This by far is explained thoroughly step by step. Others say i already did this or that. Not him, just watching im getting brave to tackle 3.6 traverse. Wish me luck 😳
I have been dealing with these engines practically since they were introduced. Even though there was an issue with the quality of the chains , guides, and tensioners. I have found out the biggest issue is with lack of maintenance. A large percentage of failures are attributed to not changing your oil regularly, low oil volume, or poor quality of oil. Simply changing your oil as required and using a good quality oil can greatly increase the life of this engine.
I watch mechanic videos quite often this the very time I added a comment. The reason for this comment is to thank you for such a great detailed professional video. On a scale from 0 to 10 in which 10 is the highest score I want to give you a 12 simply marvelous very well detailed thank you I subscribed to channel keep up the good work.
I had the same problem today pulling the pin on the bank 1.3.5 tensioner, with the Cloyes kit. BTW, my 2011 Saab 9-5 with 140k still had the original GM timing components in it. If you looked closely at the guides “Cloyes” was imprinted in the nylon from factory.
Buick enclave. Have done it 3 times now. All new parts including phasers . Persistent P0019. Have checked the crank clock ring as well. Welcoming insight and suggestions
Way too difficult to throw out an answer when there are so many scenarios that could be causing this malfunction. Example, let's say your timing cover for some reason is not in close proximity with the cam sensor as it used to be. That in and of itself would throw a P0019
Could not agree with you more! Stretch changes in 3 years and in under 20,000 miles. Very puzzling 🤨 I have no clue why they Stretched (Changed oil regularly)
I need help with the GM HFV6 engine, because I had to change the crankshaft, but there are 2 models where the accessory pulley key changes. I installed the new crankshaft with a different type of key and the car does not start and shows a timing error in the engine. Can anyone who knows this engine well tell me if there are any changes between the 2 crankshaft models that could be causing this problem or could it just be a mounting error at the point of the chains? thanks.
oh.. if only it was this easy have one of these engines in my outlook. "timed" three times now.. still out of whack. dealer quoted 4 grand to do it themselves with no parts (all parts are new)
Hey how's it going I was going by your video doing my timing on a 2008 Cadillac CTS and we have gotten to the point to where you put oil on the change to get ready to turn over your motor. Can you tell me, did you have to plug anything up in order to get power to your starter to turn your engine over? We did exactly what you said on the timing but when we try to turn the engine over and we got nothing.
When you cranked over the engine ( 22.01 in the video) the drivers side top tensioner moved in and out. Why does this happen? I'm in the middle of doing this job at the moment. I did the chains , finished the job, started the engine. Some knocking noises heard. Removed the front cover and cranked over the engine. The tensioners were moving in and out ( like yours did). We thought it was caused by lack of priming the oil pump ( also replaced) . Did all the installation over again. Ran the engine. Still some noises? Any ideas?
The tensioner moves due to tension on the cams (the added tension is released in tension movement) in other words it's normal but as far as the noise I'm not sure what that would be
@@brobrohmu736 It is actually my mates car and he has been doing all the work. The engine had been badly serviced ( oil wise) and it seems that some contamination may have blocked something ?? He ran it a few times and it had noises. The car has been parked ever since.
First time doing timing chains and I didn’t realize that even tho the timing marks line up, you could still be 360 degrees out. So luckily on the right side I successfully put it into the stage two timing position to remove the secondary chain on the right side but when I tried to move to stage one, I didn’t realize that the cams were off until after I took the chains off. I just wanted to know if there was a way to fix the cam positions on the left side without affecting the right side and not damaging the motor.
Perhaps cam holding tools might assist 🙂 also chain stretch can make the flats not be in exact alignment on your cams when the crankshaft and oil pump timing marks are aligned 💋
Hello all, I am having a heck of a time locating the Harmonic balancer (crankshaft) bolt torque spec for this 3.6 engine? The only difference is my vehicle is a 2009 enclave. What does the manufacture call for?
Currently doing this job with the locking tools on the 2.8 variant of this motor. Neither the flat cams or the angled cams line up with the tool in stage 1 or 2. I am currently in stage 2. I have a consistent misfire on bank 1,3,5. Long story but everything has been tested and replaced - chain stretch seems to be the issue. if they don't line up, should I remove the chain on one bank, and then rotate the cam shaft with a wrench so that it lines up with the tool and reinstall the chains?
What you said sounds like the solution. however you said both of them don't line up in either stage so I would check for proper alignment in both stages and move the cam as you said to line things up in both stages (follow the video in each stage with timing mark indicators in line and everything will be good)
@@wildwoodtop the right bank can shafts are flat and upright but the camshaft closest to firewall is slightly out, the left bank cams are angled down but also don’t fit within tool. I’m going to right bank removal in stage tool and rotate the camshaft slightly so it aligns with the link on the new chain. Should be good right?
@@wildwoodtop yeah that seems about right. The flats are only slightly off, same for the angled ones. I was just nervous about proceeding with adjustment after the chain was off.
At 22:24 when you're spinning the engine over the three chain tensioners are moving in and out as the engine spins. Only one of mine moves (left side). Only thing different is I'm turning mine over by hand on the crank bolt. Your thoughts sir?
22:24 🤔 I do think I know what you're referring to and it has to do with the spring tension on the valves creating an area of need for relief which is notably visual in the tension guides 🙂
@@wildwoodtop Hmm! What you are saying makes perfect since. But is this telling me that there is a problem with the head. The car was running great. Just throwing a P0009 and I wanted to be proactive on the chain. What would you do at this point? Run it or try to figure this out?
Found the problem! The new tensioner on that side was faulty. I took it off for inspection and found that is was binding up (jacked) and would not go back in after releasing the pin. Easy fix installed the old one. All tensioners are free and maintaining tension in (moving in and out). Thanks for the help sir
Doing everything in stage 1 is an excellent choice as well (here's an awesome vid of that procedure) th-cam.com/video/1SC8Jy9NOJk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=MellingEngineParts
@@SheLuvsWildThat and the idea I like the engine in a relaxed state in each stage plus I could see that the flats were up on the cams on both sides so I knew it was perfect (provided you have the cam tools you'll get the same end result)
Bank 1 drivers side, bank 2 passenger side. What about the countries that drive on the other side of the road? Would a simple left and right ( sitting in the car) be better?
Hello, I am looking for some urgent help. I had the bank 1 chains on, then I connected the primary chain (bottom) everything was lined up. Then when I went to rotate to install the bank 2 chains, the crankshaft rotated to far past the oil pump dot. I then tried to rotate a half dozen times to get the motor to get all spots to the chain and spokes to all line up. Is this the proper procedure or is there another way to do this or did I mess something up?
Sounds like the engine took off on its own ? if that's the case you did not have the engine in the proper position and the cam was under stress and took off .. if this is what happened it's going to be difficult to get things lined up because this is an interference engine whereas the valves can kiss the piston and will stop the engine from moving. it's difficult to explain not being there in person, but if things are so out of whack you don't know what to do it's almost as if you're starting over with all the chains off, if that's the case I would line up the crank dots in stage 2 timing making sure cylinder number 2 piston is top dead center 4:07 then rotate the crankshafts until the flats are up on the back of the camshafts and install your first chain 6:23 (word of caution if you don't have an understanding of the mechanics of the engine it's might be best to have a friend or mechanic look at the engine Or keep reviewing this video and eventually things will come together for you)
So at first position cylinder 2 should be at the top and the cams flat right? Then when you turn the crank to the second position the cylinder 1 should be at the top and the cams set flat meaning valves closed? I say this because I'm starting from scratch with new heads and cams that lost timing with the cylinders completely.
@@cobrathewolf4357 did you try Amazon www.amazon.com/Orion-Motor-Tech-Retaining-Alignment/dp/B083PZHXKF/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2G5ZP58MR08WZ&keywords=08+pontiac+g8+engine+cam+alignment+tool&qid=1702353482&replacementKeywords=engine+cam+alignment+tool&s=automotive&sprefix=08+pontiac+g8+engine+cam+alignment+tool%2Cautomotive%2C110&sr=1-1&vehicle=2008-52-6613------------&vehicleName=2008+Pontiac+G8
Yeah its the same as long is the 3.6 engine I just got the timing chain done I órdered the timing chain kit online and i had it installed in mexico for 300 dlls Now the car runs great!
Are you implying the engine is locked up, will not rotate if the engine is free to rotate it should line up.. The whole process starts with lining up the crank dot with the oil pump dot into Stage 2 before removing any chains 0:32
By the way the engine is t locked up.. it turns freely bc I removed the spark plugs but I watched your vid maybe 5x and still can’t get it in the position needed to remove the chains… maybe I can email you pick of what I’m referring to. Thanks in advance!
@@Yahsharal864 no email please 🙂 sounds like the chain has jumped time quite a bit Or the chains have stretched so much and that's why things are not lining up. Did the engine run good before you started this process
I ran into a problem. When I was getting ready to put on my bottom chain (I have driver side chain new installed) the crank shaft is moved up to around the 3:00 position so there is 2 links passed. I’m really stuck right now I dont know what to do (I reversed my engine when I was changing out my power steering by the power steering pulley accident) please I hope someone has an answer 🙏
This by far is explained thoroughly step by step. Others say i already did this or that. Not him, just watching im getting brave to tackle 3.6 traverse. Wish me luck 😳
I have been dealing with these engines practically since they were introduced. Even though there was an issue with the quality of the chains , guides, and tensioners.
I have found out the biggest issue is with lack of maintenance. A large percentage of failures are attributed to not changing your oil regularly, low oil volume, or poor quality of oil. Simply changing your oil as required and using a good quality oil can greatly increase the life of this engine.
He is like the Bob Ross of car engines!
😲 Bob Ross 😲
I watch mechanic videos quite often this the very time I added a comment. The reason for this comment is to thank you for such a great detailed professional video. On a scale from 0 to 10 in which 10 is the highest score I want to give you a 12 simply marvelous very well detailed thank you I subscribed to channel keep up the good work.
You are welcome 👍 Thanks for the inspiring comment ✌
Eu tô super feliz assistindo seu vídeo, e consigo resolver o problema do meu carro Cadillac CTS 🙏👍
🤟 mecanicadiesely 🤟
He explains very expertly 🫡
Generalmotor 👍 Awesome!
I had the same problem today pulling the pin on the bank 1.3.5 tensioner, with the Cloyes kit. BTW, my 2011 Saab 9-5 with 140k still had the original GM timing components in it. If you looked closely at the guides “Cloyes” was imprinted in the nylon from factory.
Buick enclave. Have done it 3 times now. All new parts including phasers . Persistent P0019. Have checked the crank clock ring as well. Welcoming insight and suggestions
Way too difficult to throw out an answer when there are so many scenarios that could be causing this malfunction. Example, let's say your timing cover for some reason is not in close proximity with the cam sensor as it used to be. That in and of itself would throw a P0019
Awesome vid. Such a great teacher
Thx 👍
This is excellent, thank you!
You are welcome 👍
Thank you so much for this video 🙏 it helped me out and was real easy to understand!!
You are welcome 👍
Loved your video. Learned a lot! I have to ask, how could the chains stretch in three years??
Could not agree with you more! Stretch changes in 3 years and in under 20,000 miles. Very puzzling 🤨 I have no clue why they Stretched (Changed oil regularly)
I need help with the GM HFV6 engine, because I had to change the crankshaft, but there are 2 models where the accessory pulley key changes. I installed the new crankshaft with a different type of key and the car does not start and shows a timing error in the engine. Can anyone who knows this engine well tell me if there are any changes between the 2 crankshaft models that could be causing this problem or could it just be a mounting error at the point of the chains? thanks.
Damn thats crazy. One of my bolts on the water pump snapped while torquing. 2 are done but the others seem to wanna snap
That's ridiculous something's wrong 😲 provided you're using the torque specs specified for water pump 🙂
@ yea i torqued the tensioners but water pump bolts seem like they wanna snap. I just left them like that
Very good video
oh.. if only it was this easy
have one of these engines in my outlook. "timed" three times now.. still out of whack. dealer quoted 4 grand to do it themselves with no parts (all parts are new)
😲🤪😭
this is avery informative video I WANT TO KNOW WHY DOES THE LOWER TENSIONER CLICK EVERY 2 REVOLUTION.
That puzzled me as well but if you watch other videos there's click too
Hey how's it going I was going by your video doing my timing on a 2008 Cadillac CTS and we have gotten to the point to where you put oil on the change to get ready to turn over your motor. Can you tell me, did you have to plug anything up in order to get power to your starter to turn your engine over? We did exactly what you said on the timing but when we try to turn the engine over and we got nothing.
Yes, Ya need to reattach plug in the ECM connectors and then the starter should work
@@wildwoodtop thank you!
When you cranked over the engine ( 22.01 in the video) the drivers side top tensioner moved in and out. Why does this happen?
I'm in the middle of doing this job at the moment. I did the chains , finished the job, started the engine. Some knocking noises heard.
Removed the front cover and cranked over the engine. The tensioners were moving in and out ( like yours did). We thought it was caused by lack of priming the oil pump ( also replaced) . Did all the installation over again. Ran the engine. Still some noises? Any ideas?
The tensioner moves due to tension on the cams (the added tension is released in tension movement) in other words it's normal but as far as the noise I'm not sure what that would be
Hey so how’s the car running after that little play because I’m getting ready to put in the tensioners and I noticed the little play.
@@brobrohmu736 It is actually my mates car and he has been doing all the work. The engine had been badly serviced ( oil wise) and it seems that some contamination may have blocked something ?? He ran it a few times and it had noises. The car has been parked ever since.
First time doing timing chains and I didn’t realize that even tho the timing marks line up, you could still be 360 degrees out. So luckily on the right side I successfully put it into the stage two timing position to remove the secondary chain on the right side but when I tried to move to stage one, I didn’t realize that the cams were off until after I took the chains off. I just wanted to know if there was a way to fix the cam positions on the left side without affecting the right side and not damaging the motor.
Perhaps cam holding tools might assist 🙂 also chain stretch can make the flats not be in exact alignment on your cams when the crankshaft and oil pump timing marks are aligned 💋
Hello all, I am having a heck of a time locating the Harmonic balancer (crankshaft) bolt torque spec for this 3.6 engine? The only difference is my vehicle is a 2009 enclave. What does the manufacture call for?
I Googled with no luck for 2009 enclave 3.6 engine crankshaft harmonic balancer torque spec
Currently doing this job with the locking tools on the 2.8 variant of this motor. Neither the flat cams or the angled cams line up with the tool in stage 1 or 2. I am currently in stage 2. I have a consistent misfire on bank 1,3,5. Long story but everything has been tested and replaced - chain stretch seems to be the issue. if they don't line up, should I remove the chain on one bank, and then rotate the cam shaft with a wrench so that it lines up with the tool and reinstall the chains?
What you said sounds like the solution. however you said both of them don't line up in either stage so I would check for proper alignment in both stages and move the cam as you said to line things up in both stages (follow the video in each stage with timing mark indicators in line and everything will be good)
Note: you should only have to move the cam a tooth or two, if more something's wrong
@@wildwoodtop the right bank can shafts are flat and upright but the camshaft closest to firewall is slightly out, the left bank cams are angled down but also don’t fit within tool. I’m going to right bank removal in stage tool and rotate the camshaft slightly so it aligns with the link on the new chain. Should be good right?
@@wildwoodtop yeah that seems about right. The flats are only slightly off, same for the angled ones. I was just nervous about proceeding with adjustment after the chain was off.
At 22:24 when you're spinning the engine over the three chain tensioners are moving in and out as the engine spins. Only one of mine moves (left side). Only thing different is I'm turning mine over by hand on the crank bolt. Your thoughts sir?
22:24 🤔 I do think I know what you're referring to and it has to do with the spring tension on the valves creating an area of need for relief which is notably visual in the tension guides 🙂
@@wildwoodtop Hmm! What you are saying makes perfect since. But is this telling me that there is a problem with the head. The car was running great. Just throwing a P0009 and I wanted to be proactive on the chain. What would you do at this point? Run it or try to figure this out?
Found the problem! The new tensioner on that side was faulty. I took it off for inspection and found that is was binding up (jacked) and would not go back in after releasing the pin. Easy fix installed the old one. All tensioners are free and maintaining tension in (moving in and out). Thanks for the help sir
🤟✌🤟
Yaknow this was the best thing I did for my engine.
Would you recommend doing everything in stage 1 timing with the cam holding tools?
Doing everything in stage 1 is an excellent choice as well (here's an awesome vid of that procedure) th-cam.com/video/1SC8Jy9NOJk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=MellingEngineParts
@@wildwoodtop why didn’t you do it in stage 1, was it because you didn’t have the cam holding tools?
@@SheLuvsWildThat and the idea I like the engine in a relaxed state in each stage plus I could see that the flats were up on the cams on both sides so I knew it was perfect (provided you have the cam tools you'll get the same end result)
Excellent,.well described instructions. You must be an ex-instructor or GM tech?
Thx Dude! 👍 Nah I'm just an average Backwoods Backwards Ingenuity Shade Tree Mechanic ✌
Bank 1 drivers side, bank 2 passenger side. What about the countries that drive on the other side of the road? Would a simple left and right ( sitting in the car) be better?
Never thought about that expect 😋 Thank you ✌
Great job
I noticed the cam lobes are worn . Is that cheap metal . Even the V8 LS engines love to eat up cams.
cam lobes ate up 😲 I've never heard of such (lack of oil would definitely do it 🙂
Hello, I am looking for some urgent help. I had the bank 1 chains on, then I connected the primary chain (bottom) everything was lined up. Then when I went to rotate to install the bank 2 chains, the crankshaft rotated to far past the oil pump dot. I then tried to rotate a half dozen times to get the motor to get all spots to the chain and spokes to all line up. Is this the proper procedure or is there another way to do this or did I mess something up?
Sounds like the engine took off on its own ? if that's the case you did not have the engine in the proper position and the cam was under stress and took off .. if this is what happened it's going to be difficult to get things lined up because this is an interference engine whereas the valves can kiss the piston and will stop the engine from moving. it's difficult to explain not being there in person, but if things are so out of whack you don't know what to do it's almost as if you're starting over with all the chains off, if that's the case I would line up the crank dots in stage 2 timing making sure cylinder number 2 piston is top dead center 4:07 then rotate the crankshafts until the flats are up on the back of the camshafts and install your first chain 6:23 (word of caution if you don't have an understanding of the mechanics of the engine it's might be best to have a friend or mechanic look at the engine Or keep reviewing this video and eventually things will come together for you)
So at first position cylinder 2 should be at the top and the cams flat right? Then when you turn the crank to the second position the cylinder 1 should be at the top and the cams set flat meaning valves closed? I say this because I'm starting from scratch with new heads and cams that lost timing with the cylinders completely.
That's correct (I use the term "Stage 2" (4:10) Referencing "First position" as you stated
@@wildwoodtop it worked out great
Is Cloyes reliable...? Quality is same as OE..?
I'm not a Chloe's spokesperson but the majority of chain replacement videos here on TH-cam are using Cloyes timing chain kits
Very nice video
Thx 🙂
What state are you in TH-cam guy?
Currently residing in Maryland
Im trying to do the timing on the drivers side of my 08 pontiac g8 abd i cant get one if my cams to go TDC how do i fix that?
Also where can I find the tool to make sure the cams are TDC both sides.
@@cobrathewolf4357 did you try Amazon www.amazon.com/Orion-Motor-Tech-Retaining-Alignment/dp/B083PZHXKF/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2G5ZP58MR08WZ&keywords=08+pontiac+g8+engine+cam+alignment+tool&qid=1702353482&replacementKeywords=engine+cam+alignment+tool&s=automotive&sprefix=08+pontiac+g8+engine+cam+alignment+tool%2Cautomotive%2C110&sr=1-1&vehicle=2008-52-6613------------&vehicleName=2008+Pontiac+G8
I'm not familiar with 08 pontiac g8 engine cam alignment but if it looks the same as this vid follow same procedure. Hope this helped
This should help 👍 th-cam.com/video/fzTj7sWRZcs/w-d-xo.html
@@wildwoodtopI was hoping to find one in a store dont exactly have the time to wait for it to ship lol
Is this the LY7 engine? My 09 cadillac cts4 3.6 needs this job done.
My 08 CTS is the direct injection version so I'm assuming it's a LLT
@@wildwoodtop thanks for the reply. Is your vehicle awd?
Nah, RWD
Yeah its the same as long is the 3.6 engine
I just got the timing chain done
I órdered the timing chain kit online and i had it installed in mexico for 300 dlls
Now the car runs great!
That's Awesome! 🤟
You need better visitors, I train them to bring beer.
😆 Thomas 🤟
HATE THE UNRELIABLITY OF THIS ENGINE OVER THE LONG TERM!!!!!!
What else plays up in them? Im wondering if the one im dealing with is worth fixing
Why do the guide tap like that
I know right 😲 but once they get oil pressure they stop 🤟
I can’t line up the crank to the 1 cycle I need help
Are you implying the engine is locked up, will not rotate if the engine is free to rotate it should line up.. The whole process starts with lining up the crank dot with the oil pump dot into Stage 2 before removing any chains 0:32
Yes I’m trying to line it up but the cam marks in the back are flat and the crank dot is at 3oclock smh
Either in bank 1 or bank 2 when the dot on crank it’s not flat or when dot on it’s not flat… I think I said that twice but I hope you understand
By the way the engine is t locked up.. it turns freely bc I removed the spark plugs but I watched your vid maybe 5x and still can’t get it in the position needed to remove the chains… maybe I can email you pick of what I’m referring to. Thanks in advance!
@@Yahsharal864 no email please 🙂 sounds like the chain has jumped time quite a bit Or the chains have stretched so much and that's why things are not lining up. Did the engine run good before you started this process
look at me 😂
😲 Milky Way 😲
❤❤❤٠٠٠٠❤❤❤❤
user👍yn7hb🤟5po💋2f
❤@@wildwoodtop
Ok I'm waiting for ya
I ran into a problem. When I was getting ready to put on my bottom chain (I have driver side chain new installed) the crank shaft is moved up to around the 3:00 position so there is 2 links passed. I’m really stuck right now I dont know what to do (I reversed my engine when I was changing out my power steering by the power steering pulley accident) please I hope someone has an answer 🙏
Can’t find any help anywhere
Hope someone can help asap 🙏
So my passenger side piston 1 is top dead center also so I don’t know if my crank is out of time or the phasers…
I started from the cam flats instead of the dot on the crank
My piston 1 is top dead center on passenger side and also I started from the cam flats instead of the crank dots