I always start here when I am looking to do work on my Explorer for all these little safety tips that others don't seem to feel are necessary. Thank you for these videos.
The problem with diagnosing faults is the ECM will adjust Injector fuel input on O2 sensor data. Thus if the Pressure Sensor is Over estimating the rail Pressure then less fuel gets injected creating a lean burn. BUT The 02 sensor picks up lean, ECM increases fuel injection to compensate the lean condition. And your Long Term Fuel Trims rise, the car runs normally as the defficiency in fuel input has been quietly rectified. The Only clue you get is high LTFT with no apparent reason. Your mileage doesn't change as you are not using more fuel, just an adjustment to input the correct amount of fuel. And the LTFT will likely be similar across all engine loads, whereas vacuum leaks Trims are worse at low loads and get better. Even if the fuel regulator on a high pressure pump is faulty, the rail pressure sensors feedback to the ECM increases the regulator operation to get the pressure up, so you are unaware unless the regulator goes really bad and can't keep up. So if you have high LTFT across all engine loads, the car runs normally, the MAP sensor is fine, then the fuel rail pressure sensor is the likely problem. Now if you have to pay the cost of removing the intake manifold to get at the sensor to test pressure test it...well you may as well put a new one in while you are there...and maybe test the injectors as well. Especially if your car has done a lot of miles.
I’m sitting in the dealer right now watching this video. I was curious about this thing and how to change it. They just charged me $350 to change it. I actually watched them change it. It was a new girl and she did it less than 10 mins! Ugh! I could have done it. This video was very helpful.
Well I had a similar problem to yourself. I went and bought the part. When my mechanic went to change it he told me the part that's all on looks quite new basically he made the call without even checking. In the end he noticed there was alot of worn out wiring that he basically taped up cleaned out the RD valves charged me $70 at first I thought it cost me so much more. Maybe I paid him $20 more but to be honest I got a refund on the unwanted part so far so good.
To fix: "Idles worse when warmed up." 2 problems on my ZX3. 1. Collapsed PCV line at idle. 2. Fuel rail pressure sensor diaphragm was leaking gas INTERNALLY. No visible leaks outside. It's internal. This extra gas was flooding the car at idle. I replaced the coil, plugs and wires too but that problem remained even after the vacuum line PVC line was replaced. The fuel rail pressure sensor leaking internally was it for sure because it leaks gas into the intake manifold via the vacuum line attached to it. Thusly, flooding the car at idle when warm with too much gas. Rough idle when warm is now fixed!! No more rough idle. That pressure sensor controls the fuel pumps speed. If faulty, you get too much fuel pressure AND gas leaking through the diaphragm. Car runs rough at idle and/ or dies and because its too rich.
Gidday Brian. After the repair; is the process of Clearing the PCM's Memory" a necessity. There was no mention of post-repair. Many thanks mate - you provide an invaluable service to the average Joe.
I so much appreciate your efforts in providing professional information to the many of us who , although we have good mechanical skills, would never take on such a "previously" difficult / impossible task. With your info and links, I purchased a NEW Bosch part on line for $70 (Canadian), purchased a code reader for $80.00 (Can), and replaced the fuel sensor in less than 30 minutes start to finish. Error cleared. When, will my For* dealership realize that an estimate of $400 part + diag fees + install ... is simply unwarranted. I didn't want to purchase the DEALERSHIP, I just wanted to clear the CheckEngine light. Thank you very much and keep up the great videos.
Thanks for the video just had to replace my fuel rail pressure sensor for my 2005 Ford Focus after the engine light came on and detected that my sensor was faulty. This video worked and saved me from going to a mechanic. Great and easy steps and I had my new sensor installed in a few minutes. My car now runs so much better than before.
Very professional video, thanks for posting. When you broke the vacuum by removing the sensor starting at 4:31, fuel poured out the open fuel line on the upper right. I suppose most wouldn't have that line apart. It would have been nice to see how you proved the sensor was bad -- diagnostics will always be the weakest point for those of us who learn here on the net.
Do you have an issue with buying faulty parts these days? I have installed two of these in a couple weeks both were supposed to be OEM from ford for my 4.6l. Had a code p0193, now I am having a PO182 which is related to the same part…wondering if counterfeit parts may be at play…maybe I’m being paranoid.
I can’t say I’m thankful I am that you made this video. Watched another video and changed my fuel rail sensor.. when I started it fuel was leaking like crazy and I had no idea what to do. Watched your vid and just loosened the screw to let the pressure out and my car is running again (was stuck in a win Dixie parking lot of two days). Cheers mate and thanks so much m!
Excellent video. I just changed the fuel rail pressure sensor on my Mercury Monterey minivan. Quick fix. Keep the videos coming, I have used your channel several times to fix my vehicle. You have saved my bacon more than once.
Hey Great video, can these sensor and sensors in general randomly work (intermittently) ? my ford seemed to work after a shop replaced a fuel pump and and fuel pump module 2006 e150. and then 2 days later I lost power again and stalled. and stayed in that mode until I was towed home. Then it seemed to work again. and a day later lost power again. Also would one of these sensors prevent me from starting it?
Mechanic tested over three days and $900 dollars later. I had placed sand bags over rear axel in trunk. That weight caused pressure on wiring that caused P0191 code. Go figure. Moved sand bags off wiring and it is fixed!
Did anyone noticed that was massive gasoline leak from fuel rail end, you disconnected fuel intake to rail and that's why were was no pressure in rail. But still good vid thanks.
Thank you for the great video! I noticed that it was a 4 wire sensor, every piezo sensor that I have seen on all makes is a 3 pin. VRef, ground, and signal. Is the 4th wire a Fuel temp signal line? The reason I ask is because the sensor probe looks just like a thermistor. Thank you FordTechMakuloco
Went to the junkyard U-Pull it and looked for an Escape to get this part part for mine but could not find then come to find out, it was used on nearly all newer Fords!! I felt stupid walking all over that yard for an Escape when any Ford would have had it haha Amazon wants only $18.99 but AutoZone wants $119! Crazy!
Here is a lesson people can learn by my mistake. I purchased one from ebay for 23.00 which is 1/3 of the price and we pulled mainfold off ect and was alot of work to get to this part in a 4.0. Anyways less then a week it failed and disaster struck with the fuel being sucked up threw FPS hose to manifold to each piston or valves so when I tried to start fuel was shooting out the muffler and the smell of gas so I kepted cranking not knowing what is going on until the engine stop cranking and I knew something was damaged probably bent valves. I had it towed home we took all apart again and when we pulled manifold off gallons of fuel came out the valves were filled over the top pulled the plugs and fuel was coming out of 3 of them, it was a disaster but I finally got it all dried out and purchased one from local auto parts place for 115 and installed so far after a few weeks nothing but was a valuable lesson that cheaper part costed me 80 more for another part oil,plugs at 50 and labor I paid out was 200 to a friend so that was a bargin, was it worth it, no way never again..
Yes it was a nightmare and we needed the part that day so we went to Pepboys and they are 115 and was a lesson for sure not that a namebrand part would not fail but the odds on that are slim versus ebay, you just do not know what your really getting and I have seen this part for 15.
Great video man typically I have to look at three or four other videos to have an idea of what it is that needs to be done but that was not the case here you gave a thorough explanation very clear very well done
Also check the driver module in the trunk. I had a 2010 Mustang that produced a P0191 code so I changed the FRP. No luck. Then checked driver module and found it under water because the drain troughs were clogged up and the spare tire well was full of water.
2005 Montego Other than the fuel rail pressure sensor code PO191 going off numerous times and changing the sensor 7x in 3years (2018-2021) I ended up with car eventually going into safe mode.2019-2020 several times. Eventually it no longer reported codes it just had no power and no acceleration. I changed ECM with a new one with 2 keys from flagship 1 as my key would lose sync many times needing battery disconnected for 10min. Losing ECM link. Was going to change main catalytic converters but when I cut down the rear converter it was broken gravel on the 1st disc and appeared clogged. After the ECM and CAT change it's running great. Power good. No key problems. Was able to sync 1 of my old 2 keys. 81.262 miles Check rear cat. Replaced with WALKER 93237 ULTRA CAT using the forward fitting from the old cat cut flush.
I'm just really curious about the gas that was coming out to the right, when you pulled the sensor fuel poured out of the end of the fuel rail, was it pose to do that???
Hey Brian. Have looked at all your 5.4 videos. Saved me a lot. From ball joints to upper control arms to front diff and rear fluid services. Bought the aftermarket, plugged it in, and it stumbles and missed so bad. How do I diagnose to make sure this is the actual problem before buying OEM?
2007 ford explorer fuel rail sensor, replaced twice, replaced connector, still having issues with trouble code P0193, and need further insite to other remedy to resolve this issue. my code reader when vehical is operating the pressure stays constant and does not flutuate at all at 72.?? PSI throughout idle and increased engine throttle. any suggestions on what else should be evaluated for correct function.
Very well explained, good detail,, well done. I've got mine ordered but from the link you posted below, but it wasn't near as expensive, like $60, which was cheaper than you thought it was, and it said Motorcraft. Thanks for posting, JohnG
Ok , let me get this straight. You say it’s ok to leave the negative battery terminal connected while working on a pressurized fuel rail that you did not depressurize before opening? 🔥 🔥
Thanks so much for the great tutorial. I happen to own one of the vehicles where the FRPS is hidden under the manifold (2007 Explorer 4.0L) so I need to get to it before I can replace it. I would NOT call myself a backyard mechanic - I'm a mom on a limited budget. I have a Haynes manual but it is obviously written for those with more automotive knowledge than I have. Do you know of any tutorials on how to remove the manifold cover? I need pics or a video because I don't know (yet) what most of the components are. Any references would be GREATLY appreciated!
Great video. My 2006 Mustang GT just showed this code as won’t start after being away for last 6 months. Could this be why cranking and no start. Only code that came up and was starting fine 6 months ago. Been on battery tender for full 6 months and battery all good.
Great video. I have a 2000 ford focus sohc, it seems to have low fuel pressure at idle, could it be a faulty fuel pressure sensor? It runs good when driving, rpm are low at idle and at red lights. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Great video. Could you please explain how to test this sensor? My old ford transit is not showing any codes and I simply don't know how to determine if this part is working fine.
I just replaced the FPS on my 2006 mustang but when I tried to accelerate its doesn't go as fast as before. I dont know if I did something or didnt do it correctly. Any thoughts?
Hi , my name is Kimberly and I watched your video, I had 3 computers on my 2007 F150 4wd 5.4 liter , they all said the same thing the fuel pressure sensor. So I go buy 1 and put on it , I done everything you said and it will crank and go dead . What else can I look for? I need help. Single mom
On my 2008 escape 3.0, I have a P0191 code and the car shuts off randomly and has poor acceleration. Could this sensor cause these symtoms or should I look into the pump? Love your videos by the way Thanks
Pls what did you do, have the same issue with mine ford Escape 2007 It does seem to want to accelerate. Change fuel pump, plugs and flushed the nozzles. I'm so confused
Did you use dielectric grease on both the terminal and the o-ring, or can you use Vaseline on the o-ring? and can you use a sensor from a Junked car to replace a damaged sensor?
Help please, I just bought a Motorcraft sensor for 2008 Ford Explorer number, (CM-5229) it’s a 4.0 engine. The first one I took out was a Bosch , and the second one I bought was a Bosch also. I’m just comparing the Motorcraft (I just bought)with the reading on the 1st bosch and I noticed, that the Bosch has the same numbers and the Ford logo and they’re made in Germany. So what’s the difference??
I understand to put a towel under and over the fuel pressure sensor so you can protect yourself from high pressure gas but what is leaking in the back of the fuel rail?. Do we need a towel to catch the gas leaking in the back of the fuel? Lol Makuloco
What was the reason for changing the sensor? Question for you ; I have an 05 Escape with a 2.3L engine that has excessive fuel in the combustion chamber and exiting out the exhaust. I have codes P0183 and P0193 ... any help would be appreciated.
Alright so I start up my 11 CVPI and I have a dead fuel gauge. The Gas light is on, the tank shows empty and at first I assume someone stole my gas because yesterday night I had 3/4 of a tank. I turn off the car after I warm it up, let it sit and restart the engine to find a check engine light but my fuel gauge functions normally. The car runs fine and now I assume it is the fuel sending unit. Any thoughts gentlemen ?
On my 98 Ex v6 4.0 SOHC i hooked up my scanner to FORSCAN and i'm getting a 0psi reading even when the car is on. Starts up every single time the only issue is that i've been stalling at intersections and red lights a lot more. A rolling idle. No codes. New PCV valve,cleaned MAF/Throttle, new IAC. I'm hoping my stalling is something having to do with the fuel delivery and the 0psi reading on fuel pressure might be the culprit. Am i on the right track or does this sound more like a vacuum leak?
I tried that move and while the car was fine for a little while, it started acting up again and the code had come back. I guess I have to purchase the more expensive version like he said if I want the repair to last longer.
Good morning. I appreciate your videos. I have a crank no start issue on my 2006 Ford Expedition. I have changed the Fuel Pump and by passed the Fuel pump relay, when I noticed that the Fuel Pump wasn't getting power. The truck ran for about 2 weeks, now I have the same issue. Both the mechanic and I are completely confused as to what is the issue. Could it be the Fuel Rail Sensor causing this issue or the FUEL PUMP DRIVER MODULE? We are stuck.
@@daniloescobar3555 I traded in the truck. It was too much headache. But, if you buy parts, buy OEM ONLY! There's a relay mouthed on the back that rusted out over time. Change that, and that should solve the issue. I can't remember what it was called, but I changed that. If you look on the driver side rear frame you will see the part mounted on the frame.
Pls what did you do, have the same issue with mine ford Escape 2007 It doesn't seem to want to accelerate. Change fuel pump, plugs and flushed the nozzles. I'm so confused
@@daniloescobar3555 Pls what did you do, have the same issue with mine ford Escape 2007 It doesn't seem to want to accelerate. Change fuel pump, plugs and flushed the nozzles. I'm so confused
im currently in school and was wondering if port injection systems use a fuel rail.....? i know direct injection engines do, since port injection is injected into the intake thought it might be a diffrent set up?
as i was running a diagnostic on my 2008 ford escape i noticed engine load is at 30% , is that due to a bearing on a pulley driven part starting to seize?
I have a 2009 F150 4.6 liter. I'm having a power loss issue. I had it to a mechanic he changed the fuel filter and it didn't make a difference. He put it on his scanner and no codes are showing. The truck runs fine at start up seems to take the fuel no problem. The problem is when the engine has a load on it. If you step on the pedal it's like nothing is there. I'm going to make an appointment at the dealer. Is there anything you can suggest that may be the problem?
My 07 F150 quit running after 1 mile last week cutting out like fuel starvation with check engine light coming on. After the rollback trip back home pulled codes and came up with misfire cyl 5 and primary circuit in that cyl coil. Changed, no start. Leaned toward the fuel side and checked fuel pump driver. Rotted out as usual. Changed. Crank no start. Undid fuel line on rail and energized pump. Very little output. Changed out fuel pump. Crank no start. Another code po193. Have one ordered but cleared and still crank no start. Does it sound like the fuel pressure sensor? Go out going down the road? Act lime fuel starvation?
@@chidiuche754 feel like a dumbass but I had it hauled to dealer and come to find out it was the number 33 fuse blown. Now the fuses were the first thing I checked. The bad coil did blow the fuse but it blew in a way I couldn't see it, like down in the molded plastic. I missed it. They put a new one in and fired right up. Lot of work for nothing. Lesson learned. Replace fuses even if it doesn't look blown
What are the symptoms of a failed sensor. I’ve been fighting lean bank codes and very low power on a 2005 3v 6.8. When it runs horrible I can unplug the sensor and it runs good again. Can I leave it unplugged till I get the new sensor?
Had a lot of things done to my truck now one of the things that that's coming up is the fuel pressure sensor. I don't want to keep spending money on the truck is there a way to clean the sensor for testing to see if that's the problem?
Hi Have a 2005 e 150 Ford Van and got this code P0101-FF today and it said fuel rail sensor.. Also driver side front Cylinder sometimes get coolant in the spark plug area and had to replace the coil pack several months back. Second time.. Not sure where liquid in seeping in from.. Any thoughts? Thank you in advance...
My 03 mustang gt just died in the driveway, code was P0190 what do you think pressure sensor or fuel pump? also amazon does not have this motorcraft part for my car
Hello. great video. I need help with something. I have a 96 ford explorer with a no start. Sometimes .maybe once or twice a week in have to use starter fuel to start the truck. and then it will run. but in a day or two am back with useing the starter fuel .now it seems to be getting harder to start with the starter fuel. I would love to have your input on it. thanks.
Just bought a 2008 Ford E 250 van that was sitting for a long time . Replaced the battery and it cranks but no start . Diag. scan shows P0191. Is this the only fix for this code ?
I always start here when I am looking to do work on my Explorer for all these little safety tips that others don't seem to feel are necessary. Thank you for these videos.
The problem with diagnosing faults is the ECM will adjust Injector fuel input on O2 sensor data. Thus if the Pressure Sensor is Over estimating the rail Pressure then less fuel gets injected creating a lean burn. BUT The 02 sensor picks up lean, ECM increases fuel injection to compensate the lean condition. And your Long Term Fuel Trims rise, the car runs normally as the defficiency in fuel input has been quietly rectified. The Only clue you get is high LTFT with no apparent reason. Your mileage doesn't change as you are not using more fuel, just an adjustment to input the correct amount of fuel. And the LTFT will likely be similar across all engine loads, whereas vacuum leaks Trims are worse at low loads and get better. Even if the fuel regulator on a high pressure pump is faulty, the rail pressure sensors feedback to the ECM increases the regulator operation to get the pressure up, so you are unaware unless the regulator goes really bad and can't keep up. So if you have high LTFT across all engine loads, the car runs normally, the MAP sensor is fine, then the fuel rail pressure sensor is the likely problem. Now if you have to pay the cost of removing the intake manifold to get at the sensor to test pressure test it...well you may as well put a new one in while you are there...and maybe test the injectors as well. Especially if your car has done a lot of miles.
👍🏾
I’m sitting in the dealer right now watching this video. I was curious about this thing and how to change it. They just charged me $350 to change it. I actually watched them change it. It was a new girl and she did it less than 10 mins! Ugh! I could have done it. This video was very helpful.
Wtf
Abdul Mumin yeah. I was so ticked off. That’s was a lot of money. I could have done it myself. :(
Well I had a similar problem to yourself. I went and bought the part. When my mechanic went to change it he told me the part that's all on looks quite new basically he made the call without even checking. In the end he noticed there was alot of worn out wiring that he basically taped up cleaned out the RD valves charged me $70 at first I thought it cost me so much more. Maybe I paid him $20 more but to be honest I got a refund on the unwanted part so far so good.
🤣😂🤦🏻♂️
Thats a good mechanic@@abdulmumin6251
My mother in law and I thank you, so simple. Great straight for clear speaking well lit video. Saved over $300.00 with actual original equipment!
To fix: "Idles worse when warmed up."
2 problems on my ZX3. 1. Collapsed PCV line at idle. 2. Fuel rail pressure sensor diaphragm was leaking gas INTERNALLY. No visible leaks outside. It's internal. This extra gas
was flooding the car at idle. I replaced the coil, plugs and wires too but that problem remained even after the vacuum line PVC line was replaced. The fuel rail pressure sensor leaking internally was it for sure because it leaks gas into the intake manifold via the vacuum line attached to it. Thusly, flooding the car at idle when warm with too much gas. Rough idle when warm is now fixed!! No more rough idle. That pressure sensor controls the fuel pumps speed. If faulty, you get too much fuel pressure AND gas leaking through the diaphragm. Car runs rough at idle and/ or dies and because its too rich.
What kind of fuel pressure were you getting? I'm getting 65psi on my scan tool.
@@macknumber9 That's what I read too.
Hey man, 5yrs later this video helped me out! Thank you!
Gidday Brian. After the repair; is the process of Clearing the PCM's Memory" a necessity. There was no mention of post-repair. Many thanks mate - you provide an invaluable service to the average Joe.
I so much appreciate your efforts in providing professional information to the many of us who , although we have good mechanical skills, would never take on such a "previously" difficult / impossible task. With your info and links, I purchased a NEW Bosch part on line for $70 (Canadian), purchased a code reader for $80.00 (Can), and replaced the fuel sensor in less than 30 minutes start to finish. Error cleared. When, will my For* dealership realize that an estimate of $400 part + diag fees + install ... is simply unwarranted. I didn't want to purchase the DEALERSHIP, I just wanted to clear the CheckEngine light. Thank you very much and keep up the great videos.
Thanks for the video just had to replace my fuel rail pressure sensor for my 2005 Ford Focus after the engine light came on and detected that my sensor was faulty. This video worked and saved me from going to a mechanic. Great and easy steps and I had my new sensor installed in a few minutes. My car now runs so much better than before.
I purchased the sensor yesterday for $8.59! They emailed me this morning saying they made a mistake and canceled my order haha
Anybody else just scroll through the comments to see which ones Brian comments on?? Any extra info from Brian is golden..lol
Very professional video, thanks for posting. When you broke the vacuum by removing the sensor starting at 4:31, fuel poured out the open fuel line on the upper right. I suppose most wouldn't have that line apart. It would have been nice to see how you proved the sensor was bad -- diagnostics will always be the weakest point for those of us who learn here on the net.
I have a whole video on the diagnostics for this this sensor.
th-cam.com/video/r4u67xjfFWY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks!
spelunkerlllll
FordTechMakuloco
Do you have an issue with buying faulty parts these days? I have installed two of these in a couple weeks both were supposed to be OEM from ford for my 4.6l. Had a code p0193, now I am having a PO182 which is related to the same part…wondering if counterfeit parts may be at play…maybe I’m being paranoid.
I'm getting p0182, did you find a fix for this??
I can’t say I’m thankful I am that you made this video. Watched another video and changed my fuel rail sensor.. when I started it fuel was leaking like crazy and I had no idea what to do. Watched your vid and just loosened the screw to let the pressure out and my car is running again (was stuck in a win Dixie parking lot of two days). Cheers mate and thanks so much m!
Excellent video. I just changed the fuel rail pressure sensor on my Mercury Monterey minivan. Quick fix. Keep the videos coming, I have used your channel several times to fix my vehicle. You have saved my bacon more than once.
Hey Great video, can these sensor and sensors in general randomly work (intermittently) ? my ford seemed to work after a shop replaced a fuel pump and and fuel pump module 2006 e150. and then 2 days later I lost power again and stalled. and stayed in that mode until I was towed home. Then it seemed to work again. and a day later lost power again. Also would one of these sensors prevent me from starting it?
Mechanic tested over three days and $900 dollars later. I had placed sand bags over rear axel in trunk. That weight caused pressure on wiring that caused P0191 code. Go figure. Moved sand bags off wiring and it is fixed!
Ford wants 1400, to do a fuel rail sensor ,bs
Thank you for this video. I like your methods. I can see you have done this many times. Much Thanks! Reno, NV
You are my favorite Ford tech. in the world. You made me love my Fords!
Did anyone noticed that was massive gasoline leak from fuel rail end, you disconnected fuel intake to rail and that's why were was no pressure in rail. But still good vid thanks.
+VILKAS yes the fuel line was disconnected as part of a much bigger repair on this vehicle.
ok now everything is clear :)
I do not understand your reply, I saw the dripping on the right. Explain how when I replace this part I do not get this leakage everywhere. Thanks!
@@FordTechMakuloco I have a question, how to remove a failsafe engine mode light after the part was put in but code still on? Please, thanks
@@gladysesther6925 Fella you need to clear the KAM from the PCM
I knew I saw something leaking over there! Anyway man, Love the videos. Super easy to understand. I and everyone else appreciates it. Keep rolling!
Thank you for the great video!
I noticed that it was a 4 wire sensor, every piezo sensor that I have seen on all makes is a 3 pin. VRef, ground, and signal. Is the 4th wire a Fuel temp signal line?
The reason I ask is because the sensor probe looks just like a thermistor. Thank you FordTechMakuloco
Any suggestions for a P0193? I replaced the sensor and fuel module, and it's still faulty.
Went to the junkyard U-Pull it and looked for an Escape to get this part part for mine but could not find then come to find out, it was used on nearly all newer Fords!! I felt stupid walking all over that yard for an Escape when any Ford would have had it haha Amazon wants only $18.99 but AutoZone wants $119! Crazy!
Here is a lesson people can learn by my mistake. I purchased one from ebay for 23.00 which is 1/3 of the price and we pulled mainfold off ect and was alot of work to get to this part in a 4.0. Anyways less then a week it failed and disaster struck with the fuel being sucked up threw FPS hose to manifold to each piston or valves so when I tried to start fuel was shooting out the muffler and the smell of gas so I kepted cranking not knowing what is going on until the engine stop cranking and I knew something was damaged probably bent valves. I had it towed home we took all apart again and when we pulled manifold off gallons of fuel came out the valves were filled over the top pulled the plugs and fuel was coming out of 3 of them, it was a disaster but I finally got it all dried out and purchased one from local auto parts place for 115 and installed so far after a few weeks nothing but was a valuable lesson that cheaper part costed me 80 more for another part oil,plugs at 50 and labor I paid out was 200 to a friend so that was a bargin, was it worth it, no way never again..
Wow that's bad! That is why I link to the Ford part on amazon they are only like $55 instead of over $100.
Yes it was a nightmare and we needed the part that day so we went to Pepboys and they are 115 and was a lesson for sure not that a namebrand part would not fail but the odds on that are slim versus ebay, you just do not know what your really getting and I have seen this part for 15.
Great video man typically I have to look at three or four other videos to have an idea of what it is that needs to be done but that was not the case here you gave a thorough explanation very clear very well done
Also check the driver module in the trunk. I had a 2010 Mustang that produced a P0191 code so I changed the FRP. No luck. Then checked driver module and found it under water because the drain troughs were clogged up and the spare tire well was full of water.
2005 Montego
Other than the fuel rail pressure sensor code PO191 going off numerous times and changing the sensor 7x in 3years (2018-2021) I ended up with car eventually going into safe mode.2019-2020 several times. Eventually it no longer reported codes it just had no power and no acceleration.
I changed ECM with a new one with 2 keys from flagship 1 as my key would lose sync many times needing battery disconnected for 10min. Losing ECM link.
Was going to change main catalytic converters but when I cut down the rear converter it was broken gravel on the 1st disc and appeared clogged.
After the ECM and CAT change it's running great. Power good.
No key problems. Was able to sync 1 of my old 2 keys.
81.262 miles
Check rear cat. Replaced with WALKER 93237 ULTRA CAT using the forward fitting from the old cat cut flush.
I'm just really curious about the gas that was coming out to the right, when you pulled the sensor fuel poured out of the end of the fuel rail, was it pose to do that???
Yes as this sensor replacement was part a much larger repair.
Hey Brian. Have looked at all your 5.4 videos. Saved me a lot. From ball joints to upper control arms to front diff and rear fluid services. Bought the aftermarket, plugged it in, and it stumbles and missed so bad. How do I diagnose to make sure this is the actual problem before buying OEM?
get P0193 Code: Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor “A” Circuit High about every 250 miles after reset, do you think part is defected? thanks.
Thanks for the clear instructions, did everything as instructed in the video, and now my car is running like it's normal self again.
how was it running before
This guy is the best
He explained everything
As always thanks
Thank you very much. Your explanation is so clear easy to follow. I was able to fix my truck without any complication.
What happen is still the same no star
I've seen GDI engines with over 500 PSI fuel pressure. Good safety advice in this video Brian
+Ozzstar
I have experienced GDI fuel pressures over 4000 PSI running and over 1200 PSI residual pressure with key off.
Hi, what is steps on resetting a engine code po193 with ya301 scanner? gas not leaking
2007 ford explorer fuel rail sensor, replaced twice, replaced connector, still having issues with trouble code P0193, and need further insite to other remedy to resolve this issue. my code reader when vehical is operating the pressure stays constant and does not flutuate at all at 72.?? PSI throughout idle and increased engine throttle. any suggestions on what else should be evaluated for correct function.
Thank you! Trying to fix myself and have 0 knowledge. Thank you for all the extra tips and tricks.
Very well explained, good detail,, well done. I've got mine ordered but from the link you posted below, but it wasn't near as expensive, like $60, which was cheaper than you thought it was, and it said Motorcraft. Thanks for posting, JohnG
What size socket to use???
Ok , let me get this straight. You say it’s ok to leave the negative battery terminal connected while working on a pressurized fuel rail that you did not depressurize before opening?
🔥 🔥
yes
Thanks so much for the great tutorial. I happen to own one of the vehicles where the FRPS is hidden under the manifold (2007 Explorer 4.0L) so I need to get to it before I can replace it. I would NOT call myself a backyard mechanic - I'm a mom on a limited budget. I have a Haynes manual but it is obviously written for those with more automotive knowledge than I have. Do you know of any tutorials on how to remove the manifold cover? I need pics or a video because I don't know (yet) what most of the components are. Any references would be GREATLY appreciated!
Awesome video man! Very in-depth
I wished you had a video on a 04 explorer fuel rail sensor. you make a great instructor
Great video. My 2006 Mustang GT just showed this code as won’t start after being away for last 6 months. Could this be why cranking and no start. Only code that came up and was starting fine 6 months ago. Been on battery tender for full 6 months and battery all good.
Great video. I have a 2000 ford focus sohc, it seems to have low fuel pressure at idle, could it be a faulty fuel pressure sensor? It runs good when driving, rpm are low at idle and at red lights. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks for all your help and take the time to make videos ....
Great video. Could you please explain how to test this sensor? My old ford transit is not showing any codes and I simply don't know how to determine if this part is working fine.
Late reply, but it would throw a code almost certainly if it was not working
I just replaced the FPS on my 2006 mustang but when I tried to accelerate its doesn't go as fast as before. I dont know if I did something or didnt do it correctly. Any thoughts?
Hi , my name is Kimberly and I watched your video, I had 3 computers on my 2007 F150 4wd 5.4 liter , they all said the same thing the fuel pressure sensor. So I go buy 1 and put on it , I done everything you said and it will crank and go dead . What else can I look for? I need help. Single mom
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Too little info. Hopefully ya figured it out.
Post a pic and twitch a lil bit and you will have all kinds of help we mechanics are stupid like that.
Did you fix your issue..?? What was it .?
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to put it together.
Keep up the good work bud. Excellent teaching!!!
On my 2008 escape 3.0, I have a P0191 code and the car shuts off randomly and has poor acceleration. Could this sensor cause these symtoms or should I look into the pump?
Love your videos by the way
Thanks
Pls what did you do, have the same issue with mine ford Escape 2007
It does seem to want to accelerate. Change fuel pump, plugs and flushed the nozzles. I'm so confused
Did you use dielectric grease on both the terminal and the o-ring, or can you use Vaseline on the o-ring? and can you use a sensor from a Junked car to replace a damaged sensor?
THANK YOU.......For making these videos and helping the avg Joe with a toolbox at least try to save some money here and there..
Help please, I just bought a Motorcraft sensor for 2008 Ford Explorer number, (CM-5229) it’s a 4.0 engine. The first one I took out was a Bosch , and the second one I bought was a Bosch also. I’m just comparing the Motorcraft (I just bought)with the reading on the 1st bosch and I noticed, that the Bosch has the same numbers and the Ford logo and they’re made in Germany. So what’s the difference??
I understand to put a towel under and over the fuel pressure sensor so you can protect yourself from high pressure gas but what is leaking in the back of the fuel rail?. Do we need a towel to catch the gas leaking in the back of the fuel? Lol Makuloco
Is there a special tool or way to remove the circlips holding the fuel injectors to the fuel rail? I am really struggling
What was the reason for changing the sensor?
Question for you ;
I have an 05 Escape with a 2.3L engine that has excessive fuel in the combustion chamber and exiting out the exhaust.
I have codes P0183 and P0193 ... any help would be appreciated.
I have a p0191 and p0190. Is that the same semsor
Thank you very much, I was able to fix my Dad's truck with your video.
Got that same exact thing in your hand from rock auto for 23 bucks always always rock auto
Way to get to the point
Well done
I've been looking at parts online. Is the "fuel rail" pressure sensor the same as "fuel injector" pressure sensor? For an 06 Five Hundred thx!
yes
Alright so I start up my 11 CVPI and I have a dead fuel gauge. The Gas light is on, the tank shows empty and at first I assume someone stole my gas because yesterday night I had 3/4 of a tank. I turn off the car after I warm it up, let it sit and restart the engine to find a check engine light but my fuel gauge functions normally. The car runs fine and now I assume it is the fuel sending unit. Any thoughts gentlemen ?
Thanks for the lesson; it was very well done.
FordTechMakuloco.
I have a P0087 fault on my 2012 Focus 2.0L GDI. fuel line pressure is 4 bar but the car still limps. Could it be this sensor?
Awesome video. Just fixed my 2007 F150.
Very clear and concise information. Kudos also for the safety tips.
Good video but why was fuel leaking on the right side of the fuel rail?
It was removed for a bias test.
You noticed that too
Do you have a video on how to change the fuel rail pressure sensor or where is it located at? It's a 2015 Ford f150 2.7L ecoboost. Thanks
I have to replace that on my car shortly what type of Grease did you use
On my 98 Ex v6 4.0 SOHC i hooked up my scanner to FORSCAN and i'm getting a 0psi reading even when the car is on. Starts up every single time the only issue is that i've been stalling at intersections and red lights a lot more. A rolling idle. No codes. New PCV valve,cleaned MAF/Throttle, new IAC. I'm hoping my stalling is something having to do with the fuel delivery and the 0psi reading on fuel pressure might be the culprit. Am i on the right track or does this sound more like a vacuum leak?
Hey did you figure out this problem... Thanks
2000 ford explorer engine light on, p0174 p0171 lean codes, replaced vaccum hose on air box housing and till code
reappears ?
Thank you for your precise video. It appears the same sensor can be purchased for near $20. Are not all sensors create equal?
I tried that move and while the car was fine for a little while, it started acting up again and the code had come back. I guess I have to purchase the more expensive version like he said if I want the repair to last longer.
Good morning. I appreciate your videos. I have a crank no start issue on my 2006 Ford Expedition. I have changed the Fuel Pump and by passed the Fuel pump relay, when I noticed that the Fuel Pump wasn't getting power. The truck ran for about 2 weeks, now I have the same issue. Both the mechanic and I are completely confused as to what is the issue. Could it be the Fuel Rail Sensor causing this issue or the FUEL PUMP DRIVER MODULE? We are stuck.
What do you do to fix your issue? Do you replace this sensor I kinda have the same problem
@@daniloescobar3555 I traded in the truck. It was too much headache. But, if you buy parts, buy OEM ONLY! There's a relay mouthed on the back that rusted out over time. Change that, and that should solve the issue. I can't remember what it was called, but I changed that. If you look on the driver side rear frame you will see the part mounted on the frame.
Pls what did you do, have the same issue with mine ford Escape 2007
It doesn't seem to want to accelerate. Change fuel pump, plugs and flushed the nozzles. I'm so confused
@@daniloescobar3555 Pls what did you do, have the same issue with mine ford Escape 2007
It doesn't seem to want to accelerate. Change fuel pump, plugs and flushed the nozzles. I'm so confused
What is the function of the vacuum line on top of the sensor ? Mine snapped off and I'm not noticing a difference in performance.
Great information and very thorough-thanks, man!
After replacing and checking for leaks is it normal to smell gas inside the car.
I also had the defrost on if that makes a difference
Great video. I am actually getting a P018B and occasionally a P018C error. Will replacing this sensor correct my problem?Thanks
My code reader shows P0193 on my 2005 Ford Five Hundred also identified as the fuel rail pressure sensor. Looks pretty straightforward.
Did you happen to see the pressure in the fuel rail?
@@RickyPisano I have not attempted to replace the sensor yet. I've simply cleaned the contacts at the connector. So far so good.
@Vaun's Photography did you ever fix the problem?
Hi
What kind of grease did you put on it before inserting it?
And what do I do after I finish replacing it?
Do I just start the car right up??
I was also wondering about the grease
Too bad I already had to do this to my Freestar, a video from you would've been nice. Great videos!
Hi. I also have a free star. Where is the sensor located?
Can you please show how to replace the EGR on a 2010 escape hybrid. Francisco from Moreno valley, CA.
im currently in school and was wondering if port injection systems use a fuel rail.....? i know direct injection engines do, since port injection is injected into the intake thought it might be a diffrent set up?
+James FrancoThey both use common rail
FordTechMakuloco okay thxs!!
I replaced my sensor but lost the O ring in the chamber. Any tips to clean this out?
will my check engine go off after I replace this? or how do I clear the code?
Pull the negative battery cable for 10 minutes
Thanks, I had the same question. Worked!
as i was running a diagnostic on my 2008 ford escape i noticed engine load is at 30% , is that due to a bearing on a pulley driven part starting to seize?
No they all say that
I have a 2009 F150 4.6 liter. I'm having a power loss issue. I had it to a mechanic he changed the fuel filter and it didn't make a difference. He put it on his scanner and no codes are showing. The truck runs fine at start up seems to take the fuel no problem. The problem is when the engine has a load on it. If you step on the pedal it's like nothing is there. I'm going to make an appointment at the dealer. Is there anything you can suggest that may be the problem?
Please how did you fix it? Having same issue
Is this the same as the fuel.pressure regulator?
Great tip on the "brush-less motor." Thanks.
My 07 F150 quit running after 1 mile last week cutting out like fuel starvation with check engine light coming on. After the rollback trip back home pulled codes and came up with misfire cyl 5 and primary circuit in that cyl coil. Changed, no start. Leaned toward the fuel side and checked fuel pump driver. Rotted out as usual. Changed. Crank no start. Undid fuel line on rail and energized pump. Very little output. Changed out fuel pump. Crank no start. Another code po193. Have one ordered but cleared and still crank no start. Does it sound like the fuel pressure sensor? Go out going down the road? Act lime fuel starvation?
Pls how did you fix it? Having same issue
@@chidiuche754 feel like a dumbass but I had it hauled to dealer and come to find out it was the number 33 fuse blown. Now the fuses were the first thing I checked. The bad coil did blow the fuse but it blew in a way I couldn't see it, like down in the molded plastic. I missed it. They put a new one in and fired right up. Lot of work for nothing. Lesson learned. Replace fuses even if it doesn't look blown
What are the symptoms of a failed sensor. I’ve been fighting lean bank codes and very low power on a 2005 3v 6.8. When it runs horrible I can unplug the sensor and it runs good again. Can I leave it unplugged till I get the new sensor?
Hey I've replaced my sensor but I don't know where the other side of that vacuum hose goes to. can you help me out?
It varies with each vehicle and engine but the length is not that long it should connect to a constant vacuum source.
FordTechMakuloco i have the same focus as the one in the video. same engine and everything.
Had a lot of things done to my truck now one of the things that that's coming up is the fuel pressure sensor. I don't want to keep spending money on the truck is there a way to clean the sensor for testing to see if that's the problem?
Hi
Have a 2005 e 150 Ford Van and got this code P0101-FF today and it said fuel rail sensor..
Also driver side front Cylinder sometimes get coolant in the spark plug area and had to replace the coil pack several months back. Second time.. Not sure where liquid in seeping in from..
Any thoughts?
Thank you in advance...
Excellent Video!! Thanks Brian!!
Thanks for the video! how many sensors does a 07 ford explorer have?
My 03 mustang gt just died in the driveway, code was P0190 what do you think pressure sensor or fuel pump? also amazon does not have this motorcraft part for my car
Hello. great video. I need help with something. I have a 96 ford explorer with a no start. Sometimes .maybe once or twice a week in have to use starter fuel to start the truck. and then it will run. but in a day or two am back with useing the starter fuel .now it seems to be getting harder to start with the starter fuel. I would love to have your input on it. thanks.
+Larry Griffin You likely have a failing fuel pump it is going to be hard to catch but you need to test for fuel pressure when this is happening.
Just bought a 2008 Ford E 250 van that was sitting for a long time . Replaced the battery and it cranks but no start . Diag. scan shows P0191. Is this the only fix for this code ?
Great video, I'm doing this on a 2006 Freestyle and I hope it fixes my P0193 code plus a couple of other codes.
Did that fix it?