Another great video. So the car was dropped in for an oil change and causec mechanic didnt reset the oil count the car wouldnt do a regen and caused the fault ? Thats desperate. Fair play for highlighting this kinda stuff
These also won't regen if the aircon isnt working. They rely on both fans to be running during regen, if the aircon is out of gas or the fan is seized/blown fuse, they usually fail a regen.
My ac has not worked since 2016 yet my dpf has only just blocked now? Can’t do a forced regen without ac working as it can’t increase the engine load, it must still regen under normal driving conditions if this is the case, my issue is short journeys I suspect has caused the issue.
A great video jimmy, fair play. It's a great wonder the customer never reset the oil light themselves as I'm sure they would get a reminder light on the dash
That was an easy fix again. All i get are headaches of jobs. I've just changef a dpf because he kept driving it with it full untill the back pressure just broke it to pieces.
How most cars regen the DPF is by injecting diesel in the exhaust stroke. However, that ends up with diesel sticking to the cylinder wall, which ends up going into the sump... meaning oil is diluted. Not a massive problem... unless there are excessive regens, especially when it fails to regen and has to try again and again. Diesel doesn't lubricate and leads to engine failure, hence why if you don't reset the engine oil service, it doesn't do any further regen as the engine oil will be too diluted. Not ideal. PSA engines use EOLYS fluid so it doesn't need post injection as much (hence crucial to use genuine EOLYS not PAT fluid!). Ford eventually moved to the diesel injector in the exhaust stream instead of EOLYS. The rest are still post injection which is a terrible system.
Hi I have a similar problem with my Honda crv , I took the DPF off and presser wash it , we don’t have Dpf cleaner is South African so I removed it and cleaned is , my Q is Do I have to reset the dpf with a scanner?
First of all: thank you for this and many other videos. Maybe a silly question though, but why was I able drive my car for 3 years without any dpf problems, replacing oil/servicing myself without resetting anything? 3 years ago, I've bought 2010 Honda CR V 2.2 i-dtec. Only recently I'm having DPF problems (exactly the same as in the video). Two forced regens later back in limp mode with DPF and excamation mark/"check the system" warning. No "check the engine light". So what could stop my car's ECU from initialling "normal" regens during driving as before? My driving style hasn't changed, but even so, according to the manual, car should give me DPF symbol WITHOUT excamation mark, prompting me to take the car for the "blast" on motorway. No such thing, it went straight into limp mode and "take me to the garage" warning. Strangely enough it all started about a week after I've replaced cracked EGR pipe (apparently common ailment). Also, recently (can't remember if it was before the DPF saga started), I had air con malfunction (blown relay that I've promptly replaced - another apparently common issue which also happened on my previous car, Honda Civic). First forced regen was performed in the garage that told me sqarely that they don't know much about Honda - regen seemed to solve the problem, so happy days - for about a month. In the meantime, I've watched a bunch of O'Rileys videos, so this time I took my CR V to authorised HONDA garage. I gave them all possible info hoping that "pros" will solve this once and for all. What a mistake. I still cannot forgive myself. All they did was another forced regen. They didn't give me any explanation about the problem or answer any questions. I was just told that this was the last regen and if it'll happen again, the car will need new DPF. And they charged me three times more than the first garage. My car is in limp mode again. Next week it's booked with yet another garage (independent one) that seems to know thing or two about DPFs. But they already hinted at cancelling DPF... I still believe that something prevents ECU from initiating normal regens, and this is the problem and not "faulty" DPF. Just can't get my head around the fact that all this could be caused by not resetting service minder/oil dilution (which I cannot find anywhere in my car's options or even in the manual). I saw youtube videos of US version of CR V having oil quality reset option readily available in vehicle's menu among other usual options. Apologies about the rant, but I'd really like to find some logical explanation of all this DPF malarkey...😅 UPDATE The car is sorted, has been since end of August. I've found a garage that mainly does tuning, and they're real geeks (in the nicest way possible). They went through everything, all sensors and stuff to see if some is blocked/faulty - all was fine. Then they've plugged it to the scanner/laptop and discovered that oil quality was on zero ％ (something that comes up on Google if it comes to Honda diesels). US versions of my model (mk3) seem to have oil quality reset function available as they scroll through the options on the dash (where we have tyre pressure reset options and similar). For some strange reason our models don't have this option so there's a sequence of buttons on the steering wheel to do it. And that's what mechanic has done - he tried a few different methods and found one that works for my car (he's showed me it and I've just realised that I didn't make note of it - it seemed so straight forward at the time - and now I'm not entirely sure what was it😅😅. I have to call them to double check - hopefully they won't charge me for this 😂😂). If I remember correctly it was ignition on without starting the engine and then press and hold SEL/RESET button until "check the engine" light will blink a few times and the chime will go off - as I've said, I might be missing something. Anyway, they returned the car back to me and asked to come back in a week time to check if it worked. When I came back, they plugged the scanner in and took the car for a spin on the motorway. As they were driving for a bit, the exhaust temperature went right up and after a while "time since last regen" went to zero - proof that normal/background regens were back on. I forgot to mention that when i took my car to them first time it was in limp mode so first of all they've performed forced regen (but no chemical cleaning or removing the DPF for cleaning. Since I had my car back I've done over 2k miles completely trouble free, so I know that it has worked. One thing that I'd like to get my head around is that I've bought this car used and drove for three years servicing it myself and only after three years or roughly 30k miles the "oil quality" dropped to the level preventing background DPF regens. From now on I'll reset this everytime I change oil to be on the safe side. I hope that this helps
I have the exact same problem. Any luck with it yet? The worst part on mine is that the DPF isn't even blocked. It just won't automatically regen. I checked the ash content and it was pathetically low, nowhere near blocked. And after another forced regen it's now at something like 0.4 grams, so again not blocked. I'm having to do forced regens at least once a month because it won't do it automatically
@loadsofshite4887 As I said, it needs to be taken off and chemically cleaned. I have a honda civic 2.2idtec on 174k miles. Had to force regen every month. Took the dpf off myself, did a first stage clean with dishwasher tabs dissolved in hot water to remove the soot and oil, then a second stage clean with bric cleaner (hydrochloric acid at around 7% concentration). A lot of stuff came out but at the end the water was flowing freely through the dpf. Dried it out properly and put it back in the car. Touch wood it's been fine for a few months now and back to doing passive and active regen by itself. I'd strongly recommend if you're not comfortable working on your car and using acid cleaners please take it to a professional. Good luck
For the life of me I can't get this service or oil life to come up on my dash like you did.. My cars also a 2012 Accord idtec and I have the dreaded DPF check system light on. Any other tips to get this message to come up so I can reset it...?? 😊
How on earth, step by step, second by second, did you get the oil reset to appear!??!?! I've spend HOURS using that button. I have the exact same model as this accord.
You can reset it from the steering wheel button below the cruse control, says SEL/RESET on it. You reset B which is the fuel filter, you needed to reset A.
@@nooralan5039 ok thanks il try that I've had a hell of a time with my accord 2.2 idtec paid 220 to have it cleaned or flushed only for it to become blocked again after 3 weeks , went to the garage again they changed dpf pressure sensor and regenerated it via obd that worked for about 1 month only dpf smoke light back on again limp mode no codes present Just a symbol and no power again I really don't know what to do as a new dpf is 1500 pounds somebody told me to completely remove dpf and properly clean it by hand with cleaner and pressure or just have the car remapped and gutted , egr blanked god I hate this dpf system
Another great video. So the car was dropped in for an oil change and causec mechanic didnt reset the oil count the car wouldnt do a regen and caused the fault ? Thats desperate. Fair play for highlighting this kinda stuff
These also won't regen if the aircon isnt working. They rely on both fans to be running during regen, if the aircon is out of gas or the fan is seized/blown fuse, they usually fail a regen.
So if the ac dosent work and can't be fixed is there a way to make the fans go so the dpf will regen
@@bart300 not as far as im aware
My ac has not worked since 2016 yet my dpf has only just blocked now? Can’t do a forced regen without ac working as it can’t increase the engine load, it must still regen under normal driving conditions if this is the case, my issue is short journeys I suspect has caused the issue.
A great video jimmy, fair play. It's a great wonder the customer never reset the oil light themselves as I'm sure they would get a reminder light on the dash
No the oil reset is not the same as the oil degrading rest. It is Stupid it shoud be the same thing. 👍
That little compressor gets some stick 😂 as always great videos
That was an easy fix again. All i get are headaches of jobs. I've just changef a dpf because he kept driving it with it full untill the back pressure just broke it to pieces.
I miss the cortinas and sierras change the oil and filter away you go...none of that being blinded by science carry on.....
Another great video Jimmy,
Thanks again!
A great video of a not so great implementation of the service reminder and some other functions...
Top job once again Jimmy!
One potential solution to a constant dpf issue on Honda Accord 8. gen, is to blow out (clean) the hose and pipe between the dpf and dpf-sensor.
Well done Mr 😎
I miss the Blond in the T shirt!
How most cars regen the DPF is by injecting diesel in the exhaust stroke. However, that ends up with diesel sticking to the cylinder wall, which ends up going into the sump... meaning oil is diluted. Not a massive problem... unless there are excessive regens, especially when it fails to regen and has to try again and again. Diesel doesn't lubricate and leads to engine failure, hence why if you don't reset the engine oil service, it doesn't do any further regen as the engine oil will be too diluted. Not ideal. PSA engines use EOLYS fluid so it doesn't need post injection as much (hence crucial to use genuine EOLYS not PAT fluid!). Ford eventually moved to the diesel injector in the exhaust stream instead of EOLYS. The rest are still post injection which is a terrible system.
Hi I have a similar problem with my Honda crv , I took the DPF off and presser wash it , we don’t have Dpf cleaner is South African so I removed it and cleaned is , my Q is Do I have to reset the dpf with a scanner?
What do you make of the Honda Accord over all for a saloon of that age for reliability?? I'm looking at a 12-141 saloon and thinking it's the best!?!
First of all: thank you for this and many other videos. Maybe a silly question though, but why was I able drive my car for 3 years without any dpf problems, replacing oil/servicing myself without resetting anything? 3 years ago, I've bought 2010 Honda CR V 2.2 i-dtec. Only recently I'm having DPF problems (exactly the same as in the video). Two forced regens later back in limp mode with DPF and excamation mark/"check the system" warning. No "check the engine light". So what could stop my car's ECU from initialling "normal" regens during driving as before? My driving style hasn't changed, but even so, according to the manual, car should give me DPF symbol WITHOUT excamation mark, prompting me to take the car for the "blast" on motorway. No such thing, it went straight into limp mode and "take me to the garage" warning. Strangely enough it all started about a week after I've replaced cracked EGR pipe (apparently common ailment). Also, recently (can't remember if it was before the DPF saga started), I had air con malfunction (blown relay that I've promptly replaced - another apparently common issue which also happened on my previous car, Honda Civic). First forced regen was performed in the garage that told me sqarely that they don't know much about Honda - regen seemed to solve the problem, so happy days - for about a month. In the meantime, I've watched a bunch of O'Rileys videos, so this time I took my CR V to authorised HONDA garage. I gave them all possible info hoping that "pros" will solve this once and for all. What a mistake. I still cannot forgive myself. All they did was another forced regen. They didn't give me any explanation about the problem or answer any questions. I was just told that this was the last regen and if it'll happen again, the car will need new DPF. And they charged me three times more than the first garage. My car is in limp mode again. Next week it's booked with yet another garage (independent one) that seems to know thing or two about DPFs. But they already hinted at cancelling DPF...
I still believe that something prevents ECU from initiating normal regens, and this is the problem and not "faulty" DPF. Just can't get my head around the fact that all this could be caused by not resetting service minder/oil dilution (which I cannot find anywhere in my car's options or even in the manual). I saw youtube videos of US version of CR V having oil quality reset option readily available in vehicle's menu among other usual options.
Apologies about the rant, but I'd really like to find some logical explanation of all this DPF malarkey...😅
UPDATE
The car is sorted, has been since end of August. I've found a garage that mainly does tuning, and they're real geeks (in the nicest way possible). They went through everything, all sensors and stuff to see if some is blocked/faulty - all was fine. Then they've plugged it to the scanner/laptop and discovered that oil quality was on zero ％ (something that comes up on Google if it comes to Honda diesels). US versions of my model (mk3) seem to have oil quality reset function available as they scroll through the options on the dash (where we have tyre pressure reset options and similar). For some strange reason our models don't have this option so there's a sequence of buttons on the steering wheel to do it. And that's what mechanic has done - he tried a few different methods and found one that works for my car (he's showed me it and I've just realised that I didn't make note of it - it seemed so straight forward at the time - and now I'm not entirely sure what was it😅😅. I have to call them to double check - hopefully they won't charge me for this 😂😂). If I remember correctly it was ignition on without starting the engine and then press and hold SEL/RESET button until "check the engine" light will blink a few times and the chime will go off - as I've said, I might be missing something. Anyway, they returned the car back to me and asked to come back in a week time to check if it worked. When I came back, they plugged the scanner in and took the car for a spin on the motorway. As they were driving for a bit, the exhaust temperature went right up and after a while "time since last regen" went to zero - proof that normal/background regens were back on. I forgot to mention that when i took my car to them first time it was in limp mode so first of all they've performed forced regen (but no chemical cleaning or removing the DPF for cleaning.
Since I had my car back I've done over 2k miles completely trouble free, so I know that it has worked.
One thing that I'd like to get my head around is that I've bought this car used and drove for three years servicing it myself and only after three years or roughly 30k miles the "oil quality" dropped to the level preventing background DPF regens. From now on I'll reset this everytime I change oil to be on the safe side.
I hope that this helps
Build up of ash mate, regen won't burn it off. Only solution is to remove the DPF filter and take it to someone who can do a chemical clean.
I have the exact same problem. Any luck with it yet? The worst part on mine is that the DPF isn't even blocked. It just won't automatically regen. I checked the ash content and it was pathetically low, nowhere near blocked. And after another forced regen it's now at something like 0.4 grams, so again not blocked. I'm having to do forced regens at least once a month because it won't do it automatically
@loadsofshite4887 As I said, it needs to be taken off and chemically cleaned. I have a honda civic 2.2idtec on 174k miles. Had to force regen every month. Took the dpf off myself, did a first stage clean with dishwasher tabs dissolved in hot water to remove the soot and oil, then a second stage clean with bric cleaner (hydrochloric acid at around 7% concentration). A lot of stuff came out but at the end the water was flowing freely through the dpf. Dried it out properly and put it back in the car. Touch wood it's been fine for a few months now and back to doing passive and active regen by itself. I'd strongly recommend if you're not comfortable working on your car and using acid cleaners please take it to a professional. Good luck
@@loadsofshite4887hi, please see my edited comment👍🏻
Hi Jimmy, what is the best scan to for bidirectional test and ECU programming online and off-line? Would you recommend
For the life of me I can't get this service or oil life to come up on my dash like you did.. My cars also a 2012 Accord idtec and I have the dreaded DPF check system light on. Any other tips to get this message to come up so I can reset it...?? 😊
I just put sea foam in my Movano van as it was smoking seems to be less now
How on earth, step by step, second by second, did you get the oil reset to appear!??!?! I've spend HOURS using that button.
I have the exact same model as this accord.
I blame the crap fuel brought from super markets for d p f blockages 😮😮
You can reset it from the steering wheel button below the cruse control, says SEL/RESET on it. You reset B which is the fuel filter, you needed to reset A.
Does reset A really mean the oil reset as I always thought both a and b are mileage counters
yes they are mileage counters
@nooralan5039 I still haven't figured out how to reset the oil and service light using this technique do you know how it's done
@@cassk9999 switch ignition on. then press and hold the SEL\ Reset button for 10 seconds you will here a beep.
@@nooralan5039 ok thanks il try that I've had a hell of a time with my accord 2.2 idtec paid 220 to have it cleaned or flushed only for it to become blocked again after 3 weeks , went to the garage again they changed dpf pressure sensor and regenerated it via obd that worked for about 1 month only dpf smoke light back on again limp mode no codes present Just a symbol and no power again I really don't know what to do as a new dpf is 1500 pounds somebody told me to completely remove dpf and properly clean it by hand with cleaner and pressure or just have the car remapped and gutted , egr blanked god I hate this dpf system
Scanner make please
Lauch Euro Tab 3