I put a new purge valve one on my 2000 Ford Windstar while out of town Saturday morning. When the PCM commands it to open it sounds like an air horn as long as that 1/8 vacuum line is hooked up. I had to unplug the 1/8 inch vacuum line and cap it to get home 250 miles away.
@@bobspurloc Turns out the old purge valve was working fine. I took the new one off and put the old one back on after taking it apart and cleaning it all up like you did yours. My real problem was I had a p1450 code off and on for a while now- unable to upload tank vacuum. So I got to looking into the problem before we took our 250 mile trip to Tennessee to see my dad. I had taken the valve out and had run some test's on it which were all wrong ( I didn't know at the time that an always present vacuum opens the valve through the tiny 1/8 inch vacuum line when ground is applied to the always hot positive term) I failed to plug the connector all the way in when putting it all back on. It came unplugged which I did not know at the time 2 hrs from our destination and we started smelling fuel real bad through the see through(joking) dry rotted 3/8 inch line going from the purge valve to the intake. ( Which I still was unaware off at the time.) So we made the final 2 hrs with the windows down and started hunting for a purge valve. No one had one but could by Tuesday. Great we were leaving Sunday. I finally tried an off brand parts store and they could have one by 7am Saturday morning. Awesome I buy it and a piece of new 3/8 inch hose to replace the questionable dry looking hose from the valve to the intake. I get everything on and all is well or so I thought. We get headed home and all the sudden the new valve starts sounding like a saxaphone when the PCM commanded the purge valve to come on. To make it home in peace and quite after trying a few things, I unplugged and capped the tiny 1/8 inch vacuum line going to the new purge valve. I finally got good tests on the old and new valve today. I had to apply power to the valve and keep pumping my hand held vacuum tester to keep enough vacuum up for the valve to open and let me blow or suck through it. I'm gonna see if I can get a refund on the noisy wind instrument sounding valve.
@@RC-Heli835 so were u able to determine the issue is this valve? the egr system is such a pain. but reading up a p1450 is excessive vacuum so that's seems like a stuck valvl instead of a leak as its implying the pcm cant regulate the vacuum. I wonder if your fuel cap is hard to get off during this lol.
when you apply voltage to the coil it creates a magnetic force forcing the metal cap to move from closed to open. This allows the engine vacuum flow which removes vapors from the EVAP canister
lol. wow I thought I never uploaded this video. because I still have it in pieces on that chair LOL. I have tons of diodes to put in it but got bored with it all. rewatching it now. wow what a dummy I am LOL....the spring is most likely between the coil and metal plate. magnetize pulls in plate spring pushes it away after its demagnetized. still no clue what that screw is for into the plastic.
@@bobspurloc ok,o opened it by cutting a screw in a triangular shape,it was stucked.i cleaned with air and i streched a bit the springs.now i m checking the vacuum circuit:becas use the engine works right on fuel,but it doesn't in lpg.....thanks for the answear
The diode can't be checked unless you unsolder from the coil otherwise it will read the coil and appear to be shorted. The diode's only purpose is to clamp the kick back voltage when the coil's field collapses when power is removed. Using it like this, the anode would be the negative side and cathode would be on the positive. If you applied positive 12 volts to the anode, then you probably blew the diode. (The cathode is the end with the stripe)
yeah I said that and did that... as for blowing the diode I think I showed it can handle 100+ volts reverse as tends to be the case for all diodes they dont fry easy spec of GP10G diode "Vr - Reverse Voltage: 400 V" so yeah 12volts doesnt have a remote chance to fry any diode unless its faulty...
Well for evap issues its best to do a smoke test, then you can find leaks and not replace random parts. I believe I finally found my evap issue on this car and it was the gas fill tube rusting out. th-cam.com/video/m0aFMslGf60/w-d-xo.html
u can check rockauto to see if it's the same part number. I'm not sure what would have changed though. the only difference I believe between 2003 and 2006 is 2006 is drive by wire
Those suckers aren't cheap. Did you have any gas smell before you removed it ? I have an '02 Taurus, and I have a gas smell whenever I drive it. No check engine light or trouble code. It runs fine and starts right up. I'm getting bad gas mileage. Gas is escaping from somewhere. I tracked it down with an electronic gas detector to the rear of the car. The engine area has no gas leaks according to the detector and my nose.
so where in the rear? a crown vic and a taurus have absolutely nothing in common engine wise. I have several videos on the taurus that engine setup is a nightmare. all the orings and seals 100% will fail by 80k. but that isnt what your experiencing. you should do a smoke test. although I bet you are going to be sadly annoyed from the results of a smoke test on the taurus LOL... th-cam.com/video/4iKolZ4wDjk/w-d-xo.html funny though, on the crown vic I had the fill tube rust out I repaired it with jb weld. th-cam.com/video/m0aFMslGf60/w-d-xo.html do u not have any codes???
check the video I linked above for the gas fill pipe. but if you have that kind of hole you should have a code, or a pending code or a gas cap warning. not having any sort of vapor leak codes/pending codes though could mean a Fuel line is leaking or the gas tank has a hole in it or fuel filter hole
Dude u just wasted over an hour of my night because the title of your video said fix it yourself! Just pulled mine apart by your instructions and there is nothing wrong with mine. Please don't post of video of your constantly making mistakes, also spend more then $10 on a good meter before you waste yours or anybody elses time!
"I totally take this apart so you can see how to fix it properly instead of filling with fluids and praying..." this is what I stated so u can see how it works and how spraying fluids into it does nothing. I mistakes on purpose and some not so the viewer knows what to avoid, this is what I do and will continue to do. if I needed a better meter I would buy one but I understand what the meter is doing and what I expect to see it do, so I dont "require" such things.
Great video. You executed all angles of explaining it all.
I put a new purge valve one on my 2000 Ford Windstar while out of town Saturday morning. When the PCM commands it to open it sounds like an air horn as long as that 1/8 vacuum line is hooked up. I had to unplug the 1/8 inch vacuum line and cap it to get home 250 miles away.
do you have a leak or something else? smoke test it?
@@bobspurloc Turns out the old purge valve was working fine. I took the new one off and put the old one back on after taking it apart and cleaning it all up like you did yours.
My real problem was I had a p1450 code off and on for a while now- unable to upload tank vacuum. So I got to looking into the problem before we took our 250 mile trip to Tennessee to see my dad.
I had taken the valve out and had run some test's on it which were all wrong ( I didn't know at the time that an always present vacuum opens the valve through the tiny 1/8 inch vacuum line when ground is applied to the always hot positive term) I failed to plug the connector all the way in when putting it all back on.
It came unplugged which I did not know at the time 2 hrs from our destination and we started smelling fuel real bad through the see through(joking) dry rotted 3/8 inch line going from the purge valve to the intake. ( Which I still was unaware off at the time.) So we made the final 2 hrs with the windows down and started hunting for a purge valve.
No one had one but could by Tuesday. Great we were leaving Sunday.
I finally tried an off brand parts store and they could have one by 7am Saturday morning. Awesome I buy it and a piece of new 3/8 inch hose to replace the questionable dry looking hose from the valve to the intake.
I get everything on and all is well or so I thought.
We get headed home and all the sudden the new valve starts sounding like a saxaphone when the PCM commanded the purge valve to come on. To make it home in peace and quite after trying a few things, I unplugged and capped the tiny 1/8 inch vacuum line going to the new purge valve.
I finally got good tests on the old and new valve today. I had to apply power to the valve and keep pumping my hand held vacuum tester to keep enough vacuum up for the valve to open and let me blow or suck through it.
I'm gonna see if I can get a refund on the noisy wind instrument sounding valve.
@@RC-Heli835 so were u able to determine the issue is this valve? the egr system is such a pain. but reading up a p1450 is excessive vacuum so that's seems like a stuck valvl instead of a leak as its implying the pcm cant regulate the vacuum. I wonder if your fuel cap is hard to get off during this lol.
when you apply voltage to the coil it creates a magnetic force forcing the metal cap to move from closed to open. This allows the engine vacuum flow which removes vapors from the EVAP canister
yeah except I think I show in this video the reason this was failing is the diode at the coil was bad causing a short across it
Thanks for being here.
thanks for watching. or trying to LOL... man this is a long video LOL...
Did you make a video getting the old one out? I can't get the hose off going to the canister.
no The leak was at the gas fill tube not canister
Great trial, error and instructional video. Funny commentary text as well. Stay safe! 🤘🏻🌎
lol. wow I thought I never uploaded this video. because I still have it in pieces on that chair LOL. I have tons of diodes to put in it but got bored with it all. rewatching it now. wow what a dummy I am LOL....the spring is most likely between the coil and metal plate. magnetize pulls in plate spring pushes it away after its demagnetized. still no clue what that screw is for into the plastic.
or maybe spring does go under it lol.
hello,do you know even how ro open valve METZGER?it s sealed in the back,opposite to the valve...thank to share your exeperiences,mauro
is that something on this?? I'll have to look. I still have this sitting apart on chair. lol
@@bobspurloc ok,o opened it by cutting a screw in a triangular shape,it was stucked.i cleaned with air and i streched a bit the springs.now i m checking the vacuum circuit:becas
use the engine works right on fuel,but it doesn't in lpg.....thanks for the answear
The diode can't be checked unless you unsolder from the coil otherwise it will read the coil and appear to be shorted. The diode's only purpose is to clamp the kick back voltage when the coil's field collapses when power is removed. Using it like this, the anode would be the negative side and cathode would be on the positive. If you applied positive 12 volts to the anode, then you probably blew the diode. (The cathode is the end with the stripe)
yeah I said that and did that... as for blowing the diode I think I showed it can handle 100+ volts reverse as tends to be the case for all diodes they dont fry easy spec of GP10G diode "Vr - Reverse Voltage: 400 V" so yeah 12volts doesnt have a remote chance to fry any diode unless its faulty...
My ford 2004 explorer does a evap code GUESSING its this part and not the evap canister thats 3 x more expensive. Right? Maybe.....
Well for evap issues its best to do a smoke test, then you can find leaks and not replace random parts. I believe I finally found my evap issue on this car and it was the gas fill tube rusting out. th-cam.com/video/m0aFMslGf60/w-d-xo.html
Is this same as 2006 CV?
u can check rockauto to see if it's the same part number. I'm not sure what would have changed though. the only difference I believe between 2003 and 2006 is 2006 is drive by wire
Those suckers aren't cheap. Did you have any gas smell before you removed it ? I have an '02 Taurus, and I have a gas smell whenever I drive it. No check engine light or trouble code. It runs fine and starts right up. I'm getting bad gas mileage. Gas is escaping from somewhere. I tracked it down with an electronic gas detector to the rear of the car. The engine area has no gas leaks according to the detector and my nose.
so where in the rear? a crown vic and a taurus have absolutely nothing in common engine wise. I have several videos on the taurus that engine setup is a nightmare. all the orings and seals 100% will fail by 80k. but that isnt what your experiencing. you should do a smoke test. although I bet you are going to be sadly annoyed from the results of a smoke test on the taurus LOL... th-cam.com/video/4iKolZ4wDjk/w-d-xo.html funny though, on the crown vic I had the fill tube rust out I repaired it with jb weld. th-cam.com/video/m0aFMslGf60/w-d-xo.html do u not have any codes???
@@bobspurloc No codes the last time I checked. I'll check it again tomorrow.
@@bobspurloc I'll check out a video on how to make my own smoker, and see what it finds.
I have a smoke maker vid too lol th-cam.com/video/IaIHSSRaGqw/w-d-xo.html
check the video I linked above for the gas fill pipe. but if you have that kind of hole you should have a code, or a pending code or a gas cap warning. not having any sort of vapor leak codes/pending codes though could mean a Fuel line is leaking or the gas tank has a hole in it or fuel filter hole
Guess other part is a fuel tank valve
Dude u just wasted over an hour of my night because the title of your video said fix it yourself! Just pulled mine apart by your instructions and there is nothing wrong with mine. Please don't post of video of your constantly making mistakes, also spend more then $10 on a good meter before you waste yours or anybody elses time!
"I totally take this apart so you can see how to fix it properly instead of filling with fluids and praying..." this is what I stated so u can see how it works and how spraying fluids into it does nothing. I mistakes on purpose and some not so the viewer knows what to avoid, this is what I do and will continue to do. if I needed a better meter I would buy one but I understand what the meter is doing and what I expect to see it do, so I dont "require" such things.
Diaode is bad