Foxbody Mustang, F150 and various Ford EEC IV Repair. A9L A9P etc.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- I had a friend in the states mail me this non-working A9P computer that he had in his 1964 Ford Falcon. His car has a complete drivetrain swap from an EFI mass-air foxbody mustang.
From the age of all foxbody EEV IV computers; in my opinion they "ALL" need to have their capacitors replaced regardless of their operating condition. The capacitors being bad can cause many troubleshooting issues in regards to a hunting idle, bad TPS signal among other ailments. The computers can still run the car but the cap's will all eventually leak and cause significant EEC damage leading to a non-runner. Hopefully it will not leave you stranded.
If you have never encountered this issue (even if your car is a primo garage queen) I implore you to pull your EEC and have the capacitors replaced as soon as possible before any significant damage is caused and the repair becomes much more costly.
Thanks so much for this very informative video. Just helped us fix our 1992 Ford Fairmont ECU in our 65 Mustang. We had lost all hope until we watched this today. Fuel pump wouldn’t switch off. Replaced capacitors but still didn’t go. Closer inspection as per your vid showed corrosion to track from leaking capacitor. All fixed in 10mins and now works. Amazing.
Very glad to have helped.
@@Mike-FoxsAbroad Where do I get copastors?
@@Mike-FoxsAbroad Found them on ebay.
@@colt-ss3lw www.mouser.com
@@Mike-FoxsAbroad 👍
Thanks for helping me keep my '93 T-bird SC on the road!
Hopefully you keep that car. They were the pinnacle of sport luxury back in the day. Don't pop a head gasket!
@@johnhickman106 I have changed a few in my time. Gotta rebuild the 5-spd again though. I keep popping clutches too. 😂
They are very nice, a buddy of mine had one@@johnhickman106
your video is great i like your ecm tester is there any way i could get the wiring for your tester i just wanna to make sure i am using the right ecm pin thank you Mick i am from ithaca NY
I threw up a picture in the "Community " tab of my channel's main page. Hopefully you can make heads or tails of my schematic diagram.
thanks for the picture of the wiring for your ecm tester
thank you so much for this video!
Thank you
Thanks
Great repair video. One thing you didn't mention is that electrolytic caps are polarity sensitive. Be sure you match the original polarity. I repaired my A9L myself but have since gone to Megasquirt. Much more user friendly to tune and programmable inputs and outputs. Way nicer if you're heavily modified with a power adder.
I have a 96 F259 5.8 had an auto bought it modified to 5 spd , drove it about 100 miles ecu burned traces next to caps. You mentioned manual swap needing oxygen sensor re pin @ 6:40?
Repinning the O2 sensor harness is a thing on foxbody mustangs when swapping from auto to manual. I’m not sure if other vehicles require similar changes. If you can determine the pins and circuit that was effected you can possibly trace down your issue.
do you have a link to the coating for the terminals? And did you coat both the front and back?
Great video,i have much respect for people that can do soldering successfully and properly,i couldn't solder 2 things together even if my life depended on it "you got that soldered yet? I'm about to shoot you, nope just pull the trigger" ha ha ha, lol, i had a question,is there a site or someone that has the information on what everything does inside of a A9P or A9L computer? I'm just a curious person and was wondering what the capacitors are responsible for and the chipset etc?
I've been interested in learning more about electronics at this level. Any recommendations on where I could start? Any programs that are well recognized over others?
I couldn't really tell you where to start in the civilian sector. My background consists of twelve years in the USAF for avionics electronic repair.
I have an 1988 ford F150 is there a chance that even if the computer looks good and the capacitors do not seem to be leaking could the capacitors still be bad? your video was really good.
As a general guide I have found fewer than 20% of the capacitors that I've tested have remained within a 10% tolerance of their original specification. These things are 30-35 years old. Capacitors seem like the components that take down all vintage electronics. If your truck is a keeper then I would change them regardless of physical appearance.
@@Mike-FoxsAbroad Thank you, This truck is in great shape. fuel mileage started to go bad and I Changed a bunch of parts due to the codes I was getting and it turns over just wont start. I get 5 volt references at sensors though. I will track down some parts from mouser but there is so many choices. Lol
@@Mike-FoxsAbroad Just ordered some Panasonic capacitors from Digi Key as the shipping was quite a bit cheaper .
Okay if we do not have the sealing goo, what compound could a person get over the counter?
100% silicone, gasket sealer, nail polish and etcetera?
I suppose RTV would work in a pinch. It's just to keep the humidity from causing long term corrosion damage.
Clear Nail polish works fine in a pinch
Hi, I went in a different direction. I went rom t5 to AOD. Is it possbile I could have the same tracer burn you spoke of at 6:40 ? I can pull KOEO codes, but no KOER codes. (no action at all). Car runs perfect but rich. Any advice ?
I've never heard of getting EO codes and not ER codes. I'd love to help, but troubleshooting someone else's wiring remotely may as well be done by using a Ouija board. It's just not practical. I'd start by unplugging connectors and trying to run the ER test to see if you can isolate the circuit causing the issue.
@@Mike-FoxsAbroad thank you. No worries. Runs to good for stock motor to change or do anything.
That 8 pin chip that he said can get get corroded from a leaking capacitor. Does anyone know if I need to get a certain one? I see many 8 pin ic chips online but not sure if I need a certain one. One of the legs on mine is blown out and the chip is leaking out so I want to replace it. Already put all new capacitors.
Sorry, I have no idea where to get a replacement chip other than another donor EEC.
Have you ever worked on a pcm for a 7.3?
I've never had the opportunity to. I'd assume they would have similar componentry and build architecture.
Where is that 5v reference wire located?
What computer are you working on? I only know fox mustangs use pin # 26.
@@Mike-FoxsAbroad it’s actually a 95 f150, was hoping it would be similar.
Address or email to repair mine please thank you
😄 I don't think you'd want to ship it overseas.
great video, one question i have a 90 f150 and i did swap to manual trans, what do i need to do to the ecu? Thanks, louis
Are you back to the USA yet I want you to repair my computer
Great video. Original '88 5.0 LX was running great, now stumbles. Code Low TPS signal. Tested sensor, cleaned 10pin connectors, thought I might have harness problem. I'm going to check out the computer.
Great video thanks. Having just replaced the caps and a curiously messed up resistor, i suspect the adjacent cap acid had damaged it but what do i know, but watching this i think i need to go back in, never thought to solder the top side nor recoat. EEC-IV is inside on our e250 but feel I've done half a job so back into it, well once the goo turns up from that jungle website.
Question do you repair for other ppl? Im in u.s. i have a 95 auto
@@danielkennedy9152 I don’t think you would want to pay for international shipping both ways. I live in the UK.
thanks had a ford fairmont with stuffed capacitor and works fine now,awesome detailed video
very informative, thank you! I wonder what you think of replacing the electrolytic caps with polymer? They are supposed to last far longer than electrolytic but may have some extra complications in ordering the right ones because they act slightly different than the electrolytic ones so maybe it isn't as simple as just matching the voltage and uF ratings. Any thoughts? 🙂
There has to be a reason. Thinking they cant make polymer caps in the large values required. I'm not an electrical engineer so I can't say.
I would love to see a video on how to make the computer tester. It would really come in handy for me and my friends. Please do a video.
That would be very tedious, and I really don't feel like re-re- engineering it just for a video. This is a vid from my old personal channel that shows a schematic of what I did. If you know a bit about electronics and can decipher my lousy drawing, you can probably make one as well. th-cam.com/video/d5n_wKmueKM/w-d-xo.html
Do you have a link to the coating you put on the terminals afterwards for weatherproofing? And did you do front and back?
@@hu5tle- just search Amazon for “conformal coating”. They have liquid and aerosols. Kinda expensive for what it is. I did top and bottom.
How do you properly remove the coating on the J-port? I had to replace my old ECU and the replacement never had a chip installed so the port still has that coating. Also do I need to clean the contacts on the top and bottom? I don't want to damage it.
That coating on the pins is a thick lithium grease. I’ve seen on one occasion where the grease itself was causing an issue. Use a few q-tips and some brake cleaner to clean it off. Wet the q-tips and don’t spray directly on or into the EEC. Yes you need to clean both sides.
That is a great video, I'm working on a 91 bronco and I'm getting ready to open the computer
How much do you charge to look at ecu .
Looking at one? I wouldn’t charge much but remember, I am overseas and shipping it to me will require a customs form and can only be done via the USPS.
@@Mike-FoxsAbroad ty so much for your fast reply. .
Wow great video, you really got the right setup to test these. I have a question, maybe you could answer. I have a 1987 ford f150 I'm having problems starting the truck. All it does is crank. I got spark. I could hear each fuel tank fuel pump kicking in when I first turn the Ignition on
When I spray starting fluid into the intake, she starts, but then stalls, could this also be a computer problem? Would you know I appreciate it if you could answer that question? The only reason why I'm asking because I seen your tester had the green fuel pump light on there. Decide computer also control the fuel pumps. Thank you if you could help.
Very nice Buddy love the detail you put into your videos
Wow, great video I just came across this You're all set up nice little test set. I have a question, maybe you could answer, I have a1987 ford f150 I'm having a no start issue with my truck. All it does is crank. I have Spark, I can hear either fuel tanks. Fuel pump kick in when I turn the Ignition on the only way I get it to start. Is when i spray starting fluid into the intake. She will start, and then stall. Can this be a computer issue? Also, for the fuel pumps
I seen your tester had the green light on it. For your fuel pump, I'm just scratching my head. Why this truck won't start not knowing if this could be my issue? Maybe you could help me out. With that question, I would appreciate it, I'm out of New York. You reached me all the way over here with your video lol
@@nickpanhead7209 if you hear the pump prime for 1 sec after the key is turned then it’s not the EEC. Sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Remove a line from the fuel filter and start tracking it down.
@Mike-FoxsAbroad thank you so much for getting back to me, I'm away from my truck now for a few weeks, but I'll definitely check that out. I know fuel filter is clear. I removed it and blew through it with no. Issues?
But like you said, maybe it's something further back. Thanks again.I really do appreciate it
Great video what do you charge to refurbish A9L computers
I don’t think you would want to ship it overseas just so I can take a look at it.
Excellent!
24.febrero.2023
Hoy cambie los capacitores de mi ranger 1993, lleva 2 y estaban sulfatafos. Todas las mañanas en la primera ignición la bomba de combustible se queda activada por 5 o 10 minutos, al apagarse luego funciona de lo más normal
24.February.2023 Today I changed the capacitors of my 1993 ranger, it has 2 and they were sulfated. Every morning in the first ignition the fuel pump stays activated for 5 or 10 minutes, when it turns off then it works as normal
Super Amazing and Informative Video. This is Exactly what I needed to see. I’m having the exact same issue with my A9L after spending tons of time and money on Parts and troubleshooting! Thanks
Glad it helped!
test them and sell them to me. serious about that to
Can you do one on a 91 Ford f350 7.5?
@@hendricks177 Not sure. I live in England. I doubt you would want to pay shipping across the pond 2x just to find out.
Awesome video, thank you very much for the tips!
Great advice from one who knows and UK based too,my ecu will be in the mail soon,hope this channel goes from strength to strength!
Man, awesome video. I ran into a broken square pad under the cap on the edge of the board. I don't feel comfortable enough to make a jumper for it. Gonna send it off to a professional at this point. Thought I was gonna be good to go, but no dice.
Just solder the end of a small wire across the gap, and then trim the excess wire off when you're done with it. It's very easy to do.
@mike-foxsabroad - seen the video, have a 92 Ford Bronco, I’m in the UK, would you be prepared to look at the EEC? Regards, Wayne Smith
Where are you based? If you give me your email I'll contact you. We can then delete these messages to maintain privacy.
Have you ever had only ONE (1) DIAGNOSTIC PORT (THE SMALLER SINGLE WIRE PLUG IS NOT INCLUDED)
No. I’d be inclined to think that small single wire and pigtail connector was cut, removed, or corroded off from its wiring harness near the bigger diagnostics connector somewhere.
Can you help me out please? What part of the computer controls timing advance? My car won't advance timing and dumps excess fuel
Temperature sensor circuit is likely the issue
How much for one to states ?
Great repair video!
❤
Awesome video. But I have a question. The chip you pointed at @7:00. What is that chip for. Mine has two burnt legs and my car runs like crap and getting egr circuit codes and won’t rev up. It’s a intermentant problem. If you kno please fill me in. Thanks
Don't quote me, but my best guess is that chip is for the WOT cutout for the air conditioning. Without a proper schematic of the computer all I can do is follow the visible trace runs and try and determine what things are.
@@Mike-FoxsAbroad Do you kno what controls egr circuit. That’s the only codes I’ve been getting
@@michaeljones5273 Sorry I do not. Most likely a transistor. That is an odd code to be having. I would try another computer if possible as it's much more likely wiring or something else throwing the code.
@@Mike-FoxsAbroad I have located and purchased a new (used) computer. Going to try it. Praying it works out
what was the stuff in the bottle you put on the board to protect ?
It's literally called, "conformal coating". I bought it off of Amazon.
There should be no programming after changing out the capacitors? Also is there a way to check that the whole computer is in good shape without the little box you made?
There is no reprogramming required after replacing the capacitors. The best way to check the computer is to install it in the vehicle and run its own code scan. My home made tester is only for basic functionality. I would never build a tester that is able to check the entire computer as that would be far more elaborate, complicated and expensive than what it is worth.
@@Mike-FoxsAbroad I recently acquired a ‘91 Ranger that is low on power. I tried the jumper wire trick and got no codes. Then I took it to a local garage that had the SnapOn scanner and they could not get any data on the screen. Could the ecm be faulty! Thanks!
@@davidhorne2326 There is a high probability that replacing the capacitors will fix the no codes issue. It cant hurt anyways. Old cars are a gamble as you never know what the previous owner has done and possibly fried something.
I need a computer will you sell me one everybody over here in California wants like 800$ for one I’m broke man
$800? What's going on there in California?
I’ve got a couple handy. Message me and we will work something out!
do you still have one willing to get rid of?@@zacharyball5517
I think my 1990 ecu needs this. Wonder if a 63 volt cap is necessary or if I can use one of less voltage rating?
With electrolytic capacitors you can usually go to a higher voltage rating, but shouldn't go lower.
The higher the voltage rating of the electrolytic cap, and the lower the actual voltage going into it, the longer it will last, provided that the capacitor physically fits into the holes in the board.
@@davelowetsI believe the circuit voltage is less than 15V, thus 63V seems exceptionally high?
Is that thermal past you put on the board for weather what’s the name?
It's a rubberized coating. It's literally called a "conformal coating" on Amazon. Small bottles like I have here are like $15 and will last a lifetime. Unless your bottle cracks like mine.
Thermal paste is only for putting between the physical package of an I.C. and a heat sink that goes on tip of it.
The thermal paste fills the tiny irregularities between the surfaces of the I.C. and the heat sink, and makes the thermal transfer between the parts much more efficient. It is not used as a coating on a circuit board to help weatherize it.