The shot showing the effect of the stuck tensioner was very helpful. It is a great reference for diagnostics. Thanks for taking the time to make and post the video.
We bought a Caddy SRX AWD with the 3.6. Cool thing about the AWD is the engine/trans is linear instead of transverse mounted. I still have to work on it seems as much as you do yours but this setup makes it a lot easier; much more like working on a pickup truck
I feel your pain! You said it nicely though. I hate this car. I put a transmission in it before this, only to have the module fail while under warranty. The sunroof vents clog every few months, replace the blower motor, struts, stabilizer links. Now this. Did the whole chain in the driveway like you. I somehow got one cam off 90°. Too many marks on the phasers. Now I have to tear it apart again. I'm about ready to roll it off a cliff
Just a an Observation with these motor and a lot of manufacturers they make the pvc system operate to minimum spec. So it make the oil get contaminated with not venting properly with DI mitigating oil. Then the addition of extended oil change intervals make it horrific. So every things get gummed up and has to work harder. Their fairly decent engines that were designed to return to the service bay. My suggestion would be a timing chain and phaser replacement. 3-5k oil change intervals with Amsoil (quality oil). Use Shell Rotella t6(diesel motor/higher cleaning agents) oil and a flush oil and to clean up the oil system yearly or twice. Only as a flush so just fill/drain 3/30 min =3 bottles then place quality oil. Also replace the PVC breather yearly. Liquidmoly fuel injection cleaner 6 cans one on each fill up to attack carbon build up on pistons. This a thing that the across the board with all manufactures in my opinion. So optimal maintenance schedule is required for all these cars that are usa manfactutred. Need a bullet proof car Lexus even high mileage 100k-190k depending on how it was driven mostly highway. Use the flush method / carbon clean /pvc replacement on Lexus motor as maintenance and you'll thank me later. lol
This vehicle is a pain. I'm currently working on mine. Attempting to replace cam phaser exhaust, bank 1. Used the tool but it doesn't do well. Couldn't get it to retain the chain. Gonna have to remove the timing cover anyway. Seems this tool is more so for retaining the chain while having to still remove the timing cover. Bummer. Thanks for the vid.
I notice the tensioner will be lock if it's not push in all the way, (I used a C camp to push it in) and reload the holding pin, make sure it works by pulling the holding pin to verify it's not lock in place.
Every now and then I give the pcv a couple of squirts of throttle body cleaner on engine, also change oil every 2.500 miles and add a bottle of high milage Rislone. 250.000 miles no slap no problems, get 19 miles a gallon.
A bud of mine wrecked his vvt gaskets and I'm not exactly sure of location. Just wondering if you can replace them from the top side removing phasers with same tool or is chain cover removal necessary?
good job just for attempting it(& good chance successful). I believe to change everything at dealer, full timing chain kit, water pump, oil pump, all 4 camshaft wheels, all gaskets, set timing phase 1 & 2, & alll that gibity gab.. costs several thousand at dealer, & a few thousand at least at mechanic(& they have chance of screwing up).. it ain’t no picnic & I wonder if it’s cheaper & better just to buy a low mileage used engine & swap it- that’s an unknown I suppose👋😔
Be prepared to chase diy problems. I have to replace lifters in bank 2 and the sensor on top of the tank ony 2010 Camaro V6. To make it easy change the phasers, lifters and rocker arms while you got it open. I also changed the oil pump. Plenty of good vidz on how to do all that. It may cost 1k or a lil more but better than 5-7k. Or more at a shop. 😳
I used a 3 jaw puller that i cut one of the reversible jaws in half to clear the structure of the car. It was a real pain to get that jaw to stay engaged. I think i wound up wedging a 3/8 extension between that jaw and the center screw to get it to hold in place
@Rosco P Soultrain , thank you for responding. I think I may have seen that in one of your videos? I appreciate your taking time to answer, thanks again! 🤙💪🇺🇸🇺🇸
I have a question for you sir. My new chain jumped two teeth on the intake phaser just how yours was doing. Why is it doing this the three chains and tensioner and guides are all brand new. (Dry?) would be my only guess but how do I prevent it from jumping timing when it’s all put back together? (Currently timing covers sealer so if I can get away without pulling it again that would be ideal.
I think because I had a bad phaser that the phaser activating at startup caused a shock load in the chain that was enough to retract the tensioner. That is just my guess on what I had happen to my motor.
@@roscopsoultrain5875 if you wait to long to start the motor after the new timing chain installed Weeks/ Months. The tensioners can dry out. and stick momentarally. The tensioners are oil pressurized and a dry start will give the chains enough time to jump on initial start up while the motor builds pressure. If doing dry start , disable ignition and build up pressure by using the starter in one long crank over.
Regarding "the tool"...google the number specified in the video and you can find for about $165 or so....but, beware.....it seems as though the tool locks everything in place so that the chain does not slip off the lower sprocket - not provide slack. Additionally, it would seem as though you need to remove the camshaft to get the sprocket out as there does not seem to be enough clearance to remove the sprocket with the camshaft and chains in place.....is there anyone that has actually changed these without removing the cover or is this an urban legend?
You have way too much sludge in that engine. The oil pressure passages in the chain tensioner there gets clogged, varnished, and then fail. More freq oil changes, better oil, and especially keep the PCV oriface holes clean on that engine right bank ( to left when looking at the front chain sets.) They are too small and clog, completely. Some people ream those orifaces out bigger, They are really tiny/small. Then carbons from the trapped crankcase gases gum the oil. (ESPECIALLY with Ethanol fuels) Known issue with these 3.6L GMs. Ive worked on these a bunch..
on pcv-valve one guy had a video & said to drill top hole to 7/64ths & 2 bottom ones to 5/64ths & he cleaned it w/brake cleaner.. perhaps that & sea foaming hole darn engine & putting some oil cleaner in there.. is there some cleaner that turns oil sludge into liquid do it can be drained out? or perhaps chlorine free brake cleaner & a vaquum for top area?, then sea foam?, then this oil cleaner stuff with oil change?, & then maybe tensioner holes don’t get clogged?.. idOnO watta conIving factory scam, or mAB just screw up👋
I have a Cadillac CTS with the same engine, just did this for the third time, finally got it right I believe? I bought the car with the problem so have no baseline to know for sure but it is running very well right now (as much as a 3.0L can I guess) though it ran pretty well before after my second attempt too until it didn't. Anyway the codes clearing is still my concern, if I may ask? Where did you find the info regarding the codes clearing in 15 run cycles and/or 200 miles, I have an OBD scanner program and have cleared them multiple times but as soon as I shut it off and restart, the codes return, did this eventually resolve for you and do you have any idea what amount of run time is considered a run cycle? I need to get rid of this CEL it's bugging me and I may be selling this bugger.
@@EEEBA1 Personally I would not want to do this job more than once if you even get a second chance to since it's an interference engine, though it seems that's nearly impossible. I would most definitely change all functional parts, to me having raced sports car before, it is not worth cutting corners, if anything fails then you suddenly have an interference engine that implodes on itself and the parts are not prohibitively expensive to change.
good afternoon friend, I have a Chevrolet Captiva 3.6 v6 engine and I have to change the pulleys of the intake controls I live in Dourados Mato Grosso do Sul in Brazil, and I cannot find this tool here in Brazil to buy, could you please tell me help me by passing the code of this tool or some site that I could import from your country to mine I would appreciate it, thank you
I bought mine from Freedom Racing. I believe they are around $170. Come in a set of 2 so you can do both banks at the same time. I imagine mine are just going to sit in my toolbox for the rest of their life so I'd make you a deal on these.
@@roscopsoultrain5875 Would you take $100 for it? I am running into the same issue, the second Mechanic says the phasers are bad after the first mechanic changed chains and tensioners and everything else. So to avoid the total mess of taking everything apart i hope this tool will do the trick.
Thanks. Hoping my code on 3.6 is just the solenoid. Probably not. Just sold my best car for $4. Saab 93 250,000 mile, no work except oring on power steering. Probably going to be sorry.
someone’s gotta invent a biodegradable substance that turns all oil sludge into a fine viscosity liquid that can be drained, THEN someone must make a step by step viDO for how to replace, clean, a torque the entire timing chain area with EVERYTHING REPLACED. mNnnn some1 do it, we don’t all have 3-4000$ to fork over to the dealer while we car lessly wait a few weeks for them to get around to it👋😑.
Well done on your repair and your patience for this engine. It looks like this is something everyone with this will need to tackle at some stage. I have this engine and the error codes so ill need to do this fix. I have looked at many youtube vids on this and everyone of them gives a little tip that add up.😎 Thankyou from Australia. One interesting tip i just found out was to clean and replace the oil pickup filter and seal in the oil sump, i think this may be the source of many troubles looking at the design of the way the pickup seal mates with the oil pump.. th-cam.com/video/4sR7qPgYiSk/w-d-xo.html
I recently seen on a video that the 2 bolts to oil pump have to be torques in a very specific, strange sequence.. that mIt be part of it too. let’s face it, these things are probley designed from factory to be nearly impossible for everyone but triple priced dealer. It’s a dRn good scM👋
the reason this car is annoying is cause of that interference(which is interdependent) engineering, one thing goes wrong & it makes other stuff go rong. pcv holes/sludge in engine clogges up phasers, they mess up timing, or make oil clog up tensioners, then loose chain, then mess up timing, & so on, in what ever order, this needs up that, then that messes up this. why? s2pid-S interfeerance engine engineering crap. & 183k/10 years old is the kind of area where this s2pidiT comes to flourish in its dumnS. Because if this multidirectional interactive engineering dumness/s2pidiT, one is Ysr 2 replace everything & clean it at same time.. now on that note about that hypothetical sludge dissolver I mentioned in last comment.. never-mind i gUgLd it, auto RX plus all natural engine cleaner, 1 plastic bottle.. so perhaps problem start to finish is - 1, brake clean/vacuum out bulk of sludge under oil covers, 2, drill top hole 7/64ths & botom 2 holes 5/64 in PCV valve & clean with brake cleaner, 3- oil change & flop 2 bottles of that auto RX in there. 4- again in another 3000k & 5, do an entire timing chain, with water pump, oil pump(trick to torque those bolts in secret sequence, utube it), seal to sump pump, etc., all the cam phasers & sprokets & gaskets & everything.. then from then on, change w/quality oil maintanance dose of auto-RX & Home Depot green can chlorine free brake clean pcv valve each time. for all those little holes in crankshaft actuators & phaser sprockets & timing chain tensioners & ALLL THAAAT DUMLY ENGINEERED STUFF.. someone please make 1 good video of the entire above paragraph?☝️ THANQ!😑
I have a burt valve and no ship wants to touch it.i do t get it isn't that there job they are getting to money to do the job what's wrong with these lazy people.thinking of doing it myself and chains since it has 150000 miles
The shot showing the effect of the stuck tensioner was very helpful. It is a great reference for diagnostics. Thanks for taking the time to make and post the video.
We bought a Caddy SRX AWD with the 3.6. Cool thing about the AWD is the engine/trans is linear instead of transverse mounted. I still have to work on it seems as much as you do yours but this setup makes it a lot easier; much more like working on a pickup truck
I feel your pain! You said it nicely though. I hate this car. I put a transmission in it before this, only to have the module fail while under warranty. The sunroof vents clog every few months, replace the blower motor, struts, stabilizer links. Now this. Did the whole chain in the driveway like you. I somehow got one cam off 90°. Too many marks on the phasers. Now I have to tear it apart again. I'm about ready to roll it off a cliff
Just a an Observation with these motor and a lot of manufacturers they make the pvc system operate to minimum spec. So it make the oil get contaminated with not venting properly with DI mitigating oil. Then the addition of extended oil change intervals make it horrific. So every things get gummed up and has to work harder. Their fairly decent engines that were designed to return to the service bay. My suggestion would be a timing chain and phaser replacement. 3-5k oil change intervals with Amsoil (quality oil). Use Shell Rotella t6(diesel motor/higher cleaning agents) oil and a flush oil and to clean up the oil system yearly or twice. Only as a flush so just fill/drain 3/30 min =3 bottles then place quality oil. Also replace the PVC breather yearly. Liquidmoly fuel injection cleaner 6 cans one on each fill up to attack carbon build up on pistons. This a thing that the across the board with all manufactures in my opinion. So optimal maintenance schedule is required for all these cars that are usa manfactutred. Need a bullet proof car Lexus even high mileage 100k-190k depending on how it was driven mostly highway. Use the flush method / carbon clean /pvc replacement on Lexus motor as maintenance and you'll thank me later. lol
This vehicle is a pain. I'm currently working on mine. Attempting to replace cam phaser exhaust, bank 1. Used the tool but it doesn't do well. Couldn't get it to retain the chain. Gonna have to remove the timing cover anyway. Seems this tool is more so for retaining the chain while having to still remove the timing cover. Bummer. Thanks for the vid.
Good video, thank you! 🤙 Keep up the good fight brother. These motors are a real pain in the A$$!!
I notice the tensioner will be lock if it's not push in all the way, (I used a C camp to push it in) and reload the holding pin, make sure it works by pulling the holding pin to verify it's not lock in place.
Every now and then I give the pcv a couple of squirts of throttle body cleaner on engine, also change oil every 2.500 miles and add a bottle of high milage Rislone. 250.000 miles no slap no problems, get 19 miles a gallon.
By any chance do you still have this tool? I have been looking everywhere and it is sold out absolutely everywhere
A bud of mine wrecked his vvt gaskets and I'm not exactly sure of location. Just wondering if you can replace them from the top side removing phasers with same tool or is chain cover removal necessary?
I feel your pain. I'm getting a P0014 code on mine. Any advice on this before I tackle it?
Sell it as quick as you can
I own a shop I love doing timing chains on these I’ve done so many of them I can have the engine and transmission dropped out in 45min.
Yea ok
good job just for attempting it(& good chance successful). I believe to change everything at dealer, full timing chain kit, water pump, oil pump, all 4 camshaft wheels, all gaskets, set timing phase 1 & 2, & alll that gibity gab.. costs several thousand at dealer, & a few thousand at least at mechanic(& they have chance of screwing up).. it ain’t no picnic & I wonder if it’s cheaper & better just to buy a low mileage used engine & swap it- that’s an unknown I suppose👋😔
Installing my new Intake Left Phaser and has some play, is it normal? Chains off and phaser is new ac delco
Plz help
Carry-on Wayne, carry-on Garth.
Be prepared to chase diy problems. I have to replace lifters in bank 2 and the sensor on top of the tank ony 2010 Camaro V6. To make it easy change the phasers, lifters and rocker arms while you got it open. I also changed the oil pump. Plenty of good vidz on how to do all that. It may cost 1k or a lil more but better than 5-7k. Or more at a shop. 😳
Where did you purchase the tool? Can't seem to find one anywhere.
Where did you order this tool from?
@@brandonboggan5738 freedomracing.com
Great video!! Can you tell us what tool you use for removing the harmonic balancer?
I used a 3 jaw puller that i cut one of the reversible jaws in half to clear the structure of the car. It was a real pain to get that jaw to stay engaged. I think i wound up wedging a 3/8 extension between that jaw and the center screw to get it to hold in place
@Rosco P Soultrain , thank you for responding. I think I may have seen that in one of your videos? I appreciate your taking time to answer, thanks again! 🤙💪🇺🇸🇺🇸
How is it today? I know these are prone to timing chain stretching.
I don't see that tool available on Amazon. I need one for my 2014 Ford Mustang V6 3.7. Can someone please help me with a link or key words? Thank you.
I got it from Freedomracing.com
My acadia chain is doing the same thing. After replacing the tensioner did yours not do that anymore
For a while
How many hoirs to replace timing chains and passers
It took me two weekends, but i had a lot of distractions that interrupted me
Do you remeber the torque specs for the cam phaser bolt? Found somewhere on the internet that said 118ft/lbs witch broke the bolt off in the cam
I believe it was 45ft/lbs but i cant recal for sure
I have a question for you sir. My new chain jumped two teeth on the intake phaser just how yours was doing. Why is it doing this the three chains and tensioner and guides are all brand new. (Dry?) would be my only guess but how do I prevent it from jumping timing when it’s all put back together? (Currently timing covers sealer so if I can get away without pulling it again that would be ideal.
I think because I had a bad phaser that the phaser activating at startup caused a shock load in the chain that was enough to retract the tensioner. That is just my guess on what I had happen to my motor.
@@roscopsoultrain5875 if you wait to long to start the motor after the new timing chain installed Weeks/ Months. The tensioners can dry out. and stick momentarally. The tensioners are oil pressurized and a dry start will give the chains enough time to jump on initial start up while the motor builds pressure. If doing dry start , disable ignition and build up pressure by using the starter in one long crank over.
where did you buy the tool and a price if possible
Fredom Racing tool and Auto. I think it was a little over $300 for the pair. I am thinkig about putting the ones i have on ebay.
Regarding "the tool"...google the number specified in the video and you can find for about $165 or so....but, beware.....it seems as though the tool locks everything in place so that the chain does not slip off the lower sprocket - not provide slack. Additionally, it would seem as though you need to remove the camshaft to get the sprocket out as there does not seem to be enough clearance to remove the sprocket with the camshaft and chains in place.....is there anyone that has actually changed these without removing the cover or is this an urban legend?
I am currently attempting to 😂
You have way too much sludge in that engine. The oil pressure passages in the chain tensioner there gets clogged, varnished, and then fail. More freq oil changes, better oil, and especially keep the PCV oriface holes clean on that engine right bank ( to left when looking at the front chain sets.) They are too small and clog, completely. Some people ream those orifaces out bigger, They are really tiny/small. Then carbons from the trapped crankcase gases gum the oil. (ESPECIALLY with Ethanol fuels) Known issue with these 3.6L GMs. Ive worked on these a bunch..
on pcv-valve one guy had a video & said to drill top hole to 7/64ths & 2 bottom ones to 5/64ths & he cleaned it w/brake cleaner..
perhaps that & sea foaming hole darn engine & putting some oil cleaner in there.. is there some cleaner that turns oil sludge into liquid do it can be drained out? or perhaps chlorine free brake cleaner & a vaquum for top area?, then sea foam?, then this oil cleaner stuff with oil change?, & then maybe tensioner holes don’t get clogged?.. idOnO watta conIving factory scam, or mAB just screw up👋
Superman!
The dang tool is $532 if you can find it. It might just be easier to go ahead and remove the cover.
I have a Cadillac CTS with the same engine, just did this for the third time, finally got it right I believe? I bought the car with the problem so have no baseline to know for sure but it is running very well right now (as much as a 3.0L can I guess) though it ran pretty well before after my second attempt too until it didn't. Anyway the codes clearing is still my concern, if I may ask? Where did you find the info regarding the codes clearing in 15 run cycles and/or 200 miles, I have an OBD scanner program and have cleared them multiple times but as soon as I shut it off and restart, the codes return, did this eventually resolve for you and do you have any idea what amount of run time is considered a run cycle? I need to get rid of this CEL it's bugging me and I may be selling this bugger.
I cant remember where i read it at. The codes did clear after a couple days of regular driving
If I'm doing the phaser replacement on a 2008 Cadillac CTS with 124000 miles should I replace the timing chain as well?
@@EEEBA1 Personally I would not want to do this job more than once if you even get a second chance to since it's an interference engine, though it seems that's nearly impossible. I would most definitely change all functional parts, to me having raced sports car before, it is not worth cutting corners, if anything fails then you suddenly have an interference engine that implodes on itself and the parts are not prohibitively expensive to change.
@@kw57rx8dr.9 I agree. It's better to change it since it should be easy to access.
good afternoon friend, I have a Chevrolet Captiva 3.6 v6 engine and I have to change the pulleys of the intake controls I live in Dourados Mato Grosso do Sul in Brazil, and I cannot find this tool here in Brazil to buy, could you please tell me help me by passing the code of this tool or some site that I could import from your country to mine I would appreciate it, thank you
I just got done with mine I have a p0019 code for bank 2
The exhaust cam
Where did you get the chain tool? I can seem to find it anywhere. Thanks.
I bought mine from Freedom Racing. I believe they are around $170. Come in a set of 2 so you can do both banks at the same time. I imagine mine are just going to sit in my toolbox for the rest of their life so I'd make you a deal on these.
@@roscopsoultrain5875 Would you take $100 for it? I am running into the same issue, the second Mechanic says the phasers are bad after the first mechanic changed chains and tensioners and everything else. So to avoid the total mess of taking everything apart i hope this tool will do the trick.
Let me know about the tool, I am still willing to buy it. Thanks
You still have the tool?
Anyone still have this tool and looking to sell it? Let me know.
Where did you get that tool? What is it called?
I got it from Freedomracing.com. it is called an En-48313 timing chain retaining tool
Would you be willing to do a rental of this tool for a weekend? Having a hard time locating the tool. No one has any in stock
U still selling the tool?
Thanks. Hoping my code on 3.6 is just the solenoid. Probably not. Just sold my best car for $4. Saab 93 250,000 mile, no work except oring on power steering. Probably going to be sorry.
Toyota . Honda . Tahoe or suburban. In mid 2000’s years . Reliability
Thank you for the video. Planning to tackle this job. It's this tool really 250$?? Anyone want to lend one if so? Yikes
someone’s gotta invent a biodegradable substance that turns all oil sludge into a fine viscosity liquid that can be drained, THEN someone must make a step by step viDO for how to replace, clean, a torque the entire timing chain area with EVERYTHING REPLACED. mNnnn some1 do it, we don’t all have 3-4000$ to fork over to the dealer while we car lessly wait a few weeks for them to get around to it👋😑.
Well done on your repair and your patience for this engine. It looks like this is something everyone with this will need to tackle at some stage.
I have this engine and the error codes so ill need to do this fix. I have looked at many youtube vids on this and everyone of them gives a little tip that add up.😎 Thankyou from Australia. One interesting tip i just found out was to clean and replace the oil pickup filter and seal in the oil sump, i think this may be the source of many troubles looking at the design of the way the pickup seal mates with the oil pump.. th-cam.com/video/4sR7qPgYiSk/w-d-xo.html
I recently seen on a video that the 2 bolts to oil pump have to be torques in a very specific, strange sequence.. that mIt be part of it too. let’s face it, these things are probley designed from factory to be nearly impossible for everyone but triple priced dealer. It’s a dRn good scM👋
Wanna come fix mine
Less talk more work
The best thing that you can do with the 3.6L is throw it in the trash.
Do not buy a GM car with 3.6 VVT engine. My Enclave 3.6 failed at 68K miles. This is a crap engine.
They came crappy from factory but with a little touch ups these motors can last you 300k+ miles. In other words it needs to be rebuilt
Mine blew at 69k miles, same motor I’m going to buy a donor motor to replace the bottom end that blew up
the reason this car is annoying is cause of that interference(which is interdependent) engineering, one thing goes wrong & it makes other stuff go rong. pcv holes/sludge in engine clogges up phasers, they mess up timing, or make oil clog up tensioners, then loose chain, then mess up timing, & so on, in what ever order, this needs up that, then that messes up this. why? s2pid-S interfeerance engine engineering crap. & 183k/10 years old is the kind of area where this s2pidiT comes to flourish in its dumnS. Because if this multidirectional interactive engineering dumness/s2pidiT, one is Ysr 2 replace everything & clean it at same time..
now on that note about that hypothetical sludge dissolver I mentioned in last comment.. never-mind i gUgLd it, auto RX plus all natural engine cleaner, 1 plastic bottle.. so perhaps problem start to finish is - 1, brake clean/vacuum out bulk of sludge under oil covers, 2, drill top hole 7/64ths & botom 2 holes 5/64 in PCV valve & clean with brake cleaner, 3- oil change & flop 2 bottles of that auto RX in there. 4- again in another 3000k & 5, do an entire timing chain, with water pump, oil pump(trick to torque those bolts in secret sequence, utube it), seal to sump pump, etc., all the cam phasers & sprokets & gaskets & everything.. then from then on, change w/quality oil maintanance dose of auto-RX & Home Depot green can chlorine free brake clean pcv valve each time. for all those little holes in crankshaft actuators & phaser sprockets & timing chain tensioners & ALLL THAAAT DUMLY ENGINEERED STUFF.. someone please make 1 good video of the entire above paragraph?☝️ THANQ!😑
I have a burt valve and no ship wants to touch it.i do t get it isn't that there job they are getting to money to do the job what's wrong with these lazy people.thinking of doing it myself and chains since it has 150000 miles