Great video! It was very helpful for me in replacing injector 2 in a 2003 1.3 (2SZ-FE) Toyota Yaris as the steps are the same as the 1.0. I also bought some upper and lower non-genuine injector seals (genuine were very expensive!) in case any of the seals had perished. I only needed a couple of lower seals so have some spare for next time. One thing I did do was remove the EFI relay in the engine compartment and try to start the engine a couple of times to reduce the amount of petrol remaining in the fuel rail, however, a little did spill from the rail when injector 1 stuck in the fuel rail. The others all came out with the rail.
Thank you. 🙂 You are absolutely right. The simplest method of removing fuel pressure is to remove the power supply to the fuel pump. This is the fuse/relay marked "EFI" in the fuse box in the engine compartment. And then start the engine a few times. If the engine starts, let it idle until it runs out of fuel. There will still be fuel left in the system, but now without pressure.
Hi, glad you noticed. It's actually just a cable tie that has been used to fasten the filter box instead of the bolt that should be there. The cable tie just needed to be cut but was difficult to reach. This means that two bolts and a cable tie hold the filter box on this car - If it works, it works. A new cable tie was actually put in place, but I can now see that that work is not included in the recordings. So that's the explanation. I apologize for the confusion.
Hi, Do we need to program the fuel injectors after replacement? Also I had similar codes like you, I did the replacement of all 4 injectors and now I don’t have those codes but I have a new P0172 rich air/fuel mixture. Do you know what can be the cause of that? Thanks
You can try to reset the fuel trim by resetting the ecu to default values. Switch off the engine and disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery and leave the car without power for 30 minutes. (If you have a radio that requires a code after a power outage, it's a good idea to have the code ready.) Connect the power and start the engine and the ecu will now use the default fuel values from the factory and then adapt the settings again to the nozzles that are now installed. If that doesn't help, there may be other things that require closer inspection. For example, the oxygen censors in the exhaust, etc.
@@smilocom Hi 👋🏼, Thanks alot for responding. I did what you said and went for a drive the car was running good and then again I got the same P0172 but this time with another P0133 code.
P0172 means "System too rich, left bank" and the new fault code P0133 means "Oxygen sensor circuit, low voltage (post-converter sensor, left bank)". It is difficult to say where the error lies in your case, but your new error code points in the direction of a defective oxygen sensor. If it is not, then it could possibly be a faulty mass air flow sensor (MAF) or even faulty spark plugs. It is impossible to tell from here. If you have the possibility to read live data from your car, then it is the best help for troubleshooting. Otherwise, you will just have to guess and replace parts until the error disappears.
@@smilocom I’ve already replaced the spark plugs and yes I have the possibility to read live data. Do you have an idea what data should I look at in particular? Thanks again
Hi, that problem gives you a misfire code? I have a misfire code in 3rd cylinder, the Spark plugs it's ok and coils too, through the spark plug hole, only in 3rd cylinder I see some fluid looks like fuel not oil
Yes, it gave a misfire and O2/fuel mixture warning. In my case the fuel injector was stuck or sluggish and not delivering the correct amount of fuel to the cylinder. Do you only have a single error code or are there other codes related to the fuel mixture at the same time?
Great video! It was very helpful for me in replacing injector 2 in a 2003 1.3 (2SZ-FE) Toyota Yaris as the steps are the same as the 1.0. I also bought some upper and lower non-genuine injector seals (genuine were very expensive!) in case any of the seals had perished. I only needed a couple of lower seals so have some spare for next time. One thing I did do was remove the EFI relay in the engine compartment and try to start the engine a couple of times to reduce the amount of petrol remaining in the fuel rail, however, a little did spill from the rail when injector 1 stuck in the fuel rail. The others all came out with the rail.
Thank you. 🙂
You are absolutely right. The simplest method of removing fuel pressure is to remove the power supply to the fuel pump. This is the fuse/relay marked "EFI" in the fuse box in the engine compartment. And then start the engine a few times. If the engine starts, let it idle until it runs out of fuel. There will still be fuel left in the system, but now without pressure.
Hi!
Did you take something out from behind the air filter housing / you can't see what it is on the video / it wasn't put back in place?
Hi, glad you noticed.
It's actually just a cable tie that has been used to fasten the filter box instead of the bolt that should be there. The cable tie just needed to be cut but was difficult to reach.
This means that two bolts and a cable tie hold the filter box on this car - If it works, it works.
A new cable tie was actually put in place, but I can now see that that work is not included in the recordings. So that's the explanation.
I apologize for the confusion.
@@smilocom I understand, thank you very much for the answer! All the best!
Hi,
Do we need to program the fuel injectors after replacement? Also I had similar codes like you, I did the replacement of all 4 injectors and now I don’t have those codes but I have a new P0172 rich air/fuel mixture. Do you know what can be the cause of that?
Thanks
You can try to reset the fuel trim by resetting the ecu to default values.
Switch off the engine and disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery and leave the car without power for 30 minutes. (If you have a radio that requires a code after a power outage, it's a good idea to have the code ready.)
Connect the power and start the engine and the ecu will now use the default fuel values from the factory and then adapt the settings again to the nozzles that are now installed.
If that doesn't help, there may be other things that require closer inspection. For example, the oxygen censors in the exhaust, etc.
@@smilocom Hi 👋🏼,
Thanks alot for responding. I did what you said and went for a drive the car was running good and then again I got the same P0172 but this time with another P0133 code.
P0172 means "System too rich, left bank" and the new fault code P0133 means "Oxygen sensor circuit, low voltage (post-converter sensor, left bank)".
It is difficult to say where the error lies in your case, but your new error code points in the direction of a defective oxygen sensor. If it is not, then it could possibly be a faulty mass air flow sensor (MAF) or even faulty spark plugs. It is impossible to tell from here.
If you have the possibility to read live data from your car, then it is the best help for troubleshooting. Otherwise, you will just have to guess and replace parts until the error disappears.
@@smilocom I’ve already replaced the spark plugs and yes I have the possibility to read live data. Do you have an idea what data should I look at in particular?
Thanks again
Hi, that problem gives you a misfire code? I have a misfire code in 3rd cylinder, the Spark plugs it's ok and coils too, through the spark plug hole, only in 3rd cylinder I see some fluid looks like fuel not oil
Yes, it gave a misfire and O2/fuel mixture warning. In my case the fuel injector was stuck or sluggish and not delivering the correct amount of fuel to the cylinder.
Do you only have a single error code or are there other codes related to the fuel mixture at the same time?