Thank you so much for doing this video!!! The dealer wanted over $400 to replace this part and I was able to do it in 20 minutes for $26 all because of you!!
I just wanted to say thank you. I was getting all sorts of weird codes (o2 sensor stuck lean, evap leaks, etc) on a 2010 Fusion and we couldn't get the car to pass emissions. I used your troubleshooting methods in this video and found that the valve was in fact stuck open. I ordered a new valve from amazon, replaced the part, reset all systems (unplugged battery for ten minutes), and drove the car around until the evap test was performed. It's been over 400 miles now and I haven't seen the code come back. Best part - the car has passed emissions! Your videos saved me a trip to the dealership and about $600. Thanks!!!
Dude, thank you so much. I already paid 2 local mechanics to try and figure this out for me, and they were stumped. Told me it was probably my capless gas intake, and Ford would have to replace it for me ($$$$$$$). Found your vid, tested my old one with my finger and it was totally busted. Bought the part for $25 and fixed it myself. Thank you!!
So I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but I am pretty frustrated about constantly getting ripped off by dealers for small issues like this. Not that i would have known it was a small issue until I watched your video. So I do not know how to change my oil or even my tire, but your video was very clear that I was about to replace this in my 2010 Ford Escape and it works great again. So thank you very much, you did a fantastic job!
I know the feeling. When we bought our 2009 Merc.Mariner we constantly got the P0144a trouble code and after 5 trips back to the dealer and some $1500+ later... a friend "fixed" the problem.... replace part. DONE!
I so appreciate you 👍 our Ford dealer told my wife yesterday 12/7/24 that it was going to be 600.00 to fix the purge valve. It's a good thing I wasn't there and I may still give them a piece of my mind.
Thanks for posting this. My F-150 died the other day and I found this video ( I have followed you for a long time). I brought it into the dealer and they found a P0456 code with this valve failing to open up on command. They replaced the valve and now I notice it idle's much smoother now. I really appreciate these videos.
Another testimonial. 2013 F150 XLT. Started with vacuum relieving when adding fuel at or below a quarter of a tank. Fuel gauge was dropping from quarter of a tank to empty randomly then resetting after restart. 40 bucks and problem solved! Also fully aware that I was pulling a vacuum on my gas tank and could have imploded it. This helped with more than a nuisance issue. My vehicle is safe again! Thank you
Thank you! Because of your post I was able to troubleshoot and repair this exact problem. I went to the local O'Reilly's and they found the engine code was P0455. A quick browse thru a forum led me to suspect this valve, but then I used your super simple troubleshooting tip and was able to definitively diagnose the problem and replace the valve. $47 including tax and a couple of enjoyable hours (I made my daughter do the work and ask for the part at O'Reilly's). Thank's again.
Thank you very much for posting this video. I have googled and googled and watched many videos but finally came across yours today and I finally found where my purge valve is located. All videos I came across before for my 2011 Ford Escape 24 valve 3.0 V6 always had the valve in the wrong place. Thanks to your video I was able to find it by just looking all over the engine to finally locate it. I unplugged the wire and hose and tested the way you showed and my finger gets sucked in. Now I don't have to pay a bunch of money to a shop to run a check on my EVAP system.
Thanks for this video. It helped me diagnose and fix my brothers 2009 F150 4.6l. It was giving P1450, P0130 and P0150 codes, and stalling while braking, and semi-rough idle. Runs like a champ now!
2010 Fusion 2.5L Had a P1295 code going on a short day trip and notice my mileage was going down going down on the ride back home with the check engine light on. Ran the code and looked it up on the internet and found this. Did the check and of course its stuck open. Thanks for the info. a lot cheaper to do it myself versus paying a shop or dealer that would just start throwing parts at it at untold amounts of money.
I realize this is an old video, but thank you very much for making it! I Googled what my 2012 Mustang was doing and came across your video. Went out to the car, pulled the connector & line off, started the car, and sure enough, it was sucking my finger in. Replaced the valve and filled up and the Mustang started with no hesitation. Like others have mentioned, it idles better now and seems more responsive to throttle input after a fill up. Thanks again!
My 2014 F150 just popped this code. I've noticed my MPG has been declining, this looks like it is likely my issue. Thank you so much for making this video (10 years ago, lol)!
THANK YOU!!! I have a 2012 Ford Explorer. Lately, was having issues starting my car after I would fill up with gas. Took it local mechanic, they ran diagnostics: P2196 & P2198. However, they had no clue how to fix it... and charged me to replace my spark plugs instead. :( Needless to say, problem still occurred and check engine light would still appear. I was hesitant to take it back to them. Thus, googled this issue and THANK GOD I stumbled upon your video! Went to local autozone and bought purge valve for $29.99... replaced it myself (w/ help from your video) and just like that... PROBLEM SOLVED!!! :)
Old thread but our 2012 seems to be doing the same things as you describe. We've been practicing thinking o2 sensors or plugs/wires but we're crossing our fingers that your solution works. Thanks for sharing your issues and resolve or I would still be searching.
Great information, I was extremely frustrated in the beginning when my daughters escape was having all of these problems. This video saved me a lot of stress, what a easy fix. I cannot thank you enough, you have saved me a ton of time and money! Thank you!!!!!! Now I have to figure out the steering problems, what a nightmare!
What steering problems? Don't tell me it sometimes gets difficult to steer? Or when you start it the power steering doesn't work and you can't turn the wheel without muscling it? Why do I ask? Because it happened to my 2013 Ford Explorer XLT V6. Sometimes it would not let turn the steering wheel when I would start the car. So, I would turn it off and restart. Then it would work. But, little by little restarting became a requirement. Eventually, it stopped working altogether. The rack and pinion electric assist quit working!!! Well, believe it or not, you still can drive the vehicle but you will be having to use muscle to turn the wheel because all the friction from the tires. I drove it like that for a month calling different dealers to replace the steering system. Eventually I found a dealer to do this for $2,000 with warranty on the rack and pinion. It's been working fine ever since. Unfortunately, my particular model and year is not covered under the recall. Ford has a recall for this problem. Look it up on their website. They will replace it for free IF your VIN is included in the recall. Good luck!
I have a 2013 Ford F150 5.0 with a returning p0451 and this video along with a previous one you made regarding the cap-less fuel system helped me off to a good start with troubleshooting the problem rather then throwing parts at it. I for one appreciate you sharing your knowledge and time in everything you post, even if its not related to my model of vehicle, I still find them to be very informative and entertaining, keep up the GREAT work!
I haven’t gotten to the ftp sensor yet someone told me you can just drop the spare tire to get to it, but I’m pretty sure you gotta drop the drive shaft then the tank? Just going to trouble shoot with volt meter hopefully just a frayed or cut wire somewhere. You gotta buy the whole tube fuel line bc it’s inline of the hoses on mine. 2010 f-150 4.6l XL
It was not@@shadad07 Here is what I have completed with no change: Ford OEM replacement for Purge Solenoid and connecting orifice tube Cleaned out my capless fuel cover Purchased a code scanner to clear codes Looked to see if tank is encaved Unfortunately I have the light come on every now and again, I believe it is just a short or sensor under the bed and may have to pull the bed off or something. TBH it has not been a priority as I am WFH and haven't needed to get inspection cause I hardly use the vehicle. Saying that, I still want it fixed so will update this post if I find a solution, I will be working on my truck this weekend doing other stuff and may just knock that out as well.
Thanks for this great video! A comment in another video tipped me off that my P0455 code problem might be the purge valve. I followed your instructions and was able to change it for under $30, which seems to have fixed the problem. Your video gave me the confidence I needed to try the purge valve replacement, which was very simple. Just needed to know it was likely to be the solution.
Another thank you! My 2015 Explorer had the 1450 code and did the check and that was it. Other people had you blowing in it with your mouth, no thank you. 30 minute job from opening the hope getting the part, installing it and closing the hood. Cheap part which is a good and not good thing. Besides this issue, 71k miles and no issues. Thank you again!
Thanks so much. This info resolved my issue. Everything you stated was happening to my 2010 Escape. I'd fill up the tank at the station and my Escape didn't want to start. It would occasionally stall out while idling or worst, it would shut off in a sharp turn or when I was coasting into a stop. The car would give off fumes every now and then as well. Once this problem occurs, one is better off replacing the canister as well. I know its expensive ($200-$250), but mine was saturated with gas from the faulty valve. Ford should implement an immediate recall for this part because it is clearly defective and poses a danger to the public.
Just had this issue on my 2013 ford raptor at 170k miles. 30$ part and 10 min install now doesnt idle rough or stall out as if it was out of gas like it did before the replacement. Glad this was the solution and not some expensive dealership fix.
My 2016 Transit had problems starting (only after fueling). Saw your video and replaced the purge valve. Instant fix. You saved me $$$ and 2 days being out of work! Thank you for the video!!!
Thank you so much for warning us about all of these issues. I'm about to replace this purge valve for someone and they'll definitely appreciate an explanation about why the original part stopped working.
I had 2196 and 2198 on my 5.0 f150. Cleaned up purge valve with we 40 and some compressed air. It’s working great. So far. Codes gone fuel trims and o2s normal
Update: I figured it out. The ground wire from pcm to vent solenoid was no good. As soon as I ran a wire and tried it it worked and the cel light went out with no codes anymore. Can't believe the ford dealership certified techs couldn't figure it out. I may go back and demand a refund. I'm no mechanic and I figured it out. Perhaps a TH-cam video about the fuel evap system in its entirety and the most common faults for it would be huge help to folks. Thanks.
Awsome job ! You can search net for hours before you find a true tech, and every now and then you find one !! No Smoke screen here ! Simple and to point ! Just a great job! Thanks for info ,This old Ford wrench learned and will follow your videos !
I replace my purge valve, which was super easy even for someone with no mechanic experience! Though this did not fix all my issues my vehicle has so much more power after this replacement.
I love this channel! I'm amazed this channel doesn't have more subscribers from all Ford owners. Thank you for continuing to product valuable content for us Ford owners.
The best video yet cuz I changed my purge valve on my 2013 Ford Fusion 3 years ago but I put on a hundred thousand miles since then and I'm having the same issue so I'm just going to go ahead and replace that I also did replace my charcoal canister about a year ago so I know that's not the issue but thank you so much man very informative
2009 Ford Escape- Evap code, check engine light on, car would stall while starting after filling up gas tank and car would spitter and sputter at idle when 1/4 tank of gas was left..... $25, changed out this part and fixed the problem!
Hey man just wanted to thank you, my check engine light on my 2012 Ford Escape came on the other day so I took it to Autozone. They read the code p144a but couldn't tell me what it was so I googled it and saw that this piece was most likely the issue. I found your video on how to fix this and even the link to Amazon to buy the part. I got it today, I took out the old one blew into the top and air was coming through tested the new one and no air came through. From start to finish about 20 mins and I'm not one to normally work on cars. Great video thanks again!
jcrob92f I got a ford escape 2012 as well. Can you tell me where is the purge valve situated on our SUV ? Check engine light and same code (p144a) for me :( I want to replace it but can't find it. Thank you !
Joey Sévigny if you go to 3:08 in the video he shows where it is in a 2009 escape, its in the same spot on the 2012. Look between the front of the engine and the fan on yours and you should be able to see it. I hope this helps.
I replaced my wife's 2010 Ford Fusion that was setting evap code. My niece just bought a 2014 Ford Fiesta with an evap code and a stalling issue after filling up tank...i think its same faulty part. It looks different, more in line, doesn't bolt to intake. Great video!
@@trefettient.6819 It's been awhile. I recall it was setting fault code but no running or stalling issues. We addressed the fault code as soon as it set. Possibly could have had running issues if we ignored it and kept driving it.
@@tuneuptony3679 ok wow thanks for reply im asking cuz my car is same make and model fusion and it keeps not accelerating even when I hit the gas turns out there was a recall on the valve hopefully that fixes the problem
Thanks for the great info. My 2011 F-250 threw two lean codes. Last week while heading to Florida, I stopped for gas and had a very hard time starting afterwards. Happened for the entire trip. Cleaned the mass air flow sensor and they went away but the P1450 showed up. Just now checked the purge valve as you recommended and, sure enough, sucking a vacuum. Will replace tomorrow and reset code. Thanks!!!!
2013 ford taurus. P2196 and small leak. Will do the test today to see if it’s the purge valve. Will let you know. Thanks for the video and great channel!!
I had just had work done on the truck for some injector codes just last week. Mechanic charged me $475 to replace it, hand cleaned the other injectors (not pressure cleaned, as he said that does more bad than good), and replaced all of the spark plugs. Fair price with a 4 month warranty on the work. I noticed I was burning through gas rather quickly soon after. I always monitor my gas mileage and just couldn't believe how fast I was burning fuel. I knew something was wrong. When the engine light came on again today (exactly one week after the injector repairs), I hoped it wasn't something new and that I could just take it back to the mechanic to check it out. Turns out it was this P0455 code. I did research and stumbled onto this video. I replaced the valve and reset the engine code. It's gone now, so I hope it stays gone and that my fuel mileage returns to normal This repair took me a whopping 10 minutes to do. thank you FordTechMakuloco!
Hi Brian, amazing channel and a treasure trove of information. My '09 Sport Trac 4x2 4.0 SOHC (April 09) has the old evap purge valve. No matter, it failed at about 185000 miles. Easy replacement of course. So i am guessing some of the earlier 09s may have the older style valve anyway? Perhaps it doesn't matter since there are not too many of those left. Keep up the good work!
Another great video. Thanks for all you do. My wife's 2012 Escape Limited Hybrid had Code P0442. Followed procedure to clean and lubricate the gas cap. O.k. for a bit. Then, threw Code P0456. Purchased and replaced vapor canister purge valve. Thanks!
At exactly 3:10 you show the 2 vacuum hoses next to the purge valve, does the one in the top left move around freely in the intake or is it supposed to be fixed and not freely move. Trying to trace down a vacuum leak on my 09 2.5 limited and that part where that hose connects is able to freely spin back and forth inside (hose is not loose the actual piece that the hose connects to moves around)
Thank you for this video and the very clear explanation. That saved me a lot of worry and a trip to the dealer for repairs. Worth your help I changed the valve and could then verify the repairs with an OBDII scanner. Much appreciated!
Hey brother,,, can a bad purge valve on 2.5 duratec 2010 Ford Escape cause a crank no start? Or should I look more at the PVC valve? I can't seem to get my truck to start at all . I put some gas in from a dirty gas can and it hasn't fired since..again Crank no start. Please help me out bro!
Mine is doing the same thing it starts and drives but it randomly shut down because of the old fuel I had im there. Im starting to put premium in hopes of cleaning the fuel injectors. Did you end up finding your problem?
Thank you very much for the great video. This solved my problem and saved a big headache with my 2013 Explorer. Your video efforts are much appreciated!
i was able to fix the purge valve last year. A year later i am popping p0455, check engine light on. i will order another one considering they are cheap and easy to fix. 115k miles 2010 ford escape.
I hit a bump and the check engine light came on. Most of what I read said check evap. So tmrw morning I'm getting up early and going to check this as you did, before work. I have a ODBII reader coming from Amazon tomorrow so im going to get to the bottom of this one way or the other. 2012 escape seemed to drive home normal after the bump, no change in how it ran.
awesome simple test thanks. The problem I am having with our 2010 3.0L escape is it wont take fuel at the pump. I have figured out how to manually evap the tank with the ford provided funnel in the cubby. What do I need to do to fix this?
Hi Brian. this is happening to me again. Replaced cpv beginning of last year after finding your channel and watching your other video on this issue. In the fall, check engine light came on. Went to auto zone and had them read code. They said it was a P0455 but that it was OK to drive. Gas cap light has been coming off and on too (capless tank, Ford 09, 4 cylinder, escape ). This past week I've noticed some hesitation and minor tremor, usually when coming to a stop or low speed like when turning corner. Last weekend my dad said that he smelled some high fumes when I started it. I've been driving this past week with my windows down and noticed the gasoline-ish type smell as well. Well, from nightmare of when this first happened last year as I was exiting the turnpike in rush hour traffic and it stalled out, which resulted in the initial replacement, I'm not taking any chances! Ordered another part off of Amazon tonight! Is this normal for it to fail in so short a time? I ordered the genuine Ford part when I replaced it last year too. Thanks for all that you do to help us out here my friend. You are a blessed man!
Thanks for the video, ive noticed on my Ranger the smell of gas after i drive it, but i can detect no leaks or drips, a friend suggested it might be the purge valve. Do you have any suggestions?
Nice video as always!! Do you know what else it could be that throws the same p1450 because I tested my purge valve like you did and unplugged it will not pull vacuum or leak. 2016 explorer
Hey once again thanks for all your videos My 98 Grand Marquis PCV valve I think it's fine but the part number is EV-98B and I can't find one anywhere they discontinued them do you have any recommendations on an aftermarket one or a different motorcraft part number one?
What a great video so my question would be p2198 and p1450 if they're both showing an evap purge solenoid valve and an O2 sensor, My problem is that after I don't use my vehicle for a day it will just crank but will not fire Will this fix that issue??
Great video. Very informative. I skimmed the comments first. But I have a 2013 Ford F150 V6. My check engine light came on and ran the code to get a P0451. Already replaced the Canister Purge Valve like 6mo ago and when I went to feel for vacuum. There was no suction to my finger. So I think the canister purge valve is still good. What would I want to check next? Thanks for your time!
I get a P0456 on an 04 Lincoln Town Car. Have been told most likely the gas cap leaking vacuum. What part on the gas cap leaks? It looks to be all plastic and rubber. Thanks for doing your videos. All very helpful. I have a smoke machine but not sure how to close off the two valves in the emission system.
I have a 2012 Explorer 3.5L that threw both banks rich over the weekend when the cold snap hit the DFW area. The light went away on Monday. Just replaced the valve, and the engine even SOUNDS like it's running better. When I pulled it off, it reeked of raw fuel.
I never make comments nit picking peoples videos because I appreciate the information...buuuut a little dab of oil or any kinda lube on that o ring going in couldn't hurt.
Have a customer coming in for a P144a cel and the first thing I thought was the purge valve. Super common on Fords with this style valve. Have you noticed a lot of canister failures associated with purge valve failures? There's a TSB for emission CELs and the two tests are checking the canisters for fuel inside of them, then there's the purge testing? But I would think a faulty purge valve could pull the fuel inside of the canister thus making the testing of the canister pointless. Not sure if raw fuel inside the canister will cause any damage to canister or would it just dry itself out after the necessary repairs are done.
What never fail fully opened? Purge valves? Just working on the vehicle now and the valve is definitely bad. Vacuum being pulled through it when it's disconnected.
I have an 09 mustang v6, and it’s been stalling on me, and I’ve been getting lean codes, I know you said the F-150 was stalling, but has there been issues with the mustang stalling due to these? I have to let it sit for a few minutes then start it back up, but it misfires and idles rough.
I have a question my purge valve sucks excessive air even when i remove the purge valve, it sucks air from that purge valve where you put the finger, but also from the hole where it connects from purge valve to engine, like you did in the minute 6:45 my question is that normal or ??
Hello there, thanx for the vid, I have a 2013 f150 3.7 v6 flex fuel, I've replaced the purge valve twice, and still have the p0455 code, so is that mean that booth of the valves are defective..?
Thank you for your vids. I don’t see the list of codes, but my 2010 f-150 5.4l gives me bank 1 and bank 2 sensor 1 codes. P0130/P0150. Truck runs rough under load and I’m getting a strong odor from passenger front wheel well. Could this be the cause or should I replace both upstream O2 sensors? Could it be clogged cats making the smell or is it a symptom of what you described in the video or the 02 sensors themselves? Thanks for any help!
I had bought a 13 F150 with the 5.0 and its had a rough since day one with no codes. The dealership claimed it was normal for the 5.0 to idle a little rough. It almost feels like the truck has a slight misfire though. A small repair shop did hook up a computer recently and said the psi on all cylinders had a vast and erratic fluctuation. They mentioned it could be a bad pressure regulator fuel pump and said the trucks computer was trying to compensate for the loss. Any thoughts? The only symptom is rough idle - idk about fuel economy or accleration issues because it's been like this since I bought it. *Temp doesn't seem to matter for the issue to be present.
Awesome video. I saw the other one you made like this. I have a 2011 Escape V6 with the P0456 code. With the engine running and electrical connector unplugged, I still feel suction so it's stuck open I'm thinking.
Just had one go bad with P1450. passed this test at first (maybe I didn't wait long enough for it to build up). Plugged in electrical and unplugged it with the engine running and the valve stayed open.
Hello, I have replaced this valve but still get the p0456 code and the "check filler cap" but my Escape has the capless filler system which I've cleaned as per one of your other videos. Does my capless fuel system need to be replaced or serviced? Thanks!
I tested my purge valve like you said in the video, but could not feel any kind of vacuum. I even let pressure build up and still felt nothing. My car has not been running rough. The Check Engine light just turned on yesterday when I started my car. I'm getting error code P0456. Any other possibilities it could be? I have a 2013 Ford Edge 3.5L
+Brad Chilva Change the valve and reset the pcm and see if the light comes back on the part is so cheap and easy to replace. Reason being is they can stick open intermittently causing the p0457 and or more commonly p0456
Sir, I have a 2008 mercury mariner that has 27k miles but obviously out of warranty. Fails emission inspection test for 2 codes of same number PO446. I have pulled the vent solenoid and put 12v to it and the plunger actuates. All hoses and connections look beautiful. I read to check voltage for vent solenoid and when I do I get 12.2 volts with no key in ignition as long as I have a REALLY good ground other wise I get off readings that jump around. With key on I get 11.8v again only if I have a really good ground by pushing my meter black end really hard into good metal of vehicle. I didn't think there should be voltage unless the key was on but there is. Anyways I'm trying to figure out what my issue is so I can resolve it. Took it to a ford dealer and they spent 2hrs with no answer and billed 230 bucks. I wasn't going to let them go on for hours and hours with no diagnosis in sight. I wanted to follow the wiring back to the pcm but it goes up into the vehicle probably under the interior carpet. Do u have any thoughts or suggestions for this. I was going to check the purge valve next and maybe to look at the pcm to see if I can find the wire at that point but unsure what to look for or how to test it. If I reset the code with a scan tool one code comes back immediately but the check engine light stays out as long as I leave it running. As soon as I turn it off and restart the cel comes right back on. Could the pcm be bad? Could the wiring be compromised? Could the vent solenoid be bad even though it work fine when I direct apply 12v? This has been a huge pain in the butt.
Jitom7 I have seen these have corrosion under the wire insulation at the connector that connects to the vent solenoid itself, I would peel it back and check for corrosion. It is very simple to test idk why some ford dealers are like this. All you have to do is put a noid light on it and do a pcm self test and they would know right away.
I have a 2010 Fusion Sport (3.5 Liter V-6). I am not finding much in regards to replacing the EVAP canister purge valve. I did find some information indicating that the valve requires removal of the "lower cowl panel grille." Where is this panel? Do you have any information or even pics of where the purge valve is located on the 2010 Fusion Sport? Thanks!
When you have to hold your finger there to let it build up vacuum, does it still need to be changed? That's what my '11 Escape does, plus I had a P144a code.
FordTechMakuloco - We have codes P0456 (twice) and P1450 (once) showing on our Ford Escape 2009. Your video is very helpful and it seems like a quick easy fix, but just to be sure where exactly is this part located on the vehicle? I have not attempted to search for it yet. Sorry in advance if this should be obvious.
+FordTechMakuloco Thank you for all your help and information, we were able to fix the problem with just that small piece and it was simple. Will be visiting in the future for any other problems that arise! Thanks!
I have a 2005 Mercury Mariner with a po443 code. I checked the power at the purge valve (Valve is OK, did direct power test and it clicks and opens and passes air). At the harness plug I'm not getting a constant +12v but a -12v. The -12v, I assume comes from the ECM to open and close the purge valve. The vent valve has a fuse #27 in the consul side which is OK. Where does the +12v power from the purge valve come from. Is there is no fuse for it like the vent valve. I bought a rebuilt ECM and it's doing the same thing. Does the constant +12v come from the ECM. I was told by the company that it does. is that correct?
I have a 2010 2.5 ford fusion, and I'm in between shops right now, no good scan tool available for me to use yet. P1450 and p0451. I checked canister purge with engine running (never been replaced) and it is not sucking on finger. Fuel mileage has decreased so I was thinking this. My tank pressure reading is -.91kpa which I think is out of spec. Maybe I will put my vacuum gauge on it to make sure canister purge is indeed ok. Have you replaced pressure sensor for this also. Voltage to both sensors is good?? Other thoughts??
I cleaned the fuel filler that way you show and I checked for vacuum on the Purge valve and I don't have suction but my engine still keeps throwing Po456. I even put a stant locking fill cap on it. Anything else that can be causing p0456?
I think I need to change my name on my truck because after filling up with gas it have a hard stall but I don't have no check engine light on... What do u think
I have 04 ranger with the first valve you had shown. The hose that connects to the top of the engine is dry rotted bad. Would that cause rough idle issue when starting up?
I have a 2017 lariat sport eco boost and it has intermittent rough hesitation when driving and taking off I just had a code p1450 and am wondering if you have any idea if it is this purge valve
Thank you so much for doing this video!!! The dealer wanted over $400 to replace this part and I was able to do it in 20 minutes for $26 all because of you!!
$400.00😬OMG
basterds
How many times have you changed it . I changed it once three Months ago and now it's making a sound like broken
@@pedroandrade970 luckily I only had to replace it once. It was replaced once before I owned the car that I know of.
😮 dealership wanted over $400 for that. To me that's no different than theft and I hate thieves.
I just wanted to say thank you. I was getting all sorts of weird codes (o2 sensor stuck lean, evap leaks, etc) on a 2010 Fusion and we couldn't get the car to pass emissions. I used your troubleshooting methods in this video and found that the valve was in fact stuck open. I ordered a new valve from amazon, replaced the part, reset all systems (unplugged battery for ten minutes), and drove the car around until the evap test was performed. It's been over 400 miles now and I haven't seen the code come back. Best part - the car has passed emissions! Your videos saved me a trip to the dealership and about $600. Thanks!!!
Rob Lewis Nice!
I appreciate this guy. You can hear he talks with confidence. He knows what he’s talking about
Dude, thank you so much. I already paid 2 local mechanics to try and figure this out for me, and they were stumped. Told me it was probably my capless gas intake, and Ford would have to replace it for me ($$$$$$$). Found your vid, tested my old one with my finger and it was totally busted. Bought the part for $25 and fixed it myself. Thank you!!
So I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but I am pretty frustrated about constantly getting ripped off by dealers for small issues like this. Not that i would have known it was a small issue until I watched your video. So I do not know how to change my oil or even my tire, but your video was very clear that I was about to replace this in my 2010 Ford Escape and it works great again. So thank you very much, you did a fantastic job!
I know the feeling. When we bought our 2009 Merc.Mariner we constantly got the P0144a trouble code and after 5 trips back to the dealer and some $1500+ later... a friend "fixed" the problem.... replace part. DONE!
I so appreciate you 👍 our Ford dealer told my wife yesterday 12/7/24 that it was going to be 600.00 to fix the purge valve. It's a good thing I wasn't there and I may still give them a piece of my mind.
Thanks for posting this. My F-150 died the other day and I found this video ( I have followed you for a long time). I brought it into the dealer and they found a P0456 code with this valve failing to open up on command. They replaced the valve and now I notice it idle's much smoother now. I really appreciate these videos.
rockthetechguy i
Another testimonial. 2013 F150 XLT. Started with vacuum relieving when adding fuel at or below a quarter of a tank. Fuel gauge was dropping from quarter of a tank to empty randomly then resetting after restart. 40 bucks and problem solved! Also fully aware that I was pulling a vacuum on my gas tank and could have imploded it. This helped with more than a nuisance issue. My vehicle is safe again! Thank you
Thank you! Because of your post I was able to troubleshoot and repair this exact problem. I went to the local O'Reilly's and they found the engine code was P0455. A quick browse thru a forum led me to suspect this valve, but then I used your super simple troubleshooting tip and was able to definitively diagnose the problem and replace the valve. $47 including tax and a couple of enjoyable hours (I made my daughter do the work and ask for the part at O'Reilly's). Thank's again.
Thank you very much for posting this video. I have googled and googled and watched many videos but finally came across yours today and I finally found where my purge valve is located. All videos I came across before for my 2011 Ford Escape 24 valve 3.0 V6 always had the valve in the wrong place. Thanks to your video I was able to find it by just looking all over the engine to finally locate it. I unplugged the wire and hose and tested the way you showed and my finger gets sucked in. Now I don't have to pay a bunch of money to a shop to run a check on my EVAP system.
Thanks for this video. It helped me diagnose and fix my brothers 2009 F150 4.6l. It was giving P1450, P0130 and P0150 codes, and stalling while braking, and semi-rough idle. Runs like a champ now!
2010 Fusion 2.5L Had a P1295 code going on a short day trip and notice my mileage was going down going down on the ride back home with the check engine light on. Ran the code and looked it up on the internet and found this. Did the check and of course its stuck open. Thanks for the info. a lot cheaper to do it myself versus paying a shop or dealer that would just start throwing parts at it at untold amounts of money.
I realize this is an old video, but thank you very much for making it! I Googled what my 2012 Mustang was doing and came across your video. Went out to the car, pulled the connector & line off, started the car, and sure enough, it was sucking my finger in. Replaced the valve and filled up and the Mustang started with no hesitation. Like others have mentioned, it idles better now and seems more responsive to throttle input after a fill up. Thanks again!
This guy has saved me thousands. Thank you so much for what you post.
My 2014 F150 just popped this code. I've noticed my MPG has been declining, this looks like it is likely my issue. Thank you so much for making this video (10 years ago, lol)!
THANK YOU!!! I have a 2012 Ford Explorer. Lately, was having issues starting my car after I would fill up with gas. Took it local mechanic, they ran diagnostics: P2196 & P2198. However, they had no clue how to fix it... and charged me to replace my spark plugs instead. :( Needless to say, problem still occurred and check engine light would still appear. I was hesitant to take it back to them. Thus, googled this issue and THANK GOD I stumbled upon your video! Went to local autozone and bought purge valve for $29.99... replaced it myself (w/ help from your video) and just like that... PROBLEM SOLVED!!! :)
Old thread but our 2012 seems to be doing the same things as you describe. We've been practicing thinking o2 sensors or plugs/wires but we're crossing our fingers that your solution works. Thanks for sharing your issues and resolve or I would still be searching.
Took less than a week to get it from Amazon (CA$40). 5 min to replace it. 2 min to clear the code. Thanks for the video.
Great information, I was extremely frustrated in the beginning when my daughters escape was having all of these problems. This video saved me a lot of stress, what a easy fix. I cannot thank you enough, you have saved me a ton of time and money! Thank you!!!!!! Now I have to figure out the steering problems, what a nightmare!
What steering problems? Don't tell me it sometimes gets difficult to steer? Or when you start it the power steering doesn't work and you can't turn the wheel without muscling it? Why do I ask? Because it happened to my 2013 Ford Explorer XLT V6. Sometimes it would not let turn the steering wheel when I would start the car. So, I would turn it off and restart. Then it would work. But, little by little restarting became a requirement. Eventually, it stopped working altogether. The rack and pinion electric assist quit working!!! Well, believe it or not, you still can drive the vehicle but you will be having to use muscle to turn the wheel because all the friction from the tires. I drove it like that for a month calling different dealers to replace the steering system. Eventually I found a dealer to do this for $2,000 with warranty on the rack and pinion. It's been working fine ever since. Unfortunately, my particular model and year is not covered under the recall. Ford has a recall for this problem. Look it up on their website. They will replace it for free IF your VIN is included in the recall. Good luck!
I just did this ,40 dollars on parts and a 5/16 socket ,10 minutes and done ,Thank you soo much
I have a 2013 Ford F150 5.0 with a returning p0451 and this video along with a previous one you made regarding the cap-less fuel system helped me off to a good start with troubleshooting the problem rather then throwing parts at it. I for one appreciate you sharing your knowledge and time in everything you post, even if its not related to my model of vehicle, I still find them to be very informative and entertaining, keep up the GREAT work!
so was the Purge Valve the cause of the issue for P0451 for your case? i have already changed the pressure sensor and the door cap
Bump have the same problem ☝️
I haven’t gotten to the ftp sensor yet someone told me you can just drop the spare tire to get to it, but I’m pretty sure you gotta drop the drive shaft then the tank? Just going to trouble shoot with volt meter hopefully just a frayed or cut wire somewhere. You gotta buy the whole tube fuel line bc it’s inline of the hoses on mine. 2010 f-150 4.6l XL
It was not@@shadad07
Here is what I have completed with no change:
Ford OEM replacement for Purge Solenoid and connecting orifice tube
Cleaned out my capless fuel cover
Purchased a code scanner to clear codes
Looked to see if tank is encaved
Unfortunately I have the light come on every now and again, I believe it is just a short or sensor under the bed and may have to pull the bed off or something. TBH it has not been a priority as I am WFH and haven't needed to get inspection cause I hardly use the vehicle. Saying that, I still want it fixed so will update this post if I find a solution, I will be working on my truck this weekend doing other stuff and may just knock that out as well.
Thanks for this great video! A comment in another video tipped me off that my P0455 code problem might be the purge valve. I followed your instructions and was able to change it for under $30, which seems to have fixed the problem. Your video gave me the confidence I needed to try the purge valve replacement, which was very simple. Just needed to know it was likely to be the solution.
Another thank you! My 2015 Explorer had the 1450 code and did the check and that was it. Other people had you blowing in it with your mouth, no thank you. 30 minute job from opening the hope getting the part, installing it and closing the hood. Cheap part which is a good and not good thing. Besides this issue, 71k miles and no issues. Thank you again!
Thanks so much. This info resolved my issue. Everything you stated was happening to my 2010 Escape. I'd fill up the tank at the station and my Escape didn't want to start. It would occasionally stall out while idling or worst, it would shut off in a sharp turn or when I was coasting into a stop. The car would give off fumes every now and then as well. Once this problem occurs, one is better off replacing the canister as well. I know its expensive ($200-$250), but mine was saturated with gas from the faulty valve. Ford should implement an immediate recall for this part because it is clearly defective and poses a danger to the public.
+Kenneth Bishop Some are bad enough to saturate the canister but most just need the valve. Glad you got it fixed!
P114C was my engine code. Exactly telling me the EVAP cannister valve was stuck open. Thanks for the video again!
Just had this issue on my 2013 ford raptor at 170k miles. 30$ part and 10 min install now doesnt idle rough or stall out as if it was out of gas like it did before the replacement. Glad this was the solution and not some expensive dealership fix.
My 2016 Transit had problems starting (only after fueling). Saw your video and replaced the purge valve. Instant fix. You saved me $$$ and 2 days being out of work! Thank you for the video!!!
That is the same problem I am having with my 2010 Ford Fusion. It only struggles to start after I get gas at the gas station.
Same here
Thank you so much for warning us about all of these issues. I'm about to replace this purge valve for someone and they'll definitely appreciate an explanation about why the original part stopped working.
I had 2196 and 2198 on my 5.0 f150. Cleaned up purge valve with we 40 and some compressed air. It’s working great. So far. Codes gone fuel trims and o2s normal
Update: I figured it out. The ground wire from pcm to vent solenoid was no good. As soon as I ran a wire and tried it it worked and the cel light went out with no codes anymore. Can't believe the ford dealership certified techs couldn't figure it out. I may go back and demand a refund. I'm no mechanic and I figured it out. Perhaps a TH-cam video about the fuel evap system in its entirety and the most common faults for it would be huge help to folks. Thanks.
Update to what? What issue caused you to find the bad ground?
Awsome job ! You can search net for hours before you find a true tech, and every now and then you find one !! No Smoke screen here ! Simple and to point ! Just a great job!
Thanks for info ,This old Ford wrench learned and will follow your videos !
Thanks!
+FordTechMakuloco my check engine light just turned on and gave me a code p144a on my 12 ford focus could this be the issue
Noe Garcia Yes it sure can!
I also noticed that my gas guage is acting werid as well is this due to the same code
yes
I replace my purge valve, which was super easy even for someone with no mechanic experience! Though this did not fix all my issues my vehicle has so much more power after this replacement.
I love this channel! I'm amazed this channel doesn't have more subscribers from all Ford owners. Thank you for continuing to product valuable content for us Ford owners.
Nice job showing how to confirm that the valve is actually bad.
Your advice has basically paid for my vacation! I've saved so much $$$. Thanks!!!
The best video yet cuz I changed my purge valve on my 2013 Ford Fusion 3 years ago but I put on a hundred thousand miles since then and I'm having the same issue so I'm just going to go ahead and replace that I also did replace my charcoal canister about a year ago so I know that's not the issue but thank you so much man very informative
2009 Ford Escape- Evap code, check engine light on, car would stall while starting after filling up gas tank and car would spitter and sputter at idle when 1/4 tank of gas was left..... $25, changed out this part and fixed the problem!
2016 eco boost escape isnt so easy unfortunately :(
Hey man just wanted to thank you, my check engine light on my 2012 Ford Escape came on the other day so I took it to Autozone. They read the code p144a but couldn't tell me what it was so I googled it and saw that this piece was most likely the issue. I found your video on how to fix this and even the link to Amazon to buy the part. I got it today, I took out the old one blew into the top and air was coming through tested the new one and no air came through. From start to finish about 20 mins and I'm not one to normally work on cars. Great video thanks again!
jcrob92f Awesome!!
jcrob92f I got a ford escape 2012 as well. Can you tell me where is the purge valve situated on our SUV ? Check engine light and same code (p144a) for me :( I want to replace it but can't find it. Thank you !
Joey Sévigny if you go to 3:08 in the video he shows where it is in a 2009 escape, its in the same spot on the 2012. Look between the front of the engine and the fan on yours and you should be able to see it. I hope this helps.
Joey Sévigny Were you able to find and fix it? If not I can try to take some photos for you of where I found mine.
I replaced my wife's 2010 Ford Fusion that was setting evap code. My niece just bought a 2014 Ford Fiesta with an evap code and a stalling issue after filling up tank...i think its same faulty part. It looks different, more in line, doesn't bolt to intake. Great video!
Tuneuptony I have a 2010 3.5 sport and can’t find the location. Any advice would help if ya could!
Was the 2010 ford fusion having problems before you replaced? Nd if so what problems?
@@trefettient.6819 It's been awhile. I recall it was setting fault code but no running or stalling issues. We addressed the fault code as soon as it set. Possibly could have had running issues if we ignored it and kept driving it.
@@tuneuptony3679 ok wow thanks for reply im asking cuz my car is same make and model fusion and it keeps not accelerating even when I hit the gas turns out there was a recall on the valve hopefully that fixes the problem
@@trefettient.6819 Awesome. Let me know if it fixes your issue.
Thanks for the great info. My 2011 F-250 threw two lean codes. Last week while heading to Florida, I stopped for gas and had a very hard time starting afterwards. Happened for the entire trip. Cleaned the mass air flow sensor and they went away but the P1450 showed up. Just now checked the purge valve as you recommended and, sure enough, sucking a vacuum. Will replace tomorrow and reset code. Thanks!!!!
Sweeet good find!
2013 ford taurus. P2196 and small leak. Will do the test today to see if it’s the purge valve. Will let you know. Thanks for the video and great channel!!
Thanks for the part number. Changed it out and truck has not stalled since.
I had just had work done on the truck for some injector codes just last week. Mechanic charged me $475 to replace it, hand cleaned the other injectors (not pressure cleaned, as he said that does more bad than good), and replaced all of the spark plugs. Fair price with a 4 month warranty on the work. I noticed I was burning through gas rather quickly soon after. I always monitor my gas mileage and just couldn't believe how fast I was burning fuel. I knew something was wrong. When the engine light came on again today (exactly one week after the injector repairs), I hoped it wasn't something new and that I could just take it back to the mechanic to check it out. Turns out it was this P0455 code. I did research and stumbled onto this video. I replaced the valve and reset the engine code. It's gone now, so I hope it stays gone and that my fuel mileage returns to normal This repair took me a whopping 10 minutes to do. thank you FordTechMakuloco!
Did it improve your fuel economy, ? Code came back?
Hi Brian, amazing channel and a treasure trove of information. My '09 Sport Trac 4x2 4.0 SOHC (April 09) has the old evap purge valve. No matter, it failed at about 185000 miles. Easy replacement of course. So i am guessing some of the earlier 09s may have the older style valve anyway? Perhaps it doesn't matter since there are not too many of those left. Keep up the good work!
Another great video. Thanks for all you do. My wife's 2012 Escape Limited Hybrid had Code P0442. Followed procedure to clean and lubricate the gas cap. O.k. for a bit. Then, threw Code P0456. Purchased and replaced vapor canister purge valve. Thanks!
I know this is an old comment however exactly did you do to remedy the code P0442? Thank you, I’ve been chasing this for awhile now.
@@Sheeeeeeeeeeeeiiitt I have the same exact question! Did you find anything?
At exactly 3:10 you show the 2 vacuum hoses next to the purge valve, does the one in the top left move around freely in the intake or is it supposed to be fixed and not freely move. Trying to trace down a vacuum leak on my 09 2.5 limited and that part where that hose connects is able to freely spin back and forth inside (hose is not loose the actual piece that the hose connects to moves around)
Thank you for this video and the very clear explanation. That saved me a lot of worry and a trip to the dealer for repairs. Worth your help I changed the valve and could then verify the repairs with an OBDII scanner. Much appreciated!
Hey brother,,, can a bad purge valve on 2.5 duratec 2010 Ford Escape cause a crank no start? Or should I look more at the PVC valve? I can't seem to get my truck to start at all . I put some gas in from a dirty gas can and it hasn't fired since..again Crank no start. Please help me out bro!
Mine is doing the same thing it starts and drives but it randomly shut down because of the old fuel I had im there. Im starting to put premium in hopes of cleaning the fuel injectors. Did you end up finding your problem?
We have a 2014 Fusion with this problem... I NEEDED this video! THANK YOU!!!
i guess it is true that ford owners spend a lot of time in auto parts store, yet we always figure it out thanks for the video.
Thank you very much for the great video. This solved my problem and saved a big headache with my 2013 Explorer. Your video efforts are much appreciated!
i was able to fix the purge valve last year. A year later i am popping p0455, check engine light on. i will order another one considering they are cheap and easy to fix. 115k miles 2010 ford escape.
Had this problem on my '10 Escape. Replaced the valve, works great.
where is this located on the 2010 escape? i cannot find it.
very front near battery side
great info. question - i have 2019 f150 3.3 with just 18 k miles with an evap code . do these valves fail at low miles?
I hit a bump and the check engine light came on. Most of what I read said check evap. So tmrw morning I'm getting up early and going to check this as you did, before work. I have a ODBII reader coming from Amazon tomorrow so im going to get to the bottom of this one way or the other. 2012 escape seemed to drive home normal after the bump, no change in how it ran.
awesome simple test thanks. The problem I am having with our 2010 3.0L escape is it wont take fuel at the pump. I have figured out how to manually evap the tank with the ford provided funnel in the cubby. What do I need to do to fix this?
Awesome video! This solved the problem my escape was having! Thanks!
this are good tips, just changed it! but still have the check engine on my 2012 ford escape? any tips on what to check? next?
Hi Brian. this is happening to me again. Replaced cpv beginning of last year after finding your channel and watching your other video on this issue. In the fall, check engine light came on. Went to auto zone and had them read code. They said it was a P0455 but that it was OK to drive. Gas cap light has been coming off and on too (capless tank, Ford 09, 4 cylinder, escape ). This past week I've noticed some hesitation and minor tremor, usually when coming to a stop or low speed like when turning corner. Last weekend my dad said that he smelled some high fumes when I started it. I've been driving this past week with my windows down and noticed the gasoline-ish type smell as well. Well, from nightmare of when this first happened last year as I was exiting the turnpike in rush hour traffic and it stalled out, which resulted in the initial replacement, I'm not taking any chances! Ordered another part off of Amazon tonight! Is this normal for it to fail in so short a time? I ordered the genuine Ford part when I replaced it last year too. Thanks for all that you do to help us out here my friend. You are a blessed man!
+angileques Not normal at all no.
+FordTechMakuloco, Good to know! Thanks again Brian! ♡
It was mentioned in the video that some codes will be listed in the description, but I didn't see that. Did I miss anything? Thanks!
My 2012 GT mustang was throwing P219A code. Pinpointed it to this part. Replaced it and problem fixed
I have a 2010 Explorer but it has the old style valve. I can't seem to find the newer T style shown in the video. 0:49
Thanks for the video, ive noticed on my Ranger the smell of gas after i drive it, but i can detect no leaks or drips, a friend suggested it might be the purge valve. Do you have any suggestions?
Nice video as always!!
Do you know what else it could be that throws the same p1450 because I tested my purge valve like you did and unplugged it will not pull vacuum or leak. 2016 explorer
Hey once again thanks for all your videos My 98 Grand Marquis PCV valve I think it's fine but the part number is EV-98B and I can't find one anywhere they discontinued them do you have any recommendations on an aftermarket one or a different motorcraft part number one?
What a great video so my question would be p2198 and p1450 if they're both showing an evap purge solenoid valve and an O2 sensor, My problem is that after I don't use my vehicle for a day it will just crank but will not fire Will this fix that issue??
Is there supposed to be no air at all when you check if it's bad? Or can it only be a little bit?
Great video. Very informative. I skimmed the comments first. But I have a 2013 Ford F150 V6. My check engine light came on and ran the code to get a P0451. Already replaced the Canister Purge Valve like 6mo ago and when I went to feel for vacuum. There was no suction to my finger. So I think the canister purge valve is still good. What would I want to check next? Thanks for your time!
I get a P0456 on an 04 Lincoln Town Car. Have been told most likely the gas cap leaking vacuum. What part on the gas cap leaks? It looks to be all plastic and rubber. Thanks for doing your videos. All very helpful. I have a smoke machine but not sure how to close off the two valves in the emission system.
Could this also cause a random misfire, P0306, at low idle on a 2015 F150 5.0?
God bless your good heart for such a straight forward video and thanks for sharing
I have a 2012 Explorer 3.5L that threw both banks rich over the weekend when the cold snap hit the DFW area. The light went away on Monday. Just replaced the valve, and the engine even SOUNDS like it's running better. When I pulled it off, it reeked of raw fuel.
I am having trouble finding this canister on my 2012 Fusion Sport 🤷🏼♂️
Any idea where this might located on this year Fusion Sport?
I never make comments nit picking peoples videos because I appreciate the information...buuuut a little dab of oil or any kinda lube on that o ring going in couldn't hurt.
Yup, I generally use trans gel for seals like this so it does not roll the o-ring.
Have a customer coming in for a P144a cel and the first thing I thought was the purge valve. Super common on Fords with this style valve. Have you noticed a lot of canister failures associated with purge valve failures? There's a TSB for emission CELs and the two tests are checking the canisters for fuel inside of them, then there's the purge testing? But I would think a faulty purge valve could pull the fuel inside of the canister thus making the testing of the canister pointless. Not sure if raw fuel inside the canister will cause any damage to canister or would it just dry itself out after the necessary repairs are done.
+30spooln I have never seen a saturated canister is all the purge valves I have changed. They almost never fail full open.
What never fail fully opened? Purge valves? Just working on the vehicle now and the valve is definitely bad. Vacuum being pulled through it when it's disconnected.
Great video. Do they have these problems on the coyote engine. 2014.
Yes
I have an 09 mustang v6, and it’s been stalling on me, and I’ve been getting lean codes, I know you said the F-150 was stalling, but has there been issues with the mustang stalling due to these? I have to let it sit for a few minutes then start it back up, but it misfires and idles rough.
I have a question my purge valve sucks excessive air even when i remove the purge valve, it sucks air from that purge valve where you put the finger, but also from the hole where it connects from purge valve to engine, like you did in the minute 6:45 my question is that normal or ??
My 2010 Ford Escape Hybrid has a evap code P2450. Could this be the same thing? I didn't see a list of codes in the description you kept referencing.
No
Hello there, thanx for the vid, I have a 2013 f150 3.7 v6 flex fuel, I've replaced the purge valve twice, and still have the p0455 code, so is that mean that booth of the valves are defective..?
Thank you for your vids. I don’t see the list of codes, but my 2010 f-150 5.4l gives me bank 1 and bank 2 sensor 1 codes. P0130/P0150. Truck runs rough under load and I’m getting a strong odor from passenger front wheel well. Could this be the cause or should I replace both upstream O2 sensors? Could it be clogged cats making the smell or is it a symptom of what you described in the video or the 02 sensors themselves? Thanks for any help!
Excellent video and thorough explanation!!!
I had bought a 13 F150 with the 5.0 and its had a rough since day one with no codes. The dealership claimed it was normal for the 5.0 to idle a little rough. It almost feels like the truck has a slight misfire though. A small repair shop did hook up a computer recently and said the psi on all cylinders had a vast and erratic fluctuation. They mentioned it could be a bad pressure regulator fuel pump and said the trucks computer was trying to compensate for the loss. Any thoughts? The only symptom is rough idle - idk about fuel economy or accleration issues because it's been like this since I bought it. *Temp doesn't seem to matter for the issue to be present.
Awesome video. I saw the other one you made like this. I have a 2011 Escape V6 with the P0456 code. With the engine running and electrical connector unplugged, I still feel suction so it's stuck open I'm thinking.
Same here ! what did u do ? did u get it fixed ?
Would this cause a “surging” in rpm while driving?
Just had one go bad with P1450. passed this test at first (maybe I didn't wait long enough for it to build up). Plugged in electrical and unplugged it with the engine running and the valve stayed open.
I'm having this issue on my 2014 f150 5.0 flexfuel and tried this method and it doesn't suck in air. any other ideas ? thx
Is there any preference for replacement part? Is it best to use a ford motorcraft part or would any replacement part work?
Hello, I have replaced this valve but still get the p0456 code and the "check filler cap" but my Escape has the capless filler system which I've cleaned as per one of your other videos. Does my capless fuel system need to be replaced or serviced? Thanks!
Carlos G hahahahaha
I tested my purge valve like you said in the video, but could not feel any kind of vacuum. I even let pressure build up and still felt nothing. My car has not been running rough. The Check Engine light just turned on yesterday when I started my car. I'm getting error code P0456. Any other possibilities it could be? I have a 2013 Ford Edge 3.5L
+Brad Chilva Change the valve and reset the pcm and see if the light comes back on the part is so cheap and easy to replace. Reason being is they can stick open intermittently causing the p0457 and or more commonly p0456
+FordTechMakuloco problem fixed. Thanks!
Sir, I have a 2008 mercury mariner that has 27k miles but obviously out of warranty. Fails emission inspection test for 2 codes of same number PO446. I have pulled the vent solenoid and put 12v to it and the plunger actuates. All hoses and connections look beautiful. I read to check voltage for vent solenoid and when I do I get 12.2 volts with no key in ignition as long as I have a REALLY good ground other wise I get off readings that jump around. With key on I get 11.8v again only if I have a really good ground by pushing my meter black end really hard into good metal of vehicle. I didn't think there should be voltage unless the key was on but there is. Anyways I'm trying to figure out what my issue is so I can resolve it. Took it to a ford dealer and they spent 2hrs with no answer and billed 230 bucks. I wasn't going to let them go on for hours and hours with no diagnosis in sight. I wanted to follow the wiring back to the pcm but it goes up into the vehicle probably under the interior carpet. Do u have any thoughts or suggestions for this. I was going to check the purge valve next and maybe to look at the pcm to see if I can find the wire at that point but unsure what to look for or how to test it. If I reset the code with a scan tool one code comes back immediately but the check engine light stays out as long as I leave it running. As soon as I turn it off and restart the cel comes right back on. Could the pcm be bad? Could the wiring be compromised? Could the vent solenoid be bad even though it work fine when I direct apply 12v? This has been a huge pain in the butt.
Jitom7 I have seen these have corrosion under the wire insulation at the connector that connects to the vent solenoid itself, I would peel it back and check for corrosion. It is very simple to test idk why some ford dealers are like this. All you have to do is put a noid light on it and do a pcm self test and they would know right away.
I have a 2010 Fusion Sport (3.5 Liter V-6). I am not finding much in regards to replacing the EVAP canister purge valve. I did find some information indicating that the valve requires removal of the "lower cowl panel grille." Where is this panel? Do you have any information or even pics of where the purge valve is located on the 2010 Fusion Sport? Thanks!
When you have to hold your finger there to let it build up vacuum, does it still need to be changed? That's what my '11 Escape does, plus I had a P144a code.
+tdp22 if any vacuum bleeds past then yes replace it
tdp22
If you had a Ford 2.3 L4 the purge valve is located in the left side firewall fyi took me a min to find thought it was by the throttle body
FordTechMakuloco - We have codes P0456 (twice) and P1450 (once) showing on our Ford Escape 2009. Your video is very helpful and it seems like a quick easy fix, but just to be sure where exactly is this part located on the vehicle? I have not attempted to search for it yet. Sorry in advance if this should be obvious.
On the 2.5l it is on the front of he intake, on the 3.0l it should be behind the throttle body bolted to the intake
+FordTechMakuloco Thank you for all your help and information, we were able to fix the problem with just that small piece and it was simple. Will be visiting in the future for any other problems that arise! Thanks!
in a 2011 crown vic
FordTechMakuloco I have a 2016 1.6L Escape Titanium that is giving me a P144a code.. Will this help?
I have a 2005 Mercury Mariner with a po443 code. I checked the power at the purge valve (Valve is OK, did direct power test and it clicks and opens and passes air). At the harness plug I'm not getting a constant +12v but a -12v. The -12v, I assume comes from the ECM to open and close the purge valve. The vent valve has a fuse #27 in the consul side which is OK. Where does the +12v power from the purge valve come from. Is there is no fuse for it like the vent valve. I bought a rebuilt ECM and it's doing the same thing. Does the constant +12v come from the ECM. I was told by the company that it does. is that correct?
I have a 2010 2.5 ford fusion, and I'm in between shops right now, no good scan tool available for me to use yet. P1450 and p0451. I checked canister purge with engine running (never been replaced) and it is not sucking on finger. Fuel mileage has decreased so I was thinking this. My tank pressure reading is -.91kpa which I think is out of spec. Maybe I will put my vacuum gauge on it to make sure canister purge is indeed ok. Have you replaced pressure sensor for this also. Voltage to both sensors is good?? Other thoughts??
I cleaned the fuel filler that way you show and I checked for vacuum on the Purge valve and I don't have suction but my engine still keeps throwing Po456. I even put a stant locking fill cap on it. Anything else that can be causing p0456?
I think I need to change my name on my truck because after filling up with gas it have a hard stall but I don't have no check engine light on... What do u think
I have 04 ranger with the first valve you had shown. The hose that connects to the top of the engine is dry rotted bad. Would that cause rough idle issue when starting up?
I have a 2017 lariat sport eco boost and it has intermittent rough hesitation when driving and taking off I just had a code p1450 and am wondering if you have any idea if it is this purge valve