#10MinuteTalk
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2022
- Mark Boardman and Erik Barber chat through Erik’s archery life before and after the back bar. Will a back bar make you a better bow shot, or are they another accessory for the bow shop to send you out the door with? I mean, why sell one when you can sell two? It’s no mystery why the word stable is built into the word stabilizer. A stable, steady hold is imperative for executing, accurate, precise, and confident shots. But how many do you need? Do you need a back bar?
As always, we want to hear your feedback! Let us know if there are any topics you'd like covered on the Vortex Nation™ podcast by asking us on any one of our social media platforms and using #VortexNationPodcast.
Follow Vortex Nation Podcast on Instagram:
vortexnationpodcast
Went the back bar route this year and it definitely helps me settle on target a lot quicker. When I draw back and anchor, the bubble level is right in the middle 95% of the time. If I had to guess, my complete shot process from start to finish is probably 6-8 seconds shorter which adds up at the end of the day.
I think the word you missed was moment of inertia. Goal of the side stabilizer is to counter balance the accessories on the other side of the bow. The goal of all stabilizers is to maximize moment of inertia about the multiple axii of the grip within a certain length limitation. Holding weight at full draw is also a factor in the amount of weight forward that is needed. The predominant use of side stabilizers came about after B Stinger changed the game forever and made thick stiff carbon rods. These doubled the inertia of the rod at the same mass. Since the front rod is the same length it became necessary to add a longer rearward facing side bar to balance the bows out. Moving mass from the front to the rear bar. Lots of science goes into archery stabilizers.
Out of any video and explanation I have ever seen on youtube about stabilizers, your comment is the first one to actually explain what they do!
@@test-ve5uy thanks I used to give a presentation on the topic. It’s a lot easier to explain with a whiteboard. It’s crazy to think about but today’s hunting stabilizers provide similar moment of inertia comparable to the long target stabilizers of the past.
This clarifies a lot! Thanks
Got to shoot the phase 4 recently and its a very smooth and quite bow, i went home and shot my V3 and thought yea there a difference.. afterwards i got the allen wrenches out and double check every single bolt and screw, had 3 that were slightly loose, 1 on the vbar, 1 on the spott hogg, and 1 some were else.. then reshot my bow and things quite down alot and definitely helped with the vibration.. also notice and wondered if the monkey tails were causing a touch of vibration since there old... but check your bows before going into a brand new one
Really enjoyed this, should be more of it.
Exactly my concerns and consideration for a back bar. For the up and down pin float and also to help balance out my bow with a quiver full of arrows.
The most important thing when it comes to having a good sight picture is proper draw length. You need to have that right before you mess around with stabilizers. After your draw length is perfect then you can use stabilizers to slow down your pin float. Another problem with pin float is not enough holing weight which is common with a lot of modern bows.
Agreed 100%. Even a couple lbs more holding weight can/will help steady up that pin. After shooting 3-d for months with a scope and 4x magnifying lens then getting out the hunting bow without glass that pin looks dead steady lol. I run front and rear CBE stabilizers and the bow just comes to level bubble and the pin float is so super small. Tried without stabs quite a few shots and it just wasn’t as stable.
My opinion is that it's more about the tuning of your setup and your grip. You can't always predict what terrain you will be standing on and the features under your feet.
But not only a good draw lengthy, which is more about comfort then mathematical perfection. I shoot 1/2" smaller then my math draw weight but that's bc I hate bow slapping my arm. Plus it gives me more flexibility at my waist.
But I have notice a trend of shooters rotating their bow after every shot, not a natural fall but you cam watch their wrist rotate the bow after their shot. That can only mean one thing, your fingers are gripped around the handle, which is causing more pin movement.
This is why a wrist strap is needed. Why are you holding onto your bow, are you expecting it to fly out of your hand? Bc it won't. And never will. With a proper grip, 1 finger is the absolute most you need on the front edge of the grip to hold it in your palm after a shot, you don't need all 4 fingers
I'm new to using a bow, these videos are much appreciated
Great talk. I just added Flatline stabilizers myself.
Been looking at back bars but don’t see the need at the moment since my furthest shot is 40 and personally feel like a rabbit should be scared with me at that range, if I ever get a chance to hunt out west though, would definitely be looking for a bit more stabilization
I run a Mathews V3X 29 and am easily sub 4 inch at 40 yds and 7 inches at 80yds absent any cross winds. Hunting the coast ranges of Oregon and Washington for elk the last think you want is more things hanging off your bow for vines, limbs and branches to get hung up on making more noise. I used to run an Alpine soft lock quiver and branches and vines tore it off while brush busting. Eastern Oregon/Washington I could possibly see some benefit.
On my Mathews V3X 29. I run a back bar. I use Conquest control freak pro stabilizers wt a 12inch up front wt a qd and a Conquest back bar lower mount wt a 10 inch. Both wt 3 oz. I shoot wt my low pro 1pc quiver on. So it balanced out great.
So glad you mentioned how a trigger SHOULD BE SET UP!!! Those people that slap/ punch/ hammer? the trigger with their finger tip will NEVER become an accomplished shooter. People, you need to learn to pull thru that shot . “ bow only outdoors “ has a great vid on setting up a trigger for a totally controlled shot- not punching as you drive by the target
Although your arrow will in fact stick past a front bar, it will only do so until at full draw. This might be obvious but I didn’t fully grasp the affect it made in a hunting scenario until I was at full draw on a 130” whitetail. My front bar got hung up in grass and brush but luckily got the shot off and made an ethical kill. Just something for someone who hasn’t ran a longer front bar to consider.
That's one reason I run either super short stabilizers or no stabilizers at all.....I want nothing hanging out past my sight
Never knew much about back bars before thanks for the video.
PS 35 Rem 10 minute talk? You could have Mr. Muckenhirn compare it to the 350 legend that seems to be taking straightwall states by storm!
10 minutes talk = 19+ lol. For hunting I think so many people believe a back bar isn’t important. The majority of people are satisfied with 6” diameter hits at like 30 yards. A set of front & back stabs CAN help steady up that pin so much people. If you have good holding weight too it will add stability. From my personal testing a lot I’ve found a front & rear bar really helps me so much to steady up that pin. Personally, I am not satisfied with 6” groups at 30 but want 3” 3 or4 arrow groups. With pins and no magnifying lens. The stabilizer use will help you.
Heard a tradlab podcast says compounds shred the shoulder faster than trad bows?
You guys should do a 10 min talk about the 6.5 grendel in AR platform. I've been thinking about building an AR-15 in 6.5 grendel and it's a very interesting cartridge.
th-cam.com/video/9X_HzMYvaUk/w-d-xo.html
I had to read the title 3 times to realize it didn't say "Run a Black Bear with your hunting bow"
I was like, "Damn, that's hardcore AF."
Most hunters are not gonna do this Where did back bars and weighted stabilizers come from? Target shooting which is way different than hunting It doesn’t hurt to have it but most hunters are gonna use a basic hunting setup like we’ve always had These adjustments mostly come from target shooting and they are trying to implement that from target shooting to 3D shooting to hunting They are great and they work for precise shooting but hunting situations are different People have been hunting a long time without them Stabilizing was mostly for dampening vibrations
I run no bars/stabilizers on my bow at all.....I have to get an official wieght but I bet my hole bow without quiver is in the 4lb range and if I could I take even more weight off it
I would hate to see people adding back bars, and using it as a cruch, vs actualy fixing their form and shot routine.
what about a back bar would be a crutch?
@@YA-wr5wd yes back bars should only be used for fine tuning, in my opinion.
“10 minute talk” 19 minutes later…
Just little longer minutes.
The day I hunt out of a tree is the day I'll have a club in my hand
Talks about back tension releases the whole time.. 😴