Great video - some of the other comments are a little harsh - yes, there are steps omitted, but this is a concise and clear instructional to the main steps. Good stuff
Looking at the car it's only done a few thousand miles or so or has been cleaned up. Now try it with a 13 year old version where everything is rusted solid
Thank you for your comment! Unfortunately, the complexity of the replacement is individual for each car. It all depends on the technical condition of the parts. Our videos are only informative and that to save time, we have loosened the knots in advance. Best regards, Autodoc team.
incorrect. Copper anti-seize (mounting paste) is unfit and can even be dangerous due to the galvanic potential. The science: copper is more 'noble' than iron so it attracts iron atoms leading to pitting and accelerated rusting. You should just use specialized brake grease (high solid content) or compounds based on a metal with a higher anodic potential like aluminium, zinc or magnesium
@EZ-D-FIANT I'm an engineer with a double bachelor in material science and mechanical engineering. I have handled samples of fasteners (bolts, screws etc) who were corroded (rusted) excessively due to the accelerating effects of higher galvanic potential solid in the anti-seize such as copper, nickel or graphite. Fun fact: during times long gone, doctors believed that diseases were influenced by an imbalance in the humors blood, yellow bile, black bile, and phlegm. If a person was sick they usually considered there was too much of one and they drained some of it, most often blood. George Washington was most likely killed by one of his doctors when he fell ill, made worse by the doc's bloodletting. Moral of this little history lesson: just because you were taught one way for a long time, it doesn't mean that the way was correct. Under the sum of both education, physical proof and experience, I can confidently consider that copper is not fit for brake work. Stick to ceramic antiseize.
Thank you for your feedback! Unfortunately, we do not have the App in the Albanian language. You can use an English version of the website, or contact our Customer Support Team and we will be happy to assist you in choosing compatible spare parts for your car. Best regards, Autodoc team.
@@autodocuk I'm not asking about app to be in Albanian language , i know English well . I mean i can't download app in Albania , when i go to play store it says it's not available in your region , i would like to have the app in my phone . If you can do anything about that thanks .
@@BigBadjohn0x0 No you don't. just gently lever the piston back and the fluid will be pushed into the reservoir. if the caliper is seized then it needs replacing, but that's beyond the scope of this video
Old Disc off and new one on, no cleaning off loose rust or even copper slip ....mmmmm. No cleaning of any other parts before reinstall. If your reading this watch several other videos before attempting cos this is a botch job
Thank you for the feedback! This video is considered to be an informative one, it is not a maintenance guide. So this video tutorial only shows the sequence of replacing the shock absorber, without specifying all technical points. Best regards, Autodoc.
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. We do not have a garage.This video is considered to be an informative one.Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc
Sehr oberflächlich!! Zahlreiche Schritte und zu überpüfende Fakten wurden nicht angezeigt. Dies ist ca. 50% der kompletten Arbeit... No comment.... Sad....
![How to change front brake pads / front brake pad set on RENAULT CLIO 2 (C65) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5rExSjOJNRA/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to change front brake discs on RENAULT CLIO 3 [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/n.gif)
I'm so grateful for this video ! I'm just gonna replace my brake pads tomorrow, so Thank you very much !
Thank you for the feedback! We are glad that our tutorial was useful for you. Best regards, Autodoc.
Great video - some of the other comments are a little harsh - yes, there are steps omitted, but this is a concise and clear instructional to the main steps. Good stuff
Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
Looking at the car it's only done a few thousand miles or so or has been cleaned up. Now try it with a 13 year old version where everything is rusted solid
Thank you for your comment!
Unfortunately, the complexity of the replacement is individual for each car.
It all depends on the technical condition of the parts.
Our videos are only informative and that to save time, we have loosened the knots in advance.
Best regards,
Autodoc team.
Exactly that one thing second thing he forgot to clean disc with brake cleaner 😂
They gonna be squeaky....😂
Who doesn't clean the contact points, use no copper and doesnt grease pins, doc does...
what about if the piston comes out he makes that look so easy
you shouldn't push on the brake pedal while changing the brake disks :D I mean, why should there be pressure in the system? Or was this a joke? :D
looked easy and you made it easy nice one
Thank you for the feedback! It’s great to know that our video was useful! Follow our upcoming updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
also it may of been advisable to copper grease the back of the pads.
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
3:25 The hub should be cleaned well and a copper mounting paste should be applied. Otherwise, vibration will occur in a short time.
Thank you for your feedback!
You are absolutely right, in the new videos we have already fixed this error.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team!
incorrect. Copper anti-seize (mounting paste) is unfit and can even be dangerous due to the galvanic potential. The science: copper is more 'noble' than iron so it attracts iron atoms leading to pitting and accelerated rusting. You should just use specialized brake grease (high solid content) or compounds based on a metal with a higher anodic potential like aluminium, zinc or magnesium
@@victorunbea8451are you even a mechanic cos we're all taught to use copper there and silicon on pins....
@EZ-D-FIANT I'm an engineer with a double bachelor in material science and mechanical engineering.
I have handled samples of fasteners (bolts, screws etc) who were corroded (rusted) excessively due to the accelerating effects of higher galvanic potential solid in the anti-seize such as copper, nickel or graphite.
Fun fact: during times long gone, doctors believed that diseases were influenced by an imbalance in the humors blood, yellow bile, black bile, and phlegm. If a person was sick they usually considered there was too much of one and they drained some of it, most often blood. George Washington was most likely killed by one of his doctors when he fell ill, made worse by the doc's bloodletting. Moral of this little history lesson: just because you were taught one way for a long time, it doesn't mean that the way was correct.
Under the sum of both education, physical proof and experience, I can confidently consider that copper is not fit for brake work. Stick to ceramic antiseize.
Yes very good and useful video, thanks autodoc
Thank you for the feedback!
We are glad you find our video interesting and informative.
Stay tuned.
Best regards, Autodoc.
Brilliant video, well done. John (Wales UK)
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
What was the torque value for tightening the bolts of the caliper bracket? Thank you!
Thank you for your reply!
The torque of the brake caliper bolts is approximately 60 Nm . Best regards, Autodoc.
Thank you for your valuable feedback! Best regards, Autodoc.
No torque spec tightening, no cleaning brake disk
Did anyone else notice that the wheel is buckled ?
Why does that pad carrier have no stainless steel clips in it? I thought they all did. Mine does anyway
Thank you for the feedback! What carrier do you mean? Best Regards, Autodoc.
The pad carrier he's attaching at 4:21 . There should be stainless steel anti-rattle clips where the pads slide. GIves a flat non-corrodable surface.
I haven't done much around brakes for many years but do you not have to bleed the system anymore?
Thank you for your feedback! This replacement doesn't involve the hydraulic system, so there is no need to bleed it. Best regards, Autodoc.
Don't you have to wind the piston back?
Thank you for your comment. You are absolutely right, we will definitely take this into account in the following videos.
AUTODOC
Why app is not available in Albania...
Thank you for your feedback!
Unfortunately, we do not have the App in the Albanian language.
You can use an English version of the website, or contact our Customer Support Team
and we will be happy to assist you in choosing compatible spare parts for your car.
Best regards,
Autodoc team.
@@autodocuk I'm not asking about app to be in Albanian language , i know English well . I mean i can't download app in Albania , when i go to play store it says it's not available in your region , i would like to have the app in my phone . If you can do anything about that thanks .
Do you not have to pushback the calliper?
Thank you for the feedback!This video is considered to be an informative one, and it is approximate. Best regards, Autodoc.
no drainage of break fluid first ?
Thank you for your feedback! When replacing brake discs and pads , do not do a drainage of break fluid. Best regards, Autodoc.
@@autodocuk you do if you need to push the caliper piston back surely,what happens if the caliper has seized then??
@@BigBadjohn0x0 No you don't. just gently lever the piston back and the fluid will be pushed into the reservoir. if the caliper is seized then it needs replacing, but that's beyond the scope of this video
Old Disc off and new one on, no cleaning off loose rust or even copper slip ....mmmmm. No cleaning of any other parts before reinstall. If your reading this watch several other videos before attempting cos this is a botch job
He missed A lot of steps out!
Thank you for the feedback! This video is considered to be an informative one, it is not a maintenance guide. So this video tutorial only shows the sequence of replacing the shock absorber, without specifying all technical points. Best regards, Autodoc.
@@autodocuk there is nothing about shock absorbers in this video...
ive been quoted 280 ponds foe this when you have just done it in 8 mins!!! wtf!!! do you have a garage?
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. We do not have a garage.This video is considered to be an informative one.Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc
This says T35. the other video is T40/
You can find more accurate information in the technical documentation for the repair of your car directly.
)
Sehr oberflächlich!! Zahlreiche Schritte und zu überpüfende Fakten wurden nicht angezeigt. Dies ist ca. 50% der kompletten Arbeit... No comment.... Sad....
Vielen Dank für Ihren Kommentar! In unseren neuen Videos haben wir diese Fehler bereits korrigiert und zeigen Ersatz durch alle vorbeugenden Arbeiten.