First off great video, helped a lot! I’m working on a 2011 GMC Acadia which did not seem to need the thrust washers. Also in the Haynes GMC manual and Cloyes video referenced, state the torque specs for the cam phasers is 43 ft-lbs (listed as timing chain idler sprocket bolts). Hope this helps. 19:43
phenomenal sir!! thanks!! I m doing a timing chain on a 3.6 that was recently replaced with the same issues I m replacing the chain, phasers, and oil pump, I bought the vehicle cheap and I m praying its a diamond in the ruff
So it’s been a year, did you do a follow up video to this one? Great videos btw. I’ve watched all of them. Great quality and discussion. Don’t you know there’s some GM engineer that’s watch this and those a solution but can’t comment on it since he’s an employee! If you don’t have a follow up video, have you just been driving the vehicle with the campers unplugged this whole time and no codes and no problems?
I've been driving it with the cam actuators unplugged it runs great with the code glaring in my face on the dash. The vehicle is on hold as far as working on it but I'll give an update if I find out what's ailing it
(provided the cam is only out of alignment by one tooth) Let's say this happens in stage 1 timing. line up the crank dot with the oil pump indicator, with the chain loose move the cam or cams in either direction until the cams are flat then reinstall your chain. 5:27 Hope this helps
I’m having a problem with my 2007 Cadillac CTS no power when I accelerate and rattles then once I’m on 2000 RPM the car is running fine. What could it be?
what ever happened with the p0300? I just finished my chain replacement and im throwing the same code. Im knee deep in it now. Im going to check my solenoids now.
36:33 with the solenoids unplugged p0300 went away and that's how I've been driving ever since. As of yet I haven't got a chance to look into it any further. (with the solenoids plugged in I'm getting over advanced timing plus multiple misfires)
could the thrust play cause low oil pressure when the car reaches operating temp? car has 70 cold, less then 8psi hot, seems to be alot of oil splashing behind the phasers
I don't believe so The thrust washer soul purpose is to keep the cam from walking (seems very odd to have that amount of oil pressure fluctuation as you stated
@@wildwoodtop the car has a new crank, new bearings, oil pump, timing chain, VVT sprockets. it ran good at first, after a few miles of driving I get a bad rattle on start up again and now low oil pressure when hot.(I don't think engine bearings are the cause i Mic'd everything and plasti-gauged its all in spec) do you think a tensioner has failed? also when at high RPM the oil pressure is good but you can hear a timing chain rattle/slap
@@mdamron115 Sounds like you're going to have to remove the timing cover and investigate (these engines are complex and I can't just make a determination without Hands-On investigating) as you seen at the end of my video I'm struggling with a new problem that's got me baffled LOL
@@wildwoodtop I took the timing cover off, i noticed for some reason i put RTV on the oil pump mating surface, maybe thats were im losing my pressure? all tensioners were locked out and fine
I've never done oil pump and don't know what type of material is to be used for mating surfaces (I didn't use any RTV sealant on the chain tensioners for fear of sealant getting in the little oil porthole. I used the seals that came with the kit
First off great video, helped a lot! I’m working on a 2011 GMC Acadia which did not seem to need the thrust washers. Also in the Haynes GMC manual and Cloyes video referenced, state the torque specs for the cam phasers is 43 ft-lbs (listed as timing chain idler sprocket bolts). Hope this helps. 19:43
Could not agree with you more!
great video lots of info and good camera quality eagerly awaiting the follow up vid
👍✌
phenomenal sir!! thanks!! I m doing a timing chain on a 3.6 that was recently replaced with the same issues I m replacing the chain, phasers, and oil pump, I bought the vehicle cheap and I m praying its a diamond in the ruff
Wishing you nothing but success with your project 👍
@@wildwoodtop thanks!!!!
@@mky9227 You are welcome!
How’d you fair? I’m in the middle of a 3.6 with all the parts you mentioned plus the oil pick up tube.
@@davidcarlson2993 The caddy is on hold, been working on other projects. I'll give update and post video with the solution
Thank you for your videos if it wasn’t for you I don’t know where I’ll be at
Awesome teacher! I was nailed behind the screen and watching.
😲😂✌
Great vid bud good information
Would you have any tricks to hold the chain in place with the front cover still on so can change them
🙂 th-cam.com/video/Tva13U_G3q4/w-d-xo.html 🙂
Thank you! Great workout to start the chilly Minnesota indoor season 😂
✌🤟
So it’s been a year, did you do a follow up video to this one? Great videos btw. I’ve watched all of them. Great quality and discussion. Don’t you know there’s some GM engineer that’s watch this and those a solution but can’t comment on it since he’s an employee! If you don’t have a follow up video, have you just been driving the vehicle with the campers unplugged this whole time and no codes and no problems?
I've been driving it with the cam actuators unplugged it runs great with the code glaring in my face on the dash. The vehicle is on hold as far as working on it but I'll give an update if I find out what's ailing it
I very like your video. Thanks
Thank you! 👍✌
What happens if the cam jump's in you how do you get it back in its right spot
(provided the cam is only out of alignment by one tooth) Let's say this happens in stage 1 timing. line up the crank dot with the oil pump indicator, with the chain loose move the cam or cams in either direction until the cams are flat then reinstall your chain. 5:27 Hope this helps
I’m having a problem with my 2007 Cadillac CTS no power when I accelerate and rattles then once I’m on 2000 RPM the car is running fine. What could it be?
Seems you're having the same issue I ran into at the end of the video. I haven't figured it out yet lol
Did you find the solution to the cam phaser solenoids activating at idle problem?
No solution as of yet but that's exactly what they're doing, they are activated during idle. Finally throwing a code Camshaft over advanced timing
You seem really smart good work
Thank you! 👍
what ever happened with the p0300? I just finished my chain replacement and im throwing the same code. Im knee deep in it now. Im going to check my solenoids now.
36:33 with the solenoids unplugged p0300 went away and that's how I've been driving ever since. As of yet I haven't got a chance to look into it any further. (with the solenoids plugged in I'm getting over advanced timing plus multiple misfires)
Did you find the solution to the cam phaser solenoids activating at idle problem? I think I might be having the same problem.
No I haven't I've been busy on other things the car is on hold at the moment. Eventually will post vid with solution
Thank you so much for this video - so well explained and clearly demonstrated!! 👏👏
You are welcome! 👍
What's the difference between the 5 bolt and 4 bolt? It just seems like the 5 bolt is better.
If there's room for more bolts the more the merrier 🤔
Must have been a production standard change 💁♂
So what happened after? Was it a bad ecm? No follow up video?
The caddy is on hold, been working on other projects. I'll give update and post video with the solution 🤞
What would happen if you do not install thrust washer on phaser bank 1 intake? On a 2008 would it no longer start?
I do believe it would run fine. However I'm not sure of the long-term effect (certain years require thrust washer so I threw them in there)
could the thrust play cause low oil pressure when the car reaches operating temp? car has 70 cold, less then 8psi hot, seems to be alot of oil splashing behind the phasers
I don't believe so The thrust washer soul purpose is to keep the cam from walking (seems very odd to have that amount of oil pressure fluctuation as you stated
@@wildwoodtop the car has a new crank, new bearings, oil pump, timing chain, VVT sprockets. it ran good at first, after a few miles of driving I get a bad rattle on start up again and now low oil pressure when hot.(I don't think engine bearings are the cause i Mic'd everything and plasti-gauged its all in spec) do you think a tensioner has failed? also when at high RPM the oil pressure is good but you can hear a timing chain rattle/slap
@@mdamron115 Sounds like you're going to have to remove the timing cover and investigate (these engines are complex and I can't just make a determination without Hands-On investigating) as you seen at the end of my video I'm struggling with a new problem that's got me baffled LOL
@@wildwoodtop I took the timing cover off, i noticed for some reason i put RTV on the oil pump mating surface, maybe thats were im losing my pressure? all tensioners were locked out and fine
I've never done oil pump and don't know what type of material is to be used for mating surfaces (I didn't use any RTV sealant on the chain tensioners for fear of sealant getting in the little oil porthole. I used the seals that came with the kit
Nice job
its a 27 Torx plus you really need the right bit
I got one this engines with 100k miles
I have a 2011 cts 3.0l through anti theft code and now doesn't want to start thanks to me losing keys.
Yikes! 😱 will you have to go to the dealer to get it fixed 🤔
@@wildwoodtopyou could fix it yourself with tech2
U can buy a timing kit for the 3.6 lfx engine with all 4 phasers water pump and new oil pump
Yes Sir! Absolutely! 👍
3.6 is not a good engine, imo , I would never buy anything with that engine.
I found out the hard way 😂 ... 😐
Reason number 4632 not to buy a GM product.
😂 Gotta Love it! 🤟
Reason number 4632 not to buy a GM product. /s
Any update on this issue
The caddy is on hold, been working on other projects. I'll give update and post video with the solution