Antifouling, new rubbing strips and boat show
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 พ.ค. 2019
- In this video I antifoul the hull of the steel trawler then Arn and I install the new timber rubbing strips on the sponsons. After that I duck up to the Sanctuary Cove boat show in Queensland to take a quick look around.
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I have been trying to figure out what it is about your videos that is so appealing...and have concluded that it's the way that you speak to us, like we are there with you. You have figured out how to put the "real"into reality TV. 30 years ago I lived on an 8 meter Prowler Command Bridge, on the other side of the planet in Toronto, Canada for 8 years, but not until your videos, 30 years later, have I started to miss it, and want to live it all over again. Cheers to you for what you are giving the thousands like me that literally can't wait for your next upload.
Thanks mate. Glad you've been enjoying the vids. I guess I talk to the camera like you guys are there because it makes me feel less lonely when I'm out there working by myself. We both win. :)
The timber rubbing strips looks amazing, the bottom half of the boat is looking like a boat again.
Can't wait to see the rudder and prop in again!
honestly one of the best youtube channels, straight to the point, awesome info, and just a generally affable guy spending his time with us. as soon as i figure out a way to buy this guy a coffee, tea beer, whatever i will support this channel, i would posit that viewers of this channel may enjoy the "tips from a shipwright" channel, also stew may benefit from some of his steaming videos where he uses bags instead of pvc tubes to slowly pull in the wood with clamps, ratchet straps etc.. I never comment but his last video about the rover and the tasteful way in which he acknowledged the way we helped him, made this one of the most real youtube channels, cheers from the pacific northwest! and consider visiting up here on your route 66 tour!
Thanks Rick, I do enjoy the Tips from a Shipwright videos. :)
The boat with wheels was just nuts.....😁
Thanks for the video. 👍
idk why i enjoy this series so much, i am far from into boats. I think the in depth restoration is just really satisfying
Agree. I'm hooked too. A lot has to do with his thought process and options to get the job done the best way possible which makes it very satisfying. Job well done Captain.
So satisfying watching you pull the tape off, glad you left the footage in rather than just tell us
It's my favourite bit! :)
Out of all currently running TH-cam boat building shows, Dangar Marine is #1 because it makes nautical noobs like me feel like I could realistically accomplish this size of a project.
You wanna see something that will blow your mind on boat building channels? Check this out:
th-cam.com/channels/PTQ5iWOL1F0KLY09JmovfQ.html
Looking great! The wood looks like mahogany. I had to smile when you said to keep the wood natural. I believe we think alike. Good or bad..... who cares. Have a beer on me!
Thanks mate. I'm happy for it to go a bit grey, I just don't like the look of the old painted ones.
This is exactly what happened to me. I am in Dubai (working from home) and binging the hell out of this. I love it.
I will be visiting home for the first time in 2 1/2 years this December and will be sure to get back on the water as much as possible. Ill keep an eye out for your masterpiece when im on the water.
im up to episode 25. Makes me want to do something like this.
Great work from a locked out Aussie
Using the jack to bend that board was a nice trick. Well played. The wood rail looks nice against those colors. Whole boat looks great!
Thanks Seth! :)
Retired wooden boat builder here, with your rubbing strip use the old one for the hole locations (as said before here) START at the pointy end, use the old ones for the compound cut at the bow, then it a lot easier to bend them, with "steam" as you work your way aft, the last 1/2 you are only bending in one plane, not 3, as you will be doing at the bow. Easier to start at the bow using the long aft end as a lever to bend around the forward end of the sheer line where it has the most curvature and twist. Then the aft end is a breeze. especially as you don't have full length timber an you have to make a joint, where you might well have to either add another nut welded to the hull, or make a joggled scarf over the last available fastener to be able to bring both timbers together. Just my $0.02 of help for you. Great series any way mate cant wait until she is in the water and Ur happy with her.
Hey mate. I was planning to take them off to oil them anyway so I'll start at the bow when reinstalling and see how it goes. Was planning to use the originals as a template but it was quite awkward due to their permanent curve now.
@@DangarMarine The way to do that is with strips of 1/8 ply (or any other thin crap wood lying around) that are the same width as the inside of the old strakes, about 1.5 meters long, the staple these to the old strakes, overlap & staple these together, then drill through the templates and wallah you have your hole positions. some times one has to go to left field to come back on track, keep up the good work.
Thanks mate. That's a great idea. Next time! :)
Can't wait to see this thing running on the water !!
Good effort , she's coming up great. Cove show looks a lot better that Our Melbourne one .
usual comments danger dude she is at the stage where you are starting to see results and it must be very rewarding now after all that time grinding and welding and filling the stuff that is heart breaking, I am completely hooked and that from a man who lives in the furthest point from the sea in England keep it up mate, im rooting for ya
Thanks Ian! :)
Wow just realised I have watch your whole series on the trawler in a matter of a week. I am far from a boatie but I do enjoy a good resto
Thanks Warren!
Hey mate also I’m not sure how good it would be in marine environments but a product called por15 might work well in your engine bay. It’s great for rust prevention. It’s is a bit on the expensive side but is very tough
We call them rub rails in the states you silly Aussie. (I am kidding you! I really love ya and your channel. You are a life saver!)!
We just don't know how to speak properly here. ;)
When I do that kind of wood work, use a drill bit that is no bigger than about 1/2 of your centre point. That way it gives you a place to start both holes & when you have the beam all counter sunk , you go through each hole with the proper size drill bit for the bolt.
I wish I had found this rebuild series 2 years from now so I could just binge watch the entire thing at once. This business of waiting for new episodes weekly/bi-weekly drives me crazy. Good Stuff!!!
so wait 2 years and binge watch hen.
Talking of bing worthy boat building etc have a look for Acorn to Arrabella www.acorntoarabella.com/project
so true!
fortnightly
@@jossmaxwell00 thats my least favorite...
Painting tip for a crisp line where two colors meet: Paint with color #1, going past the meeting point. Tape. Paint along edge of tape with the same color, #1. Then paint with color #2. That coat of color #1 after taping will seal the edge of the tape so color #2 can't bleed under it. In your case, paint the blue further down, tape, another coat of blue on the bottom edge of the tape, then the black anti-foul.
Hi Stu,
You can get a cylindrical burr/rotary rasp for wood at hardware store to enlarge your rubbing strip holes or washer holes without making them look like a mess, then you can even get what we call a fender washer which has an larger O.D. to fill up the hole, if need be you can grind the outer edge to fit you egg shaped hole. Might have to use two together, here they are a bit thinner than std. washers here in the States.
Keep your wood wet while trying to bend it soak some rags/old towels and wrap in some plastic to keep it from drying out, it will form better. It will take at least 24 hours of steaming to get the wood saturated and heated enough to bend.
After getting it formed you might want to put a thin layer of, sikaflex, pasted onto the back of your rubbing strip so moisture will not sit behind it and the bored holes, you'll have to take it back off again. Water will still come up into from the sea side of the hull, just be caulking the top, depends on how long you want it to last. That looks like what rotted your previous rubbing strip. It is sort of like bedding in a toe rail on a sailboat to make it water resistant to the mounting area imperfections.
Grinding a larger washer could be a good way to go to get the offset hole. I'm heading off to the hardware store today and I'll see what I can find. I have the Sikaflex ready for the final install.
Loving these videos. Always waiting for the next one. I just love your style and attitude towards the way you do things. If I lived down under I would have loved to visit and lend a hand for a couple of weeks.
Thanks mate. Glad you've been enjoying the vids. :)
Knowing you Stu I reckon getting that anti foul finally applied would have called for a several beer celebration with Arn 🍺😎 Looking great mate. Home stretch now 👍
Thanks Mark!
Your boat is starting to look like a boat now with the painting, anti fouling and rubbing strips. The boat show dream segment was very good.
Not sure if you picked a name for the boat yet but I'd like to make a suggestion. " Just Do It " To me, that is the theme for this restoration. You get out there and no matter what...you just do it. Welding? Done! Stripping interior? Done! Designing an electrical system? Done. Doesn't matter. You don't make excuses and put it off until tomorrow....you just do it. Even when you run into a wall and can't get a planned project done..you do something else in it's place just to keep the restoration moving along. Awesome job.
Thanks mate. I'll put one of these stickers on it. :) dangarmarine.com.au/products/bubble-free-stickers
Thanks for the “fix” Stu. Good to see you getting a break from the project. I think you could sell DangarMarine stamped phone “device” stands made from pieces of your old rubbing strips and snow globes of the rust and garnet mixture for Christmas. Think about it, could be HUGE! 😉
Love your product ideas. :)
Looks great stu 👍, black, great choice 👍
A possible solution would have been to make up some bolts with a tip grinded at one end. Insert them in the threaded holes on the hull an press the wood against them, making a mark on the timber..
Yes, did consider something along those lines but it seemed like more work in the end.
Some people watch these videos and will never want to be anywhere near a boat, others will watch these videos and want to buy an old steel boat!
Your neighbours will love the new chopper Dangar aviation - the start of an empire :)
Awwww.... little roo there..... sooo cool!
The things you see when you haven't got a gun.
Had to spring Iroko rub rails on a 35 foot steel boat. Ended up using a Spanish windlass to haul the last few feet into place through the previous bolt hole and then replaced that with a bolt.
I like that idea of camper boat for towing
It was pretty cool. Useful on the water and the road.
Looking good now 👍
You can get a cylinder de glazing tool that uses emery cloth or silicone carbide "sand paper". These are very cheap and are far more effective, especially when you dont need the accuracy that your stone honing tool offers.
Awesome Boat!
She looks fantastic mate
Well done 👍🏻
Thanks mate. :)
The egg beater tool to clean out the shaft housing is cool, I don’t have particular need of one, but want one anyway!
It's a cylinder hone.
What I like to do, when I have to make new parts, and I have the old ones, is I use the old parts as a template for cutting and drilling the new ones. Works perfect every time. Boats looking great man.
Looking good, Stu. When I install fresh rub rails I start at the bow. The most bending occurs as the beam widens and having the long end unattached gives greater leverage to make the bend. Having had boats since 1962 I've done my share of rewiring. A marine electrician friend of mine taught me to always run a complete circuit for each electrical item to and from the circuitbreaker panel. The only common ground should be at that panel. Common grounds tend to fail when located willy-nilly all over the boat. Salt air is a corosion maker so coat your conections with "Monkey Spit", slang for "Gayco", an aircraft and marine contact sealer that looks like an oily bit of grey silicone, or "Monkey Spit". You will use more wire with this system, but electronic failures will be rare and last many years. A white bootstripe above the antifouling will look nice and break up all that dark area. How's the engine comming along? See you on the next one.
Starting at the bow makes so much sense, when I reinstall them after oiling I will do that. Appreciate the tips on the grounds. Engine is going okay. Went to drop off all the parts to the engineers yesterday. The camshaft needs replacing through due to corrosion so I will have to find one.
Two main reasons why ppl go broke me reakons, building a house and fixing bloody boats! Ive only just finished my jetboat last week, now onto number 2! Figlass viscount. Mr altex will love me
Good luck with number 2!
I know nothing about boats but I have enjoyed all your videos since the first one.
So for the holes I would drill what we call the spade bit (and you call speed bore) from the outside to the required depth, then drill a small (say 3mm) hole from the same side right through. The spade bit spur will then locate nicely in the 3mm hole from the back side and centre the spade bit without wobbling. Drill to the depth you need, then follow up with the bolt clearance drill from the outside. Spade bits with nothing to locate the centre spur can make a hell of a mess!
Good job 👍 pro
Im enjoy always wen I watch your learners video
U r my teacher 👨🏫
Thank u😘
You're welcome mate. :)
Probably too late now but in future, try drilling those holes with a small bit all the way through first, then drill out the sides with the spade bit, and then center drill with the correct sized hole for the shank. Much easier to avoid going out of alignment.
If you buy the black inflatable, along with that black chopper, they'll not only look great together, they'd be perfect for night ops.
I love your thinking. :)
Furiously cranking up the jack. "Can't hear any cracking noises". Way to go Stu. I really look forward to watching this. The boat is slowly getting there.
Really nice update. Thanks.
Who else is annoyed at the people that give Stu a thumbs down? Stu I have learned so much from you. Keep up the great videos with sound information. You are the best.!.
No normal person would take anyone that voted down one of Stu's videos seriously?
Some people are just to ignorant to worry about.
Yet the people who vote down do more good for the channel than the VAST majority (84,000/88,000 total views) of people who do not vote at all. Up or down are the EXACT same positive result for the channel. All that matters on those is the interaction, unless ofc you get all downs. But really, have you ever seen that happen? So the real question is, did you vote at all? and if no then why not?
The boat looks fantastic You doing one helluva job! Can't wait to see it hit the water.
At 8:09 looked like the SPEED DRILL was going to introduce itself to the CROWN JEWELS.
Without the CJ's...you can't have a Royal Vessel!
Careful there, Stu.
Yeah fingers are one thing but not a man's favorite friend, his "trouser dog", be careful dingo!
Another great video, trouble is we wish our lives away craving the next one, Really great job and coming along nicely, What an inspiration, keep up the good work! 👍
Thanks Glenn. Should get more time to film this week without the boat show visit taking up time.
Stu, you can get plastic bag like material (tube) on a roll. Excellent for steam bending as you can still steam while bending timber into place. Make sure steam can escape somewhere as you can make a dangerous condition otherwise. G,day from Tassie. Cheers Glenn.
Thanks Glenn!
The way you were holding the camera made that dog's legs at the end look huge.
Holy crap, boats are evolving!
Stu, that is looking Sweet. Lovely finish on the underside of the boat.
You're doing a fine job.
Thanks for sharing.
I have a Rocna now days. It is amazing. Best anchor I have ever used.
I've never heard anyone who has one be disappointed with it.
Try using a long ratchet strap around the hull to gradually pull the timber into place. Even if you join a couple together with some rope. Easier and cheaper than getting more allthread and stuffing around with removing it later.
Welcome back mate !
Enjoying the Trawler project, Stu. How about a couple of ratchet straps joined together around the bow section to pull your rubbing strips in? As you said... just wind the strap a bit each day until you get the timber pulled into shape?
Great video as always. Re your electrics. When I was in diesel mechanic trade school and all the years in the industry just make sure you have good grounds. Grounds Grounds Grounds! On boats you don’t want to use a frame/hull grounds to power your electrical equipment due to electrolysis. But you do want to make sure to run good grounds from your engine/generator/battery/solar systems to the frame/hull.
Run a dedicated ground wire back to the ground system for each piece of equipment.
If you find room in the budget I would incorporate a small diesel generator. Just for emergency purposes. You can get a more powerful bilge pump that way just in case and also just not be limited. You may never run it but....
Sounds like excellent advice. :)
It is definitly going uphill now with the rebuilt :D
BTW if you do a rewiring of the electricity, dont forget to put an extra socket or two for the (beer) fridge....... Somehow I always run out of sockets for my appliances.
Yes, you can never have enough spare capacity.
I've been patiently laying in wait, for the "electronics" upload.
@dangarstu you should have some of your cherished viewers enter a lottery, to come and help you. Would make excellent content!
Yeah Stu, I fitted rubbing strakes to a 36ft ex-trawler and we just slowly pushed the wood into position. We started at the front and worked aft! No steaming needed! Eucalyptus hardwood too!
Yes, it seems obvious to me now but starting at the bow is by far the better way to go.
When transferring threaded holes use spotting screws, they look like a setscrew with a sixty degree turned point with a offset angled slot for a screw driver. Screw them in until the point is protruding enough to produce a witness mark after transfer. The transfer process requires a hammer or mallet. In your case it may take several goes of transferring and drilling to complete the full length of timber. This method is used in a lot of different trades. I hope this helps. Cheers
More good progress, Stu!
Agree with a previous comment about it being easier to start at the bow of the boat. That gives you the most leverage to flex the timberwhere the curve is the greatest. Also, it's easier to splice the 2nd piece where it's relatively straight toward the back end of the boat.
But you are doing just fine without my 2 cents. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Tony, yes, it seems obvious now someone mentioned it. :) Hope to catch in September when heading to Chesapeake Bay!
To bend the rubbing strips just boil a large pot of water and soak some towels, then wrap the hot towels on the strip for a few minutes......this will allow the wood fibers to expand and you can bend the strip.
loving the series you're doing a great job
Thanks mate. :)
Definitely need to trade that green machine in on that race boat 🤙🤙
Ha yes I think you should get the Helicopter for your commute to work or the offshore powerboat for a quicker commute! Always a great video!!!
Hard to carry a Detroit diesel in though.
I like that you're leaving the natural wood.
Getting there....nice.
Another great video,thanks
Looking good
Nice work!
Good stuff! I would have used the old rubbing strip for the hole locations and also to clamp it to start to shape it. But I’m also sitting on my ass watching you work on your boat. 👍
I liked the idea about of clamping a thing piece of timber to the old ones and making a template that could be laid flat on the new timber.
Best series on TH-cam - just got my Dangar Marine T-shirt yesterday. Impressed with the fast shipping.
Thanks mate! :)
This was really enjoyable to watch this morning on memorial day here in California if you’ve ever heard of this place before. Thank you for such a great video i loved it!
Stu, my only suggestion for the electrics would use a compressed fibre material rather than timber or fibre glass. Compressed fibre will not absorb moisture . You can get some serious scrap length stuff from a kitchen maker as they use the fibre board as packing between bench top /false granite sheets . Watch out for wiring plans and ideas from the day of incandescent lighting schemes too, Go 100% LED and your house battery can be a lot smaller. AGMs would probably be the way for your use, Lithiums are just fantastic but their major advantage is something you are really not worried about - weight. Lithiums cost a bit more to buy but their charge /discharge cycle life and depth are fantastic, mqking their long term cost per cycle cheaper than AGMs.
Good point about checking the vintage or ideas for boat wiring. I've got a big sheet of polyboard I'm going to be using for mounting all the electrics, just welded the mounting brackets on yesterday. I've also got some new house batteries waiting in the wings that I'm really looking forward to getting fitted. :)
Binge watching now and it is Awesome! I wish you all the best Stu!
Another great video Stu. Shes looking like one sharp vessel with that awesome paint job.
If you ever want to clean out tube or bores use the sv seeker method of a long rod and sandpaper
Keep up the great work mate
Thanks mate. Yes, I have used that method before for cleaning the tilt tube on outboard, can work really well.
I had to post my post in here ;) here again:
A new invention of Rik Breur is the Marine Antifouling fibre wrap.
Thx for the trawler vids, I really enjoyed it!
Ive been waiting for my dangar marine vid fix 👍👍
Hey I'm a sparky, my advice, people who tell you it's wrong probably don't know enough to know it's better than their idea. I've seen your electrical work, not what I would do, but definitely good enough to have as many pro's as con's to how I would do it, and I would end up doing it different every time anyway.
Hi, not a new viewer here but my first comment.
Been a while since I started to follow you but every week things do take a fun turn, so carry on.
Don't take it as the Steel Machine being boring haha, my next boat will be metal and steel is gonna be considered.
Had the boat bacteria since birth and always on the water any way I can, any chance I get!
The trawler (Steel Machine, yes you can use it.) is coming together and will be the pride of your fleet so carry on.
Cheers from Iceland, let me know if you ever are in the neighbourhood!
Thanks Danni. I'd love to visit Iceland one day. It sounds like an amazing country. Great geography and architecture, progressive politics and an amazing national football team too! :)
Hey, might I suggest white as the color for the whole engine compartment, if you ever have to see in there to work, white will reflect well so you can see to work using the reflected light.
Yes, I will be keeping it light for sure.
Miles from where you started, all that work is starting to come together!
Looks like a right proper job you're doing with your boat, keep up the good work ! Best wishes !
The timber looks real nice. Oil is a excellent idea
Use a reversible drill to clean up existing threads. Just do a lot of backing out and plenty of oil...
I do a fair bit of 12v electrics on my 4x4 and camper, one thing i say is do a decent solar set up. Bit of room on your cab roof for a panel! It will make batteries last for ever!
She's shaping up....looking good.
Can’t wait until your hard work pays off and she’s in the water. 👍🏻
Looking good.
Thanks 👍
Only comment was to start the wood at the front where the bend is greatest. Then worm it back to a straight section for the joint. You may have to go back and remove the rear pieces and start at the front. Steaming will help but the wood will only bend so much. Good luck.
That’s a great tip and makes a lot of sense. Could easily take it off, oil it and then reinstall starting at the bow.
It would also be useful to Sikaflex all along the mating surface of the timber (not just along the top edge) to keep water out completely. That's what we used to do when we replaced them at Northshore Yachts many moons ago and will greatly reduce the likelihood of corrosion setting in behind the timber in years to come.
I really enjoy your updates, Can't wait to see the Engine Go in
Me either!
I love watching this channel. I don't even own a boat lol.
Same here.
U.A.T. That's the Beauty of You Tube.
Hope to one day. Not sure whether to go for a trawler or yacht. Maybe over the years I'll have a crack at both. Can't hurt to look though plus learning heaps and enjoying the great work that Stu does...
The hull is looking very nice and so much different than at haul out. Nice work.
I love this series. I want to maybe have a boat someday. Probably saved me a lot of money and hassle/danger - both in seeing how to do what is needed. And - I say this with the greatest respect - I think I'll make a NEW boat versus buying an old one if I want to 'save' money... You've put in enough effort you could have gotten a kit and welded it together... Again, utmost respect.
I think the next boat I do I will consider making from scratch, would be an interesting project.
Good video as always Stu. When you start the electrics, remember it's easier to run a spare extra wire when you initially start rather than having to add one part way thru. If a circuit calls for 14 ga, go 12ga, heat shrink with epoxy is your friend :-) .........Mike
I like the boat show views. There is some difference between your boat show and ours here in the US of A. You seem to have more inventive and useful new stuff where as our shows are more about bling and luxury yachts.
Interesting to hear.