Learn the basic steps of how to tune the Weber 32/36 DGV, a 2 barrel downdraft carburettor. The carburettor is tuned for a Volvo B20A and the result is measured using a Wideband Lambda Sond.
So glad I watched your video. You are first person I have found who mentions anything about the main jets, everyone else just talks about the primary jets and ignores the main jets. Thank you so much.
I think your AFRs are just fine! I am also tuning my engine now with an AFR gauge. My issue is at part throttle, it is too lean. So now I changed the primary air jet. Hope it will help.
Sorry, I was referring to the secondary jets in my last post. The info on your video helped to get my 2.3 Ford engine running as it should. Thanks again.
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! I have replaced the camshaft this winter and inspected the engine. It is in a very good condition, almost new (it comes from a military vehicle). I plan to make a new film about this modification.
Very informative, thanks! Needing to tune the 32/36 that a previous owner installed out of the box on an '87 Toyota Corolla (AE86) that I bought. Also, vintage ZZ Top keychain spotted! :)
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! I wish you good luck with the tuning! I bought the keychain at a ZZ Top concert many years ago, remembering the video 'Gimme all your loving' ...
Trevlig och informativ video! Håller själv på och mekar med en 32/36 DGV till en Ford Zephyr Six marinmotor. Det är verkligen en hel vetenskap. Har fått den att gå bra på tomgång och första steget. När andra steget kommer in dör motorn om man inte drar ut choken. Hade också velat ha en lambdamätare men det funkar ju inte när man har vatten i avgaserna.
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! If the engine dies when the second stage comes into action but it seem to work with the choke engaged, then I believe that the mixture is far too lean. This problem may be cured by increasing the secondary main jet and/or decreasing the secondary air corrector. This is of course under the assumption that the carburettor is in good condition and in general suitable for your engine and that all other things like ignition, compression, vacuum leaks and so on have been checked.
@@cartube7505 Thanks for the reply! Yes, i believe that´s the problem too. I have changed the jets many times now and it´s getting better but it´s not fixed yet. The carb is new.
Great Video, I'm currently looking to convert my 1962 ford consul to a weber 32//36, It's already got a high compression head and 4 branch manifold, Standard it had a hockey stick style manifold where all the exhaust ports went into 1 pipe so now it flows much better. It also a zenith vn carb, It's never been good with that carb. Splutters down low when you get back onto the throttle, The engine is rebuilt, timed and all new ignition so i'm going to try the carb conversion now.
Thank you. I also have a '65 PV with a B20, and a DGV conversion - and it is white too. I have been frustrated with the Weber, and am considering changing back to the two SU carburetors that were original here in the USA. Maybe I will add the Lambda Sond and try to set up the Weber with that. After many years working on British cars with SU carbs, I understand how they work. The Weber is still a bit of a mystery!
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! Last year I installed a 2 inch exhaust system in my car. After that, the Lambda Sond suggested some slight re-tuning. I have read two books and learned some new things about the Weber 32/36 and I sure would like to make an update to this film but my time is limited for the moment. With a good engine and a proper tuning the car shall run perfect. One of many good things I like with the 32/36 DGV is the fuel consumption. Yesterday I drove some 500 km (with overdrive) mostly at speeds around 100-120 km/h and the fuel consumption was less than 6.8 litres per 100 km.
Helpful info here. I'm struggling to dial in my new 32/36 on a Nissan z24 engine which has 2389 cc. I bought a Lambda gauge to help figure out why it seems sluggish while accelerating or merging and the readings for those conditions indicate that it is running lean like around 107 - 1.10. I have larger main jets on order and I'm pretty happy with the idle after going down 1 size main idle jet to a 55. Anyway, What I'm not clear on at the moment is when setting lean best idle, the engine runs best at a Lambda of around 0.85. A slight turn of the idle mixture screw adjusts the Lambda to 0.92 - 0.95 but doing so yields a slightly less better idle. Lambda readings if I stay with the lean best (and richer) idle setting lowers the readings for accelerating and cruising only slightly to maybe 1.05 - 1.08. I wonder if I should run it at the lean best richer idle because that's what the engine seems to want or if I should adjust the idle to run closer to stoich even though it doesn't run as well. Hope that makes sense.
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! First of all, I am not an expert in this topic, I have only shared what I have learned, however I will try to answer your questions: If your engine has the best idle at Lambda 0.85, the amount of CO will be around 5.3% and that may be too much according to the regulations (the car may not be approved at the registration). This could be an indication of vacuum leaks, e.g. in the throttle axis which is common for worn carburettors. The solution is to replace the axis and the bushings for the throttle, but until then I suggest you to keep the idle at 0.85 since the engine runs best here. It is interesting that the idle setting affects the Lambda at cruising, this confirms what I believe even though I have found articles that suggests the opposite, i.e. that the idle circuit does not affect the cruising state. Also, I strongly agree with you to increase the primary main jet because you need a slightly richer mixture than the stoich during cruising (at least if it is an atmospheric engine, i.e. without compressor/turbo). Running the engine leaner than the stoich is no good and can in the worst case damage the engine. Good luck with the tuning!
I'm doing similar tuning on a BMW 2002 and also find that the highest idle is achieved at 12.5 (0.85). This figure is pretty typical in the 2002 crowd from my research.
I wish that a Weber kit like this was available for my Amazon with a B16 engine. Have spent over 2000 euro on trying to get an original Zenith rebuilt. At this point I am convinced it is impossible, and in general a very poor design compared to these Weber carburetors. I finally have an air tight carburetor now, but it leaks a lot of fuel into the intake when turning off the engine. Hard to restart it unless I let it sit overnight. Your video is very good and informative. I'm sure it will be a big help for people with a B18 or B20.
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! I used to have an overhauled Zenith before and it worked but I think it was too small for this engine. I remember some fuel leakage on the intake but not as severe as in your case. I suggest that you check the needle valve and replace it if it's not working. Remove the float cover and the fuel line and blow air with your mouth through the fuel inlet while the valve is open, then close the valve and the flow of air should stop completely, if not, replace the needle valve. The needle valve gets worn and must be replaced on a regular basis, every 20000 km is recommended for the Weber.
Thank you for the suggestion! Turns out the carburetor is completely fine. The culprit was the new fuel pump I had. Installed an original, old used fuel pump, and the leak is gone. The new pump produced 6-7 psi of pressure, while the used pump has around 3 psi. I suspect the pressure was just high enough to overpower the needle valve and overfill the float chamber, causing the leak. Before installing the rebuilt carburetor, I checked the needle valve multiple times just like you described. Found no trouble with it opening and closing. This was less than a month ago. Disconnecting the fuel line after turning off the engine to release any pressure, or gravity feeding the fuel (bypassing the pump), resulted in no leaks while troubleshooting. This should confirm fuel pressure was the problem.
Great content! It'd be great to learn more about which passages are active at different throttle positions and RPM in order to know how to fine tune AFR low/high spots in the range. For instance, with my mixture screw 2 turns out for max idle speed (on the verge of a lean idle jet) I'm still running slightly rich (12.0-12.5) at part throttle and cruising, however the AFR leans out to 14.7 at WOT. I also notice that AFR leans out at higher RPM (13.0-13.8) regardless of throttle position. So what is going on and how would I lean out low rpm, low throttle while richening high rpm, high throttle?
Could it be that your primary main jet is too large and the secondary main jet is too small? And what about the secondary idle jet? To be able to help you further I need to know the current jetting setup for your carburettor. I assume it is a Weber 32/36 DGV, is that correct?
@@cartube7505 It's a 32/36 DGEV. Secondary main is actually 5 larger than primary and still leans out at WOT. Primary: 65 idle 140 main 160 air corrector Secondary: 60 idle 145 main 170 air corrector
@@davidmucci1014 First of all, please be aware that I am no expert in this area. However, it seems obvious that the engine gets too much air at WOT. Could it be a vacuum leak? Is it a new or used carburettor? Can you find clues by studying jetting tables for your engine? Dealing with air correctors and E-tubes is unfortunately beyond my knowledge. What does the E in DGEV mean? Currently I have no access to my Weber handbook.
Did you get this worked out? They sell difference sized Booster Jets (twin elephant trunks in the center) in the performance kits. Or try a larger Aux Venturi, although that seems like a last resort.
My mixture screw is thin and short on my 32/36, its even inside the hole where it is suppose to be.. Is it the wrong screw or is it just another version in some way? My engine runs but it runs in "waves", up and down. Im about to change the spark plugs and even ignition cables, but could this be a case of air leaking in somewhere?
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! Air leaks can cause strange problems. My only advice is to thoroughly check your carburetor, ignition parts, ignition timing, gaskets for manifold and carburetor etc. Replace bad parts.
I have the same setup on a B18A it seems to work well up to 4500 rpm then it doesn't accelerate well. Does yours pull well all the way to redline? Im thinking about a 38 dgas if i cant figure this out. The car could do ~100mph with the zenith but now 85mph is a stretch.
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! I am sorry for late answer and the reason is that I recently had to abandon the so good HTML version of Gmail so I did not discover new comments. Actually, to be honest, I have not tested 4500 RPM and above. I may have tested only like 3500 RPM since I installed a K-cam last year and I have not pushed the car to much since then, however, I have made some slight adjustments in the tuning. I also have installed a 2-inch exhaust system which really makes difference and it suits the tuning suggested in this film a lot better. Everything works much better together. This can maybe be a topic for a new film but I have not had the time for this during the last couple of years. I want the car to behave well in the RPM-register that I normally use in daily driving. In your case, maybe you need to consider what cam shaft you have? Or the exhaust system, or the cylinder head. It is not only the carburetor that determines the behavior but also the other systems as they must all cooperate to receive the goal. Concerning the Zenith carburetor, take a look at the test drive in the overdrive conversion film in which I still had the Zenith VN36 carburetor (with the B20 engine). Here, I managed to pull the car to considerably higher speeds than what is showed in the film but I did not dare to enclose this part in the film. At this point, the gas pedal was only like half way down and nothing happened when I pulled it to the floor. When I later removed the cylinder head I found that it was not correctly torqued so it was actually leaking. This is also a topic for a new film. I would like to use this opportunity to send a message to all of my viewers and subscribers: I really don't know how everything works in TH-cam but for those of you reading this, I would like to say that I am sorry for not posting any video during the last years. However, from now I will have plenty of spare time so I hope to be able to post new videos in the coming future. So please don't give up, there will be more content in this channel, I promise.
Hello I have a problem when the engine is warm, the choke kicks in too fast and the carburetor gets sour. How do you adjust the choke so it doesn't go in too fast. Only drive the car when it's 20+ degrees outside
I don't understand exactly what you mean. The choke shall be wide open when the engine is warm and not used at all. If you only drive the car at 20+ degrees I think you can skip to use the choke when you start the engine. However, apart from creating a richer mixture it also raises the idle speed to help the engine to idle when it is cold. I am not sure I can give you any advice other than checking the linkage and the wire used to engage the choke.
@@cartube7505 the problem is when I have driven and turn off the engine and wait for 15 min it’s almost impossible to start. I have to give full gas and turn starter for one minute to start. How do I skip the choke. How do I disconnect it? It’s a electric choke
@@paulgun I am sorry, but I have no experience regarding the electric choke. But could it be that the carburetor gets too warm causing a steam lock or something? I used to have minor problems to start with warm engine with my previous Zenith VN36, however far less than you describe.
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So glad I watched your video. You are first person I have found who mentions anything about the main jets, everyone else just talks about the primary jets and ignores the main jets. Thank you so much.
Fantastic, just what I was looking for! Also enjoyed the music. Thank you
You are welcome, thank you for watching!
Howdy from Texas, thanks for this video! A lot of good info
I think your AFRs are just fine! I am also tuning my engine now with an AFR gauge. My issue is at part throttle, it is too lean. So now I changed the primary air jet. Hope it will help.
Sorry, I was referring to the secondary jets in my last post. The info on your video helped to get my 2.3 Ford engine running as it should. Thanks again.
You are welcome! Thank you for watching!
awsome infoemative video! helped me a lot tuning mine, thank you sir!
Excelente video!!!! Parabéns e obrigado!👏👏👏👏
Thankyou for the detailed information. I found this video a massive help
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! I wish you good luck with the tuning!
from the video, it does indeed run very well. The steady 0.89 at idle shows a well-behaving engine.
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! I have replaced the camshaft this winter and inspected the engine. It is in a very good condition, almost new (it comes from a military vehicle). I plan to make a new film about this modification.
Those readings look really good, in reality it’ll never be perfect… if you look at those wideband gauges too long they’ll drive you nuts.
Very informative, thanks! Needing to tune the 32/36 that a previous owner installed out of the box on an '87 Toyota Corolla (AE86) that I bought. Also, vintage ZZ Top keychain spotted! :)
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! I wish you good luck with the tuning! I bought the keychain at a ZZ Top concert many years ago, remembering the video 'Gimme all your loving' ...
Trevlig och informativ video! Håller själv på och mekar med en 32/36 DGV till en Ford Zephyr Six marinmotor. Det är verkligen en hel vetenskap. Har fått den att gå bra på tomgång och första steget. När andra steget kommer in dör motorn om man inte drar ut choken. Hade också velat ha en lambdamätare men det funkar ju inte när man har vatten i avgaserna.
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! If the engine dies when the second stage comes into action but it seem to work with the choke engaged, then I believe that the mixture is far too lean. This problem may be cured by increasing the secondary main jet and/or decreasing the secondary air corrector. This is of course under the assumption that the carburettor is in good condition and in general suitable for your engine and that all other things like ignition, compression, vacuum leaks and so on have been checked.
@@cartube7505 Thanks for the reply! Yes, i believe that´s the problem too. I have changed the jets many times now and it´s getting better but it´s not fixed yet. The carb is new.
Great Video, I'm currently looking to convert my 1962 ford consul to a weber 32//36, It's already got a high compression head and 4 branch manifold, Standard it had a hockey stick style manifold where all the exhaust ports went into 1 pipe so now it flows much better. It also a zenith vn carb, It's never been good with that carb. Splutters down low when you get back onto the throttle, The engine is rebuilt, timed and all new ignition so i'm going to try the carb conversion now.
Thank you for watching and good luck with the Weber conversion!
Thank you. I also have a '65 PV with a B20, and a DGV conversion - and it is white too. I have been frustrated with the Weber, and am considering changing back to the two SU carburetors that were original here in the USA. Maybe I will add the Lambda Sond and try to set up the Weber with that. After many years working on British cars with SU carbs, I understand how they work. The Weber is still a bit of a mystery!
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! Last year I installed a 2 inch exhaust system in my car. After that, the Lambda Sond suggested some slight re-tuning. I have read two books and learned some new things about the Weber 32/36 and I sure would like to make an update to this film but my time is limited for the moment. With a good engine and a proper tuning the car shall run perfect. One of many good things I like with the 32/36 DGV is the fuel consumption. Yesterday I drove some 500 km (with overdrive) mostly at speeds around 100-120 km/h and the fuel consumption was less than 6.8 litres per 100 km.
Helpful info here. I'm struggling to dial in my new 32/36 on a Nissan z24 engine which has 2389 cc. I bought a Lambda gauge to help figure out why it seems sluggish while accelerating or merging and the readings for those conditions indicate that it is running lean like around 107 - 1.10. I have larger main jets on order and I'm pretty happy with the idle after going down 1 size main idle jet to a 55. Anyway, What I'm not clear on at the moment is when setting lean best idle, the engine runs best at a Lambda of around 0.85. A slight turn of the idle mixture screw adjusts the Lambda to 0.92 - 0.95 but doing so yields a slightly less better idle. Lambda readings if I stay with the lean best (and richer) idle setting lowers the readings for accelerating and cruising only slightly to maybe 1.05 - 1.08. I wonder if I should run it at the lean best richer idle because that's what the engine seems to want or if I should adjust the idle to run closer to stoich even though it doesn't run as well. Hope that makes sense.
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! First of all, I am not an expert in this topic, I have only shared what I have learned, however I will try to answer your questions: If your engine has the best idle at Lambda 0.85, the amount of CO will be around 5.3% and that may be too much according to the regulations (the car may not be approved at the registration). This could be an indication of vacuum leaks, e.g. in the throttle axis which is common for worn carburettors. The solution is to replace the axis and the bushings for the throttle, but until then I suggest you to keep the idle at 0.85 since the engine runs best here. It is interesting that the idle setting affects the Lambda at cruising, this confirms what I believe even though I have found articles that suggests the opposite, i.e. that the idle circuit does not affect the cruising state. Also, I strongly agree with you to increase the primary main jet because you need a slightly richer mixture than the stoich during cruising (at least if it is an atmospheric engine, i.e. without compressor/turbo). Running the engine leaner than the stoich is no good and can in the worst case damage the engine. Good luck with the tuning!
I'm doing similar tuning on a BMW 2002 and also find that the highest idle is achieved at 12.5 (0.85). This figure is pretty typical in the 2002 crowd from my research.
I wish that a Weber kit like this was available for my Amazon with a B16 engine. Have spent over 2000 euro on trying to get an original Zenith rebuilt. At this point I am convinced it is impossible, and in general a very poor design compared to these Weber carburetors. I finally have an air tight carburetor now, but it leaks a lot of fuel into the intake when turning off the engine. Hard to restart it unless I let it sit overnight. Your video is very good and informative. I'm sure it will be a big help for people with a B18 or B20.
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! I used to have an overhauled Zenith before and it worked but I think it was too small for this engine. I remember some fuel leakage on the intake but not as severe as in your case. I suggest that you check the needle valve and replace it if it's not working. Remove the float cover and the fuel line and blow air with your mouth through the fuel inlet while the valve is open, then close the valve and the flow of air should stop completely, if not, replace the needle valve. The needle valve gets worn and must be replaced on a regular basis, every 20000 km is recommended for the Weber.
Thank you for the suggestion! Turns out the carburetor is completely fine. The culprit was the new fuel pump I had. Installed an original, old used fuel pump, and the leak is gone. The new pump produced 6-7 psi of pressure, while the used pump has around 3 psi. I suspect the pressure was just high enough to overpower the needle valve and overfill the float chamber, causing the leak. Before installing the rebuilt carburetor, I checked the needle valve multiple times just like you described. Found no trouble with it opening and closing. This was less than a month ago. Disconnecting the fuel line after turning off the engine to release any pressure, or gravity feeding the fuel (bypassing the pump), resulted in no leaks while troubleshooting. This should confirm fuel pressure was the problem.
@@togst Good work!
Great content! It'd be great to learn more about which passages are active at different throttle positions and RPM in order to know how to fine tune AFR low/high spots in the range.
For instance, with my mixture screw 2 turns out for max idle speed (on the verge of a lean idle jet) I'm still running slightly rich (12.0-12.5) at part throttle and cruising, however the AFR leans out to 14.7 at WOT. I also notice that AFR leans out at higher RPM (13.0-13.8) regardless of throttle position.
So what is going on and how would I lean out low rpm, low throttle while richening high rpm, high throttle?
Could it be that your primary main jet is too large and the secondary main jet is too small? And what about the secondary idle jet? To be able to help you further I need to know the current jetting setup for your carburettor. I assume it is a Weber 32/36 DGV, is that correct?
@@cartube7505 It's a 32/36 DGEV.
Secondary main is actually 5 larger than primary and still leans out at WOT.
Primary:
65 idle
140 main
160 air corrector
Secondary:
60 idle
145 main
170 air corrector
@@davidmucci1014 First of all, please be aware that I am no expert in this area. However, it seems obvious that the engine gets too much air at WOT. Could it be a vacuum leak? Is it a new or used carburettor? Can you find clues by studying jetting tables for your engine? Dealing with air correctors and E-tubes is unfortunately beyond my knowledge. What does the E in DGEV mean? Currently I have no access to my Weber handbook.
Did you get this worked out? They sell difference sized Booster Jets (twin elephant trunks in the center) in the performance kits. Or try a larger Aux Venturi, although that seems like a last resort.
My mixture screw is thin and short on my 32/36, its even inside the hole where it is suppose to be.. Is it the wrong screw or is it just another version in some way? My engine runs but it runs in "waves", up and down. Im about to change the spark plugs and even ignition cables, but could this be a case of air leaking in somewhere?
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! Air leaks can cause strange problems. My only advice is to thoroughly check your carburetor, ignition parts, ignition timing, gaskets for manifold and carburetor etc. Replace bad parts.
I have the same setup on a B18A it seems to work well up to 4500 rpm then it doesn't accelerate well. Does yours pull well all the way to redline? Im thinking about a 38 dgas if i cant figure this out. The car could do ~100mph with the zenith but now 85mph is a stretch.
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! I am sorry for late answer and the reason is that I recently had to abandon the so good HTML version of Gmail so I did not discover new comments.
Actually, to be honest, I have not tested 4500 RPM and above. I may have tested only like 3500 RPM since I installed a K-cam last year and I have not pushed the car to much since then, however, I have made some slight adjustments in the tuning. I also have installed a 2-inch exhaust system which really makes difference and it suits the tuning suggested in this film a lot better. Everything works much better together. This can maybe be a topic for a new film but I have not had the time for this during the last couple of years. I want the car to behave well in the RPM-register that I normally use in daily driving. In your case, maybe you need to consider what cam shaft you have? Or the exhaust system, or the cylinder head. It is not only the carburetor that determines the behavior but also the other systems as they must all cooperate to receive the goal.
Concerning the Zenith carburetor, take a look at the test drive in the overdrive conversion film in which I still had the Zenith VN36 carburetor (with the B20 engine). Here, I managed to pull the car to considerably higher speeds than what is showed in the film but I did not dare to enclose this part in the film. At this point, the gas pedal was only like half way down and nothing happened when I pulled it to the floor. When I later removed the cylinder head I found that it was not correctly torqued so it was actually leaking. This is also a topic for a new film.
I would like to use this opportunity to send a message to all of my viewers and subscribers:
I really don't know how everything works in TH-cam but for those of you reading this, I would like to say that I am sorry for not posting any video during the last years. However, from now I will have plenty of spare time so I hope to be able to post new videos in the coming future. So please don't give up, there will be more content in this channel, I promise.
Mine is dieseling can you help i have a 32/36 with electric choke, i use it on 1987 toyota pickup 22r
Thank you for watching and commenting my video! But I am sorry, I really have no idea ...
Hello
I have a problem when the engine is warm, the choke kicks in too fast and the carburetor gets sour. How do you adjust the choke so it doesn't go in too fast. Only drive the car when it's 20+ degrees outside
I don't understand exactly what you mean. The choke shall be wide open when the engine is warm and not used at all. If you only drive the car at 20+ degrees I think you can skip to use the choke when you start the engine. However, apart from creating a richer mixture it also raises the idle speed to help the engine to idle when it is cold. I am not sure I can give you any advice other than checking the linkage and the wire used to engage the choke.
@@cartube7505 the problem is when I have driven and turn off the engine and wait for 15 min it’s almost impossible to start. I have to give full gas and turn starter for one minute to start. How do I skip the choke. How do I disconnect it? It’s a electric choke
@@paulgun I am sorry, but I have no experience regarding the electric choke. But could it be that the carburetor gets too warm causing a steam lock or something? I used to have minor problems to start with warm engine with my previous Zenith VN36, however far less than you describe.