You literally just saved my 07 from going to the scrap yard, I was ready to throw in the towel on the ol gal after changing fuel pump, fuel filter, throttle positioning sensor, spark plugs and coil packs i was at a complete loss till I swapped the fuel pump drive moduel.fires right up my truck (optimus) thanks you!
Joshua, I am glad to help! I appreciate the comment. Your comment gave me an idea, my neighbor down the road a ways has a very nice looking Mark LT sitting beside his garage, I now wonder if I could help him as well. - Stiles
University of TH-cam wins again! Thanks a lot for the video. I used the paperclip over ride on the fuel module. Worked exactly as shown. Replaced the module. All is well. Thanks again!
You are the man. That was my exact problem on my 2008. Luckily happened at my house. Was able to diagnose and jump the FDM verifying the problem, because of your great video. Thank you so much 🤘
Just like everyone else on here thank you you saved me hours of work. I knew it was the fuel pump but didn’t even know about it. Wish I could add pictures it looks just like yours and mine has a hole in the back
Claude, Yep, I can't believe how the FPDM falls apart, but the Truck still runs . . . right up until it doesn't. I'm glad the video helped! I appreciate the comment! - Stiles
Thank you sooo much !! excellent video, this is second time I have to change this on a 16 year old F-150, I didnt know how to test my circuit...with paper clips is very smart !! ..I had to disconnect the battery for 2 minutes to re-start the computer. I live in uper Canada with the world record calcium-salt spreading, looks like you have to change this every 8 years...thanks again !!!
ToBloo, You are very welcome, I'm glad to help! Geez, you are my kind of Vehicle Owner; talking about period maintenance every 8 years. That is a long term vehicle owner! I the video I painted mine, I hope this helps with corrosion protection. Also Di-electric Grease on the Electrical Connector helps keep moisture out. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive Yup !...I`m just to poor or I just dont mind the scraches to go in the woods with it....Hahaha. I got a after market that was already painted. My " check engine " light is on...i just dont know if the module body needs to be grounded to the body. Maybe I could remove paint just a bit and disconnect - re-connect the battery...Thanks
Glad I could help! That looks like a Pontiac in your icon, to bad that car didn't continue, it could have turned into a great performance car. The last years of the GT prove that. Thanks for the comment! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive Yes it is an 88 GT. I plan to update the engine to a 06-11 GM 3.9 to add dependability and 100 HP. finally give the car what it wants, an ok amount of power.
Not sure if this is my issue as I don't have the proper testers for fuses and pwr. It is my landlord's truck; mine broke down and he said I could put his on the road and use it for work. I paid to legalize it and it never started. Great video, finally not just someone saying hey, your fuel pump is bad lol. Been sitting for 8 months so anything could have happened. 2:30 in the morning and I'm going to just the physical condition of the module.
Papa, Ensure your Battery has a full charge. I assume when attempting to start the F-150 you do not hear the Fuel Pump, The F-150 Cranks and will not start, get a helper to turn the Ignition Key, while you put your Ear to the Fuel Filler Opening (with the Fuel Cap removed), you should hear the Pump Run. Have the helper turn the Key on and off a few times. The Fuel Pump should cycle on and off. If it does not - - 1) With the Ignition Key off, 2) Remove the Electrical Connector from the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM), 3) Using 2 Paper Clips jumper the Positive and Negative Electrical Connector Sockets (like I showed you in the video), 4) Turn the Ignition Key "on" ( and not to "start" or the F-150 may start and run), 5) Go back to the Fuel Filler Opening and listen for a good strong Fuel Pump, 6a) If you don't hear it, it is likely the Pump, but you don't know unless you check Voltage. 6b) If you hear the Fuel Pump, go start the F-150, and it will likely run, you have bad FPDM. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
Thank you so much. I measured it like you said, on the fpdm, between the white wire and the black/yellow wire, with ignition off. There was 0 volts. Then I asked a helper to turn the key to the on position and voltage between the 2 pins increased to 9.4 volts. This morning I am going out to do all the rest of the things you said. I am getting ready now. I wish ford had put the central junction box somewhere else. But it is what it is, right? I can't begin to tell you how grateful I am for your help. A lot of auto repair sites leave out important things and are confusing and vague.
Thank you so very much my 2007 had the exact problem, I did exactly what you did and used the paperclips, your video is absolutely awesome, also a great speaker, thanks again
I assume you might be an engineer. I dont even have this problem but watched the entire video because your attention to detail is AWESOME. I wish you would make a video series on DETAILED troubleshooting !!! AWESOME!!!!
Tom, Thanks for the comment. I'm many things to many people. I've done a video on the under hood, Charging and Starting System(s) Troubleshooting, I believe it is useful to combine the two systems. The problem with troubleshooting is the branches based on different vehicles, (years, models, engines, and accessories), in other words, it is tough to do a video that includes everything that you need. I just added to my list of videos to do, "General troubleshooting approach - how to troubleshoot anything." Again, thanks for the comment. - Stiles
My truck is a 06 150 4x4 with a 5.4. 160000 miles. I had the turn over but not start condition. No trouble codes. No check engine light etc. I coild hear my fuel pump when key was turned on but not all the way to start. It ran for a couple seconds then stopped. I verified the pcm relay was good. All pcm and fuel related fuses were good. I replaced my fuel driver module but that was not the problem. Turned out i had a blow fuse - the one for the ignition coils. Replacing that fixed it
Carl, Thanks for the comment! As our trucks get older they are going to start showing their age. You are fortunate it was only a fuse. Sounds like you troubleshot in a logical manner, that is what I attempt to show in my videos. If you had not replaced the FPDM before, at the age of your truck I would have recommended it. Again, thanks for the comment! - Stiles
Thanks so much for doing this video! My son had his fuel pump on his 2007 F150 about 3 weeks ago, called today and said his truck wouldn't start/fire. After watching this video I had him take the gas cap off and listen for the fuel pump to run when the key was turned - no sound. Took a gamble and bought a new FP Drive Module and plugged it in - started right up! Dropped the spare tire and the old one looked exactly like the one in this video! It doesn't appear this was due to damage as mentioned in the video, it's just a flat out poor OEM design. The replacement module we got has two key improvements - 1) the housing case appeared to be plastic versus cast aluminum, and 2) it now has two rubber bushings to mount between the unit and the axle to keep it from bending/breaking. Thanks again!!!
I must have bought the same one you did @Tim Marquart. Mine was a Dorman brand. Same story here also, mine was corroded with a 2 inch hole in it. @Stiles Automotive thanks for your video!
I have an 08 F350, crank-no start. In the last 6 months, I’ve changed the fuel pump, FPDM, plugs, coils, and fuel rail pressure sensor. Was running well finally. Went on vacation. Came back and it cranks but won’t start. Will start with fuel sprayed into intake, so seems like a fuel issue. Have checked fuses. Can hear fuel pump come on for a couple seconds when key is turned on, but still won’t start. So frustrating since the fuses all seem good and the driver and pump are new. Any ideas Stiles?
Mine was broken exactly like yours and i was never hit in the back. Very odd indeed. The new mounting system seems to be much better Thanks so much for the video!! It was a life saver!
Glad it was helpful! I figure if you are watching a video you want to know as much as possible about the subject, including the details. That is were most of the questions are in the details! Thanks for the comment - Stiles
Brandon, That and Salt on Steel are my 2 most disliked things in the world. If I had my way, the whole world would be made out of Stainless Steel . . . and well . . . a little bit of Wood, to dress it up! - Stiles
Found information concerning a turn over - no start problem leading to the fuel pump driver module under the rear spare tire. Checked this item for failure, turns out the ground wire for this module had broke off from the frame member. Several attempts to re-ground failed to start the truck. After stripping back wire jacket cover and some insulation found that in addition to the ground wire there is additionally a bare wire from the wiring cluster which wraps around the brown/black and the pink/black wires from the module plug, this bare wire is connected to the black/yellow wire which is grounded to the frame. Well my bare stranded wire had 90% frayed/broke away from the main b/y ground wire and looked frayed back to at least 3' as far as I could find while searching along the wire cluster along the driver side of A frame member. These 3 wires brwn/blk, pink/ blk and the bare stranded wire were wrapped in a silver foil like sheathing. I could not find good well insulated wire along this chase so i added a good pc of wire to the largest dia of the stranded bare wire and re-assembled it to the ground wire, taped and siliconed all splices - it worked like a charm! So it was not my Fuel Pump Driver Module YET!
Wilburt, it is amazing your truck ran as long as it did, I'm amazed my truck ran as long as it did with the way the FPDM fell apart. With the condition of your wires, I'm surprised your FPDM is in one piece. Like I say in the video, if you haven't replace the Module, you need to. Thanks for taking time to write your comment, it may help someone in the future. - Stiles
Wow! Man, your a life saver." I'm thinking it's sounds like the fuel pump, and now I know how to fined out for sure. "Thanks brother" Thumbs up, like & Subscribe."
Isaac, I glad I was able to help you, I figure if my video helps one person, it was worth making. This video has helped many people, I hope to do more like it! Thanks for the comment. - Stiles
Nice video! Question, can a bad fuel pump module give me a "crank no start"? I hear the pump coming on but have no Schrader valve. Tried quick start and that was a no also, new battery, camshaft positioning sensors, got about 300 on my tach. checked all fuses & relays, starter switch, safety neutral etc.. I'm lost!
Tom, sounds like no spark. The FPDM can cause a cranks, but won't start, like it did for me in the video. But you say you can hear the Fuel Pump running, take the Gas Cap off, put your ear near it and have someone else turn the Ignition Key to "on", you should hear the Fuel Pump good and strong. Next check for Spark. Sounds like you are doing the right things, Fuses, Relays . . . Did you Truck run after replacing the Camshaft Position Sensors? Power at the PCM? Quick Start is Starting Fluid? (Be careful!) If so this leads me to believe, no spark. Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive ..Thanks for the reply! I just commented on the wrong thread lmao..But anyways, I have spark, and the first thing was changed both camshaft sensors. Finally got it running but, like a bag of cats! Got new codes, camshaft sensors all 14 test drives now along with o2 codes. Replaced the bad o2 (high voltage) cleaned the other 3. Test drive #15 and, same camshaft codes every time. Started to think I jumped time of my phasers are bad. Have no clue about phasers, though that was from star trek lol..Last time I rebuilt an engine was a 350, 25 years ago. Was able to drive it only for short tests due to how bad it's idling my last test drive it died again. Had to get it towed home. Back to a crank no start. But like I said every single tests I keep getting those camshaft codes. Now here's a funny thing, the last three mornings I was able to start it, but only for it to die right away. I started thinking fuel again!? I was about to remove the valve covers, possibly drop the pan and check my timing and phasers. But could a bad fuel module make it run sometimes, but at a very bad idle? Probably a lot easier to test then taking off the valve covers. Any feedback would be great! Once again I appreciate it Eh 🇨🇦 I've had 3 snow storms in 3 weeks, working outside, that's part of my problem.
My plug is corroded and I was wondering if I could make a jumper like you did bc it’s usually a in and an out for those models there you did it. Thanks!!
Elice, I wouldn't do that. You didn't say what F-150 you are working on, but for my 2005 F-150, 5.4L you can buy the FPDM Connector at Rock Auto (see link below). Make sure to put in your Vehicle information. - Stiles www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2005,f-150,5.4l+v8,1431304,electrical-connector,fuel+pump+drive+module+connector,15715
I have a 2013 E-350 with the same problem, it does start, but only runs for about 10 minutes then stalls and won't restart, just turns over. If I let it sit for another 10 minutes it will start again and run for about 2 minutes. the garage thinks it's electrical, but I tend to think this is the problem. For a $50 part I'm pretty sure I can change it out myself. Thanks for the great video.
Wayne, For F-150s, If your Fuel Pump Drive Module (FPDM) is corroded at all replace it, your E-350 FPDM is not the same, it is plastic, and I'm not convinced it is the problem, it could be, but when it fails it fails. I think . . . did your shop check the fuel pressure at the Fuel Rail? Was it ok? if low pressure your Fuel Pump may be failing. or your Fuel Pressure Sensor on the Fuel Rail could be causing a problem. I showed in the video how to jumper the FPDM Electrical Connector, your Electrical Connector is different, I believe you would jumper the 2 outside Sockets of the 3, then with the Ignition Key on the Fuel Pump will run at full pressure, does your Van start and run, now? If so the Fuel Pump is ok. Yes, it is a $50 part (for your E-350, not F-150s) and I would recommend you pay the extra money for a Motorcraft Part, I don't always, but in this case I do. - Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive My shop, the local Ford dealership, thinks it is electrical due to all the extra wires under my dash, the vehicle used to be a mobility transit van with wheelchair ramp. All wires for the exterior lights and ramp were cut and taped years before we bought it. But I started it up and drove it back from them and had no problem, no stalling. It just started recently and it has been sitting in my driveway. I did buy the part directly from Ford. There has never been any electrical smell at all that I have noticed either.
I'm only getting 8 volts on that white wire coming into the module in the back. I do have 12 volt on the inertia switch. Any idea how to figure out why? My module looks just like yours cracked and broken and I have no start with no sound from the fuel pump on key.. looks so similar to yours even the crossmember funk is the same.
Alex, you could have a bad white Wire, but I think a most likely cause is a dirty Electrical Connector (C3138) on the outside of the frame on the Driver's Side located about midpoint between the Front and Rear Wheels, it is under a black plastic Cover. It may be worth your time to remove the Cover Clean the area and disconnect each Electrical Connector there, Clean with electrical contact Cleaner, and apply generous amounts of di-electric grease to the Connector, then reconnect them. I'd be interested to know if you get 12 volts at the FPDM. Let me know how it goes. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive so what I was finding today is I only have 13 volts when I jumper the grounds in that module connector. Which actually I think makes sense doesn't it? If I just try to test the five pin for power I get 7 volts until I jumper the two grounds on the opposite side of the connector together and then I see 13. I assume that makes sence. I'm thinking about just hooking 12 volt power from a battery directly to the pump terminals to make sure.
Brosephski, I think I just Googled, "2005 F-150 Wiring Diagram", that is a Page out of the Ford Wiring Diagram Manual. I quickly found a colored version at wiringdiagram.2bitboer.com. - Stiles
Replaced fpdm, replaced fuel rail pressure sensor I’m getting fault code P0191 fuel pump is brand new as well. Truck will run fine for a minute then start to stumble and shut off at times. 2004 Ford F-150 4.6
Did you replace the Fuel Filter? Put a gauge on the Fuel Rail to help determine what is happening. Key on, Engine off you should see 35-45 psi, with the Engine running 28-55 psi. If you don't have a problem with your Fuel Lines you have good pressure at the Fuel Rail. Then I suspect an intermittent wiring problem. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive found FPDM was faulty returned it to the auto store and swapped it for a new one, truck runs like née now. I confirmed by checking voltage at connector and jumping connectors
Mine just cranks but slowly. What could I possibly check? I already jumped the positive and negative sides of my starter, also benched my starter out the car and it's OK, but still nothing.
Evan, the first thing is ensure you have a good Battery and it is fully charged. My Stiles Automotive Video, Charging and Starting Systems Troubleshooting may help you (see link below) - Stiles Charging & Starting Systems Troubleshooting: Engine Fails to Crank or Cranks Slow, May or Not Click th-cam.com/video/POAIX4QaEhA/w-d-xo.html
Brandon, I mentioned this in the video, when I talked about painting the new FPDM. I left the spot where the Mounting Bolt contacts the FPDM Base, un-coated so that if the Module is grounded thru the Base that there would be a good ground. I think that it is. And I think that it will not work properly if not mounted. Let me know if you tried it and what happened. Be sure to coat your new Module to prevent corrosion. - Stiles
Thanks for the experience Great video. I'm having similar problem I changed mass air flow sensor and it started right up and run fine I though I fixed the problem, I shut it off and started it up again and it started just fin. But then THE PROBLEM STARTED APPEARING AGAIN AFTER 40 MINUTES CRANKS BUT WON'T START. Now am just sitting here scratching my head 🙃 it feels like its upside down
I don't think you can install the Mass Airflow Sensor upside down, but see my video as a reference, Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Cleaning - Motorcraft AFLS131 {#3L3Z12B579BA} '04 thru '08 F-150 Trucks 5-4L th-cam.com/video/zS9J2GGHSSg/w-d-xo.html I hope this helps! - Stiles
Mine has intermittently cranked but didn't start a few different times. I tried a couple of times and it started. Wonder if this is my issue. Might take a look and swap it out if it looks bad. 205k and rusty so I'd guess that's the issue.
Moto, Yep replace it if corroded at all, clean the Electrical Connector and grounds, check the Wiring Harness to the FPDM (from Frame to FPDM). - Stiles
I tested both the ground the black and white and the power the white one...the ground one isn't making the circuit light up so I don't know we're to go from there now
Marcos, Your message is a little confusing. This may help you. Reference the Wiring Diagram starting at 2:19 of my video. There are 6 Wires, your colors may vary from mine, but should be very similar, these number correspond to the pins on the FPDM Connector: 1) & 6) are control signal wires from the Powertrain Control Module to the Fuel Pump Driver Module (these are the 2 small wires in the center of the connector), 5) White, power to the FPDM (should be battery voltage with the Key "on"), 3) Black, ground (this is the only true ground, meaning to chassis ground), 2) Brown w/white stripe (or BN-WH) (this is the power to the Fuel Pump from the FPDM, 4) Pink w/Black stripe (or PK-BK) (this is the negative from the Fuel Pump to the FPDM, this is not a chassis ground). Does this help? - Stiles
So, I changed my plugs with no problem, using the Motorcraft SP-546 plugs. My truck was running ok with a slight miss before changing them. No after I changed them, the truck will start fine, I take it for a test drive, and about a block away, it dies. It cranks and cranks but no start. I let it sit for a few minutes, and it starts, and I'm able to get to get it home. I am confused!
Sutton, The first thing a Military Mechanic asks the Equipment Operator is, "what is the last thing you touched?" I'm trying to think what you could have done, but your problem sounds like a Fuel Problem, not a Spark Plug or Coil (CoP) problem. You commented on my "2004 thru 2008" F-150 Video; First, what Year, Model and Engine do you have? When you removed the Number 4 Coil and Spark Plug (Passenger's Side Back), did you remove the PCM? Did you remove the Electrical Connectors on the PCM? Did you touch the wires on the Electrical Connectors on the PCM. The "let it sit for a few minutes" doesn't sound electrical to me, sounds Fuel or Heat related and you didn't drive it far so, likely not heat. I'd love to know the Fuel Pressure on the Engine Fuel Rail during this cycle of run, die, crank and no start, and run. - Stiles
I took my truck to a service garage and had it put on diagnostics and they said it was the fuel pump driver module. So to make sure I jumped the ineg to neg pos to pos on the clip and still nothing. However I put the test light on the clip and did have power coming from the fuse box.. That being said why did my pump not kick in when I by passe the module by using jumpers?
Lou, I'm not sure why your Fuel Pump didn't run, I showed you the 6 Pin Connector in the video and if you have Battery voltage at the FPDM Connector, your Fuel Pump should have run. Your Fuel Pump could be bad, HOWEVER, this is much less likely. This video is talking about the 2004 thru 2008 F-150 and if you have NOT replaced your FPDM yet. I highly recommend you doing so. Even, in the event you find the Fuel Pump bad. 1) Make sure you have Battery voltage at the FPDM Connector using a Volt Meter, should read 11 to 12.6 Volts. If you don't you need to find out why. 2) Make sure you have a good Ground. Measure continuity to Ground. 3) And . . . make sure you inspect the FPDM Wiring Harness from the Truck Frame to the FPDM. Make sure it looks good and re-rap it with Electrical Tape. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive hi. I have been looking your video. unfortunately I am not a mechanic but I am trying to get help. I have a2009 Ford F150 4.6L that cranks but won't start since a hit a loading dock. A mechanic couldn't find a reset switch but said the fuel pump was bad. I didn't agree but he replaced it anyway. I also put a new battery but still no luck to start it. if you can help I will appreciate. Thank you Mo
@@mamedaourndiaye2816 Mo, It sounds like you shipped your 2009 F-150 on a boat, I know about shipping Military Vehicles on Ocean-going Boats. Military Vehicles experience a harsh environment depending on which deck they are on. I would expect your F-150 would be treated better, but still be subject to moisture and salt air. I believe you are correct when talking about a Reset Switch, which is really a Fuel Shut-Off Switch. Your 2009 F-150, is not like my 2005 F-150, I have a Physical Shut-off Switch, you do not. Your F-150 is similar to my 2013 Mustang. I believe your F-150 experience a bump which may have triggered this Fuel Shut-off Feature. Reference your Owner's Manual Page 313 & 314 (I copy it here): FUEL PUMP SHUT-OFF In the event of a moderate to severe collision, this vehicle is equipped with a fuel pump shut-off feature that stops the flow of fuel to the engine. Not every impact will cause a shut-off. Should your vehicle shut off after a collision due to this feature, you may restart your vehicle by doing the following: 1. Turn the ignition switch to the off position. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the on position. In some instances the vehicle may not restart the first time you try to restart and may take one additional attempt. Also, because your Truck is similar to my 2013 Mustang, my Mustang Video will help you: Mustang After Accident, Fuel Shutoff Procedure - 2005 thru 2014 Ford Mustangs th-cam.com/video/87NdhFFM_Lc/w-d-xo.html If this doesn't do it, your Mechanic needs to determine if the Fuel Pump is Running and you have fuel pressure at the Fuel Rail on the Engine. And determine if you have Ignition Spark. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
Richard, what Engine does your F-350 have? On first thought, the 1999 (or so) thru 2004 F-350 gas Engines have a Fuel Supply Line (or Pressure side) and a Fuel Return Line. Which means you have a Fuel Pressure Regulator. The Regulator in on the Fuel Rail on the Top of the Engine or on the Fire Wall just behind the Engine. If I'm wrong tell me your Engine Size, I'll have a look in the Parts Book. - Stiles
Mit, I wouldn't if you can find a ride to the Parts Store. Is it just a couple of miles? In my younger days I probably would have tried it. Your Fuel Pump will continue to run with the key on, which will over pressurize the Fuel System. Best case, your Engine will run Fuel Rich. Will it hurt the Fuel System, probably not, it should handle the extra pressure. Will it hurt the Fuel Pump, probably not for a few miles. Will it hurt the injectors or push one open (and introduce excessive Fuel into the Engine?), probably not. In the end, it would be best to get a ride from someone. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
Juan, a Fuel Pressure Regulator is a mechanical device that control the Fuel pressure by returning some Fuel back to the Fuel Tank. A Fuel Pressure Sensor sends a signal to the Fuel Pump Driver Module to regulate or control the fuel pressure. The Fuel System that uses the Regulator has a Fuel Return Line and the System that uses the Sensor does not. - Stiles
Mine I check all fuse and they fine I did the jumper with the 2 wires and pump still not working I did take the pump out and I did conected directly to power and turn on but when I plugged to the wire connector to the truck is not turning on
Jesus, Check continuity from the FPDM Connector to the Fuel Pump Connector, and check the Voltage at the Fuel Pump Connector. The Wiring Harness to the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) takes a lot of flexing and is likely bad or has a break in it. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive sir thank you for taking the time to answer I did replace the pump and is working fine on mine was the fuel pump that was bad but I did learn a lot from your video thank you sir
James, Start out like I did in the video, check fuses. I point out the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Fuses and the Fuel System Fuses. Did you damage a Wiring Harness or leave a Ground Wire off went replacing the Oil Pump? I think my Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) failed went I was working on my F-150 and rocking the truck. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
Thank you for the video I knew this could be the possible culprit and I think it is one day the trucks running like a top next morning crank no start..everyone was telling me fuel pump but I have a full tank! So I started searching checked fuzes and used your diagram and viola I have one as well rotted out! Ford should issue a recall for these parts. Yes it’s corrosion but what if my wife was driving with the kids and the truck died on the highway! Anyways Thankyou!
I agree, or at least there should be a Ford Service Bulletin out there and everytime one of these Ford Trucks goes near a Ford Dealer Service Department, the Manager should be offering to replace it, if it hasn't been replaced before. You are welcome and Thanks for the comment! - Stiles
Angie, even if your Engine wouldn't run on Starter Fluid, it should still pop off or try to run. Be careful using Starter Fluid! I'd look to see if your Engine has spark at the Spark Plugs. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive the truck was only drove a few times over the last few years. Drove it about 30 miles and the engine shut off. It tried to crank only a few times. It was very loud. Now it wont turn over at all. Power comes on when you turn key. No check engine light and no codes. The battery is new. We are thinking it’s the engine. Thank you for responding
Paul, I wouldn't unless there is no other way. Your Engine will run very rich (meaning to much fuel per parts of air) which will likely cause a runability problem. - Stiles
Ben Soto ... my truck just did the same thing it crank but won't start , same problem you had. this video will help me figure if is the fpdm. I hope it is .. will get back to you.. my truck is a 2006 4 door supercrew cab
Benjamin, If they use salt on your roads, chances are it is the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM). Under any conditions, for a 2004 thru 2008 F-150 with Cranks but won't start condition, the most like cause is the FPDM. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
Hi, please help me. I have 08 f150. Crank, but no Start. Every morning, it will start for 5 seconds and shutoff then never starts again. So I check the driver pump module, it looks bad. I bypass with wires like you did. I heard the fuel pump running, but when I tried to start the truck it still wouldn't start. What could be my issues? I removed the fuel pressure sensor, I see gas in the rail.
Erad, Makes me wonder how much Fuel you have at the Fuel Rail, Can you get a Fuel Pressure Gauge and read the pressure at the Fuel Rail? First do this; After you experience the "start for 5 seconds and shutoff", cycle the Ignition Key on and off (like priming the Fuel System after running out of Fuel, turn Key "On" 1, 2, 3, 4, turn Key "Off" 1, 2, do this 5 times), now start the Truck. If it runs, your Fuel Pump could be weak, (I don't know what it sounds like), has your Fuel Filter either been replaced? If you have good Fuel Pressure at the Fuel Rail, I suspect the Fuel Pressure Switch. Your FPDM may still be working, but if it "looks bad" replace it and clean the mounting location and electrical connector. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive thank you for your reply. I did everything you mentioned except for the checking of the fuel pressure. I do not have the machine to do that option. I installed the new fuel module today. The truck started once and dies. Then never start again, but cranks. I have order the Fuel Pressure Sensor attached to the Rail. I will see what happens after. I am a little worried because I saw some videos online that people disconnected the fuel pressure sensor and their truck started and runs. Mine does not when I disconnected it.
@@StilesAutomotive Also, I have checked all the fuses and relays. The engine doesn't start to warm up enough to get a code. So, NO fault code is available. It's always shows testing is not complete
@@StilesAutomotive Hi bro, so I changed fuel pressure sensor, and the throttle body and the sensor. It still does the same thing, started and dies after 3 seconds and never start again. I removed the fuel pressure sensor by the fuel rail again, I cranked it, there's high pressure fuel flying out. So I know it getting enough fuel. I hear click from relays and fuses are good. Please what is the next thing to do. If timing chain is going bad, will it start at all? Remember, it always starts once at first attempt every day.
My Truck is a 2005, other years use different color, but the Electrical Connector Positions are the same and the gauge (or size / thickness) of the wires are different. Your Wire gauge is like mine. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
I have a 2006 f150 5.4 that will not start unless I use fluid. Then run and drive like normal. fuel pressure is between 38.5 to 40.0 while running. When no start the fuel pressure does not rise. 3 seconds of ether it fires up and has good fuel pressure. Any help
Young, I haven't heard of that exact problem before, probably because I'm not big on using Starting Fluid on Gas Engines, Diesel Engine sometimes, but not Gas. I suspect if you don't have a wiring issue, that you have a problem with your Pressure Sensor on the Fuel Rail. - Stiles
La otra falla que hace cuando rueda , al cabo de unoa minutos pierde potencia y la apagó y prendo de nuevo y anda bien luego vuelve a fallar y asi susecibamente .
User, I used Google Translate to get, "The other fault that occurs when it rolls, after a few minutes it loses power and I turned it off and turned it on again and it runs fine then it fails again and so on." Yes, that also sounds like a fuel problem, either the FPDM, Fuel Pump, or Fuel Pressure Sensor. I translate: Sí, eso también suena como un problema de combustible, ya sea el FPDM, la bomba de combustible o el sensor de presión de combustible. - Stiles
Unfortunately I replaced the FPDM and it is still crank/no start whats next? I did the jump for the fuel pump and got it to prime/run but still couldn't crank the engine with it jumped. I for sure thought it was the FPDM with how badly corroded it was but I'm still only able to start once its warmed up outside.
David, You have to be more specific for me to help you, You said "it is still a crank/no start" then in the next sentence "still couldn't crank". A crank and no start condition means the Engine turns over with the Starter, but the Engine fails to run or fire. This means you are not putting into the Engine: Air, Fuel or Spark, (assuming no other mechanical failures). Air is easy and likely not the issue unless the Truck has been sitting a long time. Fuel or Spark, you are working the Fuel Side if looking at the FPDM, Yep replace it if corroded at all, clean the Electrical Connector and grounds, check the Wiring Harness to the FPDM (from Frame to FPDM), check Fuel Pressure at the Fuel Rail (with the FPDM connector jumpered like in the video), if low Pressure, Fuel Pump is at Fault, if good Pressure, Fuel Pressure Sensor on the Fuel Rail is likely the problem. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive thanks for the response and sorry for the confusing comment, it cranks but no start even with the FPDM jumped with 20 amp fuses. When I jumped it the fuel pump was running, do I need to check the actual pressure at the rail or will jumping the FPDM and attempting to start be enough? Could I disconnect the fuel pressure sensor on the rail to test it that way? I plan on replacing the fuel filter since it's been awhile as well. I also swapped fog lamp relay and PCM relay but still crank no start. Thanks again!
So question if that module doesn't look damage how domu know if its the module or just a bad pump . My car does exactly wat this car does 2004 expedition crank and cranks nut no start at all please help im on fix income on disability and lots of doctors appointments thank u in advance for your help
Jesus, You know if the Fuel Pump is bad because you jumper the wires (like I show in the video) and the Fuel Pump will run or if the Fuel Pump doesn't run and you are powering it, it is likely the Pump. - Stiles
Hi, I have a 04 f150 4.6 v8 heritage, I'm having a intermittent crank and start, it has been checked with Scan tools at a dealership, the tech could not find any code's, I asked the service manager if it could be the fuel pump driver module when I picked up the truck, he didn't know, what would you recommend I do ?.
Vernon, Sorry for the late reply (I normally get to your type of question with in 24 hrs), I was down range. The Spark side (and PCM side) of your problem, often results in a OBDII code, but the Fuel Side (ie Pressure Sensor, Fuel Pump Driver Module and Fuel Pump) does not. Intermittent problems are hard to diagnose, I'd love to know your Fuel Pressure at the Fuel Rail. 1) Fuel Pumps can get old a flow less fuel, but normally don't fail this way, they stop all together. 2) Like I stated in my Video that you are commenting on (and the reason for the video) if you haven't replaced your FPDM, I'd do so, but You need to pay attention to the wires (intermittent problems are very often broken wires or bad grounds), remove the Electrical Tape and Harness Wrap from the Driver Module to the mounting location on the Truck Frame and inspect the wires, clean the connectors, re-wrap them with Electrical Tape. 2a) on the Left (Driver's) Side Frame (and on the outside of Frame) and mid-way between the wheels is a Plastic Cover that protects Harness Connectors, clean the connectors there. 3) You have a Fuel Pressure Sensor on the Fuel Rail on the Engine. It could be going bad or maybe dirty, in either case replace it. For the FPDM and the sensor, I would only use Ford Motorcraft Parts. Use a lot of a good connector cleaner like this one: QD Contact Cleaner CRC amzn.to/3DKfOQ3 Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
I have one of these trucks in the middle of the jungle in Guatemala and have been fighting fuel pump issues for 3 months now with no success. I managed to get a hold of a brand new fuel pump module but either it's not grounding correctly or it's not receiving commands from the computer. I use jumper wires on the connector pin two to five and three to four like you say in the video and the truck starts and runs. I left it in there and tried to drive down the street but after 2 or 3 times maybe 10 minutes total running the brand new Bosch fuel pump burnt out. Is it safe to assume that the fuel pump was under too much stress because there is no return line? Is there no way to Jimmy rig this thing to work? I'm on dirt roads in the middle of the jungle maybe 15 mile per hour max speed, I'm just looking for a way to make it start.
Alex, You didn't say the model year and engine of your F-150. The Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) pulses the Fuel Pump on and off to regulate the fuel pressure. Yes, if you run the Fuel Pump continually with no pressure regulation your Fuel Pump will likely prematurely fail. Your new FPDM grounds thru the Mounting Bolts to the Truck crossmember. Removing the Bolts and reinstalling them on a new FPDM likely has a good enough ground, however, you should remove it and clean the Mounting Bolts, new FPDM and the Crossmember at the mounting location with a Wire Brush. You should clean the FPDM Electrical Connector (like I did in the video) with Contact Cleaner and use Dielectric Grease on it. With that said, I think your real problem is . . . You didn't mention any fault codes or Check Engine Light . . . and you should have for this problem . . . but, I believe you have a bad Fuel Injection Pressure Sensor, (below is the link to the Rock Auto Page for my 2005 F-150 5.4L Sensor, buy/order using your Truck information). This Pressure Sensor is located on the Engine Fuel Rail, Mine is on the Leftside (Driver's Side) of the Air Filter Housing, behind the Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. You should normally get a Fault Code for this sensor, but maybe you didn't. When you replace it, again, clean the Electrical Connector and apply Di-electric Grease. Next, if the above didn't fix your problem, Clean the Electrical Connector(s) (I need to do a video on this, but have not) under the Plastic Cover on the outside of the Frame on the Leftside (Driver's Side) of the Truck. These Connectors, joint the Rear Harnesses to the Front Harnesses on the Truck and can became corroded. You should clean and Dielectric Grease these some day, anyway. Even if you fix the problem. There is more, if you still have a problem you need to clean the Grounds and Electrical Connectors on the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM is located in the Engine Compartment near the Battery on the Firewall. Be careful, don't clean the Connectors if you don't need to, you could damage the PCM Connector Pins. But, Someday if you replace the Battery, clean the PCM Grounds with a Wire Brush and coat with Anti-seize. If it comes to cleaning PCM Connectors, do a continuity check on the Signal Wire from the PCM to the FPDM, these are the 2 smaller wires I point out in the video. There is not a easy way to jerry-rig or bypass this system. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2005,f-150,5.4l+v8,1431304,fuel+&+air,fuel+injection+pressure+sensor,6376
If you connected the Battery Cables backward you likely caused other damage, may be Fuse protected you, but I'd be worried about the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) first. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
04 F150 All lights on the dash work with the radio. Headlights work. I turn the key to the on position and nothing happens. No crank, no start, no nothing. FPDM?
Michael, No, not the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM), it is the Starter, Battery Low Voltage (or bad) or the Alternator (causing the low Battery voltage). Although the Headlights and Dash Light work, your Battery may not have the power to turn-over the Engine. - Stiles
Happy, No, your Fuel System is different. The newer System doesn't have a Fuel Return Line and this FPDM (Fuel Pump Driver Module) acts to control the fuel pressure. Your Fuel System has a both a Fuel Return Line and a Fuel Regulator to control the fuel pressure. - Stiles
I pulled the #5 keep alive fuse believing it was neccesary to calibrate the new blender actuator door and now I have a no crank no start with a u1900 code stored. Any suggestions? I think the ket was turned to on when I pulled it. Might have been a mistake now thinking back on it.
JD, Yep with the key on and the system powered you confused the PCM into thinking it has a CAN Bus fault. 1) Try using a Scan Tool to clear the Fault, 2) if it will not clear, attempt to Clear the PCM memory, (With the Terminals disconnected, touch the 2 Battery Terminals together for 10 seconds, be sure to remove the Negative Battery Terminal first [as always!] ). Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
Ed, Yep, just paper clips, I only ran the truck this way for a minute to verify the Fuel Pump worked and the truck ran. I did not move the truck. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive would my next step actually be changing out the fuel pump? Backstory, truck sat with a drained fuel tank for 4-5 years. I brought it home, poured about 10 gals into it. Fuel gauge needle isn’t picking up either..cranking but not starting
@@boostedjdmem1 When you put the jumpers in, you put them in correctly, ground to ground and power to power? If you jumper this right, the Fuel Pump should run continuously. If it doesn't you have a bad wire or bad pump, Because the Fuel Pump sat for so long, if you take it out and play with it, it may run again. - Stiles
So does it have to be put on to get ground having that problem I bought it but didn’t put it on the frame just plug it but didn’t work wondering if I should put it on frame
@@elieli1347 I don't think it is grounded thru the frame, but when I painted mine, I kept one mounting hole free from paint in case it is grounded thru the frame. - Stiles
yawotton, Look to the simple things first. Fuel and spark, how do you know it's getting fuel? and are you getting spark. Did you owner hear any noises when it last ran? - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive one of these Facebook marketplace deals 🙄... I ask about the fuel pump and he said it's working... Got it from the owner as payment...yeah one of those deals... wasn't catching when he got it
I’ve got question. I got a f 150 5.4 l and the truck won’t start but the electronics is on tho but when I turn the key all I hear is click and nothing happens what could be the problem?
What kind of click? A click like in the video? that's the Fuel Pump Relay, or a Click, Click, Click of the starter. For either, the simple answer is a low Battery condition. Make sure your Battery has a full charge, if it doesn't, charge it and determine why it doesn't - Stiles
Did you check for OBDII Fault Codes? If you are sure you are getting fuel to the engine, you need to check for spark, a no spark condition has many potential causes. If your FPDM is corroded and never replaced, I'd replace it now, while you are looking at it. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive my fault code is p1299, engine was getting to hot. I just relaxed spark plugs 6 months ago so they shouldn’t be a problem. My module doesn’t look corroded but I am going to replace it just to see
@@StilesAutomotive I don’t know if I’m for sure getting fuel to the engine. When the FPDM is hot wired, I can hear my fuel pump. That’s a good sign, but not a definitive measure of it working?! Correct? Or could it still be the problem if a new FPDM doesn’t fix it
@@cameroncopeland8919 Cameron, we need to backup. You overheated your engine (04 thru 08 F-150) and now you have a cranks but won't start condition? Tell me more. What happened after you overheated the engine, you drove home . . . Truck hasn't started since? What you say in your other comment is true, just 'cause the pump runs doesn't mean you are getting sufficient fuel pressure at the fuel rail, however, you can tell a lot from the sound of the pump. You can tell if it is strong and hitting hard, or if it is slow and laboring. Often when the fuel pump fails, it fails. Back to the other side, Spark, if you have a no spark condition, the fault is not likely the spark plugs or the individual coil on plug coils. It is a PCM fault or a sensor telling the PCM not to fire (or a bad wire). - Stiles
Trainnerd, No, your Fuel System is different. The newer System doesn't have a Fuel Return Line and this FPDM (Fuel Pump Driver Module) acts to control the fuel pressure. Your Fuel System has a both a Fuel Return Line and a Fuel Regulator to control the fuel pressure. - Stiles
I got same problem but 03 cadillac truck i cannot figure out wtf it is starter good because it cranks battery good all lights turn on it has oil i hear the fuel pump and i was just driving the truck turned it off went and got my niece from school came back out to truck got in and took off about a half mile down the block it died wouldnt start back up fuses and relays are good like wtf lol
Villain, that sounds like a fuel or spark related problem, because it just died. It also sounds like you are doing the right things, checking Fuses and Relays. Back to Basics: for a engine to run you must put in Air, Fuel, and Spark. Unless the car hasn't run in months you know it is getting Air. Spark you can check at the Spark Plug. Fuel check Fuel pressure at the Fuel Rail. You didn't mention any Check Engine Lights or Fault Indication. This might lead you to a Sensor Failure or other indication. Did you hear any noises at all prior to the Engine dying? if no, ok, but, if yes, could be something more serious like Camshaft Timing. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive no noises at all never had a problem with the truck at all it started for a second then died it wants to start again but wont which makes me think its the fuel pump i put little gas in incase my gauge is faulty still nothing im pretty sure its the fuel pump though ill keep u updated after i replace it
@@StilesAutomotive okay update lol so got a fuel pump installed it replaced the fuel filter put new relays and checked fuses it started up finally and drives but its still dyeing when driving and guess what now my 2002 Denali is doing the exact same thing but the starter relay was busted when i move it the truck cranks wont start kinds weird so went and bought a new relay now it wont even crank but all the lights go on on the denali this is BS lol
I change my module and the fuel rail sensor it started drove to store parked it. Next morning not working. Took the module off and reconnected started but then it went off ... smh heeellllpppp😅😅😅
Bebo, I wonder if that isn't a grounding problem. I'd clean (with a wire brush) the FPDM base, the Mounting Point on the Frame, and the Bolts. Have you had any luck fixing your truck? - Stiles
Enjoy, did you try using a jumper at the FPDM like I showed in the video? Did it run strong? Do you have 12 Volts at the FPDM? Did you ensure the Impact Switch is ok and not actuated? - Stiles
James, of course it depends on what part of Canada you are from. I lived in Fargo ND for a couple of years and they used very little salt on the road in the winter. In most of the Midwest the Road Commission puts a LOT of salt on the roads, which cause a LOT of corrosion on vehicles. The F-150 FPDM is mounted in a position that gets salt on it but doesn't it wash water on it to clean it. As you can see from my video, my FPDM fell apart when I removed it. A word to the wise, if you have 242,000 miles on your F-150 and you haven't replaced the Module, do it as soon as you can. Best wishes for your "rusty problem". - Stiles
When I turn the key to start position I get approximately 9 volts on the white wire from the fuel pressure drive module. Is that sufficient voltage to run the fuel pump? Or is there a voltage drop somewhere that is keeping the (new) fuel pressure drive module from receiving enough voltage to power the fuel pump? Your video is the best one I'v e seen. Thank you one million times. Please help me with this voltage problem. It's like you said, engine cranks but don't run. It's a 2006 ford f150 5.4 litre. I have watched about 30 video's so far and spent a week trying to get this truck to start, including jumpering the 2 sets of outside pins on the fuel pressure drive module, which did cause it to start, plus verifying grounds , fuses, wiring, etc. Again, thank you so much for any help you can offer.
Winter, Glad to help. We want close to Battery Voltage at the FPDM Connector White Power Input Wire, Socket 5. Voltage drop a few tens is ok, that's Battery Voltage minus 0.2 to 0.4 Volts. We want 12 Volts at that Socket. We need to be clear, you said "from" the FPDM, the White Wire is "to" the FPDM. If you are talking about the Brown-White Wire "from" the FPDM and "to" the Fuel Pump, that's different, I don't think you are. How did you measure 9 Volts at the White Wire at Socket 5 and using the Socket 3 (Black Wire) Ground like I did my video? If so you need to measure measure voltage again, using a good ground, use a wire and go all the way to the Battery Negative Terminal if you have to. You wrote about grounds, did you find and clean the ground on the Black Wire at the FPDM Connector? I didn't do this in my video. If you still measure 9 Volts at the FPDM Connector, measure voltage before and after (both wires) on the Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch (left-side of the Fuse Panel, shown in video). Is all that clear? 1) Measure Voltage at Socket 5 (White Wire) of FPDM Connector using good ground. 2) If 11.8 to 12.6 Volts, goto step 3, if 9 Volts goto step 4. 3) Clean ground at Truck Frame from FPDM Connector and verify Black Ground Wire is ok. 4) Measure Voltage at Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch (before and after) should be Battery Voltage on both. 5) If 11.8 to 12.6 Volts - likely White Wire to FPDM Connector is bad. If 9 Volts we need to look at why. I look forward to your reply - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive Thank you so much. I am going to do all these things you said this morning . I am getting ready to go out to the truck right now. I think ford should not have put the central junction box in such an inconvenient place, but it is what it is. Also, to answer your question, I measured the voltage by turning the ignition to the on position and testing between the white wire to the blk/yello wire, and that's where i got 9 volts. When I returned the key to the off position there was no voltage.
Paul, Can you verify you bought the correct part number? I know there are several Ford Part Numbers of the FPDM that look similar. I don't know if they are different generations of the same part, but think that are different FPDMs for different Ford Vehicles. If you have the correct part, look for bent pins on your new Module. I don't think the Module grounds through the base of the Module, so that shouldn't be an issue. I'd be interested to know if the old Module drives (or turns on) the Fuel Pump continuously. This would mean it failed on, and you may not be receiving a signal from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Let me back up to verify. With the new FPDM the truck doesn't run, but if you go back to the old FPDM is does run again? Or, it did run with the old FPDM, now doesn't run with either the new or old FPDMs? For the first case, this is what I was talking about above. For the second case, you likely blew a fuse and need to check fuses 34 (20 amp PCM Power) and Fuse 5 (7.5 amp PCM Keep Alive). Hope this help, let me know how your troubleshooting goes. - Stiles
Gurmeet, this part is the Fuel Pump Driver Module or FPDM. Look in the video description for link to the Amazon Page for more information and to purchase. - Stiles
Thanks so much!! This is exactly what was preventing crank no start issue. You’re a awesome and blessing!! I really appreciate your help sir. Wish you the best!! Question: what happens if we leave the jumper in and drive it while waiting for a new FPDM? Will that be a bad idea? Thanks a ton kind sir!!
I might run the truck with the 2 x Jumpers installed (protect them from shorting out), if I had to run the Truck to get home. You are not regulating the Fuel, so the engine will be run "rich" which means it is getting to much fuel. I wouldn't do this for very long. You could easily get a tow truck to get you home. You are welcome, thanks for the comment! - Stiles
Alex, My truck was running fine until the fuel pump didn't run at all. When the FPDM fails it can cause intermittent engine problems and a fault code in the OBDII display. My truck did not indicate any fault codes and from my video my FPDM broke in half and smaller pieces when removed. - Stiles
Paul, Sounds like a fuel related problem, if it was electrical it wouldn't run at all. Pressure Switch on the Fuel Rail, Fuel Pump, non-venting Fuel Tank, unlikely but Restricted Fuel Filter. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
Kris, Really? Ok, I give up, what vehicle are you looking for an Inertia Switch on? Newer Fords don't have one, check out my Stiles Automotive Video: Mustang After Accident, Fuel Shutoff Procedure - 2005 thru 2014 Ford Mustangs th-cam.com/video/87NdhFFM_Lc/w-d-xo.html - Stiles
Donnie, That tells me the most likely problem is the Fuel Pressure Sensor on the Fuel Rail on the Top of the Engine. It could possibly be a Wiring problem or a problem with the Powertrain Control Module, but not as likely. Did you make sure the case (the body) of the new FPDM is well ground to the Mounting Point on the Crossmember? Is the Electrical Connection on the FPDM ok? no Pins bent? - Stiles
Nick, you are not giving me much to go on. You have to give the Engine: Air, Fuel and Spark. Do you have Spark? Do you have Fuel at the Engine Fuel Rail? Did you have any noises when your Truck started the No Start Condition? A noise like the Timing Chain Jumping a Tooth? Anything? Was you Fuel Pump not running before? Did you replace the FPDM? If these 2 things are true, you likely have Air in the Fuel System. Cycle the Fuel Pump on and off 6 or more times. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive you’re right sorry I was in the middle of a frustrating diagnosis I have spark, the fuel pump wasn’t running until I put the jumpers in and now it runs with the key on. Cranks over strong but no start. Going to double check that I have fuel at the fuel rail !
So, I finally got the inertia switch out last night, by hanging upside down off the passenger seat. I think I now need to go to the chiropracter. I couldn't actually test the circuit because everyone went home and there was no one to turn the ignition on. Today, hopefully, I can finally accomplish the mission. I'll let you know what happens.. Thanks again for the help. I'd like to freind you on facebook, if you don't mind leaving your name
Winter, you didn't tell me the whole story. Did you determine the Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch is bad? What voltage did you get at the Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch? Did you measure voltage at Pin 5 of the FPDM Connector (Black Wire) and go to a good ground? I recommended NOT measuring voltage across Pin 5 to Pin 3, but going to a good ground (like all the way back to the Negative Terminal on the Battery, if you have to). - Stiles
I could not get a voltage reading on the inertia switch. Oddly there was no voltage before it and none after it. I bench tested the switch and it was bad (open). I splice the 2 wires to it together. Then I jumpered the 2 sets of the fuel pump drive module together and the truck started and I drove it home. Now, this drive module was brand new, but looking at it closely I realized that it wasn't completely together. Now i know. Thank God. I can't even begin to tell you how much i appreciate your help. Thank you a hundred million times! Now I can finally get my life back. :)
@@StilesAutomotive I messed up and put the reply in the wrong place. It' s actually below this reply. I am not very computer literate. Sorry about that.
If I had not asked for your help nothing would have happened. If ther were Stile's automotive shops in this area I would visit every time I had a problem. Sadly there are not/ My email is fourteenthousandone at hotmail.com. Please feel free to contact me . I guess I'm a people person.@@StilesAutomotive
Glad it was helpful! I figure if you are watching a video you want to know as much as possible about the subject, including the details. The problem with troubleshooting videos like this one, is troubleshooting is like a tree with many branches. A video can show you one branch and your problem may be on another branch. Thanks for the comment - Stiles
Do those manifold gaskets ASAP man before your heads JUNK! I've become somewhat of a "pro" at fixing them for customers who attempted the job themselves ONLY to snap off studs in the heads. Also the leaking exhaust gas will eat away at the head itself and when that happens it's garbage.
Yes, very true, I think about exhaust gases hurting the Head each time I drive the F-150, seems like the Gaskets rarely leak on the Exhaust Manifold side, but leak between the gasket and the Head which is hard on the Head. I drive a Mustang in the summer, but need to do that Exhaust Manifold before winter. Thanks for the comment! - Stiles
Sogent56, You may have a "Cranks, but won't start" condition, but your Fuel System is different. You have a Fuel Pressure Regulator which controls the fuel pressure. - Stiles
You literally just saved my 07 from going to the scrap yard, I was ready to throw in the towel on the ol gal after changing fuel pump, fuel filter, throttle positioning sensor, spark plugs and coil packs i was at a complete loss till I swapped the fuel pump drive moduel.fires right up my truck (optimus) thanks you!
Joshua, I am glad to help! I appreciate the comment. Your comment gave me an idea, my neighbor down the road a ways has a very nice looking Mark LT sitting beside his garage, I now wonder if I could help him as well. - Stiles
University of TH-cam wins again! Thanks a lot for the video.
I used the paperclip over ride on the fuel module. Worked exactly as shown. Replaced the module. All is well.
Thanks again!
You are very welcome! Very good! - Stiles
You are the man. That was my exact problem on my 2008. Luckily happened at my house. Was able to diagnose and jump the FDM verifying the problem, because of your great video. Thank you so much 🤘
Jason, Glad to help, I've always said, if the video helps just one person it was worth doing! I appreciate the feedback. - Stiles
Just like everyone else on here thank you you saved me hours of work. I knew it was the fuel pump but didn’t even know about it. Wish I could add pictures it looks just like yours and mine has a hole in the back
Claude, Yep, I can't believe how the FPDM falls apart, but the Truck still runs . . . right up until it doesn't. I'm glad the video helped! I appreciate the comment! - Stiles
Thank you sooo much !! excellent video, this is second time I have to change this on a 16 year old F-150, I didnt know how to test my circuit...with paper clips is very smart !! ..I had to disconnect the battery for 2 minutes to re-start the computer. I live in uper Canada with the world record calcium-salt spreading, looks like you have to change this every 8 years...thanks again !!!
ToBloo, You are very welcome, I'm glad to help! Geez, you are my kind of Vehicle Owner; talking about period maintenance every 8 years. That is a long term vehicle owner! I the video I painted mine, I hope this helps with corrosion protection. Also Di-electric Grease on the Electrical Connector helps keep moisture out. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive Yup !...I`m just to poor or I just dont mind the scraches to go in the woods with it....Hahaha. I got a after market that was already painted. My " check engine " light is on...i just dont know if the module body needs to be grounded to the body. Maybe I could remove paint just a bit and disconnect - re-connect the battery...Thanks
That’s exactly what was wrong with my 07. I didn’t troubleshoot the circuit but replaced the driver. Good to go!
Thanks for the video!!
Glad it helped! And Thanks for the comment! - Stiles
Thank you, this is the most detailed FPDM diagnosis I found.
Glad I could help! That looks like a Pontiac in your icon, to bad that car didn't continue, it could have turned into a great performance car. The last years of the GT prove that. Thanks for the comment! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive Yes it is an 88 GT. I plan to update the engine to a 06-11 GM 3.9 to add dependability and 100 HP. finally give the car what it wants, an ok amount of power.
Not sure if this is my issue as I don't have the proper testers for fuses and pwr. It is my landlord's truck; mine broke down and he said I could put his on the road and use it for work. I paid to legalize it and it never started. Great video, finally not just someone saying hey, your fuel pump is bad lol. Been sitting for 8 months so anything could have happened. 2:30 in the morning and I'm going to just the physical condition of the module.
Papa, Ensure your Battery has a full charge.
I assume when attempting to start the F-150 you do not hear the Fuel Pump, The F-150 Cranks and will not start, get a helper to turn the Ignition Key, while you put your Ear to the Fuel Filler Opening (with the Fuel Cap removed), you should hear the Pump Run. Have the helper turn the Key on and off a few times. The Fuel Pump should cycle on and off. If it does not - -
1) With the Ignition Key off, 2) Remove the Electrical Connector from the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM), 3) Using 2 Paper Clips jumper the Positive and Negative Electrical Connector Sockets (like I showed you in the video), 4) Turn the Ignition Key "on" ( and not to "start" or the F-150 may start and run), 5) Go back to the Fuel Filler Opening and listen for a good strong Fuel Pump, 6a) If you don't hear it, it is likely the Pump, but you don't know unless you check Voltage. 6b) If you hear the Fuel Pump, go start the F-150, and it will likely run, you have bad FPDM.
Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
Thank you so much. I measured it like you said, on the fpdm, between the white wire and the black/yellow wire, with ignition off. There was 0 volts. Then I asked a helper to turn the key to the on position and voltage between the 2 pins increased to 9.4 volts. This morning I am going out to do all the rest of the things you said. I am getting ready now. I wish ford had put the central junction box somewhere else. But it is what it is, right? I can't begin to tell you how grateful I am for your help. A lot of auto repair sites leave out important things and are confusing and vague.
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Thank you so very much my 2007 had the exact problem, I did exactly what you did and used the paperclips, your video is absolutely awesome, also a great speaker, thanks again
Larry, You are very welcome, I've always said if my video helps one person, it was worth doing! I appreciate the feedback. - Stiles
Thanks. Hotwiring it to prove it is bad saved me from going for the pump
Glad I could help! I've also figured if a video helps one person, it is worth doing for me. Thanks for the comment! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive oo
Had this same problem. This is what it was. New module did the trick
Jim, I glad you got the new FPDM so you have many more enjoyable miles with your truck! - Stiles
Wow that’s really what was wrong with my truck. It’s fixed now.. Thanks
Great to hear! I've said it before, if my video helps one person, I feel like it is worth my effort. I appreciate the comment! - Stiles
Wow that WORKED. Thank you, you just made my day
Dustan, You are very welcome! Glad to help - Stiles
Excellent attention to detail in the diagnostic process!!
I appreciate the comment! - Stiles
I assume you might be an engineer. I dont even have this problem but watched the entire video because your attention to detail is AWESOME. I wish you would make a video series on DETAILED troubleshooting !!! AWESOME!!!!
Sorry, just checked your channel out. I subscribed!!
Tom, Thanks for the comment. I'm many things to many people. I've done a video on the under hood, Charging and Starting System(s) Troubleshooting, I believe it is useful to combine the two systems. The problem with troubleshooting is the branches based on different vehicles, (years, models, engines, and accessories), in other words, it is tough to do a video that includes everything that you need. I just added to my list of videos to do, "General troubleshooting approach - how to troubleshoot anything." Again, thanks for the comment. - Stiles
no he's not an engineer that's why he got it to start lol
Saved me a lot of time and aggravation thank you
Michael, You are welcome, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles
My truck is a 06 150 4x4 with a 5.4. 160000 miles. I had the turn over but not start condition. No trouble codes. No check engine light etc. I coild hear my fuel pump when key was turned on but not all the way to start. It ran for a couple seconds then stopped. I verified the pcm relay was good. All pcm and fuel related fuses were good. I replaced my fuel driver module but that was not the problem. Turned out i had a blow fuse - the one for the ignition coils. Replacing that fixed it
Carl, Thanks for the comment! As our trucks get older they are going to start showing their age. You are fortunate it was only a fuse. Sounds like you troubleshot in a logical manner, that is what I attempt to show in my videos. If you had not replaced the FPDM before, at the age of your truck I would have recommended it. Again, thanks for the comment! - Stiles
Thanks so much for doing this video! My son had his fuel pump on his 2007 F150 about 3 weeks ago, called today and said his truck wouldn't start/fire. After watching this video I had him take the gas cap off and listen for the fuel pump to run when the key was turned - no sound. Took a gamble and bought a new FP Drive Module and plugged it in - started right up! Dropped the spare tire and the old one looked exactly like the one in this video! It doesn't appear this was due to damage as mentioned in the video, it's just a flat out poor OEM design. The replacement module we got has two key improvements - 1) the housing case appeared to be plastic versus cast aluminum, and 2) it now has two rubber bushings to mount between the unit and the axle to keep it from bending/breaking. Thanks again!!!
Tim, Your new FPDM sounds like a much better design. I'm glad my video helped! Thanks for the comment. - Stiles
I must have bought the same one you did @Tim Marquart. Mine was a Dorman brand. Same story here also, mine was corroded with a 2 inch hole in it. @Stiles Automotive thanks for your video!
I have an 08 F350, crank-no start. In the last 6 months, I’ve changed the fuel pump, FPDM, plugs, coils, and fuel rail pressure sensor. Was running well finally. Went on vacation. Came back and it cranks but won’t start. Will start with fuel sprayed into intake, so seems like a fuel issue. Have checked fuses. Can hear fuel pump come on for a couple seconds when key is turned on, but still won’t start.
So frustrating since the fuses all seem good and the driver and pump are new.
Any ideas Stiles?
Mine was broken exactly like yours and i was never hit in the back. Very odd indeed. The new mounting system seems to be much better
Thanks so much for the video!! It was a life saver!
Urizon, You are very welcome, glad I could help! - Stiles
Thanks for every small details and showing and explaining everthing!
Glad it was helpful! I figure if you are watching a video you want to know as much as possible about the subject, including the details. That is were most of the questions are in the details! Thanks for the comment - Stiles
Where is the fuel pump drive module on a 1988 ford bronco, I can't fine it
Aluminum on steel. Galvanic corrosion. I’m dealing with this problem now and learning new things lol
Brandon, That and Salt on Steel are my 2 most disliked things in the world. If I had my way, the whole world would be made out of Stainless Steel . . . and well . . . a little bit of Wood, to dress it up! - Stiles
Found information concerning a turn over - no start problem leading to the fuel pump driver module under the rear spare tire. Checked this item for failure, turns out the ground wire for this module had broke off from the frame member. Several attempts to re-ground failed to start the truck. After stripping back wire jacket cover and some insulation found that in addition to the ground wire there is additionally a bare wire from the wiring cluster which wraps around the brown/black and the pink/black wires from the module plug, this bare wire is connected to the black/yellow wire which is grounded to the frame. Well my bare stranded wire had 90% frayed/broke away from the main b/y ground wire and looked frayed back to at least 3' as far as I could find while searching along the wire cluster along the driver side of A frame member. These 3 wires brwn/blk, pink/ blk and the bare stranded wire were wrapped in a silver foil like sheathing. I could not find good well insulated wire along this chase so i added a good pc of wire to the largest dia of the stranded bare wire and re-assembled it to the ground wire, taped and siliconed all splices - it worked like a charm! So it was not my Fuel Pump Driver Module YET!
Wilburt, it is amazing your truck ran as long as it did, I'm amazed my truck ran as long as it did with the way the FPDM fell apart. With the condition of your wires, I'm surprised your FPDM is in one piece. Like I say in the video, if you haven't replace the Module, you need to. Thanks for taking time to write your comment, it may help someone in the future. - Stiles
Wow! Man, your a life saver." I'm thinking it's sounds like the fuel pump, and now I know how to fined out for sure. "Thanks brother" Thumbs up, like & Subscribe."
Ok, very good! I appreciate the comment. - Stiles
Dude! You just saved me a couple hundred dollars with the jump hack! Now I know exactly what part to get and don’t have to replace my fuel pump.
Isaac, I glad I was able to help you, I figure if my video helps one person, it was worth making. This video has helped many people, I hope to do more like it! Thanks for the comment. - Stiles
Nice video! Question, can a bad fuel pump module give me a "crank no start"? I hear the pump coming on but have no Schrader valve. Tried quick start and that was a no also, new battery, camshaft positioning sensors, got about 300 on my tach. checked all fuses & relays, starter switch, safety neutral etc.. I'm lost!
Tom, sounds like no spark. The FPDM can cause a cranks, but won't start, like it did for me in the video. But you say you can hear the Fuel Pump running, take the Gas Cap off, put your ear near it and have someone else turn the Ignition Key to "on", you should hear the Fuel Pump good and strong. Next check for Spark.
Sounds like you are doing the right things, Fuses, Relays . . .
Did you Truck run after replacing the Camshaft Position Sensors?
Power at the PCM?
Quick Start is Starting Fluid? (Be careful!) If so this leads me to believe, no spark.
Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive ..Thanks for the reply! I just commented on the wrong thread lmao..But anyways, I have spark, and the first thing was changed both camshaft sensors. Finally got it running but, like a bag of cats! Got new codes, camshaft sensors all 14 test drives now along with o2 codes. Replaced the bad o2 (high voltage) cleaned the other 3. Test drive #15 and, same camshaft codes every time. Started to think I jumped time of my phasers are bad. Have no clue about phasers, though that was from star trek lol..Last time I rebuilt an engine was a 350, 25 years ago. Was able to drive it only for short tests due to how bad it's idling my last test drive it died again. Had to get it towed home. Back to a crank no start. But like I said every single tests I keep getting those camshaft codes. Now here's a funny thing, the last three mornings I was able to start it, but only for it to die right away. I started thinking fuel again!? I was about to remove the valve covers, possibly drop the pan and check my timing and phasers. But could a bad fuel module make it run sometimes, but at a very bad idle? Probably a lot easier to test then taking off the valve covers. Any feedback would be great! Once again I appreciate it Eh 🇨🇦 I've had 3 snow storms in 3 weeks, working outside, that's part of my problem.
Great job, excellent! Thank you
Dennis, You are welcome. I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles
My plug is corroded and I was wondering if I could make a jumper like you did bc it’s usually a in and an out for those models there you did it. Thanks!!
Elice, I wouldn't do that. You didn't say what F-150 you are working on, but for my 2005 F-150, 5.4L you can buy the FPDM Connector at Rock Auto (see link below). Make sure to put in your Vehicle information. - Stiles
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2005,f-150,5.4l+v8,1431304,electrical-connector,fuel+pump+drive+module+connector,15715
@@StilesAutomotive yes sir! it’s the same (2006)
I have a 2013 E-350 with the same problem, it does start, but only runs for about 10 minutes then stalls and won't restart, just turns over. If I let it sit for another 10 minutes it will start again and run for about 2 minutes. the garage thinks it's electrical, but I tend to think this is the problem. For a $50 part I'm pretty sure I can change it out myself. Thanks for the great video.
Wayne, For F-150s, If your Fuel Pump Drive Module (FPDM) is corroded at all replace it, your E-350 FPDM is not the same, it is plastic, and I'm not convinced it is the problem, it could be, but when it fails it fails. I think . . . did your shop check the fuel pressure at the Fuel Rail? Was it ok? if low pressure your Fuel Pump may be failing. or your Fuel Pressure Sensor on the Fuel Rail could be causing a problem. I showed in the video how to jumper the FPDM Electrical Connector, your Electrical Connector is different, I believe you would jumper the 2 outside Sockets of the 3, then with the Ignition Key on the Fuel Pump will run at full pressure, does your Van start and run, now? If so the Fuel Pump is ok. Yes, it is a $50 part (for your E-350, not F-150s) and I would recommend you pay the extra money for a Motorcraft Part, I don't always, but in this case I do. - Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive My shop, the local Ford dealership, thinks it is electrical due to all the extra wires under my dash, the vehicle used to be a mobility transit van with wheelchair ramp. All wires for the exterior lights and ramp were cut and taped years before we bought it. But I started it up and drove it back from them and had no problem, no stalling. It just started recently and it has been sitting in my driveway. I did buy the part directly from Ford. There has never been any electrical smell at all that I have noticed either.
Same unit on my 2010 Explorer Sport Trac. Replaced last month with 115000 mi.
Tim, thanks for the comment! - Stiles
I'm only getting 8 volts on that white wire coming into the module in the back. I do have 12 volt on the inertia switch. Any idea how to figure out why? My module looks just like yours cracked and broken and I have no start with no sound from the fuel pump on key.. looks so similar to yours even the crossmember funk is the same.
Alex, you could have a bad white Wire, but I think a most likely cause is a dirty Electrical Connector (C3138) on the outside of the frame on the Driver's Side located about midpoint between the Front and Rear Wheels, it is under a black plastic Cover. It may be worth your time to remove the Cover Clean the area and disconnect each Electrical Connector there, Clean with electrical contact Cleaner, and apply generous amounts of di-electric grease to the Connector, then reconnect them. I'd be interested to know if you get 12 volts at the FPDM. Let me know how it goes. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive so what I was finding today is I only have 13 volts when I jumper the grounds in that module connector. Which actually I think makes sense doesn't it? If I just try to test the five pin for power I get 7 volts until I jumper the two grounds on the opposite side of the connector together and then I see 13. I assume that makes sence. I'm thinking about just hooking 12 volt power from a battery directly to the pump terminals to make sure.
Excellent job
Meon, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles
Where did you get that wiring diagram?
Brosephski, I think I just Googled, "2005 F-150 Wiring Diagram", that is a Page out of the Ford Wiring Diagram Manual. I quickly found a colored version at wiringdiagram.2bitboer.com. - Stiles
Replaced fpdm, replaced fuel rail pressure sensor I’m getting fault code P0191 fuel pump is brand new as well. Truck will run fine for a minute then start to stumble and shut off at times. 2004 Ford F-150 4.6
Did you replace the Fuel Filter? Put a gauge on the Fuel Rail to help determine what is happening. Key on, Engine off you should see 35-45 psi, with the Engine running 28-55 psi. If you don't have a problem with your Fuel Lines you have good pressure at the Fuel Rail. Then I suspect an intermittent wiring problem. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive found FPDM was faulty returned it to the auto store and swapped it for a new one, truck runs like née now. I confirmed by checking voltage at connector and jumping connectors
@@bigbrooklyn25 Very good! - Stiles
Mine just cranks but slowly. What could I possibly check? I already jumped the positive and negative sides of my starter, also benched my starter out the car and it's OK, but still nothing.
Evan, the first thing is ensure you have a good Battery and it is fully charged. My Stiles Automotive Video, Charging and Starting Systems Troubleshooting may help you (see link below) - Stiles
Charging & Starting Systems Troubleshooting: Engine Fails to Crank or Cranks Slow, May or Not Click th-cam.com/video/POAIX4QaEhA/w-d-xo.html
If I just plug in the new gadget without mounting it will it work? Will it know it’s not
Mounted and not
Work?
Brandon, I mentioned this in the video, when I talked about painting the new FPDM. I left the spot where the Mounting Bolt contacts the FPDM Base, un-coated so that if the Module is grounded thru the Base that there would be a good ground. I think that it is. And I think that it will not work properly if not mounted. Let me know if you tried it and what happened. Be sure to coat your new Module to prevent corrosion. - Stiles
Thanks for the experience Great video. I'm having similar problem I changed mass air flow sensor and it started right up and run fine I though I fixed the problem, I shut it off and started it up again and it started just fin. But then THE PROBLEM STARTED APPEARING AGAIN AFTER 40 MINUTES CRANKS BUT WON'T START. Now am just sitting here scratching my head 🙃 it feels like its upside down
I don't think you can install the Mass Airflow Sensor upside down, but see my video as a reference, Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Cleaning - Motorcraft AFLS131 {#3L3Z12B579BA} '04 thru '08 F-150 Trucks 5-4L th-cam.com/video/zS9J2GGHSSg/w-d-xo.html I hope this helps! - Stiles
Mine has intermittently cranked but didn't start a few different times. I tried a couple of times and it started. Wonder if this is my issue. Might take a look and swap it out if it looks bad. 205k and rusty so I'd guess that's the issue.
Moto, Yep replace it if corroded at all, clean the Electrical Connector and grounds, check the Wiring Harness to the FPDM (from Frame to FPDM). - Stiles
I tested both the ground the black and white and the power the white one...the ground one isn't making the circuit light up so I don't know we're to go from there now
Marcos, Your message is a little confusing. This may help you. Reference the Wiring Diagram starting at 2:19 of my video. There are 6 Wires, your colors may vary from mine, but should be very similar, these number correspond to the pins on the FPDM Connector: 1) & 6) are control signal wires from the Powertrain Control Module to the Fuel Pump Driver Module (these are the 2 small wires in the center of the connector), 5) White, power to the FPDM (should be battery voltage with the Key "on"), 3) Black, ground (this is the only true ground, meaning to chassis ground), 2) Brown w/white stripe (or BN-WH) (this is the power to the Fuel Pump from the FPDM, 4) Pink w/Black stripe (or PK-BK) (this is the negative from the Fuel Pump to the FPDM, this is not a chassis ground). Does this help? - Stiles
Yes the 3)black ground doesn't light up when I test it...we got a mechanic he change the fuel pump and the truck still cranks but won't start
Great diagnostic job
Great repair work also
Great video you made
Thanks for the comment! I hope the video saves you from a problem in the future! - Stiles
So, I changed my plugs with no problem, using the Motorcraft SP-546 plugs. My truck was running ok with a slight miss before changing them. No after I changed them, the truck will start fine, I take it for a test drive, and about a block away, it dies. It cranks and cranks but no start. I let it sit for a few minutes, and it starts, and I'm able to get to get it home. I am confused!
Sutton, The first thing a Military Mechanic asks the Equipment Operator is, "what is the last thing you touched?" I'm trying to think what you could have done, but your problem sounds like a Fuel Problem, not a Spark Plug or Coil (CoP) problem. You commented on my "2004 thru 2008" F-150 Video; First, what Year, Model and Engine do you have? When you removed the Number 4 Coil and Spark Plug (Passenger's Side Back), did you remove the PCM? Did you remove the Electrical Connectors on the PCM? Did you touch the wires on the Electrical Connectors on the PCM. The "let it sit for a few minutes" doesn't sound electrical to me, sounds Fuel or Heat related and you didn't drive it far so, likely not heat. I'd love to know the Fuel Pressure on the Engine Fuel Rail during this cycle of run, die, crank and no start, and run. - Stiles
I took my truck to a service garage and had it put on diagnostics and they said it was the fuel pump driver module. So to make sure I jumped the ineg to neg pos to pos on the clip and still nothing. However I put the test light on the clip and did have power coming from the fuse box.. That being said why did my pump not kick in when I by passe the module by using jumpers?
Lou, I'm not sure why your Fuel Pump didn't run, I showed you the 6 Pin Connector in the video and if you have Battery voltage at the FPDM Connector, your Fuel Pump should have run. Your Fuel Pump could be bad, HOWEVER, this is much less likely. This video is talking about the 2004 thru 2008 F-150 and if you have NOT replaced your FPDM yet. I highly recommend you doing so. Even, in the event you find the Fuel Pump bad.
1) Make sure you have Battery voltage at the FPDM Connector using a Volt Meter, should read 11 to 12.6 Volts. If you don't you need to find out why.
2) Make sure you have a good Ground. Measure continuity to Ground.
3) And . . . make sure you inspect the FPDM Wiring Harness from the Truck Frame to the FPDM. Make sure it looks good and re-rap it with Electrical Tape.
Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive hi.
I have been looking your video. unfortunately I am not a mechanic but I am trying to get help. I have a2009 Ford F150 4.6L that cranks but won't start since a hit a loading dock. A mechanic couldn't find a reset switch but said the fuel pump was bad. I didn't agree but he replaced it anyway. I also put a new battery but still no luck to start it.
if you can help I will appreciate. Thank you
Mo
@@mamedaourndiaye2816 Mo, It sounds like you shipped your 2009 F-150 on a boat, I know about shipping Military Vehicles on Ocean-going Boats. Military Vehicles experience a harsh environment depending on which deck they are on. I would expect your F-150 would be treated better, but still be subject to moisture and salt air.
I believe you are correct when talking about a Reset Switch, which is really a Fuel Shut-Off Switch. Your 2009 F-150, is not like my 2005 F-150, I have a Physical Shut-off Switch, you do not. Your F-150 is similar to my 2013 Mustang. I believe your F-150 experience a bump which may have triggered this Fuel Shut-off Feature.
Reference your Owner's Manual Page 313 & 314 (I copy it here):
FUEL PUMP SHUT-OFF
In the event of a moderate to severe collision, this vehicle is equipped
with a fuel pump shut-off feature that stops the flow of fuel to the
engine. Not every impact will cause a shut-off.
Should your vehicle shut off after a collision due to this feature, you may
restart your vehicle by doing the following:
1. Turn the ignition switch to the off position.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the on position.
In some instances the vehicle may not restart the first time you try to
restart and may take one additional attempt.
Also, because your Truck is similar to my 2013 Mustang, my Mustang Video will help you:
Mustang After Accident, Fuel Shutoff Procedure - 2005 thru 2014 Ford Mustangs th-cam.com/video/87NdhFFM_Lc/w-d-xo.html
If this doesn't do it, your Mechanic needs to determine if the Fuel Pump is Running and you have fuel pressure at the Fuel Rail on the Engine. And determine if you have Ignition Spark.
Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
I can't find fuel pump module on 2004 f 350 it is not at the rear by passenger tire where else could it be
Richard, what Engine does your F-350 have? On first thought, the 1999 (or so) thru 2004 F-350 gas Engines have a Fuel Supply Line (or Pressure side) and a Fuel Return Line. Which means you have a Fuel Pressure Regulator. The Regulator in on the Fuel Rail on the Top of the Engine or on the Fire Wall just behind the Engine. If I'm wrong tell me your Engine Size, I'll have a look in the Parts Book. - Stiles
Is it safe to drive to the parts store with the paper clip (jumpers) in ?
Mit, I wouldn't if you can find a ride to the Parts Store. Is it just a couple of miles? In my younger days I probably would have tried it. Your Fuel Pump will continue to run with the key on, which will over pressurize the Fuel System. Best case, your Engine will run Fuel Rich. Will it hurt the Fuel System, probably not, it should handle the extra pressure. Will it hurt the Fuel Pump, probably not for a few miles. Will it hurt the injectors or push one open (and introduce excessive Fuel into the Engine?), probably not. In the end, it would be best to get a ride from someone. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
What's the difference between a fuel pressure regulator and a fuel pressure sensor
Juan, a Fuel Pressure Regulator is a mechanical device that control the Fuel pressure by returning some Fuel back to the Fuel Tank. A Fuel Pressure Sensor sends a signal to the Fuel Pump Driver Module to regulate or control the fuel pressure. The Fuel System that uses the Regulator has a Fuel Return Line and the System that uses the Sensor does not. - Stiles
Mine I check all fuse and they fine I did the jumper with the 2 wires and pump still not working I did take the pump out and I did conected directly to power and turn on but when I plugged to the wire connector to the truck is not turning on
Jesus, Check continuity from the FPDM Connector to the Fuel Pump Connector, and check the Voltage at the Fuel Pump Connector. The Wiring Harness to the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) takes a lot of flexing and is likely bad or has a break in it. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive sir thank you for taking the time to answer I did replace the pump and is working fine on mine was the fuel pump that was bad but I did learn a lot from your video thank you sir
I have a 07 f150 5.4, oil pump failed so i swapped that out and now i have the cranks, no start issue, can’t figure out what it could be
James, Start out like I did in the video, check fuses. I point out the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Fuses and the Fuel System Fuses. Did you damage a Wiring Harness or leave a Ground Wire off went replacing the Oil Pump? I think my Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) failed went I was working on my F-150 and rocking the truck. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
Thank you for the video I knew this could be the possible culprit and I think it is one day the trucks running like a top next morning crank no start..everyone was telling me fuel pump but I have a full tank! So I started searching checked fuzes and used your diagram and viola I have one as well rotted out! Ford should issue a recall for these parts. Yes it’s corrosion but what if my wife was driving with the kids and the truck died on the highway! Anyways Thankyou!
I agree, or at least there should be a Ford Service Bulletin out there and everytime one of these Ford Trucks goes near a Ford Dealer Service Department, the Manager should be offering to replace it, if it hasn't been replaced before. You are welcome and Thanks for the comment! - Stiles
2006 f150 will not start with starter fluid. Could this still be the problem?
Angie, even if your Engine wouldn't run on Starter Fluid, it should still pop off or try to run. Be careful using Starter Fluid! I'd look to see if your Engine has spark at the Spark Plugs. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive the truck was only drove a few times over the last few years. Drove it about 30 miles and the engine shut off. It tried to crank only a few times. It was very loud. Now it wont turn over at all. Power comes on when you turn key. No check engine light and no codes. The battery is new. We are thinking it’s the engine. Thank you for responding
Can I use the car with the jumpers in?
Paul, I wouldn't unless there is no other way. Your Engine will run very rich (meaning to much fuel per parts of air) which will likely cause a runability problem. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive
Thanks !!
Ben Soto ... my truck just did the same thing it crank but won't start , same problem you had. this video will help me figure if is the fpdm. I hope it is .. will get back to you.. my truck is a 2006 4 door supercrew cab
Benjamin, If they use salt on your roads, chances are it is the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM). Under any conditions, for a 2004 thru 2008 F-150 with Cranks but won't start condition, the most like cause is the FPDM. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
Hi, please help me. I have 08 f150. Crank, but no Start. Every morning, it will start for 5 seconds and shutoff then never starts again.
So I check the driver pump module, it looks bad. I bypass with wires like you did. I heard the fuel pump running, but when I tried to start the truck it still wouldn't start.
What could be my issues? I removed the fuel pressure sensor, I see gas in the rail.
Erad, Makes me wonder how much Fuel you have at the Fuel Rail, Can you get a Fuel Pressure Gauge and read the pressure at the Fuel Rail? First do this; After you experience the "start for 5 seconds and shutoff", cycle the Ignition Key on and off (like priming the Fuel System after running out of Fuel, turn Key "On" 1, 2, 3, 4, turn Key "Off" 1, 2, do this 5 times), now start the Truck. If it runs, your Fuel Pump could be weak, (I don't know what it sounds like), has your Fuel Filter either been replaced? If you have good Fuel Pressure at the Fuel Rail, I suspect the Fuel Pressure Switch.
Your FPDM may still be working, but if it "looks bad" replace it and clean the mounting location and electrical connector. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive thank you for your reply. I did everything you mentioned except for the checking of the fuel pressure. I do not have the machine to do that option.
I installed the new fuel module today. The truck started once and dies. Then never start again, but cranks.
I have order the Fuel Pressure Sensor attached to the Rail. I will see what happens after. I am a little worried because I saw some videos online that people disconnected the fuel pressure sensor and their truck started and runs. Mine does not when I disconnected it.
@@StilesAutomotive Also, I have checked all the fuses and relays. The engine doesn't start to warm up enough to get a code. So, NO fault code is available. It's always shows testing is not complete
@@StilesAutomotive Hi bro, so I changed fuel pressure sensor, and the throttle body and the sensor.
It still does the same thing, started and dies after 3 seconds and never start again.
I removed the fuel pressure sensor by the fuel rail again, I cranked it, there's high pressure fuel flying out. So I know it getting enough fuel. I hear click from relays and fuses are good. Please what is the next thing to do. If timing chain is going bad, will it start at all? Remember, it always starts once at first attempt every day.
Great video thanks!
Ted, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles
Thanks alot for the help.
Doward, You are very welcome! - Stiles
I am having the same issue but my wiring colors are a bit different. Should I still connect it the same way you did.
My Truck is a 2005, other years use different color, but the Electrical Connector Positions are the same and the gauge (or size / thickness) of the wires are different. Your Wire gauge is like mine. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
I have a 2006 f150 5.4 that will not start unless I use fluid. Then run and drive like normal. fuel pressure is between 38.5 to 40.0 while running. When no start the fuel pressure does not rise. 3 seconds of ether it fires up and has good fuel pressure. Any help
Young, I haven't heard of that exact problem before, probably because I'm not big on using Starting Fluid on Gas Engines, Diesel Engine sometimes, but not Gas. I suspect if you don't have a wiring issue, that you have a problem with your Pressure Sensor on the Fuel Rail. - Stiles
La otra falla que hace cuando rueda , al cabo de unoa minutos pierde potencia y la apagó y prendo de nuevo y anda bien luego vuelve a fallar y asi susecibamente .
User, I used Google Translate to get, "The other fault that occurs when it rolls, after a few minutes it loses power and I turned it off and turned it on again and it runs fine then it fails again and so on."
Yes, that also sounds like a fuel problem, either the FPDM, Fuel Pump, or Fuel Pressure Sensor.
I translate: Sí, eso también suena como un problema de combustible, ya sea el FPDM, la bomba de combustible o el sensor de presión de combustible. - Stiles
Unfortunately I replaced the FPDM and it is still crank/no start whats next? I did the jump for the fuel pump and got it to prime/run but still couldn't crank the engine with it jumped.
I for sure thought it was the FPDM with how badly corroded it was but I'm still only able to start once its warmed up outside.
David, You have to be more specific for me to help you, You said "it is still a crank/no start" then in the next sentence "still couldn't crank". A crank and no start condition means the Engine turns over with the Starter, but the Engine fails to run or fire. This means you are not putting into the Engine: Air, Fuel or Spark, (assuming no other mechanical failures). Air is easy and likely not the issue unless the Truck has been sitting a long time. Fuel or Spark, you are working the Fuel Side if looking at the FPDM, Yep replace it if corroded at all, clean the Electrical Connector and grounds, check the Wiring Harness to the FPDM (from Frame to FPDM), check Fuel Pressure at the Fuel Rail (with the FPDM connector jumpered like in the video), if low Pressure, Fuel Pump is at Fault, if good Pressure, Fuel Pressure Sensor on the Fuel Rail is likely the problem. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive thanks for the response and sorry for the confusing comment, it cranks but no start even with the FPDM jumped with 20 amp fuses. When I jumped it the fuel pump was running, do I need to check the actual pressure at the rail or will jumping the FPDM and attempting to start be enough?
Could I disconnect the fuel pressure sensor on the rail to test it that way?
I plan on replacing the fuel filter since it's been awhile as well. I also swapped fog lamp relay and PCM relay but still crank no start.
Thanks again!
So question if that module doesn't look damage how domu know if its the module or just a bad pump . My car does exactly wat this car does 2004 expedition crank and cranks nut no start at all please help im on fix income on disability and lots of doctors appointments thank u in advance for your help
Jesus, You know if the Fuel Pump is bad because you jumper the wires (like I show in the video) and the Fuel Pump will run or if the Fuel Pump doesn't run and you are powering it, it is likely the Pump. - Stiles
Hi, I have a 04 f150 4.6 v8 heritage, I'm having a intermittent crank and start, it has been checked with Scan tools at a dealership, the tech could not find any code's, I asked the service manager if it could be the fuel pump driver module when I picked up the truck, he didn't know, what would you recommend I do ?.
Vernon, Sorry for the late reply (I normally get to your type of question with in 24 hrs), I was down range. The Spark side (and PCM side) of your problem, often results in a OBDII code, but the Fuel Side (ie Pressure Sensor, Fuel Pump Driver Module and Fuel Pump) does not.
Intermittent problems are hard to diagnose, I'd love to know your Fuel Pressure at the Fuel Rail. 1) Fuel Pumps can get old a flow less fuel, but normally don't fail this way, they stop all together. 2) Like I stated in my Video that you are commenting on (and the reason for the video) if you haven't replaced your FPDM, I'd do so, but You need to pay attention to the wires (intermittent problems are very often broken wires or bad grounds), remove the Electrical Tape and Harness Wrap from the Driver Module to the mounting location on the Truck Frame and inspect the wires, clean the connectors, re-wrap them with Electrical Tape. 2a) on the Left (Driver's) Side Frame (and on the outside of Frame) and mid-way between the wheels is a Plastic Cover that protects Harness Connectors, clean the connectors there. 3) You have a Fuel Pressure Sensor on the Fuel Rail on the Engine. It could be going bad or maybe dirty, in either case replace it.
For the FPDM and the sensor, I would only use Ford Motorcraft Parts. Use a lot of a good connector cleaner like this one: QD Contact Cleaner CRC amzn.to/3DKfOQ3
Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
I have one of these trucks in the middle of the jungle in Guatemala and have been fighting fuel pump issues for 3 months now with no success. I managed to get a hold of a brand new fuel pump module but either it's not grounding correctly or it's not receiving commands from the computer. I use jumper wires on the connector pin two to five and three to four like you say in the video and the truck starts and runs. I left it in there and tried to drive down the street but after 2 or 3 times maybe 10 minutes total running the brand new Bosch fuel pump burnt out. Is it safe to assume that the fuel pump was under too much stress because there is no return line? Is there no way to Jimmy rig this thing to work? I'm on dirt roads in the middle of the jungle maybe 15 mile per hour max speed, I'm just looking for a way to make it start.
Alex, You didn't say the model year and engine of your F-150. The Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) pulses the Fuel Pump on and off to regulate the fuel pressure. Yes, if you run the Fuel Pump continually with no pressure regulation your Fuel Pump will likely prematurely fail. Your new FPDM grounds thru the Mounting Bolts to the Truck crossmember. Removing the Bolts and reinstalling them on a new FPDM likely has a good enough ground, however, you should remove it and clean the Mounting Bolts, new FPDM and the Crossmember at the mounting location with a Wire Brush. You should clean the FPDM Electrical Connector (like I did in the video) with Contact Cleaner and use Dielectric Grease on it.
With that said, I think your real problem is . . . You didn't mention any fault codes or Check Engine Light . . . and you should have for this problem . . . but, I believe you have a bad Fuel Injection Pressure Sensor, (below is the link to the Rock Auto Page for my 2005 F-150 5.4L Sensor, buy/order using your Truck information). This Pressure Sensor is located on the Engine Fuel Rail, Mine is on the Leftside (Driver's Side) of the Air Filter Housing, behind the Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. You should normally get a Fault Code for this sensor, but maybe you didn't. When you replace it, again, clean the Electrical Connector and apply Di-electric Grease.
Next, if the above didn't fix your problem, Clean the Electrical Connector(s) (I need to do a video on this, but have not) under the Plastic Cover on the outside of the Frame on the Leftside (Driver's Side) of the Truck. These Connectors, joint the Rear Harnesses to the Front Harnesses on the Truck and can became corroded. You should clean and Dielectric Grease these some day, anyway. Even if you fix the problem.
There is more, if you still have a problem you need to clean the Grounds and Electrical Connectors on the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM is located in the Engine Compartment near the Battery on the Firewall. Be careful, don't clean the Connectors if you don't need to, you could damage the PCM Connector Pins. But, Someday if you replace the Battery, clean the PCM Grounds with a Wire Brush and coat with Anti-seize.
If it comes to cleaning PCM Connectors, do a continuity check on the Signal Wire from the PCM to the FPDM, these are the 2 smaller wires I point out in the video.
There is not a easy way to jerry-rig or bypass this system.
Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2005,f-150,5.4l+v8,1431304,fuel+&+air,fuel+injection+pressure+sensor,6376
Sounds the same on my 2000 Ford Expedition but mine I connect the battery cables the wrong way could’ve the same solution?
If you connected the Battery Cables backward you likely caused other damage, may be Fuse protected you, but I'd be worried about the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) first. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
04 F150 All lights on the dash work with the radio. Headlights work. I turn the key to the on position and nothing happens. No crank, no start, no nothing. FPDM?
Michael, No, not the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM), it is the Starter, Battery Low Voltage (or bad) or the Alternator (causing the low Battery voltage). Although the Headlights and Dash Light work, your Battery may not have the power to turn-over the Engine. - Stiles
Could be neutral safety switch 😮
Does a 1999 f150 4.2L 6cyl. Have this part?
Happy, No, your Fuel System is different. The newer System doesn't have a Fuel Return Line and this FPDM (Fuel Pump Driver Module) acts to control the fuel pressure. Your Fuel System has a both a Fuel Return Line and a Fuel Regulator to control the fuel pressure. - Stiles
I pulled the #5 keep alive fuse believing it was neccesary to calibrate the new blender actuator door and now I have a no crank no start with a u1900 code stored.
Any suggestions?
I think the ket was turned to on when I pulled it. Might have been a mistake now thinking back on it.
JD, Yep with the key on and the system powered you confused the PCM into thinking it has a CAN Bus fault. 1) Try using a Scan Tool to clear the Fault, 2) if it will not clear, attempt to Clear the PCM memory, (With the Terminals disconnected, touch the 2 Battery Terminals together for 10 seconds, be sure to remove the Negative Battery Terminal first [as always!] ). Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
What did you use for the jumper wires just bent paper clips?
Ed, Yep, just paper clips, I only ran the truck this way for a minute to verify the Fuel Pump worked and the truck ran. I did not move the truck. - Stiles
When I put paper clips into the module and turned the key it started to smoke ...
You, my friend, probably have a dead short in your wires or more likely in your Fuel Pump itself, be careful! Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive would my next step actually be changing out the fuel pump? Backstory, truck sat with a drained fuel tank for 4-5 years. I brought it home, poured about 10 gals into it. Fuel gauge needle isn’t picking up either..cranking but not starting
@@boostedjdmem1 When you put the jumpers in, you put them in correctly, ground to ground and power to power? If you jumper this right, the Fuel Pump should run continuously. If it doesn't you have a bad wire or bad pump, Because the Fuel Pump sat for so long, if you take it out and play with it, it may run again. - Stiles
So does it have to be put on to get ground having that problem I bought it but didn’t put it on the frame just plug it but didn’t work wondering if I should put it on frame
@@elieli1347 I don't think it is grounded thru the frame, but when I painted mine, I kept one mounting hole free from paint in case it is grounded thru the frame. - Stiles
Thinking of getting a 2004 WT base model.... Owner says it's getting fuel and it's turning over but it won't crank..what you reckon that is?
yawotton, Look to the simple things first. Fuel and spark, how do you know it's getting fuel? and are you getting spark. Did you owner hear any noises when it last ran? - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive one of these Facebook marketplace deals 🙄... I ask about the fuel pump and he said it's working... Got it from the owner as payment...yeah one of those deals... wasn't catching when he got it
I’ve got question. I got a f 150 5.4 l and the truck won’t start but the electronics is on tho but when I turn the key all I hear is click and nothing happens what could be the problem?
What kind of click? A click like in the video? that's the Fuel Pump Relay, or a Click, Click, Click of the starter. For either, the simple answer is a low Battery condition. Make sure your Battery has a full charge, if it doesn't, charge it and determine why it doesn't - Stiles
I tested my module with the jumpers, and I can hear the pump with the key in but it won’t start my truck. What would be my next step in this process
Did you check for OBDII Fault Codes? If you are sure you are getting fuel to the engine, you need to check for spark, a no spark condition has many potential causes. If your FPDM is corroded and never replaced, I'd replace it now, while you are looking at it. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive my fault code is p1299, engine was getting to hot. I just relaxed spark plugs 6 months ago so they shouldn’t be a problem. My module doesn’t look corroded but I am going to replace it just to see
@@StilesAutomotive I don’t know if I’m for sure getting fuel to the engine. When the FPDM is hot wired, I can hear my fuel pump. That’s a good sign, but not a definitive measure of it working?! Correct? Or could it still be the problem if a new FPDM doesn’t fix it
@@cameroncopeland8919 Cameron, we need to backup. You overheated your engine (04 thru 08 F-150) and now you have a cranks but won't start condition? Tell me more. What happened after you overheated the engine, you drove home . . . Truck hasn't started since? What you say in your other comment is true, just 'cause the pump runs doesn't mean you are getting sufficient fuel pressure at the fuel rail, however, you can tell a lot from the sound of the pump. You can tell if it is strong and hitting hard, or if it is slow and laboring. Often when the fuel pump fails, it fails. Back to the other side, Spark, if you have a no spark condition, the fault is not likely the spark plugs or the individual coil on plug coils. It is a PCM fault or a sensor telling the PCM not to fire (or a bad wire). - Stiles
Cameron, see your other comment for a reply! - Stiles
Very helpful.
Don, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles
Is this problem on 91 too?
Trainnerd, No, your Fuel System is different. The newer System doesn't have a Fuel Return Line and this FPDM (Fuel Pump Driver Module) acts to control the fuel pressure. Your Fuel System has a both a Fuel Return Line and a Fuel Regulator to control the fuel pressure. - Stiles
I got same problem but 03 cadillac truck i cannot figure out wtf it is starter good because it cranks battery good all lights turn on it has oil i hear the fuel pump and i was just driving the truck turned it off went and got my niece from school came back out to truck got in and took off about a half mile down the block it died wouldnt start back up fuses and relays are good like wtf lol
Villain, that sounds like a fuel or spark related problem, because it just died. It also sounds like you are doing the right things, checking Fuses and Relays. Back to Basics: for a engine to run you must put in Air, Fuel, and Spark. Unless the car hasn't run in months you know it is getting Air. Spark you can check at the Spark Plug. Fuel check Fuel pressure at the Fuel Rail.
You didn't mention any Check Engine Lights or Fault Indication. This might lead you to a Sensor Failure or other indication.
Did you hear any noises at all prior to the Engine dying? if no, ok, but, if yes, could be something more serious like Camshaft Timing.
Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive no noises at all never had a problem with the truck at all it started for a second then died it wants to start again but wont which makes me think its the fuel pump i put little gas in incase my gauge is faulty still nothing im pretty sure its the fuel pump though ill keep u updated after i replace it
@@StilesAutomotive okay update lol so got a fuel pump installed it replaced the fuel filter put new relays and checked fuses it started up finally and drives but its still dyeing when driving and guess what now my 2002 Denali is doing the exact same thing but the starter relay was busted when i move it the truck cranks wont start kinds weird so went and bought a new relay now it wont even crank but all the lights go on on the denali this is BS lol
Put fuse box on my 2006 f 150 everything lights up no crank
Denise, You installed a new Fuse Panel in your F-150? If so sounds like you need to verify everything is hooked up correctly. - Stiles
I change my module and the fuel rail sensor it started drove to store parked it. Next morning not working. Took the module off and reconnected started but then it went off ... smh heeellllpppp😅😅😅
Bebo, I wonder if that isn't a grounding problem. I'd clean (with a wire brush) the FPDM base, the Mounting Point on the Frame, and the Bolts. Have you had any luck fixing your truck? - Stiles
Thank you sir.
Bob, you are very welcome! - Stiles
11:42 its called jack rust
Scaper, Yep, I sure it comes thru in my videos . . . I hate rust. - Stiles
Thanks the work for me .....
You're welcome! Glad it helped! - Stiles
Fixed me up right. TYVM for the vid my friend saved me a mech visit and I am sure a couple hundo.
Glad I could help! I figure if the video helps one person, it is worth it to me. Thanks for the comment! - Stiles
Replaced my fuel rail pressure sensor and the fuel pump driver module still no start fuel pump is not turning on ....smh
Enjoy, did you try using a jumper at the FPDM like I showed in the video? Did it run strong? Do you have 12 Volts at the FPDM? Did you ensure the Impact Switch is ok and not actuated? - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive I did turned out my pump was bad
Thanks think it's my problem rusty 242000 miles from canada
James, of course it depends on what part of Canada you are from. I lived in Fargo ND for a couple of years and they used very little salt on the road in the winter. In most of the Midwest the Road Commission puts a LOT of salt on the roads, which cause a LOT of corrosion on vehicles. The F-150 FPDM is mounted in a position that gets salt on it but doesn't it wash water on it to clean it. As you can see from my video, my FPDM fell apart when I removed it. A word to the wise, if you have 242,000 miles on your F-150 and you haven't replaced the Module, do it as soon as you can. Best wishes for your "rusty problem". - Stiles
When I turn the key to start position I get approximately 9 volts on the white wire from the fuel pressure drive module. Is that sufficient voltage to run the fuel pump? Or is there a voltage drop somewhere that is keeping the (new) fuel pressure drive module from receiving enough voltage to power the fuel pump? Your video is the best one I'v e seen. Thank you one million times. Please help me with this voltage problem. It's like you said, engine cranks but don't run. It's a 2006 ford f150 5.4 litre. I have watched about 30 video's so far and spent a week trying to get this truck to start, including jumpering the 2 sets of outside pins on the fuel pressure drive module, which did cause it to start, plus verifying grounds , fuses, wiring, etc. Again, thank you so much for any help you can offer.
Winter, Glad to help. We want close to Battery Voltage at the FPDM Connector White Power Input Wire, Socket 5. Voltage drop a few tens is ok, that's Battery Voltage minus 0.2 to 0.4 Volts. We want 12 Volts at that Socket. We need to be clear, you said "from" the FPDM, the White Wire is "to" the FPDM. If you are talking about the Brown-White Wire "from" the FPDM and "to" the Fuel Pump, that's different, I don't think you are. How did you measure 9 Volts at the White Wire at Socket 5 and using the Socket 3 (Black Wire) Ground like I did my video? If so you need to measure measure voltage again, using a good ground, use a wire and go all the way to the Battery Negative Terminal if you have to. You wrote about grounds, did you find and clean the ground on the Black Wire at the FPDM Connector? I didn't do this in my video. If you still measure 9 Volts at the FPDM Connector, measure voltage before and after (both wires) on the Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch (left-side of the Fuse Panel, shown in video). Is all that clear?
1) Measure Voltage at Socket 5 (White Wire) of FPDM Connector using good ground.
2) If 11.8 to 12.6 Volts, goto step 3, if 9 Volts goto step 4.
3) Clean ground at Truck Frame from FPDM Connector and verify Black Ground Wire is ok.
4) Measure Voltage at Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch (before and after) should be Battery Voltage on both.
5) If 11.8 to 12.6 Volts - likely White Wire to FPDM Connector is bad. If 9 Volts we need to look at why.
I look forward to your reply - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive Thank you so much. I am going to do all these things you said this morning . I am getting ready to go out to the truck right now. I think ford should not have put the central junction box in such an inconvenient place, but it is what it is. Also, to answer your question, I measured the voltage by turning the ignition to the on position and testing between the white wire to the blk/yello wire, and that's where i got 9 volts. When I returned the key to the off position there was no voltage.
Yep, that's what I thought. So, I'm asking you to eliminate the Ground Contact Point and Ground Wire as a problem. - Stiles
What if it starts with old one but not the new one
Paul, Can you verify you bought the correct part number? I know there are several Ford Part Numbers of the FPDM that look similar. I don't know if they are different generations of the same part, but think that are different FPDMs for different Ford Vehicles. If you have the correct part, look for bent pins on your new Module. I don't think the Module grounds through the base of the Module, so that shouldn't be an issue. I'd be interested to know if the old Module drives (or turns on) the Fuel Pump continuously. This would mean it failed on, and you may not be receiving a signal from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Let me back up to verify. With the new FPDM the truck doesn't run, but if you go back to the old FPDM is does run again? Or, it did run with the old FPDM, now doesn't run with either the new or old FPDMs? For the first case, this is what I was talking about above. For the second case, you likely blew a fuse and need to check fuses 34 (20 amp PCM Power) and Fuse 5 (7.5 amp PCM Keep Alive). Hope this help, let me know how your troubleshooting goes. - Stiles
remeber to change your fuel filter at the same time
Meg, Ok, yep, good tip. - Stiles
this part whats name please
Gurmeet, this part is the Fuel Pump Driver Module or FPDM. Look in the video description for link to the Amazon Page for more information and to purchase. - Stiles
Thanks so much!! This is exactly what was preventing crank no start issue. You’re a awesome and blessing!! I really appreciate your help sir. Wish you the best!! Question: what happens if we leave the jumper in and drive it while waiting for a new FPDM? Will that be a bad idea? Thanks a ton kind sir!!
I might run the truck with the 2 x Jumpers installed (protect them from shorting out), if I had to run the Truck to get home. You are not regulating the Fuel, so the engine will be run "rich" which means it is getting to much fuel. I wouldn't do this for very long. You could easily get a tow truck to get you home. You are welcome, thanks for the comment! - Stiles
I have this problem, but my pump does click.
Alex, My truck was running fine until the fuel pump didn't run at all. When the FPDM fails it can cause intermittent engine problems and a fault code in the OBDII display. My truck did not indicate any fault codes and from my video my FPDM broke in half and smaller pieces when removed. - Stiles
My 54 Triton starts runs for about 5 seconds and then turns off
Paul, Sounds like a fuel related problem, if it was electrical it wouldn't run at all. Pressure Switch on the Fuel Rail, Fuel Pump, non-venting Fuel Tank, unlikely but Restricted Fuel Filter. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
great video good work
Thanks, I appreciate the comment! - Stiles
I cant find my inertia switch
Kris, Really? Ok, I give up, what vehicle are you looking for an Inertia Switch on? Newer Fords don't have one, check out my Stiles Automotive Video: Mustang After Accident, Fuel Shutoff Procedure - 2005 thru 2014 Ford Mustangs th-cam.com/video/87NdhFFM_Lc/w-d-xo.html - Stiles
Replaced module still won't start only starts with jumper wires
Donnie, That tells me the most likely problem is the Fuel Pressure Sensor on the Fuel Rail on the Top of the Engine. It could possibly be a Wiring problem or a problem with the Powertrain Control Module, but not as likely. Did you make sure the case (the body) of the new FPDM is well ground to the Mounting Point on the Crossmember? Is the Electrical Connection on the FPDM ok? no Pins bent? - Stiles
I followed the video and did the same thing. Now I hear the fuel pump coming on, but the truck still won’t start.
Nick, you are not giving me much to go on. You have to give the Engine: Air, Fuel and Spark. Do you have Spark? Do you have Fuel at the Engine Fuel Rail? Did you have any noises when your Truck started the No Start Condition? A noise like the Timing Chain Jumping a Tooth? Anything? Was you Fuel Pump not running before? Did you replace the FPDM? If these 2 things are true, you likely have Air in the Fuel System. Cycle the Fuel Pump on and off 6 or more times. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive you’re right sorry I was in the middle of a frustrating diagnosis I have spark, the fuel pump wasn’t running until I put the jumpers in and now it runs with the key on. Cranks over strong but no start. Going to double check that I have fuel at the fuel rail !
So, I finally got the inertia switch out last night, by hanging upside down off the passenger seat. I think I now need to go to the chiropracter. I couldn't actually test the circuit because everyone went home and there was no one to turn the ignition on. Today, hopefully, I can finally accomplish the mission. I'll let you know what happens.. Thanks again for the help. I'd like to freind you on facebook, if you don't mind leaving your name
Winter, you didn't tell me the whole story. Did you determine the Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch is bad? What voltage did you get at the Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch? Did you measure voltage at Pin 5 of the FPDM Connector (Black Wire) and go to a good ground? I recommended NOT measuring voltage across Pin 5 to Pin 3, but going to a good ground (like all the way back to the Negative Terminal on the Battery, if you have to). - Stiles
I could not get a voltage reading on the inertia switch. Oddly there was no voltage before it and none after it. I bench tested the switch and it was bad (open). I splice the 2 wires to it together. Then I jumpered the 2 sets of the fuel pump drive module together and the truck started and I drove it home. Now, this drive module was brand new, but looking at it closely I realized that it wasn't completely together. Now i know. Thank God. I can't even begin to tell you how much i appreciate your help. Thank you a hundred million times! Now I can finally get my life back. :)
@@winter4345 Ok, Very good! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive I messed up and put the reply in the wrong place. It' s actually below this reply. I am not very computer literate. Sorry about that.
If I had not asked for your help nothing would have happened. If ther were Stile's automotive shops in this area I would visit every time I had a problem. Sadly there are not/ My email is fourteenthousandone at hotmail.com. Please feel free to contact me . I guess I'm a people person.@@StilesAutomotive
Great 👍
Thank you 👍
Some mechanics dont show anthing or ant details ir explain nothing .Thanks .
Glad it was helpful! I figure if you are watching a video you want to know as much as possible about the subject, including the details. The problem with troubleshooting videos like this one, is troubleshooting is like a tree with many branches. A video can show you one branch and your problem may be on another branch. Thanks for the comment - Stiles
Crank no starting and not get fire
Jermaine, Do you have a question, that I may have you with?
Do those manifold gaskets ASAP man before your heads JUNK! I've become somewhat of a "pro" at fixing them for customers who attempted the job themselves ONLY to snap off studs in the heads. Also the leaking exhaust gas will eat away at the head itself and when that happens it's garbage.
Yes, very true, I think about exhaust gases hurting the Head each time I drive the F-150, seems like the Gaskets rarely leak on the Exhaust Manifold side, but leak between the gasket and the Head which is hard on the Head. I drive a Mustang in the summer, but need to do that Exhaust Manifold before winter. Thanks for the comment! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive No problem man, hopefully I didn't come across as being an asshole as I wasn't trying to!
@@StilesAutomotive Could use your help with this issue!!
@@dieseldabz7104 I don't see a question or an issue, can you re-state it. - Stiles
I also have this problem and I'm indeed afraid of snapping off studs. Do you have any hints or a good youtube video you could send me to?
Sounds like my 2001…
Sogent56, You may have a "Cranks, but won't start" condition, but your Fuel System is different. You have a Fuel Pressure Regulator which controls the fuel pressure. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive where is that located? Thanks
😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😮😅
Lynn, 😮😅!!! I appreciate the comment! - Stiles
Hj
Jordan, ??? what? - Stiles