what a time saver! OMG. Thank you very much. The fact that I cut out all the roof panels and tested it to fit, long before a cut my hole was the part that made so much sense. I installed my 10” Solar tube with no problems. Thank you again..👍 on your video
Don’t forget to check for missed nails! This is the first Velux install that have the flexible tubing instead of rigid reflective tunnel. I think this would best suit my needs.
This is a great video, thank you. Not trying to steal your thunder and I hope others will be glad they learned something new: I watched this video for a sun tunnel install and learned a trick I'd never even seen done in 20+ years of trades work. Plunge cutting with the sawzall, no need to cut a starter hole. Go to ~3:20 to see the plunge cut.
Excellent video! Now make one for replacing the flashing and dome when reroofing a house. Can they be replaced without disturbing the rest of the tube?
Thanks for this video. When you do your "starter" for the side flashing which way should the tabs be facing? Do you have a preferred roof sealant? Thanks again
Hi Jay. The starter can face either side. The purpose for a starter shingle is to further extend the flashing (flashing extender). For this type of project we prefer basic tar based sealant. Hope this helps sorry for the delayed response.
I'm preparing to do this step for the 14'' vex Sun Tunnel. The velux instructions say to have the roof underlayment go over the flashing: step #12: "overlap the top of the flange with underlayment to allow for proper drainage." -velux manual Can anyone elaborate on this or instruct? Should a fresh piece of underlayment go over the flange, or should the flange be slid under the underlayment already there carefully, or should it go on top of the underlayment as seen in this video?
We are having our old roof replaced this spring. Will have 2 14” sun tunnels installed. Since it will be installed during the new roof install, is there another way that it should be done? TIA
No, it's actually a lot easier to install these during a roof replacement. I would say that because of the vibrations (hammers, nail guns) it wouldn't be a idea to have your roofing company clean the inside lens before leaving because it is common to knock small particles into the lens making them extremely visible from the inside.
Hi. Hopefully you still read these comments... My roof is about 15 degrees but us roofed using roll roofing (GAF Liberty, with roll being 3.2 ft wide). Not sure how to install the tunnel using this kind of roofing material. It seems the same rules don't apply as in your video since the lower half of the flashing needs to be exposed. Help!
It might be best for you to hire a professional but this is something you can do as long as you are very careful. These lower pitches you really have to know what your doing. To simplify this, what you need to do is first install a 3x4' rectangle of self adhesive roll modified bitumen over your self adhesive base roll (4 ft length being horizontal) and install it centered over the hole. Once installed and adhered, then place your flashing above the 3x4' rectangle over the hole and use a chaulk and outline the outside boarder perimeter flashing. Remove the flashing and use a tar sealant ( 1 bucket should be enough), to seal from the outside edge of the hole up to the chalk outline. Once tard and sealed, re-install the flashing back over the area (centered over the hole and covering the tar), nail down the flashing ( make sure you nail 1 nail per every 6 to 8 inches around the entire perimeter of the flashing), as far away from the flashing walls as possible. Finally, cut a 3x3' sq of self adhesive modified bitumen and cut out a centered perfect circle just enough to fit snug around the walls of the dome (don't curl it up). Make sure it fits before pealing. Remove the peel and generously re-apply tar directly above the flashing covering the full metal flashing. Then, peal back the 3x3 sq and install directly above the dome covering the entire flashing. The most important part of this project is to have your flashing sandwiched between the 3x4 rectangle and the 3x3'sq. Hope this helps, please feel free to contact with any further questions or concerns. 512-284-5239 ask for Jose
@@AurumRoofing Thanks so much! I'd like to try it myself (for better or worse) since if the first one works, I'd like to install a few more in my house. So to be clear, here's what I'm picturing the steps to be 1) Cut hole in roof for the sun tunnel 2) Install a 3'x4' rectangle of self adhesive roll horizontally centered over the hole on top of the base layer (the layer that is already installed and I cut through in step 1). Do I also cut a hole in the 3'x4' piece for the sun tunnel before I install it or after? 3) Trace the outer edge of the flashing 4) Tar seal the 3'x4' rectangle are between the hole and the tracing of the outer edge of the flashing from step 3 5) Place the flashing over the tarred area and fasten with nails (or screws?) on the edge of the flashing every 6"-8" 6) Cut a 3'x3' square of self adhesive roll and cut out a circle to fit snugly around the base of the walls of the flashing (the part that goes up from the roof). This should lie flat on the flashing when checking to see that it fits. I could even mark where it lies on the flashing with chalk to help to know where to tar in step 7 7) Apply tar to the foot print of the 3'x3' square including on the base layer and flashing where it will fit and was checked in step 6. 8) Remove the peel from the 3'x3' square and place onto the area that was tarred in step 7 Does that make sense? Also for the step of installing the 3'x4' rectangle of self adhesive modified bitumen roll in step 2, does that just mean take off the peel and lay it on the base layer or do I need to add something to it?
I copied and pasted your questions and answered per question. Hope this this helps! 1) Cut hole in roof for the sun tunnel A: Cut the hole 1 inch bigger, that way you have room for error. Ex. if the tunnel is 14” make a 15’’ hole. Only cut the wood 1 inch bigger, not the roofing materials, these need to fit as tight to the walls as possible. 2) Install a 3'x4' rectangle of self adhesive roll horizontally centered over the hole on top of the base layer (the layer that is already installed and I cut through in step 1). Do I also cut a hole in the 3'x4' piece for the sun tunnel before I install it or after? A: Correct, cut the hole before you install it but dont nail the flashing until after you trace out the border to allow for seal application. My question to you is, Is the base layer covering the whole roof or just the tunnel area? Do you currently have a roofing system on? If so, what type? I ask this because if you’ve got an existing flat roofing system already say torch down, roll roofing, or self adhesive modified rolls. It's going to be very difficult to adhere the old to the new without having to scrape off the existing granules down to bear tar and heating with a heat gun of some sort. If this is the case you will have to reactivate the old tar with very high temperatures to allow the two to connect. If not done this way the new will never be 100% waterproof. Or the alternative reroof the entire section where you want the tunnel installed. 3) Trace the outer edge of the flashing A: Correct 4) Tar seal the 3'x4' rectangle are between the hole and the tracing of the outer edge of the flashing from step 3 A: Correct. When you apply tar, make sure you apply generously enough to where when you nail down the flashing it squeezes it way out the edges (kind of like stepping on a ketchup pouch) this way you know the nail holes are sealed. 5) Place the flashing over the tarred area and fasten it with nails (or screws?) on the edge of the flashing every 6"-8" A: Correct. You can use screws if you prefer just make sure they are flat head screws similar to a nail, no screws with a hex head. You don't want the heads breaking through the roofing materials making a hole or screws that keep the material from making direct contact to the flashing (no heads). 6) Cut a 3'x3' square of self adhesive roll and cut out a circle to fit snugly around the base of the walls of the flashing (the part that goes up from the roof). This should lie flat on the flashing when checking to see that it fits. I could even mark where it lies on the flashing with chalk to help to know where to tar in step 7 A: Correct. Always apply tar once you have your cuts made, this way you keep clean and not make a tar mess by installing then removing etc. 7) Apply tar to the foot print of the 3'x3' square including on the base layer and flashing where it will fit and was checked in step 6. A: Correct 8) Remove the peel from the 3'x3' square and place it onto the area that was tarred in step 7 A: Correct, again I have to make it clear that tar will not stand the test of time to adhere old and new materials without using heat in the old and new connections. Tar only works when it's installed on a new material. Does that make sense? Also for the step of installing the 3'x4' rectangle of self adhesive modified bitumen roll in step. Does that just mean take off the peel and lay it on the base layer or do I need to add something to it? A: Yes, It makes perfect sense, just make sure you use heat and scrape off the granules from the existing roof in the work area 4x4’ area of scraping should be enough.
@@AurumRoofing Thanks again. It all makes sense. The system on the roof seems to be IKO SAM adhesive primer on wood, then IKO 1-ply Armourband Self-Adhering Membrane, IKO 1-ply 250 Cap Sheet Membrane (this layer was fully torched on). I didn't do it and it was done in the last 5 years. What do you think the simplest DIY solution would be? I don't have a torch, but could buy a cordless heat gun if that would be sufficient. Man, I was hoping this would be as simple as your video :/
A heat gun is perfect just makesure you scrape of a majority of the granules (not all it impossible but most) and adhere a bit at a time. Sorry, but modified bitumen is a bit more complicated. But I'm here feel free to call or FaceTime, I can guide you through this.
Hey Jose. Quick question. Based on our conversation, I decided to hire a professional but wanted to ask your advice. My roof is about 10 degrees sloped. Do you see any issue with using the velux sun tunnel that is for slopes roofs? I know technically they say to use the one that is for flat roofs that I'd have to frame into an elevated box on the roof, but this will be much more pricey. Will 4 degrees really make a difference in your opinion?
@@AurumRoofing Cool. Just to clarify, velux suggests for under 14 degrees, use the tunnel with the curb mount, the TCR (www.homedepot.com/p/VELUX-14-in-Sun-Tunnel-Tubular-Skylight-Curb-Mount-with-Rigid-Tunnel-TCR-014-0000US/205614065). So they don't include the flashing with the TCR (I think I'm supposed to flash up to the curb of the unit). The typical unit, the one you installed in the video, comes with the flashing installed no? I am not a roofer but just trust your advice over a random local roofer, so wanted to make sure we're (actually mainly, I'm) clear :)
Hi Norbert, great question! These sun tunnels are not designed for tile roofs, but you could modify them to work for tile roofs, because they come with metal flashings and metal does not bend easily to fit the curves that the tiles have you could use lead to replace metal. A 3ft x 3ft sheet of lead could be used, lead flexs with the tile curves insuring you a proper mount, seal the sun tunnels metal flashing to the lead than use the same install concept as in this video and there you go that should work. We do recommend you look for a sun tunnel designed for tile roofs because they come with prefabricated lead rather than you having to depend on your seal. If you do decide to use this method I would recommend you use a polyurethane seal connecting the lead to the metal. Hope this helps you with your question.
Hi Tom, thank you for your comment. Yes, it's very possible. Although I wouldn't recommend you using asphalt shingles for such a low pitch. Anything under a 3/12 pitch you have to use a roll roofing material such as modified bituman(preferably the self adhesive type) or TPO ect...the problem with roofs this flat is that water doesn't wash off as fast as a pitched roof does and when water is slow to run off it tends to try to back up that's why a flat Roofing material is recommended. If you live here on the central Texas area and are thinking of doing this, begin that this isn't a common project we wouldn't mind doing this for you at no cost as long were allowed to record a how to video on this project. Let us know.
@@AurumRoofing Thanks for the offer but I'm in PA. So there is no issue with the velux sun tunnel on a 2:12 roof but with the roofing material ? Just just wondering why velux requires a min of 3/12
I'm sure it's only because of the way it's angled, it's made to be used for asphalt shingles/pitched roofs not for flat roofs. But like I said it's not common but it is possible. If you don't feel comfortable doing this I would highly recommend you hire a professional roofer.
No problem. We are always here for any help or roofing questions you may have. Fyi, Check out our channel and don't forget to Subscribe because we have some more roofing How-to videos available.
@WorldWonders-Thank you for the comment, The light on both are about the same, the difference between the two is that the rigid tube has no flex which limits your desired locations ex.if there is a obstical in your attic such as a A.C duct, pipe, 2x4, the ridge tube won't budge the flex tube on the other hand does it lets you go around things like that. Keep in mind the light does weakin the more you curve the tube. I recommend you stick with this type, specially if you have to have a Sun Tunnel in a certain area. One more thing to keep on mind is that throughout the years you will start seeing dirt,dust, even dead bugs and the stronger the light gets the more things will begin to appear which is fine, when you decide to clean it, a flex tube allows you to do so very easily as for a tube sometimes you have to detach the entire system. Hope this helps.
@@AurumRoofing right.. you are aware that rubber gaskets break down in heat and sunlight, correct? I don't think you're very smart. My 4 year old roof has a leak becuase of roofers like you who think you're more intelligent than the engineers who created and develop the products you use. That flashing will be leaking in 5-10 years. I guarantee it. Rubber gaskets don't last in direct sunlight.
@@AurumRoofing . Heads up ... The guy is right , they will leak. We chased a leak for 4 months, replaced flashing , resealed glazing butt joints, blamed this , thought that... when we sealed the heads of the exact same screws you are using ( same ones we use ) the leak stopped . That was about 14 years ago, have never trusted the washer since.
It's possible. Yes, it would not hurt to seal these screws. For over 20 years we've been using these screws and have never had a problem. It's very important to makesure these screws are driven as straight as possible.
what a time saver! OMG. Thank you very much. The fact that I cut out all the roof panels and tested it to fit, long before a cut my hole was the part that made so much sense. I installed my 10” Solar tube with no problems. Thank you again..👍 on your video
No problem at all! Glad we could help.
I worked as a Roofer for several years and he had me at "real Roofers don't need tar sealant." Excellent video.
Don’t forget to check for missed nails! This is the first Velux install that have the flexible tubing instead of rigid reflective tunnel. I think this would best suit my needs.
This was a perfect video....Followed you steps and installed the sun tunnel with no issues. Thanks tor the great tutorial.
You are very welcome!
This is a great video, thank you. Not trying to steal your thunder and I hope others will be glad they learned something new: I watched this video for a sun tunnel install and learned a trick I'd never even seen done in 20+ years of trades work. Plunge cutting with the sawzall, no need to cut a starter hole. Go to ~3:20 to see the plunge cut.
20 years and you call a skill saw a sawzall? And you've never seen a plunge cut? Hmm
I recommend ice&water instead of that peace of three tab under the flashing. Remember water is sneaky and will look for a way in 😁
Awesome!! Thx.
Parabéns ótima explicação
Obrigado :)
Do you leave the screws exposed like that? I thought usually you have to cover them with sealant. Great video!
Thank you
You're welcome!
Sealant used: Plastic Roof Cement (Roofers Choice)
btw, in roofing does it ever make sense to use butyl, silicone, or poly?
For different roofing systems there are different preferences in sealant. In this case (asphalt roofs) roof cement is my preference.
Excellent video! Now make one for replacing the flashing and dome when reroofing a house.
Can they be replaced without disturbing the rest of the tube?
As long as they're the exact same diameter, I don't see why you can't replace the flashing and dome.
@@AurumRoofing
Okay! Thank you for the prompt reply.
Thanks for this video. When you do your "starter" for the side flashing which way should the tabs be facing?
Do you have a preferred roof sealant?
Thanks again
Hi Jay. The starter can face either side. The purpose for a starter shingle is to further extend the flashing (flashing extender). For this type of project we prefer basic tar based sealant.
Hope this helps sorry for the delayed response.
@@AurumRoofing no worries... Thanks for the info!
I'm preparing to do this step for the 14'' vex Sun Tunnel. The velux instructions say to have the roof underlayment go over the flashing:
step #12: "overlap the top of the flange with underlayment to allow for proper drainage." -velux manual
Can anyone elaborate on this or instruct? Should a fresh piece of underlayment go over the flange, or should the flange be slid under the underlayment already there carefully, or should it go on top of the underlayment as seen in this video?
We are having our old roof replaced this spring. Will have 2 14” sun tunnels installed. Since it will be installed during the new roof install, is there another way that it should be done? TIA
No, it's actually a lot easier to install these during a roof replacement. I would say that because of the vibrations (hammers, nail guns) it wouldn't be a idea to have your roofing company clean the inside lens before leaving because it is common to knock small particles into the lens making them extremely visible from the inside.
Hi. Hopefully you still read these comments... My roof is about 15 degrees but us roofed using roll roofing (GAF Liberty, with roll being 3.2 ft wide). Not sure how to install the tunnel using this kind of roofing material. It seems the same rules don't apply as in your video since the lower half of the flashing needs to be exposed. Help!
It might be best for you to hire a professional but this is something you can do as long as you are very careful. These lower pitches you really have to know what your doing. To simplify this, what you need to do is first install a 3x4' rectangle of self adhesive roll modified bitumen over your self adhesive base roll (4 ft length being horizontal) and install it centered over the hole. Once installed and adhered, then place your flashing above the 3x4' rectangle over the hole and use a chaulk and outline the outside boarder perimeter flashing. Remove the flashing and use a tar sealant ( 1 bucket should be enough), to seal from the outside edge of the hole up to the chalk outline. Once tard and sealed, re-install the flashing back over the area (centered over the hole and covering the tar), nail down the flashing ( make sure you nail 1 nail per every 6 to 8 inches around the entire perimeter of the flashing), as far away from the flashing walls as possible. Finally, cut a 3x3' sq of self adhesive modified bitumen and cut out a centered perfect circle just enough to fit snug around the walls of the dome (don't curl it up). Make sure it fits before pealing. Remove the peel and generously re-apply tar directly above the flashing covering the full metal flashing. Then, peal back the 3x3 sq and install directly above the dome covering the entire flashing.
The most important part of this project is to have your flashing sandwiched between the 3x4 rectangle and the 3x3'sq. Hope this helps, please feel free to contact with any further questions or concerns. 512-284-5239 ask for Jose
@@AurumRoofing Thanks so much! I'd like to try it myself (for better or worse) since if the first one works, I'd like to install a few more in my house. So to be clear, here's what I'm picturing the steps to be
1) Cut hole in roof for the sun tunnel
2) Install a 3'x4' rectangle of self adhesive roll horizontally centered over the hole on top of the base layer (the layer that is already installed and I cut through in step 1). Do I also cut a hole in the 3'x4' piece for the sun tunnel before I install it or after?
3) Trace the outer edge of the flashing
4) Tar seal the 3'x4' rectangle are between the hole and the tracing of the outer edge of the flashing from step 3
5) Place the flashing over the tarred area and fasten with nails (or screws?) on the edge of the flashing every 6"-8"
6) Cut a 3'x3' square of self adhesive roll and cut out a circle to fit snugly around the base of the walls of the flashing (the part that goes up from the roof). This should lie flat on the flashing when checking to see that it fits. I could even mark where it lies on the flashing with chalk to help to know where to tar in step 7
7) Apply tar to the foot print of the 3'x3' square including on the base layer and flashing where it will fit and was checked in step 6.
8) Remove the peel from the 3'x3' square and place onto the area that was tarred in step 7
Does that make sense? Also for the step of installing the 3'x4' rectangle of self adhesive modified bitumen roll in step 2, does that just mean take off the peel and lay it on the base layer or do I need to add something to it?
I copied and pasted your questions and answered per question.
Hope this this helps!
1) Cut hole in roof for the sun tunnel
A: Cut the hole 1 inch bigger, that way you have room for error. Ex. if the tunnel is 14” make a 15’’ hole. Only cut the wood 1 inch bigger, not the roofing materials, these need to fit as tight to the walls as possible.
2) Install a 3'x4' rectangle of self adhesive roll horizontally centered over the hole on top of the base layer (the layer that is already installed and I cut through in step 1). Do I also cut a hole in the 3'x4' piece for the sun tunnel before I install it or after?
A: Correct, cut the hole before you install it but dont nail the flashing until after you trace out the border to allow for seal application. My question to you is, Is the base layer covering the whole roof or just the tunnel area? Do you currently have a roofing system on? If so, what type? I ask this because if you’ve got an existing flat roofing system already say torch down, roll roofing, or self adhesive modified rolls. It's going to be very difficult to adhere the old to the new without having to scrape off the existing granules down to bear tar and heating with a heat gun of some sort. If this is the case you will have to reactivate the old tar with very high temperatures to allow the two to connect. If not done this way the new will never be 100% waterproof. Or the alternative reroof the entire section where you want the tunnel installed.
3) Trace the outer edge of the flashing
A: Correct
4) Tar seal the 3'x4' rectangle are between the hole and the tracing of the outer edge of the flashing from step 3
A: Correct. When you apply tar, make sure you apply generously enough to where when you nail down the flashing it squeezes it way out the edges (kind of like stepping on a ketchup pouch) this way you know the nail holes are sealed.
5) Place the flashing over the tarred area and fasten it with nails (or screws?) on the edge of the flashing every 6"-8"
A: Correct. You can use screws if you prefer just make sure they are flat head screws similar to a nail, no screws with a hex head. You don't want the heads breaking through the roofing materials making a hole or screws that keep the material from making direct contact to the flashing (no heads).
6) Cut a 3'x3' square of self adhesive roll and cut out a circle to fit snugly around the base of the walls of the flashing (the part that goes up from the roof). This should lie flat on the flashing when checking to see that it fits. I could even mark where it lies on the flashing with chalk to help to know where to tar in step 7
A: Correct. Always apply tar once you have your cuts made, this way you keep clean and not make a tar mess by installing then removing etc.
7) Apply tar to the foot print of the 3'x3' square including on the base layer and flashing where it will fit and was checked in step 6.
A: Correct
8) Remove the peel from the 3'x3' square and place it onto the area that was tarred in step 7
A: Correct, again I have to make it clear that tar will not stand the test of time to adhere old and new materials without using heat in the old and new connections. Tar only works when it's installed on a new material.
Does that make sense? Also for the step of installing the 3'x4' rectangle of self adhesive modified bitumen roll in step. Does that just mean take off the peel and lay it on the base layer or do I need to add something to it?
A: Yes, It makes perfect sense, just make sure you use heat and scrape off the granules from the existing roof in the work area 4x4’ area of scraping should be enough.
@@AurumRoofing Thanks again. It all makes sense. The system on the roof seems to be IKO SAM adhesive primer on wood, then IKO 1-ply Armourband Self-Adhering Membrane, IKO 1-ply 250 Cap Sheet Membrane (this layer was fully torched on). I didn't do it and it was done in the last 5 years. What do you think the simplest DIY solution would be? I don't have a torch, but could buy a cordless heat gun if that would be sufficient. Man, I was hoping this would be as simple as your video :/
A heat gun is perfect just makesure you scrape of a majority of the granules (not all it impossible but most) and adhere a bit at a time.
Sorry, but modified bitumen is a bit more complicated. But I'm here feel free to call or FaceTime, I can guide you through this.
Hey Jose. Quick question. Based on our conversation, I decided to hire a professional but wanted to ask your advice. My roof is about 10 degrees sloped. Do you see any issue with using the velux sun tunnel that is for slopes roofs? I know technically they say to use the one that is for flat roofs that I'd have to frame into an elevated box on the roof, but this will be much more pricey. Will 4 degrees really make a difference in your opinion?
No sir. This will not be a problem. Light is light it will still come through. The flashings are both the same.
Nice to hear from you!
@@AurumRoofing Cool. Just to clarify, velux suggests for under 14 degrees, use the tunnel with the curb mount, the TCR (www.homedepot.com/p/VELUX-14-in-Sun-Tunnel-Tubular-Skylight-Curb-Mount-with-Rigid-Tunnel-TCR-014-0000US/205614065). So they don't include the flashing with the TCR (I think I'm supposed to flash up to the curb of the unit). The typical unit, the one you installed in the video, comes with the flashing installed no? I am not a roofer but just trust your advice over a random local roofer, so wanted to make sure we're (actually mainly, I'm) clear :)
Yes, the flashing comes built in, no need to do anything else but install.
@@AurumRoofing Thanks. I figured 4 degrees outside the recommendation should be okay but wasn't sure. Much appreciated! Thanks again!
U forget apply silicone on screws
Hi. How do you do it if you have roof tiles ? Thx
Hi Norbert, great question! These sun tunnels are not designed for tile roofs, but you could modify them to work for tile roofs, because they come with metal flashings and metal does not bend easily to fit the curves that the tiles have you could use lead to replace metal. A 3ft x 3ft sheet of lead could be used, lead flexs with the tile curves insuring you a proper mount, seal the sun tunnels metal flashing to the lead than use the same install concept as in this video and there you go that should work. We do recommend you look for a sun tunnel designed for tile roofs because they come with prefabricated lead rather than you having to depend on your seal. If you do decide to use this method I would recommend you use a polyurethane seal connecting the lead to the metal. Hope this helps you with your question.
have you ever installed a sun tunnel on a 2:12 pitch with the
pitched flashing
Hi Tom, thank you for your comment. Yes, it's very possible. Although I wouldn't recommend you using asphalt shingles for such a low pitch. Anything under a 3/12 pitch you have to use a roll roofing material such as modified bituman(preferably the self adhesive type) or TPO ect...the problem with roofs this flat is that water doesn't wash off as fast as a pitched roof does and when water is slow to run off it tends to try to back up that's why a flat Roofing material is recommended. If you live here on the central Texas area and are thinking of doing this, begin that this isn't a common project we wouldn't mind doing this for you at no cost as long were allowed to record a how to video on this project. Let us know.
@@AurumRoofing Thanks for the offer but I'm in PA. So there is no issue with the velux sun tunnel on a 2:12 roof but with the roofing material ? Just just wondering why velux requires a min of 3/12
I'm sure it's only because of the way it's angled, it's made to be used for asphalt shingles/pitched roofs not for flat roofs. But like I said it's not common but it is possible. If you don't feel comfortable doing this I would highly recommend you hire a professional roofer.
@@AurumRoofing thanks for your help I much appreciate it!
No problem. We are always here for any help or roofing questions you may have. Fyi, Check out our channel and don't forget to Subscribe because we have some more roofing How-to videos available.
Thanks for the video! Would you mind do a video of the same project with a rigid tube? I heard its better for light reflection.
@WorldWonders-Thank you for the comment, The light on both are about the same, the difference between the two is that the rigid tube has no flex which limits your desired locations ex.if there is a obstical in your attic such as a A.C duct, pipe, 2x4, the ridge tube won't budge the flex tube on the other hand does it lets you go around things like that. Keep in mind the light does weakin the more you curve the tube. I recommend you stick with this type, specially if you have to have a Sun Tunnel in a certain area. One more thing to keep on mind is that throughout the years you will start seeing dirt,dust, even dead bugs and the stronger the light gets the more things will begin to appear which is fine, when you decide to clean it, a flex tube allows you to do so very easily as for a tube sometimes you have to detach the entire system. Hope this helps.
@@AurumRoofing thank you for quick reply
So your just not going to seal the screws, eh??
No, metal screws with a rubber gasket do not need to be sealed that's what the gasket is for.
@@AurumRoofing right.. you are aware that rubber gaskets break down in heat and sunlight, correct? I don't think you're very smart. My 4 year old roof has a leak becuase of roofers like you who think you're more intelligent than the engineers who created and develop the products you use.
That flashing will be leaking in 5-10 years. I guarantee it. Rubber gaskets don't last in direct sunlight.
@@sargvsu Impugning the man's intelligence does nothing to support your opinion . It only makes you a jerk and therefore less persuasive.
@@AurumRoofing . Heads up ... The guy is right , they will leak. We chased a leak for 4 months, replaced flashing , resealed glazing butt joints, blamed this , thought that...
when we sealed the heads of the exact same screws you are using ( same ones we use ) the leak stopped . That was about 14 years ago, have never trusted the washer since.
It's possible. Yes, it would not hurt to seal these screws. For over 20 years we've been using these screws and have never had a problem. It's very important to makesure these screws are driven as straight as possible.