Foxbody Mustang Innova OBD1 Code Reader
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2018
- My 1989 Foxbody Mustang finally throws a code/Check Engine light!! In 15+ years of ownership, and countless mods, I have not ever had my check engine light come on. I demonstrate the Innova Code Reader and diagnose what is up with my car?!
Innova OBD1 Code Reader:
www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Fo...
Extension Cable:
www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3149-Ex... - บันเทิง
Thank you, This helped me out BIG time..
Cool, glad I could help. Please check out my other videos, and consider subscribing, if you don't already!! lol
Man such a beautiful car...I truly miss my Built stroker 89' LX Hatch..thanks for sharing this. I would've used this on my foxbody if I had any check engine lights but thankfully I didn't at the time. But I'll definitely use this on my 94 F-150 4.9 Liter thats running a rough idle after its warmed up. I know its emissions stuff. Tired of throwing parts at it. Luckily I got my money back to buy this scan tool.
Thanks so much for the kind words, my friend! I truly appreciate when I get positive feedback in the comments.
@@Metalcop5150 No doubt man...you gained my subscription 👍🏽🤘🏾. Keep sharing the good stuff..!
Appreciate the video bro
SHOW TIME Glad it helped you out! Please consider a sub and check out the rest of my videos. Thanks
Thank you man.
Sincerely glad I could help!!
Your code 18 might be the 22k resistor in the engine harness that protects the ecu from voltage spike to save the ECU most likely you wont find a spout ground issue it's the idm input signal is missing to the ecu, its basically the ignition secondary signal to the ecu for timing control
So question when I try to do my koer test it won’t do nothing have the same tester and set up you got
Honestly, I don’t remember off the top of my head. My best advice is to follow the instructions in the code readers owners manual *exactly!! That’s what I did, and I didn’t have any issues.
Need that for my 93 cobra , thank you
Cool, glad I could help. The old school OBD 1 stuff is simplistic, but it still needs to be checked and maintained. You might be surprised how many codes you have lurking in there?! I know I was!! lol
Great video.
Start koeo test but does nothing. Idle drops and comes back up but it does not tell me the engine size. I have a solid square and the link triangle. Please help!
I don't have a clue what you're trying to say. Please ask your question again, and proofread it, before hitting Reply. Thanks.
@@Metalcop5150
I have performed key on engine off test with success. When I try to start the "key on engine on/run" test my scanning tool does not perform the test. I specified in the initial comment what it was doing exactly. I read in the book that it will not start the koer test unless I get a 11 or 111 on koeo test. Is this true? And if so does this mean I need to erase previous codes? Thanks
@@jasonsimpson9206 Yea you must get the 11 or 111 pass code before the engine run test can proceed. So in other words, yes you need to erase the codes, at the very least. You’re supposed to make the recommended repairs, then run the key on engine off again. It sounds like you may be stuck between the Test and Hold functions? Start over and follow the instructions to the letter. These code readers are cheaply made and finicky as hell. You might even have a bad one, right out of the box.
@@Metalcop5150
That would be my luck. Is there a way to tell if the reader is bad? Literally just got it this morning. Innavo is the name I believe. Problem with correcting the issues that are throwing codes is that it's emissions shit. All codes are related to emissions. Of course I deleted all of these components back in 2000. Car runs great. Just have a rev of 2100 on a cold start. Bought the reader just to see what this old girl had to tell me from the years of beating. Is the process of deleting these codes a tough one? I can't seem to figure it out.
@@jasonsimpson9206 Deleting the codes is easy, just follow the instructions. I did the same thing, since my smog pump is also long gone. Then run the KOER test.
Code testers that just give out codes don't consider that other parts cause codes. A Actron CP9690 checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, oxygen sensor test, ABS, SRS, and MORE! The screen is well-lit. It retains the memory of codes. It has code-connect to diagnose codes. It checks from 1984-2013 and is updatable using a USB cable from EBAY.
That scanner, you mentioned, is OBD 2 primarily and it also does OBD1. I'm not sure if all of its' nifty features will work with the archaic OBD1 system. Most of those systems you mention, ABS and SRS weren't installed on my 1989 Mustang, or even invented yet! lol. I went with a very basic code reader, for my very basic OBD1 car. I couldn't justify spending $250 for something that can be accomplished with a paper clip!!! lol Thanks for watching and commenting. Please consider subscribing, if you don't already.
@@Metalcop5150 I paid $170.00 and OBDII reads live etc. OBDI reads codes and other tests. Code- connect can diagnose codes according to that year and engine. You go ahead with your paper-clip and misdiagnose cars. Code testers show the definition for that engine. Different years and engines have different codes. A Snap on scanner also checks OBDI and has troubleshooting feature. To REALLY diagnose cars, you need a code tester.
@@hankbridges5055 I did just fine with my basic code reader, thank-you very much. No mis-diagnosing whatsoever, as discussed in my videos. All of the issues were known, and confirmed, due to modifications that I made to my car. I did find a couple of new codes, and I corrected them. My point is that you don't need an expensive OBDII scanner for an old car, that does not support it. For my old school car, my Innova old school scanner did the trick, very nicely.
@@Metalcop5150 On my OBDI Ford, I had vacuum at the EGR and oxygen sensor rich codes. Code- connect told me the solution to both. That was used by my Actron CP9690. Without it, I replaced the EGR and EGR valve position sensor. Those codes stayed there. Then the code-connect solved the problem. That's why they made that option.
Does it scan OBD1 Ford/Lincoln ABS codes? Like that of the factory Rotunda Super Star II scanner.
Do you have to warm up the engine first to do the step
David Puga No. In fact, if you let it warm up, you may lose some codes that aren’t stored. Some guys swear by warming up first, though. You could always try both, and see if there’s a difference?! I did not warm my car up first. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please consider subscribing if you don’t already!!
If the car won't start, you can check codes present and memory codes. KOER codes are best checked warmed up. Check the radiator and oil first. Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It shows the definition and has code-connect to diagnose codes. It works from 1984-2013 and is updatable using a USB cable from EBAY. It uses 4 aaa batteries, not included, under the rear cover. To erase memory codes, you can disconnect the battery cable for a few minutes. The tester can erase memory codes using the fast codes.
What do I do if the car won’t try to tread the Code unless it’s on the Code flashes on and off so it won’t even read unless the car is running
Korey Lyons I don’t understand the question? Can’t you have the car running and read the code? Or does the car not run? I’ll be happy to help, just try and be more descriptive and clear with your question.
Metalcop so the code reader says it to keep the car off but it won’t scan for codes while it’s off. I tried turning the car on and it will scan for codes but hasn’t pulled any codes because the code flashes on and off it’s not always constant. So I’m trying to figure out how to catch one of the codes.
@@koreylyons2683 You may have a problem with your EEC IV computer itself, or possibly with the code reader? You should be able to read codes Key On Engine Off AND Key On Engine On? I'm not sure why it isn't reading properly, while the engine isn't running. Are you getting the 'all clear' code? Unlikely, but maybe you don't have any codes!? That would be nice... lol Just like in this video, I had NO codes in the KOEOff test.
im getting code 11, then 10, then 33. 33 is EGR valve fault.. i already replaced the EGR valve right now. and still shows and still idles weird when you press the gas the idle stays up and slowly comes down
R Romero The ‘surging idle’ is very common for the Fox Bodies. There are tons of good threads and videos on the many various fixes. I run an Anderson Ford Motorsport PMS system and that fixes my idle!
@@Metalcop5150 oh sorry I have a 1993 Ford F150 5.0 flairside not fox body lol
@@rromero1091 Doesn't matter, it's the same engine and the same EEC IV computer controlling it. So I'm fairly certain that even though you have an F150, it would suffer from the same surging idle issues that the Mustangs did.
@@Metalcop5150 I see. my problem is that I changed the EGR valve already. yesterday. still runs at high idle. I have a video on my channel of the idle. the weird thing is when I disconnect the sensor on my IAC valve that I replaced as well. the idle is normal and truck runs normal. the problem is when I connect that sensor it runs rough. idles at 1k rpm if you hit the gas it goes to 2500 and slowly comes down.
@@Metalcop5150 its also manuel trans. so if I drive it. when I push the clutch it revs high.
You forgot the steering wheel ,brake , overdrive button and throttle test that it requires . Any thoughts on that ?
I’m not sure exactly what you’re talking about? I followed the instructions in the manual, to the letter. (I think?) My car is a manual, so no overdrive button, at any rate. Care to explain, more in depth, what you’re asking? Thanks for watching and commenting. Always looking for opportunities to learn!!
@@Metalcop5150 yes mine is an manual trans 2.3 1988 Ranger. The book should have been written more simple .... On page 34 it mentions for KOER test that exactly at (some unclear point ) when the "4 or 8 cly" number is shown- you suddenly turn the steering wheel , push the brake , turn on&off the overdrive button and romp on the gas pedal .
I did this with and without those steps and got two different code readings. The book is not concise about the when and for how long after the cyl number is shown .
@@tonyrandazzoe8210 I’ll be sure to check that out!! Thanks, my friend.
@@Metalcop5150 Yes sir :-)
Can u clear.codes with this reader?
Yes you can!
iN MY 95 jEEP ALL i HAVE TO IS TURN THE KEY 3X'S TO ON THEN COUNT THE CODES AS THEY BLINK. i HAVE TWO CODE READERS ON THE jEEP...oNE FOR ENGINE AND ONE FOR TRANSMISSION. jUST SAYING i NEED NO SCANNER. iTS BUILT IN.
Lara Greene The much more sophisticated OBD 1 in my Mustang is the same. You can run a jumper wire or paper clip and count the flashes of the check engine light. I go over this in the video.
@@Metalcop5150 i"m saying MINE DOESNT NEED A PAPER CLIP OR JUMPER WIRE...or a scanner.I dont see why yours would!! You just turn the key to on 3x's and the engine light starts blinking the codes.
Lara Greene Yes, by all means let’s compare the far superior OBD 1 that Ford installed on their vehicles a full 8 model years before Jeep did. I mean the Ford system is literally better in every measurable aspect, But hey if you can go into diagnostic mode, and then see the litany of codes that your Chrysler/Jeep has?! With only the turn of a key? Slow clap of congratulations to you. 🏆 Jeez, honestly who cares?! 🙄
Are you aware that someone has stolen your content? Channel called "Weekly Tools" has taken some of your content and is using it as their own.
Thanks for the heads up!! I’ve contacted that lame channel, and I’ll (attempt) to report the video to YT.
Hope you nail the bastards! Jim@@Metalcop5150