? THANK YOU!!
@@RicardoGonzalez-kn8gz Thanks for the question my firend! Yeah, from my experience, It could be a loose connection.. That's why I soldered all my connections (drove me crazy). Possibly you need to swap +- on the motor side .. it could be going the wrong way.. The guys a x-simulator.net may have more advice. DMAX
Thank you! 😊 amazing explanation 👏 you are a dream neighbor to live close to to learn from. Thank you again for making this video.
Thanks my friend! BTW I am going to be giving away some free SIMTOOLS Pro licenses on my next video.. Please tune in this weekend if you can! DMAX
@@DMAX_DIY I'm in
Sir you are a star ! even if I don't build one this is a very good educational video! thank you!
Thanks for watching and you fabulous comment.. Humbled. I just am having a fun and sharing how cool all this stuff is.. I race it every week on line against a lot of people .. not the fastest guy out there but I am having the most fun.. and they all know it.. hahah Dave
Awesome video mate
Thanks Adam. I appreciate it. DMAX
I know this tutorial will help a lot of people! Thanks for using your engineering genius for good 😎 I died laughing with the dog popups 😂 Great work as always!
RUF RUF!! Oh wow.. I did not hear them when I was recording and I think they were reacting to the sound of the motors spinning!! Thanks so much for the comment !!! DMAX
Really useful and helpful video my friend!!
Thanks R-VR! I appreciate the kind words.. I hope it helps someone - cause it would have helped me when I was building my 3DOF rig.. DMAX
GREAT STUFF DMAX! Very inspiring. I'm working on mine using wiper motors as well. Then I saw a more recent post from you where you decided to upgrade your design because it wasn't powerful enough. Too bad I already bought the wiper motors hahaha. But with some research I'm thinking of using a 24V supply for my 12V wiper motor. Theoretically this should double the RPM and increase the torque although there could be some risk of overheating if each motor would run continuously at high speed for over a minute which I don't think happens in a simrig. Would really want to hear your thoughts on this before I give it a go. thanks again!
Hey Rio.. YT did not tell me you had posted a comment so I was looking at the old comments and saw yours just now.. Ok. Your wiper motors may be way more powerful than the ones I used so I would try that first. They do work.. ( I ended up making some 'mechanical advantage' modification to get those small motors to work ok ) But The 24V motors may work better.. Hopefully I get a video out this weekend to see how much better they may be.. Check back.. I'm not sure on the 24V supply to a 12 v motor.. SO.. the internet says " If you run a 12v motor from 24v its current drain and speed will still depend on the mechanical loading. However under no load it will now run at twice the speed at which it originally ran with 12v. Heating in the motor is still related to the current - so you can still run it at its full rated mechanical load/current " which means to me.. go try it.. it may overheat the motors but ya don't know till you try.. Also..put an emergency on/off switch or breaker so if it starts burning down.. you can shut it off. Let me know.. I will do an experiment in a future video on this.. Dave
dream sim rig here i come.. thank you sir :)
Thanks for watching Wesley.. YT did not let me know you commented till today.. Crazy.. Yeah you can build something cool if you just give it a shot! DMAX
thank you for useful video
Thanks a lot! Your video made me confident making my first seat mover.
Mine is mostly finished, however the motor/ POT direction is causing me some trouble:
1. do i need to reverse the POT since it's facing each others? or it's taken care by the arduino?
2. do i need to mount both POT in same direction? like 2.5V position facing the same direction?
these problems are killing me, knowing my seat mover is that close to working
Well it's easier to reverse the motor (in my case) than the pot because the pot is soldered.
You can reverse the motion in the simHUB software just by clicking a button. So as long as the actually move the motors in any direction, reversing the direction can be reversed easily by click a box on the sim HUB software.. Yeah I've been where you are at and once you get everything to actually move, the sim Hub will help you set it up. DMAx
@@DMAX_DIY thanks for the reply, I accidentally burnt my motor driver and the backup one, luckily it’s arriving tmr.
Another question is which direction the POT should face?
Like both facing the rear of the chair with 2.5V position?
Or other direction?
@@DGworksIvan So the hall effect pots have the unique ability to spin around without limits unlike a wirewound pot. So as long as you can attached them to the motor shaft, it doesnt matter which way they go. Plus you can swap directions in the simtools software.
Hey Dave, loving the content and how you explain everything in an easy to understand manner.
In your opinion, could 6x wiper motors be used to create a 6DOF platform ?, would this require doubling or tripling the Arduino’s etc ?.
Cheers, keep up the great work!!!
Thanks for watching Scott.. Ok, so from what I've been able to test, no the wiper motors I had were not powerful enough .. it's all about the motors.. the arduino can control 3 motors and the IBT-2's can handle up to 43 amps each.. the wipers probably max out around 4 amps maybe.. with a 6DOF all the weight is ON the motors.. they would probably just sit there and overheat.. I'm doing a 6DOF this winter so hopefully you can tune in.. Right now I'm doing a series on a 3dof compact rig.. Thanks again my friend! Dave
@@DMAX_DIY Thanks for the response Dave.
I was considering a ball screw type actuator system in the hope of lessening the load on the wiper motor, I’ve taken your advice on board and may run a test setup just to rule it in or out.
Thanks again
Hi Dave. Sorry to bother you. I have an important question. When using wiper blade motors, do I wire the high and low speed together to the ibt 2 controller? Or only the high speed? Tia
So, the big thing is that you are only using the wire to the high speed and the wire to the low speed.. No ground wire. Be sure to isolate the ground like I showed in the first video or something will short out. Also if you have industrial motors, they should only have two wires and those connect to the IBT MOTOR side.. For WW motors You hook the high speed and low speed wire to the MOTOR side of the IBT.. I have a new video coming tomorrow night which shows a little bit more.. Thanks for the question. Dave
Great tutorial!
I'm just beginning my motion sim rig journey. I'm getting hung up on which power supply to buy. Are you just using a 12v battery? Or is there some kind on computer power supply that would run off computer power?
I have read the FAQ about server power supplies, but it didn't sink in.
Thanks for all the informative videos!
Great Question Chad. Yeah I was a bit confused by the server power supply info I have found because they are usually trying to invert it to 12VDC . I figured a simple Truck battery would eliminate all the guesswork. It does, it's simple, never shuts off and has more power (amps) than server power supplies. I also run a 4 amp trickle charger *battery tender.. The combo has run my rig for almost two years now without any issues.. Dave
Thanks! I might go that route too.
This is so cool. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Great toturial. im having fun figgering all out. Only problem i encounter today is that i get readings form potmeters. only my motor will not use. Trying a standalone arduino program to rotate the motor wil work. Only Smc3 won't enable the motor. More digging required :)
So the Pot's I use are linked in the description which are hall effect 10K .. You could use wire wound 10k's too and try that.. Just with the wirewound ones, they only rotate a little bit.. the hall effect ones have no physical limits. Keep pluggin away. Let me know how it goes! DMAX
@@DMAX_DIY i think i found my problem. I am using a moto monster shield board. Instead of ib2. But the pinout is totaly different. Cant find the right pinout yet but i think i am on something now. Thanx for the tip!
Yeah.. I have not used the MM board.. I have one running one SEAFLOW FAN but have not been able to get it to work correctly.. The IBT-2's seem to work better for ME.. Although I am going to get those Rolls Royce motor controllers the *Sabertooth 2x60* 2 motors @ 60 amps.. Here is a video from 6 degrees of freedom.. I am going to make the same thing I hope.. Except out of Carbon fiber..
th-cam.com/video/q4G71M5L5Yo/w-d-xo.html
@@DMAX_DIY cool! Are you going to document that build to. Looks like an awesome build to me! More content to look forward to ;D
@@ericmelchers750 Thanks Eric. I may end up doing that.. It's the holidays and all so I may have some free time.. D
i am five seconds in.
I can tell its cozy here
Fantastic video. Really helpful. Thanks. Looking forward to having a go at upgrading my static rig. Quick question on the potentiometer if that's ok. Lots of different kinds available and it's quite confusing for me as a newbie 😕 the potentiometer you show has 180 degrees of travel but I thought somewhere you mentioned 360 degrees being best?? Would you still recommend this potentiometer or a different one?
Hi Simon.. good point.. ok, so best to get a hall effect pot, which can spin 360 degrees.. BUT -- you want one that has only 180 degrees of sensor.. the useful amount of rotation for the motor is only 180.. Illl see if i can get the part number for you here.. I order through DIGI Key Hall Effect Potentiometers DIGI-Key and others PN 987-1392-ND
This is just what I needed. Thanks so much for doing this. Im on the lookout for motors. I see yours are 180W. I have 2 30W motors but I'm guessing this wil not be enough. What is the recommended Power, Torque and RPM?
Thanks for the question Jason.. I was looking for 60:1 motors at 12VDC but all I could find was super expensive 'motion dynamics' from Australia. But I did find the crab pot motors that some of the guys in x-simulator.net were using. I got those and they were about $150 cheaper each motor. I have had good success..
I'm not sure how well these WW motors will work.. I am testing them out. I should know in the next few days! Just got the wiring done this afternoon.
So, after a week of gathering parts, and waiting for the mailman. I started to get things together, but I have a bunch of questions for some people can answer.
#1. I automatically went to SMC3.ino version 1.0 thinking that the "newest is the best." I could not get the motor to move at all. I then watched the D MAX video and he used version 0.7 .ino, this worked good for me and the motor started moving good and the green line followed the blue line while using a small 12v motor (not big enough for a sim). I WAS SO HAPPY!!! Is there a known problem with version 1.0 .ino versus 0.7 version of SMC3 or a major change? I'm going to investigate this further!
#2. I have 2 heavy duty motors from an old 1980's big satellite dish system. Very powerful to move a dish full of Michigan winter snow. The motors work good when running them off a big battery and work in reverse when the polarity is reversed. No problems with the motors directly to the battery. When I hook a motor up to replace the little 12v motor. All I get is "hunting" or chatter. I can see the green sensor line go from bottom to top in a constant pattern. I set KP at 400, the rest at 0, I then slowly move PWMMAX up very slowly. At first I will get silence and then chatter. Very difference results with these motors versus the small ones. Are there some good defaut KP numbers to work with? Have people run into motors that just will not work with this stuff?
#3. In the documentation is mensions that Motor #1 & Motor #2 will have the same settings. Does motor 1 and 2 work as one unified set? I was thinking motor 1 (roll left roll right) / motor 2 (up . down) / motor 3 (yaw. side to side)? Does one
like #2 motor have reversed polarity to work with the #1 motor? I noticed in D MAX video 1 and 2 motors perform 2 functions, both up/down & combination high/low to roll the seat?
#4 Motor #3 is used for the yaw on the roller skate wheels, right?
Thank you, everyone and D MAX!
~Dennis
Hi Denis! Happy to see you got it moving. for Q3, the sample rate for motor 1 and 2 are higher than for motor 3.. But motor 1 and motor 2 run totally independent of each other. Just the sample rate is a little slower for motor three. But I use motor three for TL and it's just fine for me.
Q4.. Yes motor three for yaw.
Q1.. Maybe ask the x-simulator.net guys.. They probably would know if there is a big difference between .7 and 1.0
Q2.. I had that happen from time to time, maybe you need more MINIMUM pulse width? Again, the x-sim.net guys would probably know what direction to point you in. The big motors run on 12V? Sounds like they are not showing the position of the motor shafts for some reason. I would make post a thread on x-simulator. you can upload screenshots and that may help solve cause they know pretty much everything about this..
Dave
Also, If the motors take off in the wrong direction, the potentiometers will go quickly out of their operating range.. Try swapping the motor leads.. I had to do that today on my 2DOF seatmover build. One motor worked fine, the other went as you described.. I swapped the leads and the pot stayed with it.. Let me know DMAX
Hello, first of all I want to thank you for your great contribution. I have been collecting information for weeks to do something similar (for MSFS2020) and what you say is true, that there is a lot on paper but nothing explained in this way. All this that you explained took many doubts out of my head. In Argentina, where I live, the prices of moving seats are extremely expensive and I have the illusion of building one with two small motors like the one you showed at the beginning. My main question is whether the reduction mechanism will withstand the force of the movement (I don't know if it has plastic or iron or alloy gears, so its durability could be questioned) although it is the cheapest thing I can buy anyway. The mechanical part does not worry me because I have manual skills and equipment to cut and weld. Maybe I should first do a test using instead of the bridge that controls the motor, put two small servo motors that come in the Arduino kits to see if it works as I want. The other thing that worries me is HOW DO I make the system interact with that flight simulator. I would appreciate any feedback from you. Once again, thank you very much for sharing such valuable information and greetings from the South of Argentina!
Great comments and Yeah I was in the same boat before I just started trying to build one of these things. A lot of questions.. But I can tell you that if you head over to x-simulator.net There are about 200 people over there who are building, or who have built these motion sims and they know everything. Just search around the forums and i can guarantee the answers are there for you. My 12V crab pot motors have nylon gears I'm pretty sure. I've been running them for over 2 years and driving them pretty hard with the full frame rig. They just keep working fine. I thought.. Oh I'm sure they will wear out.. But no.. they have not.. Hope any of that helps you out my friend!
@@DMAX_DIY many thanks . I go for the little motores to start My proyect. I take note x-simulator. Grettings from south of Argentina
Hello, I would like to ask you, if the SMC3 will also work with the normal Arduino Uno. Thanks for your tutorials.
Good question my friend! I have only tried it with the UNO R3.. There are several types of uno. But only the R3 version works with SMC3 and Simtools and the IBT motor controllers. Or at least that's what the X-simulator forum seems to indicate. So I have only purchased the R3's.. I have heard that other Uno variations do not work correctly so I didnt look into those versions. Hope that helps you.. Dave
My name is Julio and I'm from Brazil, I'm building a simulator for myself and I'm having doubts regarding the engines you used, can you give me the specifications or the link to where you got it.
Hi congratulations for the channel helped me a lot.
Thanks.
Julio, I have my doubts too. I got them maybe 15 years ago. I'll try and find the best mechanical advantage for the motors if they are unable to push the seat around. On my 3DOF, I use industrial grade 50:1 motors, which are plenty powerful. Stay tuned cause I'm mounting them up the WW motors in the next episode and we shall see how they work
@@DMAX_DIY Thanks for the help, just one more doubt your industrial engines and ww engines are 12v or 24v?
I'll look forward to the next video.
And once again congratulations for the channel, I really liked your explanations.
@@jclordeiro The simplest solution is 12V. So the industrial crab pot motors 50:1 are 12VDC.. So are the WW motors. and I run them off a 12V truck battery.. More than enough amps with this type of setup. DMAX
Hi, thanks for the tutorial, I was at a car scrapyard today and got two window wiper motors 18$ each. I was thinking of building a 2dof rig for vr (no screen mounted) but I’m not sure if they can handle the force required. How do i know/sense if they are to weak?
Great question.. If they are too weak, they will not push your chair convincingly enough. I did a series on the 12 v WW motors and mine were not strong enough even when I adjusted the mechanical advantage. I did end up getting two wheelchair motors and they seemed up to the task.. Dave
@@DMAX_DIY did you try to increase the voltage to a higher value? I think the motors are rated for 12V but if i over voltage them they rotate faster. May i ask you how you got hold of wheelchair motors?
@@chaldean7043 The Wheelchair motors are 24 volts (typical of wheelchair motors from what I understand) I got them off ebay for about $60 bucks I think.. two wires each motor That's all you need. So the power supplies I ordered from amazon were 24 Volt power supplies. 1 per motor. If I were to run them off battery power, I would use two 12 v batteries in series which would provide the 24 volts. more voltage seems to equal more torque. as the 24 volt motors have some real punch. I did do a 'series' of videos on this if you want to take a look.. here is a link th-cam.com/play/PLO8l70qEp71PVzlkKte8PsuzhqgLL_suv.html
Dave
When i dont isolate the motor, will the H-bridge short out, or the motor?
Good question.. Probably. Since the motors will attempt to travel in either direction. One side will short to ground. I would recommend just getting commercial motors instead of WW motors. Hopefully that helps.. Dave
hi dave im having some trouble my rig is shaking i dont know whats the problem it is shaking alot but i can controll the motor
Can is that in SMC3 or in simtools? SMC3 can be hard to move smoothly in "manual" setting.. Let me know
Would you put together a kit with all necessary parts for purchase???
Thanks for the question. I don't know for sure about that one.. It seems like a good idea but I'm getting a little old for a chasing the $$.. I do appreciate the comments because that's one way for me to get feedback. DMAX
Great Video. Thank you for sharing your knownledge
Thank you. I hope it can help clear up some grey areas .. DMAX
Could this be adapted to utilize 120vac with low voltage transformers instead of the battery?
I'll check with the folks at Xsimulator.net. they would know. My experience is with 12VDC.. Simple and easy. I know there are guys who are running server power supplies with the 12VDC output. When they give me some info, I'll post it here. I'm sure it can work, I just did not go that route to keep it simple. Dave
Hi Dave please help with the electrical connection diagram, I tried following the link but I am struggling to locate and download it. Thank you
Ok.. The basics are here on this x-simulator.net page. take a look here is the link www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/smc3-arduino-3dof-motor-driver-and-windows-utilities.4957/
Thank you for sharing your knowledge I am your student when it comes to building a simulation rig. The work you do really is helpful. If was not living in South Africa and you were close to where I live, you would be my best friend and mentor. I would learn as much as i could from you. Thank you and God bless you.
@@tshepolaka8132 Tshepo.. thanks for commenting.. keep pluggin away.. I have a new vid coming out probably on wedenesday.. hopefully help some people out.. Kudos to you and yours.. Dave
Where can I download that "blink"?
33:36 minute
hi. can you explain the yellow line at the bottom. It is not in PWMmin and PWMmax. I have 3 motors only 1 motor is in PWMmin and PWMmax.help me
Good question.. SO the Yellow line is a representation of the pulses that the arudino is telling the IBT-2 to put out.. so it changes a lot from what I see. I am coming out with a video this weekend which I am messing around with the PWMAX settings.. and the PWMIN.. It's pretty good.. I tried to move things around a lot more in my new video so Yall can see what these things do.. Hopefully it will shed some light on it for you or at least give you the experience to see how these setting affect the motor in real time.. I've been trying to do the new series a bit more slower so people can see what everything does.. Or at least that's my effort.. So May 14th or 15.. All I gotta do is edit the footage and send it.. let me know if you have a chance to watch .. Dave
thank you D Max
I can’t get the motor to move with the smc3 utility I have a 2 wire red and black motor and hall potentiometer connected right
Hello friend, I have this problem. When I turn a potentiometer, both motors work at the same time, and if I turn the other potentiometer the same thing happens. What could it be?
that's pretty confusing for me. somehow both inputs to the arduino a0 a1 are getting the same signal perhaps. Try hooking up only one motor at a time. Connect one. and test, then disconnect it and test the other motor. I've not had that issue before. Dave
I have a problem I can't figure it out please help. It looks like the IBT2 aren't sending out the 12V to move the motors.what I am doing wrong here. I'm connected to a 12v car battery the 12v are going in but they are not coming out the IBT2???
Sorry, TH-cam did not let me know you typed a question.. (not sure why they do this..) BUT lets go over this and get you going. I would connect up ONE motor first and get it working. So start with the Comm port.. What comm port does windows say? Then type that into the SMC3 utlity tool INI file.. (theres only two lines to that file if I remember). Be sure to download and install the ARDUINO sketch next.. With the Arduino Sketch uploaded and the SMC3 utility INI file modified for the Com port, you should be able to start SMC3 and it should see the arduino.. Let me know if you got that far. DMAX
Thanks, excellent video!
Thank you Mr. Joshua! YT did not let me know you commented till now.. Anyway, Yeah I hope you tune in for more.. DMAX
Love your videos, just one little tip... sometimes the background music too much foreground music ;) Which makes it more difficult to hear you ;) Specially for non native english like me :)
Thanks Boy WIlmsen.. Im working on it. I gotta remember things like that when making the videos.. I appreciate you letting me know .. DMAX
@@DMAX_DIY i know, its already difficult enough :) Was also looking into SFX100, but thats already like $2000 for the actuators....
@@boywilmsen3067 Thanks for the comment. I've built like 4 of these and the first one turned out perfect but I really had a time figuring out everything so that's why I did this video. It covers the 'grey' areas which I did not understand until after I built one. Take a look at my 3DOF build.. I used more powerful motors but the same setup as the WW motors ..DMAX
@@DMAX_DIY yeah watched that one too i think, where you started with windshieldwipers and replaced them with stronger ones. What I like about that setup is the yaw, many of them, like the SFX100, seem to be missing that, right?
@@boywilmsen3067 The traction loss motor was the game changer for me.. So much more like a real car.. I run in VR so any tactile movement like TL is super helpful and of course totally awesome. I really like those crab pot motors. But Motion dynamics in Australia makes more powerful 60:1 motors. But they are pretty pricey.. Like $250 ea.. If I build a 6DOF, I'll probably pony up the cash for those cause a 6DOF is not 'resting' on a u-joint like my rig does.. DMAX
1 Year later but not to late .
With the release of GT7 vor PSVR2 on Sony PS5 i was looking for something like your Projects , in this video you talk about the potenziometer and the Chase when you turn it .
This is the PID Controller , right ?
Need to build on .
How many kg can this construction lift ... depend on speed and force ?
Could be that the small one s are enough , because i only use vr , so i can build my Rig much lighter .
Greets
it can get pretty heavy using steel.. i am planning on weighing all the major frames on the new series i am making. yes pid controller. i not sure how much it can lift. but that's a good idea to test.
Hi dave,
small question is it also possible to use the "6127V1A360L.5FS" the 360 version? because the 180 is no longer in stock everywhere
Yeah I'm having the same issue.. I dont know for sure. I may order some 360's and test them.. I would think the 360's will be fine.. cause You are only moving the motors less than 180 anyway.. Let me know I'm frustrated with not being able to order the 180's but FYI the 180's have a 180 'dead spot' so I think the 360's will work. Dave
@@DMAX_DIY hi i got my test version up and running but the range from the 360`s is to big. because of that i can`t setup the max limits for the motors because 255 is half of what the sensor reads. do you know if there is a way to double the sensor reading or multiply it?
@@d33fNL Ok.. so that makes sense about the 360 as opposed to the 180 ones. I would think there is a way to look in the arduino code and see where it reads the sensor. maybe doubling or dividing by 2 might work.. I just checked again and the 180 Pots are still on back order.. I was able to get some 180 degree 10 K pots in one day from amazon so maybe consider that if the code thing doesnt work. Dave
hi Dave
hope you are well sorry to bother but i have a technical question you may or may not have had this..
i connected my transformer to my rectifier and got 26.5 vdc (input says 27v max) coming out when i connect to the ibt2 boards and check voltage again i have 39.9 vdc at the ibt2
have you had this and is it normal?
there were no smells or burning anywhere by the way
many thanks in advance
rico
its a little hot for those IBT2's I think.. BT2 BTS7960B BTS7960 43A Motor Driver Specifications: -
Input Voltage: 6 ~ 27Vdc.
Driver: Dual BTS7960 H Bridge Configuration.
Peak current: 43-Amp.
PWM capability of up to 25 kHz.
Control Input Level: 3.3~5V.
Control Mode: PWM or level.
Weird that the input to IBT is higher than output of rectifier. Is there an adjustment on the rectifier to lower the voltage?
@1:37 I tried to help blow the tiny debris on the paper instinctively.
Yeah. Me too.. If you have time.. I got about 50 videos of this stuff! It will help hopefully DMAX
I really appreciate this!!🇸🇪
Awesome 🔥💯
Thanks 2Purp! I appreciate the look !! DMAX
Hey, I ran into a bit of problem. So I bought all the components i need, and i could also set up the build. However my potentiometers are not the bests for this job. So they can be rotated like 10 times (Vishay Spectrol Precision Potentiometer 534-11203) which means they are really precise, but then it means my motor has to turn like 4 times to get to the Target line in the SMC3.
So everything works fine, except this. The potmeter won't turn enough on its own scale compared to the target motion in the SMC3. Do you guys have any idea how could i scale up the potmeter's values, or any other? Or do I have to buy new sensors? :S
(Totally noob for electricity, but enthusiastic :D)
Easiest way, just order the 180 degree hall effect ones. They can rotate endlessly but only have a sweet spot of 180.. You only use maybe 160 of it maybe 180 if you set up everything perfect.. But yeah if you have to turn it 4 times to get the SMC to the target line, I would either make some type of gear to spin it faster which may be difficult or go on ex simulator.net and ask those guys to help modify the arduino code to make it respond to your pot position. One guy had 360 degree pots and he was able to do it.. however yours may not have a simpler solution other than to order the 180 degree ones.. But after you get them.. your good to go! so let me know what you decide in case someone else has the same issue.. Dave
this video was helpful, thanks!
Thanks for taking a look.. more on the way this month.. I appreciate the comment!
how do you get those wires, is it included with the board or youll have to buy it urself and if so what is the wires called
Good question.. Short answer is no.. wires not included.. you can get 26 guage wire on amazon pretty cheap. The bigger wires - that control the motors are 16 gauge, you can find that a the big home improvement store.. Keep watching the videos, I include as much info as I can remember to include as far as where to get stuff.. etc.. Dave
@@DMAX_DIY thanks for the reply! I am also wondering if the power supply shown in wiring diagram works as its a cctv power supply.
@@ow3nnnh I'm not sure about that.. I found those PS's by trolling around the xsimulator.net forum.. some guys were using them and I thought i could give them a try.. They seemed to do the trick and have not tripped due to overcurrent when I was using them.
how do you get a u joint that big? or how could I search for it?
Great question.. I actually get asked that a lot.. Ok.. so all the cars around you eventually wreck or stop working and end up in Salvage Yards. You just need to find the closest one near your house and go there and ask for a 'driveshaft'.. they will usually have a pile of them.. Be sure to check to make sure the U joints (there will be two of them) are not frozen with rust.. Just make sure you can move them around a bit.. The last one I bought cost $20 bucks US.. It has a u joint near the transmission and another by the differential. Second option - You can buy a complete one on EBAY but it costs a lot more.. (but it's probably brand new).. Let me know if you find have success finding one.. Oh.. They usually come off of most TRUCKS, VANS and CARS that have RWD.. those are the most sturdy ones.. Also.. watch my latest series if you have time .. DAVE th-cam.com/play/PLO8l70qEp71MER1P0D-BBZza_gqzzmgp_.html
@@DMAX_DIY thank you really much
@@VStein28 Yeah.. they are out there.. Just find a slavage yard and ask.. shouldn't be too expensive.. Tell em it's for a truck..
I have been watching your videos for a long time, made various size simulators and now want to go deeper. I'd like to control the simulator directly via an accelerometer (mpu6050).
Alas it is a coding scenario which is beyond me. I thought maybe Rene might be able to assist, unless you know of anyone else who can assist?
Well that's pretty cool.. I dont know that chip but maybe post it up on the x-simulator.net forum. I'm trying to find time to control some sea flow blowers using the IBT but every time I find the 'time' to work on it.. Life happens.. So I'm on pause for now.. Go and see what those guys at x sim may have already done it.. all the best D
@@DMAX_DIY I've done it, there is some fine tuning. I want to build a south African version of the kraken.
@@DMAX_DIY I'm not familiar with sea flow blowers, which video should I watch about it, I will do it for you and send the data
@@pmbguy2212 yeah now your cookin!
My SMC3 don't want to comm with arduino. what can I do to fix this?
Go to system.. Look at the COM ports, plug in the arduino. Write down which COM port it's on. Then In SMC3, go to the SMC3.config file and change the com port to whatever your Arduino is recognized on.. Look at about 30 minutes into this video, I show it there. th-cam.com/video/5Du7pbOSe_Y/w-d-xo.html
@@DMAX_DIY it works, everything is working good now, the problem we had was that the tubing we used to connect the potentiometer to the motor was a little bit lose so it was throwing off the reading on the SMC3 so we replace and everything started working just fine. We are in stand still right now due to a surgery but once we are full recovery we will get back to it. We can wait to have it all done. I personally wanted to thank you for your help and all your videos the are very help full. Thank You again.
@@emanuelortiz3667 Wishing a speedy recovery to your family Emanuel! I'm glad the videos helped and things are working ! Awesome.. Tune back in when you have a chance my friend! Dave
Were you stationed in Nevada?
Well no.. but I've been there.. I was USAF way back in the early 80's.. You in the AF?
@DMAX_DIY I was stationed at Creech AFB until 2011. I am a veteran as well. Thanks for responding!
great video its inspired me to give it a go thank you
Great video
Thanks Mr Henry! I appreciate you taking a look.. I'm still posting new videos on the same stuff so check back if you have time! Dave
I can't believe this. THANKSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
so many have succesfull get motion works with viper motors but why you did not get
good question Mika.. probably cause they were just too weak.. i bought them back in the 1990s and used them for Halloween props.. maybe they had to many hours on them. I did complete an 24v wheelchair setup that worked pretty good also another 12 volt 50:1 build if you have time to look th-cam.com/play/PLO8l70qEp71PVzlkKte8PsuzhqgLL_suv.html
and the 12 volt compact simulator videos are here th-cam.com/play/PLO8l70qEp71MER1P0D-BBZza_gqzzmgp_.html
hat do you call that Potentiometer that has no limit
Hi, that's the Hall effect sensor.. here is a link www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/tt-electronics-bi/6127V1A180L-5FS/2620661
Great video! Maybe could do without the music while you’re explaining stuff but still great, you make it seem much less intimidating!
Thats an old video Deadly Donague.. I have turned off the music on the newer ones.. Just click the channel page.. Lot more new stuff.. less music..
@@DMAX_DIY love to see it, I’ll be starting my build soon so plenty more views or comments are headed your way
@@B58_G20 No problem.. Just ask and I'll try and help out..
how much watt and amber need the PSU for this motors?
and how much watt need the motor?
im having problem with upload smc3 ino to adruino . " error complilation of 'void setup". that will be appreciated anyone can help. thousand thanks in advence.
I dith all setup in your videos .i use ibt2 .all working in smc3 .but in simtools nothing response .all is setup as in your videos .🙃☹️
Make sur the Simtools is set to the same comm port as the SMC3.. And be sure to close SMC3 before starting up SImtools.. Let me know if that helps.
Dave
i like video..
Thanks for watching. Hope it helps.. DMAX
gracias.
Your welcome.. Lot more videos on the channel.. Newer ones too.. Dave
Could you not ground the wiper motor on my frame?
So the whole thing is that you do not want to short your power directly to ground. Both leads of the motor must not ever have continuity to ground.
@@DMAX_DIY thanks for the reply, appreciated.
Thank you so much D-MAX
I'm totally confused with the fact that you tested the motor and it's worked yet at the same time high and low were shorted to ground..??
Now I'm confused.. I perhaps did not present the information very well. The main thing I found with the motors I used was that they were not convincingly powerful enough for my liking. If the motors were bigger, that may have helped. I had like 8 of those motors lying around and always wanted to try them. I can assure you though. I did cut one of the wires to eliminate a path to ground through the motor windings.
@@DMAX_DIY ah thank you for clearing that up, loved the series's
i followed the instructions but i dont know why it crashed and wont boot.. maybe im stupid
God bless you man