You made a very well produced video. I used a Weber 32/36 DGV when I raced my Datsun 510 in Improved Touring in SCCA. I had a brass float fail in one of my first races with the car. The result was fuel overflowing out of the carburetor. Fortunately I did not have a fire which would have been catastrophic. After that I used a plastic float in the carburetor and never had a problem. A race car with solid bushings transmits a lot more vibration than a street car. The tracks we ran on in Colorado were pretty rough compared to the ones I raced at out of state. I am sure that could have been a contributing factor to the brass float failing. I would suggest inspecting the float for stress cracks anytime you have the top off. Another tip I would suggest during a disassembly/rebuild is to take the cover gasket and trace around it on a piece of paper. It is easy to mark on the tracing where each jet, venturi, etc goes. When I raced I would print off copies so that I could mark them up if I changed jets on the carburetor as well as the results of the change.
Hi from the UK! This carb is standard on Ford Cortinas built in the 1970s and 1980s (now classic cars in the UK and used a lot for kit cars) and your two videos are great. The careful, clear description of the process is perfect for anyone to feel confident to strip and re-assemble the carb. The camerawork is also the best I have seen on such a video. Well done - great job. I have taken my carb off and it will soon be on the kitchen table to start the reconditioning.
Great video, I only wanted to check on the procedure for setting the float valve, which I scrolled through to, and watched that. It was infinitely better than the other short videos in here that failed to give the necessary detail that you provided. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Very good video to disassemble and rebuild carburetor. I just did my 32/36 after your instructions for my Ford Taunus and it worked perfectly. Thanks a lot from Germany 👍
Excellent video. I have one of these on a 77 midget instead of a Stomberg. I'm mostly familiar with SU carbs from Sprites and my midget runs rich and the carb is crusty, so got myself a rebuilt kit and will follow your instructions, especially with respect to the careful ordering, videoing the whole thing to act as memory, documenting components and NOT flinging the spring across the room!
Dude..... AWESOME video!!! I absolutely hate messing with carbs and I just bought a mud truck with a weber on it and it was running like s**t! I tore down and cleaned the carb then found this video while I was reassembling it. Your video helped me understand carburetors better and what all the parts are. Very good, informative video. Thank you for taking the time to do this!!
Accelerator pump valve assy that holds the “squirter” in place is actually a check valve with a bb in it. 13:30. Shake to ensure bb is free, blow and suck lightly to ensure check valve function while covering two side holes. Do not use carb or brake cleaner as it has a nylon insert inside. Better still, just replace it when you rebuild. Most kits dont have this part.
I'm happy i found the video Cause i have one of those in the Renault im building And it's in dire need pf attention. I think i would use thread lock on the butterfly screws
Hi, i don't understand You have put the 145 jet in the primary and the 135 in the secondary. Isn't it in the primary (small butterfly) the small jet and in the secondary (big butterfly) the largest jet? Thank you
So glad I found your video, I was a little hesitant to completely disassemble my weber because I was sure I would forget how to put it back together. My only carb experience has been some old Ford 94s and a quadrajunk about 15 years ago, so I am a little rusty. Thanks to your detailed step by step instructions, its back together and ready to throw on the manifold. Great job! Btw, who knew pinesol would clean a carb so well?!? Maybe an old school trick, but it's new to me.
@20:46, you state the plastics should be 35mm from bottom to top. The plastic floats are 27mm tall so that only leaves 8mm from top of float to top of lid. Does that sound correct? I see 18mm clearance from top of float to lid so that would be a 44mm total bottom to top referenced in other places. Confused.....
Great video, I have the same on an old Jeep and want to fine tune it and this will help a lot. I also have a set of cross shaft bearings to install. Have a good one !
I have a plymouth arrow pickup 1980 and a d50 ram 1986, I'm putting weber 32/36 (Spain) my question is what throttle cable do I get in replacement of the old ones?
Very helpful video, i have an issue where im missing an idle jet on one side. The one that remains is like the one in the video that threads in. But i cannot find a single replacement online. Only idle jets without threads do you know where i can get them or if use those with the “idle jet holder”
I highly recommend the Pat Braden Weber Carburetor Book - Excellent!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Another good one that has information related to Weber 32/36 DGV carburetors is Jake Lamont's book "How To Build And Maintain Competitive Formula Ford 1600 Motors". He has a lot of recommendations that would apply to street cars if you are interested in performance modifications.
You should tighten down the shaft nut first, because it will pull the plate off to one side when you tighten the nut and likely will bind. Tighten shaft nut first to get permanent lateral shaft position then tighten throttle plate.
Nice video as you make it very easy to follow step-by-step as I'm about to rebuild one of these carbs I have on a 1975 Volkswagen bus I've heard isn't the best kind of carburetor to use on a bus but hoping it will work good again.
Thanks for posting this video. Very well explained. On my carby, when the fully opened and has reached its stop the secondary throttle does not fully open. Why would this be so? [as per 8:40 mark on video]
@@CarsBikesandCoffee No, it is not jammed. I also saw a clip on TH-cam at; www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber-carb-second-barrel-not-opening-1280380/ that has much the same thing. The butterfly valve shafts have flat spots on the shaft, so the linkages cannot have moved around the shaft [tight fit]. By the time the first valve has reached its end of travel, the second valve has only opened about 1/2 way. Maybe I need to weld a bit to the linkage that goes to the 2nd valve---see 7:53---so that the bent piece at where your thumb is at 6:36 start to open the second valve sooner. I have not pulled the carby apart, I just noticed that the second valve does not fully open, I am wondering why.
+Ross M hmm I don’t think you should have to weld. It’s tough without seeing it. The big question, did it work fine before or has it always been like this. Can you post a video of it to check it out? I’m curious if the order of the primary shaft linkages is off?
thanks for the video ! can you tell me if there is a place that i can print out an exploded parts page of a 32/36 dfav ? to keep for records and future use ? thank you
I've got an issue with my Weber dgav 32/36. The primary throttle plate is stuck open and I'm wondering if it's adjustable. Or do I have to buy a whole new assembly to close the plate? I have no adjustment on my idle screw whatsoever. I've been running the carburetor for the last 10 years on a 1.8 L Isuzu 4-banger and it performs well it's just been trial and error trying to adjust this thing and they're supposed to be pretty simple so I'm assuming that open throttle plate is my issue. Hope this finds you. Thanks for the video for you have given me enough confidence to take my throttle pump apart haha cheers
+Nedly for the throttle butterfly take a look at the steps around 4:30, that should help. Could be the cause of the idle screw issue. Give it a shot and let me know! Thanks for watching!
@@CarsBikesandCoffee Awesome! That's what I initially thought. With that much of an opening on the primary plate, there's no way in hell I was going to get any action with the idle speed screw. Thanks for the response and the video! Cheers man!
@@CarsBikesandCoffee hey man I appreciate your response on my last comment. I was able to fix the issue with the throttle plate. I have a lot more adjustment on the idle speed screw. The other issue I have now is emissions. Over the years I've kind of struggled passing smog but was able to dial it in pretty good. Some years it went pretty smooth but now I'm running like 7% carbon hahaha it's been a little high in the past but never that high. I'm going to try to play with the jetting. In the past smog tests, I'm wondering if the plate partially stuck open was feeding it just enough air to pass the low speed test. I'm gonna play with it and see how it goes. Thanks again man. Cheers🤙
+Nedly right on!! Stoked for you. Smog is tough, maybe a good cleaning of everything, and get that engine really warmed up before going will for sure help.
1987 Mitsu montero with a weber 32/36. Just had a fail today. Truck is now revving at 4000rpm at park. it happened after driving it all day. Both flaps are now fully open and are not closed at the start.. Is this an electronic choke issue? Just ordered a rebuilt kit, but don't know what I need. I checked the cabling and the throttle pedal cable assembly works. Any knowledge of the failure?
@@CarsBikesandCoffee it’s the rerun cable. It’s locked up. Can’t release. Ordered newer version on cable but needs to be retrofitted and done with a transmission fluid and filter change. Not fixed but hooked up a bungee cord to pull back on throttle
Awesome video! Thanks for the help! I have a quick question, I’m running a single Weber with brass floats in a 74 620 p/u Should my float height still be 41mm?
Super cool video, very useful Thank you very much The engine switches off when the speed is switched from the third speed to the second speed. Or stop in a position when waiting for the light signal What do you propose to?
+hashkoun thank you!! So to make sure I understand, when you shift gears from third to second or when you are at a stop light, the engine stops? Could be a few things but sounds like your idle speed isn’t high enough or there is a clog.
Thanks so much! I appreciate it. Yes you have to get yours running! The 260z is going to be a good one. Hope to get those videos posted soon. Thanks for watching!
Most carburetors I've ever worked with have the screws securing the throttle and choke blades staked (expanded) on the end to prevent them coming loose and getting sucked into the engine. If you try to simply remove them you'll damage the threads in the shaft. Is this not the case with the webers?
I recently bought an 85 cj7 that has this carb on it. It runs rough and I’ve done all the normal tube up stuff to get it running right but it’s still rough. It hesitates in second gear from time to time. Really 2nd to4th it will hesitate. Not all the time though. Sometimes it runs great. Would my carb cause it to run rough. I know on my Harley it does. Carberated vehicles are new to me. Any advice I’d appreciate. Great video too!
+Ryan Cornelius thanks for watching! So assuming timing was part of the tune up you mentioned, when it hesitates, is it bogging down? Have you checked fuel filter(s) and the gas (is it new or old)? If it has been sitting for awhile the old fuel in the carb could clog a jet or the passages. Doing a rebuild wouldn’t hurt, but replace fuel filters and drain the fuel if it is old.
Hey man this is the best video out there on rebuilding these carbs, thank you so much. I wanted to ask you a quick question, I pulled two of these off of a barn find 260z and I’m trying to figure something out. One of them doesn’t have the choke shaft or plates??? And the other one has the choke shaft but not the plates? I’m very confused I was told it was running when it was parked but won’t the fact that there’s no plates mean that the air flow isn’t being controlled? Not sure what to do at this point. Most likely going to buy new choke plates and a choke shaft, just trying to think if there’s a reason it could be setup this way in a dual carb system. I’m pretty new to carbs so I’m trying to learn as much as I can. Hopefully you see this, and thank you in advance !!
I actually just realized the holes for the choke shaft are plugged in the one that doesn’t have it. It looks too clean to be someone messing around with it
Hmmm they both should have chokes. You would in essence have an unbalanced engine at startup. Did you double check the model at the base of the carb? 260Z are awesome, currently building one on the channel.
@@CarsBikesandCoffee that’s what I thought too, but it’s literally welded close. For now I decided to keep it and get the car started to see how it runs. I just installed them but now having issues with getting fuel. tried getting it running and it was cranking but not starting. Sprayed some starter fluid into the carbs and started for a second then died. Took a look at the inside of the carb and realized it’s not getting any fuel. Pulled the line from the mechanical fuel pump to the fuel rail and no gas there either. Pulled out the mechanical fuel pump to make sure that the arm is in the right position, and it is. Tried to manually pump it and didn’t produce any gas. Chased back down to the plastic fuel filter and didn’t have any gas in it or gunk either. Went to the back to check the electric fuel pump, it’s definitely not working since I’m not hearing it turn on, but I was going to bypass it for now to see if I can get the car started. I was also wondering if the fuel filter in the electrical fuel pump was clogged. The weird thing is when I pulled off the electric fuel pump inlet from the gas tank, no gas came out? I have about 6 gallons of fresh gas in there, I can’t imagine it’s low on gas ? Not sure what’s causing this problem. By the way car runs good for a few seconds if I put gas straight into the carbs. My last step will be checking the lines themselves, but after draining the gas tank I had no particles or any debris in there so they should be clean. Right now my problem is at the pumps, please let me know your thoughts !
Sounds like you’re on the right track. Check also that you’re getting power to the electric fuel pump if you haven’t. You should be able to get a start from just the mechanical pump. Might be a couple things going on. You checked/flushed the fuel line I recall?
@@CarsBikesandCoffee thank you again for getting back to me, I actually got her started yesterday!! I had a problem with the idle being at 3k and I thought I had messed up setting the screws but thankfully after looking around I realized the throttle linkage wasn’t allowing the plates to fully close. I just finished up for the day, engine sounds good and healthy. Now I just have to bleed the brakes and the clutch, and she’ll be on her maiden voyage!
Hi from NZ, I have a 32 dgv on a 78 ford escort sport. The choke butterfly shaft is worn, as well as where it goes through the body making it loose. Is there anyway to repair this. Cheers.
Thanks for your reply. I know replacement shafts are available so will order one of those. I will attempt to repair housing, but will look out for old carbs with good housings. Thanks.🍻🍻
Hi again, just wondering what the 32/36 part mean, mine says 32 only. Guessing it's the diameter of the primary. Is 36 the secondary diameter. If so does mine have the same size for both.
had a gas leak soaking throught the base connector gasket and i ended up buying a new 3236 dgev carb and did not replace the base plate for the manifold. The new carb worked fine with no vacuum/gas leaks for about a month then it all of a sudden srarted leaking gas through the new gasket in the same place it did before. What can i do to permanently fix this issue? When the gas leaks obviously its idling poorly and basically breaks down until it starts again. I need to correct this asap. Thanks for your help. Any suggestions would be great. Truck is sitting there in my garage waiting on me until i can fix this issue and all i want to do is drive it. Nobody in my area knows anything about weber carbs or wants to work on them so i feel like im on my own. Thanks
+Puck sounds frustrating! Okay, so when you replaced the carb it worked fine for a month or two? It almost sounds as if the float or the valve isn’t shutting off the gas and it spills over into the carb down into the intake manifold.
With all due respect You put the 135 main jet on secondary side and 145 on primary side. I have never seen the bigger main jet in the primary side. So double that please.
Pegasus auto racing has all of the parts for a Weber DGV and is a great source. They supply a lot of Weber 32/36 DGV parts to the Formula Ford guys so they have a complete inventory. I get my parts I order in two days.
Hey wondered if you might have any advice; mine is seeming to leak small amounts of fuel from the accelerator pump diaphragm when the engine is not running. All you have to do is accidently touch the outer casing of it and fuel drips down it. I'm concerned in case this happens while running too without me knowing. Any idea on the problem and any tips for fixing it?
I think one of my carbs had that problem too. So is it coming out of the lever area? Has it been recently rebuilt? Also, just for good measure has the float been/need adjustment?
Thanks for getting back to me. Yeah it's definitely coming from the lever area, both underneath and from the slit in the front of the cover. It seems to be when the accelerator is pushed rather than just randomly. There also seems to be a smell of fuel in the air even after the cars stopped running. It was rebuilt a year or two ago, is my late dad's kit car and I'm trying to get to grips with it you see; so I don't know whether the floats have been or need adjusting. Any help greatly appreciated, searched for hours online with no joy.
@@CarsBikesandCoffee Ok thanks, well I've got a new diaphragm and spring on the way so I'll replace that and see if it continues; maybe move onto the float afterwards if nothing changes. It's a Marcos 2L Coupe from'86, 2L Ford Pinto engine.
I have watched this vid. and nowhere did i see what i was looking for . There are ball bearings in this carb and i pulled up the master kit on Ebay and it shows them in the kit where do they go ?
-- I have a DFEV and i replaced the top gasket and in doing so i think i left out a bearing. I found it on the floor the next day and do not no where it goes .is there more than one ?
+BILL LEITZ ah okay. I believe the DF variants had the ball under the accelerator pump valve, I found a picture that might help #45 is what you’re after. Good luck! carsbikesandcoffee.weebly.com/uploads/1/2/0/8/120813631/img_1569.jpg
+Moondrip the dcd is slightly different than the dgv that I rebuild here. Maybe they sent you the wrong one? Is yours like this? www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/237.htm
Quick question here: I think the emulsion tubes on my 32-36 are seized in the housing, they didnt slide out as yours did, otherwise my whole Carb came apart without much fuss. Any ideas from anyone on safely persuading them out of there?
Update: I got the emulsion tubes out, one came free with compressed air through the jet socket, and the other I had to gently pry out with a pick. This carb had water inside at one point and the brass components were slightly oxidized, hence the tricky removal.
Weber settings Jets Primary Secondary Idle 55○ 50 ○ Main 135 ? 140 ? Air 160 ? 165 ? I don't understand the four 🤔 Please tell me the location from Japan
+Rico Lopez I want to say the stock carb was a Hitachi. But people swapped as they did also on the Z to the Weber 32/36. The DGAV is a water choke instead of a manual choke. That would work though!
@@CarsBikesandCoffee As Ralph Kramden said: Hardee har har har!! OK here we go I can send a couple photos if there’s a way to do that. I have removed my Weber DGAV from my 1980 MGB and have installed the little bearing kit that replaces the bushings. I did this on the primary shaft. Putting everything back together, the online info talks about being sure the butterfly flaps close fully. I find that mine close fully if I have the flaps on the bottom in the right position but otherwise they don’t fully close. This is reflected in a lever mechanism (see photos) which when in the extended position does not let the primary flap close fully, but when put in the “down” position, the flap closes fine. I hope this is understandable. Is this as it should be or is there something wrong?
I can get a Italian weber off ebay with adapter kit for $150.00 shipped,i just throw them out and get a new one i think the Chinese ones are around $60.00 YMMV ive been a mechanic for 20 years to me its not worth the hassle to rebuild them
You made a very well produced video. I used a Weber 32/36 DGV when I raced my Datsun 510 in Improved Touring in SCCA. I had a brass float fail in one of my first races with the car. The result was fuel overflowing out of the carburetor. Fortunately I did not have a fire which would have been catastrophic. After that I used a plastic float in the carburetor and never had a problem. A race car with solid bushings transmits a lot more vibration than a street car. The tracks we ran on in Colorado were pretty rough compared to the ones I raced at out of state. I am sure that could have been a contributing factor to the brass float failing. I would suggest inspecting the float for stress cracks anytime you have the top off. Another tip I would suggest during a disassembly/rebuild is to take the cover gasket and trace around it on a piece of paper. It is easy to mark on the tracing where each jet, venturi, etc goes. When I raced I would print off copies so that I could mark them up if I changed jets on the carburetor as well as the results of the change.
Hi from the UK! This carb is standard on Ford Cortinas built in the 1970s and 1980s (now classic cars in the UK and used a lot for kit cars) and your two videos are great. The careful, clear description of the process is perfect for anyone to feel confident to strip and re-assemble the carb. The camerawork is also the best I have seen on such a video. Well done - great job. I have taken my carb off and it will soon be on the kitchen table to start the reconditioning.
Ah thank you so much! I appreciate you watching and good luck on the rebuild of your carb!
My primary and secondary jets and tubes were all mixed up and this video helped me understand how they are numbered thanks.
Right on!🤘🏻
Great video, I only wanted to check on the procedure for setting the float valve, which I scrolled through to, and watched that. It was infinitely better than the other short videos in here that failed to give the necessary detail that you provided. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
One of the best-made rebuild videos I've ever seen. A one-armed monkey could follow this... and I did. Instant fan and subscriber. 'Nuff said.
Thank you! Appreciate you watching
Best instructional video I have ever watched!!
Aw right on! 🤘🏻🔥
Very good video to disassemble and rebuild carburetor. I just did my 32/36 after your instructions for my Ford Taunus and it worked perfectly. Thanks a lot from Germany 👍
Right on!!🤘🏻
Excellent video. I have one of these on a 77 midget instead of a Stomberg. I'm mostly familiar with SU carbs from Sprites and my midget runs rich and the carb is crusty, so got myself a rebuilt kit and will follow your instructions, especially with respect to the careful ordering, videoing the whole thing to act as memory, documenting components and NOT flinging the spring across the room!
Great video and very detailed I have you to thank for being able to rebuild my Weber. Keep up the great videos!
Dude..... AWESOME video!!! I absolutely hate messing with carbs and I just bought a mud truck with a weber on it and it was running like s**t! I tore down and cleaned the carb then found this video while I was reassembling it. Your video helped me understand carburetors better and what all the parts are. Very good, informative video. Thank you for taking the time to do this!!
+Otis Deal right on!! So awesome you did it. Thanks for watching and have fun muddin’!
Accelerator pump valve assy that holds the “squirter” in place is actually a check valve with a bb in it. 13:30. Shake to ensure bb is free, blow and suck lightly to ensure check valve function while covering two side holes. Do not use carb or brake cleaner as it has a nylon insert inside. Better still, just replace it when you rebuild. Most kits dont have this part.
Bro, you saved me from scratching a hole in my head, thanks
Right on! 🤘🏻
Great video! and thanks for showing how to adjust the float assembly too.
Great video and I am impressed with how beautifully made these carbs are.
I'm happy i found the video
Cause i have one of those in the Renault im building
And it's in dire need pf attention.
I think i would use thread lock on the butterfly screws
Hi, i don't understand
You have put the 145 jet in the primary and the 135 in the secondary.
Isn't it in the primary (small butterfly) the small jet and in the secondary (big butterfly) the largest jet?
Thank you
So glad I found your video, I was a little hesitant to completely disassemble my weber because I was sure I would forget how to put it back together. My only carb experience has been some old Ford 94s and a quadrajunk about 15 years ago, so I am a little rusty. Thanks to your detailed step by step instructions, its back together and ready to throw on the manifold. Great job! Btw, who knew pinesol would clean a carb so well?!? Maybe an old school trick, but it's new to me.
+Richard Martinez right on! Stoked it helped you out. Yeah Pinesol, who knew?? Thanks for watching!
Excellent job on this pair of videos. I'm a fan and will subscribe.
Thank you!
@20:46, you state the plastics should be 35mm from bottom to top. The plastic floats are 27mm tall so that only leaves 8mm from top of float to top of lid. Does that sound correct? I see 18mm clearance from top of float to lid so that would be a 44mm total bottom to top referenced in other places. Confused.....
Perfect tutorial! This will be a great help on my Justy project.
Right on! Thanks!
Great video, I have the same on an old Jeep and want to fine tune it and this will help a lot. I also have a set of cross shaft bearings to install. Have a good one !
Thanks! Right on!
I have a plymouth arrow pickup 1980 and a d50 ram 1986, I'm putting weber 32/36 (Spain) my question is what throttle cable do I get in replacement of the old ones?
Very helpful video, i have an issue where im missing an idle jet on one side. The one that remains is like the one in the video that threads in. But i cannot find a single replacement online. Only idle jets without threads do you know where i can get them or if use those with the “idle jet holder”
Or is the idle jet look like one piece but its actually in the holder
Im getting ready to rebuild one for a Mazda B2200. Thanks for the info
+Jonathan Smith awesome! Thanks for watching!
Your badass man two great videos
Step by step love it have a 32/36 Weber on my 85 Nissan 720 z24 engine what a great upgrade
Haynes Carburettors Book is also a great resource for rebuild Weber carbs.
I highly recommend the Pat Braden Weber Carburetor Book - Excellent!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Another good one that has information related to Weber 32/36 DGV carburetors is Jake Lamont's book "How To Build And Maintain Competitive Formula Ford 1600 Motors". He has a lot of recommendations that would apply to street cars if you are interested in performance modifications.
This is a beautiful tutorial!!! I feel like i can do this!
Thank you! You got this!!🤘🏻
Very nice job man. You just saved my ass. Subscribed!
Aw right on! Glad you found it helpful!🤘🏻
You should tighten down the shaft nut first, because it will pull the plate off to one side when you tighten the nut and likely will bind. Tighten shaft nut first to get permanent lateral shaft position then tighten throttle plate.
This is an awesome tip! Thanks!
Nice video as you make it very easy to follow step-by-step as I'm about to rebuild one of these carbs I have on a 1975 Volkswagen bus I've heard isn't the best kind of carburetor to use on a bus but hoping it will work good again.
+The Music Connect thank you! I appreciate you watching! Good luck on the rebuild! Love the buses, I had a ‘79 and a ‘65
Thanks for posting this video. Very well explained. On my carby, when the fully opened and has reached its stop the secondary throttle does not fully open. Why would this be so? [as per 8:40 mark on video]
Appreciate you watching! There is a small linkage on the side that pushes the secondary open, is it jammed in any way?
@@CarsBikesandCoffee
No, it is not jammed. I also saw a clip on TH-cam at; www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber-carb-second-barrel-not-opening-1280380/ that has much the same thing. The butterfly valve shafts have flat spots on the shaft, so the linkages cannot have moved around the shaft [tight fit]. By the time the first valve has reached its end of travel, the second valve has only opened about 1/2 way. Maybe I need to weld a bit to the linkage that goes to the 2nd valve---see 7:53---so that the bent piece at where your thumb is at 6:36 start to open the second valve sooner.
I have not pulled the carby apart, I just noticed that the second valve does not fully open, I am wondering why.
+Ross M hmm I don’t think you should have to weld. It’s tough without seeing it. The big question, did it work fine before or has it always been like this. Can you post a video of it to check it out? I’m curious if the order of the primary shaft linkages is off?
thanks for the video ! can you tell me if there is a place that i can print out an exploded parts page of a 32/36 dfav ? to keep for records and future use ? thank you
Here ya go: carsbikesandcoffee.weebly.com/uploads/1/2/0/8/120813631/weber_32_36_diagram.pdf
You made no ref to spring as you put linkage together. Reason? And how can I get the linkage pieces I'm missing? Tks
I've got an issue with my Weber dgav 32/36. The primary throttle plate is stuck open and I'm wondering if it's adjustable. Or do I have to buy a whole new assembly to close the plate? I have no adjustment on my idle screw whatsoever. I've been running the carburetor for the last 10 years on a 1.8 L Isuzu 4-banger and it performs well it's just been trial and error trying to adjust this thing and they're supposed to be pretty simple so I'm assuming that open throttle plate is my issue. Hope this finds you. Thanks for the video for you have given me enough confidence to take my throttle pump apart haha cheers
+Nedly for the throttle butterfly take a look at the steps around 4:30, that should help. Could be the cause of the idle screw issue. Give it a shot and let me know! Thanks for watching!
@@CarsBikesandCoffee Awesome! That's what I initially thought. With that much of an opening on the primary plate, there's no way in hell I was going to get any action with the idle speed screw. Thanks for the response and the video! Cheers man!
@@CarsBikesandCoffee hey man I appreciate your response on my last comment. I was able to fix the issue with the throttle plate. I have a lot more adjustment on the idle speed screw. The other issue I have now is emissions. Over the years I've kind of struggled passing smog but was able to dial it in pretty good. Some years it went pretty smooth but now I'm running like 7% carbon hahaha it's been a little high in the past but never that high. I'm going to try to play with the jetting. In the past smog tests, I'm wondering if the plate partially stuck open was feeding it just enough air to pass the low speed test. I'm gonna play with it and see how it goes. Thanks again man. Cheers🤙
+Nedly right on!! Stoked for you. Smog is tough, maybe a good cleaning of everything, and get that engine really warmed up before going will for sure help.
I have yet to see a video above 144p that actually goes through the 32/36. I need to learn how to tune mine for my BRAT
vladsmad are you not able to see my videos at 1080?
Amigo how much you want to charge me to rebuil my aisin
Tercel 1.5 carburator.?
Thank you
Great video, it really helped, thank you
Right on! 🤘🏻
Why does fuel come through the primary ventury when idling, checked the fuel level in fuel bowl and found ok, in fact a little bit low
Sounds like the float valve isn’t shutting all the way possibly.
1987 Mitsu montero with a weber 32/36. Just had a fail today. Truck is now revving at 4000rpm at park. it happened after driving it all day. Both flaps are now fully open and are not closed at the start.. Is this an electronic choke issue? Just ordered a rebuilt kit, but don't know what I need. I checked the cabling and the throttle pedal cable assembly works. Any knowledge of the failure?
Is the the throttle return spring unhooked maybe?
@@CarsBikesandCoffee it’s the rerun cable. It’s locked up. Can’t release. Ordered newer version on cable but needs to be retrofitted and done with a transmission fluid and filter change. Not fixed but hooked up a bungee cord to pull back on throttle
Ah, you got it figured though, nice! Bungee cords come in handy
Very useful thanks man , I definitely going to check your videos
Right on! Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
Awesome video! Thanks for the help!
I have a quick question, I’m running a single Weber with brass floats in a 74 620 p/u
Should my float height still be 41mm?
Thanks!
From my understanding, yes, same height.
Super cool video, very useful Thank you very much
The engine switches off when the speed is switched from the third speed to the second speed. Or stop in a position when waiting for the light signal
What do you propose to?
+hashkoun thank you!!
So to make sure I understand, when you shift gears from third to second or when you are at a stop light, the engine stops? Could be a few things but sounds like your idle speed isn’t high enough or there is a clog.
clogged idle jet
Hello, please tell me on which machines weber 32/36 stood with a mechanical choke?
great video! motivates me to fix mine up and get it back running, keep it up! also cant wait for the 260z videos as i own one myself.
Thanks so much! I appreciate it. Yes you have to get yours running! The 260z is going to be a good one. Hope to get those videos posted soon. Thanks for watching!
Most carburetors I've ever worked with have the screws securing the throttle and choke blades staked (expanded) on the end to prevent them coming loose and getting sucked into the engine. If you try to simply remove them you'll damage the threads in the shaft. Is this not the case with the webers?
They are staked
@@CarsBikesandCoffee Did you grind down the staking and use new screws for the throttle and choke?
New screws were used, yes. Old screws lubed for removal.
I recently bought an 85 cj7 that has this carb on it. It runs rough and I’ve done all the normal tube up stuff to get it running right but it’s still rough. It hesitates in second gear from time to time. Really 2nd to4th it will hesitate. Not all the time though. Sometimes it runs great. Would my carb cause it to run rough. I know on my Harley it does. Carberated vehicles are new to me. Any advice I’d appreciate. Great video too!
+Ryan Cornelius thanks for watching! So assuming timing was part of the tune up you mentioned, when it hesitates, is it bogging down? Have you checked fuel filter(s) and the gas (is it new or old)? If it has been sitting for awhile the old fuel in the carb could clog a jet or the passages. Doing a rebuild wouldn’t hurt, but replace fuel filters and drain the fuel if it is old.
Thanks for this video 👍🏽
Hey man this is the best video out there on rebuilding these carbs, thank you so much. I wanted to ask you a quick question, I pulled two of these off of a barn find 260z and I’m trying to figure something out. One of them doesn’t have the choke shaft or plates??? And the other one has the choke shaft but not the plates? I’m very confused I was told it was running when it was parked but won’t the fact that there’s no plates mean that the air flow isn’t being controlled? Not sure what to do at this point. Most likely going to buy new choke plates and a choke shaft, just trying to think if there’s a reason it could be setup this way in a dual carb system. I’m pretty new to carbs so I’m trying to learn as much as I can. Hopefully you see this, and thank you in advance !!
I actually just realized the holes for the choke shaft are plugged in the one that doesn’t have it. It looks too clean to be someone messing around with it
Hmmm they both should have chokes. You would in essence have an unbalanced engine at startup. Did you double check the model at the base of the carb? 260Z are awesome, currently building one on the channel.
@@CarsBikesandCoffee that’s what I thought too, but it’s literally welded close. For now I decided to keep it and get the car started to see how it runs. I just installed them but now having issues with getting fuel. tried getting it running and it was cranking but not starting. Sprayed some starter fluid into the carbs and started for a second then died. Took a look at the inside of the carb and realized it’s not getting any fuel. Pulled the line from the mechanical fuel pump to the fuel rail and no gas there either. Pulled out the mechanical fuel pump to make sure that the arm is in the right position, and it is. Tried to manually pump it and didn’t produce any gas. Chased back down to the plastic fuel filter and didn’t have any gas in it or gunk either. Went to the back to check the electric fuel pump, it’s definitely not working since I’m not hearing it turn on, but I was going to bypass it for now to see if I can get the car started. I was also wondering if the fuel filter in the electrical fuel pump was clogged. The weird thing is when I pulled off the electric fuel pump inlet from the gas tank, no gas came out? I have about 6 gallons of fresh gas in there, I can’t imagine it’s low on gas ? Not sure what’s causing this problem. By the way car runs good for a few seconds if I put gas straight into the carbs. My last step will be checking the lines themselves, but after draining the gas tank I had no particles or any debris in there so they should be clean. Right now my problem is at the pumps, please let me know your thoughts !
Sounds like you’re on the right track. Check also that you’re getting power to the electric fuel pump if you haven’t. You should be able to get a start from just the mechanical pump. Might be a couple things going on. You checked/flushed the fuel line I recall?
@@CarsBikesandCoffee thank you again for getting back to me, I actually got her started yesterday!! I had a problem with the idle being at 3k and I thought I had messed up setting the screws but thankfully after looking around I realized the throttle linkage wasn’t allowing the plates to fully close. I just finished up for the day, engine sounds good and healthy. Now I just have to bleed the brakes and the clutch, and she’ll be on her maiden voyage!
Украина смотрит вас спасибо за хороший обзор карбюратора. у меня такой же но с автоматическим пуском. фиат аржента 2.0 л.
+Иоанн Рюрикович спасибо за просмотр моего видео!
Hi from NZ, I have a 32 dgv on a 78 ford escort sport. The choke butterfly shaft is worn, as well as where it goes through the body making it loose. Is there anyway to repair this. Cheers.
+E P Local hey there! I know there is a way to use bearings as bushings, you have to drill the holes and I believe there is a kit out there to do it.
Thanks for your reply. I know replacement shafts are available so will order one of those. I will attempt to repair housing, but will look out for old carbs with good housings. Thanks.🍻🍻
+E P Local totally! Good luck!
Hi again, just wondering what the 32/36 part mean, mine says 32 only. Guessing it's the diameter of the primary. Is 36 the secondary diameter. If so does mine have the same size for both.
+E P Local you are correct. You have 32mm for both.
You are really good. Thanks this video.
Super helpful! Fingers crossed I didn't screw anything up!!!
Thanks! You got this!!
had a gas leak soaking throught the base connector gasket and i ended up buying a new 3236 dgev carb and did not replace the base plate for the manifold. The new carb worked fine with no vacuum/gas leaks for about a month then it all of a sudden srarted leaking gas through the new gasket in the same place it did before. What can i do to permanently fix this issue? When the gas leaks obviously its idling poorly and basically breaks down until it starts again. I need to correct this asap. Thanks for your help. Any suggestions would be great. Truck is sitting there in my garage waiting on me until i can fix this issue and all i want to do is drive it. Nobody in my area knows anything about weber carbs or wants to work on them so i feel like im on my own. Thanks
+Puck sounds frustrating! Okay, so when you replaced the carb it worked fine for a month or two? It almost sounds as if the float or the valve isn’t shutting off the gas and it spills over into the carb down into the intake manifold.
With all due respect
You put the 135 main jet on secondary side and 145 on primary side.
I have never seen the bigger main jet in the primary side.
So double that please.
Can you please tell me where I can find just the jets?
Just do a google search, Amazon, eBay, there are a few specialty shops that carry a jet kit too.
Pegasus auto racing has all of the parts for a Weber DGV and is a great source. They supply a lot of Weber 32/36 DGV parts to the Formula Ford guys so they have a complete inventory. I get my parts I order in two days.
Do you have one on automatic choke adjustment sir?
This one has a manual choke
Hey wondered if you might have any advice; mine is seeming to leak small amounts of fuel from the accelerator pump diaphragm when the engine is not running. All you have to do is accidently touch the outer casing of it and fuel drips down it. I'm concerned in case this happens while running too without me knowing. Any idea on the problem and any tips for fixing it?
I think one of my carbs had that problem too. So is it coming out of the lever area? Has it been recently rebuilt? Also, just for good measure has the float been/need adjustment?
Thanks for getting back to me. Yeah it's definitely coming from the lever area, both underneath and from the slit in the front of the cover. It seems to be when the accelerator is pushed rather than just randomly. There also seems to be a smell of fuel in the air even after the cars stopped running. It was rebuilt a year or two ago, is my late dad's kit car and I'm trying to get to grips with it you see; so I don't know whether the floats have been or need adjusting. Any help greatly appreciated, searched for hours online with no joy.
I’ll bet it’s what you thought, the diaphragm. I would just rebuild it again and go through it o you know for sure. What kit car is it?
@@CarsBikesandCoffee Ok thanks, well I've got a new diaphragm and spring on the way so I'll replace that and see if it continues; maybe move onto the float afterwards if nothing changes. It's a Marcos 2L Coupe from'86, 2L Ford Pinto engine.
Sounds awesome! Let me know if you run into any snags
Can you tell me what repair kit you use please?
Link is in the description, thanks for watching!
I have watched this vid. and nowhere did i see what i was looking for . There are ball bearings in this carb and i pulled up the master kit on Ebay and it shows them in the kit where do they go ?
+BILL LEITZ hi Bill, there isn’t any ball bearings in this variant of the carb. Which master kit did you get by chance? Maybe for the DFV style?
-- I have a DFEV and i replaced the top gasket and in doing so i think i left out a bearing. I found it on the floor the next day and do not no where it goes .is there more than one ?
+BILL LEITZ ah okay. I believe the DF variants had the ball under the accelerator pump valve, I found a picture that might help #45 is what you’re after. Good luck! carsbikesandcoffee.weebly.com/uploads/1/2/0/8/120813631/img_1569.jpg
@@CarsBikesandCoffee Thanks i'll take the top of carb back off and that should be the info i was looking for to get the job done
+BILL LEITZ awesome! Let me know how it goes!
Thanks for a great video lots of information.
Thank you! Appreciate you watching 🤘🏻
I have a 36/36 dcd. Bought a new filter cuz mine disnt have one - only to find out the new filter was too tall, didnt fit. Am i missing somethin?
+Moondrip the dcd is slightly different than the dgv that I rebuild here. Maybe they sent you the wrong one? Is yours like this? www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/237.htm
@@CarsBikesandCoffee I found a hammer and forced it down - worked like a charm! Keep up ur great work here! :)
+Moondrip ah right on! When in doubt, hammer. Lol thanks man
hi there, i have a question, from were the starter takes the elettric current?
thanks
Directly from the battery
Quick question here: I think the emulsion tubes on my 32-36 are seized in the housing, they didnt slide out as yours did, otherwise my whole Carb came apart without much fuss. Any ideas from anyone on safely persuading them out of there?
+T.Jack maybe a little persuasion from the bottom of the fuel bowl by some pressurized air, keeping a finger on the tubes. Good luck!
@@CarsBikesandCoffee thanks, I'll give it a shot
Update: I got the emulsion tubes out, one came free with compressed air through the jet socket, and the other I had to gently pry out with a pick. This carb had water inside at one point and the brass components were slightly oxidized, hence the tricky removal.
Weber settings
Jets Primary Secondary
Idle 55○ 50 ○
Main 135 ? 140 ?
Air 160 ? 165 ?
I don't understand the four 🤔
Please tell me the location
from Japan
Been the float level the same without the gasket...
So...there's a few extra parts in those rebuild kits eh?
Thank you! ........ Great video!
What's the jet size for a l28 engine
This should help, 22680.005 is probably your carb type: carsbikesandcoffee.weebly.com/uploads/1/2/0/8/120813631/weber_dgv_jets.jpg
Bro I have a cuestión do you know which is the right Weber for my 620 Lb20 2.0 ?
My friend give me a 32/36 Dgav
+Rico Lopez I want to say the stock carb was a Hitachi. But people swapped as they did also on the Z to the Weber 32/36. The DGAV is a water choke instead of a manual choke. That would work though!
Cars, Bikes, and Coffee thanks my bro i do appreciate all your help,so i let you know what happens
What rebuild kit did you use?
The link for it is in the description but just in case, here you go:
Parts used: iFJF Weber 32/36 rebuild kit amzn.to/2TDWOuN
@@CarsBikesandCoffee I totally missed it. Thank you and great work!!
No worries! Thanks for watching!
The gasket would not fit my carburetor was way too small..
Stripped my air fuel screw what to do 32/36 Weber
Oh no! Was it just the screw or the carb body too?
Have any for sale ?
Unfortunately I don’t
thank you
Thanks for watching!
Curt-can I ask a question?
Absolutely!
@@CarsBikesandCoffee As Ralph Kramden said: Hardee har har har!!
OK here we go I can send a couple photos if there’s a way to do that.
I have removed my Weber DGAV from my 1980 MGB and have installed the little bearing kit that replaces the bushings. I did this on the primary shaft.
Putting everything back together, the online info talks about being sure the butterfly flaps close fully. I find that mine close fully if I have the flaps on the bottom in the right position but otherwise they don’t fully close. This is reflected in a lever mechanism (see photos) which when in the extended position does not let the primary flap close fully, but when put in the “down” position, the flap closes fine.
I hope this is understandable. Is this as it should be or is there something wrong?
Sorry I couldn’t resist, but I’m happy to help where I can. Best way is to message the photos via Instagram if you have that.
@@CarsBikesandCoffee No apologies required-I enjoyed the joke!
@@CarsBikesandCoffee photos sent via Instagram, two messages, I don’t know Instagram well.
I just soak the sugar with wd40 along with every other moving part. A quick wipe and boom. Lazy way complete
Sugar? Darn autocorrect from sucker I’m thinking. Yeah, that would work too. 🤘🏻
This video saved my butt haha
+Yotaoverland right on! Thanks for watching!
Thanks sir
8:36
I can get a Italian weber off ebay with adapter kit for $150.00 shipped,i just throw them out and get a new one i think the Chinese ones are around $60.00 YMMV ive been a mechanic for 20 years to me its not worth the hassle to rebuild them
To each their own, I get it. I’m one of those who just hates adding to landfills.
@@CarsBikesandCoffee i appreciate your video, i guess my problem has been the mainshaft wearing into the housing on them .Keep up the great uploads
Yes, that is a pain to fix. Appreciate you watching! 🤘🏻
👍🏻
So I guess I'm buying a new carburetor...
I watched the whole video to learn how to change the diafragm with 4 screws and you didnt change it 😒
Great video. Thank you 👍