Do you have a favorite resin printer that you can suggest? I was thinking about pledging to the Trench Crusade kickstarter to get all of their digital minis, but I don't have a 3d printer yet. Thanks for all the great videos!
@@OnceinaSixSide I'd be careful with an F tier. That could be a real lightning rod. Save it for "there are errors in this file that make it practically unprintable." For instance, I make proxies for Battletech. Sometimes a part will look fine and I'll run it through a repair cycle and a Boolean will have screwed up in a non-visible way that isn't fixable outside of modeling work in blender (Which is why I test print everything). If a model comes out that is not fixable without that level of effort, more work than is reasonable for the average user, F tier.
@@parallaxgames I totally get what you're saying, but I worry that B tier is basically that right now. We've got good granularity on the positive end already with S, and A, but poor granularity on the sour end with just B. Having a second tier down there would lessen the blow of a B rating, and better draw a distinction between releases with some issues versus those that are straight up unprintable.
Thanks again for covering my model, I appreciate it!! -As for the supports on it, they are now fixed as I had them properly pre supported by two professionals. Hopefully the same can happen for the full release of the set but we will see.
Add another tier in order to spread things out more. Give yourself some extra room at the top so that you can make the really stellar models stand out, like the support scarring should be a question that drops something down to an A tier from S. If it's otherwise great but you have to file off or fill the scars, then it isn't perfect. Drop your current "B" tier to "C".
As a resin printing newbie looking to leverage minirater: S: Print and forget. A: Basically print and forget. Requires very minor user input and basic printing knowledge. B: Requires user input and solid printing knowledge (beginner cutoff). C: Requires dedicated user input and significant printing experience. D (F): Not worth any time, effort or money.
I think Minirater doesn't need more granularity, per se, but a rating for results. Because, honestly, I don't care if the designer used autosupports, or if there are errors that still print fine. I only care if it prints correctly, without failure. So, consider a "printability rating", as a percent or grade, that would tell me at a glance how likely the files are to fail or not.
Great video! I use Minirater all the time and extra detail for the ratings along with more intuitive tier names would go a long way, imo. Thanks for sharing!
I think minirater could use a question about noticeable scarring and one if it was easy to remove the supports. Maybe one more tear between B and A that says "it prints well, but has some small annoyances during post processing", If you want to go the full mile!
Love this format, going through STLs and rating. It’s great to listen to your thought process on what you’re thinking and where failures could and do happen!
Maybe add a + and - with some more granular options. Like you can have A-, A and A+ Make it "Advanced options". So you can still do the simple rating of A,B and C or you can be more granular with the additional + or -
Smuggler Boutique should definitely be getting at least an A Tier rating IMO. Out of scope for this video, but Smuggler Boutique's minis are also an INCREDIBLE painting experience, S Tier for me. Skulltown are also great, but the size and depth of Smuggler Boutique's faces really elevates the orciness.
This sort of video with the extra details and discussion is so useful. I'm an FDM guy for years and am thinking about trying resin so this is absolutely fascinating to me.
Awesome video! I for one love seeing "how the sausage is made" to get a better understanding of the topic and what I might be doing wrong or incorrectly assuming, etc.
I really wish I had a use for all these minis in everybody’s patreons. I already have a massive backlog of unprinted and unpainted models from just 2 patreons 😅
Another thing about MrModulOrk is that the .lys files are pretty important because you need to scale the model down if you want them to fit as boys for popular war games. They come with a scaling guide and the presupports are designed to be recalculated on scaled down models. Works great!
MrModulork, Smuggler Boutique, Skulltown Minis and Bluesky Minis are my go-tos for greenskinned goodness. Gorgeous models that come out perfect on my Saturn 4 every damn time. Can't recommend these guys enough.
I had the same issue with the cones of calibration using a Saturn 8K and "Siraya Tech Fast ABS-like Resin." To get all the cones on the success side, I had to massively overexpose the print, like 4.5 seconds. Using these settings, the supports were fused on, lol. Using the "Boxes of Calibration," I found the best settings at 2.5 and never had an issue printing decently supported files.
Granularity could be achieved by having different 'scales' or 'sliders' that combine for the overall rating. For example: file organization/type presence could be '-'/'minus', flat, or '+'/'plus'. Using this I would imagine supports would fall under: unsupported=red, pre-supported w/ scarring=orange, overly pre-supported=yellow, 'perfect' pre-supports=green.
Txarli Factory has their bases supported just like the one from smuggler's boutique here, and it is blooming incredible, even their toppered basses have that style of support with pillar supports only used as necessary
You mentioned adding a few more questions to minirater, you could also add "Did you need to reprint these models for better quality?". I'd also add two more tiers, C and F. B tier would become "this will take effort to fix or remove supports, but it's doable", C tier would become the new B tier for models that don't fall into A or C, and F would be "these models can't be saved"
That 'new' base support I first saw in the ""'Grand style Ten Three thousandth""' community, almost all of the multi-mini bases were done in that way over on cults. They're such a better way to do it
Great video as always! For Minirater, adding one or more extra tier could be helpful. I also value some stuff more than others. - There's all the before printings stuff that are nice to have, convenient things (files organization, renders, and extra files like lychee or chitu files, etc.) - Then, I ask myself is there supported files, and how do the supports looks (islands, etc). - Finally, once printed, hows does it look? Best tier here is a near perfect print with no or minimal clean up. Then a lesser tier, printed file but with a bunch of scarring or small failures. And then a fail tier, where the mini just breaks while removing supports, is just not removable or just didn't print!
For things that are not accounted for in your scale you could give it - or + depending on if it was a good or bad thing. Auto supports make it a b- instead of a B etc.
I subbed last month for your thumbnail. Best $5 I've ever spent on an STL. As far as Ork creators, check out Solar STL. He's just starting, but I like his designs. He does mostly Orky vehicles and walkers.
I had issues with not great supports the last few weeks, which sucks because I get limited time to print and I dont want to spend it reprinting failed parts. Lets just say I had several "Big'uns" bodies that were failing on the arms, Axes that were failing, and a shaman whose tusks did not print. The sculpter is usually pretty good. But I had to go in and support not just the under supported arms and tusks but some of the original supports for good measure.
Instead of Tiers do a sliding scale for how easy it is to get the minis onto the tabletop. You could do it out of 5 or 10 and just have it more gradual rather than using rigid tiers. More questions will help with this scoring system as well, where each one will either add or deduct points from the scale. If you did it as an end result of #/10, each model could start as a 5, and each question deducts or adds points to the scale, with total and absolute complete failures resulting in less than a 5.
The biggest problem with that system is that not all questions have the same value, for example does it have minor error on the slicer should not be worth the same as does it leave scaring on the mini or if some support ends have disconnected. That would mean that an oversupported mini that leaves a lot of scars coud still potentialy get a 9 out of 10 @@OnceinaSixSide
Was hoping to see some DakkaDakkaStore orks in this, oh well, their loss. Skulltowns' prints also do well on FDM. Had a lot of fun painting thier Blade Master mini.
I always print out TableFlip's original v1 Puck, I think only available on their discord now, as the practical conformation print to compliment the Cones any time I do a calibration. The left arm of Puck is supported to be a indicator of tip separation and pancaking. Also thats the first time I've seen the continuous supports in the wild so thats neat. You can sort of ape the effect in lychee using inline supports with a really tight spacing
For real, I can't wait til we have a solid auto supports engine. Someone needs to hurry up and feed a neural net a shit load of high quality lys files to analyze
I wonder, if you it would be possible for STL creators, get a badge or something that can add to their models page so that they can highlight that it is an Stier rated mini.. and then people would be able to have some confidence when buying the model.
Great video lad! I see this is what you meant when you said you calibrated the PAS10 resin for other printers! lol Print farm videos incoming? :D I had the same thought when I seen the scarring from those supports, not many people choose to have sphere tips on their supports and by standard on lychee at least it uses no tip. Mezgike is da best Ork Boi though and the presupportist (is that a word?) really goes through it with a fine comb and is a top bloke as well. Keep the videos coming!
Thank you for all your hard work, I have learned so much from your content. I have a GK 2 and use Sunlu ABS Like and I have tons of cool prints for my rpg game table....
Much good information here. I do presupports for some patreons and myminifactory tribes and can maybe shed a bit of light on some of this. Many customers don't make all that much money, especially when just beginning so they want to cut costs as much as possible. This means that often times they will not test print the files or ask for the files to be test printed. Some only test a couple of files and some test 100% of the files. There is always a balance between success rate and how easy the supports are to remove and while for most cases an experienced person doing supports will have it just right 99% of the time but it can happen that the tips should be just a tiny bit bigger. This could happen even if it was test printed due to different resins and printer calibration. EDIT: the cost cutting some do is not just to make more money, they seriously can't afford it and I've seen people do their best with the models but still not make enough money to stay afloat. So don't be too harsh.
You're not wrong. When I did it myself professionally the pay was shit for how much work went into it, and the test printing cost a small fortune in resin (albeit the cheapest most garbage resin I could get in bulk) so I totally get it. It never feels great judging these things, but I do believe it has a net positive effect on the industry.
@@OnceinaSixSide Oh I agree we do need to speak about how well the work is being done. I got into it only because I was frustrated so many presupports were just done badly and I ended up supporting the files that were supposed to already be supported so many times. But since then presupported files have been getting better.
Yeah, I don't bother with pre-supported files. With pre-supports, almost half the time something on a plate fails causing the need to reprint or worse, clean and repair the vat. I use chitubox auto support on fine and then add some mediums. I rarely have problems with the auto-supports.
One gripe I always have is that nobody provides good guides on what part totals you need to finish a mini and I'm usually left to guess based on the MMF preview image and opening all of the unsupported files to find what I need. Images of built out models with stl file callouts would be nice or an array of all parts in a category all lined up
your z height looks to be about 1mm low on that, check the height of the block on the cones (should be 6mm unless you have an old cones version they say the measurement on the side) and the overall height up to the top text should be 10mm. Also if you can't get cones while DA make sure you aren't going too fast 3>3mm height 60>180 180>60mm/min is usually a good safe setup
Oversupporting is a very annoying problem to encounter. I just got a bunch of totally fantastic Space Dwarf minis a recent Kickstarter and I have to go in and redo all the supports. The presupports definitely don't fail, but they're so thick and so plentiful that I needed to use clippers and a hobby knife to remove supports and I still had multiple breakages on the one plate I've printed thus far. If I had to guess, they're probably playing it too safe and assuming the end user is printing the models massively underexposed or far too fast, but I don't think the tradeoff of guaranteeing a successful print under garbage settings is worth making support removal a nightmare.
Really enjoying Mr Modulork. I'm printing off his WARG files for an imperial guard proxy. There were some tiny issues with them so far - mostly just I hate vehicles that don't have keys to fit together, so you're awkwardly holding tracks to the side of the tank but they're awkwardly floating. A few pieces that printed but don't sit perfectly flush, but hey, close enough. Tiny bit of greenstuff and it's fine. Gotta admit, as simple as it is I'm glad that they truly are modular - can mix and match kits within each range, but also from other ranges. Can make an interesting character with that. Also yeah, you really should have more varied ratings. I'd assume a B-tier mini is still a good file, but it could be absolute garbage with your rating system.
Nice video, thanks for investing all that time! One thing that stood out to me was your rating of the islands at 6:18 There is an obvious island right next to the one you pointed out as being well supported. Why didnt you just run the lychee island detector? I know its not as good as the UV tools one but still it would have gotten at least that one
I'm a big fan of Malicous Minis. I use their heads for everything I do when I "need" a print from someone else. I've had a hard time supporting their minis myself, though, honestly. I'm no support savant or anything.
3:30 while printing the cones of calibration, I got a pretty big different result for ideal exposure time printing the cones using an exposure range finder like the anycubic one and printing the cones one at a time and modifying the exposure as I went. The ones printed one at a time gave me a result about one second lower than the range exposure finder. I was able to take this exposure setting and print a full size titan with minimal print failure that, usualy the fault of my bad supports. Curious if anybody had similar result to mine.
Other tiers and feedback systems may just clutter minirater honestly. My recommendation would be to add tags or something similar for the reviews; that way those of us who know can identify whether files were auto-supported, which kind of files were included, or other finer details like that. Also support scarring could be noted
to be honest, I think the puppetswar presupports are an ongoing issue. I have my settings on my saturn 4 ultra dialed in perfectly, and I had 4 failed prints in a row of his "mikey" TMNT orc, with the model splitting horribly at the neck every single time
Is there a video on the current printer enclosure & ventilation setup? It looks like a grow tent maybe? I’m trying to put together a good setup for my office so I can be in the room while the resin printer is running
Im disappointed in you, man. I started watching your channel with the imperial guard combat patrol print, and not once in this video did you go "THE CONES OF CALIBRATION!" voice effect. Damn.
System definitely needs some refinement. I would argue I would rather see a B tier like MaliciousMinis or Puppetswar than an A tier like Lucas with a C every time. With MaliciousMinis its simple to add 3 or 4 more supports after a failure. With Lucas, yeah I have a print but from all the scarring I'm pitching it and now I have to re-support the entire model its a worst case scenario for me, maximum waste and maximum effort.
Could be cool to have a video where u deep dive how u approach mini supporting. Ive been doing supports for a few years now but im sure i way overkill it😅 and i know those who really know what they are doing get away with alot less supports that still some how hokd but break away super clean, its black magic i swear😂
Hey what kind of tent are you using for your printers? I have a pretty good air evacuation setup in my house but i would love to be able to use the room while im printing 😂
hi @OnceinaSixSide I wanted to ask you if you have any recommendation for a printer using this Blackfriday deals? i have a Saturn S but rarely works.. found out recently it has a warped plate an that's why I can only print like half the times. if you can provide some feedback I would appreciate it Cheers m8 and keep up the good work
My top pick this year is the M5S Pro followed by the Saturn 4 Ultra if you can tolerate the really bad build plate design. For smaller printers though the Mars 5 Ultra or new Mono 4 Ultra (neither of which I've tried yet btw) both look great. The thing all these printers have in common which I think is a must have feature is the load sensor that can detect rogue debris and resin runout.
@@OnceinaSixSidethank you for your reply so anycubic will be 😁 Can I also request you opinion on a wash and cure and a resin to use for wargaming? I was using my old original anycubic wash and cure , and the Elegoo 8k grey Cheers m8
Hmmm, remind me to send you my First World War, steam boiler enhanced armoured perambulator that only looks a bit like an Imperial Night when you squint a bit. Sorry but everything you have shown me is novice in comparison so far. Imagine a Resin 3D Print that you would mistake for a kit..
It's really disappointing to hear you criticise supporters for supports coming away from the models after you noted yourself that you calibrated to dimensional accuracy, rather than tensile strength. In honesty it's far better for a supporter to support for dialled in tensile strength rather than dim accuracy as it's going to be far more consistent a baseline... given calibrating to dim accuracy across different resins can perform wildly differently in their mechanical strength during printing. I don't feel the claim you should support for the worst case is really valid. What do you take as the "worst case" to allow for? I would bet there are people out there who have poorly dialed on resin that would struggle with your prints to... and that's be there problem. At this stage in resin printing I think it is on users to understand calibration & the difference between dim accuracy & mechanical strength, and to expect problems if they only dial in to dim accuracy. While I'm moaning - imo, minor errors really shouldn't affect ratings unless the errors actually affect the printing.
I hear you, and I appreciate the feedback a lot. The thing is the parts that failed to print weren't properly anchored to the build plate. Best example is the failed arm on the Puppetswar model: it only had light non load-bearing supports placed on it, whereas that model's other arm had appropriate larger supports sufficiently anchoring it to the build plate. It's just an oversight but the presupportist, and not related to the print settings here at all as demonstrated by the rest of the print being perfect where appropriate anchoring was used. It never feels good to give bad ratings, especially on presupports which let's be honest is usually thankless work with shit pay. But this video and other efforts like it have had a net positive impact on the quality of presupported miniatures in our hobby I believe, so it's worthwhile even if it's a bit uncomfortable.
You should 100% always support for low tensile resin, we want this to be plug and play, not I downloaded a file and it failed, no matter if you are new to 3d printing
Mez-geek? lol. Where is the pronunciation guide 😂 I was gonna lodge a complaint if you didn’t include Mez in this round up. It would have been interesting if you’d mentioned which creators are using third party support services. Nice highlight on that fancy base support method. The ‘design for printing and assembly’ aspect is also interesting as I’ve noticed Mezgike design use a lot of clever interfacing design - including hollow parts (lighter and less resin) and easier to assemble features with fewer visible seams etc.
So you mean this? www.bunnings.com.au/northcote-pottery-30-7-x-3-5cm-sand-villa-square-plastic-saucer_p0269312?srsltid=AfmBOoqBGruzNbMqpL3HEuW17AaV4m_tOmMoSPlR1zStJB-2nc-uHK0z
I wouldn't go with S, A, B etc. It's a bit silly and not very informative. Instead try descriptors - something like Flawless, Excellent, Needs Work and Unprintable.
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I think Minirater needs an F tier.
😮
Do you have a favorite resin printer that you can suggest? I was thinking about pledging to the Trench Crusade kickstarter to get all of their digital minis, but I don't have a 3d printer yet.
Thanks for all the great videos!
@@OnceinaSixSide I'd be careful with an F tier. That could be a real lightning rod. Save it for "there are errors in this file that make it practically unprintable." For instance, I make proxies for Battletech. Sometimes a part will look fine and I'll run it through a repair cycle and a Boolean will have screwed up in a non-visible way that isn't fixable outside of modeling work in blender (Which is why I test print everything). If a model comes out that is not fixable without that level of effort, more work than is reasonable for the average user, F tier.
@@parallaxgames I totally get what you're saying, but I worry that B tier is basically that right now. We've got good granularity on the positive end already with S, and A, but poor granularity on the sour end with just B.
Having a second tier down there would lessen the blow of a B rating, and better draw a distinction between releases with some issues versus those that are straight up unprintable.
So to add to that:
The B tier rating would come to mean: Well supported BUT you might have one or two failures.
F tier: completely unusable files.
Thanks again for covering my model, I appreciate it!!
-As for the supports on it, they are now fixed as I had them properly pre supported by two professionals. Hopefully the same can happen for the full release of the set but we will see.
Stoked! Looking forward to having another crack at it 🤘
This is like TV, but a program that I want to watch about things I'm interested in.
Add another tier in order to spread things out more. Give yourself some extra room at the top so that you can make the really stellar models stand out, like the support scarring should be a question that drops something down to an A tier from S. If it's otherwise great but you have to file off or fill the scars, then it isn't perfect. Drop your current "B" tier to "C".
That first part was great! I often print functional parts that need to be assembled. Accuracy vs strength is super important to me.
I am mad at you for not wasting more of my time, talking about dimensional accuracy vs tensile strength. ;)
As a resin printing newbie looking to leverage minirater:
S: Print and forget.
A: Basically print and forget. Requires very minor user input and basic printing knowledge.
B: Requires user input and solid printing knowledge (beginner cutoff).
C: Requires dedicated user input and significant printing experience.
D (F): Not worth any time, effort or money.
I think Minirater doesn't need more granularity, per se, but a rating for results. Because, honestly, I don't care if the designer used autosupports, or if there are errors that still print fine. I only care if it prints correctly, without failure. So, consider a "printability rating", as a percent or grade, that would tell me at a glance how likely the files are to fail or not.
Great video! I use Minirater all the time and extra detail for the ratings along with more intuitive tier names would go a long way, imo. Thanks for sharing!
I think minirater could use a question about noticeable scarring and one if it was easy to remove the supports. Maybe one more tear between B and A that says "it prints well, but has some small annoyances during post processing", If you want to go the full mile!
I'm personally a big fan of MrModulourk's sculpts, they're fun to paint.
Love this format, going through STLs and rating. It’s great to listen to your thought process on what you’re thinking and where failures could and do happen!
I could never be mad at you for talking about calibration! Some might even say that’s the best bit!
Maybe add a + and - with some more granular options.
Like you can have A-, A and A+
Make it "Advanced options". So you can still do the simple rating of A,B and C or you can be more granular with the additional + or -
Smuggler Boutique should definitely be getting at least an A Tier rating IMO. Out of scope for this video, but Smuggler Boutique's minis are also an INCREDIBLE painting experience, S Tier for me. Skulltown are also great, but the size and depth of Smuggler Boutique's faces really elevates the orciness.
This sort of video with the extra details and discussion is so useful. I'm an FDM guy for years and am thinking about trying resin so this is absolutely fascinating to me.
Somebody made TF2 Orkz. Awesome
Awesome video! I for one love seeing "how the sausage is made" to get a better understanding of the topic and what I might be doing wrong or incorrectly assuming, etc.
I really wish I had a use for all these minis in everybody’s patreons. I already have a massive backlog of unprinted and unpainted models from just 2 patreons 😅
Another thing about MrModulOrk is that the .lys files are pretty important because you need to scale the model down if you want them to fit as boys for popular war games.
They come with a scaling guide and the presupports are designed to be recalculated on scaled down models. Works great!
MrModulork, Smuggler Boutique, Skulltown Minis and Bluesky Minis are my go-tos for greenskinned goodness. Gorgeous models that come out perfect on my Saturn 4 every damn time. Can't recommend these guys enough.
Yes more granularity, B tier for support issues and a lower C tier for prints that fail, or have missing parts.
Thank you for including the calibration part of the video, I'm still figuring stuff out and was using that exact calibration model!
"we got a good community there" understatment if the centruy
I had the same issue with the cones of calibration using a Saturn 8K and "Siraya Tech Fast ABS-like Resin."
To get all the cones on the success side, I had to massively overexpose the print, like 4.5 seconds. Using these settings, the supports were fused on, lol. Using the "Boxes of Calibration," I found the best settings at 2.5 and never had an issue printing decently supported files.
Granularity could be achieved by having different 'scales' or 'sliders' that combine for the overall rating.
For example: file organization/type presence could be '-'/'minus', flat, or '+'/'plus'.
Using this I would imagine supports would fall under: unsupported=red, pre-supported w/ scarring=orange, overly pre-supported=yellow, 'perfect' pre-supports=green.
Such a timely video. Was just thinking about starting orcs.
Txarli Factory has their bases supported just like the one from smuggler's boutique here, and it is blooming incredible, even their toppered basses have that style of support with pillar supports only used as necessary
You mentioned adding a few more questions to minirater, you could also add "Did you need to reprint these models for better quality?". I'd also add two more tiers, C and F. B tier would become "this will take effort to fix or remove supports, but it's doable", C tier would become the new B tier for models that don't fall into A or C, and F would be "these models can't be saved"
happy Orktober to you all -waaaaaaghhh!
That 'new' base support I first saw in the ""'Grand style Ten Three thousandth""' community, almost all of the multi-mini bases were done in that way over on cults. They're such a better way to do it
Your videos are always awesome ! Thank you mrSix !
I'm so glad I came across this video. I literally just got a Mono 2 3d printer today. I pretty much plan on using it to print Orks
Great video as always!
For Minirater, adding one or more extra tier could be helpful. I also value some stuff more than others.
- There's all the before printings stuff that are nice to have, convenient things (files organization, renders, and extra files like lychee or chitu files, etc.)
- Then, I ask myself is there supported files, and how do the supports looks (islands, etc).
- Finally, once printed, hows does it look? Best tier here is a near perfect print with no or minimal clean up. Then a lesser tier, printed file but with a bunch of scarring or small failures. And then a fail tier, where the mini just breaks while removing supports, is just not removable or just didn't print!
For things that are not accounted for in your scale you could give it - or + depending on if it was a good or bad thing. Auto supports make it a b- instead of a B etc.
I subbed last month for your thumbnail. Best $5 I've ever spent on an STL.
As far as Ork creators, check out Solar STL. He's just starting, but I like his designs. He does mostly Orky vehicles and walkers.
The calibration stuff was good; a handy reminder
efresher.
I had issues with not great supports the last few weeks, which sucks because I get limited time to print and I dont want to spend it reprinting failed parts. Lets just say I had several "Big'uns" bodies that were failing on the arms, Axes that were failing, and a shaman whose tusks did not print. The sculpter is usually pretty good. But I had to go in and support not just the under supported arms and tusks but some of the original supports for good measure.
Instead of Tiers do a sliding scale for how easy it is to get the minis onto the tabletop. You could do it out of 5 or 10 and just have it more gradual rather than using rigid tiers. More questions will help with this scoring system as well, where each one will either add or deduct points from the scale. If you did it as an end result of #/10, each model could start as a 5, and each question deducts or adds points to the scale, with total and absolute complete failures resulting in less than a 5.
Oooh I like it!
The biggest problem with that system is that not all questions have the same value, for example does it have minor error on the slicer should not be worth the same as does it leave scaring on the mini or if some support ends have disconnected. That would mean that an oversupported mini that leaves a lot of scars coud still potentialy get a 9 out of 10 @@OnceinaSixSide
It is your settings, as your settings are optimised for an environment where everything outside the printer wants to kill you.
Was hoping to see some DakkaDakkaStore orks in this, oh well, their loss. Skulltowns' prints also do well on FDM. Had a lot of fun painting thier Blade Master mini.
I always print out TableFlip's original v1 Puck, I think only available on their discord now, as the practical conformation print to compliment the Cones any time I do a calibration. The left arm of Puck is supported to be a indicator of tip separation and pancaking.
Also thats the first time I've seen the continuous supports in the wild so thats neat. You can sort of ape the effect in lychee using inline supports with a really tight spacing
I gifted this set to a friend the ones in the thumbnail, the models cool 😎
This dude makes the best content
I have loved Mr. Modulork's models. I jsut got into Warhammer after geting a Elegoo Saturn 4 and He has had the best Boys.
I definitely want more Orks!!
This actually proves how we really need AI the help creating 3D printing supports
For real, I can't wait til we have a solid auto supports engine. Someone needs to hurry up and feed a neural net a shit load of high quality lys files to analyze
Smuggler Boutique & Trollet orks print well on Bambulabs A1 mini
I wonder, if you it would be possible for STL creators, get a badge or something that can add to their models page so that they can highlight that it is an Stier rated mini.. and then people would be able to have some confidence when buying the model.
Great video lad! I see this is what you meant when you said you calibrated the PAS10 resin for other printers! lol Print farm videos incoming? :D
I had the same thought when I seen the scarring from those supports, not many people choose to have sphere tips on their supports and by standard on lychee at least it uses no tip.
Mezgike is da best Ork Boi though and the presupportist (is that a word?) really goes through it with a fine comb and is a top bloke as well.
Keep the videos coming!
Thank you for all your hard work, I have learned so much from your content. I have a GK 2 and use Sunlu ABS Like and I have tons of cool prints for my rpg game table....
Minirater does need more granularity, it lacks a few categories that would help to understand the files better.
Good questions to add!
Ah using purple resin so the Orks have an innate stealth bonus, good choice.
Here for the discussion of calibration of resin
Much good information here.
I do presupports for some patreons and myminifactory tribes and can maybe shed a bit of light on some of this.
Many customers don't make all that much money, especially when just beginning so they want to cut costs as much as possible. This means that often times they will not test print the files or ask for the files to be test printed.
Some only test a couple of files and some test 100% of the files.
There is always a balance between success rate and how easy the supports are to remove and while for most cases an experienced person doing supports will have it just right 99% of the time but it can happen that the tips should be just a tiny bit bigger. This could happen even if it was test printed due to different resins and printer calibration.
EDIT: the cost cutting some do is not just to make more money, they seriously can't afford it and I've seen people do their best with the models but still not make enough money to stay afloat. So don't be too harsh.
You're not wrong.
When I did it myself professionally the pay was shit for how much work went into it, and the test printing cost a small fortune in resin (albeit the cheapest most garbage resin I could get in bulk) so I totally get it.
It never feels great judging these things, but I do believe it has a net positive effect on the industry.
@@OnceinaSixSide Oh I agree we do need to speak about how well the work is being done. I got into it only because I was frustrated so many presupports were just done badly and I ended up supporting the files that were supposed to already be supported so many times. But since then presupported files have been getting better.
Love the videos! Keep it up mate
Yeah, I don't bother with pre-supported files. With pre-supports, almost half the time something on a plate fails causing the need to reprint or worse, clean and repair the vat. I use chitubox auto support on fine and then add some mediums. I rarely have problems with the auto-supports.
One gripe I always have is that nobody provides good guides on what part totals you need to finish a mini and I'm usually left to guess based on the MMF preview image and opening all of the unsupported files to find what I need.
Images of built out models with stl file callouts would be nice or an array of all parts in a category all lined up
What a great ending to Orktober!
your z height looks to be about 1mm low on that, check the height of the block on the cones (should be 6mm unless you have an old cones version they say the measurement on the side) and the overall height up to the top text should be 10mm.
Also if you can't get cones while DA make sure you aren't going too fast 3>3mm height 60>180 180>60mm/min is usually a good safe setup
Only suggestion is you should have used cones and then the first prints would have worked
Oversupporting is a very annoying problem to encounter. I just got a bunch of totally fantastic Space Dwarf minis a recent Kickstarter and I have to go in and redo all the supports. The presupports definitely don't fail, but they're so thick and so plentiful that I needed to use clippers and a hobby knife to remove supports and I still had multiple breakages on the one plate I've printed thus far. If I had to guess, they're probably playing it too safe and assuming the end user is printing the models massively underexposed or far too fast, but I don't think the tradeoff of guaranteeing a successful print under garbage settings is worth making support removal a nightmare.
Really enjoying Mr Modulork. I'm printing off his WARG files for an imperial guard proxy.
There were some tiny issues with them so far - mostly just I hate vehicles that don't have keys to fit together, so you're awkwardly holding tracks to the side of the tank but they're awkwardly floating.
A few pieces that printed but don't sit perfectly flush, but hey, close enough. Tiny bit of greenstuff and it's fine.
Gotta admit, as simple as it is I'm glad that they truly are modular - can mix and match kits within each range, but also from other ranges. Can make an interesting character with that.
Also yeah, you really should have more varied ratings. I'd assume a B-tier mini is still a good file, but it could be absolute garbage with your rating system.
Nice video, thanks for investing all that time!
One thing that stood out to me was your rating of the islands at 6:18
There is an obvious island right next to the one you pointed out as being well supported. Why didnt you just run the lychee island detector? I know its not as good as the UV tools one but still it would have gotten at least that one
You can’t split difference between 3.25 or 4.25. Maybe do 0.1sec increments to balance strength back looks?
I'm a big fan of Malicous Minis. I use their heads for everything I do when I "need" a print from someone else. I've had a hard time supporting their minis myself, though, honestly. I'm no support savant or anything.
shoulda printed some of them on FDM for the fun of it to see how they turn out on them :3
3:30 while printing the cones of calibration, I got a pretty big different result for ideal exposure time printing the cones using an exposure range finder like the anycubic one and printing the cones one at a time and modifying the exposure as I went. The ones printed one at a time gave me a result about one second lower than the range exposure finder. I was able to take this exposure setting and print a full size titan with minimal print failure that, usualy the fault of my bad supports. Curious if anybody had similar result to mine.
Interesting! I'll have to look into that
Other tiers and feedback systems may just clutter minirater honestly. My recommendation would be to add tags or something similar for the reviews; that way those of us who know can identify whether files were auto-supported, which kind of files were included, or other finer details like that. Also support scarring could be noted
common mezgike w
to be honest, I think the puppetswar presupports are an ongoing issue. I have my settings on my saturn 4 ultra dialed in perfectly, and I had 4 failed prints in a row of his "mikey" TMNT orc, with the model splitting horribly at the neck every single time
Doing the prints in an enclosure this time. How does it compare to the previous way we’ve seen you print?
Is there a video on the current printer enclosure & ventilation setup? It looks like a grow tent maybe? I’m trying to put together a good setup for my office so I can be in the room while the resin printer is running
Yep! th-cam.com/video/13xUSlKV4LE/w-d-xo.html
Im disappointed in you, man. I started watching your channel with the imperial guard combat patrol print, and not once in this video did you go "THE CONES OF CALIBRATION!" voice effect. Damn.
Haha I shit you not I almost did throw that in here, but then I was too lazy to go digging for the soundbite. I'll make sure it's present next time 🥲
On another point: I do need to know more about Raid shadow legends and what VPN you prefer
Add a question about Support scaring to Minirater should fix the problems with Autosupported minis getting S tiers
Great video! My apologies if I missed it but what printer/resin is used here? The quality looks great.
The purple colour's nice on the calibration test, but did you switch to clear when you printed the orcs? I couldn't see any of the gits at all 🤔
Saw that Battle Brother Sam had fails using same resin. Compare notes?
System definitely needs some refinement. I would argue I would rather see a B tier like MaliciousMinis or Puppetswar than an A tier like Lucas with a C every time. With MaliciousMinis its simple to add 3 or 4 more supports after a failure. With Lucas, yeah I have a print but from all the scarring I'm pitching it and now I have to re-support the entire model its a worst case scenario for me, maximum waste and maximum effort.
Agreed! That's a really great point.
Could be cool to have a video where u deep dive how u approach mini supporting. Ive been doing supports for a few years now but im sure i way overkill it😅 and i know those who really know what they are doing get away with alot less supports that still some how hokd but break away super clean, its black magic i swear😂
I usually 3d print statues, would minirater be a bad spot to put the creators up for grading?
SkullTown is the best, I've followed him for ages. Check out his World Eaters, Jim
Hey what kind of tent are you using for your printers? I have a pretty good air evacuation setup in my house but i would love to be able to use the room while im printing 😂
Could you please do one of these but for black templars 🙏
hi @OnceinaSixSide I wanted to ask you if you have any recommendation for a printer using this Blackfriday deals?
i have a Saturn S but rarely works.. found out recently it has a warped plate an that's why I can only print like half the times.
if you can provide some feedback I would appreciate it
Cheers m8 and keep up the good work
My top pick this year is the M5S Pro followed by the Saturn 4 Ultra if you can tolerate the really bad build plate design.
For smaller printers though the Mars 5 Ultra or new Mono 4 Ultra (neither of which I've tried yet btw) both look great.
The thing all these printers have in common which I think is a must have feature is the load sensor that can detect rogue debris and resin runout.
@@OnceinaSixSidethank you for your reply so anycubic will be 😁
Can I also request you opinion on a wash and cure and a resin to use for wargaming? I was using my old original anycubic wash and cure , and the Elegoo 8k grey
Cheers m8
Great ☺☺
Hmmm, remind me to send you my First World War, steam boiler enhanced armoured perambulator that only looks a bit like an Imperial Night when you squint a bit. Sorry but everything you have shown me is novice in comparison so far. Imagine a Resin 3D Print that you would mistake for a kit..
I love the tweaks you're thinking of regarding the rating system.
Great video. The freehand, unscripted format is just fine!
It's really disappointing to hear you criticise supporters for supports coming away from the models after you noted yourself that you calibrated to dimensional accuracy, rather than tensile strength.
In honesty it's far better for a supporter to support for dialled in tensile strength rather than dim accuracy as it's going to be far more consistent a baseline... given calibrating to dim accuracy across different resins can perform wildly differently in their mechanical strength during printing.
I don't feel the claim you should support for the worst case is really valid. What do you take as the "worst case" to allow for? I would bet there are people out there who have poorly dialed on resin that would struggle with your prints to... and that's be there problem.
At this stage in resin printing I think it is on users to understand calibration & the difference between dim accuracy & mechanical strength, and to expect problems if they only dial in to dim accuracy.
While I'm moaning - imo, minor errors really shouldn't affect ratings unless the errors actually affect the printing.
He address this 11 minutes into the video.
I hear you, and I appreciate the feedback a lot.
The thing is the parts that failed to print weren't properly anchored to the build plate. Best example is the failed arm on the Puppetswar model: it only had light non load-bearing supports placed on it, whereas that model's other arm had appropriate larger supports sufficiently anchoring it to the build plate. It's just an oversight but the presupportist, and not related to the print settings here at all as demonstrated by the rest of the print being perfect where appropriate anchoring was used.
It never feels good to give bad ratings, especially on presupports which let's be honest is usually thankless work with shit pay. But this video and other efforts like it have had a net positive impact on the quality of presupported miniatures in our hobby I believe, so it's worthwhile even if it's a bit uncomfortable.
You should 100% always support for low tensile resin, we want this to be plug and play, not I downloaded a file and it failed, no matter if you are new to 3d printing
Mez-geek? lol. Where is the pronunciation guide 😂 I was gonna lodge a complaint if you didn’t include Mez in this round up. It would have been interesting if you’d mentioned which creators are using third party support services. Nice highlight on that fancy base support method. The ‘design for printing and assembly’ aspect is also interesting as I’ve noticed Mezgike design use a lot of clever interfacing design - including hollow parts (lighter and less resin) and easier to assemble features with fewer visible seams etc.
Can't go wrong with orks in general, but some people's ork sculpts are a bit boring tbh
Your such a dude. Best buymeacoffee sub out there.
are all of the creators that are apart of your patreon ranked S teir on minirater?
Nah, Morkak got a B, Lucas an A, Skulltown an S, and Smuggler an A.
Out of interest, where in Aus can you buy those paper plates?
So you mean this?
www.bunnings.com.au/northcote-pottery-30-7-x-3-5cm-sand-villa-square-plastic-saucer_p0269312?srsltid=AfmBOoqBGruzNbMqpL3HEuW17AaV4m_tOmMoSPlR1zStJB-2nc-uHK0z
I wouldn't go with S, A, B etc. It's a bit silly and not very informative. Instead try descriptors - something like Flawless, Excellent, Needs Work and Unprintable.
🔥🤘❤️👍
Hey what about Blue Sky Miniatures on MMF???? 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬
Not Russians!!
No such thing as waisted minutes of life watching your videos man