I put a paint mark on the chain where the r/L mark is, use the wedge tool, I take the second cam cap off, put a small piece of computer paper under the cap, tighten the cap down just snug nothing crazy don’t distort the cam cap from cranking it down tight it doesn’t take much and this will make the cam not move while u swap the phaser then remove the cap take paper out, torque cam cap then phaser bolt. Ford master tech told me about this 15 years ago I’ve been doing them like this ever since.
Do I need to remove the timing chain cover in order to do this? I know this video is 8 years old but I have a 2011 Ford expedition with 200,000 mi that is starting to give me phaser trouble I've already replaced the VCT cylinders both cam position sensors and the PCM. So popping the valve covers it's not a big deal but I don't remember if I could get the cam phaser off without pulling the timing chain?
I wanted to thank you for this video. This helped me diagnose my truck and then was critical in the repair. I followed everything exactly, and the outcome was perfect! A few notes for anyone else attempting this: Make the marks on the cam phasers and the cam lobes, as indicated in the video. My cams rolled just a little bit when I took the phasers off, so the marks were crucial. On the cam phasers, the "R" imprint is very close to where the pin is located on the back side that has to line up with the notch in the came shaft, and if your "cheese" is in properly, there is no play in the chain. Moving the cam shaft slightly to align was necessary due to the roll of the cam in my instance. The hardest part of the entire job is the rear valve cover bolts. Either I need to be taller, or I need a low-rider! Due to the rubber grommets on the valve cover bolts, make sure they are all aligned and seated in the holes prior to tightening anything down. Visual inspection through the wheel well is imperative. GREAT VIDEO and PERFECT INSTRUCTION! THANK YOU!!
@@michaelpatton5012 It sounded and felt like the truck was going to fall apart. It only did when it was warmed up and at idle. You'll know it when it happens. It makes a heck of a noise.
@@azmadmonk1 If you utilize the tools identified in the video, the cam should not turn once you have the chain removed. I did have a set of helping hands that held/watched the cam shaft to make sure there was no movement. It will move if you don't use the tools properly. If you are thorough and careful, shouldn't be an issue.
Used this same process just yesterday on my 4.6 V8 Mustang. I didn't quite have the lobes at 11 and 8, after taking the phaser off the cam rotated a half inch or so. I figured no big deal, I'll hand rotate the engine to align the phaser to the cam and install it. While rotating the engine the chain sucked the wedge further towards the crank! Haha, I wrapped my tools up for the day and went inside. Next day I was able to keep rotating the engine and aligned, torqued and finish installing the phaser then went on to fishing the wedge out. My car runs smooth again and I have you to thank for guiding me through this seemingly daunting process! Thank you so much
How did you guy remove the cam phaser bolt. My impact doesn’t fit between radiator and bolt. If i use the breaker bar, it keeps pulling the block inside alternating my 11 oclock
I own a 2008 Navigator with 60gs on the odometer. Had the plugs changed before the class action law suit expired and have been watching your videos for tips on things i can do to get a longer life out of it. I recently changed to 5W30 full synthetic over the 5W20. I can not get over the difference in how everything smoothed out and quieted down at idle and higher speeds. It was so noticeable that my wife even commented on it. I hope i did it soon enough to avoid any major repair bills. Thanks for your channel.
Just completed driver's side on 2006 F-150. Couple of comments 1. I could not get the wedge in the way Brian describes it. There is a picture in the Ford installation bulletin that shows it going in on the outside of the head in front of the cam phaser. This worked for me and it was not in the way. 2. I did not have the cam positioned quite far enough and it moved when I took off the phaser. If it's marked like Brian said, no need to panic. It is easy to protect the cam shaft and put some vise grips on the area between the first lobe and the phaser seating area. Just realign the marks and put the phaser on. 3. Lastly, I could not source a single valve cover gasket and had to buy the whole set. Though probably not needed, the rubber doughnuts in the set can be replaced, but they are not sealing gaskets. They are used to control the force applied by the valve cover bolts. You have to cut them off the bolt sleeve and then push the new ones on over the sleeve. DO NOT try to remove the metal sleeve from the bolts.
Bro your a life saver I was bugging on how to get the can back to it original spot. Looking it I figured vices or piper wrench on the would work. Thanks for your input
wanted to thank you for your 4 part videos on cam phazers .i'm from marquette mi my 3 valve 2005 5.4 was very noisy was down in Memphis Tenn no one wanted to touch this job. looked at all your videos and drove my truck back to the UP .with the help of your videos I was able to do the job. my timing had jumped one link . used your advice all ford parts new melling 360 high volume oll pump (that one bolt was very scrary to put in lots of rags in oil pan.)but i got it .took foever!!!! to get oil pressure.it seamed!!! connected crank sensor and started and runs great with 300 miles on it we are going back to Memphis THANK YOU AGAIN FOR YOUR VIDEOS....
I just did my passenger side phaser .. thanks Brian .. the alignment mark saved me from disaster . I couldn’t get it aligned and my cam had shifted a few degrees. I was able to use large channel lock and got it on there. Thanks Brian …
Great series, I'm very impressed with the clarity and detail! I was able to jam the cheese rod into the timing chain from the front side of the phaser and replace the phaser easily with no clearance issues in my 2008 F250 5.4 (with 378,000 miles on it). My cheese rod would not fit through the cavity in the procedure that you suggested. Just an FYI. My cam did move. I was able to move it back and the phaser slid rite on. I'm glad I market it! The engine runs like a top. Thanks!
Yea looking at his video. I'm pretty positive the positioning he is using to get the wedge tool in is physically impossible to do with the front cover on. He points the wedge at one point where it would be coming directly out the side of the front cover. I don't think the tool has the amount of bend to make that happen. In the Ford service manual the picture they show as reference shows it going in through the front. So that would be the proper way of doing this.
@@sethdrak3 Seth I'm working on a customers 2009 3v and I had to go in from the front of the phaser. I am surprised the amount of wear on the chain for only 117k miles on this vehicle. Still a great video.
I just did this today on my 2010 F-250. This is a great and well done vid, but I do have a couple comments. 1. Make sure you have in your head that the R phaser is actually the left as your looking at it, and vice versa for L. 2. If your chains are not very worn, there is little slack, and its very difficult to get that new phaser over the snout of the cam. Might as well pull the front cover and do the chains as well, the whole procedure is easier. 3. When your looking at your chains and the black links, lineing things up, keep in mind when the R and L on the phasers is at the very top, its at the top in relation to the cyl head, not 12 o'clock like a clock. Seems fundimental, but it fooled me for a bit. Those after market iron chain tensioners and higher volume oil pump are worthwhile and might as well do them if your gonna take the whole front of the engine apart. If you have a twin I-beam F-250, its very hard, or maybe impossible to get the oil pan off without jacking up the engine. My guides were not disintegrated (I have 90K) so I was OK leaving the pan on. This means that new oil pump was difficult. The hardest part was those damn 8mm fasteners for the oil sucktion tube. One is merely very difficult. The inner one is damn near impossible. Make certain you have a cloth "bib" draped down into the oil pan so 'when' you drop one of those fasteners it will get caught and not go ting-ting-ting down into the depths of the main pan area. The near impossible one can be done if you have a ratcheting 8mm wrench and/or what used to be called an "ignition wrench". Its a tiny, thin 8mm. I have a Craftsman set of them from about 45 years ago when I worked on motorcycles. I am old and less agile and this is a full 3 day job from start to finish for me. I intend for my regular cab stick shift "old school" F-250 last until Im too old to drive, doing this now before trouble has already started should be key to that strategy.
20 + year ford tech here,, great video i never have a cam to jump because i cut a piece of plastic from a oil or antifreeze jug, remove the 2nd cam cap or further back and sanwich the plastic between cam and cap bearing and snug tight (no air tools as the cam cap will break) holds that cam perfectly. as stated in video make darn sure the dowell pin in phaser is there in place. don't eat the cheese. my personal truck 5.4 3 valve heads i sent off for a line bore and insert bearings like rod and main bearings, more important melling high volume oil pump more agressive cams, phaser lockouts reprogram to delete varible cam timing, headers + dyno tuning. results a tire roasting sob that still doesn't make the power of the coyote 5.0 stock. all this vct crap is supposed to help power and fuel economy. the 2004 and up f series is a heavier vehicle with a frame stronger than any gm garbage at the time. the 300 hp 5.4 3 valve never felt like a 300 hp engine in those heavy trucks but more like a old slant 6 dodge pick-up. my 2006 f-150 5.4 came un-glued at 280,000 miles and i only ran amszoil in it from 1st oil change on thru 280,000. having a pile of 5.4 3 valve cores at home went for the rebuild from the .030 over bore, line bored heads, block, cam phaser lockouts, more agressive cams, exhaust, dyno tunes. my mpg was around 17 mpg hwy before now is 19 mpg and sometimes 22mpg. and passes emissions. i was over 400 miles away from home when my engine failed, it never rattled, never had a phaser replacement or timing chains. a timing chain broke and locked it down and amszoil kept that weak crappy ford designed boat anchor together for 9.5 years and 280,000 miles.
Save the headache use ONLY the latest Ford Phasers Here- amzn.to/1XZuEtA Timing chain "cheese" wedge tool kit- amzn.to/1tubEGg Engine Sealant I recommend- amzn.to/28KF03y 5W-30 Full Synthetic Engine Oil I use- amzn.to/1V1EDY7 Here is the original video using the full Ford procedure- th-cam.com/video/HZuArjvEfRc/w-d-xo.html
You made this look easy. I have always avoided the 5.4 triton, but seeing this makes me think it might not be too bad. Now I just have to look up how to deal with the spark plug issue
Dude, Awesome video. I have seen a few of your views and I'm impressed more and more. I was a Ford Certified, you however have what I like to call gear head, know what your doing when it comes to thinking about the math and timing, and pulsewidth , that kind of stuff. Being I worked for ford for many years, it was a quicker burnout for me but guys like you reassure me that I still know what I'm doing, research first, and plug and play. Great video man. One of the more complex one's Ive seen you do but I prefer it. Thanks man
Thank you for the outstanding video. Just replaced the passenger side cam phaser per your instructions on my 2006 F150. No more knocking on cold startup!
This is EXACTLY what I needed. I was changing out the vvt solenoids and noticed that the coil spring on that phaser was broken. I didn't want to have to take off the timing cover because I've never done anything like this before, so it's nice to know that it can be done without taking it off.
It amazes me that you even have to make it crystal clear so many times about the alignment dowel being in the alignment hole lol. I feel if there are people who can’t comprehend that simple task maybe they probably shouldn’t be attempting this task lol Just my thoughts
Dude. obviously I've been working on a 5.4 3V. I've seen every video, read every forum, and you sir are a gem. you are the correct combination of "book" and "practical" if you were less than a thousand miles away from me, my truck would be in your shop
No, lol. He simply marked the R because it's easy to transfer to the new phaser without error. The colored chain links won't line up exactly with the L and R on the phasers for like 122 revolutions (don't quote me on that number but it's a lot). He marked the phaser for it's current position in relation to the chain.
I just finished installing phazers in 2009 F150 5.4. There is not any space to inject the cheese stick down in between the timing chain when you don't remove the timing chain cover. I therefore recommend that you don't do this alone. You are going to find it very difficult to manage removing the chain from the phazer as the chain is under tension which is released when you remove the phazer from the cam. I also recommend a pair of vice grips around the cam back of the phazer with the handle laying against the head. Even then with two people you will find it difficult and nerve racking trying to put phazer under the chain and then placing it on the cam while pulling against the tension.
Thank you for not underemphasizing how critical placement of the timing chain wedge. Man if your chain slips off that crank sprocket you just got yourself another days worth of labor. Be super careful.
im probably going to have to do this to an 05 and this video seems to be an excellant guide thanks for posting, this should save a whole lotta time hopefully
Let me know how it goes! I’m hoping to do it on an 04 soon. Problem is, I’ve got a rlly light ticking noise on warm idle only, disappears on acceleration. You can hear the tick under driver side and passenger side wheel. I am not sure if it is the phasers since the phasers are located at the top of the engine, so wouldn’t that mean the tick would be heard from the top end? I don’t wanna throw phasers at it if it doesn’t need it! Thanks for any input.
I TOOK MY F150 to the dealer for a noise , they diagnosed phasers ,paid $1200.00 and the noise still the same ,now that I see your Chanel I think it was the rollers why in the world they didn’t tell me it could be those too? Dealers are bad , end up selling my truck to car max and bought a 01 tundra with low mileage and don’t regret it , by the way good job.
Hi, thanks for your great quality videos, you are very well spoken. I attempted a drivers side cam phaser replacement on a 2005 F-150 that we recently did a timing chain and tensioner kit on. One of the tensioners had the infamous blown seal and the engine was noisy. We caught it before the guides broke luckily. It was still somewhat noisy after the timing job, so I replaced the VCT solenoids with Ford parts. Still no better, so I attempted the drivers side cam phaser. Marking the cam cap and intake lobe paid off big time. I went one step further and clamped a small pair of vice grips on the cast part of the cam shaft and locked it against the inner side of the cylinder head just to be sure. I made my own "cheese block" from a piece of MDF trim and a coat hanger. I drilled a hole down through the cheese block and put a 1/4 inch bolt through it with a lock washer and a nut on it to be sure I would be able to tug on it enough to get it back out. The coat hanger was twisted around the bolt, so it was very solid and not going to fall off. It worked fine. I would have ordered the OTC tool, but there were none available. When I removed the phaser, I found out you really mean "11 o'clock" I wasn't quite there and my cam moved clockwise about 5 degrees when the phaser came off the cam. Luckily with the vice grips still attached to the cam, I was able to use one hand to rotate the cam back to where it was, but this only allowed one hand to try to get the phaser back on square. This is where I learned how easy it is to get it on crooked. It was tight as my timing set is new, but I managed to get it back on okay. I used a torque angle gage to do the final 90 degrees....it worked better than the paint marker trick. They are cheap. This is an excellent video. Total project time for the drivers side was about 3.25 hours, except that while standing on the front crossmember to get the valve cover bolts out (why Ford must you have like 15 bolts, when an LS engine has 4) I managed to break an already somewhat rotted tranny cooler line...lol. When I started it up, it ran great, but spewed tranny fluid all over my floor. I managed to patch it with fuel line hose and clamps until Thursday when the lines are getting replaced. Thanks a bunch!
How did you get the phaser back on the driver side? I replaced all timing components also and it's so tight I'm finding it impossible to get the phaser back on. Any tips or tricks?
@@damiananey997 Honestly it was tight for sure. I could have used a third hand, but it was late an nobody was around to help. I used one hand on the vice grip (not clamped on a lobe of course to prevent scratching) and moved the cam back into position where it was (I had paint marked the cam in reference to one of the cam towers) it had moved about 2 degrees due to spring tension. I held the phaser in the other hand with the chain on it (chain link marked in reference to the phaser). I used my left hand to pull up and moved the cam slightly back and fourth with the vice grips until I felt the dowel pin on the phaser slip into the cam. I then carefully tightened the bolt. Be sure to take measurements from the front cam tower to the back of the phaser as per FTM videos to ensure you have the phaser fully seated on the cam and SQUARE to the cam. It must run true on there otherwise major engine damage will occur. My suggestion is to get a helper....this would likely be much easier.
I HAVE A 02 F250 SUPER DUTY WITH 5.4 TRITON its making the same noise as a bad cam phaser it would make the noise at an idle then if i tap the gas it would stop than start back up so i got to amazon ordered the phasers valve cover gaskets and the cheese wedge ive watched the fast procedure video. over a dozen times hoping i dont miss anything but its been a big help ill comment back with my results hahaha. thanks man
Awesome and informative videos. I'm about to crack my 2008 Expedition open as it sounds like a diesel and all indications are that the phasers at the very least need to be replaced. I found I'm only about an hour from BSG as I'm in SE-Wisconsin. Starting to wonder if I should just bring this awesome guy some business instead of doing it myself.
EVAN, STUPENDOUS IDEAL! BUT I GET A STRONG,VERY STRONG SUSPICION THAT IF YOU DO CONTACT BSG,FOR BUSINESS, YOU WILL HAVE A MUCH LONGER WAIT THAT YOU MIGHT THINK! THAT SAID, THAT IS AN OPINION, JUST MY OPINION. BUT GUYS LIKE THIS GUY,AS GOOD AS THIS GUY IS,HAVE ALL THE WORK THEY WANT AND THEN SOME!! IM ALMOST ONE HUNDRED PERCENT CERTAIN THAT THIS MAN TURNS DOWN ENOUGH WORK TO KEEP ,ID SAY AT LEAST TWO MORE MECHANICS WORKING!! WORD OF MOUTH,THERE IS NO BETTER ADVERTISING. AND PEOPLE, MOST PEOPLE WILL BE THRILLED TO FORK OVER MUCH MORE MONEY FOR A)QUAILITY PARTS AND MORE IMPORTANTLY B)HONEST,FAIR AND UPFRONT MECHANICS. WORKIN ON CARS AND TRUCKS HAVE CHANGED SO MUCH IN THE LAST TEN TO FIFTEEN YEARS,AND TO FIND HONEST AND KNOWLEDGEABLE MECHANICS LIKE THIS GUY,IS NOT AN EASY FIND. ALL THAT ASIDE,BEST OF LUCK WITH YOUR VEHICLE!
Thanks for your response.Ive done one set of VCT's at the Ford Dlr I work at yrs ago & didnt remember removing them.Im pretty sure I just had the lobes so the base of the lobe was touching the cam.
$2k to replace these can phasers, at only 100k miles. $500 to replace a bad spark plug design. Great design, Ford. There should be recalls on these engines
Yep ford had to payout alot of money to people who had to deal with the broken sparkplug issue. Also they had to replace the cam phasers for free if you were under a certain mileage and years. Unfortunately for me by the time I got the notice on the phasers it was too late. Looks like I will be doing it myself. Only at 52,000 miles on my 07 f150
The 5.4 was always a problematic motor. The 4.6L was always far more reliable. Which is why I chose this motor. 128k and never had motor work done. Just changed the oil and did the maintence. But there is maintence people didn't even know they had to do. Such as VCT solenoids having to he changed at 60-70k. Or stuff of that nature. Not to be using base oil. Only using Ford's certified oil or higher. People don't realize that not doing the proper maintence will lead to a bad motor later on.
I am in the same situation with only 108,000 miles I have to have the expensive repair done on my F-150. I had the plugs changed out at 100,000 miles same cost because I researched the issue of plugs breaking so I paid Ford to do the work. Very poor design on Fords part. Ford needs to have this on the recall list because most engines should run at least 150k to 200k without this type of major repair.
Thank you for the great video. I am not a mechanic but I just had all timing and cams done on my truck. Still running like crap, off to shop 4th time. I did not use a ford mechanic and regret not doing this. Spend $3500 and truck is still pulling code Poo22-poo12. The people I used all aftermarket parts. Crap!! Now my truck is going to a certified ford mechanic. I’m elderly and disabled so I can’t do the work myself. Lesson learned!! Thank you
I have an 04 f150 I bought new. It started ticking at 90,000 miles. It's now at 230000 miles. I do my own oil changes started at 90,000 mile mark. Driving this truck for 20 years.
I guess I was lucky. When I did the driver's side phaser on my 05, I just basically marked the first lobe to the first cam cap and removed the phaser. The cam shifted from the 12 o clock position to about the 3 o clock position as I removed it. I was able to turn the cam back to 12 o clock with a pair of locking vise grips that I locked on the cam between the phaser and the first cam cap. I pressed the phaser on and it all locked in place, didn't have an issue after that.
I don't know from fords that well , but I think your apprehensions bout valve crash from a rolled are cam might be unfounded. I have done literally hundreds of GM , Chevy , Opel , Toyota , Honda etc hitter engines and the confluence of events necessary to actually bend a valve is pretty rare. Not saying be careless, but just common sense keeps most people out of trouble . For IP I have actually tested this by rolling a cam back with a wrench deliberately and not crashed . I have seen rookies jump 4-6 teeth on a chain or a belt , I even accidentally did it myself once and not crashed even after start up. LOVE your vid , you're clearly a sharp technician.
Just performed this today on my 2010 4.6 stx 4x4 with 130xxx miles. Thought maybe it was a rocker or a lifter but come to find out it was the phaser because after the oil warmed up and thinned out you could hear knocking noise. No more knocking. The camshaft did turn while I was putting in the new phaser but thank goodness I marked it. Grab some vise grips and turned it back. Now I just got to figure out why the truck almost has a shutter while driving. Local transmission shop said wasn't the transmission. Put on a new transmission mount and I still have a problem. Wondering if it needs a whole new timing chain now. Thinking about just driving to your shop @fordtechmakuloco. Thanks for all the help so far 👍
Great video, taking mine apart at the moment for a lifter replacement. One thing you don't see anywhere discussed online is how to distinguish between lifter and phaser noise. My tapping noise for example can be heard at all rpms and engine temps. When I hold the stethoscope to the valve cover, I don't hear any tapping coming from the phaser area. The noise seems to be coming from the rear or bottom of the engine. So I'm taking a shoot in the dark and am replacing the followers and lifters on the driver side. Any reliable way to tell the difference between lifter and phaser noise?
Just an update to everyone following: Mine turned out to be a bad lifter which caused the cam follower to fail. I removed the cam and replaced all lifters and followers. What led me to believe its the lifter/follower rather than the cam phaser: The official TSB on this issue. The TSB describes the different noises and states that if the noise is there always, at all temps and rpms, it is most likely a bad lifter.
youre a god among men.. i had a ticking, turns out my headers were rotted, had them changed, STILL ticking ! I dam near had a heart attack knowing what that ticking might very well be.... turns out my mechanic found a defective brand new manifold gasket! I couldnt have been more relieved! I hope my 2010 never has the cam phaser issue, i just dont wanna spend the thousands on the job for a truck that rusted to hell already :(
You can use a rag (double folded) just behind the phaser, where, in the video, Brian does the measurement (from back of phaser to cam cap) before and after the phaser install and "CAREFULLY" use a vise grips to turn the cam where you need it. (Make sure to use caution and common sense) the rag, thick or doubled, and the vise grips just tight enough not to slip and score the cam but not so tight that you cause crushing issues to the cam. I have used this method when switching out to bigger (performance) cams. I have a 5.4 3v and a 4.6 3v torn down right this second and Brian's video's have been worth more than Gold, silver and diamonds to me! PLEASE SUBSCRIBE, LIKE "AND " SEND HIS ACCOUNT SOME TYPE OF DONATION!!! He has helped thousands of us and he deserves something, Hell, ANY donation, ANY amount helps the cause. Thank you Brian for being so selfless and using your precious time to help us! It means the world to some of us!
So you're saying that you do NOT have to remove the 3 roller followers on each cam once you have the crankshaft keyway at the noon position? That's the more risky part? If so, I really wish I would have watched this before using your 4 part series... I removed 5 of the six roller followers with a flathead (not the special tool) and can't get the last one (closest to firewall on passenger side). Is there any danger in using the method in this video and leaving that last roller follower on?
Hey Brian, I have crank at 12 and trying remove rocker followers. I got 5 removed from 1-4-5 cylinders. But cylinder 8 exhaust spring seems to be compressed? What can I do?
Im about to order parts and do this, and im following your video 100%. If theres been any updates or changes in the last year since the video was posted, please let me know!
After watching the video I now understand that I can just change phases without timing as long as it's done the way you explained in detail. sorry for the dumb question before watching the video . thanks for the great.
Each phaser is universal (for left and right), they each have an L and an R on opposite sides of the face. So you just rotate it 180 depending on the bank, when doing the initial timing. But you’ve probably found that out in the 2 years since this comment lol
Hi, I was think of trading my 2010 f150 fx4 with 75000 miles an ford wanted to give me 19000...now the mechanic cam out to check car and said phasers have to be changed and now they are offering my 14000. not sure what to do. anybody thoughts would be greatful
No way I think it is worth it to follow this video and fix it yourself and get your $5k back! Parts are listed in the video description at a substantial discount compared to the dealer.
I had to change a cam on a 3 valve and nobody had the wedge in stock so I stole some pics off the inter web and carved one out of pine added a long wire handle worked like a champ what really surprised me is how close my fab job looks to the right tool that finally came in three weeks later
I have a 2010 f150 4.6l 3v. Would the procedure be the same? I really appreciate all of your videos because they have helped me save some serious cash!
So did you take out the three roller followers on each side...or did you just leave them in? That is my only question. Video was great. You just said normally you would, but that didn't mean you actually left them in. I have to do this on my truck...so that is why I am wondering. Thank you in advance
Now, I am little confused on the cheese. Is that a Mild Cheddar or a Sharp cheddar? Joking! But seriously speaking, thank you Brian for making these outstanding videos. You are a 5.4L 3V god and i appreciate your videos, they have saved me tons.
Tried a while ago. Maybe this time it'll reach you. My 06 had tons of misfires caused my bad boots and plugs. All that was fixed and now I get no misfire codes, but the truck lacks power (like a plugged cat) and has a tough time going over 40 to 50 mph. I dont get any codes, which is odd. I did drop it iff at a "mechanic" and he said it was the phasers, which is fine, I just want to try and verify thats what it is before I open her up. Hopefully, this will reach you. Thanks a ton for the videos, subscribed.
thanks for the videos Ford should hire you to do technical training videos. I have a 09 f-150 with the phaser noise. I think i'm going to do complete timing set plus the oil pump you recommend and hopefully that will solve the clacking and missing problem.
I was diagnosing a ticking sound on the driver side and was certain I had a bad roller/follower or lash adjuster, but all checked out to be good. I am left with thinking the cam phaser needs replaced. Would you recommend leaving all of the roller/followers out on the driver side to replace the phaser, or replace them all and position the cylinder 5 intake cam lobes to the 11 o'clock position as stated in your video? Your advice is greatly appreciated! Great channel. I have watched MANY of your videos on the 5.4L 3V and they are EXTREMELY helpful!!! Thank you!
FordTechMakuloco I have a 06 3v navigator with 105k miles on her. She still purs like a kitten. I've been using 5-30 pennzoil synthetic since first oil change. Only reason the 5-20 is used is for better gas mileage.
another great video. have your ever had the piece of cheese come off the bar and stay locked in the chain when you are just doing the phaser and don't have the front cover off??
+Brandon Beard no because OTC revised the tool early on and added "branches" to the end of the stick then the plastic was molded over it so now it's near impossible to happen
Keeping this video around in case I start to discover any issues. My only problem is a plasticky rattle that lasts for about a second when I cold start the car after a few days of sitting. This started happening after I bumped into someone at 5mph. Hopefully not a big deal, mechanically everything is fine.
according to your video, changing phasers might not be too hard. But is it necessary to adjust cam lobes? If so how do I determine that, also do you offer a video that explains how to to adjust the lobes? Obviously I am a novice
I did the drivers side on my 05 Expedition last week. I have a set of modified vise grips with rubber caps for the jaws that I clamp on a cam lobe with the back handle against the head to keep the cam in place. If it does move, it will be in the other direction and I can just move it over against the head again. This week will be the passenger side, but I'm concerned about the valve cover on that side. Lots of complaints about not being able to get it off because of the A/C condenser line. Some say they have evac'ed the system and disconnected the lines, others said they took out the motor mount and lowered the engine. I'm going to do everything I can to not do either if at all possible.
When i did it to my 05 expedition i used a wide clamp on one of the cpu bolts and other side of the clamp on the ac line. It needs to be moved about an inch vertically. It feels dangerous to push it that far but i did it without problems. If you choose to do what i did be careful to not move it any further than absolutely necessary. If i had to do it again i would still do it this way.
Awesome Video Brian! Excellent Step by Step Procedures. I think I heard you mentioning the cam phaser repair will affect almost every all of the modular modular motors at one time or another. I have a 2009 F150 4.6L 3v with about 56K miles on it now. When should I consider having the phasers replaced? I prefer to stay ahead of the repairs when it comes vehicles. Can I use this procedure to do the repair?
I'm not sure if you can stay ahead of this repair or not.... When it happens, it happens. I believe the only thing you can do is ensure you are changing you oil like you should and using quality stuff. I believe most are still agreeing the motorcraft oil filter is still the only one that should be installed on these motors, 5.4 and 4.6. Some have run 5W30 with good results and some that have ran this weight still ended up with cam phasers failing. I think Jasper engines has a good video explaining how and why these engines are failing.
Hey I followed this extremely carefully one side at a time. Driver side, no problem. After I replaced the passenger side it runs really rough after 10-20 seconds. I used all OEM parts, replaced the phasers, bolts, and VCT selenoids, and a local shop said it is off on the timing be 55 degrees. I was very careful with the paint exactly as you did, nothing shifted during the job. I am about to open it up again but I'm not sure I want to advance the phaser a tooth as the mechanic suggested, I am sure I put it on the same tooth position. I am thinking it might be the washer on the phaser bolt or maybe a faulty solenoid. How can I verify if the timing is correct without pulling the front cover?
Greatest info and advice I’ve seen. I have a fx4 f150 06. Cam phaser are getting noisy and I cannot change them until June due to funds and time. Is there anything that could help keep this situation safe until then? Additives, Lucas to make it possibly last until June. I realize you don’t know how bad it really is going off what I’m telling you, but I would appreciate it. If there’s something I could do to just keep it going until then thank any of you also for your input, I would appreciate it it has 195,000 miles on it. It is the 5.4. 3 valve.
Thanks for another great video tech. I have a 2010 with the 5.4 , # 2 has a broken intake valve spring . Can I just remove the passenger head or will driver side need opened up also ? Also should I get radiator and coolers out of my way for this job ? Truck has electric fans and looks like there is room . Thanks again.
If you just pull the valve covers off and remove the VCT solenoid it looks like it would be a lot easier to get that piece of cheese down in there into the chain. Would that work? Would I be able to get that piece of cheese down in there easier with the VCT solenoid removed? Love your videos, they are simply the best.
My truck is about to be payed off it's and 09 fx4 . And the knocking is starting to get a little more noticeable. I'll definitely follow you instructions. Rather pay 5K to do it my self them to buy a new 40K truck.
Have a 2006 Ford F150. Started knocking like if the phasers were going out. I watch your videos and ended replacing the VCT solenoid back in August of 2023. It seem to have fix it. But now I'm getting the same knocking but it only after the engines warm up any ideas. Thank you in advance.
First of all, thanks SO MUCH for all of the amazing 5.4L 3V videos you've filmed and shared with all of us. They have given a perfect idea of what I'm getting into. What I was wondering is if I can get away with not removing the roller followers (with the special tool) if I'm going to replace the chain, chain guides, tensioners, bottom (crank) sprocket, AND cam phasers? I was thinking I could position the cams just like you showed in this video, mark the relation of each chain to the cam sprocket and crank sprocket, and then count the links between the markings on the old chain, make the same markings on the new chains, and reinstall??? Or am I missing something major here?? Thanks a bunch!!!!!
By the way, I just looked at my new Cloyes chains and they seem to have markings on the links. Two side-by-side links have a black face, and 180 degrees from that is a single black-faced link. Does that mean I should be good as long as I don't allow the cams nor crank to rotate?
Have 08 5.4 3v replacing phasers timing chain VVT solenoids and replacing or reusing roller followers and lash adjusters. Installing new Melling HV oil pump. Should I use MH340 or MH360. If I use the 360 is that overkill or is the benefit worth it.
Do I need to remove the timing chain cover in order to do this? I know this video is 8 years old but I have a 2011 Ford expedition with 200,000 mi that is starting to give me phaser trouble I've already replaced the VCT cylinders both cam position sensors and the PCM. So popping the valve covers it's not a big deal but I don't remember if I could get the cam phaser off without pulling the timing chain cover?
I put a paint mark on the chain where the r/L mark is, use the wedge tool, I take the second cam cap off, put a small piece of computer paper under the cap, tighten the cap down just snug nothing crazy don’t distort the cam cap from cranking it down tight it doesn’t take much and this will make the cam not move while u swap the phaser then remove the cap take paper out, torque cam cap then phaser bolt. Ford master tech told me about this 15 years ago I’ve been doing them like this ever since.
This is gold
Can I change the camshaft using this method?
Do I need to remove the timing chain cover in order to do this? I know this video is 8 years old but I have a 2011 Ford expedition with 200,000 mi that is starting to give me phaser trouble I've already replaced the VCT cylinders both cam position sensors and the PCM. So popping the valve covers it's not a big deal but I don't remember if I could get the cam phaser off without pulling the timing chain?
@@Dyllanman I would say no. You have to remove all the cam caps. Paper would do you no good in this case.
Is computer paper different than regular copier paper?
I wanted to thank you for this video. This helped me diagnose my truck and then was critical in the repair. I followed everything exactly, and the outcome was perfect! A few notes for anyone else attempting this: Make the marks on the cam phasers and the cam lobes, as indicated in the video. My cams rolled just a little bit when I took the phasers off, so the marks were crucial. On the cam phasers, the "R" imprint is very close to where the pin is located on the back side that has to line up with the notch in the came shaft, and if your "cheese" is in properly, there is no play in the chain. Moving the cam shaft slightly to align was necessary due to the roll of the cam in my instance. The hardest part of the entire job is the rear valve cover bolts. Either I need to be taller, or I need a low-rider! Due to the rubber grommets on the valve cover bolts, make sure they are all aligned and seated in the holes prior to tightening anything down. Visual inspection through the wheel well is imperative. GREAT VIDEO and PERFECT INSTRUCTION! THANK YOU!!
What kind of signs that it shows when you need to replace them
@@michaelpatton5012 It sounded and felt like the truck was going to fall apart. It only did when it was warmed up and at idle. You'll know it when it happens. It makes a heck of a noise.
Can I ask how ya got the fam turned back and to stay in place?
@@azmadmonk1 If you utilize the tools identified in the video, the cam should not turn once you have the chain removed. I did have a set of helping hands that held/watched the cam shaft to make sure there was no movement. It will move if you don't use the tools properly. If you are thorough and careful, shouldn't be an issue.
Used this same process just yesterday on my 4.6 V8 Mustang. I didn't quite have the lobes at 11 and 8, after taking the phaser off the cam rotated a half inch or so. I figured no big deal, I'll hand rotate the engine to align the phaser to the cam and install it. While rotating the engine the chain sucked the wedge further towards the crank! Haha, I wrapped my tools up for the day and went inside.
Next day I was able to keep rotating the engine and aligned, torqued and finish installing the phaser then went on to fishing the wedge out.
My car runs smooth again and I have you to thank for guiding me through this seemingly daunting process! Thank you so much
Guys do not skip the marker process, it will save you so much time.
How did you guy remove the cam phaser bolt. My impact doesn’t fit between radiator and bolt. If i use the breaker bar, it keeps pulling the block inside alternating my 11 oclock
Jacob Wouldn't those cam locking tools keep ya in time or a pair of vice grips
@@wildwoodtopVice grips works too
I own a 2008 Navigator with 60gs on the odometer. Had the plugs changed before the class action law suit expired and have been watching your videos for tips on things i can do to get a longer life out of it. I recently changed to 5W30 full synthetic over the 5W20. I can not get over the difference in how everything smoothed out and quieted down at idle and higher speeds. It was so noticeable that my wife even commented on it. I hope i did it soon enough to avoid any major repair bills. Thanks for your channel.
You always know what you did REALLY worked when your lady notices
I changed to 5w30 too
Just completed driver's side on 2006 F-150. Couple of comments
1. I could not get the wedge in the way Brian describes it. There is a picture in the Ford installation bulletin that shows it going in on the outside of the head in front of the cam phaser. This worked for me and it was not in the way.
2. I did not have the cam positioned quite far enough and it moved when I took off the phaser. If it's marked like Brian said, no need to panic. It is easy to protect the cam shaft and put some vise grips on the area between the first lobe and the phaser seating area. Just realign the marks and put the phaser on.
3. Lastly, I could not source a single valve cover gasket and had to buy the whole set. Though probably not needed, the rubber doughnuts in the set can be replaced, but they are not sealing gaskets. They are used to control the force applied by the valve cover bolts. You have to cut them off the bolt sleeve and then push the new ones on over the sleeve. DO NOT try to remove the metal sleeve from the bolts.
Bro your a life saver I was bugging on how to get the can back to it original spot. Looking it I figured vices or piper wrench on the would work. Thanks for your input
Thank you!!!! The vicegrip advice was desperately needed!
wanted to thank you for your 4 part videos on cam phazers .i'm from marquette mi my 3 valve 2005 5.4 was very noisy was down in Memphis Tenn no one wanted to touch this job. looked at all your videos and drove my truck back to the UP .with the help of your videos I was able to do the job. my timing had jumped one link . used your advice all ford parts new melling 360 high volume oll pump (that one bolt was very scrary to put in lots of rags in oil pan.)but i got it .took foever!!!! to get oil pressure.it seamed!!! connected crank sensor and started and runs great with 300 miles on it we are going back to Memphis THANK YOU AGAIN FOR YOUR VIDEOS....
I just did my passenger side phaser .. thanks Brian .. the alignment mark saved me from disaster . I couldn’t get it aligned and my cam had shifted a few degrees. I was able to use large channel lock and got it on there. Thanks Brian …
Great series, I'm very impressed with the clarity and detail!
I was able to jam the cheese rod into the timing chain from the front side of the phaser and replace the phaser easily with no clearance issues in my 2008 F250 5.4 (with 378,000 miles on it). My cheese rod would not fit through the cavity in the procedure that you suggested. Just an FYI. My cam did move. I was able to move it back and the phaser slid rite on. I'm glad I market it! The engine runs like a top. Thanks!
Yea looking at his video. I'm pretty positive the positioning he is using to get the wedge tool in is physically impossible to do with the front cover on. He points the wedge at one point where it would be coming directly out the side of the front cover. I don't think the tool has the amount of bend to make that happen. In the Ford service manual the picture they show as reference shows it going in through the front. So that would be the proper way of doing this.
@@sethdrak3 Seth I'm working on a customers 2009 3v and I had to go in from the front of the phaser. I am surprised the amount of wear on the chain for only 117k miles on this vehicle. Still a great video.
I just did this today on my 2010 F-250. This is a great and well done vid, but I do have a couple comments. 1. Make sure you have in your head that the R phaser is actually the left as your looking at it, and vice versa for L. 2. If your chains are not very worn, there is little slack, and its very difficult to get that new phaser over the snout of the cam. Might as well pull the front cover and do the chains as well, the whole procedure is easier. 3. When your looking at your chains and the black links, lineing things up, keep in mind when the R and L on the phasers is at the very top, its at the top in relation to the cyl head, not 12 o'clock like a clock. Seems fundimental, but it fooled me for a bit. Those after market iron chain tensioners and higher volume oil pump are worthwhile and might as well do them if your gonna take the whole front of the engine apart. If you have a twin I-beam F-250, its very hard, or maybe impossible to get the oil pan off without jacking up the engine.
My guides were not disintegrated (I have 90K) so I was OK leaving the pan on. This means that new oil pump was difficult. The hardest part was those damn 8mm fasteners for the oil sucktion tube. One is merely very difficult. The inner one is damn near impossible. Make certain you have a cloth "bib" draped down into the oil pan so 'when' you drop one of those fasteners it will get caught and not go ting-ting-ting down into the depths of the main pan area. The near impossible one can be done if you have a ratcheting 8mm wrench and/or what used to be called an "ignition wrench". Its a tiny, thin 8mm. I have a Craftsman set of them from about 45 years ago when I worked on motorcycles. I am old and less agile and this is a full 3 day job from start to finish for me.
I intend for my regular cab stick shift "old school" F-250 last until Im too old to drive, doing this now before trouble has already started should be key to that strategy.
so nice to see how it's done in the shop and how much info you need to repair the vehicle brilliant video! I enjoyed it😃
This video is exactly what I needed to fix my 2012 Navigator. Your're a life saver! Keep up the great work bro!
20 + year ford tech here,, great video i never have a cam to jump because i cut a piece of plastic from a oil or antifreeze jug, remove the 2nd cam cap or further back and sanwich the plastic between cam and cap bearing and snug tight (no air tools as the cam cap will break) holds that cam perfectly. as stated in video make darn sure the dowell pin in phaser is there in place. don't eat the cheese. my personal truck 5.4 3 valve heads i sent off for a line bore and insert bearings like rod and main bearings, more important melling high volume oil pump more agressive cams, phaser lockouts reprogram to delete varible cam timing, headers + dyno tuning. results a tire roasting sob that still doesn't make the power of the coyote 5.0 stock. all this vct crap is supposed to help power and fuel economy. the 2004 and up f series is a heavier vehicle with a frame stronger than any gm garbage at the time. the 300 hp 5.4 3 valve never felt like a 300 hp engine in those heavy trucks but more like a old slant 6 dodge pick-up. my 2006 f-150 5.4 came un-glued at 280,000 miles and i only ran amszoil in it from 1st oil change on thru 280,000. having a pile of 5.4 3 valve cores at home went for the rebuild from the .030 over bore, line bored heads, block, cam phaser lockouts, more agressive cams, exhaust, dyno tunes. my mpg was around 17 mpg hwy before now is 19 mpg and sometimes 22mpg. and passes emissions. i was over 400 miles away from home when my engine failed, it never rattled, never had a phaser replacement or timing chains. a timing chain broke and locked it down and amszoil kept that weak crappy ford designed boat anchor together for 9.5 years and 280,000 miles.
Nice!
hey Charles nice plastic trick, thx. i am a 20 plus year tech about to start at a ford dealer, any more tips and tricks you can shoot my way? thx
Charles- Where did you get the cam phaser lockouts as I hate the idea of all those moving parts eventually failing.
I have to say this guy is good and explains stuff pretty damn good and knows his ford..thanks for the knowledge and tips.
Great job. Nice to see a true professional that understands the physics involved and the care taken during the process.
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Timing chain "cheese" wedge tool kit-
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Here is the original video using the full Ford procedure-
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You made this look easy. I have always avoided the 5.4 triton, but seeing this makes me think it might not be too bad. Now I just have to look up how to deal with the spark plug issue
In the ford garage I was at we used to have a hold down tool for the cams on the old 2valve triton motors. It made life so much easier
Dude, Awesome video. I have seen a few of your views and I'm impressed more and more. I was a Ford Certified, you however have what I like to call gear head, know what your doing when it comes to thinking about the math and timing, and pulsewidth , that kind of stuff. Being I worked for ford for many years, it was a quicker burnout for me but guys like you reassure me that I still know what I'm doing, research first, and plug and play. Great video man. One of the more complex one's Ive seen you do but I prefer it. Thanks man
Thank you for the outstanding video. Just replaced the passenger side cam phaser per your instructions on my 2006 F150. No more knocking on cold startup!
Your videos have helped me out with multiple personal vehicles now, thanks a lot man. Keep up the good work!
This video saved me a TON! used to doing the entire timing job not just phasers.
This is EXACTLY what I needed. I was changing out the vvt solenoids and noticed that the coil spring on that phaser was broken. I didn't want to have to take off the timing cover because I've never done anything like this before, so it's nice to know that it can be done without taking it off.
U can do it just go slow and don't get high or drunk while your doing it
It amazes me that you even have to make it crystal clear so many times about the alignment dowel being in the alignment hole lol. I feel if there are people who can’t comprehend that simple task maybe they probably shouldn’t be attempting this task lol
Just my thoughts
Dude. obviously I've been working on a 5.4 3V. I've seen every video, read every forum, and you sir are a gem. you are the correct combination of "book" and "practical" if you were less than a thousand miles away from me, my truck would be in your shop
hes got the right side timing mark on the left side
No, lol. He simply marked the R because it's easy to transfer to the new phaser without error. The colored chain links won't line up exactly with the L and R on the phasers for like 122 revolutions (don't quote me on that number but it's a lot). He marked the phaser for it's current position in relation to the chain.
I wonder how much he charges
I just finished installing phazers in 2009 F150 5.4. There is not any space to inject the cheese stick down in between the timing chain when you don't remove the timing chain cover. I therefore recommend that you don't do this alone. You are going to find it very difficult to manage removing the chain from the phazer as the chain is under tension which is released when you remove the phazer from the cam. I also recommend a pair of vice grips around the cam back of the phazer with the handle laying against the head. Even then with two people you will find it difficult and nerve racking trying to put phazer under the chain and then placing it on the cam while pulling against the tension.
thanks for a very detailed vid best i have ever seen on how to mount the cheese between the chain....
Thank you for not underemphasizing how critical placement of the timing chain wedge. Man if your chain slips off that crank sprocket you just got yourself another days worth of labor. Be super careful.
I know its an older vid
But this works great
Thanks for putting the time into your videos
im probably going to have to do this to an 05 and this video seems to be an excellant guide thanks for posting, this should save a whole lotta time hopefully
Let me know how it goes! I’m hoping to do it on an 04 soon. Problem is, I’ve got a rlly light ticking noise on warm idle only, disappears on acceleration. You can hear the tick under driver side and passenger side wheel. I am not sure if it is the phasers since the phasers are located at the top of the engine, so wouldn’t that mean the tick would be heard from the top end? I don’t wanna throw phasers at it if it doesn’t need it! Thanks for any input.
Great video.One question.Do you have a video of how to diagnose a phaser? Thanks again
I TOOK MY F150 to the dealer for a noise , they diagnosed phasers ,paid $1200.00 and the noise still the same ,now that I see your Chanel I think it was the rollers why in the world they didn’t tell me it could be those too? Dealers are bad , end up selling my truck to car max and bought a 01 tundra with low mileage and don’t regret it , by the way good job.
Hi, thanks for your great quality videos, you are very well spoken. I attempted a drivers side cam phaser replacement on a 2005 F-150 that we recently did a timing chain and tensioner kit on. One of the tensioners had the infamous blown seal and the engine was noisy. We caught it before the guides broke luckily. It was still somewhat noisy after the timing job, so I replaced the VCT solenoids with Ford parts. Still no better, so I attempted the drivers side cam phaser. Marking the cam cap and intake lobe paid off big time. I went one step further and clamped a small pair of vice grips on the cast part of the cam shaft and locked it against the inner side of the cylinder head just to be sure. I made my own "cheese block" from a piece of MDF trim and a coat hanger. I drilled a hole down through the cheese block and put a 1/4 inch bolt through it with a lock washer and a nut on it to be sure I would be able to tug on it enough to get it back out. The coat hanger was twisted around the bolt, so it was very solid and not going to fall off. It worked fine. I would have ordered the OTC tool, but there were none available. When I removed the phaser, I found out you really mean "11 o'clock" I wasn't quite there and my cam moved clockwise about 5 degrees when the phaser came off the cam. Luckily with the vice grips still attached to the cam, I was able to use one hand to rotate the cam back to where it was, but this only allowed one hand to try to get the phaser back on square. This is where I learned how easy it is to get it on crooked. It was tight as my timing set is new, but I managed to get it back on okay. I used a torque angle gage to do the final 90 degrees....it worked better than the paint marker trick. They are cheap. This is an excellent video. Total project time for the drivers side was about 3.25 hours, except that while standing on the front crossmember to get the valve cover bolts out (why Ford must you have like 15 bolts, when an LS engine has 4) I managed to break an already somewhat rotted tranny cooler line...lol. When I started it up, it ran great, but spewed tranny fluid all over my floor. I managed to patch it with fuel line hose and clamps until Thursday when the lines are getting replaced. Thanks a bunch!
How did you get the phaser back on the driver side? I replaced all timing components also and it's so tight I'm finding it impossible to get the phaser back on. Any tips or tricks?
@@damiananey997 Honestly it was tight for sure. I could have used a third hand, but it was late an nobody was around to help. I used one hand on the vice grip (not clamped on a lobe of course to prevent scratching) and moved the cam back into position where it was (I had paint marked the cam in reference to one of the cam towers) it had moved about 2 degrees due to spring tension. I held the phaser in the other hand with the chain on it (chain link marked in reference to the phaser). I used my left hand to pull up and moved the cam slightly back and fourth with the vice grips until I felt the dowel pin on the phaser slip into the cam. I then carefully tightened the bolt. Be sure to take measurements from the front cam tower to the back of the phaser as per FTM videos to ensure you have the phaser fully seated on the cam and SQUARE to the cam. It must run true on there otherwise major engine damage will occur. My suggestion is to get a helper....this would likely be much easier.
How did you clean up the tranny fluid? Your garage must still smell like 🦕 dead dinosaur juice 🤮 😂
I HAVE A 02 F250 SUPER DUTY WITH 5.4 TRITON its making the same noise as a bad cam phaser it would make the noise at an idle then if i tap the gas it would stop than start back up so i got to amazon ordered the phasers valve cover gaskets and the cheese wedge ive watched the fast procedure video. over a dozen times hoping i dont miss anything but its been a big help ill comment back with my results hahaha. thanks man
OK thanks for the info. I had already bought all the part before I found this video 2 phasers 2 siloniod 2 value cover gasket should be set
I did the same thing. Lol
@@joearreola5293 looking to do the same thing . Was gonna do the whole chain but found this . How do it go afterwards? Still running good ?
Good video as usual, what do you think about the phaser lock out kits?
Thanks.....you don’t know how much the common man appreciates you
Awesome and informative videos. I'm about to crack my 2008 Expedition open as it sounds like a diesel and all indications are that the phasers at the very least need to be replaced. I found I'm only about an hour from BSG as I'm in SE-Wisconsin. Starting to wonder if I should just bring this awesome guy some business instead of doing it myself.
EVAN,
STUPENDOUS IDEAL!
BUT I GET A STRONG,VERY STRONG SUSPICION THAT IF YOU DO CONTACT BSG,FOR BUSINESS, YOU WILL HAVE A MUCH LONGER WAIT THAT YOU MIGHT THINK!
THAT SAID, THAT IS AN OPINION, JUST MY OPINION. BUT GUYS LIKE THIS GUY,AS GOOD AS THIS GUY IS,HAVE ALL THE WORK THEY WANT AND THEN SOME!!
IM ALMOST ONE HUNDRED PERCENT CERTAIN THAT THIS MAN TURNS DOWN ENOUGH WORK TO KEEP ,ID SAY AT LEAST TWO MORE MECHANICS WORKING!! WORD OF MOUTH,THERE IS NO BETTER ADVERTISING. AND PEOPLE, MOST PEOPLE WILL BE THRILLED TO FORK OVER MUCH MORE MONEY FOR A)QUAILITY PARTS AND MORE IMPORTANTLY
B)HONEST,FAIR AND UPFRONT MECHANICS.
WORKIN ON CARS AND TRUCKS HAVE CHANGED SO MUCH IN THE LAST TEN TO FIFTEEN YEARS,AND TO FIND HONEST
AND KNOWLEDGEABLE MECHANICS LIKE THIS GUY,IS NOT AN EASY FIND.
ALL THAT ASIDE,BEST OF LUCK WITH YOUR VEHICLE!
Thanks for your response.Ive done one set of VCT's at the Ford Dlr I work at yrs ago & didnt remember removing them.Im pretty sure I just had the lobes so the base of the lobe was touching the cam.
$2k to replace these can phasers, at only 100k miles.
$500 to replace a bad spark plug design.
Great design, Ford. There should be recalls on these engines
How is there not class action lawsuit?
Yep ford had to payout alot of money to people who had to deal with the broken sparkplug issue. Also they had to replace the cam phasers for free if you were under a certain mileage and years. Unfortunately for me by the time I got the notice on the phasers it was too late. Looks like I will be doing it myself. Only at 52,000 miles on my 07 f150
The 5.4 was always a problematic motor. The 4.6L was always far more reliable. Which is why I chose this motor. 128k and never had motor work done. Just changed the oil and did the maintence. But there is maintence people didn't even know they had to do. Such as VCT solenoids having to he changed at 60-70k. Or stuff of that nature. Not to be using base oil. Only using Ford's certified oil or higher. People don't realize that not doing the proper maintence will lead to a bad motor later on.
I am in the same situation with only 108,000 miles I have to have the expensive repair done on my F-150. I had the plugs changed out at 100,000 miles same cost because I researched the issue of plugs breaking so I paid Ford to do the work. Very poor design on Fords part. Ford needs to have this on the recall list because most engines should run at least 150k to 200k without this type of major repair.
hhhh9579 where can I find this kit?
Thank you for the great video. I am not a mechanic but I just had all timing and cams done on my truck. Still running like crap, off to shop 4th time. I did not use a ford mechanic and regret not doing this. Spend $3500 and truck is still pulling code Poo22-poo12. The people I used all aftermarket parts. Crap!! Now my truck is going to a certified ford mechanic. I’m elderly and disabled so I can’t do the work myself. Lesson learned!! Thank you
Very concise detail and instruction. thank you for taking your time to show the correct and best way to repair and learn.
I have an 04 f150 I bought new. It started ticking at 90,000 miles. It's now at 230000 miles. I do my own oil changes started at 90,000 mile mark. Driving this truck for 20 years.
I guess I was lucky. When I did the driver's side phaser on my 05, I just basically marked the first lobe to the first cam cap and removed the phaser. The cam shifted from the 12 o clock position to about the 3 o clock position as I removed it. I was able to turn the cam back to 12 o clock with a pair of locking vise grips that I locked on the cam between the phaser and the first cam cap. I pressed the phaser on and it all locked in place, didn't have an issue after that.
That what I was thinking for emergency problem if I do my.
I don't know from fords that well , but I think your apprehensions bout valve crash from a rolled are cam might be unfounded. I have done literally hundreds of GM , Chevy , Opel , Toyota , Honda etc hitter engines and the confluence of events necessary to actually bend a valve is pretty rare.
Not saying be careless, but just common sense keeps most people out of trouble . For IP I have actually tested this by rolling a cam back with a wrench deliberately and not crashed . I have seen rookies jump 4-6 teeth on a chain or a belt , I even accidentally did it myself once and not crashed even after start up.
LOVE your vid , you're clearly a sharp technician.
nice clear instructions, thumbs up.
Just performed this today on my 2010 4.6 stx 4x4 with 130xxx miles. Thought maybe it was a rocker or a lifter but come to find out it was the phaser because after the oil warmed up and thinned out you could hear knocking noise. No more knocking. The camshaft did turn while I was putting in the new phaser but thank goodness I marked it. Grab some vise grips and turned it back. Now I just got to figure out why the truck almost has a shutter while driving. Local transmission shop said wasn't the transmission. Put on a new transmission mount and I still have a problem. Wondering if it needs a whole new timing chain now. Thinking about just driving to your shop @fordtechmakuloco. Thanks for all the help so far 👍
Great video, taking mine apart at the moment for a lifter replacement. One thing you don't see anywhere discussed online is how to distinguish between lifter and phaser noise. My tapping noise for example can be heard at all rpms and engine temps. When I hold the stethoscope to the valve cover, I don't hear any tapping coming from the phaser area. The noise seems to be coming from the rear or bottom of the engine.
So I'm taking a shoot in the dark and am replacing the followers and lifters on the driver side.
Any reliable way to tell the difference between lifter and phaser noise?
Just an update to everyone following: Mine turned out to be a bad lifter which caused the cam follower to fail. I removed the cam and replaced all lifters and followers. What led me to believe its the lifter/follower rather than the cam phaser: The official TSB on this issue. The TSB describes the different noises and states that if the noise is there always, at all temps and rpms, it is most likely a bad lifter.
Good video, very informative. Gotta do this job on my ford, actually didn’t know what these were until I watched this, many thanks.
Hey bro, once again you saved me big $$.
U Da Man!
👍
youre a god among men.. i had a ticking, turns out my headers were rotted, had them changed, STILL ticking ! I dam near had a heart attack knowing what that ticking might very well be.... turns out my mechanic found a defective brand new manifold gasket! I couldnt have been more relieved! I hope my 2010 never has the cam phaser issue, i just dont wanna spend the thousands on the job for a truck that rusted to hell already :(
Good vid. would like to know how to turn cam if it does slip out of time. Thx
You can use a rag (double folded) just behind the phaser, where, in the video, Brian does the measurement (from back of phaser to cam cap) before and after the phaser install and "CAREFULLY" use a vise grips to turn the cam where you need it. (Make sure to use caution and common sense) the rag, thick or doubled, and the vise grips just tight enough not to slip and score the cam but not so tight that you cause crushing issues to the cam. I have used this method when switching out to bigger (performance) cams. I have a 5.4 3v and a 4.6 3v torn down right this second and Brian's video's have been worth more than Gold, silver and diamonds to me! PLEASE SUBSCRIBE, LIKE "AND " SEND HIS ACCOUNT SOME TYPE OF DONATION!!! He has helped thousands of us and he deserves something, Hell, ANY donation, ANY amount helps the cause. Thank you Brian for being so selfless and using your precious time to help us! It means the world to some of us!
@@ivanlaney2336 But how can you hurt the cam right there?
thank you for posting this video ,the way you explained everything was excellent your an awesome teacher and mechanic /Tec thank you
So you're saying that you do NOT have to remove the 3 roller followers on each cam once you have the crankshaft keyway at the noon position? That's the more risky part? If so, I really wish I would have watched this before using your 4 part series... I removed 5 of the six roller followers with a flathead (not the special tool) and can't get the last one (closest to firewall on passenger side). Is there any danger in using the method in this video and leaving that last roller follower on?
+ChaseBrumfield In order to time the engine right all followers should be removed so the cams can be set perfectly in position.
Hey Brian, I have crank at 12 and trying remove rocker followers. I got 5 removed from 1-4-5 cylinders. But cylinder 8 exhaust spring seems to be compressed? What can I do?
Im about to order parts and do this, and im following your video 100%. If theres been any updates or changes in the last year since the video was posted, please let me know!
No updates still the latest parts.
I wish I would’ve watched this before I bought a special tool, I could’ve just used cheese.
After watching the video I now understand that I can just change phases without timing as long as it's done the way you explained in detail. sorry for the dumb question before watching the video . thanks for the great.
In this video, shouldn't the Phaser have and L on it. It's the left side of the engine.
Each phaser is universal (for left and right), they each have an L and an R on opposite sides of the face. So you just rotate it 180 depending on the bank, when doing the initial timing. But you’ve probably found that out in the 2 years since this comment lol
You are definitely the Ford go to guy! Thanks for the Video
Hi, I was think of trading my 2010 f150 fx4 with 75000 miles an ford wanted to give me 19000...now the mechanic cam out to check car and said phasers have to be changed and now they are offering my 14000. not sure what to do. anybody thoughts would be greatful
No way I think it is worth it to follow this video and fix it yourself and get your $5k back! Parts are listed in the video description at a substantial discount compared to the dealer.
Do you charge $5k to fix it? I'm about to pull the trigger on an 06' Mark with 200k miles listed for $9k.
@@icawn The entire timing job isn't THAT hard if you follow Brian's vids and take your time. Use Ford parts and the Melling 340HV oil pump though.
I wish you were located down here in Texas. I'd trust you 100% to do the work on my truck!
What do you charge for this service?
Jesse Cooney $2.63 and a kit kat bar
I had to change a cam on a 3 valve and nobody had the wedge in stock so I stole some pics off the inter web and carved one out of pine added a long wire handle worked like a champ what really surprised me is how close my fab job looks to the right tool that finally came in three weeks later
I just wanna know what kind of cheese is that😂😂
Cheddar
I think it looks like swiss
I have a 2010 f150 4.6l 3v. Would the procedure be the same? I really appreciate all of your videos because they have helped me save some serious cash!
We got a bleeder hahaha
So did you take out the three roller followers on each side...or did you just leave them in? That is my only question. Video was great. You just said normally you would, but that didn't mean you actually left them in. I have to do this on my truck...so that is why I am wondering. Thank you in advance
Now, I am little confused on the cheese. Is that a Mild Cheddar or a Sharp cheddar? Joking! But seriously speaking, thank you Brian for making these outstanding videos. You are a 5.4L 3V god and i appreciate your videos, they have saved me tons.
Tried a while ago. Maybe this time it'll reach you. My 06 had tons of misfires caused my bad boots and plugs. All that was fixed and now I get no misfire codes, but the truck lacks power (like a plugged cat) and has a tough time going over 40 to 50 mph. I dont get any codes, which is odd. I did drop it iff at a "mechanic" and he said it was the phasers, which is fine, I just want to try and verify thats what it is before I open her up. Hopefully, this will reach you. Thanks a ton for the videos, subscribed.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Just like Diesel Tech Ron
Thank you and I appreciate your expert knowledge for this repair and I will switch to 5w30
Man you make it all look so easy! I think I'll be doing this really soon. I have a constant tick and I believe this may help.
Did it help?
@@alexsoriano5173 I would check your roller followers if you have a constant tick
thanks for the videos Ford should hire you to do technical training videos. I have a 09 f-150 with the phaser noise. I think i'm going to do complete timing set plus the oil pump you recommend and hopefully that will solve the clacking and missing problem.
I've watched two of your videos so far and I give you two thumbs up. Well explained and shot video and I don't even own any ford vehicles.👍👍
I was diagnosing a ticking sound on the driver side and was certain I had a bad roller/follower or lash adjuster, but all checked out to be good. I am left with thinking the cam phaser needs replaced. Would you recommend leaving all of the roller/followers out on the driver side to replace the phaser, or replace them all and position the cylinder 5 intake cam lobes to the 11 o'clock position as stated in your video? Your advice is greatly appreciated! Great channel. I have watched MANY of your videos on the 5.4L 3V and they are EXTREMELY helpful!!! Thank you!
FordTechMakuloco I have a 06 3v navigator with 105k miles on her. She still purs like a kitten. I've been using 5-30 pennzoil synthetic since first oil change. Only reason the 5-20 is used is for better gas mileage.
another great video. have your ever had the piece of cheese come off the bar and stay locked in the chain when you are just doing the phaser and don't have the front cover off??
+Brandon Beard no because OTC revised the tool early on and added "branches" to the end of the stick then the plastic was molded over it so now it's near impossible to happen
Great videos. Any recommendations on the best Cam Phaser kit to buy.
Thanks for sharing friend watching from Canada 🇨🇦 I've learned a lot
Keeping this video around in case I start to discover any issues. My only problem is a plasticky rattle that lasts for about a second when I cold start the car after a few days of sitting. This started happening after I bumped into someone at 5mph. Hopefully not a big deal, mechanically everything is fine.
It works!!! Got my cam phasers changed out... Thanks!
I’m a bit confused but great vid. Also, I run the 5w-20 with Lucas oil stabilizer, so that thickens it up.
I’m with fordtechmakuloco, always use the exact oil the engine calls for
He also mention switching to 5w-30
according to your video, changing phasers might not be too hard. But is it necessary to adjust cam lobes? If so how do I determine that, also do you offer a video that explains how to to adjust the lobes? Obviously I am a novice
I did the drivers side on my 05 Expedition last week. I have a set of modified vise grips with rubber caps for the jaws that I clamp on a cam lobe with the back handle against the head to keep the cam in place. If it does move, it will be in the other direction and I can just move it over against the head again. This week will be the passenger side, but I'm concerned about the valve cover on that side. Lots of complaints about not being able to get it off because of the A/C condenser line. Some say they have evac'ed the system and disconnected the lines, others said they took out the motor mount and lowered the engine. I'm going to do everything I can to not do either if at all possible.
When i did it to my 05 expedition i used a wide clamp on one of the cpu bolts and other side of the clamp on the ac line. It needs to be moved about an inch vertically. It feels dangerous to push it that far but i did it without problems. If you choose to do what i did be careful to not move it any further than absolutely necessary. If i had to do it again i would still do it this way.
Awesome Video Brian! Excellent Step by Step Procedures. I think I heard you mentioning the cam phaser repair will affect almost every all of the modular modular motors at one time or another. I have a 2009 F150 4.6L 3v with about 56K miles
on it now. When should I consider having the phasers replaced? I prefer to stay ahead of the repairs when it comes vehicles. Can I use this procedure to do the repair?
I'm not sure if you can stay ahead of this repair or not.... When it happens, it happens. I believe the only thing you can do is ensure you are changing you oil like you should and using quality stuff. I believe most are still agreeing the motorcraft oil filter is still the only one that should be installed on these motors, 5.4 and 4.6.
Some have run 5W30 with good results and some that have ran this weight still ended up with cam phasers failing.
I think Jasper engines has a good video explaining how and why these engines are failing.
Where was your channel when I need it the most. Sigh she was a great truck till those damn cam phasers.
Great video bro!! Thanks. I gotta do mine next week!!
Hey I followed this extremely carefully one side at a time. Driver side, no problem. After I replaced the passenger side it runs really rough after 10-20 seconds. I used all OEM parts, replaced the phasers, bolts, and VCT selenoids, and a local shop said it is off on the timing be 55 degrees. I was very careful with the paint exactly as you did, nothing shifted during the job. I am about to open it up again but I'm not sure I want to advance the phaser a tooth as the mechanic suggested, I am sure I put it on the same tooth position. I am thinking it might be the washer on the phaser bolt or maybe a faulty solenoid. How can I verify if the timing is correct without pulling the front cover?
Greatest info and advice I’ve seen. I have a fx4 f150 06. Cam phaser are getting noisy and I cannot change them until June due to funds and time. Is there anything that could help keep this situation safe until then? Additives, Lucas to make it possibly last until June. I realize you don’t know how bad it really is going off what I’m telling you, but I would appreciate it. If there’s something I could do to just keep it going until then thank any of you also for your input, I would appreciate it it has 195,000 miles on it. It is the 5.4. 3 valve.
Thanks for another great video tech. I have a 2010 with the 5.4 , # 2 has a broken intake valve spring . Can I just remove the passenger head or will driver side need opened up also ? Also should I get radiator and coolers out of my way for this job ? Truck has electric fans and looks like there is room . Thanks again.
If you just pull the valve covers off and remove the VCT solenoid it looks like it would be a lot easier to get that piece of cheese down in there into the chain. Would that work? Would I be able to get that piece of cheese down in there easier with the VCT solenoid removed?
Love your videos, they are simply the best.
Could you please do a video about those phaser lock kits. pros, cons, and your opinion on them.
My truck is about to be payed off it's and 09 fx4 . And the knocking is starting to get a little more noticeable. I'll definitely follow you instructions. Rather pay 5K to do it my self them to buy a new 40K truck.
looks like a great idea.... as long as your timing chain guides aren't broken off...................
Wow fantastic video! nice job much easier the way you show it. kind of a nervous repair video. but you did a great job showing how to do do it!
I’m considering trying this myself if I buy an 11th Gen F150
Might be a good project to get to know my truck
I have heard change to a higher pressure oil pump helps to prevent re-occurrence of this problem. Is this true. Also great video. Thanks
Have a 2006 Ford F150. Started knocking like if the phasers were going out. I watch your videos and ended replacing the VCT solenoid back in August of 2023. It seem to have fix it. But now I'm getting the same knocking but it only after the engines warm up any ideas. Thank you in advance.
First of all, thanks SO MUCH for all of the amazing 5.4L 3V videos you've filmed and shared with all of us. They have given a perfect idea of what I'm getting into. What I was wondering is if I can get away with not removing the roller followers (with the special tool) if I'm going to replace the chain, chain guides, tensioners, bottom (crank) sprocket, AND cam phasers? I was thinking I could position the cams just like you showed in this video, mark the relation of each chain to the cam sprocket and crank sprocket, and then count the links between the markings on the old chain, make the same markings on the new chains, and reinstall??? Or am I missing something major here?? Thanks a bunch!!!!!
By the way, I just looked at my new Cloyes chains and they seem to have markings on the links. Two side-by-side links have a black face, and 180 degrees from that is a single black-faced link. Does that mean I should be good as long as I don't allow the cams nor crank to rotate?
Have 08 5.4 3v replacing phasers timing chain VVT solenoids and replacing or reusing roller followers and lash adjusters. Installing new Melling HV oil pump. Should I use MH340 or MH360. If I use the 360 is that overkill or is the benefit worth it.
Do I need to remove the timing chain cover in order to do this? I know this video is 8 years old but I have a 2011 Ford expedition with 200,000 mi that is starting to give me phaser trouble I've already replaced the VCT cylinders both cam position sensors and the PCM. So popping the valve covers it's not a big deal but I don't remember if I could get the cam phaser off without pulling the timing chain cover?
You don’t need to remove the timing cover if using the timing chain wedge.