I consider myself well above the average Weber carburetor tuner. You have done a great service to the Weber community. The emulsion tube explanation was spot on coupled with fuel level / main jet. I’m looking forward to the needle seat size explanation. I hope you put a wideband on the TVR to see how it runs with today’s gas. 👍👍👍
Dear sir, I can not express the gratitude that I have for you sharing the Weber Carbureator knowledge with your viewers. If you are not a automobile mechanic or teacher you certainly should be. I watched all their videos on this subject and found my problem (which was what I suspected ) dirt in the idle jet.Thank you fo sharing .🙂👍👍👍👍👍🇺🇸
You, sir, are an excellent teacher. I’m in the process of fitting a couple of new 40s on my 1973 BMW 2002. Your step-by-step approach to sorting out the issues is unparalleled. I’ve never considered an CO2 sensor, but now I may, so that I’m absolutely certain that the calibration is as close to perfect.
This could easily be a video used in technical classes at a high school or at a car club coarse, very thorough, clearly explained, and the quality of the video itself is also top notch. I'm glad to have discovered this channel!
I've been watch this series to gain a better understanding of my Weber 38DGAS Outlaw on my 1985 Nissan 720 Pickup. I have learned so much, I'm not as nervous anymore to tinker with jets and idle settings anymore. Thank you. I was originally running a 32/36DGEV on my truck's Z24, but it has some performance modifications such as a larger performance camshaft and a exhaust header with pollution control delete. I've been trying to cure some issues with my engine tune, but it has been difficult because there are numerous things going on for me to chase down. I did a tune-up recently and when I replaced the plugs I found the old plugs to be heavily carboned. So that means I was running too rich. I bought smaller idle jets and main jets and so far so good. I think the rich condition is now leaner, but I'm not sure how much. I took the main jets down from 145 to 125. The idle jets are 45. I've noticed since I made the change the transition from idle to acceleration is a bit more jerky and rough. Should I revert the idle jets or the main jets back to original? Or should I look elsewhere? I have also found that nothing I do engages the high-idle choke circuit. My choke appears to be working properly, but when the choke is on the engine will not run, and certainly not idle high. Does it need to be more lean? Could timing be a factor in determining if the choke will work? The engine runs so rough when cold, it takes frequent restarts until the engine is warm enough to idle, and even then it idles poor until fully warm. This was an issue before any recent changes, like the jet swaps mentioned before. I have not found there to be any vacuum leaks, however it's not completely out of the question considering all of the pollution control delete items I've had to plug up. Also considering the engine might need a valve adjustment as a possible solution. Also possible it could have a sticky valve that loosens up when it warms up. Any thoughts toward this is truly appreciated.
This is far and away the best description of the functional elements of a Weber Carb that I have ever seen. Clear drawings and a lucid explanation. Takes all of the mystery out of it and makes clear how to get your Weber set up correctly.
I wrote a Comment on Your first Video (part one) Minutes ago. Now, by being 3/4 through with the second Video, I have only one Comment: more then excellent! I feel like unscrewing my 38 DGAS out of my Reliant Scimitar , put it on the Passengerseat of my VW Passat, go to Calais (3 hours), catch the Ferry to Dover, and drive however long it takes to visit you. And then we´ll have a Drink and talk about Excellency in Teaching and bringing Facts to interested People. In Germany we say: I bow my Head in front of Your Way to transport this Knowledge. I hope I sufficiant can express my Admiration for Your Work with my School-English!
Thank you so much for these Weber videos. I had a fault on my classic Jeep (with RV8) whereby it would run sweet from cold for the 1st 2 minutes then go all lumpy and choked up until the engine cut out. I stripped the carb down, cleaned everything, blew it out re-assembled and still the same. Then I checked the butterflies after watching your video and they weren’t quite matched. I adjusted them as accurately as possible and the fault disappeared completely. I figured as the auto choke was gradually closing the butterflies, more holes were active on one side making it run way too rich for the total air at that given point. Anyway it’s all good now and because you explained from first principles, I was able to figure it out 👍
Thank you!! This video has really helped me dial in my weber 38 on my Jeep CJ. Understanding what each jet/part does really helped me narrow down my problem.
What a great explanation of how this weber works I never understood why the float level was so important I completely understand that now your a legend find all your videos very informative 👍 thank you
What a brilliant video. Even though my Webber is a 34datr of which I have problems with. I have gained so much knowledge from learning how the basic Webber works. I now feel confident that I can look in the correct place for solutions to my Webber woes. Cheers Steve 👍
I was aware of the venturi effect but then had a "eureka" moment when you were demonstrating it using the straw in the glass. No longer will I need to suck on a tube when siphoning a liquid from one container to another ... I will just use my compressor to prime the transfer tube. No more nasty surprises in the mouth if I fail to see to liquid rising to the top of the tube! 👍
I agree wholeheartedly with the last post. I now feel I understand how my carb works. Pity your TVR doesn't use the DCOE carbs as I need to rebuild the carbs on my old Alfa. But I'm sure 90% of the info is transferable. You deserve many more views. Many thanks and good luck.
@@D3Sshooter It had a pair of SUs originally. One didn't work, and I had a dgev, so I used it, thinking to repair the SU, but I'm still using it these many years later.
My 38 idles high after driving around and the engine is warm. I have to slightly pump the pedal to bring it back to normal idle. Such at a stoplight. Could the problem be in the RPM screw in the progression circuit? Also sometimes have a dieseling issue. It was running fine, and so this is a new issue. Any feedback would be much appreciated. I am learning more from these videos. Thank you for these.
I would suspect for the firts issue a butterfly that does not return in full , as metal expands when hot. having to pump slightly then sets the butterfly where it should be. When you say dieseling , do you refer to pinging ? that is an ignition problem with to much advance.
@@D3Sshooter Thank you for your reply! I know how busy you must be! Yes, on the first issue that makes sense to me. But then that must be a quality issue? Its a Spain Weber. I live in Arizona and right now its pushing 120 degrees here. the second issue was sputtering out after I turn off the ignition. Not really pinging....thank you again......I love your teaching style.......
Hey..first thank you for the big effort in this video..second..pls I have a Weber adf 32 50/250 carb in Fiat 131 1.6 My question is about air correction jets..I have two sizes 185&170..how to install each of them back again correctly..I mean which size should be installed in the main primary barrel and which in the other barrel..many thanks
Thanks for the comments, I assume that you refer to the emulsion tube a 185 should do and makes it more lean. At the end you need to test drive the car and tune it. It might be to lean , then replace it with the smaller
Great vids!! And thay intro is KILLER, probably the best on TH-cam, lol. I am about to do a 4.0 head on a Jeep 258. I have a 38 now (stock 258), runs great!! A bit rich at WOT, hence me here, lol. But would the 38 be enough once I get the 4.0 head? I feel like it would be, but get conflicting results in the net. Go figure, right?
I have a Weber 38/38 DGAS 3C which has an adjustment screw on the body, in-between the two gears that operate the throttle plates. Otherwise it looks exactly like the one in your videos, except that there's no return line for the fuel. Any idea what this adjustment screw does? I can't find anything on the web... 😞
Fantastic professional explanation of the workings. Has helped me better understand what I'm actually looking at. thou I do have a question On the DGas 38 can you tell me what is the purpose of the small tube which appears to be blanked of with a screw ? as mine is exactly the same and was wondering what it should be connected to ? if anything ?
Hi D3Sshooter, I have a technical question, on the DCOE, IIRC, what you used on the Pinto, the air corrector only affects High RPM, if I remember correct, while fuel jet affects low and high RPM's. Is this the same with the DGAS upright models as well? Thank you!
Hi ,Steve If my 38 weber's choke valve is stuck and old and stalling valve is damaged. Will it cause the car to stall? The car idle very well but as soon as it's warming up,it stalls. Please give me guidelines
Hi. I have a Ford Capri 3.0 Ghia V6 Essex automatic 1978.Can you tell me how much fuel is required in a D Gas38 carburettor before you engine will start. As I am having cold start problems. Engine can take upto 8 long cranks before it will start. I have tried different start procedures ie. 1 pump on the accelerator 2 / 3 / 4 seems to make no difference thou sounds as sweet as a nut once started and runs well. Carburettor has been stripped cleaned new service kit fitted and professionally set up. New fuel pump. Yet problem persists. Help please. Regards Nick
Very typical, that is because fuel evaporates once you stop the engine. Heath still builds up for a while... Trying to start the engine some time later will require the fuel to be pumped up. With a mechanical fuel pump, it takes indeed that long as pump works slowley.. The way to fix this " an electrical fuel pump", turn on the contact, wait a few seconds and then cranck it.. It will start immediate.
@@D3Sshooter Hi. Can I have a little more info on how easy or difficult it will be to convert my twin weber carburettor from manual to electric choke as I would be interested in having this done, if it will seriously improve starting my Ford Capri 3.0 automatic. Kind Regards Nick
@@nickandrews29 , well there is a manual (cable based solution) and there is the automatic based solution (water based). There is no real electrical conversion as far as `i am aware. I assume you refer to the automatic based solution. For that you only need to procure the adaptor piece that goes on the weber ( housing with the bimetal element, fitted to the side of the weber where your current manual choke housing is). bold that on after you removed the mechanical choke part. Then connect the cooling houses to your engine so that the cooling water flows through the choke housing, that will affect the bimetal and automatically adjusts the choke position. IMO, stay clear from the automatic and use just the cable version.. much easier and better. Regards Steve
Sir, I have a question. When fully closed, the throttle blade on the choke-side (the side the throttle linkage attaches to) barrel is not fully closed, meaning the bottom progression hole is very slightly exposed. Is there a way to adjust the throttle blade so that it fully covers the progression hole? The progression hole on the other barrel is fully closed. I have backed out the idle speed adjustment screw, and I also played with the screw between the two barrels but I still can't get the blade to fully close. Do I need to buy a new carb? Thank you!
HI! D3Sshooter May i know how to time my ignition timing in 3.9 rover with edelbrock 1404 500cfm , and what will be the static timing and total timing . Please guide me how to do it/ Thanks.
D3Sshooter my friend gave me a aftermarket weber 38/38 DGEV im going to use it my jeep 4.0 242 engine , Can you recommend the jetting for 4.0 jeep with 6 cylinder?
Boa noite tudo bem Eu tenho um Toyota Land Cruiser motor 3 f carburador Weber 3236 Não consigo acertar sai muito fumo preto o que que eu faço posso fazer
I have a weber 38/38 DGES , had removed the idle jets to clean them . I noticed one idle jet has one hole for fuel n 3 holes for air while the other idle jet had 1 hole for fuel and 2 holes for air . It this normal in a weber 38/38 ?
My 1999 3.0 v6 double cab Ford is driving me crazy. It's definitely running too rich because there's black exhaust soot on the towbar and I can literally smell the fuel. Let's out alot of blackish smoke when I accelerate hard. Park it for a few hours and start it up, and it runs well for like 2 minutes and then starts sputtering and stalling (as if it's starving for fuel) and then switches off. Try starting it up and it refuses to start but leave it for a few minutes and start it up and it starts
I suspect that you have a needle valve which is faulty , thus the fuel level in the fuel chamber raises to high. That makes it rich.black smoke and starting issues when hot... Change the needle valve first....that is a very low cost item 10 euro max
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
This is how you teach, and this is a man that knows what he is doing. If you can’t explain it simply, then you don’t understand it.
I consider myself well above the average Weber carburetor tuner. You have done a great service to the Weber community. The emulsion tube explanation was spot on coupled with fuel level / main jet. I’m looking forward to the needle seat size explanation. I hope you put a wideband on the TVR to see how it runs with today’s gas. 👍👍👍
thank you for the comments
Amazingly well done. I learned more in 30 minutes than years of reading books. Thank you! This will help get my Capri 2.8 back on the road.
Thanks for the comments
Dear sir, I can not express the gratitude that I have for you sharing the Weber Carbureator knowledge with your viewers. If you are not a automobile mechanic or teacher you certainly should be. I watched all their videos on this subject and found my problem (which was what I suspected ) dirt in the idle jet.Thank you fo sharing .🙂👍👍👍👍👍🇺🇸
You, sir, are an excellent teacher. I’m in the process of fitting a couple of new 40s on my 1973 BMW 2002. Your step-by-step approach to sorting out the issues is unparalleled. I’ve never considered an CO2 sensor, but now I may, so that I’m absolutely certain that the calibration is as close to perfect.
Glad to help
This could easily be a video used in technical classes at a high school or at a car club coarse, very thorough, clearly explained, and the quality of the video itself is also top notch.
I'm glad to have discovered this channel!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comments
I've been watch this series to gain a better understanding of my Weber 38DGAS Outlaw on my 1985 Nissan 720 Pickup. I have learned so much, I'm not as nervous anymore to tinker with jets and idle settings anymore. Thank you.
I was originally running a 32/36DGEV on my truck's Z24, but it has some performance modifications such as a larger performance camshaft and a exhaust header with pollution control delete. I've been trying to cure some issues with my engine tune, but it has been difficult because there are numerous things going on for me to chase down. I did a tune-up recently and when I replaced the plugs I found the old plugs to be heavily carboned. So that means I was running too rich. I bought smaller idle jets and main jets and so far so good. I think the rich condition is now leaner, but I'm not sure how much. I took the main jets down from 145 to 125. The idle jets are 45. I've noticed since I made the change the transition from idle to acceleration is a bit more jerky and rough. Should I revert the idle jets or the main jets back to original? Or should I look elsewhere?
I have also found that nothing I do engages the high-idle choke circuit. My choke appears to be working properly, but when the choke is on the engine will not run, and certainly not idle high. Does it need to be more lean? Could timing be a factor in determining if the choke will work?
The engine runs so rough when cold, it takes frequent restarts until the engine is warm enough to idle, and even then it idles poor until fully warm. This was an issue before any recent changes, like the jet swaps mentioned before. I have not found there to be any vacuum leaks, however it's not completely out of the question considering all of the pollution control delete items I've had to plug up. Also considering the engine might need a valve adjustment as a possible solution. Also possible it could have a sticky valve that loosens up when it warms up.
Any thoughts toward this is truly appreciated.
This is far and away the best description of the functional elements of a Weber Carb that I have ever seen. Clear drawings and a lucid explanation. Takes all of the mystery out of it and makes clear how to get your Weber set up correctly.
Glad it was helpful!
I wrote a Comment on Your first Video (part one) Minutes ago. Now, by being 3/4 through with the second Video, I have only one Comment: more then excellent! I feel like unscrewing my 38 DGAS out of my Reliant Scimitar , put it on the Passengerseat of my VW Passat, go to Calais (3 hours), catch the Ferry to Dover, and drive however long it takes to visit you. And then we´ll have a Drink and talk about Excellency in Teaching and bringing Facts to interested People. In Germany we say: I bow my Head in front of Your Way to transport this Knowledge. I hope I sufficiant can express my Admiration for Your Work with my School-English!
TXS for the comments
Thank you so much for these Weber videos. I had a fault on my classic Jeep (with RV8) whereby it would run sweet from cold for the 1st 2 minutes then go all lumpy and choked up until the engine cut out. I stripped the carb down, cleaned everything, blew it out re-assembled and still the same. Then I checked the butterflies after watching your video and they weren’t quite matched. I adjusted them as accurately as possible and the fault disappeared completely. I figured as the auto choke was gradually closing the butterflies, more holes were active on one side making it run way too rich for the total air at that given point. Anyway it’s all good now and because you explained from first principles, I was able to figure it out 👍
Demonstration @2:00 is about as clear as it can be. Well done.
thank you for the comments
Thank you!! This video has really helped me dial in my weber 38 on my Jeep CJ. Understanding what each jet/part does really helped me narrow down my problem.
Thanks for the comments
What a great explanation of how this weber works I never understood why the float level was so important I completely understand that now your a legend find all your videos very informative 👍 thank you
What a brilliant video. Even though my Webber is a 34datr of which I have problems with. I have gained so much knowledge from learning how the basic Webber works. I now feel confident that I can look in the correct place for solutions to my Webber woes.
Cheers Steve 👍
the carburettor playlist is not in order. this has been an awesome series. Thanks
Thanks for the comments
Thank you for this. Drawings are especially helpful.
my pleasure
I was aware of the venturi effect but then had a "eureka" moment when you were demonstrating it using the straw in the glass. No longer will I need to suck on a tube when siphoning a liquid from one container to another ... I will just use my compressor to prime the transfer tube.
No more nasty surprises in the mouth if I fail to see to liquid rising to the top of the tube! 👍
Thanks for the comments,
I agree wholeheartedly with the last post. I now feel I understand how my carb works. Pity your TVR doesn't use the DCOE carbs as I need to rebuild the carbs on my old Alfa. But I'm sure 90% of the info is transferable. You deserve many more views. Many thanks and good luck.
Much appreciated and thanks for the comments
We’ll explained once again Steve 👍
Thanks for the comments
Very well visualized and granuarly explained. Danke aus Deutschland
Thanks for the comments,
Thank you very much. Nobody could have given a better explanation
You are welcome!
Love this so much n thankyou the Weber master
Thanks for the comments
С хорошим учителем понятно и младенцу . Супер.
Super nice video. Thank you for sharing this amazing class. Regards from México. 🇲🇽
Excellent video. Thank you!
The carburetor looks beautiful!!
thank you for the comments
Thank you for the explanation.
Regarding the enrichment tube, under which circumstances are they activated ?
Another great explanation. Thanks Steve
thank you for the comments
THE BEST. Video very nicely explaind thank you sir .
I take my hat off to you.
Fantastic.👍👍👍
You are most welcome
Absolutely fantastic explanation. Thank you so much.
Thanks for the comments
Excellent explanation. I have one of these on a Volvo b18 motor.
thank you for the comments, indeed those are also fitted on the volvo
@@D3Sshooter It had a pair of SUs originally. One didn't work, and I had a dgev, so I used it, thinking to repair the SU, but I'm still using it these many years later.
Incredible demonstration, very helpful
well explained in detail great job on this
Thanks for the comments
Very nice explanation and video. Thank you very much!
My 38 idles high after driving around and the engine is warm. I have to slightly pump the pedal to bring it back to normal idle. Such at a stoplight. Could the problem be in the RPM screw in the progression circuit? Also sometimes have a dieseling issue. It was running fine, and so this is a new issue. Any feedback would be much appreciated. I am learning more from these videos. Thank you for these.
I would suspect for the firts issue a butterfly that does not return in full , as metal expands when hot. having to pump slightly then sets the butterfly where it should be. When you say dieseling , do you refer to pinging ? that is an ignition problem with to much advance.
@@D3Sshooter Thank you for your reply! I know how busy you must be! Yes, on the first issue that makes sense to me. But then that must be a quality issue? Its a Spain Weber. I live in Arizona and right now its pushing 120 degrees here. the second issue was sputtering out after I turn off the ignition. Not really pinging....thank you again......I love your teaching style.......
Hey..first thank you for the big effort in this video..second..pls I have a Weber adf 32 50/250 carb in Fiat 131 1.6
My question is about air correction jets..I have two sizes 185&170..how to install each of them back again correctly..I mean which size should be installed in the main primary barrel and which in the other barrel..many thanks
Thanks for the comments, I assume that you refer to the emulsion tube a 185 should do and makes it more lean. At the end you need to test drive the car and tune it. It might be to lean , then replace it with the smaller
Thank you so much! I love it
Great vids!! And thay intro is KILLER, probably the best on TH-cam, lol.
I am about to do a 4.0 head on a Jeep 258. I have a 38 now (stock 258), runs great!! A bit rich at WOT, hence me here, lol.
But would the 38 be enough once I get the 4.0 head? I feel like it would be, but get conflicting results in the net. Go figure, right?
thanks for the comments
I have a Weber 38/38 DGAS 3C which has an adjustment screw on the body, in-between the two gears that operate the throttle plates. Otherwise it looks exactly like the one in your videos, except that there's no return line for the fuel. Any idea what this adjustment screw does? I can't find anything on the web... 😞
Fantastic professional explanation of the workings. Has helped me better understand what I'm actually looking at. thou I do have a question On the DGas 38 can you tell me what is the purpose of the small tube which appears to be blanked of with a screw ? as mine is exactly the same and was wondering what it should be connected to ? if anything ?
Thanks for the comments, that is the vacuum advance as it was not used on the engine it was mounted on
Hi D3Sshooter, I have a technical question, on the DCOE, IIRC, what you used on the Pinto, the air corrector only affects High RPM, if I remember correct, while fuel jet affects low and high RPM's. Is this the same with the DGAS upright models as well? Thank you!
In essence yes
Any one know how to set up the fuel float, how to set up the idle and all the things on this carburator??
Did you do a tuning video? Or can I follow a dcoe tuning guidelines?
Yes , I did have a look on my channels playlist and look for DCOE
@@D3Sshooter thanks mate! Legend!
So I'll use that same method for the 38/38 while I'm building the twin dcoe setup.
Any advice for a system running 2 dges/dgas 38s? I’ve had nothing but problems out of them.
Thank you 👌
Hi ,Steve
If my 38 weber's choke valve is stuck and old and stalling valve is damaged. Will it cause the car to stall? The car idle very well but as soon as it's warming up,it stalls. Please give me guidelines
Hi. I have a Ford Capri 3.0 Ghia V6 Essex automatic 1978.Can you tell me how much fuel is required in a D Gas38 carburettor before you engine will start. As I am having cold start problems. Engine can take upto 8 long cranks before it will start. I have tried different start procedures ie. 1 pump on the accelerator 2 / 3 / 4 seems to make no difference thou sounds as sweet as a nut once started and runs well. Carburettor has been stripped cleaned new service kit fitted and professionally set up. New fuel pump. Yet problem persists. Help please. Regards Nick
Very typical, that is because fuel evaporates once you stop the engine. Heath still builds up for a while... Trying to start the engine some time later will require the fuel to be pumped up. With a mechanical fuel pump, it takes indeed that long as pump works slowley.. The way to fix this " an electrical fuel pump", turn on the contact, wait a few seconds and then cranck it.. It will start immediate.
@@D3Sshooter Hi. Can I have a little more info on how easy or difficult it will be to convert my twin weber carburettor from manual to electric choke as I would be interested in having this done, if it will seriously improve starting my Ford Capri 3.0 automatic. Kind Regards Nick
@@nickandrews29 , well there is a manual (cable based solution) and there is the automatic based solution (water based). There is no real electrical conversion as far as `i am aware. I assume you refer to the automatic based solution. For that you only need to procure the adaptor piece that goes on the weber ( housing with the bimetal element, fitted to the side of the weber where your current manual choke housing is). bold that on after you removed the mechanical choke part. Then connect the cooling houses to your engine so that the cooling water flows through the choke housing, that will affect the bimetal and automatically adjusts the choke position. IMO, stay clear from the automatic and use just the cable version.. much easier and better. Regards Steve
@@D3Sshooter Thank you Steve, advise much appreciated. Keep up the good work really enjoy your video tuitions. Kind Regards Nick
Hi, was just wondering what size/model of ultrasonic bath you would recommend if you were about to attempt this job?? Thanks
I use a 15 Ltr type... there are many of these on the market... use the one that heaths as well. good luck
Hi D3Sshooter, can you please share a link to where i can purchase a complete rebuilt kit for my Carb. much appreciated
Sure, here is where I buy www.carburateurwinkel.nl
@@D3Sshooter thanks so much :)
Sir, I have a question. When fully closed, the throttle blade on the choke-side (the side the throttle linkage attaches to) barrel is not fully closed, meaning the bottom progression hole is very slightly exposed. Is there a way to adjust the throttle blade so that it fully covers the progression hole? The progression hole on the other barrel is fully closed. I have backed out the idle speed adjustment screw, and I also played with the screw between the two barrels but I still can't get the blade to fully close. Do I need to buy a new carb? Thank you!
Sir: Is the 38/38 dges baseline the same for two liter Volvo engine?
It might do yes , much depending on the engine
I have Weber 38 need help on the butterfly’s. If they are fully open will it be the problem For my truck not passing CO & HC
Butterfly for the chock
Fully open is perfect, that is what it should be when the engine is warm... so no problem
Great info. 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Steve, what solution did you use to clean the carby in the ultrasound cleaner
Check out Steve other carburetors videos.
Thanks for the comments, tickopur RW77
HI! D3Sshooter May i know how to time my ignition timing in 3.9 rover with edelbrock 1404 500cfm , and what will be the static timing and total timing . Please guide me how to do it/ Thanks.
I have video on that on my channel, just have a look on project orange
Thank you...
D3Sshooter my friend gave me a aftermarket weber 38/38 DGEV im going to use it my jeep 4.0 242 engine , Can you recommend the jetting for 4.0 jeep with 6 cylinder?
Hi, are both idle jets of the same size? Greetings from Venezuela
yep
Thanks!
Thank you so much for the super... It is really appreciated
Boa noite tudo bem Eu tenho um Toyota Land Cruiser motor 3 f carburador Weber 3236 Não consigo acertar sai muito fumo preto o que que eu faço posso fazer
I have a Weber 32/36 down draught on a 1300 Kent motor serial 78 IF AB D 3 K 12 can anybody please give me jetting info Thanx
I have a weber 38/38 DGES , had removed the idle jets to clean them . I noticed one idle jet has one hole for fuel n 3 holes for air while the other idle jet had 1 hole for fuel and 2 holes for air . It this normal in a weber 38/38 ?
No that is not normal, both should be the same
My 1999 3.0 v6 double cab Ford is driving me crazy. It's definitely running too rich because there's black exhaust soot on the towbar and I can literally smell the fuel. Let's out alot of blackish smoke when I accelerate hard. Park it for a few hours and start it up, and it runs well for like 2 minutes and then starts sputtering and stalling (as if it's starving for fuel) and then switches off. Try starting it up and it refuses to start but leave it for a few minutes and start it up and it starts
I suspect that you have a needle valve which is faulty , thus the fuel level in the fuel chamber raises to high. That makes it rich.black smoke and starting issues when hot... Change the needle valve first....that is a very low cost item 10 euro max
@@D3Sshooter thank you so much for the advice. I will get that sorted asap.
@@D3Sshooter is the needle valve the one that sits by the float in the carburettor? Please can you describe it for me.
@@Ghost-cf5oj Yes it is... its inside the fuel chamber