Toyota Yaris Lack Of Power MiracleMAX
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ส.ค. 2020
- Even though this little Yaris has only a 1.3Lt engine, it is seriously lacking in power. It has been to other mechanics without a solution. What makes matters worse is that it is an intermittent fault.
What is the problem, can it be repaired and what is that actual cause of this intermittent fault?
#AutomotiveEducationalVideos#DiagnosisTraining#OnlineTrainingResource
Disclaimer:
MiracleMAX wants you to be safe, however, no guarantee can be given against improper use or unauthorised modifications on the information provided. The repair shown in this video is carried out at your own risk and any property damage or injury is your own responsibility. Please ensure you carry out this repair safely using approved safe work practices, correct use of recommended tools and equipment. This video is educational only and is no guarantee of a result if done incorrectly. Any injury, damage or loss due to incorrect use of tools, information or equipment is the sole responsibility of the person carrying out the repair and not MiracleMAX.
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You are a real legend and a pure example what a good mechanic should be doing. Thanks for make all the efforts and sharing this helpful video! 👍
You are welcome, thanks for your comment.
You might find some other videos on the channel that might interest you. 👍😉
Good work Max, very detailed and thanks for the run through 🙏👌👍📉📈
Thanks Gerard, it had me scratching my brain for a while, but got there in the end. I learned a lot. 😊
@@MiracleMAX The most difficult ones can be the best lessons :) Well done
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage Yup, you're right. When you have completed them they can be the most satisfying ones..........once they leave the workshop!😁
@@MiracleMAX and don't return 😜😂😂👏👏
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage I agree, that's what I meant! 👍👊👏
Thumbs up, good process, and order of diagnosis. I really enjoyed watching you work through that.
Most dealers would have done the scan, notified their parts team to quote on new catalytic converter (whole exhaust system in this case) and two new sensors and if the customer agreed to spend the $21,000 (a slightly sarcastic exaggeration) they'd bolt em on as fast as possible and send the car out the door. None of this systematical diagnostic business like you achieved.
I appreciate your comment. I love seeing the diagnostic process unfold, replacing or repair a component or wiring and seeing a positive outcome. Very satisfying!
Great work, Max! If you were in the US, you'd be my mechanic! My 2012 Yaris is the BEST auto I've ever owned!!!!
Thanks Patrick,
That's quite a compliment!
Glad you have a good little reliable car. 😉
MiracleMAX
great stuff! it's impressive that you know so much about where the diagnostic parameters should be and can work from there to diagnose the problem. Very impressed.!
Thanks. I have just learned from others and practice, practice, practice. If you have enjoyed what you have seen, consider subscribing for more videos that might interest you.
Thanks for your comment.
Wow, this must bee the best video explanation of exhaust system diagnostic with a scan tool! Thank you so much, now I should be able to understand these values on my Yaris and Nissan Frontier.
Glad it helped JCS. 😊
I don't have those issues but recently bought a Yaris that was overfilled with oil. Will get my garage to drain some out
Great idea!
th-cam.com/video/fVWoKFmNwKA/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX
Excellent work max
Cheers Mate! 😁
Great great video!!! Deep dive and I did learn a lot :)
Hey Oscar Petersson,
Thanks for your comment & I hope you enjoy other videos on the channel. 😉
I have the sports model 08 yaris 1.5 litre with the same mileage and it has exactly the same symptoms except no check engine light, I'll have to look at the cats and o2 sensors next.. thanks miracle max, you certainly live up to your name
Thanks mate,
Let us know how you go.
@@MiracleMAX your video definitely put me on the right path.. I got a $15 ebay usb endoscope to check the cat but luckily it was good so I borrowed a mates snap on scan tool and the pre cat o2 was all over the place.. I replaced it and it's got it's power back and it's not trying to stall on me any more.. I'm fine with old carby petrols and machanical diesels but these new cars are a bit of a learning curve, your videos are a gold mine for people like me who are still learning the new stuff.. thanks mate
@@markshort9098 Thanks for keeping us up to date. I'm glad you had a successful diagnosis and repair.
You've just just got a subscriber in Joburg 👊
Thank you! I hope you enjoy all the videos on offer. 😉
Thanks Max
Thanks mate, I hope the video was helpful
I enjoy watching your vid mate.
I have the same donkey, a 1.3l
Learned a lot to your vid.
Thanks for that, really good vid.
Got a question sir,
Can i replace my engine with a corolla engine or maybe a 1.5l yaris?
Thanks and have a great day a head.
Sorry Dennis, you are asking the wrong bloke. Not my area of expertise.
I guess a 1.5 Yaris would be an option, but you would have to do some research.
very well explained, my yaris or vitz as we call it here in our part of the world, has the exact same issue. did you clean the maf for good measure ?
Thanks for your comment. Some techs clean the MAF as a matter of course, but I didn't feel the need at that point as the data was correct.
You need to do more videos on electrical diagnosis on cars/motor vehicles.
Hey Shel Dock,
I currently have 122 videos on automotive repairs. Here is the link to the playlist.
th-cam.com/video/DWoac466iOQ/w-d-xo.html
Make sure you subscribe so that you don't miss any future videos that might interest you.
Thanks for your comment.
Tricky one max the over filling of the oil without doubt destroyed the cat and sensor over time. Good job bud
Hey Ian,
I think this vehicle had this issue for some time before he serviced it, as the mechanic replaced the filter and then the pump later on. The service was done after that, but yes, you are right, overfilling of the engine oil will contribute to a damaged cat.
I don't know if this was regularly serviced by the other mechanic with overfilling of the engine oil before it came to me and that would have created the problem too.
Im currently on a very very similar path, had my cats welded in like you did, and did everything basic service, and now ordered new sensors as acting very dodgy 😅😁
Hey DeGingerNinja ,
Thanks for your comment. Let us know how you go! 😉👍
my solution was obtaining a manual transmission Yaris
I had a SR5 back in 1987, the slight incline road issue was insufferable and I soon found out a manual transmission of this same type never presented any issue like that.
Learning how to actually drive an automobile ought to be strongly recommended
Thanks for your comment! 😊
Good evening very helpful this video and could say I learnt a lot. However i would you to help me with my case, i have a yaris 2006 manual 180.000kms recently service done (general)so the car is fine driving around but after hitting the freeway for 30 mins or so and stop for traffic light or traffic sometimes began stalling, last time i let go without accelerating to see that happens, and the car went off and the check light came on, i checked the code manually with a wire on pin 4 and 13 and the code is number 26, which is rich air fuel ratio. Last night I checked the o2 sensor before cat and the heathers still have resistance and i got voltage on the signal wire between 0.1-0.7 in idle. So assuming the sensor was ok I cleaned the maf sensor and the throttle body (was really dirty it couldn’t open free and easy) anyway I think it help and I try the car today and has been fine. But still having my concerns about power I can notice a bit of lack of power also the acceleration doesn’t ramp smooth.
I am gonna check the sensor post cat tomorrow and hopefully is burnt and can fix the hole thing, but if the o2 sensor post cat is ok what could you recommend me to do? Please
Thanks
Hey juan Manuel Rueda,
Let's start with the basics. Here are a few questions to look in to.
Is the air filter clean?
You said the MAF sensor was dirty. When these get dirty & do not read correctly, they may tell the ECU that more air is entering the intake system than there really is and therefore the ECU will inject more fuel to provide what it thinks is the correct Stoichiometric Ratio. The Toyotas do suffer from failed MAF sensors and they are not very expensive to purchase. Here is one I tested on a Toyota Echo.
th-cam.com/video/PMg50o_fhXQ/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX
If the throttle body was very dirty, they will jam and create stalling issues. Sometimes you need to reset the ECU settings after a clean. You might be able to do that by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes or so. Just keep in mind that if you have a radio with a security code on it, you will need to re-enter the security code to enable your radio again.
At 180,000 km if the O2 sensors are original, I would consider replacing them. Do you you have a scan tool? An O2 sensor should oscillate at least one time a second at idle. When they heat up, they my get slower & log a fault code. Can you see any long and short term fuel trims?
I would start with these first.
MiracleMAX
Also have same car with this issue
Hi mate can you please put the link for the exhaust system I’ve the same problem with my car after a misfire I don’t have any engine light, but I cleaned everything as you can, replaced spark plugs, ignition coils etc etc and I’m thinking is the catalytic converter, car don’t have same power or response that it had before that misfire cylinder thanks to a damaged ignition coil.
Hey Valentin,
I ended up taking it to a local exhaust shop & they ended fitting generic ones. What are the O2 sensors reading? Have you checked that section of the video? Can you lower the exhaust and check for physical damage of the converter?
Hi Max thanks for the video. I have a problem with my Yaris 1.33 2009. I have a P2196 code oxygen sensor stuck rich bank 1 sensor 1. Now the engine light only comes on between December till February the cold winter months then stays off for the rest of the year once i clear it. I wanted to ask first where is this sensor located. Is it on the bottom left where the battery is next to the Exhause manifold heat shield cover? And Is it worth me changing the Oxygen sensor? The car runs fine other than it cuts off sometimes when i come to a stop at a traffic light?
Hey EJ,
The #1 sensor is just further upstream. Here is a link. Even though it says #2 sensor, you would be looking for the Pre- O2 sensor - the first one in the exhaust.
partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=Toyota&ssd=%24%2AKwGhlYS98OLYxMnz5O2MkfntzcrUpaqnprSqmOiw4bapsM-15ua7saih6e3n_POKv_rw-_G2qaa5taytvLGot6ynoqS15uax_bCvtqumoqf88Zqx7-vi-vbV7OitrLGot8La3Le76K2rsai33sfW3sDz9uvLoqClp6Ogpfvm9LHx9rapsKSm-Pfqo7C5tv7xt63oipvDq6XGvtPd2piPibG-t_L69ret-_T0seT2tqmwpqb_k_ruAAAAAFdG6xU%24&vid=0&cid=2&uid=5031&q=JTDKW923X05141521
How many kilometres has the engine done? The O2 sensors are actually a maintenance item & should be replaced 80 - 100,000 Km, although post people don't.
Do you have a scan tool with fuel trims available? If so, what are the readings - both short term and long term at idle and at 2000 RPM?
Is your air filter clean. Do you have any air leaks that could create false readings to the ECU?
Can you see if the front O2 sensor readings are oscillating? What are the MAF readings?
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX Thank you for your reply. The car has done 75k miles. Yes I have a scantool and I will have a look at the readings soon and let you know. Yes all the filters are clean as it’s just been fully serviced back in October 2020. I dont think thers any air leaks. Could it be that its happening because I drive the car short distance locally. I hardly get the car to optimum temperature. Thank you.
@@IbzJaay19 Best to get some data first, but O2 sensors do play up, but at the same time, they may just reporting a very rich mixture. This could be due to a misreporting MAF sensor as well. So we need that data too.
@@MiracleMAX Thank you. As soon as I get a chance il get the readings and let you know.
Hi Max thanks for your video. I have a similar Toyota Yaris 2007, 1.3l … having similar type issues, I have replaced spark plugs, cleaned maf sensor, new air filter cleaned throttle body. System threw out a variety of errors - symptoms very similar to what you are describing. Was intermittent issue took to a mechanic told me it was ecu failure. I did Obd2 scan have a code - P0133 sensor 1 bank 1 - was wondering the location of that sensor to check it out? Is that the sensor that is where the passenger sits or is sensor 1 pre cat located somewhere else? I’d take my car to you but Im in Adelaide any help would be great seem to have a lot of mechanics that are not good with diagnosing issues.
Hey Carlos,
Easiest way to determine O2 sensor 1 (pre-cat) is just to look for the first one. Follow the exhaust path from the head. It looks like it might be in the exhaust manifold before the flange.
@@MiracleMAX Hi Max, thank you...
I was able to find it problem was the back part of the engine has a cover and the sensor was being covered by that. I put camera and I was able to find it. Thanks again. Will pull it off tomorrow and put my diagnostic camera in there to see if everything is ok. Thanks
@@503carlos Well done! Let us know how you go
@@MiracleMAX took me a while my Yaris had a heat plate or some sort of cover over the back of the engine and was covering the o2 sensor. Easy to take off 10mm bolt x 3 but the one closest to the firewall was rusted was very hard to get. Eventually got that no o2 sensor off. Inside looked ok. Put a new one in now car is running as good as ever. Thank you for your videos and your help. The mechanic I took it too told me yeah your car has ecu issues you need a new ecu take back to Toyota … yeah ok!
my toyota yaris 2005 when is cold is driven ok but its idle is not normal ,when it get warm it looses power more on the ascending road ,and the check engine light comes on,,,, i took it for diagnose error code was p0010 i have that sensor replaced but still does that.
Hey tumelo aggrey
Welcome to the channel.
The code P0010 refers to - Camshaft Position 'A' Actuator Circuit Bank 1.
What sensor has been replaced?
Since this refers to the VVT actuator circuit, faults can include:
- Dirty Oil
- Faulty variable valve timing (VVT)
- Variable Valve Timing (VVT) circuit is open or shorted
- Damaged wiring
- Oil Control Valve (OCV) circuit is open or shorted
- Faulty oil control valve (OCV)
- Damaged ECM
Some of these systems use a little gauze filter in the oil circuit and these can get clogged, not allowing the oil to pass through and advance the timing, causing a lack of power and the Check Engine light to come on.
Cheers
MiracleMAX
Being a Yaris, a few K's driving would have lowered the oil level nicely... :-)
Great point!
Hi Max. I saw your video and I have to say: perfect! However I can not find our if my oxygen sensor if wrong or not. I have Yaris 1,33 VVTi with 74 kW but there is (in my opinion) massive leak of power. The voltage on the sensor O2S1 is more than 3,4 volts! What would be your advice? Thanks a lot man. Best regards from Slovakia.
Do you have any fault codes? If that was a true reading, the vehicle would most likely not run. Are you reading the sensor wire or the 5 volt reference? Do you have any symptoms? What are the short term and long term fuel trim readings?
@@MiracleMAX Thanks Max for your answer. There are no fault codes. Problem is the car is running lazy and there is leak of power. So I started to check the datas with my OBDII... I can´t give you the answer for the long and short fuel trim because I am only a guy learning more about the cars from the youtube videos. :) But I will check it.
Here is my video from the measuring: th-cam.com/video/QBJXZvQBlvw/w-d-xo.html
Today I checked the voltage direct on the sensor by running motor and the result was 0,05V (with and without the gas). 👌
@@otoschuchmann8709 Are you sure you are on the correct wire? How many wires does the sensor have? What are the colours? What colour wire were you on when you got 0.05V?
@@MiracleMAX Yes, I am sure. There are 4 wires. 2x white, gray and black. 0,05V were measured between gray and black by running motor (ca. 10 minutes after start). The resistance between two white wires has been 5-5,4 Ohms.
Has the correct sensor been fitted? An Oxygen Sensor or an Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor?
This video might help
th-cam.com/video/34cNb8GJ5RA/w-d-xo.html
Good day Sir I'm driving a toyota yaris 2005 1.3 when I'm eccelarating it makes a loud noise but it doesn't travel the speed it surpose to be on that moment its like theres no enough power what colud be the problem
What sort of noise - air? Exhaust? Does it have any fault codes? Is the exhaust system clear of any blockages? Is it damaged, like shown in the video?
Hang on, that's the best feature of my Yaris, the lack of power!
I believe they came standard from the factory that way! 😉😁👍
I have a similar issue with my Yaris 2008. It vibrates when stopped and losses power when trying to accelerate. It has also stalled few times. We took it to different mechanics but nobody can say what's wrong, however one gave me the codes shown in the computer ( P0301- P0305). This mechanic suggested to take it to a auto electrician. According to the auto electrician the fuel pump needed to be replaced cos something was cutting out or lossing pressure, he also suggested cleaning the injectors. The car drove well for few days after this was done, but didn't fixed it. My Yaris is still vibrating and stalling. Do you have any clue what can be wrong?
First of all, I'd like to say 'it's raining cats and dogs', thanks for reaching out.
The motto of my channel is 'Making The Complex Simple'.
I'm afraid that it seems that the mechanic and auto elec, forgot the basics.
What I mean is the fault codes.
P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
The number at the end of the code represents which cylinder number, in this case #1.
I seriously doubt that you would have had a P0305, because the Yaris is only a 4 cylinder.
Firstly you need to establish what is causing this code.
Faults could include:
Faulty spark plug 1
Clogged or faulty fuel injector 1
Faulty ignition coil 1
Fuel injector 1 harness is open or shorted
Fuel injector 1 circuit poor electrical connection
Ignition coil 1 harness is open or shorted
Ignition coil 1 circuit poor electrical connection
Insufficient cylinder 1 compression
Incorrect fuel pressure
Intake air leak
Since you are getting codes for all cylinders, it is possible that you could have an air leak, causing a lean mixture, creating a misfire, which would explain why it is not isolated to a single cylinder. A intake system smoke test should be carried out to find if there is a vacuum leak.
If the fuel pump is not providing the correct volume and pressure, this again, can create a lean mixture. Has the fuel pump actually been tested with a fuel pump gauge, including volume?
Another similar fault can be created by a faulty MAF sensor. This may lie to the ECU, telling it is getting the incorrect amount of air for the ECU to mix with the fuel via the injectors. A simple test you should be able to do with your Yaris should be the same as this Toyota Echo:
th-cam.com/video/PMg50o_fhXQ/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX
When were the spark plugs replaced last? Is there tracking on the inside of the ignition coils? Similar testing can be done like I did with this Hyundai:
th-cam.com/video/G_08QHHxdyA/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX
These are just some of the components that need to be TESTED to diagnose the fault, not just throw parts at it.
I hope that has given you some direction to find the fault & carry out a successful repair.
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX thanks a lot for your help. I can't allow myself to have a car and not knowing anything about it. Cheers mate!
@@a.t9837 You are welcome!
I hope you find the fault 😊
Hi sir i have 2014 Toyota yaris 1.5 when Wether is hot after diving around 25 kilometres idle go very low and engine stop some time starts engine but when press fuel there is no power 10to 12 seconds also there is no code or no engine light please
Have you checked for fuel pressures when it plays up? What are the fuel trims & O2 sensors like during this time?
My yaris has a rough idle and no power up hills , almost got hit a few times trying to pull out of traffic, put it to the floor it just sits there sometimes
Hey Scottland Mckinnon
,
What testing have you done so far?
@@MiracleMAX well i checked the intake for carbon deposits. Cleaned it anyways , it has a check engine light but no one will scan bc of the Corona, so it's really a guessing game for now , but i honestly believe it may be the cat stopped up , but I dont believe so bc it revs fine in park and no black smoke from running too rich so kinda confusing really , maybe the vvti filter but idk if it would make it do that or not
@@sirsendit9770 Is your vehicle the same as above - year, engine size, etc? How many kms? Manual or Auto?
Can you just disconnect the exhaust before the cat & then rev it? Just keep in mind the vehicle in the video above ran fine until 20 kms up the road.
Have you done all the basic checks shown in the video? Another possibility could be a faulty MAF sensor. A little difficult to help diagnose without data from a scan tool. If you disconnect the MAF, does it improve or change the symptoms?
It could also be a fuel issue. Has the vehicle had regular maintenance? Air & fuel filters?
MiracleMAX
@@MiracleMAX auto 1.5L 291,000 miles , have not tried to undo the exhaust yet. I'll try that this weekend and see , and it does it after about 10 mins from start , well maybe from start but I'm easy on it till it warms up , fuel pressure is good , has a new filter coils and plugs
@@sirsendit9770 What was the fuel pressure readings?
Also as stated, consider the MAF sensor.
what is that Diagnostic Electronic thing?
Do you mean the G Scan 3?
@@MiracleMAX I’m not sure 🤔- the main piece of diagnostic equipment you use throughput this video ?
@@miscgloryofficial4527 Yep, that's the one! 👍
What will make the engine go off it self while driving Is a toyota yaris 2008
Wow Richard, that could be heaps of things! Let's start with the basics.
How many kilometers has the vehicle done?
Are the battery and alternator in good condition? Does the ECU have any stored fault codes?
Has the vehicle been serviced regularly? Does it shudder and shake before it stalls? Does it cut out at higher RPM or just idle, perhaps when you come up to traffic lights?
Does it blow excessive smoke out the exhaust? If so, what colour?
Does it lack power? What RPM does it idle at?
Does the engine start straight away after it stalls?
I have a problem with my Yaris it doesn’t have power at all when I jump the hump I have to go back to grear number one 😨😨
Jump the hump???
My 08 yaris dies and struggles each time get gas over half tank, and stalls out when reaches 60 kilo, and shuts off as soon come to a stop
Hey Jermaine West,
Does it have any fault codes? What tests have you done so far?
@@pablojimenez5736 how do I clean evap, canister line, and car also miss fires and I have change plugs, ckean injectors also coils are working
did you prove the VVTI was not frozen. like my echo was, yes 100,000km, on idle cam- thanks mechanic
Hey Steven,
The information from the pre and post O2 sensors pointed to the correct diagnosis - the catalytic converter.
Glad you were able to pinpoint your fault. Did you mean the intake cam?
@@MiracleMAX the echo only has vvti on intake, think about it, i am a gentle driver, ( wedding cars owner/driver 27 years) to get a power i dropped overdrive back to 3rd gear automatic, to climb hills etc, you showed us a broken cat' seems to me the customer was heavy footed on the gas trying to get power, when in fact i would point at the VVTI not working properly- might even have oil sluge in the VVTI head gear , .... my echo was second hand, I got it 100,000km - at 200,000km, i found out what VVTI was supposed to do, and I got the VVTI to work after forcing the engine with extreme driving in 2nd gear, I now have VVTI action
@@stevenolsen6360 Well done. A lot of issues with VVT is either incorrect oil or incorrect service intervals
@@MiracleMAX incorrect by first owner, maybe, but not with me, all by the book, and no code- engine check light either, so much for the I in VVTI = intelligent
Hi Max, I have a similar problem with my Toyota Yaris 2010, I would like that you fix it for me, can you pls send your workshop address.
Where are you located?
@@MiracleMAX Hampton Victoria
@@carendmore1894 Sorry, I'm in NSW
This car have 2 oxygen sensor ?
Yes mik mik,
I showed it here on the scan tool
th-cam.com/video/ivd45EMrzGA/w-d-xo.html
MiracleMAX
Thanks I have NSP120 1NRFE i can only see 1 sensor on manifold
How can we found out nos of oxygen sensor and location
@@mikan4216 What year is the Yaris and the engine size?
@@MiracleMAX its 2012 1NRFE and i think pre and post however i am struggling to get the correct check via TORQUE may be techstr3am
i bet it was Indian courier driver
Nah, just someone who didn't look at the consignment note properly! The main problem was that when I finally got the exhaust, it was the wrong one!!!
Just delete the cat.
Hey Alex77au,
Thanks for your comments.
While your suggestions may be what is considered the ideal solution, as a technician and business owner, I can not do or recommend these sort of repairs as they are illegal due to emission standards.
The Catalytic Converter is used to help reduce nitrogen oxides, unburnt hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide gasses being released into the atmosphere which helps create smog and acid rain that damages our environment.
I appreciate your thoughts.
MiracleMAX