I just wanted to say thank you! I had finally set up my newly purchased Saturn 3 Ultra and essentially did your first set of mistakes! But it was thanks to this video that I was able to avoid making any more! Please keep the content coming! Instant follow
sounds tough man. i'm so perfect that sometimes I purposefully get my leatherman and scratch the buildplate just to feel a little more human. Hope you have a wonderful time in 3d printing world
I’ve been printing with an Anycubic Photon Mono for over a year now. I’m still making “rookie” mistakes. It’s probably inherent to the hobby. You just keep at it and don’t let mistakes ruin your enjoyment. As long as you have a plan and an explanation for those mistakes, you can solve them and keep going. Ps. Probably the part that most resonated with me was the “I needed a win” line. I remember my third attempt failing again and again. The added bonus was that I was placing the supports myself. I ended up printing a pre-supported mini, and enjoyed the win. After that I learned how to support for hollow and non-hollow models, and I pretty much enjoy it as much as any other part of the process.
Just got the same printer. Looking forward to the upgrade from the Creality Halot One Plus. I tried my 1st test print (cones of calibration) and printed wirelessly from my MacBook through Lychee. My biggest mistake was spilling the resin on the printer itself! Had to take it apart and clean it out. Lucky it did not get on to the mirror lamp. I lucked out. Cleaned it all out and it's working perfectly... dodged a bullet on that one 😎 Looking forward to the bigger print!!
Not sure if anyone mentioned this.. but yes you can use lychee to send prints wirelessly... It comes with a wireless antenna and once your printer is connected to your Network you can discover it inside lychee.. and send prints wirelessly.
It’s so funny you mention not tightening the build plate as I did the same exact thing and panicked but once I noticed it was already done so I figured it was ruined how ever the print came out perfect lol go figure
Hey bud, remember to NOT prime models before you build them...When you glue models together you want the actual unpainted surface to be what sticks...Adding a layer of paint or primer increases break away....So you actually had it correct.
Its so funny watching this because your very first sentance shows my situation perfectly and to top it all of i bought yesterday the same printer that you started with
I've been printing for about 2 weeks now. Using Halot Mage with Sunlu ABS and made a few mistakes but the overall success outweighs those mistakes. It's also a great hobby to share with my young kids.
Ok, why your full build plate failed whilst your single elf archer model didnt, you increased your platw lift speed, cuasing more vibration, this can cause failutes with larger heavier models if your using light supports, as it takes less movement (vibration) to break off mid print, if you have a full build plate with larger models, its always wise to slow down your lift speeds, it may taoe 30 minutes to an hour longer, but better to be patient than having to clean out a vat and reset everything and waate resin
For the failed larger print, there are a lot of things that can affect the print success. Temperature is a big one that people don't realize when they first begin. You usually want the temperature to be between 22-30 degrees celcius, as resin viscosity changes how quickly you can print. Other times it is a matter of allowing a bit of time between layers (wait time after retract). If you do not wait a little between layers and approach with high speed, the resin sometimes does not have time to settle enough for a proper adhesion. This can lead to layers separating (delamination). Lift height can also make a difference. As the film wears, it starts to loosen a bit. To adjust for that, you can increase the lift height a bit to allow a bit more distance between the plate and the film. It looks like your mistakes were similar to ones we all have when learning. Keep at it and you'll learn how to spot the issues with prints and adjust for them. Looking forward to seeing Tiamat completed!
I always drop the whole bottle into a sink of hot water before starting, and then shake vigorously for at least 30 seconds before pouring. I made my own heater for the printer and haven't had a problem with bed adhesion since.
I'm still kicking around, the community discord is still going strong. Plans were to get back to making videos a while ago, anxiety and depression suck. I'll be back eventually, I'm looking forward to it.
@@davejeltema3 I feel you, brother. Take care of yourself. That's the great thing about being a subscriber... when you're back, you're right there for us to see.
@@davejeltema3 I've been printing for 4 years. I've made the same mistakes and still make them occasionaly. Making mistakes is how we learn. But the worst one you can do is forgetting to put the vat bolt back on and start a print...
Why do you need to prime before assembly? If you don't you can use a little bit of resin around the joint to weld the pieces together (in addition to superglue in the centre of the joint) for a stronger and smoother fit. I can't think of any reason you would have to wait until after assembly other than hard to reach areas - which shouldn't be an issue on a model that large.
You know it's not something I thought to question, I was given the advice from someone who puts together a ton of minis and assumed it was the best practice. I just looked into it a bit and most just suggest to do it if there will be hard to reach areas. It could just be best practice as a blanket rule. I guess I'll have to experiment to see what I like best.
@@davejeltema3 Paint does not stick to paint. Glue with epoxy, CA or best of all, the same resin and a UV pen. It's also a good stage then to use filler for all the cracks and sand/file to get as good a finish as possible before using a primer.
I also scratched the build plate, a lot, trying to get the rook off, only managed pouring hot water over it Guess for the next print I'll go down to 20s bottom exposure from the default 30s Also, so there's where I got a little mysterious cut!
I did, I do have the simple pickle jar to self dunk. I tend to use it to get most of the resin off the print first. But I don't want to sit there for minutes dunking over and over, especially when it can only fit a small handful of resin. When I made my test rook, some of the resin didn't cure properly because I didn't wash it well enough. I grabbed the Elegoo wash and cure bundle (it's on sale right now amzn.to/3Q1iVJV). It's nice to be able to drop it in there while I clean up, saves time and effort. It was worth it to me, but it's not strictly necessary if your trying to save money or space.
so i recently got the same 3d printer satrun ultra 12k but struggling with settings til now im on default settings any advice to improve it or should i just keep on default couldn't find any good vid online about it to be honest thank for the vid learned alot ^ ^
Made the same mistakes as you pretty much , same printer 1st one I ever had maybe had it 10 day , had a print that half failed and half was fine , and I did not filter resin , missed a 1mm x 2mm raft with support in Vat , next print the plate drove the piece straight through the fep an into the lcd , :( anyway ordered parts , 207$ worth , not sure if I should let Elegoo know figured my own stupid mistakes not theirs , anyway good luck subbed btw
Im waiting for my saturn 4 ultra it will be my first resin printer So in my first week i guarantee you that i will make as many or even more mistakes than you 😅
Nope, I didn't hollow it out. It's the exact same STL, simply changed the lift speed from 60 to 600. However after getting a failure I haven't tried it on more than a single mini again yet. I still need to experiment some more. I don't think I would recommend this for most printers, If my understanding is correct I only got away with such extreme speeds because of the ACF Film on the Saturn 3 Ultra.
@@davejeltema3 Thanks for the answer, I really appreciate that! Got my Mars 3 Pro yesterday and my own first real prints are printing atm. Mine lifting speed is only a 80, maybe I should test can it do 120 or smth. One more question: Do you have same values on Retract Speed and Bottom Retract Speed? And Lifting speed & Bottom lifting speed? Or do they differ between eachother?
I started with just lift speed but then realized that the others could be adjusted too. I tried to change them once but havent had time to test them very well before I went back to default settings to make sure the bigger plates came out well without issues.@@MaikkariFIN
If you;re back at Gencon this year, I hope you find chance to come say Hi. I'll be at the Artis Opus booth!
Thanks for the shout out!!!
You better believe it, I'll make a point to come say hi. :)
Literally sitting here watching this after my first print on my Saturn 4, holding my bleeding thumb! 😂 That scraper is so sharp
I use the plastic one and just get a bit of a run up before I get to the edge of the print
I like the way that you present the information. Keep up the good work. I'm looking forward to your future videos!
I just wanted to say thank you! I had finally set up my newly purchased Saturn 3 Ultra and essentially did your first set of mistakes! But it was thanks to this video that I was able to avoid making any more! Please keep the content coming! Instant follow
sounds tough man. i'm so perfect that sometimes I purposefully get my leatherman and scratch the buildplate just to feel a little more human. Hope you have a wonderful time in 3d printing world
I’ve been printing with an Anycubic Photon Mono for over a year now. I’m still making “rookie” mistakes. It’s probably inherent to the hobby. You just keep at it and don’t let mistakes ruin your enjoyment. As long as you have a plan and an explanation for those mistakes, you can solve them and keep going.
Ps. Probably the part that most resonated with me was the “I needed a win” line. I remember my third attempt failing again and again. The added bonus was that I was placing the supports myself. I ended up printing a pre-supported mini, and enjoyed the win. After that I learned how to support for hollow and non-hollow models, and I pretty much enjoy it as much as any other part of the process.
Nice Job!
Just got the same printer. Looking forward to the upgrade from the Creality Halot One Plus. I tried my 1st test print (cones of calibration) and printed wirelessly from my MacBook through Lychee. My biggest mistake was spilling the resin on the printer itself! Had to take it apart and clean it out. Lucky it did not get on to the mirror lamp. I lucked out. Cleaned it all out and it's working perfectly... dodged a bullet on that one 😎
Looking forward to the bigger print!!
Ty for the video :) I'm the guy that said hello in Discord last week by the way! (maybe there were more than one 🙃)
Hello back! Thanks for taking the time to check it out :)
Not sure if anyone mentioned this.. but yes you can use lychee to send prints wirelessly... It comes with a wireless antenna and once your printer is connected to your Network you can discover it inside lychee.. and send prints wirelessly.
It’s so funny you mention not tightening the build plate as I did the same exact thing and panicked but once I noticed it was already done so I figured it was ruined how ever the print came out perfect lol go figure
Thank you for this video, it was very encouraging and the prints look awesome!
Hey bud, remember to NOT prime models before you build them...When you glue models together you want the actual unpainted surface to be what sticks...Adding a layer of paint or primer increases break away....So you actually had it correct.
Can’t wait to see more prints
Its so funny watching this because your very first sentance shows my situation perfectly and to top it all of i bought yesterday the same printer that you started with
I've been printing for about 2 weeks now. Using Halot Mage with Sunlu ABS and made a few mistakes but the overall success outweighs those mistakes. It's also a great hobby to share with my young kids.
I've just bought some Sunlu ABS, coming highly recommended by many, (good price too).
Looking forward to trying it out.
Good video, Soldier! Earned a sub...
Just got this printer as well! Great video!
Your video is awesome and I made same mistakes with you on my first week of using satrun 3 ultra. And also the machine printed almost perfect.
Yeah no complaints, it's done everything I've thrown at it perfectly.
Ok, why your full build plate failed whilst your single elf archer model didnt, you increased your platw lift speed, cuasing more vibration, this can cause failutes with larger heavier models if your using light supports, as it takes less movement (vibration) to break off mid print, if you have a full build plate with larger models, its always wise to slow down your lift speeds, it may taoe 30 minutes to an hour longer, but better to be patient than having to clean out a vat and reset everything and waate resin
Was that the eye of the beholder? Btw nice vid waiting for the same printer , hope it come soon :) Also first time printer^^
I'm glad you caught that :P Best of luck with your prints, I just helped a friend beef out his warhammer army with some hard to get mini's.
so what your solution to removing items from the plate? it would be helpful if you name your mistake and solution cause i got nothing from this video.
For the failed larger print, there are a lot of things that can affect the print success. Temperature is a big one that people don't realize when they first begin. You usually want the temperature to be between 22-30 degrees celcius, as resin viscosity changes how quickly you can print. Other times it is a matter of allowing a bit of time between layers (wait time after retract). If you do not wait a little between layers and approach with high speed, the resin sometimes does not have time to settle enough for a proper adhesion. This can lead to layers separating (delamination). Lift height can also make a difference. As the film wears, it starts to loosen a bit. To adjust for that, you can increase the lift height a bit to allow a bit more distance between the plate and the film.
It looks like your mistakes were similar to ones we all have when learning. Keep at it and you'll learn how to spot the issues with prints and adjust for them. Looking forward to seeing Tiamat completed!
I always drop the whole bottle into a sink of hot water before starting, and then shake vigorously for at least 30 seconds before pouring.
I made my own heater for the printer and haven't had a problem with bed adhesion since.
You can literally leave the print hanging overnight and clean it in the morning.
Dave! Where did you go? Are you coming back?
I'm still kicking around, the community discord is still going strong. Plans were to get back to making videos a while ago, anxiety and depression suck. I'll be back eventually, I'm looking forward to it.
@@davejeltema3 I feel you, brother. Take care of yourself. That's the great thing about being a subscriber... when you're back, you're right there for us to see.
Any tips for removing the figure from the plate?
No real choice but to go after with with a scraper.
@@davejeltema3 Thanks! Here I go then!!
There's no mistakes, only happy little incidents ~ Bob Ross
Hopefully my happy accidents were entertaining and you learned as much from them as I did xD
@@davejeltema3 I've been printing for 4 years. I've made the same mistakes and still make them occasionaly. Making mistakes is how we learn. But the worst one you can do is forgetting to put the vat bolt back on and start a print...
@@Tuxon86 Oof, true.
I so relate to this, only have spent a few hours with mine but yeah lol
Why do you need to prime before assembly? If you don't you can use a little bit of resin around the joint to weld the pieces together (in addition to superglue in the centre of the joint) for a stronger and smoother fit. I can't think of any reason you would have to wait until after assembly other than hard to reach areas - which shouldn't be an issue on a model that large.
You know it's not something I thought to question, I was given the advice from someone who puts together a ton of minis and assumed it was the best practice. I just looked into it a bit and most just suggest to do it if there will be hard to reach areas. It could just be best practice as a blanket rule. I guess I'll have to experiment to see what I like best.
@@davejeltema3 Paint does not stick to paint. Glue with epoxy, CA or best of all, the same resin and a UV pen.
It's also a good stage then to use filler for all the cracks and sand/file to get as good a finish as possible before using a primer.
I also scratched the build plate, a lot, trying to get the rook off, only managed pouring hot water over it
Guess for the next print I'll go down to 20s bottom exposure from the default 30s
Also, so there's where I got a little mysterious cut!
Купил вчера, сегодня этот принтер привезли, распечатал первой фигурой Геральта из Ривии , инструмент крутой это точно, детали честно говоря поражают
Did you purchase a wash station? Are they necessary?
I did, I do have the simple pickle jar to self dunk. I tend to use it to get most of the resin off the print first. But I don't want to sit there for minutes dunking over and over, especially when it can only fit a small handful of resin. When I made my test rook, some of the resin didn't cure properly because I didn't wash it well enough. I grabbed the Elegoo wash and cure bundle (it's on sale right now amzn.to/3Q1iVJV). It's nice to be able to drop it in there while I clean up, saves time and effort. It was worth it to me, but it's not strictly necessary if your trying to save money or space.
That’s me waiting at the door now on 3 gal of IPA. Damn you Fed Ex!
so i recently got the same 3d printer satrun ultra 12k but struggling with settings til now im on default settings any advice to improve it or should i just keep on default couldn't find any good vid online about it to be honest thank for the vid learned alot ^ ^
Made the same mistakes as you pretty much , same printer 1st one I ever had maybe had it 10 day , had a print that half failed and half was fine , and I did not filter resin , missed a 1mm x 2mm raft with support in Vat , next print the plate drove the piece straight through the fep an into the lcd , :( anyway ordered parts , 207$ worth , not sure if I should let Elegoo know figured my own stupid mistakes not theirs , anyway good luck subbed btw
Where did you get the stls for the beholder, the tarrasque, and tiamat? :)
lordoftheprint on myminifactory
@@davejeltema3 thanks❤️
Hi can you share your printer and resin parameters I just bought the same printer
Im waiting for my saturn 4 ultra it will be my first resin printer
So in my first week i guarantee you that i will make as many or even more mistakes than you 😅
Making it twice as big? You are dreaming too small. Make it three times as big! I want to see that and all of the mistakes you make doing it :).
yea the first 5 min was me
How many bottles of resin did you go through for this video? I'm trying to figure out how much you can print with a bottle on average. Thanks
It's been a while since I printed these I don't exactly remember. It might have been a single bottle but it was definitely less than 2.
@@davejeltema3 Thanks for the reply. Just how much you get out of a single bottle isn't always clear.
What's the biggest mistake you've made? Don't be shy 😜
How you made the another archer 1hour faster? Did you hollow other one? Does small minis, like those archers, need a drain hole?
Nope, I didn't hollow it out. It's the exact same STL, simply changed the lift speed from 60 to 600. However after getting a failure I haven't tried it on more than a single mini again yet. I still need to experiment some more. I don't think I would recommend this for most printers, If my understanding is correct I only got away with such extreme speeds because of the ACF Film on the Saturn 3 Ultra.
@@davejeltema3 Thanks for the answer, I really appreciate that! Got my Mars 3 Pro yesterday and my own first real prints are printing atm. Mine lifting speed is only a 80, maybe I should test can it do 120 or smth.
One more question: Do you have same values on Retract Speed and Bottom Retract Speed? And Lifting speed & Bottom lifting speed? Or do they differ between eachother?
I started with just lift speed but then realized that the others could be adjusted too. I tried to change them once but havent had time to test them very well before I went back to default settings to make sure the bigger plates came out well without issues.@@MaikkariFIN
I WANT TO SEE THE BIGGEST FREAKING DRAGON YOU CAN MAKE!!!
Biggy mini
F that vat cleaning method, huge waste of resin